21st Century tail light circuit boards

[DMCH James]

Re-designed for the 21st century! New circuit board layout with original and new alternate wiring mode (if your original wiring harness connectors are bad), improved sockets and weather-seal coated - available with INCANDESCENT bulbs, LED bulbs or without any bulbs at all!

29269

Two boards with LED bulbs and LED-compatible flasher - $149.95 (http://store.delorean.com/p-10649-tail-light-circuit-board-pair-led-bulbs-wflasher.aspx)

29270

Two boards with Incandescent bulbs - $84.95 (http://store.delorean.com/p-10648-tail-light-circuit-board-pair-incandescent-bulbs.aspx)

29271

Single board with no bulbs - $59.95 (http://store.delorean.com/p-6917-tail-light-circuit-board-each.aspx) (yes, we really prefer to sell in pairs)

Limited stock in hand now - contact your nearest DMC dealer or shop online - hundreds more coming in during August!

[jawn101]

Awesome!! Any chance the "alternate wiring mode" includes the option to have all three red bulbs go bright for braking?

Looks like a nice product at a good price, with the bulbs all included. Do you have any photos of the LEDs installed and burning? With all the LED options out there I'm curious how these included ones stack up.

[DMCMW Dave]

You will note that there are thru-holes near the connector plating. This is so that in the event that the connector in the car has corroded away, you and easily buy a generic 5-pin pigtail connector pair (aka trailer connector) to solder in place and eliminate that OEM connector. But you don't have to if your OEM connector is good.

PS These were on display by James at DCS - the LEDs are amazing.

[DMCH James]

Awesome!! Any chance the "alternate wiring mode" includes the option to have all three red bulbs go bright for braking?

Looks like a nice product at a good price, with the bulbs all included. Do you have any photos of the LEDs installed and burning? With all the LED options out there I'm curious how these included ones stack up.

I'll put up a side-by-side comparison of incandescent and LED tomorrow.

The "alternate wiring mode" is to accommodate owners whose tail light harness connectors have failed - the little holes in the board near where the standard connector attaches? These are designed to accept wires from a standard (http://www.delcity.net/store/5!Way-Connector-Loop/p_8774) trailer harness. Cut the offending connector off your tail light harness and attach/solder as required.

[DMCMW Dave]

Awesome!! Any chance the "alternate wiring mode" includes the option to have all three red bulbs go bright for braking?
.

That would require the center bulb to be dual filament or some sort of diode/relay arrangement.

[Michael]

Didn't PJ Grady come out with these in 2005 or something?

[jawn101]

Thanks Dave and James - I couldn't make it to DCS so I'd love to see the LEDs in action. It was a good idea to add the ability to use a different wiring connector, nice touch.

[alexwolf1216]

How do these leds compare to the super bright ones recommended previously? I just ordered and installed the flasher relay, and cleaned up my boards but want to make the jump to leds.

[DMCH James]

Didn't PJ Grady come out with these in 2005 or something?

Actually, I think Grady states in his ads that he developed his version in like 1990. Back in the DeLorean One days Ed/Stephen had their own version, as well.

I refer to these as re-designed/21st century mostly due to the alternate wiring mode...


How do these leds compare to the super bright ones recommended previously? I just ordered and installed the flasher relay, and cleaned up my boards but want to make the jump to leds.

I've never bought any SuperBright bulbs, so that's hard for me to say. We have been using this same LED factory for several years and we started testing their LED bulbs for this project in 2012. Once dusk comes tonight I'll post some pics.

[Rich W]

You will note that there are thru-holes near the connector plating. This is so that in the event that the connector in the car has corroded away, you and easily buy a generic 5-pin pigtail connector pair (aka trailer connector) to solder in place and eliminate that OEM connector.

Hey Dave,

Will this be a good location to easily add a trailer connector for DeLoreans with a trailer hitch installed? Just curious.

Thanks,
Rich W.

[DMCMW Dave]

Hey Dave,

Will this be a good location to easily add a trailer connector for DeLoreans with a trailer hitch installed? Just curious.

Thanks,
Rich W.

I would not want to add any load to the OEM connectors. So it's a conditional yes, but I would (at the same time) do the pigtail thing.

[NightFlyer]

How do these leds compare to the super bright ones recommended previously? I just ordered and installed the flasher relay, and cleaned up my boards but want to make the jump to leds.

