VIN 16951 from France

[Lwanmtr]

Yep. I been taking the opportunity to modernize what I can, as well as fixing things and undoing PO mods...hehe

[Domi]

First time out of the garage since October, 17th 2015...
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[Lwanmtr]

Looking good. The black rims are definately different..hehe.

[Domi]

Yeah, maybe a little bit too dark...

[Lwanmtr]

I dont think it looks bad at all.

[Domi]

Thank you very much, I'll try to take another picture at the daylight with the sun someday :)

[Domi]

Just a little ride to see if everything goes fine.
So far, no suspect noise. I just found the steering wheel a little bit soft on a straight road.
We'll see in the next miles how it goes.
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[Lwanmtr]

Looks good...hope the drive goes well :)

[Domi]

I need to drive it a little bit more, and enjoy it :)

[Lwanmtr]

Ahh how I envy the folks who can drive their cars....lol

[Domi]

I didn't drive it since October 2015...
Worked on the car so far.
Now, I intend to drive it until next winter :biggrin:

[Lwanmtr]

Lol..I think oct 2015 was the last (only) time i drove mine.

Drive in winter too :)

[Domi]

New Optima & Ctek
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[Lwanmtr]

Whats a Ctek?

[Domi]

The Ctek battery sense device allow you to see the health of your battery on your smartphone.
See it here:
http://smartercharger.com/diagonstic/#CTEK%20CTX%20Battery%20Sense

[Lwanmtr]

Thats pretty cool

[DMC-81]

Just a little ride to see if everything goes fine.
So far, no suspect noise. I just found the steering wheel a little bit soft on a straight road.
We'll see in the next miles how it goes.
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Looking great Domi!

[Domi]

Many thanks :)

[Domi]

New replacement switch from DMCH :)
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[Domi]

New steering rack
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[Lwanmtr]

Looking good :)

[Domi]

Thank you :)

[Domi]

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First test tomorrow.
Looks like the space on the steering wheel disappear now.

[Lwanmtr]

Cool...hope the test goes well...will probably want to get it aligned by professionals

Fun getting up under the dash..much easier if you pull the seat out...hehe.

[Domi]

Yes I need to verify the alignment by a professional.
I wanted to do some gymnastic, that why I didn't remove the seat :hihi:

[Domi]

Test drive this morning. Everything looks good, no suspect noise.
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About the rear, I can't adjust the same height between right & left.
I've tried to play on the screw, but even with same height on the screw, the tires height is diffrent.
Any idea?
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[DMC-81]

Congrats Domi! The car looks awesome! :thumbup:

P.S. The countryside in your area is spectacular as well.

[Domi]

Congrats Domi! The car looks awesome! :thumbup:

P.S. The countryside in your area is spectacular as well.

Thank You for everything :)
Rear of the car is much better with this set-up
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[Lwanmtr]

Awesome! She's looking good all together.

[Domi]

Many thanks :)

[Domi]

Alignment done, this is much better now :)
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[Lwanmtr]

Neat alignment thingy...hehe.

Looks nice and clean underneath.

[Domi]

Thank you, the frame needs a little more cleaning, I'll do it when I'll find some free time :hihi:

[Lwanmtr]

If ya get bored, mine could use a nice cleanin'...hehe.

[Domi]

If I was not so far away, it would be with pleasure to help you ;)

[Lwanmtr]

Hehe,,yeah a lil commute..back in time for dinner

[Domi]

When I passed the smog emission test it wasn’t so good, so I’m trying to adjust it by myself.
First test with the lambda probe disconnect (mine is from 1999)
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On the other hand, when the micro-switch is on, the value exceed 60% (don’t know why yet)
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After a few adjustment, seems fine to me
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For now, impossible to unscrew the old lambda probe. Once it will be replaced by the new one, I’ll be able to see with an air/ratio meter where I am exactly.

[Domi]

Video:
https://youtu.be/tskt7Gz31rQ

[Bitsyncmaster]

An open sensor and pressing the WOT switch should set fixed dwell values produced by the lambda ECU.

Open sensor (or cold engine) should have 50% duty cycle or 45 deg. dwell.
WOT switch on should have 60% duty cycle or 54 deg. dwell.

When the lambda is working correctly on a warm engine the dwell reading swing back and forth quite a bit. About 25 to 45 deg. dwell readings.

[Domi]

Thanks for the information ;)

[Domi]

I guess I'm not good yet, too rich :(
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[Lwanmtr]

Just a lil more tweaking and you'll get it.

[Domi]

I hope so :wave2:

[Domi]

Still trying to adjust the engine :wrenchin:
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VIDEO /
https://youtu.be/o_x_XHcKPsw

[Lwanmtr]

I like that guage that tells you rich or lean...the other one with the numbers is just greek to me....hehe

[Domi]

I bought the air/fuel meter at Summit ;)
The other one tells you the Dwell value, don't worry you'll probably need it when you'll work on your engine!
Unless it is already working fine, I hope because it's a nightmare to find the right adjustment...

[Lwanmtr]

I'll probably have my engine serviced at DMCNW, at least as far as this kinda stuff goes...regular maintenance I can do myself.

[Domi]

If they not far away, that's the best way to do it :)

[Lwanmtr]

They're about an hour away from me (depending on traffic). Of course, the trade off is that I have to pay their labor time...hehe

[Domi]

At least your engine will run perfectly :)

[Lwanmtr]

Im actually dreading taking it up there...cause I really dont know what they're gonna find when they start going through it...lol

[Domi]

Still testing so far:
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Video:
https://youtu.be/wflPfEFa5b0

[Trstno1]

Still testing so far:
5321753216
Video:
https://youtu.be/wflPfEFa5b0

How well does that air/fuel gauge work? I'm sort of thinking of getting one for testing purposes.

