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Mark D
01-06-2015, 08:56 AM
By now some of you know that I worked on the restoration of the screen used A-car time machine from the Back to the Future trilogy.

I've had several people send me PM's with build related questions... what a part number is, where a part can be found to purchase online, dimensions of a certain part, etc.

I figured a Q&A thread would be the easiest way to answer.


Some general guidelines I will follow:

If the information you are seeking has been previously posted on a public forum/website, is common knowledge, or is otherwise already "out there" I will gladly share, and can usually point you to additional sources of information.

If the information you are seeking is confidential to the restoration I'll be able to share less but I can still probably point you in the right direction. Much of the info about the restoration is not mine to share, so I can't/won't be able to post certain things.

If you ask a specific question I'll try to be equally as specific with my answer.

I'm not looking to get into any discussions about replica builders, who's more accurate at replicating a part, who's parts are right or wrong, etc. At this point I really have no comment on any of that. I'd like to keep this thread as simple as possible and help people who are building their own car or are simply curious about how something was done.

Mark D
01-06-2015, 09:04 AM
First question I received via PM:


Do you have any idea exactly what the dimensions are on the TCD ?

The time circuit display is made up of three aluminum enclosures, still available to purchase from LMB Heeger, Crown Royal Series part number CR852. You can order them here: http://www.lmbheeger.com/products.asp?catid=7

The screen used boxes were the blue and gray version, painted with hammer finish silver paint. Alternatively, the bare aluminum boxes can also be used since they get painted anyway.

The three enclosures fit inside a fabricated from scratch metal case welded together from 1/8" thick 6061 aluminum sheet. The dimensions of the front of the TCD case are dictated by width and height of the three enclosures. The rest of the case dimensions are dictated by the size of the DeLorean center console.

Mark D
01-06-2015, 09:23 AM
What was used for the Wormhole emitter?
I know a pioneer speaker grill was on the front of it.
But what exactly was the main part of it?

The main body of the wormhole emitter is one of very few parts that has not be positively identified. No one has ever found one "in the wild" at a surplus yard or parts supply house. Most people build these from scratch using reference photos to get the scale correct, or use castings of the real parts from the A/B car.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32337&d=1420553728

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32336&d=1420553728

A few basic dims of the casting from the USH Ohrberg replica.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32339&d=1420553937

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32338&d=1420553937

The pioneer speaker grille was first discovered by members of the time machine restoration team. More information about that can be found on the TMR facebook page. Parts show up on ebay all the time but prices have gone up since the info was released.

The base of the WHE is fabricated from scratch and welded together from 1/8" aluminum sheet and aluminum box channel.

Timebender
01-07-2015, 05:39 PM
Regarding the worm hole emitter, has anyone asked Kevin Pike directly where he may have found it? I know VB did a "parts safari" video where he met Kevin and they went to the surplus store to find most of the original screen used stuff.

Btw, great thread. As a replica prop builder (I have an R2), this is something that I'm interested in doing someday on my own as well.

ccurzio
01-07-2015, 08:08 PM
Why in the world would anything be "confidential?"

mr2nut123
01-08-2015, 04:40 AM
Nice one for sharing Mark! :-)

Josh
01-08-2015, 09:46 AM
Why in the world would anything be "confidential?"

My understanding is to keep information from the for profit replica builders, when a hobbyist spent alot of time and research finding the part.

ccurzio
01-08-2015, 10:28 AM
My understanding is to keep information from the for profit replica builders, when a hobbyist spent alot of time and research finding the part.

That's completely absurd. I'm no fan of replica building, but people building replicas with a high degree of accuracy doesn't detract at all from the movie or the original car. Keeping specific parts secret is stupid.

"Ooh, we can't let the identity of this specific part get out because then other people will KNOW ABOUT IT."

Mark D
01-08-2015, 10:44 AM
Regarding the worm hole emitter, has anyone asked Kevin Pike directly where he may have found it? I know VB did a "parts safari" video where he met Kevin and they went to the surplus store to find most of the original screen used stuff.

Btw, great thread. As a replica prop builder (I have an R2), this is something that I'm interested in doing someday on my own as well.


Kevin Pike was asked probably a decade ago and he thought the WHE might be an aircraft engine ignitor, but that theory was disproved. Kevin was not always directly involved with actually sourcing the parts on the car...often times it was his guys from the shop that were out digging for parts that matched that conceptual design drawings.

The "parts safari" video was shot at APEX electronics, a well known source for a lot of the original parts. It has been pretty much picked over at this point, but I'm sure there are still a few random parts there that would be accurate matches to the screen used cars. Over the many years of hunting through APEX "sister" parts were discovered that literally came from the same cardboard box as the parts used on the screen used car. Most of that stuff is all gone at this point. Inventory gets turned over and recycled at APEX on a regular basis as well, and a cast aluminum part such as the wormhole emitter would have been a good candidate for recycling and melting down for scrap.

A few of the parts on the time machine have also been confirmed as low production or prototype parts from military applications. In the 60's if some prototype vehicle contract was cancelled by the government the supplier of these prototype parts would scrap out any inventory on hand. A lot of that that stuff made it to APEX and then 25 years later Pike's guys picked up the only 3 ever made. Now tack on another 30 years after that it's basically impossible to find more, or even details about what the part was.

Mark D
01-08-2015, 12:29 PM
Why in the world would anything be "confidential?"

The confidential information I was referring to is related to the restoration itself, and not necessarily info about the original time machine and its parts, how it was built, etc. I'm talking about people asking "Hey could you post photos of the car from during the restoration?" No, I can't. Even though I worked on the restoration there is a lot of information that is not my property so I have no rights to distribute stuff like that. Another example would be someone wanting circuit diagrams or dimensions of parts that were recreated from scratch. Sorry, that info is not mine to give.


My understanding is to keep information from the for profit replica builders, when a hobbyist spent alot of time and research finding the part.

This is one reason why individual replica builders choose not to post information pubicly, but it is not the reason why I am unable to share certain things related to the restoration.


That's completely absurd. I'm no fan of replica building, but people building replicas with a high degree of accuracy doesn't detract at all from the movie or the original car. Keeping specific parts secret is stupid.

"Ooh, we can't let the identity of this specific part get out because then other people will KNOW ABOUT IT."

You were basing your response off of Josh's assumption that was not correct, but I get what you're saying. The reality is that nobody actually cares about other people building super accurate replicas, beause you're right that it does not detract from the movie or the original car. Nobody that I'm aware of is trying to keep the identity of any parts a secrect just so other people don't find out.

I'd personally love to see the accuracy of all replicas out there increase so the general public would have a more complete idea of how the car is supposed to look. The original was in disrepair for so long that we now have all kinds of toys and merchandise floating around that was created based off the original car when it looked wrong. The comically huge Mr. Fusion on the original 1/18 Sunstar is a perfect example of this.

In some cases I get why some people keep information secret though. ...

Think of it this way: If tomorrow you found a guy that had 100 NOS binnacles in his basement and was selling them for 25 bucks each what would you do? Your first thought might be to post that info publicly so all your fellow DMC enthusiasts would finally have access to perfect binnacles at a great price... Yay!

But what would really happen is one guy with 2500 cash burning a hole in his pocket would buy all 100. Then you'd watch your fellow DMC enthusiasts get screwed and pay $500 each while you scratched your head wondering what you did wrong.

After that happens a few times you start to learn that it's better to only share sources with a few people you know and trust and not on a public forum. Or you fork over the $2500 yourself to buy them all but sell them at a fair price since most of the people you're working with are your friends. This is why private forums pop up so people can work together to help eachother without getting screwed.

Timebender
01-08-2015, 01:55 PM
Thanks for the great info Mark, and yeah, I get it as far as parts and Kevin (as well as others) not knowing everything. That's pretty much how it is for the most part in the R2 Builders group — a lot what we have was from measurements guys took whenever there was an exhibit going on, as well as from the old Star Wars Blueprints set, and so forth. Then there was a lot of effort into what certain parts looked like they were from, found parts, parts that no longer existed (or were cheap enough to buy like the Vickers Viscount reading lamps). Eventually people started making parts and sharing them, either the design, or how to make, or would do a run (at cost thanks to the license permissions we have from LFL). An example would be the restraining bolt. For years there was first an aluminum machined version, then a resin version (more affordable) made with permission from the guy who made the aluminum ones, and they looked passable. Then so many years later, a couple of the builders figure out EXACTLY what was used (Arri camera lens) and make a perfectly machined version (since the original is hard to find), and sell it for a very reasonable price. And now those guys have figured out the dimensions for our droids we've been using for the last 10 or 15 years are off by just a teeny little. So now there's a new standard - and fortunately the old standard for people who started their builds before the new info was found. AND NOW the new R2 for the movies, built by fellow club members, has a slightly taller dome... and thus a new standard is born.

Anyway, I want to make a 3D printed version of the Tachyon Field Generator, or Worm Hole Emitter, or... and if it comes out okay, I can offer it to others AT COST for print time and materials, or just throw up the model and let others do their own.
So, can I get some more pics- top, back, sides, front, and dimensions?

Greg

Timebender
01-08-2015, 02:40 PM
Oh, didn't see there's some dimensions on the pics you posted. Are there more pics up close like that from different angles?

Mark D
01-08-2015, 04:10 PM
Greg, I get where you're coming from with the R2 builders group. It sounds like there are a few similarities but also a lot of differences since Universal is pretty much hands off and there are no licenses needed to build a time machine replica.

I'll check and see what other photos I have for the WHE (aka Tachyon Field Generator) I know I've got more with dimensions.

3D printing would be a decent path to take, although given the size and amount of material they'd probably end up being a couple hundred bucks each in cost to print. Otherwise there have been castings made of the real ones. I don't have one myself but I know they're out there from a few different sources.

Timebender
01-08-2015, 06:42 PM
Depending on how it's printed it shouldn't be too much, and now that more people have a printer or access to one, it's all up to them. As far as the resin cast ones, I saw VB has one in his set with all the external boxes, but wants $1500 smackers.. to rich for a scratch builder...

Silkie
01-09-2015, 04:47 PM
Thanks for this thread!
And all the information that you are able to share with us.
I had a question about the gold box behind the TCD Drum Switch.
Information seems to be scarce on what part was used for it and the dimensions?
Can you give any insight on that?

Thanks so much!

32357

Mark D
01-09-2015, 05:21 PM
This is a "Clare Electroseal" power supply. Less than a handful have ever been found in the wild so your chances of finding one even with the part number are probably slim. Overall dimensions are 10 x 7 x 5.5. Most people build replicas out of steel or aluminum. The original is cad plated steel with yellow dichromate finish.

Here are a few more photos for reference
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32359&d=1420841859

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32358&d=1420841859

Silkie
01-09-2015, 06:28 PM
This is a "Clare Electroseal" power supply. Less than a handful have ever been found in the wild so your chances of finding one even with the part number are probably slim. Overall dimensions are 10 x 7 x 5.5. Most people build replicas out of steel or aluminum. The original is cad plated steel with yellow dichromate finish.

Thank You! Yes i figured finding one would be impossible. I was more curious as to what exactly it was?
And more importantly the Dimensions.

It looks like they left the arm rest and back center console tray in place Under the Gold Box?
I thought that was all removed then the Aluminum put down?

Brisfx
01-09-2015, 10:23 PM
Thanks for the info Mark. Although my build is "almost" complete its always good to see more information :)

Brisfx
01-09-2015, 10:25 PM
Also

If anyone wants a Wormhole Emitter, I make them and supply them to Bruce Coloumbe and Danny Botkin for their replicas

regards

Brad

aotmfilms
05-12-2015, 03:55 PM
Kevin Pike was asked probably a decade ago and he thought the WHE might be an aircraft engine ignitor, but that theory was disproved. Kevin was not always directly involved with actually sourcing the parts on the car...often times it was his guys from the shop that were out digging for parts that matched that conceptual design drawings.

The "parts safari" video was shot at APEX electronics, a well known source for a lot of the original parts. It has been pretty much picked over at this point, but I'm sure there are still a few random parts there that would be accurate matches to the screen used cars. Over the many years of hunting through APEX "sister" parts were discovered that literally came from the same cardboard box as the parts used on the screen used car. Most of that stuff is all gone at this point. Inventory gets turned over and recycled at APEX on a regular basis as well, and a cast aluminum part such as the wormhole emitter would have been a good candidate for recycling and melting down for scrap.

A few of the parts on the time machine have also been confirmed as low production or prototype parts from military applications. In the 60's if some prototype vehicle contract was cancelled by the government the supplier of these prototype parts would scrap out any inventory on hand. A lot of that that stuff made it to APEX and then 25 years later Pike's guys picked up the only 3 ever made. Now tack on another 30 years after that it's basically impossible to find more, or even details about what the part was.

That's why having access to any and all DRMO's (Defense Reutilization Managment Office) is kindof critical. I have access to some of those places as a Retiree. https://www.sales.dla.mil./dlab2b/init.do This website is for the general public. Also being in 3D design and from Detroit, If I can get a picture of it, I can find a vendor that will do it (my Uncle supplies all types of Metals to the Big 3). So some of those hard to find parts are not hard to find, just need a picture, estimated measurements and some persistance.

I hope the site helps you find what you need. Create an account. Search for what is out there that you could need and then bid on it. Sort of like eBay but only Military-style.

Fk00gsr
11-04-2015, 07:11 PM
This is great info. Does anyone know what type of led segment displays were used? I can't determine whether the size is .56" or .80"? I also can't seem to find a good set of alphanumeric digits that are correctly spaced for the months. Any info would be greatly appreciated!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

chaos
11-07-2015, 03:53 AM
I have a (hopefully) fairly simple question. On the Part 2 and 3 cars, there's a greyish metal box behind the Mr Fusion prop. I'm wondering what this is. Also it doesn't seem to be present on the Part 1 version of the car and I always thought the only change to the back was the plutonium chamber for Mr Fusion. Are you aware of any other difference between the nuclear and fusion versions?

Mark D
11-09-2015, 08:19 AM
This is great info. Does anyone know what type of led segment displays were used? I can't determine whether the size is .56" or .80"? I also can't seem to find a good set of alphanumeric digits that are correctly spaced for the months. Any info would be greatly appreciated!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 7 segment displays used in the original cars are no longer available from the manufacturer in the correct sizes and colors but other manufacturers make some that are close. The digit height is .80". The 3 digit alphanumeric displays were originally made using colored gels back lit by a small incandescent light. The face plates containing the gels were swapped in each scene with a different pre-set month. If you look closely in some scenes before the time circuits light up you can see the month is already present but not lit. On modern time circuit displays most people use off the shelf alphanumeric displays that you can find on Newark.com, mouser electronics, etc.

Mark D
11-09-2015, 08:48 AM
I have a (hopefully) fairly simple question. On the Part 2 and 3 cars, there's a greyish metal box behind the Mr Fusion prop. I'm wondering what this is. Also it doesn't seem to be present on the Part 1 version of the car and I always thought the only change to the back was the plutonium chamber for Mr Fusion. Are you aware of any other difference between the nuclear and fusion versions?

The grey box you see forward of the nuclear reactor is an ammo box covered with a large heatsink. This was added between Part I and Part II, presumably to fill the void from the correct parts that were supposed to be there but were lost. Originally there were two round metal cans but those were removed to install the lightning rod "Trolley Pickup" base. After removal of the lightning rod base it the round cans never made it back on the car.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=37865&d=1447076603

The basic revisions you see to the car are:

Part I
Mark I - As you first see it backing out of the van in the mall parking lot, Two round metal cans are directly forward of the nuclear reactor.
Mark II - Modified with lightning rod "trolley pickup". The round cans are removed and replaced with the lightning rod base.
Mark III - Mr. Fusion added, lightning rod base removed in front of reactor

Part II
Mark IV - Ammo box with heatsink added in front of Mr. Fusion

Part III
Mark V - Whitewall tires, hood box time circuits
Mark VI - Train wheels

Also keep in mind that there were also variations between the A, B, and C cars, offroad stunt cars, the Oxnard wheelie car, and the fiberglass mockup. Most people try to build an accurate replica mostly matching the A or B car with a few of the interior details accurate to the C car.

Timebender
11-15-2015, 07:38 PM
Do you have any detailed pics and dimensions for the flux boxes? I'd like to model them in Fusion so I can then make some 3D prints.

Thanks!

Mark D
11-16-2015, 10:47 AM
Do you have any detailed pics and dimensions for the flux boxes? I'd like to model them in Fusion so I can then make some 3D prints.

Thanks!

I sent you a PM.

Timebender
11-16-2015, 05:03 PM
Dig it

CN12345
01-11-2016, 10:12 PM
The 7 segment displays used in the original cars are no longer available from the manufacturer in the correct sizes and colors but other manufacturers make some that are close. The digit height is .80". The 3 digit alphanumeric displays were originally made using colored gels back lit by a small incandescent light. The face plates containing the gels were swapped in each scene with a different pre-set month. If you look closely in some scenes before the time circuits light up you can see the month is already present but not lit. On modern time circuit displays most people use off the shelf alphanumeric displays that you can find on Newark.com, mouser electronics, etc.

The information in this thread doesn't add up. The CR-852 enclosure is 8.5 inches wide. If the digit height is 0.8 inches, then each digit is 20 mm wide. 20 times 13 digits is 260 mm. That is 10.23 inches without any spacing at all! Either the enclosure is not the CR-852, or the digit height is not 0.8 inches. Or perhaps both are incorrect.

Mark D
01-11-2016, 11:47 PM
The information in this thread doesn't add up.

It sure does.


The CR-852 enclosure is 8.5 inches wide.

Correct.


If the digit height is 0.8 inches

It is, as I stated.


then each digit is 20 mm wide.

This is an assumption on your part which is incorrect.


20 times 13 digits is 260 mm. That is 10.23 inches without any spacing at all! Either the enclosure is not the CR-852, or the digit height is not 0.8 inches. Or perhaps both are incorrect.

Or you made an assumption on your own that was wrong and all your other math based on that assumption is also wrong.


If you wanted to know the width of each display you could have just asked without making accusations. Each 7 segment display is just under 1/2" wide. And as I explained before, the three digit month display was not originally made up of LEDs but was a back lit gel. With a modern 14 segment, 3 character display you can get close to what is seen on screen, but no accurate displays exist, or can possibly exist based on some of the characters seen on screen, IE the "V" character in "NOV" is not possible to make on an actual 14 segment LED display.

CN12345
01-12-2016, 01:06 AM
This is an assumption on your part which is incorrect.



Or you made an assumption on your own that was wrong and all your other math based on that assumption is also wrong.


If you wanted to know the width of each display you could have just asked without making accusations. Each 7 segment display is just under 1/2" wide. And as I explained before, the three digit month display was not originally made up of LEDs but was a back lit gel. With a modern 14 segment, 3 character display you can get close to what is seen on screen, but no accurate displays exist, or can possibly exist based on some of the characters seen on screen, IE the "V" character in "NOV" is not possible to make on an actual 14 segment LED display.

I have on hand a number of 0.8 inch displays, and here is a diagram for a typical 0.8 inch 7 segment display:

39052

27.7 X 20 MM.

11 MM character width at a slant. Use trig to find the actual width and you get ~0.574 inch character width.

It's not even close. Even if you somehow slimmed these down from 20 MM to remove the edges and had no space between any of the digits (which is not accurate), it would be ~7.463 inches. That's just way off when you include all the spaces.

Mark D
01-12-2016, 10:58 AM
Again, not sure why you're being argumentative instead of just (politely) asking questions to get the answers you're seeking.

Please feel free to use whatever LMB cases you wish with whatever displays you wish if you don't like the information in this thread.

aotmfilms
01-12-2016, 11:02 AM
Again, not sure why you're being argumentative instead of just (politely) asking questions to get the answers you're seeking.

Please feel free to use whatever LMB cases you wish with whatever displays you wish if you don't like the information in this thread.

I've been following this and thanks for the info Mark! Someday I'll build me one of those displays and printing this thead off will be helpful when that happens. Right now I have an iPad/Droid Tablet for my displays. Looks neat but not screen accurate. lol

--Doug

Mark D
01-12-2016, 11:08 AM
No problem Doug... and please don't be confused by that last attachment that CN12345 posted. That display is much too large.

CN12345
01-12-2016, 11:33 AM
No problem Doug... and please don't be confused by that last attachment that CN12345 posted. That display is much too large.

Um... it's the very size you told people to use. I'm just trying to warn people not to buy parts that won't fit together... like I did based on your faulty information. I showed you the math. Furthermore, I have a bunch of 0.8 inch displays and a CR-852 that don't even come close to fitting together.

Seriously... if you're thinking of making one of these, add it all up before you buy your parts. There is no way 0.8 inch displays work with cr-852. Look at the data sheets. Measure it all out. Mark is wrong, which is why he shrugged off my last post demonstrating how it's impossible.

Mark D
01-12-2016, 11:56 AM
Um... it's the very size you told people to use. I'm just trying to warn people not to buy parts that won't fit together... like I did based on your faulty information. I showed you the math. Furthermore, I have a bunch of 0.8 inch displays and a CR-852 that don't even come close to fitting together.

Seriously... if you're thinking of making one of these, add it all up before you buy your parts. There is no way 0.8 inch displays work with cr-852. Look at the data sheets. Measure it all out. Mark is wrong, which is why he shrugged off my last post demonstrating how it's impossible.

All three of the posts you've made on this forum so far have been rude. You've made assumptions in each of these posts that are wrong and you are totally confused. The display you posted was wrong, so it's no surprise to me that all your other conclusions are wrong. You are specifically confusing the overall height of the display with the CHARACTER height. I shrugged off your last post because you didn't even ask any questions and your mind appears to be set. If you're that confident in your own conclusions then build whatever you want. If you would like some additional clarification on what is correct then all you have to do is ask and not be a jerk about it.

I've held screen used displays in my hands and developed the reproduction displays that are now inside the A-car. No accurate off the shelf displays exist. They had to be 100% re-engineered from scratch based on the vintage displays that are NLA.

sdg3205
01-12-2016, 12:02 PM
Um... it's the very size you told people to use. I'm just trying to warn people not to buy parts that won't fit together... like I did based on your faulty information. I showed you the math. Furthermore, I have a bunch of 0.8 inch displays and a CR-852 that don't even come close to fitting together.

Seriously... if you're thinking of making one of these, add it all up before you buy your parts. There is no way 0.8 inch displays work with cr-852. Look at the data sheets. Measure it all out. Mark is wrong, which is why he shrugged off my last post demonstrating how it's impossible.

Who are you? Where did you come from? Mark is a well respected member of our community. It's a small community, probably best not show up to the party and knock everything over.

aotmfilms
01-20-2016, 04:19 PM
Who are you? Where did you come from? Mark is a well respected member of our community. It's a small community, probably best not show up to the party and knock everything over.



Roughly about 6,000 to 6,500 give or take a few fans!:thumbup:

--Doug

Drewlorean
02-16-2016, 10:28 PM
Do you know the part numbers of the various Zero cans?
More importantly, do you have the dimensions? From what I understand those suckers are expensive, so I may build something from scratch.

