Storage Compartment Door with 8" sub built in

[Nicholas R]

I've been thinking about doing this for years and just never got around to it. I apologize if it's already been done but I've personally never seen or heard of it.

Anyway here it is! It's a new driver side storage compartment door with an 8" subwoofer built into it. I know sub boxes are designed with certain spaces in mind but far as I can tell this thing works great! No rattling, crackling, and the 8" provides more than enough bass for the tiny space. Plus there's still plenty of room behind the sub to store things (non ferrous things at least)

In the past I installed an amp for a 12" I had sitting on the parcel shelf but it took up way to much room and was either the sub or the flux capacitor (not to mention WAY too much bass for the car). Obviously the flux capacitor won. I still had the amp installed so I decided tonight I was going to try to build my door with an 8" bazooka tube sub I had.

Dont mind the color, it WILL be changed. The fabric was stripped from the bazooka tube that the speaker came from both so that I knew the piece would fit with fabric, and so that I can use it now :D. (plus free trumps aesthetics) I'm going to shop around for a more appropriate color.

Shown below is the build process and final product:

1/2 inch particle board to start
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG00981-20110802-2242.jpg

Piece cut out with 2 aluminum tabs
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG00982-20110802-2242.jpg

Holes cut, tabs bolted on
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG00983-20110803-0210.jpg

Component fit up
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG00984-20110803-0210.jpg

Fabric glued on
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG00985-20110803-0238.jpg

Fabric fitted around holes
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG00986-20110803-0249.jpg

Components installed
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG00987-20110803-0300.jpg

Next to the original door (there's actually enough room to put the lock on the new door if I want to make it more permanent.
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG00989-20110803-0300.jpg

Here you can see the back side
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG00991-20110803-0307.jpg

Here is the finished product installed in the car. (Again dont mind the color, I'll shop around for a better fabric in the future)
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG00994-20110803-0310.jpg

[MartyP]

Interesting !!!

[Morpheus]

That looks really cool! I bet you could make a few more of these and sell them...

[stevedmc]

How much do you want for one?

[ydjk58]

Seeing this, I should be able to fit my 10" in mine.

[Michael]

DMC does this to their refurbed cars with the optional sound system, only the box is completely enclosed(no port) and slides into the opening. Mine uses a 8" sub and the system is driven from a Genesis Profile 5 amplifier hidden behind the rear deck.

[Nicholas R]

Seeing this, I should be able to fit my 10" in mine.

Yea I wondered about a 10". I had three 8" and two 12" subs lying around so I couldn't really test a 10. The 12 would have been REALLY close, but I had a 12 in the car once before and it was just WAY too much bass for me. I'm sure a 10 would fit but I doubt either the wireports or the breather hole would be able the go on the door, not that they coulnd't be put somewhere else. My 12" double sub box doesn't even have breather holes.

For the 8" sub to fit I had to cut about a 6" hole so I assume for a 10" sub you would need about an 8" hole. For the 12" I guess you would need a 10" hole but the door itself is just about 12"x12" already so it'd be pretty darn close.

Either way I'm certainly satisfied with it :D

[nullset]

I don't think a 10" sub would work very well in that space.

Did you fill it up with fiberfill? I hear that makes subs in small spaces feel happier.

--buddy

[Nicholas R]

I don't think a 10" sub would work very well in that space.

Did you fill it up with fiberfill? I hear that makes subs in small spaces feel happier.

--buddy

I did not. Should I? I still have the original foam and carpet inside the compartment. I'm too familiar with the science of subwoofer design and location. Still far as I can tell it sounds great. DEFINITELY a welcome upgrade from the lack of bass coming from the 4x10s.

[Kukem]

I think this is an awesome mod! It looks sleek and stylish and even with the light gray material, still works. I'll just have to take your word for it that the bass is good where there is no audio clips! =D great job!

[Nicholas R]

I could try to record the audio with my laptop or phone but I cant really think of a way to really showcase the bass.

Concerning the color, I wonder how this color would look on a light grey interior.

[Nicholas R]

I tried recording a quick video on my phone. Not really sure how it will sound to you but either way in the car I think it sounds great. Also any crackling is from my phone not from the audio itself.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-Uw79muCBk

[stevedmc]

Good music.

[robvanderveer]

I like this.

[Nicholas R]

Good music.

Thanks! It sounds pretty good in the car.

[Spittybug]

8" JBL sub woofer. All I did was cut out an opening in a piece of MDF that is the same dimensions as the carpeted door. I reused the locking mechanism (took a little bit of chiseling of the MDF) and the biscuit-type feet that hold the door in place. Nice coat of black paint and it looks OEM. The flash always washes all my pictures out; in person it is nice and uniformly black. The JBL woofer is plenty of base for this car. I turn up the volume on the Alpine head unit and mono amp mounted on my firewall, and I get a nice back massage as I go down the road!

Ignore all the wiring to nowhere in the cubby; that is the harness to the old ECU and lambda units that are no longer needed since I went full EFI & spark control.

[Nicholas R]

Thats awesome! Very nicely done! I knew I couldn't be the only one who had done this.

I like that textured look.

I really think this is about the only practical place for a subwoofer. In this tiny space.

Also +1 on an 8" being plenty of bass for the car.

[sdg3205]

Nicholas,

Are you running a Craig or ASI?

I'm wondering how you powered the sub and routed signal.

As much as I like storing my fire extinguisher and emergency coolant back there, I'm starting to lean towards the sub!

[ydjk58]

My ten inch sub will have plenty of room in that little space. It's a dual voice coil model, and its shallow mount, made for installation behind the seats in a pickup truck

[Nicholas R]

Nicholas,

Are you running a Craig or ASI?

I'm wondering how you powered the sub and routed signal.

As much as I like storing my fire extinguisher and emergency coolant back there, I'm starting to lean towards the sub!

I'm actually running an aftermarket radio that has separate outputs for a subwoofer. Still, if I was running the Craig or ASI, I assume you would simply split the rear speakers off to run both to the speakers and to the subwoofer amplifier.

[Nicholas R]

My ten inch sub will have plenty of room in that little space. It's a dual voice coil model, and its shallow mount, made for installation behind the seats in a pickup truck

DEFINITELY post pictures! Depending on how it turns out, I may make another one of these for a 10" sub. The only reason I started with the 8" was because I already had an 8" lying around.

[Ashyukun]

DEFINITELY post pictures! Depending on how it turns out, I may make another one of these for a 10" sub. The only reason I started with the 8" was because I already had an 8" lying around.
I'm quite interested in how the 10" works out as well- I have a dual-voice 10" Kicker in a truck sub box on my package shelf at the moment and would LOVE to be able to get that space back to actually, you know, put packages. :P

[Ryan King]

So do you have an Amplifier with the 8" sub? I am just oblivious when it comes to speakers. Or can I just tap it into the existing speaker wire for the rear speakers?