[Domi]

You mean the dwell reading or the round air/fuel?
Dwell is connected to ground and positive to the test plug (different place from you VIN)
Air/Fuel has 3 wires, one to the ground, one to positive and one to the Lambda probe.
Hope this helps.

[Trstno1]

You mean the dwell reading or the round air/fuel?
Dwell is connected to ground and positive to the test plug (different place from you VIN)
Air/Fuel has 3 wires, one to the ground, one to positive and one to the Lambda probe.
Hope this helps.

Yeah the round air/fuel. Do you find it to be accurate? Is it worth having in the tool box? Do you have plans of permanently mounting it?

[Domi]

Yes I think its helpful to tells you how's your engine running, but I'm not an expert.
Nevertheless I think you might have it in your tools box, just in case.
No, I don't plan to mount it permanently in the car, I want to keep it as stock as possible.

[Lwanmtr]

Ive thought about getting one of those and putting it in the car somewhere..if I can find a place to mount it that doesnt look goofy...I like things with lights that move around...hehe

[Bitsyncmaster]

Ive thought about getting one of those and putting it in the car somewhere..if I can find a place to mount it that doesnt look goofy...I like things with lights that move around...hehe

That meter is really just monitoring the voltage on the stock narrow band sensor. You can't get much range from a narrow band sensor but it's really good at the 14.7 AFR. If you have a running lambda and a dwell meter it tells you the same that the mixture is correct or not.

[Domi]

Decided to go for a ride to see how my idle goes, was fine all the week without moving.
Unfortunately, after a few minutes driving something else happened...
I hear a loud noise on the front and was almost unable to move the steering wheels.
Finally I pull over on the road to see any damage.
I lost a nut on my lower arms which were brand new from Midwest.
Unfortunately, the nut isn't drilled and is just a lock-nut which moved away.
I checked the other side and is almost unscrew too, amazing!
So, like I wasn't too far away from home, my wife brought me some tool to repair the car.
I think it damage the steering rack (which was brand new from Ed) like I was unable to turn the steering wheels properly.
Anyway, needless to say I'm a little bit disappointed. I spent two years working on the car and now I'm a little bit tired.
Here are a few pictures...
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[Domi]

Get ready for another hours of fun under the car
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Fortunately, the damage on the lower arm are minor
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[Lwanmtr]

Ouchie! If that happened to me, I'd be screwed...When I get to that point I'm having DMCNW do all the mechanical and safety and reliability stuff before I drive it (again)...that way I know if something breaks, it aint my fault...hehe

[Domi]

You're lucky enough to have a trusted mechanic, at least near you :)

[chris williams]

So with all the comments on Facebook/forums etc did you finally work out who's ball joints these actually were? Fortunately no major damage was done to you or your car and for that we are all thankful and it looks like it may have been a washer issue but would be good to know.
Chris

[Domi]

Yes looks like the washer was faulty and help the bolt to be unscrew.
Next time it will be mounted with a castle nut and Loctite 270 to prevent any damage.

[Domi]

Start to disassemble the steering rack this afternoon
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Broken steering rack :(
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I think I need to drill this one to avoid any loosing nut. Can't see any new upper ball joint with a hole.
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[Lwanmtr]

Looks a bit narly to me, but then I've never seen one disassembled....whats broken on it?

[Domi]

The black tube isn't supposed to move

[Lwanmtr]

Ohh..ok....then yeah...broken :( Hopefully you can get a new one fairly inexpensive

[Domi]

I hope so...
This afternoon, I disassemble the driver's side
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[Lwanmtr]

You're braver than me...but it does look nice n shiney :)

[Domi]

Thank You!

[Domi]

Brand new steering rack from ED :)
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[Lwanmtr]

Cool...otta be a breeze to put in..hehe

[Domi]

Yep still a bit funny :hihi:
Other side removed this morning
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[Lwanmtr]

Yep, them springs are the main reason Im not in a hurry to touch the suspension myself..dont have the proper tools or experience on that.

Looking good though.

[Domi]

Yes you have to be careful because it can be dangerous when you work on spring like this.

[Domi]

I have most of the part to rebuild the front now.
This morning, I went to the garage to mount the lower ball joint on the arm.
Just did this so far on the car
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[Lwanmtr]

Nice...always good when you can make some progress...and looking shiny too :)

[Domi]

Yes, I cleaned the arm before, it's nicer :) (even if they will get dirty after a few miles...)

[Domi]

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[Lwanmtr]

Looking spiffy :)

Whats that green stuff?

[Domi]

The green stuff is "Duralac", something to avoid corrosion between two different material.
Someone in the UK club advice me this product.

[Lwanmtr]

Ahh ok..that makes sense.

[Domi]

Stabilizer bar is done. Torque done & Loctite 270
It won't move!!
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[Lwanmtr]

Hopefully it'll come off when you want it to...hehe. but really...looking good.

[Domi]

Yes, you need heat to remove the nylok and nut if needed.

[Domi]

Next:
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New torque wrench:
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Stuck here for now, my two drill have passed away ...

[Lwanmtr]

Looking good. Yaay for new tools...mine has forced me to get new tools as well...lol

[Domi]

At least the tools manufacturer are happy with us :hihi:
Other side is done
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[Lwanmtr]

Indeed they are..lol Prolly still more to get too..hehe.

