View Full Version : VIN 16951 from France
Let me introduce you to VIN 16951 from August 1982. I just want to create a thread on the car to share the work done on the car over the past few years and the years to come. Nevertheless, it’s not a major restoration, so I hope you don’t mind a thread here?
So, I bought the car on October the 14th of 1995. The car had around 24000 miles on the odometer.
It belongs to a lady who was living in Missouri. A French guy bought it and brought it back to France and keeps it just 2 years and decided to sell it because he has too many cars. It means I am the third owner of the car.
I took a few pictures when I brought it back home. Old license plate ending 73.
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Changing owner means changing license plate, this time ending by 38
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Sorry guys for the quality of the pictures, but back in those days, I didn’t have a digital camera and I’m not sure if it already exists.
I didn’t think to take pictures of all the work done at this time and I regret it now.
Fortunately, I took a few and try to explain the little job done.
On the last pictures, I don’t know if you saw it, but the front light was European, not the original sealed beam, I ordered them at D1. They had a really nice printed catalog and Internet wasn’t part of my life like many of previous owners I guess, but it was fun to write and go to the post office to buy nice stamps for the USA!
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Fortunately, some parts were available in a French Renault garage. I had to change the fuel accumulator a few days after being an owner. Spark & wire were changed too, to name a few parts.
I didn’t think about taking picture at that time…
I was younger and interested by new radio. I decided to take off the Craig to replace it with a more modern unit. Also, I have installed a rear camera because I thought it was cool to get a black & white monitor on the dashboard.
The new radio needs some power amplifier to play songs.
As an ’83 model it doesn’t have a clock on the dash, so replaced it by a thermometer at this time.
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Like many people, I thought the car was too height for a sports car.
Old fashion way was to cut the spring to get it lower.
First time I made a mistake and cut too many spring so the front was too loo, and almost touch the ground… I had to ordered some new spring from D1 and cut it properly this time.
You can see the result below.
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This was the first modification to the car. Time changed and improvement too.
For example, for the spring, it will be safer to change them for the set of Eibach which I already bought and changed the chock by the Spax.
Furthermore, the radio will be replaced by the original Craig… The camera and monitor will be removed too.
And then, time to digital pictures. (I have plenty of old silver pictures but it will take too much time to scan them all and beside they are only cruising pictures or stand still picture of the car)
So, when I had problem with my exhaust I asked how much it would cost for a brand new one, but with the shipping charge and custom tax it was very expensive. At that time even with a Swiss specialist it was expensive to buy it.
So, I asked someone to make his own exhaust in stainless to replace it. The price was almost equal to the original and will last forever. So, I decided to do it this way and the result was quite nice.
I’m sure you can find a better design nowadays but I’m happy with this one.
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Someday, a leak appears next to the clutch pedal. It was time to change master and slave cylinder, and by that time to do a complete rebuild of the brake which wasn’t be done since a few years.
The car will be unavailable for the next few months.
As you can see there is a lot of rust down there.
All the parts will be repainted.
I have tried to paint the breaks in red, but the result wasn’t really good as the paint wasn’t a good quality.
Time to redo it and remove this paint to paint them in grey.
Of course, the break line will be change for the stainless version.
A brand new fuel filter will be there too.
I was lucky to find a brand new reservoir on eBay.
Clutch and brake are now good, quite happy with the result.
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As a bonus, I bought for the car the new door lock module and the joe cool module
This was allowing me to see a few problems I didn’t pay attention into the past.
A few wires were melted as some fuse.
So, it became urgent to repair all this until the car will burn itself…
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I bought a brand new fuse bow from Ed Uding.
The job was done in one day, I must say I am most confident now but have to check regularly to see what is happening here to avoid this.
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Time to rebuild the cv joint boot and drive shaft, because one had a hole in it and the grease disappear.
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After 19 years, it was time to change once again the fuel accumulator.
I spend 3 days to change it because I was unable to unbolt the screw, so painful. There is no room for your hands down there.
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Fortunately, the car works fine now.
Anyway, it was only for a few months, because something else appears on the car. The water temperature was going to the red zone.
In fact, it was a problem from the thermostat. A friend came to help me on this, 4 hands are always better than 2!
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A little bonus, a temp gauge on the water bottle.
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During all these years the car was still at my parents’ home because I was living into an apartment without any garage for the car.
Now, I live in a house, and I have made a special garage for the car. This will allow me to work more often on the car.
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Right now I have to change the water pump because it leaks a few.
Furthermore, all these years I bought several parts I have to change on the car. (from all the vendors out there)
I will try to take a picture of all of them when I will find some time.
So, I will try to post some pictures when I’ll be able to work on the car.
New home means new license plate with a different format now
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ALEXAKOS
08-05-2014, 03:18 PM
Holly crap Domi!!!
I had no idea! Yes too bad your work is not depicted. But from what I see you are quite talented!!!!!