I'm currently running 1 Cree + 12 side firing SMDs on my car:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaM1OX95228

[MikeWard]

How do these leds compare to the super bright ones recommended previously? I just ordered and installed the flasher relay, and cleaned up my boards but want to make the jump to leds.
When I switched to LED's last year, after consulting Ozzies blog and the great guide he put together, when I was compiling my shopping list on superbrights website, I came across and ultimately went with these 1156 45 smd led bulbs instead for the taillights.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/s-series-bulbs/1156-led-bulb-single-intensity-45-smd-led-tower/526/ Cost difference on the 18 smd vs 45 smd bulbs is negligible.

And also a pair of 1157 45 smd led bulbs for the front indicators: http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/s-series-bulbs/1157-led-bulb-dual-intensity-45-smd-led-tower-/814/

[Kane]

So I already have LEDs on my boards so I could just order the incandescent version and pop those out and pop my LEDs in, right? The boards are the same right? The difference is only if they come with LEDs or not, right?

Just wondering.

[DMCH James]

So I already have LEDs on my boards so I could just order the incandescent version and pop those out and pop my LEDs in, right? The boards are the same right? The difference is only if they come with LEDs or not, right?

Just wondering.

Correct - well, if you order the LED ones they come with a LED-compatible flasher unit.

[Nicholas R]

I'll put up a side-by-side comparison of incandescent and LED tomorrow.

The "alternate wiring mode" is to accommodate owners whose tail light harness connectors have failed - the little holes in the board near where the standard connector attaches? These are designed to accept wires from a standard (http://www.delcity.net/store/5!Way-Connector-Loop/p_8774) trailer harness. Cut the offending connector off your tail light harness and attach/solder as required.

Have you posted this anywhere yet? I'm still looking forward to it as I'm considering these boards.

[Steven]

The new boards looks great! Just bought a set, can't wait to install :)

[refugeefromcalif]

I received my new tail boards, (with LED option), on the 15th. I installed them, (minus the blinkers), a week later.
I checked them all out during/after installation, Headlights on and such and Loved what I saw. I turned the key on to see the backup lights. Nice....
This morning was the first time I was able to see how they did at dawn/dark.
After starting the car, I was Shocked seeing the brake lights running in my mirror? (Reflection on my garage door). I depressed the brake pedal and the lights got brighter. Humph, That's right.
I shut the car off and they shut off. Turned the key to ON and nothing happened. Good. Started it again they were ON?
I've found that if the key is ON, nothing. If I hit Start the Brake lights come on in Tail/marker light(?) mode. They still get brighter when I use the brake. (Like they should).

My question, What the heck is going on? I did another test, If I hit the starter, (Thus activating the outside Brake lights), but don't start the car, I can hear a NEW Buzzing in the engine compartment?

NO, this is a New buzzing I've never heard before. Sounds like it's around the Ballast resistor.?

There was nothing wrong with my old boards. I Upgraded because I figured they might fail me at the worst time. I think I'm re-installing my old boards. (With the LED's)...

George.

[NightFlyer]

There was nothing wrong with my old boards. I Upgraded because I figured they might fail me at the worst time. I think I'm re-installing my old boards. (With the LED's)...

George.

Well, that doesn't sound very promising at all....

Is there anyway that you can make a video of the situation and post it, as trying to the follow the written description of what's going on is somewhat vague/nebulous.

From what I've taken away from your description, this is what's happening:

When the engine's running, and with the headlight switch engaged (in either the parking/running light only or full on illumination positions), the brake lights are on even though the brake switch isn't being activated by a depression of the brake pedal.

But when you do depress the brake pedal, the brake light positions get even brighter.

Is that right?

If so, then yeah, that sounds pretty messed up - there's clearly some bleeding/leakage occurring on the board's traces or some other problem in the design or production process that's causing the problem. While I'd chalk it up to a fluke single product defect, the fact that both your boards are doing the same thing would suggest otherwise.

Hopefully you'll get an official response from the vendor soon.

Best luck :thumbup:

[Michael]

I received my new tail boards, (with LED option), on the 15th. I installed them, (minus the blinkers), a week later.
I checked them all out during/after installation, Headlights on and such and Loved what I saw. I turned the key on to see the backup lights. Nice....
This morning was the first time I was able to see how they did at dawn/dark.
After starting the car, I was Shocked seeing the brake lights running in my mirror? (Reflection on my garage door). I depressed the brake pedal and the lights got brighter. Humph, That's right.
I shut the car off and they shut off. Turned the key to ON and nothing happened. Good. Started it again they were ON?
I've found that if the key is ON, nothing. If I hit Start the Brake lights come on in Tail/marker light(?) mode. They still get brighter when I use the brake. (Like they should).