Mark D
02-16-2016, 11:01 PM
Yeah I can look up the various part numbers and I can post them here. A few of them are non-standard sizes that you have to specify that you want them untrimmed to leave the flanges on, otherwise they usually trim them by default. The dimensions for each part number can be found on the zero website if you decide to build certain ones yourself.

mluder
02-17-2016, 04:35 PM
Yeah I can look up the various part numbers and I can post them here. A few of them are non-standard sizes that you have to specify that you want them untrimmed to leave the flanges on, otherwise they usually trim them by default. The dimensions for each part number can be found on the zero website if you decide to build certain ones yourself.

Hi, Mark.

I know this is a loaded question but while you're at it, is there a definitive list of all the re purposed parts used on the time machine. I know a few items like the hub cap and the Janitrol are pretty well known. However in all of my internet searches I've never found a comprehensive list/diagram of each part and what it is (manufacturer/part number/etc.)

This would be nice to have as even if the parts themselves are no longer available or extremely rare/expensive, one could still research them and attempt to fabricate replacements.

Cheers
Steven

Mark D
02-18-2016, 11:12 AM
I do have an excel spreadsheet that I've created over the years with part numbers/sources and other info on various parts. The issue with sharing it as it currently stands is that a lot of the information was shared with me by other people and isn't necessarily mine to post publicly... or in some cases I don't even know if the person who shared with me would care if I shared it.

My list also contains sources for some of the parts that I've given others in private but that I wouldn't post on a public board. The issue with openly posting sources is that while most people will buy what they need for themselves and let the next guy do the same, you'll also end up with one or two people that buy up everything they can get their hands on and then try to sell it for 10x profit. I get that we live in a capitalistic society and that's how things work, but in a small community of builders it can actually make things worse for a lot of people if sources are out there for the world to see.

A lot of builders joined together at one point in time to share everything among ourselves and we worked together for years to figure out just about every single part on the car. It took a village to figure out some of the mysteries but eventually we were able to figure out as a team what one person could have never done by themselves. Even still, some of the for-profit types went to extreme lengths to literally steal information or paid other people to buy parts so they could get their hands on them. It sounds insane but people do crazy things when money is involved.

Anyway, long story short is that if you have a specific question I can give you answers on a almost everything. It would take some doing though to figure out what I could blanket share in one large file dump without crossing any lines with people I'm working with or have worked with in the past.

mluder
02-18-2016, 01:01 PM
I do have an excel spreadsheet that I've created over the years with part numbers/sources and other info on various parts. The issue with sharing it as it currently stands is that a lot of the information was shared with me by other people and isn't necessarily mine to post publicly... or in some cases I don't even know if the person who shared with me would care if I shared it.

My list also contains sources for some of the parts that I've given others in private but that I wouldn't post on a public board. The issue with openly posting sources is that while most people will buy what they need for themselves and let the next guy do the same, you'll also end up with one or two people that buy up everything they can get their hands on and then try to sell it for 10x profit. I get that we live in a capitalistic society and that's how things work, but in a small community of builders it can actually make things worse for a lot of people if sources are out there for the world to see.

A lot of builders joined together at one point in time to share everything among ourselves and we worked together for years to figure out just about every single part on the car. It took a village to figure out some of the mysteries but eventually we were able to figure out as a team what one person could have never done by themselves. Even still, some of the for-profit types went to extreme lengths to literally steal information or paid other people to buy parts so they could get their hands on them. It sounds insane but people do crazy things when money is involved.

Anyway, long story short is that if you have a specific question I can give you answers on a almost everything. It would take some doing though to figure out what I could blanket share in one large file dump without crossing any lines with people I'm working with or have worked with in the past.

That's too bad you feel that way... I'm going to try to be as tactful as responsible because I don't want to come across as argumentative or offend you. You have your reasons - some may or may not be in your control... So here goes.

I don't understand people who search out information like this and then tuck it away for only themselves and a few friends. This seems to be limited to people in the prop community where there seem to be two camps... those who openly share everything from product to process because they want everyone else to share in their joy/excitement etc. The other side keeps everything secret. It was there time and possibly money spent finding the answers and why should they share it for free. Thank goodness this message board isn't filled with people with that ideology. Imagine if other DeLorean owners had tips and techniques for fixing their cars but refused to share them with the community... Kinda seems counter intuitive to the word "community."

One other point... You mentioned capitalism in regards to people hoarding parts and selling them for 10x the regular price. Aren't you basically doing the same thing with information? The people that would do that sort of thing already know what those parts are and are well known in the Time Machine building world. If you want to dismantle their ability to gouge people and overcharge them, what better way than to blanket release all the information? You basically take away their power to drive up pricing because everyone has the ability to try to find their own parts.

So do I have a specific question... Sure I'm curious about the specific manufacturer and part number for every piece that was sourced for the build. I guess I'll have to ask in multiple posts over the course of several weeks. Clearly I'm being sarcastic I'm just disappointed that you would come to this board and dangle a carrot like that and then agree to drop little bits and pieces here and there when you fell like it. Too bad.

Cheers
Steven

Mark D
02-18-2016, 02:35 PM
No offense taken to anything in your post, and I personally get your frustration. A few things to consider though:


I don't understand people who search out information like this and then tuck it away for only themselves and a few friends. This seems to be limited to people in the prop community where there seem to be two camps... those who openly share everything from product to process because they want everyone else to share in their joy/excitement etc. The other side keeps everything secret. It was there time and possibly money spent finding the answers and why should they share it for free.

I should have clarified from the beginning that the vast majority of information I can share without any restrictions. What I described as things I'm not able to share are more the exception to the rule. There are literally thousands of parts and part numbers involved to build a time machine, so to ask for everything is a bit of a stretch for me to handle. That's why I said if you have a specific question, IE a part, or a series of parts you're looking for I'll give you everything I possibly can.

Also, the two camps you described aren't as black and white as you're thinking. There's definitely a range of what people are willing to share, especially in a PM vs in an open thread on the internet. As I've tried to explain the things I can't share because they are not my intellectual property, or because I have no interest in helping a vendor find another source to buy out in mass quantity and then resell for profit. It's not that I've spent time or money to figure it out. I have no problem giving info with someone who I know is going to buy what they need for themselves to build their car.


Thank goodness this message board isn't filled with people with that ideology. Imagine if other DeLorean owners had tips and techniques for fixing their cars but refused to share them with the community... Kinda seems counter intuitive to the word "community.


The difference here is that you're not asking for tips and techniques for building a time machine, you're asking for part numbers. The other big difference is that the majority of DeLorean parts are not insanely rare or difficult to find, and the vendors involved in the DeLorean world are mostly honest and good people. The same cannot be said for all vendors in the BTTF community. Most time machine parts are extremely limited in quantity and when that quantity is depleted there are often none left in the entire world. Parts that were once plentiful 'in the wild' at normal prices are now extinct because vendors bought up every single one they could get their hands on.


One other point... You mentioned capitalism in regards to people hoarding parts and selling them for 10x the regular price. Aren't you basically doing the same thing with information? The people that would do that sort of thing already know what those parts are and are well known in the Time Machine building world. If you want to dismantle their ability to gouge people and overcharge them, what better way than to blanket release all the information? You basically take away their power to drive up pricing because everyone has the ability to try to find their own parts.


Not all information is known to all vendors, including part numbers, sources, dimensions, etc. That's why it's not possible to simply list off every part number as you are requesting. As I said before though, if you have a specific question on something I can answer it, most likely publicly but if not publicly perhaps in private.

To use an example of the problem with BTTF vendors, I'll use DeLorean parts as an example: Imagine that you stumbled upon a source of 100 NOS left front fenders that had previously been in a defunct dealer warehouse. You're a "share everything from product to process" kind of guy, so you post the name and phone number on DMCTalk of the guy selling them for the insanely low price of $200 each. Your hope is that there are 100 owners out there who have been looking for a reasonably priced left front fender to fix their car. To your shock and awe, before a single person can buy one someone posts on the forum that your source has sold out. The next day you see advertised on vendor XYZ's website "New arrivals! Left front fenders, 2000 each".

Would this make you rethink your sharing strategy in the future? Replace "Left front fender" with "Janitrol Heater" or "Oil Separator tank" and this has literally happened dozens of times in the BTTF community.


So do I have a specific question... Sure I'm curious about the specific manufacturer and part number for every piece that was sourced for the build. I guess I'll have to ask in multiple posts over the course of several weeks. Clearly I'm being sarcastic I'm just disappointed that you would come to this board and dangle a carrot like that and then agree to drop little bits and pieces here and there when you fell like it. Too bad.

All I'm asking is that you be more specific than 'tell me every part number there is to know'. You're not going to be able to search for everything all at once anyway and by asking for something specific I can give you a much more detailed answer that will definitely help you more than just a list of part numbers.

If you want to know about the orange tube or some other part I can write a 1000 word essay on it and where you can probably find one, but if you simply ask for everything all at once, including all the things I'm not able to share for reasons not in my control, I'm not going to be able to help you much. Help me help you and let me know, specifically, what you want.

DMCVegas
02-18-2016, 06:00 PM
I do have an excel spreadsheet that I've created over the years with part numbers/sources and other info on various parts. The issue with sharing it as it currently stands is that a lot of the information was shared with me by other people and isn't necessarily mine to post publicly... or in some cases I don't even know if the person who shared with me would care if I shared it.

I can totally see that, and I can actually relate. Many years ago, there was an idea on the DML to try and "modernize" the Workshop Manual. The idea was to take the existing manual, and then rewrite the entire thing using proper laymen's terms, include cross-indexing between the procedures, and then to finally incorporate modernized and simplified repair procedures as had been pioneered over the years within the community itself. That last part however was a huge sticking point. After all, who really owns the rights to the material that we posted onto the DML? Certainly anything that came from De Lorean World was protected buy Copywrite, and as such was taken down (the scanned diagram on how to lace the battery straps was a prime example). But what about what we as individuals that had contributed as a group?

Contributors wanted to be compensated. Some wanted money, and others (such as myself) merely wanted credits as a co-author. I simply wanted the entire community to benefit, but yes, I wanted to at least be listed as a contributor for the efforts. And that was the compensation that I wanted. Just like later on when I started going over the patent diagrams for the Legend Industries turbo system, and wanted to know the exact specifications on the vacuum system to get the Bias Boost working, and ran into the same thing of "Well, you didn't put the work in for this knowledge, so what right do you have to just receive it without compensation?"

I was pissed at first of course because I hit a roadblock when I was told "No", but I understand it. Which is really the norm for when you're compiling research. There is a price to pay for standing on the shoulders of other people. Granted we need that ability to advance forward for the greater good, but we also need certain restrictions in order to also protect those legacies as well. So I understand where you're coming from. You've got both a community to protect, as well as your own bonds of trust.

mluder
02-18-2016, 06:06 PM
No offense taken to anything in your post, and I personally get your frustration. A few things to consider though:

I appreciate your thoughtful response... I guess I'm just the kinda guy who likes to have everything at his fingertips. I references the Ghostbusters Proton Pack. there are full measured drawings readily available on the internet with all the stock part numbers and manufacturers... Many of these parts are also rare/expensive. That didn't keep anyone from freely distributing it.

To address you left front fender example... I most certainly would share the information. Yep... there might be someone out there who buys them all up to resell at a markup... Heck, it happened when DMC when out of business. However, most people in this community, and in the prop building community don't think that way. Example - a member here recently posted that they had a number of dash clocks, some in varying degrees of working/not. As far as I know only two people requested to buy units. There was no massive run on people trying to grab them up... Example from the prop community - The Rocketeer back pack buckle. For years it's origin was unknown and then one guy stumbled on the answer and immediately took to the RPF to tell the world. Why? Because the information should be open and out there. The consequences were not his to determine. The community would decide that. And if some member tried to take advantage of that information and rip-off the rest of the community, they would quickly be shut out. Ask Video Bob why he's not allowed to play in the RPF anymore...

You originally stated that you have an Excel spreadsheet with part numbers etc... I guess I don't understand why that can't be made public. You said yourself that a lot of it came from other researchers who shared the info with you. So they apparently had no problem passing it out... did they specifically tell you NOT to share it? In the end, the info is your's to do with as you will so I have to respect that even if I disagree with it.

Thanks for your time.
Steve

mluder
02-18-2016, 06:15 PM
I can totally see that, and I can actually relate. Many years ago, there was an idea on the DML to try and "modernize" the Workshop Manual. The idea was to take the existing manual, and then rewrite the entire thing using proper laymen's terms, include cross-indexing between the procedures, and then to finally incorporate modernized and simplified repair procedures as had been pioneered over the years within the community itself. That last part however was a huge sticking point. After all, who really owns the rights to the material that we posted onto the DML? Certainly anything that came from De Lorean World was protected buy Copywrite, and as such was taken down (the scanned diagram on how to lace the battery straps was a prime example). But what about what we as individuals that had contributed as a group?

Contributors wanted to be compensated. Some wanted money, and others (such as myself) merely wanted credits as a co-author. I simply wanted the entire community to benefit, but yes, I wanted to at least be listed as a contributor for the efforts. And that was the compensation that I wanted. Just like later on when I started going over the patent diagrams for the Legend Industries turbo system, and wanted to know the exact specifications on the vacuum system to get the Bias Boost working, and ran into the same thing of "Well, you didn't put the work in for this knowledge, so what right do you have to just receive it without compensation?"

I was pissed at first of course because I hit a roadblock when I was told "No", but I understand it. Which is really the norm for when you're compiling research. There is a price to pay for standing on the shoulders of other people. Granted we need that ability to advance forward for the greater good, but we also need certain restrictions in order to also protect those legacies as well. So I understand where you're coming from. You've got both a community to protect, as well as your own bonds of trust.

But it's not like he invented anything... All he did was compile a list of the parts. The studio and special effects house is the only one who could lay claim to intellectual property. If I create a list of all the books by Charles Dickens do I have a right to demand compensation if you want access to that list. After all, it's not like I wrote the books.

I assume the workshop manual was to be sold... Was it to be sold for profit or at cost? If you sold it for cost then no one should expect any sort of compensation. Now if it cost you $5 to produce and you charged $100 for it I might start to ask about some sort of compensation too, after all, you are profiting from something I created.

Just some thoughts.
Cheers
Steve

DMCVegas
02-18-2016, 07:08 PM
But it's not like he invented anything... All he did was compile a list of the parts. The studio and special effects house is the only one who could lay claim to intellectual property. If I create a list of all the books by Charles Dickens do I have a right to demand compensation if you want access to that list. After all, it's not like I wrote the books.

Well now, it's a little bit more than simple compiling. There was a great deal of effort that went into obtaining that data. What the compensation he and those that obtained the data was, I've no idea. BUT still, there is the work behind it.

Comparing easily reproducible such as a book which is in the public domain isn't quite as fair. Perhaps something more inline to this might be if perhaps you found a site where you could pan for gold. There is a finite amount of gold in that location that perhaps people need. So as for those that need the gold, this is akin to those who know the location to only give out directions to those whom they know would be responsible enough to simply take what they need, rather than to go up there and profiteer by extracting everything, and then charging an outrageous markup for no other reason than that they can.

In essence, I believe that when it comes to the prop-building community, the goal isn't to create an army of "Pharma Bros". You want to start buying time machine parts from this guy?

http://www.adweek.com/prnewser/wp-content/uploads/sites/8/2015/12/pharma-bro.jpg



I assume the workshop manual was to be sold... Was it to be sold for profit or at cost? If you sold it for cost then no one should expect any sort of compensation. Now if it cost you $5 to produce and you charged $100 for it I might start to ask about some sort of compensation too, after all, you are profiting from something I created.

But even then you're saying that you have a threshold of tolerance that once crossed, you demand financial compensation. What is that line, and why do you feel that way? I would say that if "at cost" you don't deserve compensation, then no matter what the profit margins would be, you shouldn't deserve any compensation whatsoever. And I say as much because it balances out the ethic on both sides.

Again, just some thoughts from my side as well over here.

Mark D
02-18-2016, 08:22 PM
As far as part numbers go I can share pretty much all of it.. The problem with the spreadsheet is that there is a lot more information intertwined like sources and measurements that other people have taken, info on parts that were not found items and things that were fabricated from scratch. The latter are the things that I'd consider intellectual property since someone sat down for literally tens or hundreds of hours measuring stuff or studying photos to make their own unique creation. It's more than just a part number, but a product of someone's own reverse engineering and replicating skills.

The effort it would take to separate everything out into two piles, one that I can distribute for public consumption and another pile that is not would be an extremely difficult task to say the least. That is why I was hoping for more specific requests that I can pull information from not only the spreadsheet but photos and notes to give a more complete answer that will be more helpful.

I don't have all the answers either so if there is something specific I don't know I can ask other people to try and get you the info you're looking for.

At some point it would be great to compile everything into one definitive source of info like the GB proton pack stuff, but the vastness of the information makes it really difficult. Some parts are so complex and made up of so many individual piece parts you could write a book on that one single prop. Then you start talking variations between the A, B and C car as well and it's multiplied by a factor of 3.

mluder
02-18-2016, 08:26 PM
In essence, I believe that when it comes to the prop-building community, the goal isn't to create an army of "Pharma Bros". You want to start buying time machine parts from this guy?

http://www.adweek.com/prnewser/wp-content/uploads/sites/8/2015/12/pharma-bro.jpg



Yeah... look how well that worked out for him though... :)

Cheers
Steve

Ikeaboy1
02-19-2016, 11:52 AM
Mark is super cool and as respectful and generous with information as anyone I've encountered in the hobby. Seriously a stand-up guy.

To add my personal feeling regarding the guarding of information: A lot of us have considerable time invested in hunting down information and parts. We've incurred a cost in order to obtain parts or information. I spent eight years looking for a particular rare part, and when I found one, I found a few. I emailed friends and those who have helped me in the past to let them know what I'd found and to offer trade for parts they may have. In my case, I wanted to trade my time invested into finding part X for the time my friends had invested to find part Y or Z. This encourages cooperation between people, and allows those who are willing to do the heavy lifting to recoup the invested time. If someone thinks the hobby would be improved if everyone instantly publicly shared whatever information they gather, that's great.
The knowledge someone gains through their own toil is theirs to give away freely. But I encourage anyone who holds this opinion to get busy, walk the walk, and tell the rest of us what the worm hole emitter is.

DMCVegas
02-19-2016, 01:19 PM
But I encourage anyone who holds this opinion to get busy, walk the walk, and tell the rest of us what the worm hole emitter is.

Quick Google search shows that it's part of a vintage aircraft radio. Looks like a Reciever/Navigator given the markings on the bottom.

What's funny is it looks like the Bendix Trophy Line M-450. Has the perfect shape that aligns with the holes as and whatever may have been in those cylinders. Bendix bought that technology from Motorola. The M-450 may contain the shape, but has no accommodation for the switch. Perhaps this was for a pre-solid-state radio. Must not be too common as a couple of people have these things and have no idea what they are. Or what you're looking at is an internal part that is normally encased in something else.

I'd start checking with veteran radiomen. One of them probably recognizes it. This guy could probably help either identify it, or at least put you on the path: http://www.radio-nv.com/

awildermode
02-19-2016, 01:25 PM
But I encourage anyone who holds this opinion to get busy, walk the walk, and tell the rest of us what the worm hole emitter is.

I believe the 'official' name for that is Tachyon Field Generator. :wink:

I could be wrong (please feel free to correct), but the most of it was custom fabricated. The 'grille' piece in front of the TFG is from a Pioneer TS-1011 speaker.

Thanks Mark for all the info you provide.

Ikeaboy1
02-19-2016, 01:28 PM
Quick Google search shows that it's part of a vintage aircraft radio. Looks like a Reciever/Navigator given the markings on the bottom.

What's funny is it looks like the Bendix Trophy Line M-450. Has the perfect shape that aligns with the holes as and whatever may have been in those cylinders. Bendix bought that technology from Motorola. The M-450 may contain the shape, but has no accommodation for the switch. Perhaps this was for a pre-solid-state radio. Must not be too common as a couple of people have these things and have no idea what they are. Or what you're looking at is an internal part that is normally encased in something else.

I'd start checking with veteran radiomen. One of them probably recognizes it. This guy could probably help either identify it, or at least put you on the path: http://www.radio-nv.com/

Google is a good place to start your journey.

After about 1,000 hours of research, if you're lucky to find a rabbit hole that actually turns up the actual part, be sure to share the result publicly with all of us.

Ikeaboy1
02-19-2016, 01:30 PM
I believe the 'official' name for that is Tachyon Field Generator. :wink:

I could be wrong (please feel free to correct), but the most of it was custom fabricated. The 'grille' piece in front of the TFG is from a Pioneer TS-1011 speaker.



It was not a fabricated part. You are correct about the TS-1011 grille.

DMCVegas
02-19-2016, 01:49 PM
Google is a good place to start your journey.

After about 1,000 hours of research, if you're lucky to find a rabbit hole that actually turns up the actual part, be sure to share the result publicly with all of us.

Nope. That is not a path which I choose to go down. Not because if I had the information I wouldn't share it, but because I've no desire to build a BTTF replica. Ergo I've no desire to solve that mystery. It doesn't interest me to really search for more than what I've already shared.

But I have left a lead. Because as it turns out, just as Google can search for pages and archives for meta data, someone has brought William Gibson's book Pattern Recognition to life to generate the same sort of data for image searches (hint: that's not a heat sink wrapped around the device, it's a stock vibration isolator)... And with that URL, I know a bit of that guy's backstory in radio communications, and feel that he'd be one of the best chances you'd have in tracking down such equipment.

Best of luck!

Rich_NYS
02-19-2016, 02:03 PM
Mark is super cool and as respectful and generous with information as anyone I've encountered in the hobby. Seriously a stand-up guy.

+10


Here's a BTTF Time Machine question I'm certain you haven't yet been asked: you built a time machine?!....out of a DeLorean?!!

awildermode
02-19-2016, 02:19 PM
It was not a fabricated part. You are correct about the TS-1011 grille.

Ha! Thanks for the correction. Shows you what I know.

The info here and other places has helped with my Time Machines. While some information I had to 'fake' myself, thanks to all who have contributed the information. For the record, I did not bulk purchase any parts...actually, I did not buy any parts...just replicated the parts for the Time Machine. :)

Mark D
02-19-2016, 03:10 PM
Mark is super cool and as respectful and generous with information as anyone I've encountered in the hobby. Seriously a stand-up guy.

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.

As far as the wormhole emitter / tachyon field generator goes, it's made up of a combination of found and fabricated parts.

The main body is a found part, one of the few that still remains a mystery as to what it really is. Has the words "Receive Voice Tone" cast into it. The two cylindrical bores appear to be mechanical in nature and have a yellowish chem film coating to prevent corrosion. The real emitter on the A car had some slight wear marks on the bores where it looked like there was some kind of reciprocating piston inside that had worn through the anti corrosion finish.

The plastic molded grille on the front is from a pioneer speaker as already mentioned.

The black ribbed belt is a standard type of rubber matting that you'd find on top of toolboxes and inside drawers/trays.