Merci pour les Fotos:!!
Dangermouse
08-05-2014, 03:23 PM
lots and lots and lots of nice photos, Domi :)
Thank you guys, more to follow in the future when I'll be able to find free time to do what I have to do next...
Just a few pictures to show you all the parts I still need to do on the car.
Miscellaneous parts:
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Spax shock:
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Eibach springs:
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Stainless pipes:
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New radiator:
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Luggage rack:
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Stainless steel fuel tank plate:
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BABIS
08-10-2014, 03:21 AM
awesome pictures! where have you bought the stainless water pipes and the stainless tank plate??
ALEXAKOS
08-10-2014, 10:18 AM
:eek7::eek7::eek7::eek7:
What???
You have the nerve to have all those awesome parts sitting on your shelve??? heheheheeh
I would not be able to go to bed knowing these FANTASTIC upgrades are sitting next to my D!
awesome pictures! where have you bought the stainless water pipes and the stainless tank plate??
Thanks!
The stainless water pipes came from the UK: (Thanks to Chris Parnham for the link)
http://www.stainless-exhaust.com/
The stainless tank plate came from a vendor from eBay.
He sold 2 or 3 of them.
I bought it because is has the same design of the original plate, the other vendors (for now) doesn't have it but just flat...
:eek7::eek7::eek7::eek7:
What???
You have the nerve to have all those awesome parts sitting on your shelve??? heheheheeh
I would not be able to go to bed knowing these FANTASTIC upgrades are sitting next to my D!
Yes I know, I must find some strength to mount them on the car and at least enjoy the car with them :wrenchin:
BABIS
08-13-2014, 03:28 AM
Thanks!
The stainless water pipes came from the UK: (Thanks to Chris Parnham for the link)
http://www.stainless-exhaust.com/
the same manufacturer of the UK exhaust!
After all these years, I have decided to remove these entire little gadget, rear camera & bip when you back up.
At the same time it’s time to change the plate behind the exhaust, because mine was a little rusty. The new one came from Delorean Industrie, thanks to Josh
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As always, the screws are also rusty and broke when I tried to remove them. They will be changed by new one in stainless.
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Removing all the wires I have connected
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The new stainless plate from Josh, a beauty
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These screws are also a little tired and two of them broke…
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I’d like to replace them by something like this
http://www.deloreanindustries.com/rear-fascia-lower-stud-kit-stainless/
On the other hand, how to remove the old ones?
And how to fix the new ones, by glue?
Any advice guys?
Next step will be to change the water pump, which is leaking…
I need to change it to take it back to the road again.
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Tried to disassemble some parts, but I don't have an 11 wrench :biggrin:
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Delorean Industries
04-12-2015, 01:30 PM
We remove the old inserts with a flame-less heating element and or cut out with a heated knife. Installation is a breeze with the proper two part epoxy and new insert kit. Replacing all nine usually takes a couple of hours. We only do this off car btw.
Thanks for the tips Josh :thumbup:
The new stainless steel plate is in place.
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When I was looking at my parts, i found that I already bought the screw for Josh a long time ago :)
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In the mean time, I will install new lighting in the engine compartment as mine was in short circuit.
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Delorean Industries
04-20-2015, 07:37 PM
Domi you are quickly approaching having everything we offer. Simply epic.
Both light in place
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Let's keep going disassemble the other components to get an access to the faulty water pump
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Seal need to be replaced
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Broken bolt :(
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Wish me luck to remove it...
Delorean Industries
04-21-2015, 12:47 PM
Unless cross threaded the banjo will come right out.
Success, it's out :)
Let's hope I won't break any other...3402734026
A few more pic from this morning here
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Small screw on the starter is in a poor access and very difficult to unbolt :(
Last one before removing the wire.
I was unable to remove the screw.
I think I need another tools, I'll see one at the shop tomorrow.
I have installed this stainless steel plate from Josh, looks good to me
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Removing some parts to get an access to the water pump, I'm close now :)
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I think I have some limestone on my pipes.
I'll try to remove it with some white vinegar. We'll see the result.
Jusy some cleaning today
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And still fighting against this screw which I'm unable to remove for now :(
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I finally managed to remove this nut
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I go so slowly
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Everything we cleaned properly there 1 year ago is refilled yet again, proving that the pump actually doesn’t work properly
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I struggled to loosen the alternator belt
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Finally I managed to dismantle the pump
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To disassemble the rear of the pump. I still have 2 screws
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My vacuum cleaner "home made" (yellow pipe)
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I also wanted to dismantle these pieces to better clean them, but it remains stuck on the seal and on the other there is a screw that I can not get loose, I'm afraid of breaking it.
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Failing to undo the last flanges screw I decided to leave them and clean them in place.
I'll see later to change the two gaskets.