My question, What the heck is going on? I did another test, If I hit the starter, (Thus activating the outside Brake lights), but don't start the car, I can hear a NEW Buzzing in the engine compartment?

NO, this is a New buzzing I've never heard before. Sounds like it's around the Ballast resistor.?

There was nothing wrong with my old boards. I Upgraded because I figured they might fail me at the worst time. I think I'm re-installing my old boards. (With the LED's)...

George.

http://www.pjgrady.com/product/tail-light-circuit-boards/

If all else fails and you still want improved boards, try ^^. These things have been out for years, make that decades. I have had mine in since I bought my car over 5 years ago with no problems. I'm glad DMCH finally got wise to their boards needing improvement, but they are a bit late to the party.

As far as your boards go, the brake lights may not function anymore unless the ignition is on(probably because of the LED option?). The only way to make sure is have a friend get in the car, command them to brake, light, reverse, turn signal, etc. and view for yourself from outside the car. As long as everything works with the engine/ignition on you should be fine. As far as I know, the ONLY function that works with ignition power off is brake, and your running lights of course with lights on. Turn signals and reverse will not function unless ignition is in the run(#2) position....that's with incadesant bulbs, LED's may be totally different.

[DMCMW Dave]

Just for grins, put standard bulbs in the new boards rather than the LEDs. Then put the LEDs in your old boards. See what happens with those two combinations. I'd also check and clean the contacts right in the connectors. They are often a problem which is why the extra landings in the board were provided to allow you to replace the factory connection entirely.

My guess is that there is nothing wrong with the boards, but the new LEDs are such low current there is a weak (poor) connection, probably a ground, that they will work through but the standard bulbs won't, and you are getting some sneak currents through other bulbs on the circuit.

The boards are pretty simple, and everything is soldered, so there isn't much to go wrong with them.

[NightFlyer]

As far as your boards go, the brake lights may not function anymore unless the ignition is on(probably because of the LED option?). The only way to make sure is have a friend get in the car, command them to brake, light, reverse, turn signal, etc. and view for yourself from outside the car. As long as everything works with the engine/ignition on you should be fine. As far as I know, the ONLY function that works with ignition power off is brake, and your running lights of course with lights on. Turn signals and reverse will not function unless ignition is in the run(#2) position....that's with incadesant bulbs, LED's may be totally different.

Just like George, I'm currently running LEDs in the running light, brake light, and reverse light positions only - the blinkers on both sides are still stock/OEM incandescents.

My boards are stock/OEM.

Brake lights still function normally for me with the ignition key in the off position. They also only ever turn on when the brake light switch is activated by depressing the brake pedal - just as they should.

I've experienced no problems with the LEDs since installing them (except a loss of concour points because I didn't have the time to swap them back to the stock/OEM incandescents before DCS).

[NightFlyer]

My guess is that there is nothing wrong with the boards, but the new LEDs are such low current there is a weak (poor) connection, probably a ground, that they will work through but the standard bulbs won't, and you are getting some sneak currents through other bulbs on the circuit.

My LEDs are 7W/each and I don't have any issues in running them on the stock/OEM boards.

[NightFlyer]

Hmmm... after reading through George's description of the situation again, it sounds like the brake lights are coming on whenever the engine is running, regardless of whether the light switch is activated or not.

It will be interesting to see what switching back to the old boards, but retaining the LEDs does for him.

[DMCMW Dave]

My LEDs are 7W/each and I don't have any issues in running them on the stock/OEM boards.

Mine too. And they work fine along with the others we've installed.

[refugeefromcalif]

Hmmm... after reading through George's description of the situation again, it sounds like the brake lights are coming on whenever the engine is running, regardless of whether the light switch is activated or not.


Yes and No. I guess I didn't explain it right. They are acting like an 1157 single bulb, brake/running light setup.

The brake lights are working when I depress the brake pedal, key On or Off just fine.
They come on as running lights after I bump the starter, (or start the car), and leave the key in the ON position.
The normal middle running light light only comes on with the headlight switch.