[TTait]

You'd want a separate amp, and a head unit (radio) with a subwoofer out and a switched power wire to turn the amp on and off.

It's technically possible to build or perhaps buy a black box that would take the signal to the rears and tap off it and transform it into a line level input for an amp, and to tap off the antenna wire for the amp power signal, but its not the most practical way of doing things.


I flirted with this idea a few years back and actually built this with a 10" sub:

3410

but never installed it because the amp I had turned out to be dead. In the meantime I have installed new infinity speakers that sound great, and have enough bass for my tastes (I'm happy if the low end is heard by the occupants, but not felt outside the car).

See this thread for more info on those speakers, as well as the mounting hardware you need to get to use them with an original dash... http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?572-Choices-of-speakers

[jerzybondov]

Here's my install. 10" square sub and a mini amp next to it. Doesn't affect the ability of the seat to go back. Sounds great...

Sub just needed a small wooden edge on the LHS and bottom edge to fit the hole. I have carpeted this edge - you can just see it between the amp and the sub.

http://www.deloreaneurotec.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=1790&p=33777&hilit=subwoofer#p33777

[sdg3205]

So do you have an Amplifier with the 8" sub? I am just oblivious when it comes to speakers. Or can I just tap it into the existing speaker wire for the rear speakers?

Hey Ryan,

This is what I was going to do.

You can run your rear L & R to the amp, which will have speaker L & R and Sub output as a "through put" which means the cross over in the amp will split signal between the sub and speakers.

[Ryan King]

Hey Ryan,

This is what I was going to do.

You can run your rear L & R to the amp, which will have speaker L & R and Sub output as a "through put" which means the cross over in the amp will split signal between the sub and speakers.

Im just trying to make sure I understand you right...have the wires come off the radio, to the sub, then off to the rear speakers?

[sdg3205]

Im just trying to make sure I understand you right...have the wires come off the radio, to the sub, then off to the rear speakers?

I think it depends on how many channels you have on your amp.

If it's one channel, you'd need to do this.

This will sum your stereo feeds (both pos and neg) down to mono for use with a mono sub amp.

If it's 2 or 3 channel, you can use the amp's inputs and outputs to drive the rears an sub (I think).

EDIT - Just to clarify, the 470 ohm resistors go on the tip (pos or black with white stripe from BOTH sides on the rears) and the 10K goes on the NEG (black) from both rears.

[Nicholas R]

I have an Alpine amp on my parcel shelf personally. With my current head unit, there are output wires for a subwoofer that run from the head unit to the amp. Then the amp has 2 wires that run to the subwoofer itself.

The previous vehicle I had the amp and subs in was a 98 mustang. In that car, I split off the signal to the rear speakers so that it went both to the rear speakers and to the amp. Then wires went from the amp to the sub.

Obviously the setup does depend on how many channels/inputs/outputs the amp in question has.

[sdg3205]

And an amp with 2 channels of through put will not affect your rear L and R, only use the signal to sum to mono for the sub, which IS driven by the amp.

[sdg3205]

Nicholas,

What were your cutting dimensions for the particle board?

EDIT - including the breather hole and actual sub hole.

[Fox2506]

My Pioneer radio has preamp RCA outputs for subs. BUT, then it has prefabricated speaker wires for 2 subs and a MOSFET amp built in. I was wondering if this is enough to drive a small sub-woofer using those wires without buying a separate amp.

I was also wondering if those sub wires could be substituted for installing some 6x9 speakers, basically making a 6 speaker system with the 6x9's providing the bass.

The manual just doesn't say much about hooking up subs, and I'm half braindead on sound systems..

[Nicholas R]

Nicholas,

What were your cutting dimensions for the particle board?

EDIT - including the breather hole and actual sub hole.

I think the square itself was right around 12x12 and the sub needed right around a 6" hole. Not sure about the breather or the wire ports but I can check later.

Honestly though for the initial cut of the panel I laid my original compartment door on the plywood and traced it with a pencil. For the subwoofer, I went around my house looking for circular things, (tin can tops, bowls, plates, glasses, tape rolls, etc) until I found one that was the size of the circle I needed and traced it. What I ended up using was one of those circular magnetic plates to put bolts in. Was almost exactly 6". The breather hole I just traced the breather, and the wire port I actually measured and made lines with masking tape.

[sdg3205]

Where is the best place to mount the amp for the sub? I'd like it to be completely unseen.

Does it fit behind the sub in the same storage compartment?

[Ashyukun]

Where is the best place to mount the amp for the sub? I'd like it to be completely unseen.

Does it fit behind the sub in the same storage compartment?

That would probably be a bad place to put it... subs generally need a decent amount of air space to work properly, and the amp would be taking up that space in the compartment. Not to mention it would have to be a pretty small amp to fit in there in the first place.

I have the amp for mine mounted (well, sitting :P ) in the driver's side electronics bay above the storage compartment- but I also have a carbed car and as such have removed all the K-jet electronics in that bay that were unnecessary now, and without doing so there would not have been room for the amp.

[sdg3205]

Yeah, its tough to visualize the scale of everything when you're not around the car.

I was thinking perhaps the frunk (front trunk) under the hood release mechanism. I'd have to run more cable, but that doesn't really bother me.

[outatym2001]

Here are pictures of my 8” JL subwoofer I installed several months ago. I can not make another one since I had to drive to other peoples’ places of work to use their power tools to cut the wood and stuff and it took a lot longer than I thought it would.
I added descriptions to the pictures to let you know of the size.
I don’t have the sub hooked up to my mono-block JL amplifier model number JX250/1. I have yet to make a secure platform for the amp. It requires a minimum of 1" air space around it to get rid of heat. The amp weighs six pounds (2.7 kg) and is 11” by 7-1/2” by 2” (27.5 cm by 18.75 cm by 5 cm).
I have another amp which is four channels that will run all the other speakers (two 4x10, two 5-1/4, two 1” tweeters).
I am running two (4 gauge) positive cables directly off the battery and two (4 gauge) negative cables to the frame ground where the existing battery ground connector is.

[TTait]

My Pioneer radio has preamp RCA outputs for subs. BUT, then it has prefabricated speaker wires for 2 subs and a MOSFET amp built in. I was wondering if this is enough to drive a small sub-woofer using those wires without buying a separate amp.

I was also wondering if those sub wires could be substituted for installing some 6x9 speakers, basically making a 6 speaker system with the 6x9's providing the bass.

The manual just doesn't say much about hooking up subs, and I'm half braindead on sound systems..

If you ran 2 speakers for subs, regardless of what they are, you'd probably want to mount them adjacent to each other - you get better performance with the subs working together, not offset from each other.