I have installed 2 temporary hoses supplied with the kit. (silicone in the next few months)
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Until the last screw soak in wd40, installation of the taillights circuits from PJ Grady bought at DPI
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I think to get my wires here rather than the intake pipe, which will prevent me from dismantling the connectors in the future.
What do you think ?
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Finally, the last screw was removed, but for now impossible to remove the back of the pump.
Does anyone have an idea?
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Thanks !
Finally find a way to remove the back of the pump
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It's a little bit rusty inside
Some cleaning
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And painting
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ALEXAKOS
04-26-2015, 11:24 AM
Fantastic work Domi!! Although that beautiful rear plate is not possible to see when mounted... The pump pulley the the most important look;). That's some pretty awful rusty coolant water:s
Thanks for the compliments, appreciated :)
We can see the stainless plate trough the hole of the bumper and always see it to enjoy it :hihi2:
Yes the coolant in the valley has a dark color, nevertheless, the coolant in the pipes was fine.
3 layers of hight temperature paint should be enough to protect them :biggrin:
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All parts ready to be assemble
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ALEXAKOS
04-30-2015, 01:14 PM
My nightmare!! Restored the whole thing... The waterline was my nemesis. Good luck Domi;)
Many thanks!
I'm just doing the water pump for now, I'll do the other things in the next few months.
Water pump assembly for now
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ALEXAKOS
05-01-2015, 09:28 AM
Nice Domi! Small tip;
When applying liquid gaskets do not clean off the excess glue upon assembly. Let it dry for a couple hours and then you can easily pull it off when dry. That way it is nice and clean and you don't get all smeared in it;)
Thanks for the tip :thumbup:
Water pump back in the engine compartment :)
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Kherns
05-04-2015, 01:38 AM
Good work Domi ! You're almost done !
Free time today, so let's keep going on rebuild my parts
Put these two pipes around the water pump. One of them was a little bit too long, so I had to cut it.
Next time it will be silicone pipes.
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Next:
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I replaced the broken screw from the fuel line.
I think I need a complete kit of screw for the next time.
I tried to mount an alternator tensioner I bought on eBay, unfortunately, like I still have an old alternator, the hole for the screw is too small anf I can't fit it.
So, for now I mounted the stainless one from Josh.
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Almost done, top of the engine is okay, I just have one little wire to connect on the starter at the bottom.
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Next step, buy some coolant and do some test :)
Bought some coolant today, and fill up the tank.
Bleed the air and everything should be fine, but no.
The water temp came up to 220° and my fans doesn't start at all?
I don't know why, as the thermostat is like new, less than a year.
Also, I had to replace the copper seal on the fuel lines, as I had several leak, i don't want to burn the engine compartment...
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Small update, I just check the level of my water tank and it was empty!
I think that's why the cooling wasn't on at the moment.
I don't even think to touch the water pipes next to the cooling system.
Next try tomorrow!
I have installed the set of lifts pistons from PJ Grady, awesome product!
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I think I would need in a near future a reinforcement plate at the passenger side
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And a small video
https://youtu.be/y7-8zAmfeuk
Someone told me the lift piston on the trunk and louver are upside down?
What do you think, is there a way to lubricate the piston better than another?
Just did this way, took a look at some pic of others car
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A friend told me the right way for the rear piston
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Today, I received a brand new alternator from John Hervey
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And this license plate just for fun :umm:
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PJ Grady Inc.
05-30-2015, 11:00 AM
These pictures are the way that the factory fitted them and I believe is the correct way.
Rob
Just did this way, took a look at some pic of others car
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Stabilus website advice to mount the head of the piston down to lubricate them?
Link to a French website:
http://www.stabilus.fr/service-apres-vente-pieces-de-rechange/montage-astuces-indications/
PJ Grady Inc.
05-30-2015, 05:45 PM
I wish I took French in school as I can't read it. Exactly what is the "head of the piston"?
Rob
Stabilus website advice to mount the head of the piston down to lubricate them?
Link to a French website:
http://www.stabilus.fr/service-apres-vente-pieces-de-rechange/montage-astuces-indications/
I wish I took French in school as I can't read it. Exactly what is the "head of the piston"?
Rob
The ROD part in this document:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34671&d=1433006354
Link provided by DMC5180 here:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11184-P-J-GRADY-Lift-Piston-feedback-wanted&p=173931#post173931
Bought a brand new alternator from John Hervey, 140A and started to remove the old one.
Also, bought a tensioner bracket on eBay to replace the original one, I think it it will be easier for the belt.
Connect the new wire of the alternator to the old one by soldering.
Here are a few pictures.
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The new alternator is in place. Too bad the 12v screw is not at the same place of the old Motorola.
The wires are now closer to the exhaust :(
Here are a few pictures.
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I had a noise in the rear wheel, I think it's from the plate that was touching the arm
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Also, replaced the rear seal, too bad the new ones are shorter than the original
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Tried to replace both tie rod end with no luck today.
