Just got my project DeLorean....

[PeterBiggerstaff]

Hi All,

I posted a while back saying I was on the hunt for a 'project' DeLorean under $15,000 for importation to New Zealand, and she just arrived on Friday!

Vin# 10985 was on the Beverly Hills Car Club website for $14k, I managed to get them down to $13K. They were very good to deal with, as were my shipping company Extreme Global.

Rather than go though the whole list of all the issues, I have put a video up here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQc8XTraFNY

As you can see she's going to be a huge project, but if Dave Stragand can build Project Vixen out of all those parts, I think I can get 10985 looking fairly decent with enough time and money!

[DMC-81]

Congratulations! Welcome to ownership. The car looks like a good project.

[Rich_NYS]

Congratulations....now get to work! -LOL :cheers:

IMO, I think what you'll like about this project is that most of the issues will refelect a noticeable difference when sorted and it'll keep you motivated. A lot of the things I fixed on my car is "stuff you can't see," I got the most satisfaction with the things that were most noticeable.


How does the frame look?

Enjoy! :thumbup2:

[PeterBiggerstaff]

Thanks Rich!

Yeah, I'm really looking forward to doing the interior, I think this will be the easiest and most rewarding part, I will be on the hunt for a replacement binnacle though, and I know those are as rare as hens teeth..

From what I could tell from the original photos, the frame is in good condition, with just a bit of surface rust at the front. I need to get the car on a hoist so I can see for myself and get that rust killed.

[DMC5180]

Congratulations on your project.

One correction through. When you said here's where the transmission fluid goes, is actually your brake fluid reservoir/ master cylinder. Clutch fluid goes in the reservoir under the round rubber cover next to the fuel cap. The transmission is filled with gear oil via a pipe plug half way up the RH side of the transmission case.

[Trstno1]

Congratulations on your project.

One correction through. When you said here's where the transmission fluid goes, is actually your brake fluid reservoir/ master cylinder. Clutch fluid goes in the reservoir under the round rubber cover next to the fuel cap. The transmission is filled with gear oil via a pipe plug half way up the RH side of the transmission case.

Congrats on the new car!! Very exciting. Let us know how the restoring goes. Great video.

[ALEXAKOS]

Congrats on the arrival and enjoy the resto cause you have a loooong way;)

The Beverly Hills car club usually offered overpriced project cars. The one you got seems to be his best condition yet delorean. All others were a real mess:(

Water isn't coming through the doors. Your roof is corroded and needs replacement.
Here is a nice stainless one.
http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=168003

It all comes down to how your frame is. And by the looks of that top, I don't think it will look too good.

I would say you are looking at an approximate 15k at least for it to be in a fair running mode. But we all know we don't settle for fair. We want the best for our babes so make that a 20k with all your effort ofcourse. Let the games begin.

[Nicholas R]

Water isn't coming through the doors. Your roof is corroded and needs replacement.
Here is a nice stainless one.
http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=168003


Be sure to thoroughly inspect this area and be aware of all your options before deciding to actually replace this. No one ever estimates how truly difficult these are to replace. It is by far one of the most difficult parts on the car to replace.

[Patrick C]

No one ever estimates how truly difficult these are to replace. It is by far one of the most difficult parts on the car to replace.

Agreed 500%

[PeterBiggerstaff]

thanks for the feedback guys..

The windscreen needs replaced, so it will be interesting to see what we find when its out.. A mate of mine had substantial rust in that area, which I'm expecting too.

I have been thinking about the frame, from the photos it looks like therr is some surface rust on the front right, but apart from that it looks OK. I cant get her on a hoist until she is mobile. I can see the rear part of the frame through the engine bay and it's spotless. (had to be steam cleaned for entry).

The wiring is a hell of a mess, it looks like some amateur mechanic has butchered most if the wiring in the engine bay. The main red lead from the battery has been cut in two, and is held together with duct tape!

she is holding oil and water though.. I'm going to top the oil up (wont bother changing it until I know if I need to strip the engine or not), replace that main lead and see if she'll crank. I'm expecting the fuel pump not to work, again the wires all seem to be baked and brittle.

[NightFlyer]

I'm going to top the oil up (wont bother changing it until I know if I need to strip the engine or not), replace that main lead and see if she'll crank. I'm expecting the fuel pump not to work, again the wires all seem to be baked and brittle.

Not a good place to start IMHO. If the fuel pump does work, and if the tank is full of crap/crud, then you'll be pushing all that crap/crud into other fuel system components, and possibly damaging them.

Besides, you already know that the engine turns by hand, thus the only reason to attempt to crank it now is confirm whether the starter motor and circuit are functional, which I personally wouldn't worry about until you have the tank drained, assessed, cleaned, and refilled with good/fresh fuel. You'll also want to replace any in-tank components that are bad.

If the fuel in the tank is really bad, then your next step would be to change the fuel filter and accumulator.

After that, you'd want to pull the injectors, put them in jars, jump the RPM relay (or apply 12V to the fuel pump so it circulates) and assess the state/condition of the FD/injectors, as well as baseline the CO/AFR setting on the mixture unit if it appears to be significantly off.