While 6 x 9's will give you better low end than the stock 4 x 10 units, you generally get smoother low frequency sound out of a spherical, or round speaker.

Once you put two decent speakers side by side then, you're spending more money and taking up more space than a 12" sub, let alone a 10" or 8"...

As the amp has the outputs, it doesn't hurt to try it out. If you don't run it very hot you may not get any appreciable distortion - and if you do, the speakers will still work, you just wasted an hour trying it out before you purchased the separate amp. Give it a try.

Tom

[sdg3205]

Here are pictures of my 8” JL subwoofer I installed several months ago. I can not make another one since I had to drive to other peoples’ places of work to use their power tools to cut the wood and stuff and it took a lot longer than I thought it would.
I added descriptions to the pictures to let you know of the size.
I don’t have the sub hooked up to my mono-block JL amplifier model number JX250/1. I have yet to make a secure platform for the amp. It requires a minimum of 1" air space around it to get rid of heat. The amp weighs six pounds (2.7 kg) and is 11” by 7-1/2” by 2” (27.5 cm by 18.75 cm by 5 cm).
I have another amp which is four channels that will run all the other speakers (two 4x10, two 5-1/4, two 1” tweeters).
I am running two (4 gauge) positive cables directly off the battery and two (4 gauge) negative cables to the frame ground where the existing battery ground connector is.


Why is it that it's recommended to run 2 positive (each with a fuse) and 2 ground cables?

Also, have anyone used a capacitor? Another owner out here says it helps take a lot of strain off our already taxed charging system.

[Ashyukun]

Also, have anyone used a capacitor? Another owner out here says it helps take a lot of strain off our already taxed charging system.
Of the three cars I've had subs in (two using 10" subs with traditional amps, one using a self-contained 8" sub/amp unit) I've never used a capacitor. It certainly can't hurt, but we're generally not running MASSIVE wattage amps and subs that are going to hit the charging system really hard when they're cranked up. Running one of Hervey's uprated alternators, I see more power issues from the A/C and cooling/cabin fans than I do from the amp & sub. If your power system is already maxed out and having issues, you're going to have problems with a sub regardless- but if it's already healthy, for the size we're talking about I don't think it's necessary to worry too much about...

For my part, the sub is there because the stock-size speakers SUCK at low-end response, and while I don't like bass so loud it rattles the stainless panels, I DO like hearing (and somewhat feeling) the low-end, so the sub is usually turned pretty far down and most people wouldn't know it was there were it not (mine is currently in a truck box sitting on the parcel shelf...) so obvious visually.

[sdg3205]

I (almost) finished a successful install today, I'm just waiting on a way to cut the MDF to the appropriate size.

I ended up mounting the amp UNDER the spare tire! It works great. I routed all the wires through the rubber grommet for the hood release latch and through the centre console. I ran the ground to the rad support brackets on the passenger side.

I even managed to route the power cable through the relay compartment so the 60A fuse would be among all the other fuses. The power ties in to the battery cut-off switch so it gets killed with the rest of the car when needed.

Right now the sub is sitting freely behind the stock compartment door but even still the low end is huge. I found with minimal tweaking you get some damned decent results.

For anyone considering the complete amp and speaker upgrade, do it. I kept the Craig deck for originality purposes. Here's my list:

Amp - Pioneer GM-D7500 (http://www.pioneerelectronics.ca/POCEN/Products/Car+Audio+Video/Amplifiers/GM-Series/GM-D7500M). I got it brand new off ebay for $95 bucks.

Sub - Infinity Reference 8" - $60 bucks.

Complete Stinger 800W wiring kit - $55 bucks.

Front Infinity Kappa 3.29 - $54
Rear Infinity Kappa 5.29 - $72

Grand total - $336.00 and well worth it. Doesn't sound like a bunch of people farting in my ears anymore! Sounds awesome, like a modern vehicle.

[dvonk]

For anyone considering the complete amp and speaker upgrade, do it. I kept the Craig deck for originality purposes.

nice! :headbang:

forgive my ignorance... so the original Craig has the power to run the new speakers satisfactorily?

[sdg3205]

nice! :headbang:

forgive my ignorance... so the original Craig has the power to run the new speakers satisfactorily?

Heck no!

The craig still drives the originals, the amp under the spare tire drives the sub.

I stole signal from the front speakers to run to the amp.

[dvonk]

apologies, i shouldve been clearer; i figured the Craig couldnt power the subwoofer (necessitating your installation of the amp), but i was asking if it could power your four new front/rear speakers.

you answered my question anyway. :smile:

glad the sound quality is better with your new setup!

[dvonk]

the DeLorean Mac Mini has a 10” Blaupunkt Overdrive Subwoofer installed in the storage door (http://www.deloreanmacmini.com/Cockpit.html):

http://www.deloreanmacmini.com/Cockpit_files/43630697.jpg

http://www.deloreanmacmini.com/Cockpit_files/43630696.jpg

looks like he installed two locks in the corners to use the space from the one in the center.

[robvanderveer]

Here's what I built this morning..

5050

[Nicholas R]

Here's what I built this morning..

5050
Is that an 8" or a 10"?

[robvanderveer]

Is that an 8" or a 10"?

That is 8", Nicholas.. I have not found time to do the wiring yet, perhaps next weekend.

[sdg3205]

Looks great Rob!

[robvanderveer]

Looks great Rob!

Thank you Dave, I am quite proud of it myself. Only took me 1 hour to get it done really.. Don't worry about the color differences that's the flash doing it's bad business on the different texture.

[Spittybug]

With the original door available as a size template, making a blank to hold a sub woofer is truly a straight forward task. I found the hardest thing was just refitting the lock and the little biscuit type of feet so that it centers itself back in the hole properly.

If there are others out there who don't have the tools/time/patience to build these themselves, I may be persuaded to make them since I have the experience in doing so. Cost would of course depend on woofer desired, but this might make for a nice drop in mod for someone that could otherwise take care of the amplifier hookup. See post #16 for a picture of mine. Like Robvanderveer points out, don't let color fool you with flash. Mine is textured black paint (almost like truck bed liner) and looks very nice.

[robvanderveer]

With the original door available as a size template, making a blank to hold a sub woofer is truly a straight forward task. I found the hardest thing was just refitting the lock and the little biscuit type of feet so that it centers itself back in the hole properly.

That's where I went wrong. I've aligned the sub top-left so it hides nicely behind the seat and not halfway. No it leaves no room for a lock. Perhaps I'll do another this winter, as I have plenty of material left.

[protodelorean]

Like Spittybug, I used an 8" (MTX) and kept the lock mechanism.

http://www.projectdelorean.com/images/Rear_Wall/slides/dcp01632.JPG

[robvanderveer]

... and two (4 gauge) negative cables to the frame ground where the existing battery ground connector is.
Can you point me in the general direction of that ground? I am mounting my amp of the vertical bit of the parcel shelf and perhaps the ECU area has a good ground point?