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I wasn't able to unscrew them, maybe because of the original black paint.
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So, for now I have just changed the ball joint with some new grease inside.
This is the fastest way to repair them, as I need the car to be ready for the French test (MOT) at the end of this month.
Next time I will change everything.
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Inspection for safety was done at the end of July, success :)
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Looking good, Domi! :thumbup:
Are you coming to Eurofest?
Thanks Martin :)
No, unfortunately I won't be able to come to Eurofest :mecry:
Thanks Martin :)
No, unfortunately I won't be able to come to Eurofest :mecry:
Awww man! We all want to see your car for real! :headbang:
Maybe someday, who knows!
I'd love to go the museum to see VIN 514 :yesss:
Finally found some free time and strength to do some work on the car.
For now, just disassemble the engine compartment to do some update.
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Spend a few hours to work on the car today :)
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Next:
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I intend to clean all the parts and try to paint them, this will look better I think :)
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Just empty the cooling system to avoid a lot of water in the engine compartment when I will disconnect the pipes.
Some cleaning on it
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A recalcitrant screw
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Pump Disassembly to facilitate disassembly of other parts
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Finally, screw fit despite being soaked all week at WD40
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I'll try to make a small cut to slip a screwdriver
Despite having drain the system, there still remain liquid
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So manual vacuum
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16949
10-27-2015, 12:04 AM
Let me introduce you to VIN 16951 from August 1982.
Mine is just 2 cars before yours! Neat to see how they compare-
If you have some pictures, I'll be curious to see it :)
I tried to heat the screw, but for now, it still does not move
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Valve cover is ready to be removed for cleaning and high temperature paint
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I’d like to remove the crossbrace to clean and paint it because it’s rusty.
Nevertheless, does someone have a clue how to remove it?
I guess it’s better if the car isn’t on its wheels?
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On the other hand I have the silicone kit from Josh, but I was wondering where these pipes are going? (red arrow)
I thought it was behind the VOD? If someone already did it and have a photo or a drawing, it will be helpful.
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16949
10-27-2015, 11:43 PM
If you have some pictures, I'll be curious to see it :)
The only pics I have are those that the seller supplied. I'll take some detail pics, though, first chance I get..
Just did some cleaning and painting this afternoon :)
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Dangermouse
10-29-2015, 04:21 PM
sacre bleu, Domi, you've been busy !!!
looking great
Just a little painting and cleaning today, that's all.
A few pictures.
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On the other hand I have the silicone kit from Josh, but I was wondering where these pipes are going? (red arrow)
I thought it was behind the VOD? If someone already did it and have a photo or a drawing, it will be helpful.
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Anyone has a clue please?
Sill no one knows for the question above?
New sensor
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DMC-81
11-08-2015, 08:05 PM
Anyone has a clue please?
Hi Domi,
Looks like you're very busy working on the engine! I didn't get Josh's hose kit, but I found a pic of the installation of my new DMC hoses by the heater valve.
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The 2 short (5/8" I.D. ?) hose lengths go as follows:
1 From the hose barb on the left engine bank (near the ignition distributor) to an aluminum tee
2 From the other side of the tee to the heater valve
The other side of the heater valve connects to a longer length heater hose of the same diameter, that connects to a hard pipe on the right side of the frame. (I can't remember which one as there are two).
The 5/16 I.D. hose connects the top of the aforementioned tee to the coolant expansion tank. A shorter length of this same diameter hose is used to connect the top of the radiator (right) to the barb in the pipe that feeds it.
I found the DMC website's parts diagram to be very helpful. I also labeled everything with tape.
Hope this is what you were looking for.
Thanks for the tips DMC-81 :wrenchin:
Not a lot of job today.
Put the valve cover gasket on both side
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And adjust the sensor with Loctite 577 to avoid any leak in the future
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I'm trying to remove the two screw of the cross brace.
The screw on the right seems to unscrew easily but the one from the left doesn't coming, and I don't want to break it.
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The car sits on the frame for now, so no strength on these screws?
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Any advice to remove those screws please?
So, I was able to remove the last screw. Below the screw, I have a square nut which I hold with a screw driver to avoid it to move.
A little bit rusty but I will clean them and they will be like new.
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Let’s hope I will be able to do it again when I will be ready to put the cross brace back.
A few pictures, but sorry for the bad quality, I guess my camera is a little bit tired
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Here are some pictures of my cross brace, this way, you will understand why I needed to remove it to repair it properly.
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Here is where I am so far, going slowly
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Before replacing the cross brass, I wanted to change the gas line, but it's one week that soaked in WD40 unsuccessful, nothing moves :mad:
Patience :biggrin:
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Finally made it!
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A little cleaning
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Let’s do the other side…
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Some parts from all the vendors in DMC world
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Stainless steel fuel line to replace the old one
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Cross brace back in place after 3 layers of paint. Worth the pain to remove it to repair it.