I may go into the brakes at some point before I put the wheels back on...doubt they'll look as good as yours though..hehe

[Domi]

I’ve tried to mount the steering rack this afternoon, but after spend more than3 hours; it’s not finished yet…
Replace the little pin anyway; I thought the other one was too short.
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New poly for the steering rack from Ed Uding
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The other side isn’t aligned to the holes
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However the driver’s side looks good, so decided to remove the bolt
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And this is much better
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Unfortunately, now the driver’s side doesn’t want to get beck inside.
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[Lwanmtr]

Always great when you get to put new parts on....and always sucks when they dont line up right. I've learned to think of my car as an oversized model kit..and those always have parts that need tweaking to get to fit right...hehe.

[Domi]

Success, but not so easy with the new poly!
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Double bolt to avoid any trouble in the future :mrgreen:
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Didn't see if there is any value of torque for this?
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[Lwanmtr]

Cool. Those double bolts arent normally there?

Cant wait til I get to where I can get my suspension redone with all new bushings n stuff...the one time I was able to drive her, she squeaked like bedsprings in a porn movie...lol

[Domi]

Cool. Those double bolts arent normally there?


Yep, only one, but for safety two is better :race:

[Domi]

Tonight's work
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Let's hope she will start again after all this time
Next, redone the wheels alignment and cross finger I won't have any more bad surprise on the car...

[Lwanmtr]

Very nice. Looking like a car :)
Hopefully the rest of it goes smoothly for ya

[Domi]

Many thanks :hihi:

[Bitsyncmaster]

Photo #6 that upper locking bolt/nut looks to close to the coolant hose. May be just the photo but you may want to clamp that hose back if you can.

[Lwanmtr]

Huh..I hadnt noticed that...I'll have to look at mine to see if its like that..I dont recall my bolt being that long

[Domi]

Photo #6 that upper locking bolt/nut looks to close to the coolant hose. May be just the photo but you may want to clamp that hose back if you can.

Yes, the screw touch a little bit the stainless clamp for now.
I have to move it just a few inches.

[Domi]

Just a quick update on the thread.
I didn't drive the car very often since, at least 10 or 15 miles and then when I came back home I was unable to change gear, nothing at all...
So I ordered a set of parts for a new clutch, which I hope will be the cure of what happen to the car :(
Wondering when I will be able to drive the car and enjoy it...!
57547

[Lwanmtr]

Ooh, you've beaten my 4 miles total driving distance..like by 300%.

Hope the clutch clears your problem and you can get to enjoying the car :)

[Domi]

Thank You :thumbup:

[DMC-81]

Just a quick update on the thread.
I didn't drive the car very often since, at least 10 or 15 miles and then when I came back home I was unable to change gear, nothing at all...
So I ordered a set of parts for a new clutch, which I hope will be the cure of what happen to the car :(
Wondering when I will be able to drive the car and enjoy it...!
57547

Domi, sorry to hear that. I've been there with the shaft nut issue. What were the symptoms of the gear problem? For example, are you able to shift through all gears with the car off, but not while the engine was running? Were there any signs of a failing clutch on the way home (hard or clunky shifts)?

[Domi]

Domi, sorry to hear that. I've been there with the shaft nut issue. What were the symptoms of the gear problem? For example, are you able to shift through all gears with the car off, but not while the engine was running?

No symptoms at all, while I was driving I hit about 5000rpm and when I wanted to change gear it was almost impossible, I had to stay in 2nd
Yes I am able to change gear while the engine is off, but you can hear a little crack sometimes
When the engine s running, I can pass the 1rd but when I try to realease the clutch pedal, then the car is not moving and the 1rd stay on while nothing happen


Were there any signs of a failing clutch on the way home (hard or clunky shifts)?

No, no not all it happened once and that's it
Fortunately, I wasn't far away from home and was able to came back the 2nd gear without any stop on the road
Everything went off just in my backyard and was lucj enough some neighbors came to help me to put the car in the garage manually

[DMC-81]

It sounds like a bad throwout bearing, but of course you’ll know once you get it apart. Based on your symptoms, I would also check your bellcrank in your linkage.

[Domi]

All right, thanks for the advices :thumbup:

[Domi]

A few news from today, I just lift the car on jacks
For now it is 40 cm away from the ground, I don't know if it will be enough to get out the gear box on my little cart...
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[Domi]

First of all, I'm going to replace my pipes and get back to the original after a good cleaning
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[Domi]

Today I have finished of dismantling the old pipes to get back to the original ones which solved my steering problem.
Still four left pipes to mount and the job will be done, just flush of liquid.
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[DMC-81]

Looking good Domi!

Also, on this transmission comment:



No symptoms at all, while I was driving I hit about 5000rpm and when I wanted to change gear it was almost impossible, I had to stay in 2nd
Yes I am able to change gear while the engine is off, but you can hear a little crack sometimes
When the engine s running, I can pass the 1rd but when I try to realease the clutch pedal, then the car is not moving and the 1rd stay on while nothing happen

While I'm sure the RPMs during your shift didn't cause your gearbox issue, on average, I find that 3,000 to 3,500 RPMs is the ideal range for shifting. Any lower or higher than that causes rough clunky shifting, at least for me.

[CFI]

Awesome work! Well done, sir😀👍

[Lwanmtr]

Cool beans :)

[Rich_NYS]

Nice!

[Domi]

Thank you guys :hihi:

[Domi]

All pipes are now back in the car, just need to put some water in the tank and it will be fine
Next step, the gear box…
583495835058351583525835358354
If I see correctly, there is only 4 rear bolt to remove?
Apparently, 2 more for the starter?
583555835658357
And for the bracket, screw number 1 or number 2?
5835858359
And of course the manual shifting

[Jason]

There should be three bolts for the starter.