The base is custom fabricated from 1/8" aluminum sheet to fit the cast body and has two legs welded to it, made of aluminum rectangular tubing that is cut, notched and welded.

The cross shaped plate on the back is freehand cut from 1/16" galvanized steel sheet and is held in place with button head cap screws.

Attached to the back plate are two round light bases that hold a 12V automotive bayonet style bulbs. The bulbs were painted over with a transparent blue paint.

I don't think you ever really see the emitter light up on screen since you're typically viewing it from the front side.... There are a few photos where you can see wires heading up to the emitter so presumably at some time it did light up. The same light housings are also used inside the nuclear reactor which also never really gets seen in full glory lit up on screen.

Ikeaboy1
02-19-2016, 03:58 PM
This is a potato quality video, but I'm pretty sure you can spot the illuminated WHE in this shot. Check it out on the bluray. I also think it's illuminated in the following shots of Doc driving Marty home.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K54xnt4QRW4

Mark D
02-19-2016, 04:06 PM
Awesome! I never noticed the WHE lit up before in that scene... That shot It's actually one of my favorite sequences from the entire trilogy. The wipe using the lamp post between the ILM model to the full scale DeLorean is about as seamless as you can get for 1990's special effects. You can tell the stunt guys even put a little bump in the street for the real DeLorean to run over to add to the effect that it had just landed.

DMCVegas
02-19-2016, 04:17 PM
As far as the wormhole emitter / tachyon field generator goes, it's made up of a combination of found and fabricated parts.

The main body is a found part, one of the few that still remains a mystery as to what it really is.

You mean like this?

399033990439905

Ikeaboy1
02-19-2016, 04:21 PM
Exactly like that.

Mark D
02-19-2016, 04:30 PM
The first two photos are of the B car emitter and at some point in time someone sanded and polished the exterior smooth to remove the rough casting finish including the words cast into it. That third photo is of the A car emitter and you can see how the word Receive is barely visible (mostly sanded flush). The word Tone is hidden below the belt material.

It looks like there may have been some type of switch mounted to the exterior that pivoted on the round boss. It doesn't look like the switching mechanism had a whole lot to do with the actual function of the part itself though since the inner bores do not connect to it in any way.

Ikeaboy1
02-19-2016, 04:34 PM
at some point in time someone sanded and polished the exterior smooth to remove the rough casting finish including the words cast into it.

Wasn't it Ohrberg who polished it?

Mark D
02-19-2016, 04:39 PM
Wasn't it Ohrberg who polished it?

I don't know the answer for sure... At some point in the 90's castings were made of the B car emitter, one of which was on the A car for quite a while. Those castings are also smooth. It seems to have happened sometime shortly after filming which was when Ohrberg had the A car and some of the B car remains, so that would make sense from a timeline standpoint.

DMCVegas
02-19-2016, 05:04 PM
The first two photos are of the B car emitter and at some point in time someone sanded and polished the exterior smooth to remove the rough casting finish including the words cast into it. That third photo is of the A car emitter and you can see how the word Receive is barely visible (mostly sanded flush). The word Tone is hidden below the belt material.

It looks like there may have been some type of switch mounted to the exterior that pivoted on the round boss. It doesn't look like the switching mechanism had a whole lot to do with the actual function of the part itself though since the inner bores do not connect to it in any way.

Unless these are old photos for sold parts, these are separate devices from private collectors who are seeking to identify these parts.

Here are the internal cross-references:
3990739908

Though it isn't 100% complete as we cannot see if those two holes along the pivot point are connected to the bore on that side.

Ikeaboy1
02-19-2016, 05:07 PM
Those photos are of the actual parts. The screen used parts. Posted by people seeking blind feedback from communities who may be able to identify them.

And is that your CAD, Mark?

DMCVegas
02-19-2016, 05:09 PM
Those photos are of the actual parts. The screen used parts. Posted by people seeking blind feedback from communities who may be able to identify them.

And is that your CAD, Mark?

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/f/f8/Internet_dog.jpg

Mark D
02-19-2016, 05:16 PM
Those photos are of the actual parts. The screen used parts. Posted by people seeking blind feedback from communities who may be able to identify them.

And is that your CAD, Mark?

Yeah the first two photos of the B car emitter is literally the part that was attached to the B car. The one I noted as the A car emitter is the one that was originally on the A car, went into storage for a while, and is now back on the A car after the restoration.

And yes, that CAD screen grab showing the cross section of the wormhole emitter is a 3D solid model that I created 3 or 4 years ago. 8)

Ikeaboy1
02-19-2016, 05:18 PM
Yup that CAD screen grab showing the cross sections is a 3D solid model that I created 3 or 4 years ago. 8)

Gotcha. :)

Mark D
02-19-2016, 05:30 PM
As far as I'm aware not a single wormhole emitter has ever been found "in the wild". Castings and scratch built replicas have been made of the screen used parts but what and where the original parts came from remains a mystery.

It's one of the last great discoveries that has yet to be made.

StanMan PushN 88
04-22-2016, 04:22 PM
Mark, and others,
Thanks for sharing whatever pieces you can within reason. I'm a new owner, only 10 months into it and I enjoy the puzzle-building challenge of it, much like as a kid putting the model cars together. Now, if there's a simplicated parts list you can share, or pictures of your builds, I'd appreciate it so when going to car shows against Mustangs/Chargers/Corvettes, and representing the DeLorean/BTTF fan base, it's closer to 95% solution than stuck at 40% because 30 years after the movie it's hard to know what parts to look for, even substitutes or look alike stuff would be great. Yes, we all want to make our fan-home-replica project cars as much like the movie as possible for accuracy. So for the few of us working on everything from scratch with no professional staff, (mine is mostly help from friends & grandkids & a welder on exhaust vents), where do you recommend going to get the flux band tubes (like national hardware chain?) (WHAT SIZE tube, aluminum??) and the stainless steel mesh (?) and the rubber pieces that hold it all to the car?

Thoughts on best tool to bend the tubes into right curves configuration?

Will any of you be attending the big national Delorean Convention in Springfield, Illinois this summer with your replicas? Hope to meet you there! Thank you very much!

Stan-PushN 88

mluder
04-24-2016, 09:30 AM
Mark, and others,
Now, if there's a simplicated parts list you can share, or pictures of your builds, I'd appreciate it

Good luck... I asked the same question here and was basically told to pound sand.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11228-BTTF-Time-Machine-Build-Questions-Ask-Me-Anything&p=191064&viewfull=1#post191064

However, I met a guy on Facebook building a replica... he was more than happy to share a bunch of info on what the parts are and even sources for getting them - he even sold me some rare parts that he had extra of. I'll ask him if I can share his contact info with you. I'm sure it won't be a problem as he's a really helpful guy.

Cheers
Steve

Ikeaboy1
04-24-2016, 12:01 PM
The flux bands are 3/4". The mesh can be purchased at tons of places(Amazon.com, even) but i can't recall the correct hole size/spacing. I'm sure that info is out there on the internets.

The rubber brackets you'll need to custom make or find someone who can make or has a set to sell.

RamblinDMC
04-24-2016, 11:54 PM
I'm planning on making a replica digital speedometer sometime soon. I can't seem to find any dimensions/drawings of it online anywhere. Does anyone know a source for this? I really just need the dimensions of the box and the size of the 7 segment LED displays.

Thanks!

Mark D
04-25-2016, 08:58 AM
Mark, and others,
Thanks for sharing whatever pieces you can within reason. I'm a new owner, only 10 months into it and I enjoy the puzzle-building challenge of it, much like as a kid putting the model cars together. Now, if there's a simplicated parts list you can share, or pictures of your builds, I'd appreciate it so when going to car shows against Mustangs/Chargers/Corvettes, and representing the DeLorean/BTTF fan base, it's closer to 95% solution than stuck at 40% because 30 years after the movie it's hard to know what parts to look for, even substitutes or look alike stuff would be great. Yes, we all want to make our fan-home-replica project cars as much like the movie as possible for accuracy. So for the few of us working on everything from scratch with no professional staff, (mine is mostly help from friends & grandkids & a welder on exhaust vents), where do you recommend going to get the flux band tubes (like national hardware chain?) (WHAT SIZE tube, aluminum??) and the stainless steel mesh (?) and the rubber pieces that hold it all to the car?

Thoughts on best tool to bend the tubes into right curves configuration?

Will any of you be attending the big national Delorean Convention in Springfield, Illinois this summer with your replicas? Hope to meet you there! Thank you very much!

Stan-PushN 88

Hey Stan, If you PM me your email address I can email you a bunch of reference photos to help with your build.

For the flux bands the acurate solution is to use either 3/4" solid aluminum rod or 3/4" aluminum tubing. I've only worked with solid rod using a hydraulic pipe bender like this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-pipe-bender-32888.html

It's not the easiest method but with solid bar you don't have to worry about kinking tubing. If you can get the rod in annealed form it will be much easier to work with than heat treated rod like 6061-T6 which is more common. A map gas torch can also help to anneal the sections you're bending. If you mark off and heat up the sections where you're going to bend and let them cool down slowly you remove the heat treatment from the aluminum.

An alternative is to use galvanized steel conduit, but 3/4" OD is between conduit sizes and if you're going for accuracy the conduit does not look right. There are also small aluminum straps welded between the two bands which will be problematic to do with steel because of the need to remove the galvanized coating on the conduit and rusting issues afterwards.

There are gold chem film coated aluminum P clamps that secure the perforated aluminum mesh to the bands, and there should also be an 1/8" layer of plexi glass sandwiched between the ends of the clamps for the correct look, even if you're not planning on lighting up the flux bands. The clamps are measured in 1/16" increments and originally came with a layer of cushioning rubber on them, similar to the clamps that you see screwed into the panels of the car. The correct size flux band clamps are size -10 (5/8") measuring to the inside diameter of the clamp if there were rubber cushioning present. With the rubber removed a size -10 clamp has the correct 3/4" inner diameter with enough gap for the aluminum perforated mesh and the plexi. If you do not plan on using plexi you may want to go down one size in clamp. You can find various sized clamps at mcmastercarr, grainger, electronics websites, and even some big box retailers but it will be difficult to find the correct aerospace style clamps with 'lightening" holes in them to reduce weight. For ultimate accuracy the restoration had to special order clamps from an aerospace clamp manufacturer in large quantity to match the original specs. If you are anywhere near a place that sells surplus aircraft parts/surplus that would also be a good place to search.

The exterior wire clamps with purple rubber cushioning also have the same lightening slots and were part of the large special order we had to place. Those are size -13 and have a purple rubber cushion. The same clamps are also used at the bottom of the SID (light up display behind the driver's seat).

I have the exact specs on the perforated aluminum mesh you'll need, but I don't have any of my reference files on this computer so I'll get back to you on that one.

The rubber isolation blocks that mount the bands to the car were custom made for the car and not a found part. We machined a master part out of aluminum (could also use wood) and then made a silicone mold and poured castings in rubber. You could also cut them from thick sheets of rubber if you have a local water jet cutting place or create a cookie cutter type stamp out of sheet metal and die cut them out using a shop press.

Mark D
04-25-2016, 09:13 AM
I'm planning on making a replica digital speedometer sometime soon. I can't seem to find any dimensions/drawings of it online anywhere. Does anyone know a source for this? I really just need the dimensions of the box and the size of the 7 segment LED displays.

Thanks!


The digital speedo box is made from Hammond enclosure PN 1591CGY.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/1591CGY/?qs=savM97goi5jqoDygdYdvPg%3D%3D

The original was actually blue so production painted it white. The gray enclosure is close in color that you wouldn't need to paint it or you can still paint it satin white. The connector on the back is a D-sub type connector like you'd find on an old printer cable. There are various types you can buy on Newark.com, mouser.com, etc that are close, I don't have a source for any that are identical to the screen used connector.

The digital displays were originally made by Stanley Readout and are basically extinct at this point since they're ancient technology. Most people use 7 segment LED displays that look pretty accurate if you put a sheet of acetate film over the displays to act as a diffuser. I made a speedo a long time ago and used 1/16" styrene sheet to build the little black frame around each digit. The black border is part of the Stanley Readout on the real car, but you can make a close approximation of the real thing with polystyrene around an LED display and paint it black.

Here's a CAD model of how the original was constructed showing the Stanley Readout housings. If you're going for super accuracy people have made plastic castings of the stanley bodies and then made matching circuit boards with grain of wheat size incadecent bulbs or warm LED's. It also requires manufacturing a clear lens and as well.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=7639&d=1325896787


Here's a stanley readout housing minus the clear lens, diffuser, or circuit board.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=7638&d=1325896785

The speedo was originally 3 digits and would read XX.X Apparently the third 1/10 MPH digit made reading the display confusing so production put a piece of black gaffer's tape over the 3rd digit so you only see XX.

The images above are all I have available at the moment, but I can post some better reference if you need it.

Mark D
04-25-2016, 09:26 AM
Good luck... I asked the same question here and was basically told to pound sand.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11228-BTTF-Time-Machine-Build-Questions-Ask-Me-Anything&p=191064&viewfull=1#post191064

However, I met a guy on Facebook building a replica... he was more than happy to share a bunch of info on what the parts are and even sources for getting them - he even sold me some rare parts that he had extra of. I'll ask him if I can share his contact info with you. I'm sure it won't be a problem as he's a really helpful guy.

Cheers
Steve

I'm not sure why you continue to post negative comments in this thread. I've said multiple times that if you have a specific question all you have to do is ask and I'll do my best to answer whatever I can. I don't know everything there is to know, nor do I have every single piece of information needed to build a 100% accurate car. There are literally thousands of parts that go into building an accurate replica. It took two dozen guys more than a year to restore the A car and no one person holds every single piece of information in a single comprehensive document. I was lucky enough to be a part of the restoration and I want to share whatever I can with people.

So please, ask a specific question and I'll do whatever I can to answer it for you. Hint: "Tell me everything" is not specific enough.

RamblinDMC
04-25-2016, 09:55 AM
This is great thank you! I would love to have that CAD model if possible! Do you know if there is an accurate CAD model of the Flux as well?

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk

Rich W
04-25-2016, 10:22 AM
Mark, and others,
Thanks for sharing whatever pieces you can within reason. I'm a new owner, only 10 months into it and I enjoy the puzzle-building challenge of it, much like as a kid putting the model cars together. Now, if there's a simplicated parts list you can share, or pictures of your builds, I'd appreciate it so when going to car shows against Mustangs/Chargers/Corvettes, and representing the DeLorean/BTTF fan base, it's closer to 95% solution than stuck at 40% because 30 years after the movie it's hard to know what parts to look for, even substitutes or look alike stuff would be great. Yes, we all want to make our fan-home-replica project cars as much like the movie as possible for accuracy. So for the few of us working on everything from scratch with no professional staff, (mine is mostly help from friends & grandkids & a welder on exhaust vents), where do you recommend going to get the flux band tubes (like national hardware chain?) (WHAT SIZE tube, aluminum??) and the stainless steel mesh (?) and the rubber pieces that hold it all to the car?

Thoughts on best tool to bend the tubes into right curves configuration?

Will any of you be attending the big national Delorean Convention in Springfield, Illinois this summer with your replicas? Hope to meet you there! Thank you very much!

Stan-PushN 88

Hi Stan,

My friend and fellow DMC club member Tom "McFly" Sedor with have his 100% temporary and reversible Time Machine conversion at DCS 2016 and he will be giving a presentation.
If you want to "hold off" on some of your purchases of parts until you see the presentation (and the Q&A session afterward), you may have a lot more of your questions answered.

While Tom's Time machine conversion is not 100% screen accurate, I'm sure its 88% or better and completely reversible in a few hours (half day?), with no interior or external holes
drilled in any panels. The only non-reversible modifications were done, were to a spare engine cover that I supplied to Tom, to attach the vents and the plutonium chamber base.

No glass was removed (rear glass and both rear quarter glass remain installed). The quarter glass does cause a little glare in direct sunlight, but otherwise, it is not much of an issue.

Night photo taken at the Adler Planetarium on Chicago's Lake Front, with the skyline in the background.

41697

Thanks,
Rich W.

Mark D
04-25-2016, 10:41 AM
Here's a link to the data sheet that contains all the dimensions for the hammond enclosure that I used to make the CAD. I'm pretty sure a 3D STEP file is available from Hammond if you check their website or just email them. The full assembly CAD is not mine to share since I do not own the Stanley Readout model file. I can post the overall dimensions of the display though so you can make some LED displays that are the same size. Or if you're just looking for the size of the cutout you need to make in the enclosure let me know.

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/177/1591C-67011.pdf


A CAD model for the flux capacitor enclosure can be downloaded at the stahlin website, just enter the model number J1210HPL number here:
http://www.stahlin.com/Stahlin_CFML/Stahlin_Inquiries/CADFamilies.cfm

I can answer pretty much any question you have about the flux capacitor itself and list off PN's or dimensions of the internal parts. There are a million details in this one prop so let me know what kind of help you're needing.

Ikeaboy1
04-25-2016, 11:05 AM
I'm not sure why you continue to post negative comments ...

Because why take the trouble to answer someones question when you can just lambast someone else for not answering for you?

RamblinDMC
04-25-2016, 04:09 PM
Here's a link to the data sheet that contains all the dimensions for the hammond enclosure that I used to make the CAD. I'm pretty sure a 3D STEP file is available from Hammond if you check their website or just email them. The full assembly CAD is not mine to share since I do not own the Stanley Readout model file. I can post the overall dimensions of the display though so you can make some LED displays that are the same size. Or if you're just looking for the size of the cutout you need to make in the enclosure let me know.

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/177/1591C-67011.pdf


A CAD model for the flux capacitor enclosure can be downloaded at the stahlin website, just enter the model number J1210HPL number here:
http://www.stahlin.com/Stahlin_CFML/Stahlin_Inquiries/CADFamilies.cfm

I can answer pretty much any question you have about the flux capacitor itself and list off PN's or dimensions of the internal parts. There are a million details in this one prop so let me know what kind of help you're needing.

Thanks so much for the info! I was wondering about thee cutout dimensions of the readouts. I plan on using some LED displays coupled to an Arduino. Once the speedometer project is done, I'll start on the Flux.

Thanks!
Jayce

Mark D
04-25-2016, 04:44 PM
OK cool, that won't be a problem at all, I'll pull open the model file and snap a few dimensions for you.

StanMan PushN 88
04-25-2016, 09:44 PM
Hi Stan,

My friend and fellow DMC club member Tom "McFly" Sedor with have his 100% temporary and reversible Time Machine conversion at DCS 2016 and he will be giving a presentation.
If you want to "hold off" on some of your purchases of parts until you see the presentation (and the Q&A session afterward), you may have a lot more of your questions answered.

While Tom's Time machine conversion is not 100% screen accurate, I'm sure its 88% or better and completely reversible in a few hours (half day?), with no interior or external holes
drilled in any panels. The only non-reversible modifications were done, were to a spare engine cover that I supplied to Tom, to attach the vents and the plutonium chamber base.

No glass was removed (rear glass and both rear quarter glass remain installed). The quarter glass does cause a little glare in direct sunlight, but otherwise, it is not much of an issue.

Night photo taken at the Adler Planetarium on Chicago's Lake Front, with the skyline in the background.

41697

Thanks,
Rich W.

Sounds great Rich! I've already got my hotel reservation and look forward to meeting you and Tom and all the other wonderful folks coming in from around the country to SPRINGFIELD, Illinois!!!!

mluder
04-26-2016, 04:05 AM
I'm not sure why you continue to post negative comments in this thread. I've said multiple times that if you have a specific question all you have to do is ask and I'll do my best to answer whatever I can. I don't know everything there is to know, nor do I have every single piece of information needed to build a 100% accurate car. There are literally thousands of parts that go into building an accurate replica. It took two dozen guys more than a year to restore the A car and no one person holds every single piece of information in a single comprehensive document. I was lucky enough to be a part of the restoration and I want to share whatever I can with people.

So please, ask a specific question and I'll do whatever I can to answer it for you. Hint: "Tell me everything" is not specific enough.

I don't think I'm posting negative comments... Some one basically asked the same question I did and I responded by telling him what happened when I asked.

I think my complaint's pretty straight forward... I asked if there was some kind of master parts list - a spreadsheet identifying every found part. Most replica prop builders develop stuff like this when they know they may need access to the info again. You said there was one, that you had it, but that you weren't willing to share it. I think that's unfortunate.

Many people in the prop community are more than happy to share their research and will gladly publish parts list and how-to assemble videos, etc. Others are not so community minded and keep things close to the chest like it's there's alone to know. I guess I just don't understand that attitude. To reiterate a point I made earlier... The vinyl that covers the interior panels on the DeLorean is lost to time at this point... No one is sure exactly who made it and what the pattern was, etc. Now, imagine someone finds a source for an identical vinyl but they decide to keep it to themselves. After all, why should they share it, they did all the leg work. That's kinda what I'm getting from you.

It's nothing personal, I just don't understand it. You have your reasons, and it's your business. I don't hold it against you and I hope that you don't take it that way... we don't all have to agree on everything.

Cheers
Steven

aotmfilms
05-03-2016, 12:42 PM
Hi Stan,

My friend and fellow DMC club member Tom "McFly" Sedor with have his 100% temporary and reversible Time Machine conversion at DCS 2016 and he will be giving a presentation.
If you want to "hold off" on some of your purchases of parts until you see the presentation (and the Q&A session afterward), you may have a lot more of your questions answered.

While Tom's Time machine conversion is not 100% screen accurate, I'm sure its 88% or better and completely reversible in a few hours (half day?), with no interior or external holes
drilled in any panels. The only non-reversible modifications were done, were to a spare engine cover that I supplied to Tom, to attach the vents and the plutonium chamber base.

No glass was removed (rear glass and both rear quarter glass remain installed). The quarter glass does cause a little glare in direct sunlight, but otherwise, it is not much of an issue.

Night photo taken at the Adler Planetarium on Chicago's Lake Front, with the skyline in the background.

41697

Thanks,
Rich W.

If I cannot go, (can't get away from work as of today), can he post the Q & A on here for us that cannot make it? It would be cool to go but I just got a new Boss and it's tough to get away right now as how I am working some projects for work. Thank you if you can. I understand if you cannot.

I hope to make it though.

"Living the Dream!"

--Doug

Citizen
05-03-2016, 06:48 PM
My friend and fellow DMC club member Tom "McFly" Sedor with have his 100% temporary and reversible Time Machine conversion at DCS 2016 and he will be giving a presentation.
[SNIP]

Hey Rich (or anyone that may know),

Is this reversible time machine VIN 5754? (Just wonder'in, so to update my records).

Thanks.
Thomas

...

Hissem
05-11-2016, 10:00 PM
Hey Rich (or anyone that may know),

Is this reversible time machine VIN 5754? (Just wonder'in, so to update my records).

Thanks.
Thomas

...
No VIN 5754 is my time machine and it is reversible. You can go to the HISSEM page to see all what this time machine is about.

Citizen
05-13-2016, 09:19 PM
No VIN 5754 is my time machine and it is reversible. You can go to the HISSEM page to see all what this time machine is about.

So then, does anyone know the VIN of the reversible BTTF car Rich was referring to?

...