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Stainless hook
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Old bracket VS new one
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Stainless steel water pipes to replace the old one
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On the other hand, looks like I damaged the small pipe from the Hot Water Valve
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However, I can’t see it on the drawing?
https://store.delorean.com/c-363-7-1-3-heating-system.aspx
Any idea how to replace it?
Slammer
01-10-2016, 05:39 PM
What about #29 here https://store.delorean.com/c-365-7-3-0-electricalmechanical-controls.aspx
I guess yes, thanks!
Nevertheless, it will be cheaper and easier to repair just the broken part.
I forgot this part last time
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This one need to be restored
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I have removed the pipes from the hot water valve and back water pump. Not a lot of room to remove them
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Success, hot water valve removed but I can’t do the new because some clamps are missing in the kit
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New pipes looks nice
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The bracket has been painted
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On the frame with the stainless pipes
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Coolant pipes, I had to cut the length of one of them because it was a little bit too long
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Removing the clutch pipe
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New sensor
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New screws
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Valve covers are back in place with the AC
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New stainless pipe with its bracket
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Stainless Clutch and bracket
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Hot water valve with its new pipes
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New rotor and cap
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Old sparks
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New stainless water pipe
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New seals
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This parts doesn’t look good because the hole wasn’t correct for the screw, so I had to replace it with a bigger one
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I have to find the two other screws somewhere
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The bracket of the resistor is very rusted, so I need to remove it to change it
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Does everyone remove the capacitor on the coil?
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New sensor on the engine block
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Rich_NYS
02-06-2016, 07:17 PM
:thumbup:
DMC-81
02-06-2016, 10:12 PM
Looking good Domi! :thumbup2:
Thanks guys :hihi:
New connectors
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Clutch Bleeder
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Looks like I have a problem with my stainless pipes water kit
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New grounds wire
39698
New spark plug wire
39699
Injector needs cleaning
39700
New oil pressure sensor
39733
Nevertheless, it does not screw everything, please see picture below. Does this happen to anyone else? (I hope it won’t leak oil)
3973539734
New wire from the starter to the alternator bigger and longer to avoid heat from the exhaust pipe
39736
WUR cleaned
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The stainless bracket is back in the engine compartment, and a new coil
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Injectors are ready for a new seal and a new hook
39986
Not so easy to remove and to put on the new one
Soak in WD40 and with the help of a 14 wrench push to remove the seal
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Same thing in reverse to put the new seal
3999039991
Injectors are finally ready
39992
With the new stainless steel fuel lines
39993
In the engine compartment
39994
New wire, longer and bigger from the starter to the alternator
40197
New silicone pipe to the stainless pipe
40196
Put all the red silicone vacuum line in place
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I wonder how you tight this part? Do I need a special tool? Thanks!
40200
Old fuel line from the frequency valve removed
40280
New stainless fuel line, let’s hope everything is okay with the clamp
40281
Go back into the engine compartment
40282
Replace those clamps
4040140402
Water pump is back into the engine compartment
4074740748
New belt and screw
40749
Only one pipe on two, such a pain to put them back. I thought silicone pipes were easier to mount, but no...
40750
DMCMW Dave
03-11-2016, 08:31 PM
Replace those clamps
4040140402
Good idea.
Thanks Dave :)
A little job this morning
All silicone pipes are good in the engine compartment
4075440755
New electrical terminals
40756
Cleaning and new seals
40757
New stainless bracket
40758
Job of the afternoon
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New stainless bracket from Josh
40785
Just clean this part, I didn't want to disassemble everything
40786
New rod assy throttle in stainless
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Disassembly of the kjet to clean it up and change some parts
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For some of you whom already did it, did you put some glue like this on the new gasket?
40877
A little painting today
40897
Still disassemble the water pipes
40898
New stainless bracket
40899
New stainless water pipes under the car
40900
Old and new fuel tank plate (stainless steel)
40901
The pipes with the bracket
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Unfortunately, I had a broken screw and tried to drill it to repair it, but for now I can’t drill it with my Dremel.
40904
Kjet rebuilt :)
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New fuel filter and stainless steel fuel line above
41117
Does someone already tried to replace the hard line by the stainless one from John H? Looks like very difficult to replace it? Not so easy to do it.
Kjet into the engine bay.
41118
And, of course there is something wrong… I lost a small pin down there… (and a small lamp)
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So, I had to remove some parts to get it back.
Everything back in place
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Stainless steel fuel lines connected
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Replaced those 2 front water pipes
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Next step, remove radiator & fan
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I have painted the rusted area with POR15
Before:
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After:
41267
Everything will disappear to come back to original
41268
New circuit breaker
41269
Stainless steel plate under the tank, done! Not an easy task alone.