[Domi]

Ok, thanks ;)

[Bitsyncmaster]

You will need to remove the linkage brackets to clear the water pipes. Yes 4 bolts on the transmission to engine, 3 starter bolts and if you have the plate covers those come off (mine had no covers). You also need to move the brake cable out of the way (pull the end off the passenger side wheel). Of course you pull the line off the slave or remove the slave and tie it out of the way.

[Domi]

Thank you for the good advises :thumbup:

[Rich]

There should be three bolts for the starter.

Yes, and some advice for all when removing those 3 bolts and separating the starter from the bell housing:

Be sure to look for the centering ring for one of the 3 bolts between the housing and the starter during removal. It is OK to remove it for cleaning but do not lose it or forget to put it back in its hole when installing starter. It is important for maintaining precise engagement of starter drive gear to flywheel ring gear.

It is Item 10 in this diagram. (https://store.delorean.com/c-278-3-3-0-startersolenoid.aspx)

[SS Spoiler]

Don't lose the engine/transmisson alignment
dowels or the starter will bind up...

[Domi]

Sounds scary :8ball:
I hope everything will be fine...

[BABIS]

Yes, and some advice for all when removing those 3 bolts and separating the starter from the bell housing:

Be sure to look for the centering ring for one of the 3 bolts between the housing and the starter during removal. It is OK to remove it for cleaning but do not lose it or forget to put it back in its hole when installing starter. It is important for maintaining precise engagement of starter drive gear to flywheel ring gear.

It is Item 10 in this diagram. (https://store.delorean.com/c-278-3-3-0-startersolenoid.aspx)

I don't recall any space between the starter flange and the bell housing surface, I guess Item 10 is placed inside the bell housing to center one starter bolt, is that so? Thanks!

[DMC-81]

I don't recall any space between the starter flange and the bell housing surface, I guess Item 10 is placed inside the bell housing to center one starter bolt, is that so? Thanks!

Correct. One centering ring /dowel on one of the 3 starter bolts (the middle one). In this picture, you can see that the second/middle hole in the black protecting plate (101074) is slightly bigger to accommodate it:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49160&d=1488144287

The dowel also helps keep the plate in place while you are installing the starter.

[DJZAM]

Domi

I have just spent a couple hours over the last few days looking at your thread and I must say, excellent documentation in all the restoration and repairs you have done on your car over the years! You have included so much detail in your thread that I will certainly use what you have posted as a reference for some of the work I will do on my first Delorean I have just purchased! Thank you so much for your contributions to the community!

Cheers!

[Domi]

Thank you very much for your message DJZAM, it makes me happy to see all the hours spent to work on the car, taking pictures and so on will be useful to someone else.
That’s the main purpose of that tread, sharing with the community, and maybe avoid to make mistakes I could do in the past to others owners.
Once again, thanks again for your message.
Hope to see the work on car someday.
Good luck!

[Domi]

6012560124601216012260123
Can't do the job alone, so the car is going to a mechanic...

[Lwanmtr]

Yup sometimes just gotta get help with stuff.

[Domi]

Car is back home with new clutch, kjet is almost fine, I need to drive the car a little more than before, and crossed finger to avoid back luck anymore…
60215602166021760218

[Lwanmtr]

Cool/ Hopefully it runs smoothly now

[Domi]

I hope so :)

[Domi]

This morning I went to the French MOT and it passed successfully :)
Even pollution test was 0,27 a very good value for me here
Now, let's find some free time to enjoy the car and drive after all this work during the past years...
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[Lwanmtr]

Looking good and congrats on passing your MOT :thumbup:

[Domi]

Thank You :yesss:

[Domi]

34000 miles so far without any trouble, finger crossed :hihi:
61112

[Lwanmtr]

Cool

[Domi]

Cool

Thanks :thumbup:

[CFI]

34000 miles so far without any trouble, finger crossed :hihi:
61112

I recently hit 34,000 miles as well.

[Domi]

I recently hit 34,000 miles as well.

Great, let's roll those miles and take pleasure to drive the car after a lot of hours working on her :8ball:

[Domi]

Reunion after 24 years with the former owner. He was happy to see her again, especially as she is now.
A small road trip of 127 miles went smoothly, we regain confidence in the car now.
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Original license plate when the car was in the USA in Missouri.
Unfortunately, impossible to have one of the two plates to return with the car, he keeps a memory. Too bad for me…
61420

[Domi]

The former owner gave me some documents he didn't gave me when I bought the car.
The old certificate of title at his name's wife when he lives in the USA ans the paper of the sales.
I already knew the car belongs to an old lady whom decided to sold the car when her husband died.
The car was for sale at a garage because she didn't want to do any paper work, so it is impossible to know her names, and the couple has no kids.
Nowadays, the lady also died, so I think I have no chance to find the original window sticker and some old pictures back in the '80.
I only have the name of the seller whom own his garage, CHARLIE SCHMIDT from St Louis, MO
Do you think, there's a chance to find if this guy is still alive of if he has a child who will run his business and kept some old documents?
Thanks for any information which could help me to find historical document on VIN 16951
614226142161423

[Domi]

I think I found their website:
https://www.schmitt.com/
I will try to contact them to see if there is a chance to know more.

[JETS 81 DMC]

Domi,

I did a search for the address shown on the paperwork for and found this information:

Schmitt Charles & Co
3500 S Kingshighway Blvd
Saint Louis, MO 63139
Tower Grove South
Get Directions
Phone number(314) 352-9100

https://www.yelp.com/biz/schmitt-charles-and-co-saint-louis

The one you found may be a relative and also worth contacting.