RamblinDMC
06-23-2016, 12:05 PM
Does anyone have a CAD file depicting the time circuits? Or at least dimensions/measurements?

Mark D
06-23-2016, 01:23 PM
I posted some info a few replies back:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11228-BTTF-Time-Machine-Build-Questions-Ask-Me-Anything&p=164166&viewfull=1#post164166

The link to LMB heeger appears to no longer work, here's a new one direct to the correct crown royal series boxes:

http://lmbheeger.com/cr852-bluegrey.aspx

The dimensions for the LMB boxes are 8.5 x 2.125 x 1.625.

RamblinDMC
06-23-2016, 10:48 PM
These are the boxes that contain the LED displays? I'm planning on using the water jet at my school to make the metal case. What are recommended dimensions of the aluminum case? I also plan on 3D printing the keypad.

Mark D
06-24-2016, 03:47 PM
These are the boxes that contain the LED displays? I'm planning on using the water jet at my school to make the metal case. What are recommended dimensions of the aluminum case? I also plan on 3D printing the keypad.

Yes these are the actual LMB enclosures they used on the screen used cars. You'll need three total and there is a face plate that is mounted to the front of each box that has the labels and colored gels attached to it.

The aluminum outer case is sized to fit around the three enclosures stacked on top of eachother. The outer case is made from three pieces of 1/8" 6061 Aluminum sheet welded together along the top edges.

Timebender
07-07-2016, 06:35 PM
To add to that, Gary Weaver has a thread here as well with downloadable dxf files for any CNC machine here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7632-Wanting-to-destroy-your-DMC-Here-is-a-good-place-to-start

smcguiga
07-27-2016, 04:34 PM
I've got my Polara hub cap on its way and getting the vents and engine cover laser cut this week. What is a good replacement for the oil separators and connecting hoses? I'm wanting to at least get the most noticeable rear pieces together soon and then work my way to the harder to find parts later.

Mark D
07-29-2016, 01:39 PM
I've got my Polara hub cap on its way and getting the vents and engine cover laser cut this week. What is a good replacement for the oil separators and connecting hoses? I'm wanting to at least get the most noticeable rear pieces together soon and then work my way to the harder to find parts later.

Oil separators are getting quite a bit harder to find in recent years. If you're familiar with NSN searches you can try looking up 1650-00-535-3104

Attached is a photo of the part ID tag showing the AN part number and manufacturer part number. If you cant find real ones people have made castings and other home-made replicas.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=44935&d=1469813071

The blue weatherhead crossover tubes are also extremely rare these days. I don't have the PN handy at the moment but I can look it up if you want to try and search for a real one. Castings and replicas are out there and can be painted with metalcast paint to look almost as good as a real tube. I haven't heard of anyone stumbling across any in the wild lately so a casting may be your best bet.

100% accurate Part I accurate oil separator to trapezoid hoses have never been found in the wild and have to be made to look correct. People have machined the correct size hose ends and crimped on the correct style double braided stainless hose. You could also make these yourself or substitute hoses that are close. Usually a trip to Norton Sales or Luky's is involved to find something nearly correct.

The corrugated aluminum ducts that connect the sides of the oil seps to the front of the vents can be found at your local auto shop, such as NAPA. Here's a link ...I think the diameter is 1.5" or 2" but I'd have to double check that one as well.

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NDP8191127/

smcguiga
08-15-2016, 03:05 PM
Hey Mark, you mentioned to me at the convention that you had a template you could send for the rubber brackets. Can you post that here or send it to me. I think I am going to create one out of wood and then make molds. Thanks!

Mark D
08-15-2016, 08:30 PM
Hey Mark, you mentioned to me at the convention that you had a template you could send for the rubber brackets. Can you post that here or send it to me. I think I am going to create one out of wood and then make molds. Thanks!

Hey Steve, I just sent you an email with some info. :thumbup2:

Hoverboy
08-21-2016, 11:26 AM
Thanks for all the great info Mark! Would you able to confirm the various locations and dimensions of the Zero can enclosures on the car?

Mark D
08-21-2016, 11:49 PM
Thanks for all the great info Mark! Would you able to confirm the various locations and dimensions of the Zero can enclosures on the car?

Sure I've got a list of all the zero cans you need to order, shoot me a PM with your email and I can send you some photos and info about each one.

mluder
08-22-2016, 05:56 PM
Sure I've got a list of all the zero cans you need to order, shoot me a PM with your email and I can send you some photos and info about each one.
Can I get in on this action? Same for the dimensions of the rubber flog band holders?

Steve

marty85
08-27-2016, 10:37 AM
The flux bands are 3/4". The mesh can be purchased at tons of places(Amazon.com, even) but i can't recall the correct hole size/spacing. I'm sure that info is out there on the internets.

The rubber brackets you'll need to custom make or find someone who can make or has a set to sell.

You can purchase a lot of stuff here for your car
http://www.bobspropshop.com/companystore_bttf.html

drewguillory
09-01-2016, 10:19 PM
Hey Mark, there are a few open questions from our email conversation.. I figured it would be more beneficial to post them here, so that the information is public/available to the community (at your discretion, of course)

1. From what I can tell, there are (3) 9-position (11 counting the screw holes) single-row terminal strips/blocks located on the rear of the car. There are many different types available online. Do you have a part number, or the specific brand? Are all 3 exactly the same? They have "butterfly" metal tabs that the wires connect to - are these a part of the strip itself, or are they added on?

Passenger side terminal strip, next to the 2 zero cans - Where do the rear row of wires lead off to? It looks like they run down under the engine cover. The front row of wires run through the black split loom, but to where?

2. Blue tube/pipe that connects the 2 oil separators - name/part number? Probably impossible to find, so are dimensions available?

The 2 Janitrol clamps that secure the tube to the separators - part number/size?

3. Metal hose located on driver side pontoon - I believe this is a Hydraflow brand. Do you know the part number? Do the various rear deck hoses come as-is, or do they need to be modified with the correct end fittings?

4. Large orange and black "tiger" hose (located on rear bulkhead) - brand/part number?

5. 2 vented black boxes that sit on top of the binnacle - any info on these little guys? Where to get them?

Mark D
09-02-2016, 03:25 PM
Hey Mark, there are a few open questions from our email conversation.. I figured it would be more beneficial to post them here, so that the information is public/available to the community (at your discretion, of course)

1. From what I can tell, there are (3) 9-position (11 counting the screw holes) single-row terminal strips/blocks located on the rear of the car. There are many different types available online. Do you have a part number, or the specific brand? Are all 3 exactly the same? They have "butterfly" metal tabs that the wires connect to - are these a part of the strip itself, or are they added on?

Passenger side terminal strip, next to the 2 zero cans - Where do the rear row of wires lead off to? It looks like they run down under the engine cover. The front row of wires run through the black split loom, but to where?

2. Blue tube/pipe that connects the 2 oil separators - name/part number? Probably impossible to find, so are dimensions available?

The 2 Janitrol clamps that secure the tube to the separators - part number/size?

3. Metal hose located on driver side pontoon - I believe this is a Hydraflow brand. Do you know the part number? Do the various rear deck hoses come as-is, or do they need to be modified with the correct end fittings?

4. Large orange and black "tiger" hose (located on rear bulkhead) - brand/part number?

5. 2 vented black boxes that sit on top of the binnacle - any info on these little guys? Where to get them?

I don't have all my info in front of me at the moment, but I'll answer what I can and look up the rest of the info...I should be around this weekend to update the answers below:

1. I'll have to check on quantity and brand of the terminal strips used. I know there are couple more double row terminal strips used throughout the car as well. The spade tabs that the wires mount to are separate parts and can be purchased as straight, 45, or 90 deg variations. For example, the terminals next to the Janitrol on the bulkhead have both a 90 and 45 spade connectors on each terminal, the 90's facing upwards and the 45's facing downwards. I've got more info I can post on these. I don't think the exact parts are available anymore, but people have made castings of accurate ones that when fully assembled are virtually indistinguishable from the real thing.

The wiring from the terminal strip next to the zero cans on the PS routes through a black corrugated duct secured by 3 purple clamps on the pontoon and then disappears into the 'void' behind the bulkhead where the car's relay/fuse compartment is. Nothing actually routes into the engine compartment...since he back window is removed this area of the car's interior is actually exposed to the outside elements.

2. The crossover tube that connects the two oil separators (w/ annodized blue end fittings was originally manufactured by Weatherhead, now a division of eaton. The correct end fittings are no longer available new so the only options at this point are to find an original NOS tube in a junk yard somewhere, or use a casting. The castings turn out surprisingly well and the color of the end fittings can be matched with Metalcast anodizing paint. I can look up the PN and post it, but I don' think any have been found in a long time.

3. The clamps that mount the crossover tubes to the separators are a "Marman" type clamp, I don't think I have the exact PN for this one. It's a somewhat common type of clamp so most replica builders find some that are close at scrap yards.

4. The orange/black duct that attaches to the bulkhead (is clamped to the elbow on top of the flux capacitor) is a corrugated exhaust duct, It's made by a few different companies, you may need to compare against photos to see which is the closest. I think I may have purchased from here in the past, I can't remember without doing some extra digging

http://www.new-line.com/hose/ducting-vacuum-hose/rubber-ducting-air-ventilation-hose/blackorange-thermoflex-rfh-w-ducting-with-external-wear-strip

5. The vented black boxes were a found item, I don't think anyone has ever found the exact part in the wild. The real ones were measured and photographed at one point and various people have made replicas. I bought a set from a replica builder a long time ago. The bases are machined out of aluminum billet and the upper cover is bent aluminum sheet with louvers stamped into it. I can take some basic measurements if you're just looking to get close.

cpistocco
09-05-2016, 11:34 PM
Hello Folks
Can anyone recommend the best place to purchase flux bands and rear exhaust vents? I am looking to begin some BTTF mods that are strictly for static displays. I eventually want to do an easily reversible conversion, and I thought that this might be a good place to start.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Charlie

drewguillory
09-05-2016, 11:56 PM
I don't have all my info in front of me at the moment, but I'll answer what I can and look up the rest of the info...I should be around this weekend to update the answers below:

1. I'll have to check on quantity and brand of the terminal strips used. I know there are couple more double row terminal strips used throughout the car as well. The spade tabs that the wires mount to are separate parts and can be purchased as straight, 45, or 90 deg variations. For example, the terminals next to the Janitrol on the bulkhead have both a 90 and 45 spade connectors on each terminal, the 90's facing upwards and the 45's facing downwards. I've got more info I can post on these. I don't think the exact parts are available anymore, but people have made castings of accurate ones that when fully assembled are virtually indistinguishable from the real thing.

The wiring from the terminal strip next to the zero cans on the PS routes through a black corrugated duct secured by 3 purple clamps on the pontoon and then disappears into the 'void' behind the bulkhead where the car's relay/fuse compartment is. Nothing actually routes into the engine compartment...since he back window is removed this area of the car's interior is actually exposed to the outside elements.

2. The crossover tube that connects the two oil separators (w/ annodized blue end fittings was originally manufactured by Weatherhead, now a division of eaton. The correct end fittings are no longer available new so the only options at this point are to find an original NOS tube in a junk yard somewhere, or use a casting. The castings turn out surprisingly well and the color of the end fittings can be matched with Metalcast anodizing paint. I can look up the PN and post it, but I don' think any have been found in a long time.

3. The clamps that mount the crossover tubes to the separators are a "Marman" type clamp, I don't think I have the exact PN for this one. It's a somewhat common type of clamp so most replica builders find some that are close at scrap yards.

4. The orange/black duct that attaches to the bulkhead (is clamped to the elbow on top of the flux capacitor) is a corrugated exhaust duct, It's made by a few different companies, you may need to compare against photos to see which is the closest. I think I may have purchased from here in the past, I can't remember without doing some extra digging

http://www.new-line.com/hose/ducting-vacuum-hose/rubber-ducting-air-ventilation-hose/blackorange-thermoflex-rfh-w-ducting-with-external-wear-strip

5. The vented black boxes were a found item, I don't think anyone has ever found the exact part in the wild. The real ones were measured and photographed at one point and various people have made replicas. I bought a set from a replica builder a long time ago. The bases are machined out of aluminum billet and the upper cover is bent aluminum sheet with louvers stamped into it. I can take some basic measurements if you're just looking to get close.


Thanks for the info Mark. It's funny that they decided to leave a gaping hole in the bulkhead, even for a giant movie prop. What if bad weather were to suddenly hit during filming? I suppose the crew had ways to quickly cover the car.

The back row of wires I was curious about can be seen in this photo:

46152

Where do those suckers venture off to? I'm pretty sure this is the A-car.

3. You're right, the Marman (or "Marmon") clamps are relatively common. I often see them on Ebay but never know which size to buy.

4. Thanks for the link! I found several companies that sell them, but only in bulk :(
I'm waiting to hear back from a couple of places.. fingers crossed that they'll be willing to sell by the foot. Which, it looks like I'll only need a foot. I'll take an educated guess and say the inner diameter is 3". Is this correct?

I had no idea it was actually clamped to the flux elbow! In fact, I had no idea the interior and exterior bulkhead were the same piece! This explains the random screw ends and nuts that can be spotted. I always assumed it was 2 separate bulkheads, which is what I've done in my car (mostly for weatherproofing).

Do you know any contacts that would be willing to sell the various castings you mentioned? While I'm capable of building stuff from scratch, the level of detail and accuracy would never compare to solid casts of screen-used parts.

mluder
09-06-2016, 02:47 AM
Hello Folks
Can anyone recommend the best place to purchase flux bands and rear exhaust vents? I am looking to begin some BTTF mods that are strictly for static displays. I eventually want to do an easily reversible conversion, and I thought that this might be a good place to start.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Charlie

The flux bands are quite literally the most difficult part to fabricate and are essentially hand bent tubing through trial and error fitting them as you go... so finding someone who can make some for you may be difficult. Also, if you're looking to do something reversible you will first need to decide how to mount them. The original way is with special brackets (mentioned above) that are attached to the car with screws - not easily reversible.

I made my static display time machine parts from plywood, and stuff I found at Home Depot and Lowes as well as an old hubcap shop. My louvers are made from gator board which is a more rigid form of foam core. The drawback to this scenario is it takes two vehicles to get me to a show... I drive my car and a helper drives another vehicle with the time machine parts because everything would come apart at speed.

Here's what mine looks like...
46160461614616246163

Cheers
Steve

cpistocco
09-06-2016, 09:54 AM
The flux bands are quite literally the most difficult part to fabricate and are essentially hand bent tubing through trial and error fitting them as you go... so finding someone who can make some for you may be difficult. Also, if you're looking to do something reversible you will first need to decide how to mount them. The original way is with special brackets (mentioned above) that are attached to the car with screws - not easily reversible.

I made my static display time machine parts from plywood, and stuff I found at Home Depot and Lowes as well as an old hubcap shop. My louvers are made from gator board which is a more rigid form of foam core. The drawback to this scenario is it takes two vehicles to get me to a show... I drive my car and a helper drives another vehicle with the time machine parts because everything would come apart at speed.

Here's what mine looks like...
46160461614616246163

Cheers
Steve

YES! That looks great! I am going for that kind of look. BUT maybe with flux bands too. I want to do a non-destructive conversion for shows (comicons, etc). Easy on....easy off.
-Charlie

cpistocco
09-08-2016, 09:13 PM
You can purchase a lot of stuff here for your car
http://www.bobspropshop.com/companystore_bttf.html

Getting in touch with Video Bob is like getting hold of the president. We are just peons!

EngineerGuY
09-09-2016, 08:30 AM
Getting in touch with Video Bob is like getting hold of the president. We are just peons!


Better question why buy from him at all? I contacted him years ago about visiting his shop, as I was in the area for business. He blew me off and was pretty rude as well. There is enough info on the interwebs about him so I guess I don't need to beat a dead horse :smackbum:

mluder
09-09-2016, 12:23 PM
Getting in touch with Video Bob is like getting hold of the president. We are just peons!

Reach out to Danny Botkin at DMC CA...
You could also try Bruce Coulombe... I think he's in Florida.

Both are nice guys and do good work.

Cheers
Steve

aotmfilms
09-09-2016, 12:24 PM
Better question why buy from him at all? I contacted him years ago about visiting his shop, as I was in the area for business. He blew me off and was pretty rude as well. There is enough info on the interwebs about him so I guess I don't need to beat a dead horse :smackbum:

To be fair, he's been cool with me, sometimes distant.

As for the shop visit, I would guess go during one of his openhouses. Just follow his "Bobpropshop" page on FB.

--Doug

EngineerGuY
09-09-2016, 01:05 PM
To be fair, he's been cool with me, sometimes distant.

As for the shop visit, I would guess go during one of his openhouses. Just follow his "Bobpropshop" page on FB.

--Doug

lol I have ZERO interest in seeing Bob or his shop. This was YEARS ago, when the main forum for bttf conversions was Gary's bttfparts.com, when much of this wasn't as "popular" as it is now. He's even more of an ass now than he was then, and that is hard to do! Regardless, I'm happy you haven't had any issues with him, you seem to be one of very few :rofl:

cpistocco
09-10-2016, 11:24 AM
Thanks Guys. I have always been impressed with the way this Delorean community pulls together and helps each other. It is truly amazing to see such comradery. It is too bad that some people just don't understand that.
We wont let one or two bad apples spoil the whole bunch.
-Charlie

aotmfilms
09-12-2016, 03:35 PM
lol I have ZERO interest in seeing Bob or his shop. This was YEARS ago, when the main forum for bttf conversions was Gary's bttfparts.com, when much of this wasn't as "popular" as it is now. He's even more of an ass now than he was then, and that is hard to do! Regardless, I'm happy you haven't had any issues with him, you seem to be one of very few :rofl:

Naw, I just know how to work with people from different backgrounds and I keep it a business transaction. You get all friendly, that's when you get screwed. Keep it business and its all good :)

smcguiga
10-10-2016, 05:00 PM
Does anyone have a source for the switches and indicators for the overhead panel? Or at least dimensions of them for an ebay search? I have plenty of pictures showing the layout but nothing that I can find shows the actual size of the switches and indicators.

Thanks!

Mark D
10-12-2016, 02:37 PM
Does anyone have a source for the switches and indicators for the overhead panel? Or at least dimensions of them for an ebay search? I have plenty of pictures showing the layout but nothing that I can find shows the actual size of the switches and indicators.

Thanks!


Check your email, I forwarded you some info.

Hoverboy
10-20-2016, 12:45 PM
On the subject of the overhead console, what is the rounded rectangular frame thing that goes around the Grimes emergency light? Did it originally come with the light or was it separate? And if so, do you have any suggestions for how to replicate it accurately? I was able to score the light a few months ago but I haven't seen much info about the frame. Thanks!

Mark D
10-20-2016, 05:01 PM
On the subject of the overhead console, what is the rounded rectangular frame thing that goes around the Grimes emergency light? Did it originally come with the light or was it separate? And if so, do you have any suggestions for how to replicate it accurately? I was able to score the light a few months ago but I haven't seen much info about the frame. Thanks!

In real life the grimes light is a rechargeable emergency flashlight and there is a base that mates up with the light to supply power for charging the internal battery. The "ring" around the grimes light on the console is meant to look like the real base. There isn't room for a real base to fit unless you carve out a hole in the overhead console and the headliner behind it. Most people opt to create a replica ring around the light like they did for the screen used cars.

Somewhere out there are casings of the screen used ring that you can buy, otherwise it's not really that complicated of a shape to make your own out of a piece of wood or polystyrene.

smcguiga
10-26-2016, 03:07 PM
So what are these things and what are most people doing to replicate these? Making them a solid part or actually pieces and hollow as they are on the car? Starting out I think I am just going to make some simple solid models for the hockey pucks. Can you give some dimensions of these parts? Mainly just the thickness and diameter and angle of the cut out? Also, these aren't just mounted to 1/8" aluminum like the caps are. What is the base made of and dimension of it as well?

Mark D
10-26-2016, 04:50 PM
So what are these things and what are most people doing to replicate these? Making them a solid part or actually pieces and hollow as they are on the car? Starting out I think I am just going to make some simple solid models for the hockey pucks. Can you give some dimensions of these parts? Mainly just the thickness and diameter and angle of the cut out? Also, these aren't just mounted to 1/8" aluminum like the caps are. What is the base made of and dimension of it as well?

The pacman parts are made up of 4 main components:

The "Puck" itself is an unknown component that has never been identified "in the wild" but has been painstakingly replicated by TMR to exact specs. The puck is made up of about 2 dozen smaller parts... It's a hollow aluminum housing with a separate roller assembly inside, covered with a flat plate.

The "Cone" that is internal to the Puc is a drawer pull handle. The exact source of the originals is unknown but it has also been replicated in the past using measurements from the real one.

The upper portion of the base is a drawn aluminum enclosure (manufactured by Zero company) that is trimmed to look like a dished out square plate with curved edges. Part No. ZT68-68B-0.56

The lower portion of the base is an ash tray housing from a DC-10 aircraft. It was pretty heavily modified to remove the outer flange and some of the other features so it fits flush to the zero can on top. Part No. 293-5002

.
.
.
If you want to build close approximations and not go crazy with the detail on the internal guts of the pucks you can save lots of time, money and effort.

To answer your specific questions:
Puc diameter is 3" with a height of 1 7/16" when fully assembled.

The angle of the wedge shaped cutout is 30 degrees.

I'll have to look up the exact dimensions for the height of the assembled base. I'll post some additional info here with a few pictures and basic overall dims.

Mark D
10-31-2016, 09:23 AM
Here are some overall dimensions of the complete assembly. If you're looking to build some basic replicas this should have all the required dimensions to get you there.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=47004&d=1477920099

smcguiga
10-31-2016, 09:35 AM
Here are some overall dimensions of the complete assembly. If you're looking to build some basic replicas this should have all the required dimensions to get you there.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=47004&d=1477920099

Awesome! Thanks!

Knightlife2
12-02-2016, 04:20 PM
Awesome! Thanks!

What is the correct PN for the ashtray is it 293-5002 or 293-5000?

Mark D
12-02-2016, 08:38 PM
293-5002 is the lower part of the ash tray base that is actually needed.

The photo on the right shows the unmodified base 293-5002. On the left is a modified base that has been attached to the zero can top.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=47588&d=1480728820


Here's what just just the modified base would look like from the other side with no zero can attached to it.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=47586&d=1480728818


293-5000 is the complete ash tray assembly that also contains the actual tray insert:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=47587&d=1480728818

If you buy 293-5000 you'll need to remove the tray insert and modify as above.

powerline84
12-22-2016, 10:40 AM
Probably and easy question but there are so many tire threads I can't find a definitive answer. What size tires and brand model tires where on the origional a model time machine front and rear ?

Mark D
12-22-2016, 02:47 PM
The screen used cars were originally built with the stock Goodyear NCT's installed (235/60/15 rear, 195/60/14 front) but were swapped to outline white lettered Goodyear Eagle GT's (245/60/15 rear, 195/60/14 front). Note the slightly larger size on the rear than stock.

powerline84
12-22-2016, 03:09 PM
The screen used cars were originally built with the stock Goodyear NCT's installed (235/60/15 rear, 195/60/14 front) but were swapped to outline white lettered Goodyear Eagle GT's (245/60/15 rear, 195/60/14 front). Note the slightly larger size on the rear than stock.