[Spittybug]

Can you point me in the general direction of that ground? I am mounting my amp of the vertical bit of the parcel shelf and perhaps the ECU area has a good ground point?

You could create a mirror image to how the battery negative is grounded. Drill a hole on the interior wall of the cubby, down low, and pass the ground through it (with a rubber grommet). Get under the car, remove the driver side aluminum shield that protects the trailing arms and attach the ground cable to one of the big bolts by the trailing arm bolts. Just look on the passenger side and you'll see the battery one.

I didn't bother to do that (but may) since all I did was run a ground wire behind the wall to the common post behind the passenger seat.

[jawn101]

Anyone have any suggestions for a small amp that would fit either in the storage compartment or above it in the electrical bay with the ECUs? I don't really want much power, maybe 100 RMS... but it would be a much more convenient place to put the amp with easy access to the remote power on lead, battery, ground, speaker....

I guess heat is a consideration too in that space.

[jerzybondov]

This is the smallest amp I came across and have ended up putting in my car. Not cheap mind!

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?item_id=120464

[jawn101]

This is the smallest amp I came across and have ended up putting in my car. Not cheap mind!

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?item_id=120464

I ended up falling in love with this one: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=595

Also not cheap, but a *perfect* size to go in the storage compartment, and has some advanced thermal management features to help it cope with being in a confined space. Plus it has a real crossover as well as a HPF/LPF, is bridgeable, has a very good power output, and it's a respectable brand.

[Chris4099]

This is the smallest amp I came across and have ended up putting in my car. Not cheap mind!

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?item_id=120464

I've been considering that amp as well for a project like this. Fortunately it's much cheaper at Amazon.com:
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X1-compact-Amplifier/dp/B004T163PW

I assuming it's working well for you?

[jawn101]

I've been considering that amp as well for a project like this. Fortunately it's much cheaper at Amazon.com:
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X1-compact-Amplifier/dp/B004T163PW

I assuming it's working well for you?

The problem I found with that Punch amp is that it's designed for a 1-ohm system. So if you're really going competition grade that's fine - but for more standard installs, it won't have nearly enough power to drive 4-ohm speakers. That was the appeal of the JL to me.

[robvanderveer]

I am actually having a break now, at the process of installing this one:

http://www.alpine-electronics.nl/produkten/product-singleview/pmx-amplifiers/pmx-t320.html
http://www.alpine-electronics.nl/fileadmin/images/MainNavigation/Products/Product_pics/12_Amplifiers/02_VPowerAmplifiers/PMXT320/productpic_PMXT320_01.jpg

It is quite large, but I managed to get it mounted vertically on the rear wall. Not too expensive at €129,- and plenty of power. Also, it is black and matches my Alpine CDE 103-BT pretty well.

[outatym2001]

Can you point me in the general direction of that ground? I am mounting my amp of the vertical bit of the parcel shelf and perhaps the ECU area has a good ground point?

Please see page 5/3/0 of the Parts Manual. See item number 32, Screw M8. The black battery ground cable is connected to that Screw M8 on the passenger side Reinforcing Plate.
That Reinforcing Plate is supporting the end of the Trailing Arm and the Trailing Arm Bolt so if you remove the Screw M8 this will cause the Trailing Arm to drop and you will not be able to reinsert the Screw M8.

What I did first is back the rear end of the DeLorean up onto some ramps.
Then I placed 5” (12.5 cm) of cardboard under the frame and put my floor jack on top of the cardboard.
I then used the floor jack to raise the rear end of the D only a little until the Screw M8 was in a neutral position and I could easily remove it with out causing the Trailing Arm to drop.

This is a good time to clean that battery ground connection while the Screw M8 is out.
I am running two amplifiers so I have two 4 gauge ground cables. I connected one ground cable to one Screw M8 and the other ground cable to other Screw M8.

[robvanderveer]

I ended up using the ground point behind the firewall panel. All i needed to do was to remove the four screws that hold up the luggage net clips.

[jawn101]

I considered using one of the body bolts along the center tunnel, but decided to go straight to the battery/main ground cable. I have Hervey's updated ones and the design of them easily allows for that addition, plus that's the greatest (single, not inclusive of comprehensive buses) ground cable/connection these cars have ever seen.

Plus, it keeps with my ethos of only making fully reversible modifications, and makes one less protruding electrical connection to worry about corroding, etc.

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm not sure why he doesn't advertise it, but this is the setup we use that comes from DMC California. It's a sealed-box enclosure and includes the J&L Sub. Truly a 1-minute installation (remove cubby lid, remove latch from above, hook up wires, insert in cubbyhole). Nice product if you aren't into doing your own carpentry.

This comes from DMC California assembled, carpeted, ready for installation. $250.

516051615162

[jawn101]

I'm not sure why he doesn't advertise it, but this is the setup we use that comes from DMC California. It's a sealed-box enclosure and includes the J&L Sub. Truly a 1-minute installation (remove cubby lid, remove latch from above, hook up wires, insert in cubbyhole). Nice product if you aren't into doing your own carpentry.

This comes from DMC California assembled, carpeted, ready for installation. $250.

516051615162

Wow, that's excellent. Any idea if there is room behind it to hold the amp when it's installed? How deep is that enclosure?

Maybe I should ask DMCCA :)

[DMCMW Dave]

Wow, that's excellent. Any idea if there is room behind it to hold the amp when it's installed? How deep is that enclosure?

Maybe I should ask DMCCA :)

It would have to be a pretty tiny amp, and the Lambda ECU is back there. So I suspect the answer is no.

[jawn101]

It would have to be a pretty tiny amp, and the Lambda ECU is back there. So I suspect the answer is no.

I found the perfect amp for the compartment already: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=595 - Fits into mine along with the speaker and all the wiring, even has room for a tool kit as well (although I don't keep it there). I could mount it vertically to the back of their enclosure and it would be a beautiful thing. I will ask Danny for some measurements!

[kings1527]

I found the perfect amp for the compartment already: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=595 - Fits into mine along with the speaker and all the wiring, even has room for a tool kit as well (although I don't keep it there). I could mount it vertically to the back of their enclosure and it would be a beautiful thing. I will ask Danny for some measurements!

Hi Jon,

I'm interested in this setup too and was wondering if you found out if the DMC CA sub enclosure and the JL amo will all fit in the cubby. Any luck with it? Thanks!

Alex
6575

[jawn101]

Hi Jon,

I'm interested in this setup too and was wondering if you found out if the DMC CA sub enclosure and the JL amo will all fit in the cubby. Any luck with it? Thanks!