[Domi]

Thank you very much for your help JETS 81 DMC :thumbup:

[Domi]

I think I found their website:
https://www.schmitt.com/
I will try to contact them to see if there is a chance to know more.

I don't think there is a link, I think it is more this one:
https://schmittmotorcars.com/contact/

Finger crossed :)

[Domi]

It was the good one, and I just received an answer:

"Dear Dominique,
Thank you for your email.
The one thing I can tell you is that we did sell the car to Thimon Liliane.
I no longer have the files so I am unable to provide you with any additional information.
When we downsized a number of years ago we only kept files from 2000 on.
I wish I could be of more help.
Regards,
Terry Schmitt
Charles Schmitt & Co"

I guess I won't be able to find the name of the first owner or the dealer's name in St Louis back in 1982.

[Lwanmtr]

Ahh well..at least they replied. Not even sure where to look for mine.

[Domi]

Yes, very kind from them to give me an answer so fast.
For yours, depend on you VIN, maybe you can track it easily with the DeLorean museum?

[Domi]

Robert Lamrock was kind enough to told me on the UK forum, that the only dealer whom sold DeLorean back in the '80 in St Louis was:

"Don Darr Pontiac 6303 S Lindbergh St Louis MO"

Unfortunately, I'm unable to see on Google if they have an email address or if they still exist nowadays?
Is there anyone whom could check that for me please?
I'd like to write them if possible if they kept any record by any chance...
Many thanks!

[JETS 81 DMC]

Robert Lamrock was kind enough to told me on the UK forum, that the only dealer whom sold DeLorean back in the '80 in St Louis was:

"Don Darr Pontiac 6303 S Lindbergh St Louis MO"

Unfortunately, I'm unable to see on Google if they have an email address or if they still exist nowadays?
Is there anyone whom could check that for me please?
I'd like to write them if possible if they kept any record by any chance...
Many thanks!

Domi,
Here are some links with some info. Their phone number is not valid any more. Looks like they are out of biz.
Maybe the company that bought out part of Darr business in 2001 in the first link below just might have some records.

https://www.bizjournals.com/stlouis/stories/2001/02/26/story6.html

https://www.bommarito.com/ Dealer who bought out part of Darr automotive. (Pontiac & Mazda)

http://localbiziness.com/biz/don-darr-chevrolet-de0c4f8c3

Good luck with your search.

[Domi]

Thank you very much for your kind help, appreciated :thumbup:

[Domi]

A few parts from DeLorean Go :thumbup:
62287

[Domi]

Replacement of the doors strut
Before
62289
After
62290
6229162292

I also replaced a window switch, because the light on my other one from Houston didn't worked anymore. Nevertheless, the illumination is a little bit a less brighter.
62293

[Lwanmtr]

Yaay..unsaggy doors. At least the door struts are like one of the easiest parts to the replace on these cars :)

[Domi]

Yes, that's easy at least :)

[Domi]

New parts from Dave McKeen :)
62724
Just need to find some free time to install them :hihi:

[Lwanmtr]

ok, prolly a dumb question....what is it? hehe

[Domi]

New Lambda relay to avoid heat :)
You can see more explanation on this thread:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9927-Does-the-Lambda-relay-always-get-hot

The Led board has a better illumination than conventional bulb.

[Lwanmtr]

ok, I thought that might be...i just replaced the bulbs in mine with led..not the whole board.

[Domi]

The new Lambda relay is in position in the relay compartment, thanks again to Dave McKeen
627956279662797
New step is to remove the old antenna which doesn’t work anymore.
The bracket needs to be refurbished with a new layer of black paint.
However, I don’t see on the electric drawing the polarity of the antenna’s wires?
Does anyone know the polarity please?
62798627996280062802

[Domi]

The following:
62813628146281562816628176281862819

[Lwanmtr]

Yaay electrical work...can be a pain sometimes.

[Domi]

Yep, right :biggrin:

[Domi]

Little bonus that makes me happy, and easy installation
62832628336283462835

[Lwanmtr]

Even the little easy things are cool to do. :)

[Domi]

Even the little easy things are cool to do. :)

Exactly :hihi:

[Domi]

Installation of the antenna, it was necessary to modify the bottom of the support because the fixing and evacuation holes are not aligned.
Otherwise, for the moment impossible to make it work ...
The polarities are reversed when the ignition is on, and when the station is on.
For example /
White: Once negative once a positive
Yellow: Once positive once a negative
Brown: positive after contact
In short, it is to go crazy...
62859628586286062861

[Lwanmtr]

My antenna doesnt work, but I havent decided if Ill replace it or not.

[Domi]

I have to bypass the original relay to make it works.
You should replace yours too, it's always nice to have something's working on our car :biggrin:

[Lwanmtr]

Hehe..maybe at some point..but there are alotta things ahead of it in priority...like getting her road ready

[Domi]

Power antenna is now working properly
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSAVUGtTWdA&feature=youtu.be
62945629466294762948

[Lwanmtr]

Cool :thumbup:

[Domi]

This afternoon I installed Dave Mc Keen (Bitsyncmaster) Led board, and what can I say, it's simply amazing.
The result is absolutely beautiful. Before this, I, had white Leds behind the panel and the illumination wasn't nice enough.
Now, a few pictures to see it:
63377633786337963380633816338263383633846338563386 63387

[Lwanmtr]

I have the white LED's in mine...but yeah that new one looks much better..I want one..hehe

[Bitsyncmaster]

Paint the plastic face plate black where the round push buttons sit and you wont see the lights on the sides of the buttons. They were painted black in stock form. That prevents the light from bleeding on the sides of the buttons.