Awesome I like the look and plan to replicate it on my car. The sizes that is. I wish you could still get white letter eagle gt'size for front

Mark D
12-22-2016, 03:27 PM
Awesome I like the look and plan to replicate it on my car. The sizes that is. I wish you could still get white letter eagle gt'size for front

Yeah the Eagle GT's with OWL are long out of production and even finding solid white letter tires is difficult. I know a few guys here have used white tire paint to fill in the letters on their tires, or there are places you can order special rubber stickers to stick on your tires for the white letter effect. Tirestickers.com is one of those places worth checking out.

Josh
12-22-2016, 05:56 PM
Awesome I like the look and plan to replicate it on my car. The sizes that is. I wish you could still get white letter eagle gt'size for front

You can get cooper cobras for the front if you look around. They are discontinued but I found a stack of 20 at a local tire shop last year. So im running RWL all around and 245s on the back. Love it!

sdg3205
12-23-2016, 03:02 AM
You can get cooper cobras for the front if you look around. They are discontinued but I found a stack of 20 at a local tire shop last year. So im running RWL all around and 245s on the back. Love it!

I called them back not too long ago and all those tires were gone.

Did you paint the fronts like me or did you actually get legit RWL 195's?!

sdg3205
12-23-2016, 03:03 AM
The screen used cars were originally built with the stock Goodyear NCT's installed (235/60/15 rear, 195/60/14 front) but were swapped to outline white lettered Goodyear Eagle GT's (245/60/15 rear, 195/60/14 front). Note the slightly larger size on the rear than stock.

What was the reason for this? just aesthetics?

Josh
12-23-2016, 09:18 AM
I called them back not too long ago and all those tires were gone.

Did you paint the fronts like me or did you actually get legit RWL 195's?!

Yeah I scooped up most of them quick haha.
I painted my letters on, I dont think Cooper ever made RWL 195s.

sdg3205
12-23-2016, 09:45 AM
I got one back up set. I should be good for 20 years. They actually did make a 195 with legit RWL. I have one. My bud in the tire biz gave it to me. Only has 50% tread left but could be swapped on in the event of a bad enough blow out.

Mark D
12-27-2016, 11:32 AM
What was the reason for this? just aesthetics?

I don't have a verified answer from anyone at universal why they swapped to the Eagle GT's.

Several theories include:

The Goodyear NCT's were recalled due to poor traction in cold/wet conditions, so it's possible before filming started the tires on the cars were swapped to comply with the recall.

Or the stock tires could have already been partially warn so production could have just wanted a fresh set. The filming schedule called for stunt scenes (burnouts, high speed driving, etc) so before they started to film they could have given the cars a once over to prevent issues that would potentially interrupt filming.

Or there could have been a product placement agreement with Goodyear and the NCT's were black wall and wouldn't have shown up on screen. The white letter Eagle GT's would show up on camera better and were also a performance tire worth marketing.

nullset
12-28-2016, 02:13 PM
I got one back up set. I should be good for 20 years. They actually did make a 195 with legit RWL. I have one. My bud in the tire biz gave it to me. Only has 50% tread left but could be swapped on in the event of a bad enough blow out.

It is absolutely not safe to use a tire that has been sitting for 10+ years. I hope you're joking.

sdg3205
12-28-2016, 02:21 PM
It is absolutely not safe to use a tire that has been sitting for 10+ years. I hope you're joking.

No. Im not joking. New, never-mounted tires stored properly (though not as good as any new rubber of course) are not the risk they're made out to be. Would I pull a used tire out of a landfill after 10 years? No. I worked for a tire shop and recycler at one point in time and learned a lot about tires.

FYI - 90% of mexico is running around on old, used Canadian and American tires that get sold and exported south of your border. There are standards that must be met, but they are older, used tires none the less.

powerline84
12-28-2016, 03:18 PM
48025
My buddy is trying to build this. Anyone that's done this can you pm me with details that you have? I saw in the thread about the boxes and led.s still have questions on the dial pad. Dimensions of assemblies etc.
Thanks,
Jimmy

Mark D
12-28-2016, 03:55 PM
48025
My buddy is trying to build this. Anyone that's done this can you pm me with details that you have? I saw in the thread about the boxes and led.s still have questions on the dial pad. Dimensions of assemblies etc.
Thanks,
Jimmy


All of the TRW keypads came from APEX electronics in Sun Valley, CA. They are the only source and held the last remaining stock of keypads when TRW liquidated their stock sometime in the 70's or 80's. Last I checked on their ebay page they had a few up for sale, although in needs of different types of repair. The green housings are pretty fragile and require cutting to fit exactly as they did in the screen used cars. Most people opt for a casting of the green housing and use the guts out of an original TRW pad, or use a similar keypad from GTE. The buttons/indicators can also be cast, or people use real ones out of a legit keypad assembly.

So you've either got to find a real one and scavenge it for parts, or find someone with castings of a real one.

Or if you're not interested in accuracy any number of keypads are out there. Phone pads are a standard size for the most part, so you can cruise around ebay or electronics websites to see what's out there.

For the actual time circuit display enclosures I posted PN's a few pages back in this thread, and as I stated before, accurate sized LED displays with the correct digit height DO NOT CURRENTLY EXIST. You can get close with commercially available parts but height of the characters on the display will either be under or oversized depending on which way you want to go.

TMR is working on making the correct LED displays available again but there are large tooling costs involved and huge minimum order quantities to make it economically feasible. A company called TFX has been working with TMR and there is a time circuit clock in the works that has accurate display electronics.

powerline84
12-28-2016, 06:27 PM
Awesome Sir thanks a bunch!

"What The Flux?"
12-31-2016, 07:15 AM
Hi Mark,

I was wondering if you are able to offer some detailed dimensions for the T-195 Radio Vent that sits on the back please? If you have a cross-section or cut-through that would be awesome!

Thank you!

Mark D
01-03-2017, 10:06 AM
Hi Mark,

I was wondering if you are able to offer some detailed dimensions for the T-195 Radio Vent that sits on the back please? If you have a cross-section or cut-through that would be awesome!

Thank you!

I have info on this that I can share, just none at my fingertips at the moment. I'll post some measurements and additional info when I can.

"What The Flux?"
01-15-2017, 07:42 AM
I have info on this that I can share, just none at my fingertips at the moment. I'll post some measurements and additional info when I can.

Thanks Mark, any help appreciated

DavidProehl
01-15-2017, 08:16 AM
Here are some T-195 Radio Vent reference photos I found on Gary's FB page with some measurements:

https://www.facebook.com/pg/bttfparts/photos/?tab=album&album_id=640314762757990

Mark D
01-16-2017, 09:20 PM
Thanks Mark, any help appreciated

Looks like the photos that were posted are better reference than the mockup CAD model that I created. It's really just a placeholder and I forgot that I never went back and did a full on detailed model for it. If you're just looking for basic photos and overall dims what you're looking for is there in the pics.

Otherwise the vents do pop up on ebay from time to time, or there are places online that deal with old radios that might be able to sell you just the vent cover if you want to buy a legit one.

Bob635
01-17-2017, 11:08 AM
I have been to APEX and the two other surplus stores where many of the original BTTF parts were sourced. I also have copies of the numerous original invoices for many of the original sourced parts.

Realistically, non of these parts are available at any of these sources any more. They were surplus items that existed in the 1980s and are long gone. (Even in the "expensive item trailer" - that is restricted access.).

I think it is great that people are reproducing these parts.

However, I have a problem with people claiming their cars are "screen accurate." ALL THREE ORIGINAL BTTF CARS WERE SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT FROM EACH OTHER.

The "perfect" parts and cars you find today and also NOT reflective of a custom built Time Machine - made by a mad scientist in his garage. His car would simply not look that good!

The fact that Terry and Olivers car looks "beat up" because of the 100,000 miles they have driven-makes it the closest looking to a "mad scientist-garage built time machine."

Bob

Mark D
01-18-2017, 10:33 AM
I have been to APEX and the two other surplus stores where many of the original BTTF parts were sourced. I also have copies of the numerous original invoices for many of the original sourced parts.


Can you expand on this more? Are you saying you have copies of invoices from Filmtrix/USH from when they purchased parts for production in 1984?


Realistically, none of these parts are available at any of these sources any more. They were surplus items that existed in the 1980s and are long gone. (Even in the "expensive item trailer" - that is restricted access.).


This is mostly true, but places like APEX are finding stuff all the time and listing it on ebay. Just a few months ago there were half a dozen TRW keypads for sale from APEX. For hoses, places like Luky's may not have the exact hose that is needed but you can scrounge through the pile and buy one or more hoses just for the end fittings and they can crimp these ends on new hose to the correct length as long as the correct size crimp (ferrule) is available.


I think it is great that people are reproducing these parts.

However, I have a problem with people claiming their cars are "screen accurate." ALL THREE ORIGINAL BTTF CARS WERE SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT FROM EACH OTHER.

It's awesome what people have come up with in terms of castings or 3D printed replica parts. I also agree that the term "Screen Accurate" is tossed around way to liberally in most cases. You can say you have a screen accurate part if it's the exact vintage part used as the production cars, but as you noted there were differences between the three cars in terms of not only parts but how the parts were mounted to the car. Almost no one has ever built a 100% screen accurate replica. The best a person can really say is as close to screen accurate as possible, and then you should really specify if it was built to look like the A, B, or C car or some combination of the three. One of the main things most people don't consider when touting screen accuracy is the mounting locations of everything on the rear deck, bulkhead panels and the fiberglass pontoons. Positioning of the parts is just as important as the actual parts themselves and it takes an incredible amount of knowledge to get it exactly correct.



The "perfect" parts and cars you find today and also NOT reflective of a custom built Time Machine - made by a mad scientist in his garage. His car would simply not look that good!

The fact that Terry and Olivers car looks "beat up" because of the 100,000 miles they have driven-makes it the closest looking to a "mad scientist-garage built time machine."

Attaining that aged/weathered effect is difficult for most people to achieve, so outside of years of actual use and weathering a lot of replicas do look too new and clean compared to what they should. Years of research went into correctly weathering the A car during the restoration so it would accurately appear as it did when it first rolled out of Doc's truck.

Bob635
01-18-2017, 12:05 PM
Mark,

Thanks for your accurate description that no BTTF Delorean is Truely "screen accurate" because each A, B, C car was slightly different. And that most Time Machines look new.

I was very impressed with the work done on the A car restoration, but as you know, even this car is not restored to "exactly" how it was used in the movie. (e.g. numbered months.)

One question, I pose to people about the "screen accurate" car. Did the movie give the illusion that the BTTF Delorean was a hot rod engine? Clearly, the exhaust tone was NOT a PRV engine.
So should a "screen accurate" car have a hot rod engine? The "Delorean" in BTTF III was a hot rod engine -albeit a VW- BUT is was not a PRV. So exactly what is a "screen accurate" Time Machine?

What really bothers me with this situation is that there are certain Time Machine owners, who rent their car, and who are going around "bad mouthing" other people's time machines- claiming that theirs is the only "screen accurate" car, making them huge amounts of money and not sharing this benefit with other D owners who had the dedication to do this conversion.

After all these years, since 1995, when I negotiated with Universal Studios to get the permission for people to build Time Machines, without getting sued, now I hear of serious infighting amongst different Time Machine owners. I negotiated this permission for everyone to share, NOT FOR CERTAIN people to hoard.

As for the copies of the invoices for parts, these came from Kevin Pike, way back in the early 1990s, when I was researching and obtaining parts to build the first Time Machine - hot rod- Delorean.

As you know, 2 years ago, I also developed the wheel conversion parts for this car to make it look like a BTTF III car, and reproduced the parts for the Pepsi box, using my 3D printer, and old radio tubes and electronics from the 1950s.

I share this cars with people who come to Delorean Weekend to inspire them to maintain and upgrade their Delorean to "Live the Dream."

Over the years, I have admired all the work you did to develop Time Machine parts, especially with all the LED and PLC components that exist today. I was limited by TTL logic back in the 90s.

My Current "Dream Delorean" project is another attempt to share my experience with other D owners to update their cars. As JZD said to me back in Cleveland when studying my full size power windows. "You a damn good engineer. If I had had more people like you, I would still be in business."

I always remember him saying this to me, and continue to try to live up to his expectations.

"What The Flux?"
01-21-2017, 08:02 AM
Looks like the photos that were posted are better reference than the mockup CAD model that I created. It's really just a placeholder and I forgot that I never went back and did a full on detailed model for it. If you're just looking for basic photos and overall dims what you're looking for is there in the pics.

Otherwise the vents do pop up on ebay from time to time, or there are places online that deal with old radios that might be able to sell you just the vent cover if you want to buy a legit one.


Here are some T-195 Radio Vent reference photos I found on Gary's FB page with some measurements:

https://www.facebook.com/pg/bttfparts/photos/?tab=album&album_id=640314762757990

Thank you both for your guidance. I was somewhat hesitant to have to refer to that particular FB page for information, but measurements are measurements I guess. I was just enquiring as I know that Mark has some very useful resource and experience in this area and have observed that he is very keen to help.

@Bob365 I appreciate your comments and found them interesting to read. I believe that the politics of other known builders and their motives is perhaps better saved for another forum as I don't think it's really related to the objective of Marks thread here. He has stated "Ask Me Anything", but I'm not sure he meant the more negative aspects of the community. I think there are enough pages ruined by bullshit disputes and personal dislikes and its a pain to have to wade through all of the unimportant, unrelated shit to find the really useful, valid information. Just saying...

Mark D
01-27-2017, 01:50 PM
Mark,

Thanks for your accurate description that no BTTF Delorean is Truely "screen accurate" because each A, B, C car was slightly different. And that most Time Machines look new.

I was very impressed with the work done on the A car restoration, but as you know, even this car is not restored to "exactly" how it was used in the movie. (e.g. numbered months.)

One question, I pose to people about the "screen accurate" car. Did the movie give the illusion that the BTTF Delorean was a hot rod engine? Clearly, the exhaust tone was NOT a PRV engine.
So should a "screen accurate" car have a hot rod engine? The "Delorean" in BTTF III was a hot rod engine -albeit a VW- BUT is was not a PRV. So exactly what is a "screen accurate" Time Machine?

What really bothers me with this situation is that there are certain Time Machine owners, who rent their car, and who are going around "bad mouthing" other people's time machines- claiming that theirs is the only "screen accurate" car, making them huge amounts of money and not sharing this benefit with other D owners who had the dedication to do this conversion.

After all these years, since 1995, when I negotiated with Universal Studios to get the permission for people to build Time Machines, without getting sued, now I hear of serious infighting amongst different Time Machine owners. I negotiated this permission for everyone to share, NOT FOR CERTAIN people to hoard.

As for the copies of the invoices for parts, these came from Kevin Pike, way back in the early 1990s, when I was researching and obtaining parts to build the first Time Machine - hot rod- Delorean.

As you know, 2 years ago, I also developed the wheel conversion parts for this car to make it look like a BTTF III car, and reproduced the parts for the Pepsi box, using my 3D printer, and old radio tubes and electronics from the 1950s.

I share this cars with people who come to Delorean Weekend to inspire them to maintain and upgrade their Delorean to "Live the Dream."

Over the years, I have admired all the work you did to develop Time Machine parts, especially with all the LED and PLC components that exist today. I was limited by TTL logic back in the 90s.

My Current "Dream Delorean" project is another attempt to share my experience with other D owners to update their cars. As JZD said to me back in Cleveland when studying my full size power windows. "You a damn good engineer. If I had had more people like you, I would still be in business."

I always remember him saying this to me, and continue to try to live up to his expectations.

I try not to get into the screen accuracy debates anymore, but you're right that it's something that is open for interpretation depending on which version (A, B, or C) a person is building. Some people interpret screen accuracy as literally what you see on the screen (including special effects & sounds) and some interpret it more along the lines of how accurate something is to the physical prop as it was constructed and not necessarily including some of the movie magic effects. I think the line is blurred somewhere between the two personally.

The infighting seems to have quieted down some in the BTTF builders community... I hope it can continue on a path where people are more freely able to share information without all the issues we've experienced in the past. The point of this thread was to try and share whatever I could while the restoration was still fresh in my memory.

It's pretty epic that you got the nod of approval from John Z on your roll down windows. I remember being just a kid and seeing pics of your car and thinking how awesome it was that you were able to re-engineer them the way you did.

It's also a cool story to hear about how Kevin Pike hooked you up with some of the old invoices for parts from the build. Is that something you'd be willing to share photos or scans of? At this point the collective community has figured out nearly every part on the car, but it would be really cool to see some of that old historical info.

drewguillory
01-31-2017, 03:27 AM
Any info on the various "elbow" connectors?
(3 on the rear driver side, 1 on top of the VSR, 2 on the oxygen bottle box, several on flux capacitor)

Mark D
01-31-2017, 12:20 PM
The elbows are "Cannon" brand military spec connectors w/ 90 deg shell. There are two different sizes, PN's 3108B20 AND 3108B32. Some come with a green coating while others have a silver coating. It's also an option to buy all green and sand blast or chemically strip off the coating to reveal the raw silver color underneath.


In total you'll need:

(Size 32's)
2 silver/unplated for bailout bottle box
1 green plated for Flux Capacitor

(Size 20's)
3 green for DS pontoon
1 silver/unplated for VSR
1 silver/unplated for Flux Capacitor

Chances are you'll find lots of parts under those PN's but they'll be Amphenol brand connectors and not Cannon. They're all made to the same mill spec under the same PN but only the Cannon brand connectors are correct. The only exception to this is the C-car flux capacitor which uses a size 32 amphenol connector on the side instead of the Cannon style.

A few more notes about the PN's... What I have listed above are the base part numbers, but when searching you'll need the -tabulation at the end which specifies numbers of pins, and if it's a plug or a socket. Since the connectors don't actually connect into anything meaningful on the car plug/socket style and pins do not matter.

So for example the PN you'd want to search for might look like 3108B20-16S. The PN breaks down as:

3108B (Connector series, 90 deg right angle plug)
20 (AN size)
16 (number of pins)
S (Socket)

You'll also need the plastic dust caps that would normally protect the pins/sockets. To mount the parts to the car typically production used a screw to mount the dust cap, and simply inserted the plug into the dust cap. There wasn't much else holding the parts in place besides the friction between the plug and dust cap, so they tended to fall off and go missing pretty easily. For replica cars you can secure them better by disassembling the connector, drilling through the internal socket to mount with a nut and bolt, and then reassembling the connector around the socket. Essentially you're adding a stud to the connector that you can secure with a nut to whatever it's getting attached to.

Each plug is made up of about a dozen smaller pieces. In some cases you may only be able to find a seller with the correct shell and you'll have to source the strain relief at the top part of the connector and the dust cap separately. Here's an exploded view of a size 20 connector for reference:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48744&d=1485882737

The connectors can be crazy expensive, and the few sources that were found back in the day with lots of parts in stock were quickly depleted. Your best source for searching now are websites that allow NSN searches for military/aerospace parts. Every great once in a while real ones will pop up on ebay. Or you can find someone who's selling castings.

If you have any other questions or need clarification on anything let me know.

drewguillory
02-01-2017, 05:43 PM
Awesome, this helps a lot. Thanks Mark.

cpistocco
02-02-2017, 11:00 PM
Hello
I was wondering if anyone out there would be able to provide measurements/ dimensions (maybe CAD) for a set of screen-accurate exhaust vents, and engine cover. I intend to use 1/8 inch aluminum. I stumbled on some cad designs by Mr Weaver, but I don't think his are screen accurate ( Exhaust vents do not seem to drop below rear bumper cover). Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Charlie

mluder
02-02-2017, 11:11 PM
Hello
I was wondering if anyone out there would be able to provide measurements/ dimensions (maybe CAD) for a set of screen-accurate exhaust vents, and engine cover. I intend to use 1/8 inch aluminum. I stumbled on some cad designs by Mr Weaver, but I don't think his are screen accurate ( Exhaust vents do not seem to drop below rear bumper cover). Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Charlie

Gary's drawings are what I used to make mine. The original vents were built with the lower portion removable because it actually hooks under the upper lip on the rear fascia. If it were all one piece you wouldn't be able to lift the engine cover. At any rate the parts are there in his drawings.

Sort of like this but the real one hooks under - not just a diagonal cut. See the seam?
48766

Here's a better example...
48767

And here's one where the bottom has been removed to open the cover.
48768



Somewhere I have a diagram identifying. I'll see if I can find it. Might be tomorrow because I think it's at work.

Cheers
Steve

Mark D
02-03-2017, 02:10 AM
The parts highlighted in red are the vent side pieces in Weaver's layout that extend downward over the tail lights. They're not form fit to the fascia like on the A car but they're close enough for most people.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48769&d=1486105583

On the A car the side pieces of the vents were originally form fit over the fascia and tight up against the tail lights to give the illusion that the fascia and tail lights were actually notched out and the vents were sticking through the fascia. In real life the form fit pieces had to be removed every time production wanted to access the engine during filming. After filming wrapped on Part III the transportation garage at Universal Hollywood modified the vents to notch out that bottom piece (similar to how Weaver has designed them) so the lower part of the vents stand off from the tail lights and will clear the fascia when the engine cover is opened.

cpistocco
02-03-2017, 11:37 AM
The parts highlighted in red are the vent side pieces in Weaver's layout that extend downward over the tail lights. They're not form fit to the fascia like on the A car but they're close enough for most people.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48769&d=1486105583

On the A car the side pieces of the vents were originally form fit over the fascia and tight up against the tail lights to give the illusion that the fascia and tail lights were actually notched out and the vents were sticking through the fascia. In real life the form fit pieces had to be removed every time production wanted to access the engine during filming. After filming wrapped on Part III the transportation garage at Universal Hollywood modified the vents to notch out that bottom piece (similar to how Weaver has designed them) so the lower part of the vents stand off from the tail lights and will clear the fascia when the engine cover is opened.

Very Interesting...
Thanks for the info. There is just one thing that I don't understand....
Why not design everything as one piece.....leaving out notch allows you to clear bumper cover either way. Why do it in 2 pieces?
Do you follow what I am saying?

Mark D
02-03-2017, 01:58 PM
Very Interesting...
Thanks for the info. There is just one thing that I don't understand....
Why not design everything as one piece.....leaving out notch allows you to clear bumper cover either way. Why do it in 2 pieces?
Do you follow what I am saying?

Yeah I get what you're saying. In this case it would have made sense to just design the side plates as one large piece since there is no reason to ever remove the lower section of the vents once assembled. I haven't gone through these CAD's in detail at all, but on the A car each of the four total side plates are slightly different to account for different holes that were drilled and to account for the curvature of the rear fascia. If you were to modify the side plates to combine the lower sections with the main upper sections to make them one piece you'd want to be sure to use the correct lower section with the correct upper section. In this CAD layout the lower sections might actually all the be the same, I'm not sure.