I just like the OEM setup. Middle running light, either side of it, brake. If anything, I'd love the middle bulb to also be a brake light.

Thanks for the replies and I'll try getting video and swap boards and bulb combinations after work today.

George

[NightFlyer]

They come on as running lights after I bump the starter, (or start the car), and leave the key in the ON position.

Which shouldn't be happening at all. And this happens regardless of the light switch, correct - in other words, it happens with the light switch on (in either of the two on positions) or off, correct?

So it's as if the starter circuit is triggering such activity, and then they remain on as running lights so long as the ignition is left in the on position (engine running or not).

Looking forward to seeing what the experimentation reveals about the situation.

Best luck :thumbup:

[DMCMW Dave]

They come on as running lights after I bump the starter, (or start the car), and leave the key in the ON position.
The normal middle running light light only comes on with the headlight switch.

I just like the OEM setup. Middle running light, either side of it, brake. If anything, I'd love the middle bulb to also be a brake light.

George

I have no idea how a defect in the board could do that.

I rewired the ones in my personal car so that the center light is normal (i.e. comes on as the running tail light). However when hitting the brakes with the lights off (i.e. in the daytime) it lights up all 3 red bulbs. This took 4 diodes and does make the running light very slightly dimmer due to the voltage drop in the diode. Not really noticeable unless you compare them side by side.

See following photo sequence. Note the side marker lights in the last two pictures.

30317
Tail Lights only

30316
Tail Lights off, brakes on

30315
Tail lights on, brakes on

[refugeefromcalif]

I have no idea how a defect in the board could do that.

I never suspected the boards. I figured it Had to be something unique with my cars wiring.


Which shouldn't be happening at all. And this happens regardless of the light switch, correct - in other words, it happens with the light switch on (in either of the two on positions) or off, correct?

Yep.


So it's as if the starter circuit is triggering such activity, and then they remain on as running lights so long as the ignition is left in the on position (engine running or not).

Looking forward to seeing what the experimentation reveals about the situation.

Best luck :thumbup:

After I got to work this morning, I was thinking of Anything that's been added to the brake light circuit when it hit me. Cruise Control.
When your CC is On And set to a speed, using the brake pedal de-activates it, although it's still On. My CC is ON anytime I start the car. So at lunch I checked a theory.
I found that turning the CC off when the car is running also turns off the running light glitch in my brake lights. Everything back to normal.
Turning CC back On, the lights also go on.

I still need to swap back to my old boards with the LEDs to see if the result is the same. I expect it's the difference with the LEDs that's causing this Weird glitch.
I wish I had a wiring diagram for the CC unit as it's installed in my car. Then again, I'd love to have the Diag. for the Wings-A-Loft system also.

Thanks again for the input guys!

George

[Bitsyncmaster]

Is it just a very dim light on the brake light with the cruse on? The cruse control probably uses a pull up resistor so it's putting some power into the LEDs. You can fix it by putting a resistor over the brake light circuit. I would try a 10 Kohm and reduce that value until the lights don't glow.

[NightFlyer]

Glad that mystery was solved :thumbup:

"The more they overthink the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain."

[refugeefromcalif]

Is it just a very dim light on the brake light with the cruse on? The cruse control probably uses a pull up resistor so it's putting some power into the LEDs.
When the cruse control is ON it's about the same brightness as the middle running light. When CC is turn OFF, (I've had to check this in Full dark), it's Very dim. Just enough to see that it's on.


You can fix it by putting a resistor over the brake light circuit. I would try a 10 Kohm and reduce that value until the lights don't glow.

Where would I add the resistor?
The weird lights are not a problem except, My CC doesn't work at all. I'm guessing that when CC is turned on, it's reading that my brakes are on so it won't activate/set cruse.
No, I still haven't tried all combinations of bulbs and boards yet. (I have checked fuses).

George

[Bitsyncmaster]

Where would I add the resistor?
The weird lights are not a problem except, My CC doesn't work at all. I'm guessing that when CC is turned on, it's reading that my brakes are on so it won't activate/set cruse.
No, I still haven't tried all combinations of bulbs and boards yet. (I have checked fuses).

George

You put a load resistor over the two LED terminals (solder it onto the socket). That way it looks more like an incandescent bulb. Small low power incandescent bulbs look like a 100 ohm resistor but I don't think you need to go that low.