[Domi]

All right, I'll see how it goes in the future.
But for now, it's fine for me like this :)
Thanks ;)

[Domi]

Happiness for a short time. The engine run 15 minutes and then I left the car outside, time to clean up the garage about 3 hours and then when I restarted the engine, the rear def light was on without the center button?
Then 30 seconds later some smoke happened and I immediately cut the power off.
The red wire and black wire are almost gone...
Does anyone encountered something like this?
I didn't saw any short circuit against the plate so I wonder why is this happening?
Do you have any clue please?
Please see the pictures below:
63421634226342363424

[Bitsyncmaster]

Happiness for a short time. The engine run 15 minutes and then I left the car outside, time to clean up the garage about 3 hours and then when I restarted the engine, the rear def light was on without the center button?
Then 30 seconds later some smoke happened and I immediately cut the power off.
The red wire and black wire are almost gone...
Does anyone encountered something like this?
I didn't saw any short circuit against the plate so I wonder why is this happening?
Do you have any clue please?
Please see the pictures below:
63421634226342363424

It looks like your metal plate pushed up on the connector pins. The circuit board is probably OK but the connector is shot. PM me your shipping address and I will send you an new board and new connector harness. I will cut the pins as short as possible and epoxy over them. Do a little inspection to see if that was the cause.

[Domi]

All right thank you very much, just sent you my address on facebook.
None of all the leds are still on.
Maybe there is a short cut on the connector?

[Bitsyncmaster]

All right thank you very much, just sent you my address on facebook.
None of all the leds are still on.
Maybe there is a short cut on the connector?

I'm surprised you did not blow a fuse. Since my wire is 22 AWG a bad connection would be in that area.

[Domi]

The fuses are okay
It works until I moved the gear box...
So I guess the shifter plate moves a little bit and touch the connector?

[Bitsyncmaster]

The fuses are okay
It works until I moved the gear box...
So I guess the shifter plate moves a little bit and touch the connector?

The plate should have alignment guides to prevent that but I just cut the pins and put some epoxy over your new one so it should not happen again.

Check that all your lights are working in case you blew a fuse.

[Domi]

All right, thank you :)

[Domi]

Thank you David for the new led board.
I start installing it with the new wires.
For safety, I have installed a 3A fuse.
Nevertheless, on my other board my leds for the lock door were brighter.
It should be the same as the defrost switch.
I wonder why is this happening, any ideas please?
636416364263643636446364563646636476364863649

[Bitsyncmaster]

The LEDs are the same parts. I wonder if your connection is changing the voltage sometimes. Unless I put the wrong value resistor on the board. Look at those little blue resistors to the right side of the door lock LEDs. They each should have a 1001 number to show they are 1 Kohm.

[Domi]

I can't read easily, but it should be good
63650

[Domi]

Took another pic with another phone, and yes it is 1001
The connection are the same as last time
The fuses are OK
If I remove my 3A fuse, nothing's work so no short circuit I guess

[Domi]

If I'm not mistaken, I should have 12V between those two wires?
New Harness OEM harness
YELLOW brown/pink
ORANGE light green/white

[Bitsyncmaster]

If I'm not mistaken, I should have 12V between those two wires?
New Harness OEM harness
YELLOW brown/pink
ORANGE light green/white

Yes when the lock door light is on the orange wire gets power from fuse 10 through a diode and the yellow wire gets grounded by the door lock ECU.

[Domi]

All right, thanks ;)

[Domi]

Even I remove fuse 10, the lock doors led still working?
I don't see any short cut on the wire, I have to remove the center console to see if it's deeper? Weird?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Even I remove fuse 10, the lock doors led still working?
I don't see any short cut on the wire, I have to remove the center console to see if it's deeper? Weird?

Something is wrong. Ether you have the wire connected to the wrong OEM wire or someone has modified the OEM wiring.

I even just tested it on my car, fuse 10 out (key on) = no lock door light, fuse 10 in = lock door light on.

I think there may be another light green/white wire circuit you have it connected to. Pull fuse 11 and see if that turns the light off. If so you have it connected on the wrong light green/white wire.

[Domi]

The wiring is the same as the first time, and it was working properly.
Fuse 10 in or out = still little light
Fuse 11 out no more light on the entire board

[Bitsyncmaster]

The wiring is the same as the first time, and it was working properly.
Fuse 10 in or out = still little light
Fuse 11 out no more light on the entire board

Your orange wire is connected on the wrong light green/white wire. I think the purpose of driving the door lock light through the diode is because the door lock ECU drives +12 volts and ground. So the diode prevents the ECU from powering other circuits if you have an incandescent bulb in the door lock location. Driving it on the wrong circuit is back feeding the LEDs close to exceeding the LED specifications.

[Domi]

I have only one light green/white wire and like I said it was working perfectly before the board moves.
Could it be a dead diode?
Where is it located? Near the connector behind the plate?

[Domi]

63665

[Bitsyncmaster]

63665

That photo looks like the brown/pink wire is spliced into the light green/white. If so, that is not what the schematic I have shows.

[Domi]

No, it's two different wire.
I took another pic
63670

[Bitsyncmaster]

No, it's two different wire.
I took another pic
63670

Than I think that would be the correct light green/white wire to connect to. I never really noticed when I wired mine because I used the wires that were on the OEM fan fail light socket.

[Domi]

I did the same.
Like I said it was working perfectly before the short circuit happen.
So, I think it may damage the diode or something else, but what?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I did the same.
Like I said it was working perfectly before the short circuit happen.
So, I think it may damage the diode or something else, but what?

So was your first photo taken before with first board and your basing how bright the second one is by looking at that old photo?