Alex
6575

Unfortunately things keep coming up and I haven't bought these parts yet - but according to the measurements I got from Danny and the ones I got from JL's site, it *should* work. I'm no engineer so I won't guarantee it - there may be unidentified interferance from things like the Lambda computer hanging down, or variations in the fiberglass, or who knows what else. But I think it would fit.

I'm also still a touch concerned about heat in the compartment, though the amp is a Class D so it should be safe, in theory.

Maybe DMCCA could send me a free sub to do the development work and testing :lol:

Good luck, Alex... if you try it let us know!

[kings1527]

Unfortunately things keep coming up and I haven't bought these parts yet - but according to the measurements I got from Danny and the ones I got from JL's site, it *should* work. I'm no engineer so I won't guarantee it - there may be unidentified interferance from things like the Lambda computer hanging down, or variations in the fiberglass, or who knows what else. But I think it would fit.

I'm also still a touch concerned about heat in the compartment, though the amp is a Class D so it should be safe, in theory.

Maybe DMCCA could send me a free sub to do the development work and testing :lol:

Good luck, Alex... if you try it let us know!

Thanks Jon. There's a 95% probability that this is the route/setup that I'm going to go with. I'm close to tackling the interior and of course I want to do the stereo and re-wiring at the same time.

I'm actually going to see Danny tomorrow so I'll ask him about the latest and greatest methods of doing the sub, but that enclosure from DMC CA definitely seems like the way to go. Relatively cheap, too, considering all of the fabrication and materials. Let me know if you want me to ask him anything else. I already bought the Kappas for the dash and the 4x10 Kappas for the rears but after re-reading this thread, I think I might go with the 5.25 Kappas instead. The 5.25's with an 8" sub and the dash speakers will get me where I want to be, I'm sure. I really don't want to cut into the rear bulkhead at all and put some 6x9's in the back...I'm trying to keep a stock look.

Just to recap, if all I'm looking to do is go with the Retrosound One head unit, the 3.25" Kappas for the front, the 5.25" or 4x10's for the rear, and an 8" sub, what's the minimum number of channels on a power amplifier that I'd need? I really like the JL amp you mentioned and based on its size, performance, and thermal properties, that one will be very hard to beat and if that'll work with my setup, then I'm looking no further!

Alex
6575

[jawn101]

Thanks Jon. There's a 95% probability that this is the route/setup that I'm going to go with. I'm close to tackling the interior and of course I want to do the stereo and re-wiring at the same time.

I'm actually going to see Danny tomorrow so I'll ask him about the latest and greatest methods of doing the sub, but that enclosure from DMC CA definitely seems like the way to go. Relatively cheap, too, considering all of the fabrication and materials. Let me know if you want me to ask him anything else. I already bought the Kappas for the dash and the 4x10 Kappas for the rears but after re-reading this thread, I think I might go with the 5.25 Kappas instead. The 5.25's with an 8" sub and the dash speakers will get me where I want to be, I'm sure. I really don't want to cut into the rear bulkhead at all and put some 6x9's in the back...I'm trying to keep a stock look.

Just to recap, if all I'm looking to do is go with the Retrosound One head unit, the 3.25" Kappas for the front, the 5.25" or 4x10's for the rear, and an 8" sub, what's the minimum number of channels on a power amplifier that I'd need? I really like the JL amp you mentioned and based on its size, performance, and thermal properties, that one will be very hard to beat and if that'll work with my setup, then I'm looking no further!

Alex
6575

Well, the Retrosound One should drive your 4 normal speakers using the built-in amp. The JL amp would only be used to drive the subwoofer, and you'd connect its inputs to the preamp outputs on the Retrosound unit. So you shouldn't need more than that.

[dmc3130]

Wow, that's excellent. Any idea if there is room behind it to hold the amp when it's installed? How deep is that enclosure?

Maybe I should ask DMCCA :)

Hey Jon,

This is the one I have in my car, DMC CA installed it. I picked a different sub though. I mounted the amp in the truck. I know that You have heard it at the last tech session @ my place.

[cybercusp]

I have the 3.25" and 5.25" Kappa's..still waiting on the DMCCa sub then I can review..the Kappas sound good with my Kenwood head unit..I'm running a 4-channel Alpine amp for the speakers and a JL amp for the sub. The speaker amp definitely helped improve the overall sound.

[jawn101]

Oh for sure I can say it sounds amazing. As Stephen said above I have definitely heard the performance and it's fantastic. Stephen's a rock god from way back and listens to his music way louder than I would, too. :)

Just not sure if the JL amp I picked would fit in the cubby. I don't want to run the wiring all the way to the trunk or mount anything to the tub up there if I can avoid it, I'd rather keep everything nice and tidy in the parcel shelf/rear deck area.

[dmc3130]

Oh for sure I can say it sounds amazing. As Stephen said above I have definitely heard the performance and it's fantastic. Stephen's a rock god from way back and listens to his music way louder than I would, too. :)

Just not sure if the JL amp I picked would fit in the cubby. I don't want to run the wiring all the way to the trunk or mount anything to the tub up there if I can avoid it, I'd rather keep everything nice and tidy in the parcel shelf/rear deck area.



You can check it out in my car if you need. Really easy to take out and have a look.

[kings1527]

Well, the Retrosound One should drive your 4 normal speakers using the built-in amp. The JL amp would only be used to drive the subwoofer, and you'd connect its inputs to the preamp outputs on the Retrosound unit. So you shouldn't need more than that.

Cool...that sounds good. I think I'll probably go with the JL sub and try to get it to fit in the cubby with the sub. And yeah, good idea: I'll see if Danny can pony up a sub for research purposes!


Hey Jon,

This is the one I have in my car, DMC CA installed it. I picked a different sub though. I mounted the amp in the truck. I know that You have heard it at the last tech session @ my place.

Nice set up. How deep does the sub run in the cubby? The dimensions on the JL sub that we're looking at are 6.85" wide by 2.05" high. Is there any way you could measure inside with your setup and see if we could squeeze the amp in there with the sub? Finding that out would be huge!


I have the 3.25" and 5.25" Kappa's..still waiting on the DMCCa sub then I can review..the Kappas sound good with my Kenwood head unit..I'm running a 4-channel Alpine amp for the speakers and a JL amp for the sub. The speaker amp definitely helped improve the overall sound.

Nice! Where did you end up mounting everything. I'm like Jon; I'm trying to keep the parcel shelf clean.


Oh for sure I can say it sounds amazing. As Stephen said above I have definitely heard the performance and it's fantastic. Stephen's a rock god from way back and listens to his music way louder than I would, too. :)

Just not sure if the JL amp I picked would fit in the cubby. I don't want to run the wiring all the way to the trunk or mount anything to the tub up there if I can avoid it, I'd rather keep everything nice and tidy in the parcel shelf/rear deck area.