Other things in this CAD don't exactly match the screen used car but in terms of the final look when it's completely built it would be better than trying to start over from scratch. I don't think Weaver comes on this board anymore so if you have questions about his layout you'd be better off contacting him on his BTTFParts facebook page.

mluder
02-03-2017, 02:44 PM
I used Gary's CAD for min but then modified the bottom pieces to fit around the fascia. Because mine are from gator board I chose to permanently attach them to the main part of the vents. It works for me because I typically have to remove the vents completely to transport the whole thing. I don't drive with it in place so engine access is not an issue for me.
48789

BTW - if you are planning on having the engine cover cut our of metal too, make sure you don't forget the little wedges that weld to the edges to create a lip that sits over the ridge in the pontoon - just like the factory cover does.

Here's a more detailed pic of the reactor. Everything here is found at the home center. Note, I didn't worry too much that the plumbing hoses weren't exactly correct. My "oil separators" are empty engine coolant bottles I painted. The cross over tube fittings are PVC plumbing that I shaped on a bet sander, my alum hoses are too big, the hubcap is not screen accurate but was close enough, the reactor top is another hubcap piece, the heat sink fins around the reactor I fabricated from plywood.
48790

I have since got the correct hubcap and the Pioneer speaker grille that goes on the tachyon generator (both from E-bay)
48791

A close turbine for the top (from a friend) and the rubber mat used for the vent joint and on the tachyon gen (Amazon)
48792

The correct heat sinks (direct from supplier)
48793

I have found one oil separator (working on finding another) and have the correct aluminum hoses on order.

Let me know if you need any more help.
Cheers
Steven

cpistocco
02-04-2017, 12:00 AM
I am really enjoying how different people create these props in their own style.
It would be really interesting to start a thread entitled "Wormhole emitters" or "flux bands"....and see how everyone approached the same individual part. I'll bet there have been some really creative and different approaches used to skin the same cat!

Looking at some of these BTTF builds, I would have to think that the people who spend 50k on professional builds are missing out on a lot of the fun. ( Although if I had an extra 50 grand lying around, I would probably be tempted because those guys do some incredible work)!

cpistocco
02-04-2017, 12:08 AM
Mark,

Thanks for your accurate description that no BTTF Delorean is Truely "screen accurate" because each A, B, C car was slightly different. And that most Time Machines look new.

I was very impressed with the work done on the A car restoration, but as you know, even this car is not restored to "exactly" how it was used in the movie. (e.g. numbered months.)

One question, I pose to people about the "screen accurate" car. Did the movie give the illusion that the BTTF Delorean was a hot rod engine? Clearly, the exhaust tone was NOT a PRV engine.
So should a "screen accurate" car have a hot rod engine? The "Delorean" in BTTF III was a hot rod engine -albeit a VW- BUT is was not a PRV. So exactly what is a "screen accurate" Time Machine?

What really bothers me with this situation is that there are certain Time Machine owners, who rent their car, and who are going around "bad mouthing" other people's time machines- claiming that theirs is the only "screen accurate" car, making them huge amounts of money and not sharing this benefit with other D owners who had the dedication to do this conversion.

After all these years, since 1995, when I negotiated with Universal Studios to get the permission for people to build Time Machines, without getting sued, now I hear of serious infighting amongst different Time Machine owners. I negotiated this permission for everyone to share, NOT FOR CERTAIN people to hoard.

As for the copies of the invoices for parts, these came from Kevin Pike, way back in the early 1990s, when I was researching and obtaining parts to build the first Time Machine - hot rod- Delorean.

As you know, 2 years ago, I also developed the wheel conversion parts for this car to make it look like a BTTF III car, and reproduced the parts for the Pepsi box, using my 3D printer, and old radio tubes and electronics from the 1950s.

I share this cars with people who come to Delorean Weekend to inspire them to maintain and upgrade their Delorean to "Live the Dream."

Over the years, I have admired all the work you did to develop Time Machine parts, especially with all the LED and PLC components that exist today. I was limited by TTL logic back in the 90s.

My Current "Dream Delorean" project is another attempt to share my experience with other D owners to update their cars. As JZD said to me back in Cleveland when studying my full size power windows. "You a damn good engineer. If I had had more people like you, I would still be in business."

I always remember him saying this to me, and continue to try to live up to his expectations.
I would absolutely love to see a video of the full power windows.....That must be an engineering marvel! How can you keep the doors balanced????

cpistocco
02-04-2017, 12:21 AM
I used Gary's CAD for min but then modified the bottom pieces to fit around the fascia. Because mine are from gator board I chose to permanently attach them to the main part of the vents. It works for me because I typically have to remove the vents completely to transport the whole thing. I don't drive with it in place so engine access is not an issue for me.
48789

BTW - if you are planning on having the engine cover cut our of metal too, make sure you don't forget the little wedges that weld to the edges to create a lip that sits over the ridge in the pontoon - just like the factory cover does.

Here's a more detailed pic of the reactor. Everything here is found at the home center. Note, I didn't worry too much that the plumbing hoses weren't exactly correct. My "oil separators" are empty engine coolant bottles I painted. The cross over tube fittings are PVC plumbing that I shaped on a bet sander, my alum hoses are too big, the hubcap is not screen accurate but was close enough, the reactor top is another hubcap piece, the heat sink fins around the reactor I fabricated from plywood.
48790

I have since got the correct hubcap and the Pioneer speaker grille that goes on the tachyon generator (both from E-bay)
48791

A close turbine for the top (from a friend) and the rubber mat used for the vent joint and on the tachyon gen (Amazon)
48792

The correct heat sinks (direct from supplier)
48793

I have found one oil separator (working on finding another) and have the correct aluminum hoses on order.

Let me know if you need any more help.
Cheers
Steven
That really looks awesome. I cant believe how good it looks from using "every-day" items!

Bob635
02-04-2017, 12:07 PM
I would absolutely love to see a video of the full power windows.....That must be an engineering marvel! How can you keep the doors balanced????

Here is the link to the 45 minute video on installing full size power windows in a Delorean.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1S5KZhPozJc

Enjoy!

Bob

"What The Flux?"
02-05-2017, 07:55 PM
Hello
I was wondering if anyone out there would be able to provide measurements/ dimensions (maybe CAD) for a set of screen-accurate exhaust vents, and engine cover. I intend to use 1/8 inch aluminum. I stumbled on some cad designs by Mr Weaver, but I don't think his are screen accurate ( Exhaust vents do not seem to drop below rear bumper cover). Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Charlie

I can confirm that from my experience of Mr Weavers CAD file, the rear vents are most definitely inaccurate. They're not bad, they're just not accurate. The screw positions are wrong (look at the screw positions of the rear edge screws, they are not close enough to the rear edge). I am also aware that Mr Weaver purposefully produces inaccuracies (which he shares publically) in order for him to spot people who have used his reference. Hardly useful at all if you are trying to re-produce screen accurate parts. I would certainly recommend clarifying with Mark first if he is able to assist. I would use Mr Weavers CAD file with a great deal of scepticism and caution.

I would love to know if anyone can offer some exact screw measurements and positions for the rear vents though?

cpistocco
02-05-2017, 08:32 PM
Here is the link to the 45 minute video on installing full size power windows in a Delorean.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1S5KZhPozJc

Enjoy!

Bob

That was incredible. It reminds me of a photo that I once saw of an early prototype delorean. (I think that this particular car had sliding horizontal windows).

I am working on designing and building "air scoops" that can be placed in the rear of the open toll booth window. These scoops would channel fresh air into the passenger compartment......a much needed "breath of fresh air"!

cpistocco
02-05-2017, 08:38 PM
I can confirm that from my experience of Mr Weavers CAD file, the rear vents are most definitely inaccurate. They're not bad, they're just not accurate. The screw positions are wrong (look at the screw positions of the rear edge screws, they are not close enough to the rear edge). I am also aware that Mr Weaver purposefully produces inaccuracies (which he shares publically) in order for him to spot people who have used his reference. Hardly useful at all if you are trying to re-produce screen accurate parts. I would certainly recommend clarifying with Mark first if he is able to assist. I would use Mr Weavers CAD file with a great deal of scepticism and caution.

I would love to know if anyone can offer some exact screw measurements and positions for the rear vents though?

I had this discussion with Mark on the previous page (pg16). It would appear that Mr Weaver's exhaust vent designs are the best (and only) available on this forum. Please let me know if I am wrong.
Thanks
Charlie

"What The Flux?"
02-06-2017, 05:48 AM
I had this discussion with Mark on the previous page (pg16). It would appear that Mr Weaver's exhaust vent designs are the best (and only) available on this forum. Please let me know if I am wrong.
Thanks
Charlie

Unfortunately, to some degree I would say that you are correct... for now. I definitely wouldn't consider them "the best", I'm sure there are many other people who have far more accurate information that is not in the public domain. Having seen Mark taking very precise measurements of the rear vents on the OUTATIME restoration documentary (which I HIGHLY recommend if you don't have it already!), I would really say that he is the true authority when it comes to the accuracy of the rear vents. If it helps the community, I don't mind adding dimensions to Mr Weavers CAD designs and asking if Mark would kindly verify/approve/amend the measurments as necessary (if he has the time or inclination of course!). I'm sure it would be very helpful to at least have some useful dimensions locked down for the rear vents.

Mark D
02-06-2017, 03:09 PM
At the moment I do not have the ability to share all of the rear vent info related to the restoration. I did have the opportunity to measure the aluminum parts that make up the rear deck, vents, bulkhead, brackets, etc. but it's a lot of information in bits and pieces that isn't assembled yet in one master file. Some of the CAD files that I created have 'markups' that require corrections based comparisons made to the actual parts. The eventual plan is to make the final updates, put everything together on a CD, and the files will become a companion disc to a time machine related book that is in the works.

In addition to the files not being complete or updated to 100% accuracy, there are licensing issues to sort though with Universal.... so my hands are tied for several reasons.

Without getting into too much detail about what's different with Weaver's files vs the actual A car, I can say that some of the parts in his layout look to be designed to make the overall build simpler and easier to build than the A car was. It means less accuracy overall, but probably made it easier to build multiple replicas. For example, the louvers that attach to the rearmost part of the vents are supposed to be made from 6 individual squares of aluminum (per vent) mounted with two small pieces of angle aluminum per square, and two button head cap screws per angle. When all said and done it's a hell of a lot of clamping parts, welding plates to angle stock, drilling and tapping holes, etc. Weaver looks like he cut down on the number of pieces by making slotted plates that interlock together. Not accurate, but saves time if you're trying to build more than one replica and don't mind the parts being slightly different than the A car.

If you're looking for a good starting point to jump off from, Weaver's file is good place to start. There are ways to modify what he's shared to be more accurate as others have mentioned.

cpistocco
02-07-2017, 10:12 PM
At the moment I do not have the ability to share all of the rear vent info related to the restoration. I did have the opportunity to measure the aluminum parts that make up the rear deck, vents, bulkhead, brackets, etc. but it's a lot of information in bits and pieces that isn't assembled yet in one master file. Some of the CAD files that I created have 'markups' that require corrections based comparisons made to the actual parts. The eventual plan is to make the final updates, put everything together on a CD, and the files will become a companion disc to a time machine related book that is in the works.

In addition to the files not being complete or updated to 100% accuracy, there are licensing issues to sort though with Universal.... so my hands are tied for several reasons.

Without getting into too much detail about what's different with Weaver's files vs the actual A car, I can say that some of the parts in his layout look to be designed to make the overall build simpler and easier to build than the A car was. It means less accuracy overall, but probably made it easier to build multiple replicas. For example, the louvers that attach to the rearmost part of the vents are supposed to be made from 6 individual squares of aluminum (per vent) mounted with two small pieces of angle aluminum per square, and two button head cap screws per angle. When all said and done it's a hell of a lot of clamping parts, welding plates to angle stock, drilling and tapping holes, etc. Weaver looks like he cut down on the number of pieces by making slotted plates that interlock together. Not accurate, but saves time if you're trying to build more than one replica and don't mind the parts being slightly different than the A car.

If you're looking for a good starting point to jump off from, Weaver's file is good place to start. There are ways to modify what he's shared to be more accurate as others have mentioned.

OK Thanks
I am about to spend quite a few dollars on aluminum and laser cutting, and I just want to make sure that I am doing the right thing. For our purposes, Mr Weaver is as good as it gets???? Correct?

cpistocco
02-08-2017, 12:36 PM
Unfortunately, to some degree I would say that you are correct... for now. I definitely wouldn't consider them "the best", I'm sure there are many other people who have far more accurate information that is not in the public domain. Having seen Mark taking very precise measurements of the rear vents on the OUTATIME restoration documentary (which I HIGHLY recommend if you don't have it already!), I would really say that he is the true authority when it comes to the accuracy of the rear vents. If it helps the community, I don't mind adding dimensions to Mr Weavers CAD designs and asking if Mark would kindly verify/approve/amend the measurments as necessary (if he has the time or inclination of course!). I'm sure it would be very helpful to at least have some useful dimensions locked down for the rear vents.

It would be great if you could provide me with the additional dimensions. The more info, the better...

"What The Flux?"
02-10-2017, 09:35 AM
OK Thanks
I am about to spend quite a few dollars on aluminum and laser cutting, and I just want to make sure that I am doing the right thing. For our purposes, Mr Weaver is as good as it gets???? Correct?

I'm afraid for now, yes. I can definitely make some minor improvements right off the bat and if you're willing to hold fire for a minute, I can make the improvements and upload them here. An example of Mr Weavers inaccuracy is the rear plate of the part that the two oil sepators are attached to. Mr Weavers CAD file has that plate as vertical, perpendicular to the base. However, this plate is angled slightly on the A car. Unless I am mistaken, Mr Weaver did this purposefully so that he could spot "tells" that a builder had used his reference. Not cool if you're going for screen accuracy.

cpistocco
02-10-2017, 11:47 PM
I'm afraid for now, yes. I can definitely make some minor improvements right off the bat and if you're willing to hold fire for a minute, I can make the improvements and upload them here. An example of Mr Weavers inaccuracy is the rear plate of the part that the two oil sepators are attached to. Mr Weavers CAD file has that plate as vertical, perpendicular to the base. However, this plate is angled slightly on the A car. Unless I am mistaken, Mr Weaver did this purposefully so that he could spot "tells" that a builder had used his reference. Not cool if you're going for screen accuracy.

Thanks a million. I actually spoke with Mr Weaver on Facebook about this matter. He was very nice....and stated that his design was close, but not 100%...

Gary Weaver II
02-13-2017, 12:43 PM
After 15 years it never gets old seeing random anonymous people chime in with their expertise and act as if they know my motivations.

-Gary


I can confirm that from my experience of Mr Weavers CAD file, the rear vents are most definitely inaccurate. They're not bad, they're just not accurate. The screw positions are wrong (look at the screw positions of the rear edge screws, they are not close enough to the rear edge). I am also aware that Mr Weaver purposefully produces inaccuracies (which he shares publically) in order for him to spot people who have used his reference. Hardly useful at all if you are trying to re-produce screen accurate parts. I would certainly recommend clarifying with Mark first if he is able to assist. I would use Mr Weavers CAD file with a great deal of scepticism and caution.

I would love to know if anyone can offer some exact screw measurements and positions for the rear vents though?

"What The Flux?"
02-14-2017, 12:58 PM
After 15 years it never gets old seeing random anonymous people chime in with their expertise and act as if they know my motivations.

-Gary

I'm not about to tarnish yet another thread with stale, tired, boring arguments. There have been far too many useful threads ruined by the public disputes of Mr Weaver and others in the past.

My "chiming in" is to use the knowledge and expertise that I have learned over the years to help other builders and to learn new things myself. I may be random, anonymous and relatively new to this site, but I am definitely not new to the community or unaware of its history.

Mr Weaver, I know of your motivations far more than you are willing to confess to on an open and public forum. Whilst I will not dispute your willingness and effort to genuinely help other people/builders in the community (for free), it must also be said that you are very clearly motivated by money and the "business" of selling other builders your (hoarded) parts, often for substantial profit.

To return to my earlier points in this thread, I know for a fact (and so do you!) that you have purposefully left details inaccurate in your .dwg file to enable you to be able to tell who has used your material as reference. You yourself know from your own experience the amount of time and effort that it takes to research and discover accurate reference material, so for you to release a file that you know contains inaccurate information, just so that you can spot it later in somebody's build is deceptive and IMHO, kinda lame.

As I said at the start of this comment, I do not wish to engage in a bitter debate with you and don't even necessarily think that you're a bad guy, even if I do disagree with you releasing bogus material to the public.

Gary Weaver II
02-14-2017, 02:21 PM
The "I don't wanna fight, but will still throw a few barbs in my commentary" technique. Classy and predictable.

The sad fact of the matter is, the files I released were always posted as incomplete and a starting point for someone's build. I knew damn good and well they were incomplete/unfinished and am totally upfront with it.

I always intended to go back and rework certain details as I had more time and even perhaps add dimensions. However, I never went back on it because I realized there is not much of a point in giving that stuff away to people and I also didn't have the time or desire to revisit old projects.

I take issue with a few points you've brought up over the course of this thread, so please allow me to assist in clarifying a few things.

"Hoarding parts"? When have I ever? Can you please give an example or are you just making something up for effect?

"Putting tells in my files or on my parts". I've never done that intentionally in order to identify them as you stated earlier. I did my parts how I wanted to do my parts. Sometimes that meant doing parts a different way like the rear slotted vent louvres Mark pointed out. Or doing something for a casting to make it more reinforced for final castings. If those end up being details I can identify later when I see someone selling a cheap knock off or recast on their website, then so be it.

The front vertical plate on the reactor core? I finally figured it out after a while, but decided to just leave it in place on my file. To be honest, it was never a detailed I cared about too much. It's not like people go around yelling "see how PERFECT my car is? I have this bizarre angled plate no one can ever see or care about". Again, I didn't see too much of a reason to revisit that part of the project so never corrected it.

My lower rear plates on the vents? Designed like that on purpose so they can be cut down and trimmed to properly fit around the rear fascia and tail lights. It's IMPOSSIBLE to have one profile (or even four) to properly contour the rear of every Delorean. The end result needs a builder to change them to fit their own car and application. No conspiracy theory about tells or crap like that. Just being practical with the design.

I'm sure you've said more about other stuff in this thread, but those were the things that stuck out to me. I'd love to discuss it further, but I get the impression that's not your end goal here. Until you are willing to share with everyone exactly WHO you are I don't see any point to continue discussion here.

-Gary


I'm not about to tarnish yet another thread with stale, tired, boring arguments. There have been far too many useful threads ruined by the public disputes of Mr Weaver and others in the past.

My "chiming in" is to use the knowledge and expertise that I have learned over the years to help other builders and to learn new things myself. I may be random, anonymous and relatively new to this site, but I am definitely not new to the community or unaware of its history.

Mr Weaver, I know of your motivations far more than you are willing to confess to on an open and public forum. Whilst I will not dispute your willingness and effort to genuinely help other people/builders in the community (for free), it must also be said that you are very clearly motivated by money and the "business" of selling other builders your (hoarded) parts, often for substantial profit.

To return to my earlier points in this thread, I know for a fact (and so do you!) that you have purposefully left details inaccurate in your .dwg file to enable you to be able to tell who has used your material as reference. You yourself know from your own experience the amount of time and effort that it takes to research and discover accurate reference material, so for you to release a file that you know contains inaccurate information, just so that you can spot it later in somebody's build is deceptive and IMHO, kinda lame.

As I said at the start of this comment, I do not wish to engage in a bitter debate with you and don't even necessarily think that you're a bad guy, even if I do disagree with you releasing bogus material to the public.

Mark D
02-14-2017, 02:50 PM
Mods, since this topic is starting to derail can you please move some of these discussions to a more appropriate thread? Either create a new split topic off of this one or move to this old thread:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7632-Wanting-to-destroy-your-DMC-Here-is-a-good-place-to-start

A new thread may be a more appropriate place to have some of the discussions that are happening since that old thread is locked and what's being discussed here is no longer related to the original intent of this thread.

A lists of post numbers to please move includes 156-160, 163, 165, 167-176.

Thank you.

"What The Flux?"
02-14-2017, 04:30 PM
I don't see any point to continue discussion here.

-Gary

I have made my point perfectly clear and I don't see any point to continue this discussion either...

48942 48943

Gary Weaver II
02-14-2017, 04:51 PM
That is so cute. Pictures without context to "prove" your point. I still get a giggle out of that Krups pic. Here are some details are of course missing from your pics.

That's about 15 years worth of Krups grinder searches and hunts. Incomplete torn up units missing lids or cups, wrong color units, and a couple complete ones. A few weren't even mine if I recall correctly.

As for the Flux Capacitor Rob Roy boxes... Incorrect model, but happened to be the correct color. I believe I paid market price for those as well. I then spent a good number of months buying incorrect sized boxes with the correct latches off ebay to make them accurate. Also custom fabricated the correct hinges as well. The had all the backer boards, lenses, and windows laser cut. That was about two years ago IIRC.

And what's even more hilarious? I've haven't sold a one. I'm pretty sure those and all their add on bits are still sitting in my garage. Hard to argue that I've ripped anyone off or made any money off that "hoard".

More intriguing is that this community still doesn't know who you are. Nice of Mark to make his plea to remove the posts though. All I'm doing is responding truthfully to your disruptive commentary. It's almost as if you are sitting there waiting for me to respond to you baits in order to post things you feel may be publicly "damaging" to me.

It's not like we haven't seen that happen around here before :)

-Gary


I have made my point perfectly clear and I don't see any point to continue this discussion either...

48942 48943

Mark D
02-14-2017, 04:59 PM
Just to clarify, I would not like anything to be removed (as in deleted). Mods please just split this thread so that the off topic discussion can continue elsewhere.

Gary Weaver II
02-14-2017, 05:01 PM
Just to clarify, I would not like anything to be removed (as in deleted). Mods please just split this thread so that the off topic discussion can continue elsewhere.

I have no problem with that idea. However, I really don't see much of a benefit at all in trying to have a rational discussion with a ghost :) The mods can outright delete that stuff if they want to.

-Gary

cpistocco
02-14-2017, 10:20 PM
I'm just gonna quietly tip-toe outtta here... :)

EngineerGuY
02-15-2017, 09:51 AM
I'd kind of like to know who the mystery man is myself. Easy to call out someone's work and integrity via the internet when you can remain anonymous. :thumbdown:

"What The Flux?"
02-15-2017, 12:26 PM
My identity is of absolute insignificance to this site. I am not here to discuss my identity, I am here purely to discuss the A car, help fellow users (if I can) and learn interesting facts about the restoration from Mark D.

I have made comments with regard to the accuracy of Mr Weavers rear vent information (.dwg file) because the question was raised by another user. I have stated that the information is inaccurate and also that I am aware that Mr Weaver purposefully shared inaccurate information to be able to tell (at a later date) if a build was made using his reference. I am able to make both of these statements because I know with 100% fact (including evidence) that this was (one of) Mr Weavers motivations for leaving the information inaccurate. Whatever Mr Weaver states contrary to what I know to be factual is not only worthless, but absolutely pointless of further debate. (I do not waste my time debating with people who I know are being dishonest).