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One more pipe and it will be okay under the car :)
Last silicone pipe under the car done
41433
Removed the radiator & fan
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Dangermouse
04-11-2016, 08:51 AM
WOW, you are really talking this thing apart Domi. It's looking even better than before.
Great work!!!
Thanks for the compliments, appreciated :)
Painting
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And little cleaning today
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Assembly
4150941510
And removing old rusty rock screen
41511
Just did a little painting on the bracket
41649
Finally removed the old stereo unit
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New spire nut
41769
POR15
41770
And POR15 everywhere to avoid rust in the future
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New rock screen
41774
Second layer of POR15
41863
And add a new ground to the ECU
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Painting... again :mrgreen:
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I had to remove POR15 on the bracket because it didn't hold on. So, now I wonder if I try to paint it black or invisible paint to protect it like it is now.
41892
Just changed the ground wire from the battery
41903
The old one was rusty
41904
Finally painted black anti rust
41905
The radiator and fans and back on the car, not so easy lying under the car
Replacing the bracket, new horns with stainless bracket and also stainless bracket for the radiator.
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I’m trying to mount the radiator duck, but not so easy to do it. On side only is okay for now.
4198641987
When you take a look on Ed’s site or Houston it’s a two part component now?
We’ll see that tomorrow, after 4 hours of working on the car, I’m a little bit tired.
After a few hours, the radiator duct is finally mounted back.
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And the last stainless pipes are now back in place
419984199942000
I wanted to redo the level of clutch fluid today and despite the valve is operating, nothing comes out?
Without the valve, the liquid reaches well, so I assume that the valve is defective.
I do not know if I can find it here or if John can provide me another in exchange.
4200842009
Otherwise, I installed my new gas line, which should prevent leaks at the filter.
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New fuel pump to replace the old one (21 years old)
42092
The old pump wasn’t rusty and the boots not too damaged.
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The tank isn’t too dirty but deserves to be cleaned
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Taking back the old connector to the fuel pump
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She's thirsty :biggrin:
42110
New fuel pump installed :thumbup2:
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New battery terminal
4315143150
Well, I have tried to restart the engine today, no luck
The engine start but stalls after a few seconds (see video)
https://youtu.be/EFbsw2YaxpE
The fuel lines of the pump are correct, tried to invert them and the pump make a weird noise…
On the other hand, I had a leak on the top of the fuel filter, even with new copper seal…
No more leak elsewhere.
I will try to start it again tomorrow, but I have to find what is going on now?...
Engine doesn’t run properly at this time, I still have to push the accelerator pedal to start. But then, it runs good.
I have to check it when I’ll find more free time.
Anyway, I received my aluminum lower arm, they’re really beautiful.
Few parts missing and then I’ll be ready to mount them to drive the car again.
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Looks like I don't have the right lower ball joint, the hole for security isn't here
44232
16949
07-07-2016, 12:52 AM
My 16949's younger sibling is getting such pretty upgrades! I'm jealous!
Sent from my SM-G928P using Tapatalk
My 16949's younger sibling is getting such pretty upgrades! I'm jealous!
Her time will come someday :wrenchin:
Nothing's done since last time, just a new starter cover today :biggrin:
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Engine compartment almost finished :)
46148
DMC-81
09-05-2016, 04:37 PM
Engine compartment almost finished :)
46148
Wow! That looks great! Congrats! :thumbup2:
Finally find some free time and some strength to go back to work.
This afternoon, I did the right side and a little bit the left side.
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I worked on the other side this afternoon.
Did a lot of cleaning because of the black layer on the arm...
Then, applied some paint to refresh them.
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SS Spoiler
11-01-2016, 05:59 PM
Are the black and white floor tiles vinyl, or ceramic?
l
Dangermouse
11-01-2016, 09:50 PM
Nice work Domi.
Are the black and white floor tiles vinyl, or ceramic?
l
They're ceramic ;)
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Cleaning today, nothing really interesting
Not really satisfied with the result, and found some rust point I have to repair before re-assembly all the parts…
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Removed old paint and then applied some rustol before POR15
47274
Then, replaced old pipes to new stainless ones from Josh
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POR15
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New boot
474224742347424
Chris 16409
11-22-2016, 12:46 PM
New fuel pump to replace the old one (21 years old)
42092
Hey Domi, I would recommend you get this plug for the pump:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3781002&cc=1381069&jnid=513&jpid=1
I didn't really like the one that was provided. There is also an AC Delco branded one as well:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=340894&jsn=233
Just a point to remember, the vendor who sold you the pump bends the pump connector pins out slightly to accommodate his plug. You will need to bend them back so the correct plug fits like it should.
All right, thanks for the advice ;)
Lower and upper arm on the frame
4745747458
New isolator spring
475304753147534
Front cut spring VS Eibach
47532
New Spax shocks & Eibach springs
4753347535
There is a gap with theses polybushing. Does anyone encounter that kind of problem?
