Engine Compartment Cover

[Ricker]

Tis the season for replacing/fixing things on the car. While working on the engine stuff I noticed the Engine Compartment Cover flexing quite a bit between the hinges. I remember seeing someone's with a stiffener added inside between them. I'm not sure if it was aluminum or stainless steel, it's dimensions, how it was attached (bolted some way or glued (Weld Bond)).

Does anyone know if you can buy this and where or do you need to make it, how it is attached, do you need to remove the Engine Compartment Cover to install, is it flat or does it have a small curve to it?

Thanks in advance!

[sdg3205]

Tis the season for replacing/fixing things on the car. While working on the engine stuff I noticed the Engine Compartment Cover flexing quite a bit between the hinges. I remember seeing someone's with a stiffener added inside between them. I'm not sure if it was aluminum or stainless steel, it's dimensions, how it was attached (bolted some way or glued (Weld Bond)).

Does anyone know if you can buy this and where or do you need to make it, how it is attached, do you need to remove the Engine Compartment Cover to install, is it flat or does it have a small curve to it?

Thanks in advance!

I've seen homemade versions in nice policed chrome or stainless that sits across the top of the engine cover between the hinges as opposed to below. I have not seen a vendor offered product. Seems easy enough to make.

[Shep]

Tis the season for replacing/fixing things on the car. While working on the engine stuff I noticed the Engine Compartment Cover flexing quite a bit between the hinges. I remember seeing someone's with a stiffener added inside between them. I'm not sure if it was aluminum or stainless steel, it's dimensions, how it was attached (bolted some way or glued (Weld Bond)).

Does anyone know if you can buy this and where or do you need to make it, how it is attached, do you need to remove the Engine Compartment Cover to install, is it flat or does it have a small curve to it?DPI carries this in stainless, painted black. Don't see it on the site (there's quite a few parts in his shop that aren't on his site, I'm assuming this is one of them). Here's a quick install guide to give you an idea of how it works:

1 ) Remove the engine cover by taking the nuts/washers off the hinges and support. Start with the support, then move to the hinges
2 ) Once removed, lay up-side down on a non-abrasive surface
3 ) Dremel down the notch right in between both hinges so it is flush with the rest of the engine cover. If you're not sure which one it is, eyeball the next step and you'll see it
4 ) Test-fit the stiffiner to ensure a snug fit. If it doesn't sit flush, file and/or dremel down any high spots.
5 ) Remove the stiffiner. Probably easiest to just turn the engine cover right-side-up at this point and use your hand to break its fall
6 ) Place some glue (forget which kind, fits in a caulking gun if I recall correctly) where the stiffiner will go
7 ) Press into place, and clamp down for however long the directions on the glue says (I think it was 12-24 hours).
8 ) Wipe off excess glue with e.g. shop towels or paper towels
9 ) After glue dries, remove clamps and re-install engine cover.

I managed to forget step 1, and had some nasty bowing on my engine cover in the process. Them suckers be stiff!

If you're interested in the part, send an email to DPI Josh (his email is here (http://www.deloreanindustries.com/contact-us/)) and ask if he can add it to his site, as well as what kind of glue you're supposed to use.

[rdarlington]

Here's the writeup I did last year:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8279-How-To-Fix-inner-(lower)-engine-cover-after-it-cracks

It's easy and straight forward. Just don't forget to paint the aluminum after it's bonded in place. I still haven't done it.

-Bob

[PJ Grady Inc.]

DPI carries this in stainless, painted black. Don't see it on the site (there's quite a few parts in his shop that aren't on his site, I'm assuming this is one of them). Here's a quick install guide to give you an idea of how it works:

1 ) Remove the engine cover by taking the nuts/washers off the hinges and support. Start with the support, then move to the hinges
2 ) Once removed, lay up-side down on a non-abrasive surface
3 ) Dremel down the notch right in between both hinges so it is flush with the rest of the engine cover. If you're not sure which one it is, eyeball the next step and you'll see it
4 ) Test-fit the stiffiner to ensure a snug fit. If it doesn't sit flush, file and/or dremel down any high spots.
5 ) Remove the stiffiner. Probably easiest to just turn the engine cover right-side-up at this point and use your hand to break its fall
6 ) Place some glue (forget which kind, fits in a caulking gun if I recall correctly) where the stiffiner will go
7 ) Press into place, and clamp down for however long the directions on the glue says (I think it was 12-24 hours).
8 ) Wipe off excess glue with e.g. shop towels or paper towels
9 ) After glue dries, remove clamps and re-install engine cover.

I managed to forget step 1, and had some nasty bowing on my engine cover in the process. Them suckers be stiff!

If you're interested in the part, send an email to DPI Josh (his email is here (http://www.deloreanindustries.com/contact-us/)) and ask if he can add it to his site, as well as what kind of glue you're supposed to use.

Actually I make this part and supply it to DPI. It is powdercoated steel and sells for $18.95. I sell it as an NPN part as I never got around to assigning an official part # as I mostly use them in house. I may as well assign one now. Ok the official # is now 106364G. Your directions are basicaly correct however you must scuff or sand both mating surfaces before bonding and use either urethane (windshield) adhesive or fiberglass resin to attach it. It not only strenghthens the engine cover but repairs cracked covers as well. Once installed you really can't tell it's there so there is no downside except the labor involed. I use a lot of them in the shop. No it's not on the site so you have to call me or Josh to order it.
Rob Grady