That is my last statement on the subject and I will not be coerced by either Mr Weaver or any of his affiliates (or anyone else) to discuss it further.

Gary Weaver II
02-15-2017, 12:48 PM
So what you're saying is that you won't tell this board who you are? Kinda makes you and the points you were trying to raise somewhat... pointless.

Honestly, that's fine by me. I see no point in trying to prove myself to a ghost.

Your comments serve no purpose but to cause problems which I strongly suspect was your goal all along.

Mods feel free to delete anything that you see fit to get Mark's thread back on course.

Thanks for playing.

-Gary


My identity is of absolute insignificance to this site. I am not here to discuss my identity, I am here purely to discuss the A car, help fellow users (if I can) and learn interesting facts about the restoration from Mark D.

I have made comments with regard to the accuracy of Mr Weavers rear vent information (.dwg file) because the question was raised by another user. I have stated that the information is inaccurate and also that I am aware that Mr Weaver purposefully shared inaccurate information to be able to tell (at a later date) if a build was made using his reference. I am able to make both of these statements because I know with 100% fact (including evidence) that this was (one of) Mr Weavers motivations for leaving the information inaccurate. Whatever Mr Weaver states contrary to what I know to be factual is not only worthless, but absolutely pointless of further debate. (I do not waste my time debating with people who I know are being dishonest).

That is my last statement on the subject and I will not be coerced by either Mr Weaver or any of his affiliates (or anyone else) to discuss it further.

Gary Weaver II
02-15-2017, 12:50 PM
I'd kind of like to know who the mystery man is myself. Easy to call out someone's work and integrity via the internet when you can remain anonymous. :thumbdown:

Certainly not the first rodeo for me and I doubt it will be the last. Some people just have nothing better to do than hide behind anonymous accounts and sock-puppets.

-Gary

mluder
02-15-2017, 03:53 PM
My identity is of absolute insignificance to this site. I am not here to discuss my identity, I am here purely to discuss the A car, help fellow users (if I can) and learn interesting facts about the restoration from Mark D.

I have made comments with regard to the accuracy of Mr Weavers rear vent information (.dwg file) because the question was raised by another user. I have stated that the information is inaccurate and also that I am aware that Mr Weaver purposefully shared inaccurate information to be able to tell (at a later date) if a build was made using his reference. I am able to make both of these statements because I know with 100% fact (including evidence) that this was (one of) Mr Weavers motivations for leaving the information inaccurate. Whatever Mr Weaver states contrary to what I know to be factual is not only worthless, but absolutely pointless of further debate. (I do not waste my time debating with people who I know are being dishonest).

That is my last statement on the subject and I will not be coerced by either Mr Weaver or any of his affiliates (or anyone else) to discuss it further.

This makes no sense... Why would Gary put intentionally put inaccuracies in his drawings to catch people using his material and then turn around and release that material to the general public? To what end? That's like leaving a $20 bill on the ground and announcing if any one wants it to take it, and then getting mad at someone for taking it.

I've had a few interactions with Gary and even bought something from him. His price was fair and I actually received more than I expected.
I have also used his drawings and they worked perfectly... I've no complaints. If the screws are in the wrong spot or other minor inconsistencies it's on my best interest as a builder to verify and modify as I see fit. Otherwise they seem perfectly serviceable. Kudos to him for being so generous... I guarantee you that guy in Dallas isn't sharing anything.

Cheers
Steve

EngineerGuY
02-16-2017, 08:47 AM
This makes no sense... Why would Gary put intentionally put inaccuracies in his drawings to catch people using his material and then turn around and release that material to the general public? To what end? That's like leaving a $20 bill on the ground and announcing if any one wants it to take it, and then getting mad at someone for taking it.

I've had a few interactions with Gary and even bought something from him. His price was fair and I actually received more than I expected.
I have also used his drawings and they worked perfectly... I've no complaints. If the screws are in the wrong spot or other minor inconsistencies it's on my best interest as a builder to verify and modify as I see fit. Otherwise they seem perfectly serviceable. Kudos to him for being so generous... I guarantee you that guy in Dallas isn't sharing anything.

Cheers
Steve


Spot on! :cheers:

minispeedstar
02-16-2017, 03:33 PM
This makes no sense... Why would Gary put intentionally put inaccuracies in his drawings to catch people using his material and then turn around and release that material to the general public? To what end? That's like leaving a $20 bill on the ground and announcing if any one wants it to take it, and then getting mad at someone for taking it.

I've had a few interactions with Gary and even bought something from him. His price was fair and I actually received more than I expected.
I have also used his drawings and they worked perfectly... I've no complaints. If the screws are in the wrong spot or other minor inconsistencies it's on my best interest as a builder to verify and modify as I see fit. Otherwise they seem perfectly serviceable. Kudos to him for being so generous... I guarantee you that guy in Dallas isn't sharing anything.

Cheers
Steve

Well said that man.

Gary W, has been helpful to me whenever I've had a question on replica building (as have others) and you can't deny the guy has talent. Just my pennies worth...

minispeedstar
02-17-2017, 04:52 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170217/efe96e26c290832cff49a72b07a953a4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170217/dc5c2ecbec9b4d867d3468c4f423884b.jpg

Can I ask who made up the Perspex cover for the TFC during the restoration? As they deserve to be shot!... lol.

Mark D
02-17-2017, 09:13 PM
Can I ask who made up the Perspex cover for the TFC during the restoration? As they deserve to be shot!... lol.

Can you be more specific? If you're saying there is something off, then what are you referring to? The shape? Fitment?

minispeedstar
02-18-2017, 12:01 AM
Doesn't appear to have been shaped very well, almost bulging around the top and sides, the overhang and also the fact it's split / corner missing by one of the screw holes.. wondered if it was more to be screen accurate but after looking at screen shots realised it isn't?...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170218/e0255e0666d39a77783f274571876a02.jpg

cpistocco
02-21-2017, 10:29 AM
Hello Mark
I have come to the conclusion that I will use Mr Weaver's Cad design. Is there any way that you (or someone else on the forum) could outline precisely which pieces are part of the exhausts. I am going to build those first (from 1/8 in aluminum).
Thank you...as always....for all of your assistance.
-Charlie

Mark D
02-21-2017, 11:42 AM
Hello Mark
I have come to the conclusion that I will use Mr Weaver's Cad design. Is there any way that you (or someone else on the forum) could outline precisely which pieces are part of the exhausts. I am going to build those first (from 1/8 in aluminum).
Thank you...as always....for all of your assistance.
-Charlie

If you want to just build the vents then cut everything on his layout minus those marked with a red X.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49104&d=1487695302

I would advise cutting everything at once though since you will typically be charged a minimum fee for a run of parts and it'll be cheaper to do it all at once vs multiple runs of parts. You'll at least want the engine deck as well as the vents so you have something to mount the vents to.

Just as important as having the piece parts for the vents are how the parts are supposed to be assembled. IE: how parts overlap, if corners are edge to edge or corner to corner when welding, etc. For that you'll need to contact Weaver since he designed the parts and knows how they are supposed to go together. I'm also not sure how his vents are intended to mount to the engine cover either.

For anyone else with questions regarding Weaver's layout please contact him directly on his facebook page

drewguillory
02-22-2017, 02:12 AM
Mark, could you elaborate on these various hoses? Part numbers, correct length, proper fittings, stock vs modified, correct diameter, etc. Thanks in advance!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170222/740df4a68090d8b45935bf067a2e06d6.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170222/58bc2dd4178334ecc6d55e5ff6c578b7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170222/b0206b948eccdc186af1c3a64020d73b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170222/019bdb2a647fabfb0ac33712e222d85b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170222/8fceb1e3b0d7ba35c325360653421abd.jpg

Mark D
02-22-2017, 10:29 AM
I could probably write a book just on all the hoses used... there is a lot to know about each one individually but I'll start with some basic info. A few are still available but most are either NLA or prohibitively expensive for the casual time machine builder. I've spent more time than I care to admit running NSN searches to find hoses that are close that can be cut apart and made to look correct. Most were originally purchased from Luky's in Burbank, CA. This place can still cut and crimp hose ends so if you find hoses with the right fittings but are too long, or only have one correct fitting you can frankenstein multiple hoses into one good one.

A while back I was talking with another member on the board and he created this image of the rear deck and assigned letters to each hose:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49114&d=1487775963

"A" - Hydraflow Bulkhead Hose(s) - These can be purchased to original spec direct from hydraflow. Super expensive though...like 300 bucks per hose. Need one on the side of the car and the same hose is mounted next to the flux capacitor in the inside of the car. The end fittings and crimping ferrules have slightly changed over the years but are pretty much the same as vintage hoses.

"B.1 and B.2" - Vent to Bulkhead - Large hoses from the side of the vents to the bulkhead are different PN's for each side. These can still be made to spec from the original supplier, I don't have the info handy at the moment for the supplier, but if you're interested I can dig it up. I think each hose was a couple hundred bucks.

"C" - Hydraflow Janitrol hose - This simply inserts into the Janitrol and the other end connects to a custom welded pipe fitting/bulkhead connector that is screwed into the bulkhead. The hose itself is similar to hose A but is a larger size. Same green nomex casing over the hose.

"D" - Flexible Aluminum Duct - Can be purchased from NAPA and other auto parts stores, pretty standard emissions hose.

"E" - Oil Separator to Trapezoid Hoses - These have to be hand made from scratch and are a huge pain in the ass to make correctly. Metal flexible inner hose covered by a special SS woven double outer braid. We've had to machine end fittings from scratch since they are not available anywhere.

"F" - Weatherhead crossover tube - Used to be plentiful at Luky's but have not been available for a long time. People have made castings of these that look just as real as the originals. The end fittings can be painted with "Metalcast" anodizing paint.

"G" - Vent to Vent - Small black inboard hoses w/ 45 deg fittings that bridge across the black strip on the vents. These also came from Luky's and no longer exist. The set I have was custom made by butchering together various different hoses that had the correct end fittings.

"H" - Reactor Duct - Black corrugated ducting connected to plastic/PVC elbows painted silver. Each requires a different type of clamp. Lots more to know on the hose and clamps. If you want accuracy.

"I" - "Vent to Deck" - Small stainless hoses with 90 fittings originally came from Luky's. These don't exist anymore either with the correct type of end fittings. The set I have was butchered together using longer hoses with the fittings cut off and then crimped back on a shorter hose.

"J" - CAT Ducting - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cat.php - I'll have to look up the correct size. This same ducting is used on the interior of the car along the center console.

"K" - Orange and black exhaust duct - Connects to 90 deg elbow on flux capacitor through the bulkhead.


OTHERS NOT LABELED:

Hydraflow reactor hoses - These are the four reactor hoses that connect around the ring of the reactor and fit between the heatsinks. The far ends connect to the oil separators. These can be purchased from hydraflow or XRP to specs that are close to the originals. $100-$200 per hose though. Vintage ones are almost impossible to find in the the correct size, AN-5 so AN-6 reproduction are one option. The correct hoses have a single black spiral tracer that runs the length of the hose, the repros are either solid green or have a double yellow tracer.

Orange tube - Connects Janitrol to Zero can on rear bulkhead - Flexible Air intake duct. Not sure if the supplier for these have dried up or not.

mluder
02-22-2017, 11:48 AM
I could probably write a book just on all the hoses used... there is a lot to know about each one individually but I'll start with some basic info. A few are still available but most are either NLA or prohibitively expensive for the casual time machine builder. I've spent more time than I care to admit running NSN searches to find hoses that are close that can be cut apart and made to look correct. Most were originally purchased from Luky's in Burbank, CA. This place can still cut and crimp hose ends so if you find hoses with the right fittings but are too long, or only have one correct fitting you can frankenstein multiple hoses into one good one.



^^^^^^This is AWESOME!^^^^^^
Thanks
Steve

drewguillory
02-25-2017, 10:39 PM
One hose not listed (due to the lightning rod holder in it's place) is this guy:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170226/e67c1a2fa45cf98a587d8242d320756b.jpg

I believe it is Aeroquip type/brand. A quick search for aeroquip on EBay pulls up both hoses and end fittings.. many look pretty close to the screen used. Mark, do you know the proper sizes for these fittings?

I will definitely attempt to frankenstein parts together. As you've mentioned the real hoses are either rare or crazy expensive.

clenet
02-27-2017, 12:00 PM
Hi Mark, I was wondering if you know who's BTTF Delorean was at the Oscars with Michael J. Fox last night. Thanks

Mark D
02-27-2017, 01:52 PM
One hose not listed (due to the lightning rod holder in it's place) is this guy:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170226/e67c1a2fa45cf98a587d8242d320756b.jpg

I believe it is Aeroquip type/brand. A quick search for aeroquip on EBay pulls up both hoses and end fittings.. many look pretty close to the screen used. Mark, do you know the proper sizes for these fittings?

I will definitely attempt to frankenstein parts together. As you've mentioned the real hoses are either rare or crazy expensive.

Hey Drew,

The red/silver hose is Aeroquip brand PN 601021L0150. It would be a miracle to find one of these in the wild, so you'll be more likely to build one with the correct hose and end fittings. The hose and fittings are AN size -12, although the flange fitting on the 90 deg end is a size -20 flange. In total you'll need:

1x Flare Fitting (Straight end with blue nut) 816-12D
2X Sockets (Red hex part that screws onto fittings and captures the hose) 516-12D
~16" of wire braided hose 601-12D
1X Blue mounting flange for 90 deg end 9644-20D

And last but not least the actual 90 deg flange fitting, 8585-14-12-20D. You'll probably have zero luck finding one of these so you have a few different options:

Use a regular 90 deg fitting (standard flare) and remove the blue nut. You can mount the standard 90 deg end directly to the 'trapezoid' instead of using the blue flange to hole it in place. The diameter of the regular 90 deg flare end will be but a fraction of the diameter of the blue -20 flange mount, so you can also weld/braze on an aluminum disc and paint the fitting red with anodizing paint to make it look more accurate. Or you can just leave the 90 deg end as-is and just rigid mount the hose itself into place and put the blue flange around the hose end making it appear that the flange is actually holding it there.

You can also get a size -12 flange fitting and modify that with a larger -20 end on it which will give you a more accurate look than modifying the -12 standard flare fitting. There would be welding/brazing involved here as well.

To mount the straight end of the hose to the aluminum bulkhead production fabricated a pipe coupler welded to a strip of bar stock (steel) and then threaded the straight hose fitting on to it. The coupler is held onto the bulkhead with a couple of screws.

Hope that info helps. It's a little complicated to describe without having many pictures on hand. If you need something more visual to get what I'm trying to describe let me know.

As far as cost goes for all the pieces you can still expect to spend somewhere between $100-$200 in parts to build the hose.

Mark D
02-27-2017, 02:04 PM
Hi Mark, I was wondering if you know who's BTTF Delorean was at the Oscars with Michael J. Fox last night. Thanks

The car that was on the Oscars last night was built by Joe Walser and a few other builders that eventually came to be the Time Machine Restoration Team, myself included. The car is owned by Terry Matalas and the level of accuracy on this car is absolutely insane. The attention to detail on this car is one of the reasons why we were able to get the job restoring the A car.

drewguillory
02-27-2017, 02:21 PM
Hey Drew,

The red/silver hose is Aeroquip brand PN 601021L0150. It would be a ........

Great info! Thanks man. Now the hunt for parts begins...

Mark D
02-27-2017, 02:27 PM
Great info! Thanks man. Now the hunt for parts begins...

Good luck, let me know if you get stuck on anything.

DMC5180
02-27-2017, 06:37 PM
I thought it was interesting when jimmy kimmel introduced it as the most famous movie car of all time. To be honest, I thought they where going to raise the curtain on Herbie the love bug.

It's nice to see our cars finally being referred to in a positive light.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Timebender
02-27-2017, 07:49 PM
I don't know if this was covered yet, because the search on the site gives me lots of results but not for this..
I understand the round gauges were from plutonium gauges (maybe?), and if so, is there a source or something similar where there's just the round gauges available somewhere?

Thanks!

Greg

mluder
02-27-2017, 08:03 PM
I don't know if this was covered yet, because the search on the site gives me lots of results but not for this..
I understand the round gauges were from plutonium gauges (maybe?), and if so, is there a source or something similar where there's just the round gauges available somewhere?

Thanks!

Greg

Lots of similar available.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-PHAOSTRON-AC-VOLT-METER-GAUGE-0-250-/272570655318?hash=item3f767a2256

Cheers
Steven

Timebender
02-27-2017, 08:56 PM
Dig it. Thanks Steven [emoji4]

Mark D
02-28-2017, 09:23 AM
Apex used to have a ton of the round meters for the plutonium gauge panel. They're listed as out of stock on the website but I bet if you call they still have some.

http://www.apexelectronic.com/MET13-W-6B

One other thing to note is that to get an accurate face on the round meters you'll have to take them apart and apply a vinyl decal. Pretty much any gauge you can find at this point will have the wrong units on it.

mluder
02-28-2017, 11:19 AM
Apex used to have a ton of the round meters for the plutonium gauge panel. They're listed as out of stock on the website but I bet if you call they still have some.

http://www.apexelectronic.com/MET13-W-6B

One other thing to note is that to get an accurate face on the round meters you'll have to take them apart and apply a vinyl decal. Pretty much any gauge you can find at this point will have the wrong units on it.

What was the scale on the on-screen units? Was it the just the one that the radiation detectors had on them or was it something the props department changed out? I could never figure it out.

Cheers
Steve

"What The Flux?"
02-28-2017, 03:37 PM
Hi Mark D,

Thank you for all of your fascinating info, this is one of my favorite sites/threads!

I know you may be limited somewhat in what you can share, but I was wondering if you would be able to provide a bit of info about the plutonium reactor lid? If you are able to share any dimensions including how low it sits underneath the top most lip of the turbine nozzle, it would be awesome!

Alternatively, would you be able to confirm if these measurements are correct and/or correct them if they are wrong?

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n189/bozzzydmc/Back%20to%20the%20Future%20Reference%20Pics%20-%20External/lid.jpg (http://s112.photobucket.com/user/bozzzydmc/media/Back%20to%20the%20Future%20Reference%20Pics%20-%20External/lid.jpg.html)

Huge thanks!

Mark D
03-01-2017, 01:34 PM
What was the scale on the on-screen units? Was it the just the one that the radiation detectors had on them or was it something the props department changed out? I could never figure it out.

Cheers
Steve

The values on the screen used gauges go from 0 to 1.0 in .10 increments and don't have any actual units listed. They are real gauges and not something that production modified. I'm not sure where they would be used in real life, but for "Primary" and "Percent Power" on the meter panel in the time machine they fit the part.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49216&d=1488393200

A long time ago someone created a face plate that could be printed out and applied over an inaccurate gauge face to make it look correct. I'll have to see if I still have that file somewhere and I can share it.

mluder
03-01-2017, 02:18 PM
The values on the screen used gauges go from 0 to 1.0 in .10 increments and don't have any actual units listed. They are real gauges and not something that production modified. I'm not sure where they would be used in real life, but for "Primary" and "Percent Power" on the meter panel in the time machine they fit the part.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49216&d=1488393200

A long time ago someone created a face plate that could be printed out and applied over an inaccurate gauge face to make it look correct. I'll have to see if I still have that file somewhere and I can share it.

Awesome! Thanks.
Somewhere I have a .jpg file of the Roentgen gauge that's not too bad. Having the round dials would same me some time from having to create them.

Cheers
Steve

Mark D
03-01-2017, 03:33 PM
Hi Mark D,

Thank you for all of your fascinating info, this is one of my favorite sites/threads!

I know you may be limited somewhat in what you can share, but I was wondering if you would be able to provide a bit of info about the plutonium reactor lid? If you are able to share any dimensions including how low it sits underneath the top most lip of the turbine nozzle, it would be awesome!

Alternatively, would you be able to confirm if these measurements are correct and/or correct them if they are wrong?

Huge thanks!

The nuclear reactor hatch is especially near and dear to my heart since I've spent years of my life designing and redesigning the various parts as better an better information became available. Our team collectively spent close to 10 years perfecting the design and actually gave Bob Gale one of the first production run parts as a thanks for making the A car restoration possible.

Some of the information that we received on this part is not my intellectual property to share but I should still be able to provide some help. For starters, you can't consider the lid by itself as a single part. It was designed as a unit with the lower 'core' that it locks into. The lid and core collectively make up the "reactor hatch" as it is referred to by Michael Scheffe who designed it.

The core is attached to the turbine nozzle with socket head cap screws, and is concentric with the nozzle. The ID of the core is designed to match the ID of the turbine nozzle. The OD of the lid is just slightly smaller than the ID of the turbine nozzle so it can interlock inside. The outer portion of the core was designed to fit snugly inside the center opening of the hubcap that makes up the top of the nuclear reactor.

Both the lid and core are made from cut to length sections of 6" OD, 5" OD and 4" OD aluminum tubes with 1/2" wall thickness. The OD of the tubes are machined slightly to allow the three sizes to slide fit/telescope within one another. After cutting to length the tubes are welded together and the 3/4" solid rod handle and 1/8" bottom plates are welded in.

There is always "the one" photo that was taken that gives just enough information to figure out a certain part. This one photo for the reactor core was a black and white picture taken in 1986 while the car was on display at Universal in the tram tour queue area. The photo was taken at a point in time where the lid had been stolen, and hubcap w/ core had not yet been removed.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49217&d=1488397487

I can't list off dimensions of every part but I can share this screen grab showing a section view of the parts as they fit inside one another.
It took a team of a dozen guys years and years to figure everything out so it is not my place to share what is not mine. Information was also given to our team in confidence from other outside sources so that muddies the waters even further.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49219&d=1488399935

Given the sizes of each of the tubes that I described, you should be able to scale out pretty much everything else from there without me giving out actual dimensions. It's the best I can do at this point, sorry for having to be vague on the actual numbers.

cpistocco
03-02-2017, 12:24 AM
Doesn't appear to have been shaped very well, almost bulging around the top and sides, the overhang and also the fact it's split / corner missing by one of the screw holes.. wondered if it was more to be screen accurate but after looking at screen shots realised it isn't?...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170218/e0255e0666d39a77783f274571876a02.jpg

Hello Folks
Does anyone know where the radio shack project boxes can be purchased for the tfc switch, I believe that Video Bob has some....but they aren't cheap. :)

mluder
03-02-2017, 01:20 AM
Hello Folks
Does anyone know where the radio shack project boxes can be purchased for the tfc switch, I believe that Video Bob has some....but they aren't cheap. :)

They are relatively straightforward. You could have them fabricated or do it yourself if you have a metal brake.
I opted to order something close. Dimensions are on but it is vented.
This one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Metal-Instrument-Electronic-Project-Enclosure-box-Transformer-Case-8-3-x6-x3-/232252219511?hash=item36134fa077

Cheers
Steven

Revol2
03-02-2017, 02:22 PM
Hi all! Hi Mark D.!
I have a few questions about speedo, please:
1) Mark D, how do you know that the box was blue in move?
(you said that it was blue, but then painted in white color)

2)I did not understand, digits should peek out of the box?
49223
49224

3) Who knows who I can buy the correct sign?
I need --> Stanley Readout Replica digits.
4922549226

4) What kind of polystyrene diffuse?
where to get?
49227

5) As the labels made in 1985 on TCD?
what а production technology?
what height a tape?
49228

6) What kind a tape used in move for the third digit ?
This is Gary speedo pic for example
49229

Thx

Mark D
03-02-2017, 03:34 PM
Hi all! Hi Mark D.!
I have a few questions about speedo, please:
1) Mark D, how do you know that the box was blue in move?
(you said that it was blue, but then painted in white color)

2)I did not understand, digits should peek out of the box?
49223
49224

3) Who knows who I can buy the correct sign?
I need --> Stanley Readout Replica digits.
4922549226

4) What kind of polystyrene diffuse?
where to get?
49227

5) As the labels made in 1985 on TCD?
what а production technology?
what height a tape?
49228

6) What kind a tape used in move for the third digit ?
This is Gary speedo pic for example
49229

Thx

1. The original box had areas where the paint was scratched through and you could see the blue plastic below. The paint was an off white/light gray color.