+1 Jon. I'll do a little more research and see if I can find an even smaller amp that might fit in the cubby. I'd love to see pics and dimensions of the DMC CA sub, particularly the depth of the sub enclosure itself!

Thanks guys!

Alex
6575

[kings1527]

Take a look at the pics of the unit from Dave from DMCMW

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2629-CA-DMC-Subwoofer-question

It looks really low-profile and I'm wondering if it's at all possible to mount the amp to the rear of the sub itself? The depth of the amp is just over 2".

I'm thinking another option might be to mount the amp to the far rear wall of the cubby. I'll have to take another look at mine when I get home to see if something like that would work.

Or maybe there's a very small mono amp available to only power the sub since that's really the only reason why you'll need an amp in a basic setup.

And one more question on that note: is there a benefit to making the sound in the system better by using the amp to drive all of the speakers AND the sub rather than using the head unit to power the speakers? If I push more power through the speakers with a power amp, is that better than the head unit's amp?

There's gotta be a way to make this work and keeping it all tucked in the cubby!

Thanks!

Alex
6575

[cybercusp]

1477914780 1478114782
Here are some shots of the JL sub amp installed in the battery compartment, and the Alpine amp, powering all four Kappas, tucked neatly out of sight under the rear deck.

[kings1527]

1477914780 1478114782
Here are some shots of the JL sub amp installed in the battery compartment, and the Alpine amp, powering all four Kappas, tucked neatly out of sight under the rear deck.

Thanks for those pics, your setup looks great. That gives me some ideas for sure.

The other thing I was thinking of, for those of us looking to have a stock look", is to go along the rear bulkhead, between the engine compartment and passenger compartment. There's about a good 4" of width which would be plenty to put an amp in there.

Alex
6575

[FABombjoy]

The other thing I was thinking of, for those of us looking to have a stock look", is to go along the rear bulkhead, between the engine compartment and passenger compartment. There's about a good 4" of width which would be plenty to put an amp in there.
This is what I did. It's been working fine since 2006 and is a great use of the space.

[dmc3130]

Take a look at the pics of the unit from Dave from DMCMW

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2629-CA-DMC-Subwoofer-question

It looks really low-profile and I'm wondering if it's at all possible to mount the amp to the rear of the sub itself? The depth of the amp is just over 2".

I'm thinking another option might be to mount the amp to the far rear wall of the cubby. I'll have to take another look at mine when I get home to see if something like that would work.

Or maybe there's a very small mono amp available to only power the sub since that's really the only reason why you'll need an amp in a basic setup.

And one more question on that note: is there a benefit to making the sound in the system better by using the amp to drive all of the speakers AND the sub rather than using the head unit to power the speakers? If I push more power through the speakers with a power amp, is that better than the head unit's amp?

There's gotta be a way to make this work and keeping it all tucked in the cubby!

Thanks!

Alex
6575


In my set up, the amp only drives the Sub. My head unit can manipulate the frequencies that go to all the speakers (in pairs). I.E. Highs to the front pair, mids to the rears, and lows (120hz and lower to the sub. By doing that your head unit will definitely have the power to drive the fronts and the rears since it takes less power to produce the mids and highs (most of the power will be needed to drive the lower fequencies to get the same volume) Hope this helps.

[cybercusp]

14882
Sub installed and it sounds great. Really adds to the wall of sound. The JL amp drives it just fine..no overheating or clipping. The Kenwood head, KDC-bt948hd, allows for fine tuning the sub and multiple controls over equalization and cross-over points which fine tunes the whole set-up. I think the Kenwood really makes the difference as there is so much control over the spatial orientation of the speakers and the signal processing. Sounds phenomenal. And other than the sub behind the seat it looks completely stock, save for the head unit. I would prefer to have a grille over the speaker-not comfortable with having an unprotected speaker..thoughts?

[Totally 80s]

If this seat is all the way back does the seat rug against the speaker? I can't tell but it looks like it might.

[Spittybug]

Like this?

[cybercusp]

Like this?

That's it.

The seat doesn't rub as far as I can tell.

[kings1527]

14882
Sub installed and it sounds great. Really adds to the wall of sound. The JL amp drives it just fine..no overheating or clipping. The Kenwood head, KDC-bt948hd, allows for fine tuning the sub and multiple controls over equalization and cross-over points which fine tunes the whole set-up. I think the Kenwood really makes the difference as there is so much control over the spatial orientation of the speakers and the signal processing. Sounds phenomenal. And other than the sub behind the seat it looks completely stock, save for the head unit. I would prefer to have a grille over the speaker-not comfortable with having an unprotected speaker..thoughts?

Mike,
Very nice setup there! I like how it came out. I hear what you're saying about having a grill over it. I don't think it's a major issue but if you oculd do something like Owen's setup (and the lock on the cabinet looks cool, too), then I'd go for that. In fact, that's exactly what I'm going to do. So here's my idea for my system, with a question or two to go along with it:

1) DMC CA sub with Owen's grill

2) Infinity Kappa 5.25 in the rears and 3.5" in the dash

3) JL XD700 5 Channel amp to power everything. I'm going to put it underneath the rear window in that space in the bulkhead and you'll never see it. That should be plenty of room and DMC CA has done several installs that way. It's pricey but I'm willing to splurge: http://www.jlaudio.com/xd700-5-car-audio-xd-amplifiers-98264

I don't see any reason to not go with a 5-channel? Two channels for the rears, two channels for the dash, and one for the sub.

4) Retrosound model one head unit. I want to keep that stock-look and I like the head. But are there any limitations to running the signals to the amplifier? Do I just run the wires from the speaker outputs on the head to the speaker inputs on the amp? But the head doesn't have a sub output and the amp has a sub input. Do I just ignore the sub input and wire the sub through the sub output on the amp? If I'll be REALLY limited on flexibility to adjust things on that head, then I'm open to finding a more modern looking head unit. But I'd rather not.

5) Since I'm going for smaller speakers and a decent but not outstanding head unit, I'm going to have to tighten up the cab of the car and insulate it from exterior road noise. I'm going to go with Damplifier Pro (instead of Duramat, but similar stuff) http://store.secondskinaudio.com/b-stock-bulk-pack/ for the layer against the fiberglass and Luxury Liner Pro as a closed cell sound absorber http://store.secondskinaudio.com/luxury-liner-pro-36-sq-ft-4-sheets/ Why there's a picture of Indiana Jones on their website to sell sound insulating devices, I have no idea. After that, I'll go with Hervey's rubber damper set for the exterior of the "sandwich". http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/rubber-insulation-set.jpg

So, Damplifier Pro (inside), Luxury Liner Pro (middle), and Hervey's rubber pads (outside). I think that'll quiet things down a lot inside the cab and really get the most out of the speakers and head unit, particularly while coupled with the power amp. Let me know if anyone has any thoughts on all that.