Once you've done all that, then I'd move onto to trying to crank it and get the engine started.

Start at the tank - get that situated first. Then work your way towards cranking it over and getting it started. You'll be glad you did.

Best luck :thumbup:

[PeterBiggerstaff]

Thanks NightFlyer,

The tank is bone dry, I was going to try starting her using a fuel can, rather than the tank, but I think you may have the right idea, start at the fuel tank and work my way back.

[PeterBiggerstaff]

After checking the parts manuals (I *love* those.. they have been so helpful already) It looks like the bad wiring is on the fuel gauge tube, not the pump itself, so I will test the pump.

Do you have any recommendations for cleaning out the tank? I can have a search on the forum to see if there is any advice, just bearing in mind I don't have access to a hoist yet, only a jack.

[Citizen]

Do you have any recommendations for cleaning out the tank? I can have a search on the forum to see if there is any advice, just bearing in mind I don't have access to a hoist yet, only a jack.

One great thing about our cars is that you don't need a hoist to clean out the fuel tank. It can be accessed from the top, without even jacking up the car. I was able to drain my tank out bone dry, then clean it, all from the opening for the fuel pump and gauge sender unit. Got it so clean you could eat out of it, before putting in the new DMC-H combo-unit. Replaced the fuel filter too. That was about a year ago, and everything still works great. And you'd be surprised how accurate the new sender is too.

Thomas

...

[NightFlyer]

After checking the parts manuals (I *love* those.. they have been so helpful already) It looks like the bad wiring is on the fuel gauge tube, not the pump itself, so I will test the pump.

Do you have any recommendations for cleaning out the tank? I can have a search on the forum to see if there is any advice, just bearing in mind I don't have access to a hoist yet, only a jack.

Pull the pump and sender. Pull out the baffle. Dump about a gallon of lacquer thinner into the tank. Use a long handled toilet brush and scrub the lacquer thinner all around the tank. Block off the pump and sender holes so that it doesn't all evaporate. Let it sit for a few days. After a few days, come back and siphon as much of the remaining lacquer thinner out of the tank as you can. Then stuff the tank full of old crumpled up newspapers. After allowing it to sit for a day or two, pull all the newspapers out of the tank. Then, using a lint free rag/cloth wetted with lacquer thinner, wipe the tank as good as you can. Finally, vacuum the inside surfaces of the tank with a good shop vac.

To do all this, you'll need to be positioned in the luggage compartment. It's also nice to have plenty of light so that you can see what you're doing.

You could also drop the tank, and clean it outside the car, but I honestly don't see any reason to do that at this point. Usually if you drop the tank, you'll have to replace all the tank mounting foam. IMHO, why incur an expense if don't have to / unless absolutely necessary.

But that's up to you to decide.

You can see a few pics of when I cleaned out the tank on #1798 over at DMCToday.com (you'll have to register an account to see the pics):

http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.php?174-Awakening-1798-From-A-10-Year-Slumber

Best luck :)

[PeterBiggerstaff]

Excellent, Thanks heaps for that.

I'll get started on that this weekend. :thankyou:

[Domi]

Congratulation on your purchase!
Good luck for the next part ;)

[Rich]

Additional to this good info in Posts #11-15 about the tank - and not cranking the engine til your fuel system checks out - you can reference this How-To thread: LINK:How-to-clean-out-fuel-tank-and-flush-fuel-system-BEFORE-you-try-to-start-the-car (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?637-How-to-clean-out-fuel-tank-and-flush-fuel-system-BEFORE-you-try-to-start-the-car)

Welcome to D. ownership.

[Rich_NYS]

One great thing about our cars is that you don't need a hoist to clean out the fuel tank. It can be accessed from the top, without even jacking up the car.

Thomas

...

LOL...I was just about to post the same thing.

Something good for inspection is a digital camera with a flash; you can reach in, take pics, and view the inside of the tank that way.

Here's a few I took looking down into mine when I first got it:

30557

30558

[DMCMW Dave]

....... Dump about a gallon of lacquer thinner ........

If the bottom is coated with black gunk, acetone is better (stronger).

[SIMid]

Good luck Peter!!

This is going to be test for you to get this car back to life! Don't give up!! :)

[ALEXAKOS]

My tank looked clean but only to realize it was not the bottom I was looking at, but the slump tar that covered the tank.

Got it cleaned easily by filling a gallon of fresh gas, and then scraped the bottom clean first with a flat tool and then with some cloths.

http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/null_zpsbb367bee.jpg (http://s821.photobucket.com/user/alex-akos/media/delo%20resto/null_zpsbb367bee.jpg.html)

A view from my tank after a few cleaning strokes
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/null_zpsc37acdb2.jpg (http://s821.photobucket.com/user/alex-akos/media/delo%20resto/null_zpsc37acdb2.jpg.html)

That was a tank of 20+ years immobility.

[PeterBiggerstaff]

Thanks for the advice guys, very much appreciated.

