Door Locks

[GS450-Junkie]

Dumb question....but how are the door locks supposed to work and what parts are supposed to be where? I've owned my car for many years now and have always locked and unlocked each door from the outside. It's all I've ever known. My car has no door lock solenoids, no controllers, no actuators, no wiring, no relays, etc. for any of this. It was removed before I got it. I have been to several shows and open houses and always forget to ask another owner to demonstrate what I am indeed missing. I really like the idea of a remote lock system, but I'm sure I would need all of or most of those components that are not in my car. I want remote locks, but don't want to spend a $1,000 to get it. I've looked at Toby's page and he has several options to choose from as does DMC, but it's kind of confusing for me.

[ccurzio]

Without immediate access to photos I can't easily describe the exact functionality placement but from a high-level standpoint I can say this: there is a metal rod that connects to the door lock, and turning the lock moves the rod back and forth. The power lock component in the door (be it the solenoid or an actuator) pushes the rod one way when power is applied, and pulls it back when power is removed.

I have no idea if this is at all helpful since it's super general but maybe this (along with peeking at the exploded views) gives you a starting point?

[Bitsyncmaster]

The stock power locks make both doors do what one door does. Unlock either side with key or inside and the other door will do the same. They also power the movement with a small movement of the door key or door lock button.

One safety feature is the door will unlock if the "crash" sensor trips.

To use a remote option you would need to get the stock locks working first before adding the new parts for remote.

[refugeefromcalif]

The stock power locks make both doors do what one door does. Unlock either side with key or inside and the other door will do the same. They also power the movement with a small movement of the door key or door lock button.
To use a remote option you would need to get the stock locks working first before adding the new parts for remote.

This is an issue that I've had with my car for around a year now. Using the key on either outside door, they both unlock Or lock. Using the door lock buttons inside they both react as they should.
Now when I bought the car from DMCFlorida, (I'm NOT blaming DMCF here), I had them install an alarm/keyless entry system. It worked fine for the first 6 months. I then shipped the car back to them for some warranty items and while it was there I had them install a Wings-A-Loft system. (While I haven't seen them, Toby assured that he'd sent his accuators along with the kit).
It worked Great for a few months then I started having problems with the remote not opening both doors, (Passenger door Won't unlock with the remote), but works fine the normal ways.
I was able to get things working by playing with the Scotch-Locs that were installed for the Wings-A-Loft wiring at first. Now it's No Go any time.

Just another detail that I have to work on.

George

EDIT: Mods, can this thread be in the General Discussion Area?
There seem to be a Lot like this lately and I just about miss them.

[Chris 16409]

I was able to get things working by playing with the Scotch-Locs that were installed for the Wings-A-Loft wiring at first. Now it's No Go any time.

When ever I work with electrical system I always try to solder and shrink-wrap everything! I only use those "Scotch-Locks" as a last result where I can't fit a soldering iron in the area, or where it would not be practical to solder. Then I use silicone tape to wrap the connection so the wires are held firmly in place. I just don't trust these type of connectors (especially butt-splicers) for mission critical wiring. Although, Dave M. says he can get a good crimp if he uses un-insulated butt-splicers. However you need to have a nice crimper.

[Josh]

When ever I work with electrical system I always try to solder and shrink-wrap everything! I only use those "Scotch-Locks" as a last result where I can't fit a soldering iron in the area, or where it would not be practical to solder. Then I use silicone tape to wrap the connection so the wires are held firmly in place. I just don't trust these type of connectors (especially butt-splicers) for mission critical wiring. Although, Dave M. says he can get a good crimp if he uses un-insulated butt-splicers. However you need to have a nice crimper.

x2!!

[Mark D]

I was planning on pulling my door panels to get a look at my craptastic window motors that are on the way out... If you're wanting to get a look inside to see what what should be there for the locking system vs. what you've got let me know. I've got an hour commute each way to work every day so a half hour trip up to Wausau isn't a big deal. :smile:

[GS450-Junkie]

I was planning on pulling my door panels to get a look at my craptastic window motors that are on the way out... If you're wanting to get a look inside to see what what should be there for the locking system vs. what you've got let me know. I've got an hour commute each way to work every day so a half hour trip up to Wausau isn't a big deal. :smile:

Funny you mentioned new window motors...I just order a new set about fifteen minutes ago. (:0