Like this?

Awesome finishing touch, Owen. Where can I get one of those?


Alex
6575

[dmc3130]

Mike,
Very nice setup there! I like how it came out. I hear what you're saying about having a grill over it. I don't think it's a major issue but if you oculd do something like Owen's setup (and the lock on the cabinet looks cool, too), then I'd go for that. In fact, that's exactly what I'm going to do. So here's my idea for my system, with a question or two to go along with it:

1) DMC CA sub with Owen's grill

2) Infinity Kappa 5.25 in the rears and 3.5" in the dash

3) JL XD700 5 Channel amp to power everything. I'm going to put it underneath the rear window in that space in the bulkhead and you'll never see it. That should be plenty of room and DMC CA has done several installs that way. It's pricey but I'm willing to splurge: http://www.jlaudio.com/xd700-5-car-audio-xd-amplifiers-98264

I don't see any reason to not go with a 5-channel? Two channels for the rears, two channels for the dash, and one for the sub.

4) Retrosound model one head unit. I want to keep that stock-look and I like the head. But are there any limitations to running the signals to the amplifier? Do I just run the wires from the speaker outputs on the head to the speaker inputs on the amp? But the head doesn't have a sub output and the amp has a sub input. Do I just ignore the sub input and wire the sub through the sub output on the amp? If I'll be REALLY limited on flexibility to adjust things on that head, then I'm open to finding a more modern looking head unit. But I'd rather not.

5) Since I'm going for smaller speakers and a decent but not outstanding head unit, I'm going to have to tighten up the cab of the car and insulate it from exterior road noise. I'm going to go with Damplifier Pro (instead of Duramat, but similar stuff) http://store.secondskinaudio.com/b-stock-bulk-pack/ for the layer against the fiberglass and Luxury Liner Pro as a closed cell sound absorber http://store.secondskinaudio.com/luxury-liner-pro-36-sq-ft-4-sheets/ Why there's a picture of Indiana Jones on their website to sell sound insulating devices, I have no idea. After that, I'll go with Hervey's rubber damper set for the exterior of the "sandwich". http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/rubber-insulation-set.jpg

So, Damplifier Pro (inside), Luxury Liner Pro (middle), and Hervey's rubber pads (outside). I think that'll quiet things down a lot inside the cab and really get the most out of the speakers and head unit, particularly while coupled with the power amp. Let me know if anyone has any thoughts on all that.



Awesome finishing touch, Owen. Where can I get one of those?


Alex
6575


Just a suggestion, if your head unit does not have a frequency selection for each pari of speakers you'll need to put in line capacitors to block out the selected ranges, That way you wont be sending the lower tones to the smaller front speakers that aren't designed to handle it. Same goes for the rears, but you can cap them off a little lower. Then your amp may have a selection for the 5th channel for your sub. 120hz or 250hz and lower. Then your sub doesn't try to reproduce mids and highs.

[kings1527]

Just a suggestion, if your head unit does not have a frequency selection for each pari of speakers you'll need to put in line capacitors to block out the selected ranges, That way you wont be sending the lower tones to the smaller front speakers that aren't designed to handle it. Same goes for the rears, but you can cap them off a little lower. Then your amp may have a selection for the 5th channel for your sub. 120hz or 250hz and lower. Then your sub doesn't try to reproduce mids and highs.

Thanks for that. I had no idea about all that!

Alex
6575

[dmc3130]

Thanks for that. I had no idea about all that!

Alex
6575

No problem, it's a simple thing to do when your doing all the other wiring. Ask a good car audio guy in your area and he/she can point you in the right direction for the right in line capacitor

[refugeefromcalif]

The search function failed me. (Or, I didn't know the Right question to begin with)...

Anyroad, I love the idea of adding an 8" sub to the storage compartment and running it through a single channel Sub amp.

(Class D best)?

My question is, Which model numbers on one, (or both), are you all using?

My new radio only has outputs for 4 channels so, I'll have to research again how to add an amp for the sub.

George

[Spittybug]

Awesome finishing touch, Owen. Where can I get one of those?
Alex
6575

Mine came with the JL sub woofer when I bought it ~2007 time frame. Great sounding speaker, but just last year I had to replace the rolled foam edge since it had disintegrated. Not hard to do, just a butyl rubber glue on kit I bought online. Worked great and sounds as good as new. I don't have my amp in the cubby, it's an Alpine that's mounted on my back wall.

[Starglider]

Inspired by this thread, I will be attempting to fit an Audiobahn AW1004J into the cubbyhole door;

http://www.12voltnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/AW1004J.png

low profile driver so some airspace behind, but should probably try and squeeze a port or two in as well.

[kings1527]

Mine came with the JL sub woofer when I bought it ~2007 time frame. Great sounding speaker, but just last year I had to replace the rolled foam edge since it had disintegrated. Not hard to do, just a butyl rubber glue on kit I bought online. Worked great and sounds as good as new. I don't have my amp in the cubby, it's an Alpine that's mounted on my back wall.

Gotcha. I'm going to end up probably doing the same as you with the amp; hidden behind the back wall. But I'm probably not going to go with the Retrosound Model One head. It's just not a going to be a good fit with what I want to do with my speakers, sub, and amp.

I'm guessing the grill came with your sub? That's a nice finishing touch compared to leaving it bare, like how you get it from DMC CA.

Alex
6575

[kings1527]

Inspired by this thread, I will be attempting to fit an Audiobahn AW1004J into the cubbyhole door;

http://www.12voltnews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/AW1004J.png

low profile driver so some airspace behind, but should probably try and squeeze a port or two in as well.

I love the look and the low profile, but 10"? Wow...that's going to be a big boom in that car! I wish they made an 8". I think I'm still going to go with the JL.

Now I'm searching for the perfect high-performance head unit that still has a retro or basic look to it. No bright LCD screen showing video or anything like that; just high performance that has iPod/iPhone connectivity and doesn't stand out too much.

Alex
6575

[dmc3130]

Gotcha. I'm going to end up probably doing the same as you with the amp; hidden behind the back wall. But I'm probably not going to go with the Retrosound Model One head. It's just not a going to be a good fit with what I want to do with my speakers, sub, and amp.

I'm guessing the grill came with your sub? That's a nice finishing touch compared to leaving it bare, like how you get it from DMC CA.

Alex
6575

Try this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Inch-Universal-Silver-Tone-Metal-Car-Speaker-Grill-Cover-Guard-/160906329363?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item2576c3bd13


That would look sweet!!!!!!!