Simon, this car has been my dream since I was 6... I've put everything I am into getting the cash together for her, nothing could make me give up! If I have to replace every single component, panel, nut and bolt I will! :)

[chris williams]

As others have wrote, get the tank cleaned out and start from there. Once you have got that all cleaned up and power to the pump then disconnect the fuel line to the metering head and pump fresh petrol to the metering head whilst the fuel line is disconnected. In the past I have connected this line to the return to the pump and pumped fresh petrol back to the tank as well (clearly discarding it as it came down the return line to the tank) This has worked for me on several occasions now. Well worth video to watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vCAG2IUb3E
Chris

[Mark D]

Congrats on the purchase and I hope you have lots of fun working on it! :)

[Dangermouse]

Glad to see that you have finally got the car of your dreams Peter. Sure, you have a long road ahead, and no doubt we will be see a bit of you on here, but good luck.

A suggestion is to just give the interior an initial couple hundred dollar make-over and then leave it; Get a couple of cheap car seat covers, a dash mat and take the carpets out and give them a wash.

Then get the mechanical stuff sorted out first so you can go for a drive and get a bit of an adrenaline bump from that.

[PeterBiggerstaff]

Sorry to bump an aging thread, but I am really struggling to find Lacquer Thinners in New Zealand.. I can't get Seafoam or Chemtool either... I can get acrylic, enamel and general purpose thinners, would any of these do? I don't want to melt the plastic!

[DMCMW Dave]

Sorry to bump an aging thread, but I am really struggling to find Lacquer Thinners in New Zealand.. I can't get Seafoam or Chemtool either... I can get acrylic, enamel and general purpose thinners, would any of these do? I don't want to melt the plastic!

You won't hurt the plastic. Lacquer Thinner and Acetone are very aggressive solvents and won't hurt the tank. Enamel paint thinners are typically less volatile/less strong.

Did you try for acetone?

[PeterBiggerstaff]

Did you try for acetone?

Yes, I can get acetone easily, again I was worried it may be too strong... I tried cleaning the face of a plastic watch once... it melted the plastic!

[DMC5180]

Yes, I can get acetone easily, again I was worried it may be too strong... I tried cleaning the face of a plastic watch once... it melted the plastic!

The tank is polyethylene plastic. I can't think of any commercially available solvent that would affect it. You should use a suitable chemical resistant glove when working in the tank. Acetone is pretty nasty stuff and easily absorbed in your skin.

[Rich W]

Hi All,

I posted a while back saying I was on the hunt for a 'project' DeLorean under $15,000 for importation to New Zealand, and she just arrived on Friday!

Vin# 10985 was on the Beverly Hills Car Club website for $14k, I managed to get them down to $13K. They were very good to deal with, as were my shipping company Extreme Global.

Rather than go though the whole list of all the issues, I have put a video up here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQc8XTraFNY

As you can see she's going to be a huge project, but if Dave Stragand can build Project Vixen out of all those parts, I think I can get 10985 looking fairly decent with enough time and money!

... and just over two years later ... nice article, Peter. Keep up the good work.

http://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/84438590/fixing-the-back-to-the-future-car-the-worlds-southernmost-delorean

[Rich_NYS]

... and just over two years later ... nice article, Peter. Keep up the good work.

http://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/84438590/fixing-the-back-to-the-future-car-the-worlds-southernmost-delorean


I'm a big fan of Peter's....I remember when he first posted this and I could see how committed he is. He's clearly a determined guy...very inspiring.

The car doesn't run & drive yet, but he's totally living the dream....I love it!

[Dangermouse]

I don't think they are shady at all. They photograph everything and make basic factual statements (and spare us the usual page long description of JZD and DMCL that other sellers think potential buyers need to know). I note that this particular ad even omits their usual "mechanically sound".

And according to buyers of their fine automobiles they will answer questions and take additional photos as necessary.

Sure their prices are high for what's on offer, but they are not forcing anyone to buy them, and they are negotiable, presumably moreso after the car has sat for a while. Even that car with effectively no frame and the four wheels pointed in different directions has sold recently.

But as with any used (or new) car purchase - buyer beware. Do your research and take a test drive if possible.

[DMC5180]

I don't think they are shady at all. They photograph everything and make basic factual statements (and spare us the usual page long description of JZD and DMCL that other sellers think potential buyers need to know). I note that this particular ad even omits their usual "mechanically sound".

And according to buyers of their fine automobiles they will answer questions and take additional photos as necessary.

Sure their prices are high for what's on offer, but they are not forcing anyone to buy them, and they are negotiable, presumably moreso after the car has sat for a while. Even that car with effectively no frame and the four wheels pointed in different directions has sold recently.

But as with any used (or new) car purchase - buyer beware. Do your research and take a test drive if possible.

Dermot this is an old thread. Did you mean to post here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dangermouse]

SOAB.

That was supposed to be in the BHcC thread. How did that happen ?!

Thanks for pointing it out. I was wondering what happened to my post.


This new fangled internet, etc etc.