47536
Next step:
476074760847611476104760947606
Next
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Let's work on the rear of the car
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Do I have to cut the clip to get back the rear spring platform?
47914
Slammer
12-17-2016, 03:59 PM
You should be able to lift the platform right off, when the spring is out.
479194792047921479224792347924
New bushing and started to paint the arm
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SS Spoiler
01-07-2017, 07:19 PM
aww, now there is paint on the floor tile....
Ah ah, don't worry I have to replace that floor anyway in that room :biggrin:
And it's too cold outside :cry:
All arms are painted and I think they look good
48282482834828448285
Assembly of the arms
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The other side is bit rusty and need some Rustol & POR15 before I mount the arms
48289
DMC-81
01-14-2017, 05:45 PM
Looking good Domi! :thumbup:
Next…
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So far, impossible to remove the last tab. Just put some WD40 and hope it will work.
For those who mount the Eibach spring with the Spax shock, what is the height of the screw from bottom to top please?
Trstno1
01-21-2017, 01:33 PM
New isolator spring
475304753147534
Front cut spring VS Eibach
47532
New Spax shocks & Eibach springs
4753347535
There is a gap with theses polybushing. Does anyone encounter that kind of problem?
47536
So I've been working on my front suspension as well. Question I have is where and how much grease do you put on the ends of the new springs prior to installation?
I've put grease on all the front & rear spring insulator to avoid small noise.
Replaced the two rusty bold for safety
485224852348524
New poly and stainless plate and bolt and new tab
48525485264852748528
Now the other side, once I will succeed to remove the old tab
So far, the arm is on the floor.
I still have to remove the bolt. I cut it and drill it, but still not good.
I have to drill bigger but just can't do it now.
48662486634866448665
At last, removed this damn TAB
48688
Cleaning the rust point (weird the one on the other side didn’t have a spot of rust…=
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Applied some Rustol and the nit will be POR15
4869148692
Removed the old 21 years old tires this morning, it’s time to change for something new for safety
48801
Last layer of Rustol to protect the arm against the rust
48802
Poly on the passage side
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Stainless steel brake line
488054880648807
I’m unable to screw it for now, time to get some rest
48808
The arm is back with new tab and screws
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New stainless brake line, not so easy because it wasn’t exactly the same pattern
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Old steering will be replaced by a stainless one, as soon as I will succeed to remove it
4882648827
BABIS
02-05-2017, 01:36 PM
New stainless brake line, not so easy because it wasn’t exactly the same pattern
do you mean the threads are different or the bends ?
The bends were a little bit different from mine.
I guess all cars aren't the same.
Removing the old steering, it was a little bit rusty
489034890448905
I’d like to change the bushing, but I’m afraid I need to remove the steering wheel from inside?
48906
Old VS new one
48907
Before and after cleaning
48908
DMC-81
02-14-2017, 11:56 PM
Looking great Domi! That's quite a difference in the air deflectors.
Thank you, I spent a few hours to clean it.
Just need to do the other one now :biggrin:
New bushing and steering today
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New canopy
490524905349054
New oil
490554905649057
Can’t remove this bold for now…
49058
Both plate are cleaned up
49059
My wheels are back from the guy whom restored them.
I'm very happy with the color, unfortunately, it's only the front of the wheel.
He didn't painted the interior and exterior of the wheels.
Here are a few pic, I will take another shot in the daylight, because it look different.
49237492384923949240
At the daylight
49243492444924549246
Flushing the old oil
49248
I bought two new bold to replace them, but unfortunately the size isn’t really the same diameter.
492494925049251
I prefer not to try to insert them, I’m afraid to damage the thread
Cleaning the trunk with Rustol and applying stainless steel label
492524925349254
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dmcnc
03-12-2017, 01:09 PM
Where did you track down a new canopy?
:wow:
New canopy
490524905349054
New oil
490554905649057
Can’t remove this bold for now…
49058
Both plate are cleaned up
49059
Where did you track down a new canopy?
:wow:
I bought it on the "delorean car show" web site, back in... 2009
This mornig, four brand new tires :)
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Painting on the other side, inside the house beacuse of the bad weather outside :(
49794
Bill6298
03-25-2017, 01:02 PM
This mornig, four brand new tires :)
4978649787497884978949790497914979249793
Painting on the other side, inside the house beacuse of the bad weather outside :(
49794
Are those matching tires in OEM sizes??
Looking these up on the Internet they both appear to be Nankang XR611. I must be looking at something wrong.
Are those matching tires in OEM sizes??
Looking these up on the Internet they both appear to be Nankang XR611. I must be looking at something wrong.
Yes same brand for the front & rear :)
Yes it's the Nankang XR-611 for both size ;)
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Bill6298
03-25-2017, 02:37 PM
4980149802498034980449805498064980749808
I thought I was sniffing PB blaster for too long.