[cybercusp]

the model numbers for the sub-amp

http://www.jlaudio.com/xd300-1-car-audio-xd-amplifiers-98266

and for the alpine

http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ktp-445u/

I've got 10+ hrs on this setup and the more I listen to it the more I like it. The 8" sub packs a good punch, and talking with Danny from DMCCa he says they're installing 8" subs almost exclusively as the 10" can be overwhelming for the cabin. I might consider going with a JL 4-channel amp for the speakers if I make any changes in the future, but the wattage is adequate for my listening levels, which are pretty loud.

[jawn101]

the model numbers for the sub-amp

http://www.jlaudio.com/xd300-1-car-audio-xd-amplifiers-98266

and for the alpine

http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ktp-445u/

I've got 10+ hrs on this setup and the more I listen to it the more I like it. The 8" sub packs a good punch, and talking with Danny from DMCCa he says they're installing 8" subs almost exclusively as the 10" can be overwhelming for the cabin. I might consider going with a JL 4-channel amp for the speakers if I make any changes in the future, but the wattage is adequate for my listening levels, which are pretty loud.

Michael - any input to my theory that you should be able to screw the JL XD300 to the back of the DMC-CA sub box and still have it all fit inside the cubby? If I'm remembering correctly you're the first one on here to be using both of those parts.

[cybercusp]

Michael - any input to my theory that you should be able to screw the JL XD300 to the back of the DMC-CA sub box and still have it all fit inside the cubby? If I'm remembering correctly you're the first one on here to be using both of those parts.

I think it would be too tight a fit. From what I could tell the K-jet control would require the amp to be placed forward of it, which will then bump it into the back of the sub. The battery compartment install was a better bet once I had the amp in hand and physically trial fit it into both compartments. I'm running the Optima yellowtop so I felt better about having a sealed battery near the amp otherwise I would have felt more nervous about battery acid spillage/fumes damaging the amp. I've checked several times and so far the amp seems happy in there, not that it's smiling and waving at me every time i look. This is a killer sound set up though. I find myself just listening to music even when I'm not in the mood just because it sounds so damn good.

[john 05141]

To Nick,

I see you have a radio with a 7 inch fold out screen.
3 questions for you...

1- Does the screen open completely, or is the edge above the airvents in its way?
2- Is the screen not too bright (the car is pretty dark inside) driving at night? can you dim the screen?
3- Are the airvents still able to blow when the screen is open? I see there is a small gap. I can immage either extreme temp is not good for the screen.

Thanks,
Jan

[Chris4099]

I finally installed the DMC-CA subwoofer along with the amp I linked to in post 59. So far so good! The amp is really small and fits under the Lambda controller, so I was able to have everything contained within the cubby hole! Check it out:

15846

Despite the small size and output, it's still enough to drive the subwoofer. However, I would recommend getting the extra remote boost controller as the amp isn't very loud (seems to be a common complaint that RF kept the amplification down unless you get the controller to "unlock" it). I haven't gone on any long drives yet, so I'm not sure how the amp's temperature will hold up. It's supposed to be very efficient, so hopefully that won't be a problem.

For now I'm very happy. Not as good as a 10-12" sub with a larger enclosure, but it will do. And considering I don't have to sacrifice any luggage space, I consider this to be a good compromise.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Is there a such thing as a self-powered 8" subwoofer that will fit in the cubby door compartment?
Otherwise, what would you all recommend if a separate amp is required to work with a 8" subwoofer, and what subwoofer and amp combo do you all recommend? I have a JVC head unit and infinity speakers. I don't need anything crazy, just want a little more bass.
THanks in advance!

[dmruschell]

Is there a such thing as a self-powered 8" subwoofer that will fit in the cubby door compartment?
Otherwise, what would you all recommend if a separate amp is required to work with a 8" subwoofer, and what subwoofer and amp combo do you all recommend? I have a JVC head unit and infinity speakers. I don't need anything crazy, just want a little more bass.
THanks in advance!

This sub: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GveYXbWMps6/p_2064CWS82/Kicker-40CWS82.html

This amp: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRVM250/Alpine-MRV-M250.html

I've installed this setup in 2 DeLoreans that are owned by close friends, and both have been happy with it. I think they even sound better than the subs in my DeLoreans. I'd recommend getting the DMC-CA box, and selling the included speaker (or just make your own box off of the measurements mentioned in the "Choices of Speakers" thread on page ~26 I think). You'll probably have to add bass blockers (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127BB150A2/Bass-Blockers-150-Hz-cut-off.html) to your other speakers if your head unit doesn't have a high pass filter built in.

[cybercusp]

When I ordered the DMC-CA sub I had them install the JL speaker I specified as found in Crutchfield. DMC simply charged me a fair corresponding upgrade price.

[TTait]

This sub: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GveYXbWMps6/p_2064CWS82/Kicker-40CWS82.html

This amp: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRVM250/Alpine-MRV-M250.html

I've installed this setup in 2 DeLoreans that are owned by close friends, and both have been happy with it. I think they even sound better than the subs in my DeLoreans. I'd recommend getting the DMC-CA box, and selling the included speaker (or just make your own box off of the measurements mentioned in the "Choices of Speakers" thread on page ~26 I think). You'll probably have to add bass blockers (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127BB150A2/Bass-Blockers-150-Hz-cut-off.html) to your other speakers if your head unit doesn't have a high pass filter built in.

Sweet find on the amp. It's hard to tell sometimes if a mini amp like that will work okay - very cool to see one this small with a bona fide endorsement. Thanks man!

[dmruschell]

Sweet find on the amp. It's hard to tell sometimes if a mini amp like that will work okay - very cool to see one this small with a bona fide endorsement. Thanks man!

It will work mounted behind the parcel shelf backing board, provided the foam is removed where the amp will sit. It's easy to run a wire from the battery to there, and a ground point is easily accessible just above the relay compartment. It's also very easy to run speaker wire to the sub from there.

I'm sure other amps will work, but I've found this amp to work well with the 2-ohm sub. They're both available more cheaply on ebay, but crutchfield has always given good customer service.

[Nicholas R]

This sub: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GveYXbWMps6/p_2064CWS82/Kicker-40CWS82.html

This amp: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRVM250/Alpine-MRV-M250.html

I've installed this setup in 2 DeLoreans that are owned by close friends, and both have been happy with it. I think they even sound better than the subs in my DeLoreans. I'd recommend getting the DMC-CA box, and selling the included speaker (or just make your own box off of the measurements mentioned in the "Choices of Speakers" thread on page ~26 I think). You'll probably have to add bass blockers (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127BB150A2/Bass-Blockers-150-Hz-cut-off.html) to your other speakers if your head unit doesn't have a high pass filter built in.

I agree, that's a great line of subs.

I actually replaced the original sub that this thread shows 2 years ago with this sub:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RAEkhabulzY/T9AzMAOx95I/AAAAAAAAA64/bVUqv5Lk0Rw/s1600/Automatic+handle+019.jpg