View Full Version : Assorted Helpful Technical Photos

07-31-2014, 09:59 AM
The intention here is to share some photos of various areas or parts on the cars to help owners get familiar with where things are. A picture says 1,000 words, right?

07-31-2014, 09:59 AM
Trailing arm bolts (TABs) shown on a rolling chassis (taken at DMCFL while in Florida on vacation):


07-31-2014, 10:01 AM
Front brake caliper showing anti-rattle pins installed:


Photo credit to Dave S. I believe on this one.

07-31-2014, 10:05 AM
How the wiper delay bracket fits into place under the driver footwell:

This item (along with the buzzer and relays on it): http://store.delorean.com/p-7007-support-plate.aspx


Photo credit to Dave S again... I was standing with him at least when this was taken!

07-31-2014, 10:17 AM
Here are two photos showing the auto trans shift computer cable from underneath when it is 1.) floored and 2.) at idle.


I can't specifically remember, but these probably came from Dave S as well.

07-31-2014, 10:23 AM
A few photos showing the throttle body and "butterfly" valves. Also a shot of new and old deceleration springs that are on each of those butterfly valves.

Mostly this part: http://store.delorean.com/p-6395-butterfly-assy.aspx


07-31-2014, 10:27 AM
Great thread!

I think it should be "stickied" or put into the How-To's.....I'm sure I'll be revisiting it many times.

07-31-2014, 10:54 AM
excellent idea Jonathan.

IMHO, this would be best in the "Resources section"?

Perhaps add the part number to posts so it will pop up in searches, as some things have multiple names?

07-31-2014, 01:35 PM
There have been so many complete restorations in here and I can think of ovr a dozen photos on each of those threads that had valuable information.... And every time I am scanning EACH and every thread to find that photo I once saw.

I am with mouse's idea but creating thread groups as they are separated in the DMCH parts pages.

Catalogueging is the magic word

Mark D
07-31-2014, 02:48 PM
I'm a huge fan of taking photos and have several thousand from my chassis restoration project...some of them I've posted here in various other threads and those are also available in my profile photo albums.

I'm interested to see how this thread will pan out...right now it can be tough to search the board at times and it would be nice to have photos in one go-to place, but I can imagine this thread blowing up to dozens of pages covering a hundred or more individual topics, so some organization would be helpful.

08-01-2014, 07:42 AM
Yea, 100% agree with all of you. Glad it's seen as a decent idea. I wasn't sure when I put the first couple up.

I like the idea of putting it in the Resources section or somewhere else appropriate. And for sure the thought about part numbers or cataloging or by parts manual section. I too struggle with the search function sometimes and especially when you're not looking really for what was written in a certain thread but that one picture you have a vision of and can't for the life of you remember where it was!

Maybe one of the moderators has some thoughts on this and we can come up with a plan before posting too many more? If this was back in my GE life, I'd say we should have a conference call to discuss it, lol!!

08-01-2014, 12:28 PM
Great stuff Jonathan!

I agree with Resources being the best place.
As some of you may remember, Mike posted that the Resources section was being revamped. I had a skeleton roughed out including the links for most of the existing posts and was working on handling duplicate/similar information and refining categorization. Most of this was postes in the Admin Section and was awaiting input/approval when unrelated circumstances prompted me to resign/retire my position and was all there last I looked...I think it would be a good start, rough as it is... ;-) Have fun!

I would suggest the post for each set of pics be in the post's title. This would make searches, including manual ones, much easier. (I noticed a lot of the individual pics already have suitable titles to use.)

P.S. I should give Chris credit for input and support in the effort.

01-20-2015, 03:03 PM
Routing of parking brake cable RH (101964) on an automatic transmission


Also useful images for seeing location of auto trans dipstick tube lower seal 102009 on page 4-5-2


And a variety of auto trans fluid leak points.

01-20-2015, 03:11 PM
Image shows location of attachment bracket for/with the vacuum solenoid (101116) on page 2-4-0.



(Note the vacuum hoses and electrical connection on the solenoid in this photo are not complete, but it still gives a better visual of the solenoid and bracket than trying to get your head back in there while the engine is still in the car.)

Also shows the distributor cap and location well, 102606 on page 3-4-0.


01-20-2015, 03:16 PM
Image shows the location of the oil pressure sensor (light) 102462 on page 1-2-0.



Note: the sensor shown here on the driver side of the vehicle is for the "idiot light" part of the oil pressure reading. If it is low, the warning light on your instrument cluster should be lit. That also means it should show as lit up if you have turned the key in the ignition to accessories but not started the engine (thus not producing any pressure... a-ha!!) The sensor/sender for the oil pressure reading itself (analog gauge) is located on the passenger side near the oil filter.

01-20-2015, 03:19 PM
Great thread, thanks for taking the time of posting pictures :thumbup2:

01-20-2015, 03:33 PM
Image shows the location of the oil pressure sensor/sender (gauge) 102763 on page 1-1-1.



