new slave cylinder leaking....

[John U]

I just replaced the slave last weak and it is leaking like crazy from where the line goes into the slave. I tightened it up really well but it still leaks....I worry if I try to crank it on any tighter I am going to round off the nut! The unit was purchased new from DMCMW.
threads are fine (not cross threaded)
Any ideas on what's wrong?
thanks
John

[r00b]

I'm guessing it's leaking where the adapter goes into the slave. Did you use a new copper washer?

[John U]

copper washer???
there wasn't one on the old slave (unless it fell off during removal which is more than a possibility!)

so no, I did not use a copper washer...anyone know off hand what size?

thanks....this is why I missed dmctalk so much!!!!


John

[DMCMW Dave]

The original is a plastic washer that you car re-use unless you split it. It can be replaced with a copper washer. (Plastic is NLA)

#4 on this picture:

http://www.delorean.com/store/c-384-4-4-1-clutch-hydraulics.aspx

[John U]

reused the plastic washer and got the leak to stop.
Now I have another leak where the bleed nipple threads in....I am using Hervey's bleed extension and have cranked it on TIGHT, but there is still a small leak. Any sort of solution to this one? Will teflon tape work?

thanks again
John

[Mike C.]

Have the bleeder also... had to seal it with teflon. No leaks.

[John U]

Thanks for the help,
teflon tape worked great, no more leaks!

Can't wait to get it all back together....I'm hoping the new clutch line solves my 2nd gear shifting problem....

[sdg3205]

What was the 2nd gear problem?

[John U]

gears would grind sometimes going into 2nd on the upshift and downshift

[sdg3205]

Let me know how it goes.

I occasionally get that going in and out of 3rd.

It's probably a syncro in my case though, my clutch components were all professionally installed in the fall.

[David T]

If you are having problems with 2nd redo all of the external adjustments and change the oil in the transmission. If that doesn't fix it you probably have to replace the roll pin inside the transmission.
David Teitelbaum

[John U]

we will see how the new clutch hydraulics behave...I have already changed the trans fluid...hopefully just some minor adjustments to be made....would hate to pull the trans apart for an 85cent pin!

[uhhair]

How much effort/work is it to replace just the slave cylinder? At my spring tech session Grady noticed that our slave cylinder is slightly leaking. I'd like to replace it but I don't want the car on blocks for awhile as its prime driving season.

[John U]

you have to go into the valley of death which involves removing fuel lines, intake...I think there is a write-up on it in the how to section. My car has been apart for two months but I work slow here and there, and I have been changing everything and cleaning everything while I am in there.
It could be done fairly quickly if you are just changing the slave but there are lots of things that you have to get out of the way to get to it...and then put back together

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?429-How-to-Removing-intake-manifold

John

[David T]

It is possible to change the slave cylinder without removing the fuel mixture unit or the intake manifold. It is all done blindly from underneath. Not easy and maybe not as fast as taking the whole top of the motor apart, but it is possible. You need to be flexible and have a lot of patience.
David Teitelbaum

[Jacko]

You need to be flexible and have a lot of patience.
David TeitelbaumHow true! I've done it from both directions and either way is a chore. I think it's the one single hardest thing to do on a D although I've never changed a TAB on an Automatic which I hear is a bitch.:wrenchin: :fu:

... & I love these new smilies!:biggrin:

[uhhair]

Sounds more like a winter storage project to me than, thanks for the info guys!

[John U]

wow, I couldn't imagine trying it from under the car!!!

[David T]

The worst job on a Delorean (short of taking the whole thing apart and putting it back together) is the A/C box under the dash. This is true for most cars especially with A/C, Air Bags, and all of the wiring in modern cars. The TAB's on an automatic are easy if you know what to do, they aren't bent or frozen in the bushing. Even with all that there is still plenty of room to work compared to working upside down under the dash. After that comes R & R ing the doors which you should never do unless they are damaged in an accident and can't be repaired on the car.
David Teitelbaum

[sdg3205]

The worst job on a Delorean (short of taking the whole thing apart and putting it back together) is the A/C box under the dash.
David Teitelbaum

I fear this. Still deciding how badly I want heat. I figure you can always add a layer. The girlfriend can always bring a blanket (she often does anyway even in my Jeep with working heat). Might just go ahead and repair the A/C, which will definitely put heater core replacement out of the picture for a few years.