Scratch that last comment. After looking back at your photo I see the door lock LEDs are very dim. I was looking at the rear defog LEDs and was wondering what was the problem.

You must have a voltage issue. You can test the diode by replacing it with another diode temperately. Use one of the dome light diodes. But you still have a problem if removing fuse 10 does not turn the light off. Also maybe your door lock ECU got hit with that short circuit. Also check the inertia switch is not tripped.

[Domi]

I did not change anything in my wiring on all my photos.
Defrost light is OK, only light doors is weak.
So, I guess there is a current in the other wire, and lock doors isn't working, that's why I don't see any difference when I remove it or not.
I'll try to check another diode or order a new one.
The car start, so the inertia switch must be correct and the door lock module still operating doors.
Fingers crossed for a faulty diode...
Thanks again for your help!

[Bitsyncmaster]

I did not change anything in my wiring on all my photos.
Defrost light is OK, only light doors is weak.
So, I guess there is a current in the other wire, and lock doors isn't working, that's why I don't see any difference when I remove it or not.
I'll try to check another diode or order a new one.
The car start, so the inertia switch must be correct and the door lock module still operating doors.
Fingers crossed for a faulty diode...
Thanks again for your help!

I think if you actuate the inertia switch then it should ground the light even with the lock ECU not working. It also should unlock the doors if it is working.

[Domi]

Use one of the dome light diodes.

I didn't find them?
Front and rear removed but didn't saw one of them?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I didn't find them?
Front and rear removed but didn't saw one of them?

You can use one of the fan relay diodes. In the harness near center of car in relay compartment. Just be sure to put the diode back on the fan circuit after you test. Any color diode is fine. They just used colors to help the assembly at the factory.

[Domi]

I ordered a new diode from DeLorean Go
I will see if I'm lucky and if it's the faulty one

[Domi]

David, your new led board is working perfectly.
The short circuit destroy the diode that’s why the lock doors led wasn’t working properly
Now it’s all protected against another short circuit and the board isn’t moving
Thanks again David for replacing the faulty board
63694636956369663697636986369963700

[Lwanmtr]

Nice..glad you got the short sorted out. Im prolly gonna buy one of his boards too.

[Domi]

Went to a friend’s house this week-end, the car drove very well.
180km of pleasure
A few pictures:
63995639966399763998

[Lwanmtr]

Awesome.

[Domi]

Just did some cleaning last Saturday
6416064161641596416364162
641676416864169
Please let me introduce you our new co-pilot, "Cookie the Aviator"
641656416664164

My son and I
64170

[Lwanmtr]

Looks good..and your copilot is neat

[Domi]

Thank You :hihi:

[Domi]

Today, I had a visit from a friend with his car. He purchased it last November 2019
A few pictures:
642596426064261642626426364264

[Lwanmtr]

Nice.

[Domi]

I finally received my steering wheel center pad
This is a really nice addition to the car, looks like the original with the DMC logo
6432664327643286432964330

[Lwanmtr]

Looks nice.

[Domi]

Today, I replaced the old connector of the tail light, replaced the license plate light, and new Drayron board.
A few pictures of the result, pretty happy with it.
64931649326493364934649356493664937649386493964940 64941649426494364944649456494664947649486494964950 649516495264953649546495564956649576495864959

[Lwanmtr]

Very nice.

What is the advantage of those new boards?

[Domi]

A better visibility in the dark, because now, all the 3 red square are lighted instead of one.
You can see a video on his website:
https://drayron.com/product/drayron-tail-light-board-set/

[Domi]

Powder coating of the rims, bringing it closer to the original color, in any case much better than the black paint done before:
6602166022

[Lwanmtr]

Looks nice :)

[Domi]

Thanks :thankyou:

[steel_it]

The new steering wheel looks great! Also love the shinier rims!

[Domi]

MOT passed this week with success, pretty happy :)
6698766988
And a little ride:
6698966990

[Lwanmtr]

MOT passed this week with success, pretty happy :)
6698766988
And a little ride:
6698966990

Cool..I hear MOT can be hard for the older vehicles to pass.

[Helirich]

Nice!

[Domi]

Thanks guys :thankyou:

[Domi]

Hello all,
About 2 years ago, I installed the Drayron board (see previous page)
I have a little problem with it.
When I hit the breaks, my light doesn't lit up, sometimes a little bit ans sometimes almost nothing.
On the other hand, if I switch on the light, then my 3 lights works ans when I hit the breaks, it also work.
It does not work only if my switch is off. It should work and it was working fine so far.
Does anyone occurs this problem?
Thank you for your kind help.
--> Break pedal no light
68864
--> Light switch ON
68865
--> Light switch ON + Break pedal
68866

[Mark D]

Each taillight board is somewhat independent of the other, so the fact that the brake lights are not coming on either side unless the headlights are on makes me think there is something going on with the vehicle's wiring, not the boards.

If you have your original tail light boards I'd try swapping one or both back in to see if the issue persists. There could be an issue with the ground for the brake light circuit causing them to not work, but when the running lights are on, the brake lights are able to find an alternate path to ground.

EDIT:

One other thing worth testing: On each of the Drayron boards, microswitch #4 controls if all three red lights are illuminated as running lights, or just the center one (as standard). ON = three lights, OFF = single center light. Try flipping the switch to OFF on each board to see if that changes the behavior you're seeing with the brake lights.

[Domi]

Thank you for your answer.
Everything was working fine since 2 years.
So, I guess a bad ground could be the problem, but why on both boards at the same time.
I'll try to put back my PJ Grady's board to see if everything is working fine with normal bulb, instead of Leds.
On the other hand, both connectors are news with new soldering.