Note: this oil pressure sensor/sender on the passenger side of the vehicle gives the analog reading/value back to the instrument cluster gauge. It will tell you what the oil pressure of the engine is, i.e. 75 psi or thereabouts. Whether it is low or not and sets off the oil pressure warning light, is up to the oil pressure sender (light) located on the driver side. The two sensors operate independently and one can be working while the other is not.

01-26-2015, 10:57 AM
Image shows the rheostat (100814 on page 3-6-2) wiring from underneath the shifter plate. This is on an automatic.



The second image shows the light bulb on an automatic which lights up the PRND21 part. Those wires are still there on a manual trans and sometimes those owners have wondered what the wires are/were for. This is it.

You can also see the early style auto trans shifter stem. This is the one which has the separate collar on the stem for the shift lock mechanism. That collar is tightened onto the metal stem with a small screw pressed up against the stem. The upper plastic portion (not shown) has the button itself and a plastic sleeve that comes down over the top portion of the metal stem. That piece can often twist with or without pressing the button and allowing you to move the shifter without pressing the button. Perhaps part of the reason why the design changed in later cars?


Thanks Domi! :)

Mods: not sure who our forum moderators are nowadays, but could one of you move this thread over to the Resources section, please? Thx.

01-26-2015, 12:53 PM
I have my 5 spd transmission in a million pieces so ill take some pictures. Nick has a video of the transmission disassembly that would be a excellent resource as well.

02-04-2015, 08:47 AM
When troubleshooting cooling fans that aren't coming on, the suggestion to jumper the otterstat often comes up. So, where is the otterstat?


It is on the driver side of the car, on the cooling pipe to the outside of the engine and lower down. You can see it from above or below, and if the piping "tee" which the switch itself sits in is facing down (as it should be to help eliminate air pockets) you will see the electrical connection better from below.


This is on a stock engine set-up. If your car has been changed or swapped to something else, the location of your otterstat may have changed.

The second picture shows the jumper in place. Since you are trying to fool the car into thinking the temperature of the coolant is high enough to turn the cooling fans on, the jumper goes on the leads and not the otterstat. Thus you need a short wire (the red one in the photo) with two male spade terminals on it to connect with the two female ends of the wiring. The "how-to" of troubleshooting your cooling fan circuit can be found elsewhere on the forum here, this is just where I wanted to post the photo.


09-12-2016, 06:06 PM
Recent discussion on why an engine bay light wouldn't turn off brought up this part:


This is the little clip that is what the light switch presses against to turn itself off. The clip attaches to the underside of the lower engine cover. When the lower engine cover is lowered, this clip comes into contact with the plunger on the light switch and turns the light off.

Here is a picture of the switch and clip from a distance while the lower engine cover is up:


The second photo was taken with the lower engine cover almost closed and is attempting to show how the clip comes down to press against the plunger on the switch:


09-13-2016, 11:56 AM
Yeah... I want one of those! My engine bay light (converted to LED) stays on 24/7. My car stays hooked up to a battery tender when it lives in the garage, so no real worries about the battery running down. I could simply unplug one of the switch wires, but that would be too easy. I'm hoping DMC-Midwest has these in stock when we are up there next week.

09-13-2016, 06:25 PM
More info here from previous installation.



07-22-2017, 08:20 PM
The idle speed thermistor (102480) is shown in this photo (not my own photo or labelling, but saved from a previous post some time ago).


It is located underneath the intake manifold in the valley and threads into the Y-pipe. It is part of the idle speed circuit and measures engine coolant temperature. Once the engine temperature is above a "cold" set point, it provides the permissive in the electrical circuit to continue on with the normal "warm" engine logic to control the idle.

If the electrical connector on this thermistor becomes disconnected, or isn't making a good connection for whatever reason, it can cause your engine to idle much higher than normal (~2,000 RPM). If this happens, the fix may be to get into the valley (by removing the intake manifold) and properly connecting the wiring to the thermistor.


06-11-2018, 09:18 AM
The fill and drain ports on the final drive are shown. This is on a car with an automatic transmission.

When checking the level of the final drive, refilling, or draining and then filling, be sure to remove the FILL port first and then once you know you can get it removed, go ahead and remove the DRAIN port.


09-26-2018, 09:03 PM
I just realized I had this photo after talking with another owner about sorting out why water was pooling in the passenger footwell. Knowing that if the evaporator drain hose is plugged or obstructed somehow, the water coming out of the air from the A/C will eventually overflow back into the passenger footwell instead of going out that hose and down over the frame and onto the ground. Describing where that hose comes out underneath the fiberglass body and above the frame isn't as good as a picture to do it for you, so here it is.


Photo was taken a few years ago at DMC Florida's old location when I was there and they had this pristine body lifted off its frame and up in the air. Not sure whose car it is.