2. The digits should sit flush with the outside of the case.

3. Only a couple of Stanley readout displays have ever been found. The couple that still exist actually came from one of the production crew members that still had them from when the screen used cars were built. The bulbs are incandescent and run hot, so small LEDs are usually a better choice when making replicas. I don't have a ready source available for buying castings of the stanley housings. There is also a clear lens that clips over the black plastic housing that needs to be cast or cut from sheets of clear plastic and glued together. Making a mold for casting is difficult due to the shape and depth of the recesses in the part. The black housings may be a good candidate for 3D printing rather than molding. Creating reproduction circuit boards are also a complicating factor.

A simpler solution is to use a readily available 7 segment LED displays and add plastic housings cut from sheet polystyrene to make them look more like the Stanley displays.

4. The diffuser is a sheet of matte acetate, can be found at craft stores, amazon, staples, office max, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Grafix-Acetate-9x12-Inch-Sheets-Clear/dp/B004QJX1JI/ref=pd_lpo_201_bs_lp_img_2/160-4757342-1780200?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C30V8KYPMZ64EREHJ18Z

5. The TCD labels were originally made with a special type of label maker and required black and red tape that would print white. Finding a vintage label maker and the correct size tape is probably not going to be viable option.

A much better solution is to have custom vinyl decals printed and then cut them out to size. The Month, Day, Year, Hour, Min labels are .218" tall, the Destination Time, Present Time and Last Time Departed labels are .281" tall, and the AM PM labels are .188 tall. The labels were originally trimmed by hand to fit and are not all perfectly square or exactly the same height. The font is Microgramma Bold Extended

6. The digital speedo was originally built with three digits and would have read 88.0 when the car hits 88 mph. This presumably proved to be difficult to read on screen and looked like "880" so production covered the tenths digit with a piece of black gaffer's tape.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Cloth-Gaffers-Tape-6910/dp/B00H95LOIG

"What The Flux?"
03-02-2017, 03:50 PM
The nuclear reactor hatch is especially near and dear to my heart since I've spent years of my life designing and redesigning the various parts as better an better information became available. Our team collectively spent close to 10 years perfecting the design and actually gave Bob Gale one of the first production run parts as a thanks for making the A car restoration possible.

Some of the information that we received on this part is not my intellectual property to share but I should still be able to provide some help. For starters, you can't consider the lid by itself as a single part. It was designed as a unit with the lower 'core' that it locks into. The lid and core collectively make up the "reactor hatch" as it is referred to by Michael Scheffe who designed it.

The core is attached to the turbine nozzle with socket head cap screws, and is concentric with the nozzle. The ID of the core is designed to match the ID of the turbine nozzle. The OD of the lid is just slightly smaller than the ID of the turbine nozzle so it can interlock inside. The outer portion of the core was designed to fit snugly inside the center opening of the hubcap that makes up the top of the nuclear reactor.

Both the lid and core are made from cut to length sections of 6" OD, 5" OD and 4" OD aluminum tubes with 1/2" wall thickness. The OD of the tubes are machined slightly to allow the three sizes to slide fit/telescope within one another. After cutting to length the tubes are welded together and the 3/4" solid rod handle and 1/8" bottom plates are welded in.

There is always "the one" photo that was taken that gives just enough information to figure out a certain part. This one photo for the reactor core was a black and white picture taken in 1986 while the car was on display at Universal in the tram tour queue area. The photo was taken at a point in time where the lid had been stolen, and hubcap w/ core had not yet been removed.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49217&d=1488397487

I can't list off dimensions of every part but I can share this screen grab showing a section view of the parts as they fit inside one another.
It took a team of a dozen guys years and years to figure everything out so it is not my place to share what is not mine. Information was also given to our team in confidence from other outside sources so that muddies the waters even further.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49219&d=1488399935

Given the sizes of each of the tubes that I described, you should be able to scale out pretty much everything else from there without me giving out actual dimensions. It's the best I can do at this point, sorry for having to be vague on the actual numbers.

Hi Mark,

Thank you very much for such an interesting and informative response. I love reading your kind responses to peoples questions and learning such incredible detail about the history of the parts. You really are of huge benefit to the community.

I completely understand about the sensitivity of some of this information, especially considering the intellectual property of others involved. I think it is very respectful of you to consider them before just simply publicising information.

No need to apologize at all! I am very grateful for the information that you have kindly shared with us.

Thanks again for your time.

cpistocco
03-02-2017, 10:36 PM
They are relatively straightforward. You could have them fabricated or do it yourself if you have a metal brake.
I opted to order something close. Dimensions are on but it is vented.
This one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Metal-Instrument-Electronic-Project-Enclosure-box-Transformer-Case-8-3-x6-x3-/232252219511?hash=item36134fa077

Cheers
Steven

Thanks Steven...
You are always very helpful. I guess I have 2 choices...
1) Buy the ebay box for $20.00 (It looks pretty close!)
2) Drop $100.00 for video bob's. ( I wouldn't mind it so much if it includes the switches and gizmos shown in his photos) I cant seem to get an answer from him as to whether or not those odds and ends are included....
Does anyone know?
-Best
Charlie

mluder
03-03-2017, 12:09 AM
Thanks Steven...
You are always very helpful. I guess I have 2 choices...
1) Buy the ebay box for $20.00 (It looks pretty close!)
2) Drop $100.00 for video bob's. ( I wouldn't mind it so much if it includes the switches and gizmos shown in his photos) I cant seem to get an answer from him as to whether or not those odds and ends are included....
Does anyone know?
-Best
Charlie

Thanks for the compliment but most of the credit goes to my friends Jon and Gary. Those guys are wizards at finding the stuff. I'm just sharing what they shared with me.

As far as the box goes, if Bob's comes with the switches for $100 that's a pretty good price. In terms of time savings. However the switches can be found on eBay relatively inexpensively.

Cheers
Steve

Timebender
03-03-2017, 01:44 PM
Awesome! Thanks.
Somewhere I have a .jpg file of the Roentgen gauge that's not too bad. Having the round dials would same me some time from having to create them.

Cheers
Steve
I got a faceplate recently from Bruce and it came with new gauge faces as a bonus - which I'd say is pretty darn cool of him. On the rectangular gauge, which I got one from him, I'm wondering what was used for the red alert "EMPTY" light, and is that pretty easy to install? I was kinda thinking just finding a small red light up button switch from Radio Shack (and man I've been not happy with them lately as all the cool electronic stuff is becoming less and less) and just taking the top and gluing it in.

Also, what kind of metal was used for the sides, and are there dimensions somewhere?

Thanks!
Greg

mluder
03-03-2017, 07:56 PM
This is what I bought on advice from my guru, Gary...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-Push-Button-Momentary-Self-Reset-Square-Switch-Red-LED-Light-/262844365763?hash=item3d32bebbc3

You can just print on a regular piece of printer paper the "EMPTY" and install a flashing LED bulb assembly. It will shine through.

I'm not sure about the metal on the sides. It's just perforated stainless steel. Might even be (probably is) the same stuff used for the flux bands. That said I don't know what the hole size or spacing is supposed to be. I'm sure someone can provide.

Cheers
Steve

"What The Flux?"
03-04-2017, 10:47 AM
I personally think that posts attempting to promote the business of (endorsing) the likes of dollar-parasites BC, GW and VB, should be deleted as unrelated to the topic.

mluder
03-04-2017, 11:44 AM
I personally think that posts attempting to promote the business of (endorsing) the likes of dollar-parasites BC, GW and VB, should be deleted as unrelated to the topic.

You assume I'm talking about Gary Weaver... I am not. This is a different Gary. Sorry.

Cheers
Steve

"What The Flux?"
03-04-2017, 11:58 AM
You assume I'm talking about Gary Weaver... I am not. This is a different Gary. Sorry.

Cheers
Steve

Oh really? Gary who? I'm sure we will have all heard of him if he is considered a "guru"

mluder
03-04-2017, 12:08 PM
Oh really? Gary who? I'm sure we will have all heard of him if he is considered a "guru"

I said he was my guru. He and I have been trading info via Facebook for about a year. It's not my place to reveal who he is but he in on the board. He can introduce himself if he chooses. But I assure you, I'm not referring to GW... that said I have no quarrel with Mr weaver and have been more than satisfied with things I've bought from him.

Cheers
Steve

"What The Flux?"
03-04-2017, 12:26 PM
I have no quarrel with Mr weaver and have been more than satisfied with things I've bought from him.

Cheers
Steve

Even now, still endorsing?! Is your endorsement of GW and GD really relevant to this thread?

mluder
03-04-2017, 01:20 PM
Even now, still endorsing?! Is your endorsement of GW and GD really relevant to this thread?

Actually not an endorsement at all. I shared information re BTTF builds that was not a result of my own research but rather information a friend shared with me. I was merely giving proper credit to my source... who is not GW.

My comments about GW are also not an endorsement per say... I'm not suggesting anyone buy anything from him. You made what I felt was a condescending remark about him and I simply stated that I thought he was an alright guy.

Sorry if I offended anyone.

Cheers
Steve

Revol2
03-04-2017, 02:46 PM
Hi guys!
I wrote a message in private to many authorities builders car BTTF
I wanted to buy bttf speedo already built or Replica Stanley Display and I also wrote to Gary Weaver
Gary Weaver is totaly me ignored :)
so...* that money is so much that is not necessary any more? )
I Do not know who to knock for to find Stanley ReadOut Replica(!)
all they ignore and hide :(
Only Mark D, me very much helped and I'll start to build speedo himself
thank you very much Mark, for your very detailed answer!

I received a Hammond
and my box is very ribbed outside
49297
49298
49299

I'm a other kind of ordered?
49296

everybody have are ribbed sides on your boxes?
Please tell me, where to get the correct box ? Thx!

Timebender
03-04-2017, 06:02 PM
This is what I bought on advice from my guru, Gary...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-Push-Button-Momentary-Self-Reset-Square-Switch-Red-LED-Light-/262844365763?hash=item3d32bebbc3

You can just print on a regular piece of printer paper the "EMPTY" and install a flashing LED bulb assembly. It will shine through.

I'm not sure about the metal on the sides. It's just perforated stainless steel. Might even be (probably is) the same stuff used for the flux bands. That said I don't know what the hole size or spacing is supposed to be. I'm sure someone can provide.

Cheers
Steve

Thanks Steve- that should help on both questions. A question I forgot to ask was if you or anyone knows the dimensions or is there a pattern somewhere?

mluder
03-04-2017, 07:21 PM
Thanks Steve- that should help on both questions. A question I forgot to ask was if you or anyone knows the dimensions or is there a pattern somewhere?

If I recall it's on Gary Weaver's CAD drawing that's floating around... It even has the whole spacing for the switches though I don't know if the locations have been confirmed as accurate.

Cheers
Steve

Timebender
03-04-2017, 09:19 PM
If I recall it's on Gary Weaver's CAD drawing that's floating around... It even has the whole spacing for the switches though I don't know if the locations have been confirmed as accurate.

Cheers
Steve

I have that actually, but aside from most of the things on there that make sense as to what they are, I can't figure out which would be the side plates or even front plate to the plutonium gauge panel.

minispeedstar
03-05-2017, 02:50 PM
Thanks Steve- that should help on both questions. A question I forgot to ask was if you or anyone knows the dimensions or is there a pattern somewhere?


Steven's "Guru" Gary here.... lol

Here's one I'm finishing off from the parts mentioned by Steven...

Switch layout isn't technically screen accurate but a nicer even lay out in my opinion

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/fa2c2455c7d3c127c2e828dd1878ebce.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/14db30f9004fb1ca00196af2ae4ea44d.jpg

I use the lid with vents for the TFC's I build with built in sound affects and have new lids made without vents for those without....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/d3697a5f5ee2292fc9bce5983accde16.jpg

Here's a link to the perforated aluminium for the side panels of the plutonium gauges that I use....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301028135414

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/fda6c673d72c5391aa1eb1c311ff6cd4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/a1b6241c98c8084c91afc45b22d435ec.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/4fd7d87afe74a7d2f33a3f5b1e543a94.jpg

Gary Weaver II
03-05-2017, 06:45 PM
"Dollar parasites"... That's one I haven't heard before.

Good one Mr. Anonymous.

-Gary


I personally think that posts attempting to promote the business of (endorsing) the likes of dollar-parasites BC, GW and VB, should be deleted as unrelated to the topic.

Timebender
03-05-2017, 08:10 PM
Steven's "Guru" Gary here.... lol

Here's one I'm finishing off from the parts mentioned by Steven...

Switch layout isn't technically screen accurate but a nicer even lay out in my opinion

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/fa2c2455c7d3c127c2e828dd1878ebce.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/14db30f9004fb1ca00196af2ae4ea44d.jpg

I use the lid with vents for the TFC's I build with built in sound affects and have new lids made without vents for those without....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/d3697a5f5ee2292fc9bce5983accde16.jpg

Here's a link to the perforated aluminium for the side panels of the plutonium gauges that I use....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301028135414

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/fda6c673d72c5391aa1eb1c311ff6cd4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/a1b6241c98c8084c91afc45b22d435ec.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/4fd7d87afe74a7d2f33a3f5b1e543a94.jpg

Nice work, other Gary!

mluder
03-06-2017, 02:45 AM
I have that actually, but aside from most of the things on there that make sense as to what they are, I can't figure out which would be the side plates or even front plate to the plutonium gauge panel.

OK... My mistake. I went and looked and the triangles aren't there... The front plate is there but the holes are not shown for the gauges... Just the overall size 15.5" x 5"

Cheers
Steve

minispeedstar
03-06-2017, 03:16 AM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/1cbd81bac23b93f5227086620978b657.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/be467c67703353e8f0107c05e1628abb.jpg

These might help..

cpistocco
03-06-2017, 11:45 AM
Steven's "Guru" Gary here.... lol

Here's one I'm finishing off from the parts mentioned by Steven...

Switch layout isn't technically screen accurate but a nicer even lay out in my opinion

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/fa2c2455c7d3c127c2e828dd1878ebce.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/14db30f9004fb1ca00196af2ae4ea44d.jpg

I use the lid with vents for the TFC's I build with built in sound affects and have new lids made without vents for those without....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/d3697a5f5ee2292fc9bce5983accde16.jpg

Here's a link to the perforated aluminium for the side panels of the plutonium gauges that I use....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301028135414

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/fda6c673d72c5391aa1eb1c311ff6cd4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/a1b6241c98c8084c91afc45b22d435ec.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170305/4fd7d87afe74a7d2f33a3f5b1e543a94.jpg

Wow- That switch layout is exactly what I have been looking for.... One switch every inch! Can you tell me how you create the sound effects? Also, what is the proper size of the red and green jewel lights?
Thanks a million :)
Charlie
ps- It took me 3 attempts before I could bend the plexi properly! :)

Mark D
03-06-2017, 11:59 AM
Hi Mark,

Thank you very much for such an interesting and informative response. I love reading your kind responses to peoples questions and learning such incredible detail about the history of the parts. You really are of huge benefit to the community.

I completely understand about the sensitivity of some of this information, especially considering the intellectual property of others involved. I think it is very respectful of you to consider them before just simply publicising information.

No need to apologize at all! I am very grateful for the information that you have kindly shared with us.

Thanks again for your time.

Thanks for the kind words, I just try to help out wherever I can :-)

Revol2
03-06-2017, 12:57 PM
Thanks for the kind words, I just try to help out wherever I can :-)
Yes, yes Mark D
You are very kind! I am very grateful too.
if you find the right scale for gauges (pic for printed) let us know, please :)

Mark D
03-06-2017, 01:17 PM
Hi guys!
I wrote a message in private to many authorities builders car BTTF
I wanted to buy bttf speedo already built or Replica Stanley Display and I also wrote to Gary Weaver
Gary Weaver is totaly me ignored :)
so...* that money is so much that is not necessary any more? )
I Do not know who to knock for to find Stanley ReadOut Replica(!)
all they ignore and hide :(
Only Mark D, me very much helped and I'll start to build speedo himself
thank you very much Mark, for your very detailed answer!

I received a Hammond
and my box is very ribbed outside
49297
49298
49299

I'm a other kind of ordered?
49296

everybody have are ribbed sides on your boxes?
Please tell me, where to get the correct box ? Thx!

The hammond enclosure you have is correct and the waviness on the outside of the enclosure are pretty common. It's not really a "defect" but it's related to the molding process of the box itself. The inside of the box has actual ribs where you can subdivide the box up or glue in partitions, and the slightly ribbed outside it just waviness from the injection molding process. You can use a sanding block to flatten out the plastic, or when you paint the box use a filler primer and block the primer and the waviness will be less noticeable.

neriel
03-06-2017, 01:28 PM
Check your email, I forwarded you some info.

I also need the drawing or or layout of the overhead panel.

Raul

Mark D
03-06-2017, 01:38 PM
In regards to the perforated mesh for the meter panel, it's the same aluminum mesh used on the flux bands on the exterior of the car. It's sold in 4x10 sheets and one sheet is more than enough for one car.

McNICHOLS® Quality Perforated Metal, Round Hole, Aluminum Type 3003-H14, .050 Gauge, Mill Finish, 3/32" Holes on 5/32" Centers, Staggered Pattern, 33% Open Area, Sheet, 48.0000" Width x 120.0000" Length

http://www.mcnichols.com/product/1733535041?navCode=cc:round&navCode=avc:round&navCode=avc:aluminum&navCode=avc:AV-127084&navCode=avc:AV-127096&navCode=avc:AV-135144&navCode=avc:AV-127478

drewguillory
03-06-2017, 01:42 PM
The red/silver hose is Aeroquip brand PN 601021L0150....

To mount the straight end of the hose to the aluminum bulkhead production fabricated a pipe coupler welded to a strip of bar stock (steel) and then threaded the straight hose fitting on to it.

Do you know the dimensions of this bar stock? I imagine they cut both pieces from a longer bar.

Mark D
03-06-2017, 01:48 PM
Do you know the dimensions of this bar stock? I imagine they cut both pieces from a longer bar.

I do know the dimensions but don't have the info handy. I'll pull up the CAD model later and take some measurements. The pipe fitting is a Male-Male NPT fitting if I'm remembering correctly. It doesn't actually have the correct threads to match the end of the Aeroquip hose, but they just jammed it on there as tight as they could to make it work.

Mark D
03-06-2017, 02:11 PM
The meter panel that fits in the glove box is cut from 1/8" thick aluminum 6061 sheet and is flat with no bend at the bottom (as someone else posted earlier)

The overall dimensions are 15 29/32 x 4 25/32. Most of the fabricated parts on the car have 'make sense' dimensions to the whole or half inch, but the meter panel is more oddly shaped for whatever reason. Either the guy who made the part was trying to hit an exact measurement to match the glove box, or he was just a little care free with his cut lines.

The top edge of the aluminum plate is also notched out for clearance to the glove box latch mechanism. Without the notch the plate will not fit correctly in the glove box.

This photo I posted a few posts back shows the upper profile of the plate.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49216&d=1488393200

This is about as detailed as I can get with dimensions.

Revol2
03-06-2017, 03:08 PM
... or when you paint the box use a filler primer and block the primer and the waviness will be less noticeable.
Super Mark, I will do so
You have a big head! :) Thx

"What The Flux?"
03-06-2017, 03:21 PM
Hi Mark,

Thank you for continuing to help us all with our questions. I think we all learn and benefit from your knowledge and experience.

I'm sorry to keep throwing questions your way, but was wondering if there is any useful information for the unintended holes that exist on the bottom of the reactor core (behind the heatsinks) and on the rear vents themselves (the miscellaneous holes that don't have screws in them). I could attempt to measure them out from pictures, but if you have actual dimensions that would be really useful.

Thanks

Mark D
03-06-2017, 04:21 PM
Hi Mark,

Thank you for continuing to help us all with our questions. I think we all learn and benefit from your knowledge and experience.

I'm sorry to keep throwing questions your way, but was wondering if there is any useful information for the unintended holes that exist on the bottom of the reactor core (behind the heatsinks) and on the rear vents themselves (the miscellaneous holes that don't have screws in them). I could attempt to measure them out from pictures, but if you have actual dimensions that would be really useful.

Thanks

The best information that we have is that the extra "oops" holes around the nuclear reactor ring were from a design change in the heat sink spacing sometime during the build. The reactor as we know it now has one heat sink centered on the rear of the reactor with the remaining heat sinks evenly spaced around it. Early on in the build this wasn't the case and the heat sinks were spaced differently.

Something like this:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49322&d=1488834322

The extra holes that still exist line up with the hole spacing on the heat sinks.

I can confirm with some reference photos, but as far as I know this is an A car trait only. The B car only had one set of holes that matched to the A car after the final spacing was decided.

There are a few other "oops" holes in the vents that are there for interesting reasons. There are two sets of triangularly spaced holes on the top of each vent that hold the plastic CO2 dispensing nozzle inside the vent. The nozzle could be mounted in one of two positions to blast CO2 either straight back, or up at an angle.

In the mall parking lot scene when the car returns back cold from the first time travel event with Einstein in the car, you first see the CO2 blast backwards horizontally towards the camera. Then it cuts to a wide shot immediately afterwards and you see the plume of CO2 shooting out at an upward angle.

minispeedstar
03-06-2017, 04:31 PM
Wow- That switch layout is exactly what I have been looking for.... One switch every inch! Can you tell me how you create the sound effects? Also, what is the proper size of the red and green jewel lights?
Thanks a million :)
Charlie
ps- It took me 3 attempts before I could bend the plexi properly! :)

The jewel lights are 1", the sound affects are a little complicated and I don't want to highjack this topic anymore than I have already, tho here's a handy tip on how to make the plexi work using a heat gun, original cover and some masking tape....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/200ce33e5ccba119d5558e341c6ad20d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/a0e3f9d87b64cb5dc83c338372f132ed.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/25a29377b97db540ab00cd2e3ffd3af9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/246e7863f26b113d799729b7f626ec5a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/d7f13b3d12ec78df3b256f16ad845ee1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/b2952d0d71eca2de71f54fb368cab223.jpg