[Evildeli]

I've replaced the evaporator twice now. It's not too hard, it's just that there's so much to take out to get to the box. By myself, it took 2 days to get the box out and back in, and I was really taking my time. I could do it again in under a day by myself, if needed (but I don't ever want to again). I would say that if you attempt it, make sure you take pictures of everything you disconnect. Takes the guessing out of, "where does this hose go?".

In comparison I would say replacing the slave cylinder is easier, but make sure that if you disconnect your fuel lines, replace all your copper seals. I learned this the hard way. :blush:

[content22207]

If I'm not mistaken, most EFI PRV conversions totally expose the slave cylinder (slave cylinder can be replaced with the fuel system in place).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[David T]

So, Bill, you are saying to replace the slave cylinder you should do a conversion on the fuel system? I hear that it is also easy to do the slave cylinder if you put a carburetor on, is that true? A lot of extra work to change the slave cylinder, don't you think?
David Teitelbaum

[content22207]

I suspect that for most owners who have jetisoned K-Jet, ease of access is a fringe benefit, not the motivating cause.

Doesn't make any sense to complain about K-Jet access if an owner continues to leave it on his or her car. Kind of like stabbing yourself in the back of the hand with a pencil, complaining that it hurts, then going right back to stabbing....

Bill Robertson
#5939

[John U]

Finally got the car on the road today. Clutch pedal feels very firm and I don't seem to have the grinding problem anymore, although I do feel that my shifting into 2nd has to be very "deliberate" for lack of a better word. Maybe it still needs a little adjustment.
Before, I couldn't downshift to 2nd, or shift from 1st to 2nd at higher rpms without it grinding....can do both now!

Can someone describe the procedure for adjusting the shifter for 2nd gear?...it feels like I really have to pull the shifter quite hard back into 2nd gear.

thanks
John

[DMCMW Dave]

The second gear selector rollpin is probably damaged from the hard shifting. Very common issue usually caused by leaving the original plastic line in place.

There isn't really another adjustment assuming you can hit second at all. It's an internal transmission repair involving taking it completely apart to replace a 50-cent part, assuming the sliding gear teeth are not also damaged.

[John U]

So I should probably just enjoy the shifting without grinding until I need to drop the tranny for whatever reason.

[DMCMW Dave]

So I should probably just enjoy the shifting without grinding until I need to drop the tranny for whatever reason.

Yeah - like when you need a clutch.

[John U]

Just had the car out today. I avoid the grinding by shifting very deliberately and pulling the shifter into second gear, but if I am sloppy about it, it grinds. It is definitely better than before where I almost couldn't shift into second at all without double-clutching, but it looks like I will need the roll pin :(
Is this something I should get a trained tranny shop to do, or could I do it myself?

John

[opethmike]

The nastiest part, imho, of doing a home transmission job is getting the car safely elevated high enough to get the gear box out from under the car.

[John U]

no problem....

[David T]

You do not have to send the transmission out to a shop. It is not all that difficult and you do not need special tools. You can get by with carefully removing the nuts on the final drive seals with a blunt punch and you should have a clutch alignment tool. In a pinch you can disassemble the trans and use the main shaft. A helper is useful.
David Teitelbaum

[John U]

If you are having problems with 2nd redo all of the external adjustments and change the oil in the transmission. If that doesn't fix it you probably have to replace the roll pin inside the transmission.
David Teitelbaum

can you elaborate on how to redo the external adjustments?

thanks
John

[David T]

It's all in the Workshop Manual. Refer to F:07:01-:02. Before adjusting make sure all of the linkage moves easily with no "slop". If you have to, replace any worn rubber bushings, and clean and lubricate rod ends and the pivot bolts. BTW it is a good idea to always keep a spare pivot bolt in the glove box. They tend to break without warning and when they do you are SOL. There are TWO pivot bolts that should be lubricated but only one seems to break. Refer to 4-2-0 in the Parts Manual #17 pn 110183. Every owner with a 5-speed should have a spare. While doing the adjustments check the motor mounts, especially the front, left one. If it is broken you will not be able to properly adjust the linkage. If you still have trouble shifting into 1st and/or second you will have to drop the box, crack it open, and replace the roll pins. At that time you will also probably want to replace the clutch.
David Teitelbaum

[John U]

thanks David

John