[Domi]

By the way, I don't have the sequential tail light, but the normal one.
There is only one ground on this board, so it's really weird why it isn't working properly.
I have cleaned all the contact which were changed 2 years ago, so they weren't really dirty.
Put some contact spray on the bulbs,but it works only 1 time on 6...
On the other hand, it works fine with my old PJ Grady's boards and normal bulbs.
So, for now I have put them back because it's too dangerous to drive like this, the car's behind you might not seen when you hit the breaks...
68870
68871

[DMC-Ron]

Hello all,
About 2 years ago, I installed the Drayron board (see previous page)
I have a little problem with it.
When I hit the breaks, my light doesn't lit up, sometimes a little bit ans sometimes almost nothing.
On the other hand, if I switch on the light, then my 3 lights works ans when I hit the breaks, it also work.
It does not work only if my switch is off. It should work and it was working fine so far.
Does anyone occurs this problem?
Thank you for your kind help.
--> Break pedal no light
68864
--> Light switch ON
68865
--> Light switch ON + Break pedal
68866

Domi,
Based on your photos and your description, this is an issue we have not seen before. I believe you have our enhanced taillight board, not the sequencer board. The enhanced board is direct wired. There is no microcontroller or electronic switching in that product. In that sense, its circuitry is it is similar to the original taillight board and to all the other vendor offerings including the Grady board with the exception that we use dual filament 1157 lights for the middle three segments.

In any event, we would like to work with you to resolve the issue. Let's get a conversation going. You can contact us at [email protected]

Sincerely,
Ron Anderson
DRAYRON
[email protected]

[Domi]

Hello Ron, yes it is the enhanced taillight board, not the sequencer board.
That's why I don't understand why the breaks are working with lights ON and not alone like before.
I guess it it was a faulty ground on the car, the other board won't be able to work properly, but that's not the case as you can see on the photos above.
I will try to makes them work in the next few days, but for now the old boards are back in the car.
I will see if its working properly like this, and then try to put your boards back on the car.
Anyway, thank you for your help. I will send you an email when I will work again on the car.

[DMC-Ron]

Domi,
After some deliberation, we have a working theory that fits the symptoms. When you get back to working on the car I have some tests for you.

First, the theory: We believe that the brake signal is not getting full voltage. We're guessing its getting about 8 volts. 8 volts is commonly the trigger point for LED bulbs. Below 8 they will not turn on. Just above 8 and they will sometimes light up very dimly. Incandescent bulbs on the other hand, show filament glow at 4 volts and at 7 volts glow very similar to your photo (but photos are hard to judge).

Verification: Simply checking the DC voltage on the brake circuit at the taillight connector while the brake lights are on would be the simple method to verify. If it's reading 8 or less volts this would identify the issue. Should you not have a volt meter, an alternate test would be to remove all but one brake light bulb. You should observe the remaining bulb glowing much brighter. An additional test would be to swap the running bulb and one of the brake light bulbs. Turn on the running lights and press the brake. You should observe a side-by-side marked difference in bulb intensity (by the way, it's perfectly OK to put the larger 1156 bulb in the middle running light socked for this test).

Assuming the brake circuit has a low voltage issue, the problem is in the common components and wiring serving the taillights since both lights are presenting the anomaly. The most likely (and fortunately easiest to fix) cause of the low brake light voltage would be the fuse. Since you have a later 83 version car, your brake fuse is #18 in the fuse block. Remove this fuse and inspect the fuse blades and fuse box connectors. Clean both with DeoxIT electronic cleaner, CorrsionX, or some other cleaner. Consider installing a new 20 amp silver plated fuse. You can use a multimeter at the fuse to confirm the fuse is receiving and delivering 12 volts. If you verify full 12 volts on both sides of the fuse (with the brake lights on) the next possibility is the brake switch. It's located above the brake pedal and with a meter you can verify a full 12 volts on both sides of the switch (with the brake pedal on). If there is a voltage drop across the switch it will need to be cleaned or replaced. If the switch is OK, then the wiring harness is suspect. Check the black bulkhead connector pin 41(green-purple wire). You may need to clean the connector and push it into position to insure good connection.

Please let me know what you find. If none of the above proves helpful let me know and we'll work with you to troubleshoot further.

Ron Anderson
DRAYRON
[email protected]

[Domi]

Ron,
Thank you very much for the leads.
First of all I will start to clean the connector above the break pedal. Then, I will clean/change the 20A fuse and connectors.
I do have a voltmeter, so I will be able to check the voltage on the circuit board.

[Domi]

I have cleaned all the main components, and was able to measure the voltage on the board.
The result is 11,6 volts.
For now, I don't put them back on place and keep going with the old board.
I will see how it goes in the future.
If it still works like this, I will try to put the Led back to see how it goes then.
68927689286892968930

[DMC-Ron]

Domi,
If that 11.6 volts was measured with both old taillight boards in place and the incandescent brake bulbs glowing, then that is a good result. If it was measured without the boards and bulbs, then not very helpful and further testing is warranted.

If I assume your 11.6 volts was with boards and bulbs, and engine off (battery only), congratulations, the issue should be resolved. I would expect the new boards to work well and be much brighter than the incandescent older boards. I would encourage you to reinstall your new boards. I think you will find the visibility of your car greatly enhanced.

Please let me know how things go.

Ron Anderson
DRAYRON

[Domi]

Domi,
If that 11.6 volts was measured with both old taillight boards in place and the incandescent brake bulbs glowing, then that is a good result.


Yes, this is how I took the measurement.
I will try to put your boards back on the car to see how it works now.