So, it looks like it might be hard/impossible to get those rear tires in the US. I can get them in AU, France, and the UK. If I find a source in the US, I'll let folks now.
They look great, BTW.
Thanks, I hope you'll be able to find them in the USA
Painting done and stainless steel labels
498694987049868498714987249873
Fiberglass repair
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Tape malfunction
https://youtu.be/B8PUwPeCpew
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508455084650847508485084950850
Gregadeth
04-11-2017, 03:59 PM
Nice work Domi. I'm planning on removing my center console pretty soon to change the radio and upgrade to LED lights, so your pictures will be extremely helpful. :thumbup:
Many thanks :)
I'm glad to read that my pictures will help you, that's the main reason why I like to share my work.
New brackets for the rear speakers
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50891508995089850897508965089550893508945089050889 5089250900
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51056510575105851059510605106151062
Second layer of paint on the wood
5108651087
Trunk is almost full :umm:
51088
Four years ago I bought a Craig radio on eBay, to replace mine which I cut the wire on the back. Unfortunately, the new one doesn't work properly. No radio and no tape at all.
So, decided to make one with two. Took the new wire, new front display and new belt for the tape.
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At the end, everything is working fine :)
So, in fact the original radio is coming back to the car in great shape.
511015110051102
Here is the rear bracket
51111511125111351114
Good bye to the old carpet
511155111651117
Some fitting will be necessary before applying glue on the back of the carpet
5111851119
Still working on the carpet, but I don't have the good stamps
51320
Disassembling the rods around the windshield and... bad surprise :cry:
5132151322
Next:
5136851369513705137151372
Next...
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5148351484514855148651487
iflights
05-14-2017, 01:21 PM
5148351484514855148651487
Header panel looks great. What kind of prep and paint did you do on it?
Not painted yet, just applied a kind of primer called "rustol"
Then, it will be black paint which I hope will stay on the stainless panel
The vents are back in place, not so easy to insert the rubber behind
51552
A little cleaning :)
5155351554
51564515655156651567
Still no light on the arrow...
51568
On the other hand, the new switches blown me the fuse number 11
However, the jumper is exactly like the drawing include with them
Any ideas please?
The fuse blows only when the jumper for the light is on (new switches from DMCH bought a long time ago)
51579
Without the jumper, the switches are working perfectly, weird?
Maybe there is a mistake on the drawing?
Found the answer by testing one switch after another.
One switch works properly, and the other one don't.
Once the jumper is in place the fuse blown. I bought them in 2015 from DMCH (installed now), so I guess the warranty is expired ????
51661
Next:
516555165651657516585165951660
51778517895178851787517865178551784517835178251781 517805177951790
I'd like to remove the doors panels, but I can't?
Any ideas how to disassemble it please?
518095181051811
DaraSue
05-27-2017, 11:59 AM
When I had to reseat my drop glass, I found these threads helpful.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3180-How-To-Remove-Interior-Door-Panels
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7228-How-To-Replace-Delorean-window-drop-glass
The 2nd one has videos that go through how to take the panels off as well. I remember finding it kind of tricky to get the escutcheon out, and then get the bolts back in under it when I was done, but I can't remember exactly what I did that finally worked, sorry...
(I think I had to put the bolts back in by sticking them in the socket wrench and putting them in upside down with the door up. The video talked about some way to do it with a special kind of tape (double-stick?) that probably would have been easier than what I did...)
Thanks for the link, appreciated ;)
Success, thanks to Raphael on the French forum for his advice :)
51812
DaraSue
05-27-2017, 12:30 PM
Thanks for the link, appreciated ;)
Success, thanks to Raphael on the French forum for his advice :)
51812
You're welcome, glad it worked out! :)
New carpet on the doors
5187151870
While the glue is drying, I'm replacing the glass on the passenger side. (the driver's side doesn't move for now)
518725187351874
Back in place
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Other side done
5190651905
Done too :)
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Lwanmtr
06-02-2017, 04:32 AM
Looking good. Did you use the convex mirrors from dmc?
Looking good. Did you use the convex mirrors from dmc?
Thank You :)
No, I bought them from our friend here at DMCTALK:
http://dmctalk.org/member.php?1554-Tomcio
Here is his website:
http://www.deloreana.com/
Lwanmtr
06-02-2017, 03:41 PM
Ahh. I got mine from DMC...of course there was no heated option available...lol
Mine doesn't have the heated option either ;)
Lwanmtr
06-02-2017, 03:54 PM
Oh ok then..how come you didnt get the heated?
Too bad the wiring wasnt already there to put turn signals in the mirrors...hehe.
I don't drive the car on winter, so I thought I wouldn't need this option.
Lwanmtr
06-02-2017, 04:15 PM
Makes sense. Im building mine up to be my daily driver so I woulda...even though we dont get harsh winters..besides its cool to say 'i got heated mirrors'..hehe.
Yep, just like a modern car
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