Stainless steel exhaust studs

[Trstno1]

Does anyone know the size and pitch of the exhaust studs in our cars?

Also, does anyone know where to purchase the stainless steel studs, lock washers and nuts?

[Delorean Industries]

Does anyone know the size and pitch of the exhaust studs in our cars?

Also, does anyone know where to purchase the stainless steel studs, lock washers and nuts?

http://www.deloreanindustries.com/stainless-exhaust-stud-kit-12-studs/

[PJ Grady Inc.]

We make these studs. They are M7 hardened stainless steel and are virtually impervious to corrosion. DPI carry's them as well. They are not on our new website yet but pricing is the same as Josh's and they are also available as a complete kit with one piece exhaust manifold gaskets.
Rob Grady
(800)350-7429

[Bitsyncmaster]

Would it be better to use brass nuts on those stainless studs?

[PJ Grady Inc.]

We have three options on that. If you go with stainless on stainless you must use a product called tefgel on the threads to avoid galvanic action from the heat.
We can supply brass nuts but they are not particularely strong and can strip if overtightened.
My first choice is copper coated steel locking flange nuts which we include in our premium kits with the one piece OEM manifold gaskets.
Rob


Would it be better to use brass nuts on those stainless studs?

[Trstno1]

We have three options on that. If you go with stainless on stainless you must use a product called tefgel on the threads to avoid galvanic action from the heat.
We can supply brass nuts but they are not particularely strong and can strip if overtightened.
My first choice is copper coated steel locking flange nuts which we include in our premium kits with the one piece OEM manifold gaskets.
Rob

Hey Rob, how much is the premium kit?

[andyd]

We have three options on that. If you go with stainless on stainless you must use a product called tefgel on the threads to avoid galvanic action from the heat.
We can supply brass nuts but they are not particularely strong and can strip if overtightened.
My first choice is copper coated steel locking flange nuts which we include in our premium kits with the one piece OEM manifold gaskets.
Rob

Hi Rob,

I am planning to go with brass nuts. Should I be using lock washers on the manifold and the bolt-together sections of the (UK stainless) exhaust?

Thanks in advance!

andy

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Hey Rob, how much is the premium kit?
We have three different kits but the best one uses Volvo OEM one piece mnfd gaskets, hardened stainless manifold studs and coppercoated M7 locking flange nuts with stainless washers. Part #112259VS $169.95. It's the most expensive kit but it's by far the best one available. I prefer only using this one in our shop as you don't want a comeback on exhaust work.
Rob Grady

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Brass is too soft to use with steel lockwashers (I don't think brass lockwashers exist because of the material's properties) so you'd have to run brass or stainless flatwashers. I would recommend you use our locking flange nuts instead if you're worried about the brass ones backing off. Another option is you could double up on the brass nuts to lock them in place if your studs are long enough.
Rob


Hi Rob,

I am planning to go with brass nuts. Should I be using lock washers on the manifold and the bolt-together sections of the (UK stainless) exhaust?

Thanks in advance!

andy

[Farrar]

What about anodized stainless nuts on stainless studs? Would that help prevent heat-induced corrosion-welding?

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Is this a trick question? You can't anodize stainless steel. I believe that process is for aluminum only.
Rob

What about anodized stainless nuts on stainless studs? Would that help prevent heat-induced corrosion-welding?

[Farrar]

Is this a trick question? You can't anodize stainless steel. I believe that process is for aluminum only.
Rob

Not a trick question, just me using the wrong word. I meant to say oxidized, not anodized. Sorry!

The reason I ask is because I've used black oxide stainless hardware in different situations, but none where heat was a factor.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I was just kidding with you! I routinely use black oxide plating on my stainless screw kits etc. for color match reasons but I don't think it adds much in the way of protection. However the passivation process used to prep it for plating may have an affect on it's anticorrosion properties. That's a question for my plater and I need to pay him a visit anyway so I'll get back to you with his advice. If he says it's beneficial then he'll be getting a bunch of stainless studs and nuts to plate. Only problem with that is that people may not believe the stuff is stainless after that!
Rob


Not a trick question, just me using the wrong word. I meant to say oxidized, not anodized. Sorry!

The reason I ask is because I've used black oxide stainless hardware in different situations, but none where heat was a factor.

[Farrar]

Thanks, Rob!

[Morpheus]

If you go with stainless on stainless you must use a product called tefgel on the threads to avoid galvanic action from the heat.


Hey Rob, is the Permatex stuff ok to use with the stainless on stainless application? I'm not sure where to get tefgel.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36059&stc=1

[Mark D]

The Permatex stuff looks like it will work...I have used their copper anti-seize paste that comes in a similar container and I can say that it's good stuff to use when electrical conductivity matters.

Tef Gel is available on Amazon and I recommend it as well. I use it on stainless fasteners and on other applications with dissimilar metals. A little bit goes a long way and really great stuff. At my job we also use Tef Gel on our independent front suspensions on splines and other mating surfaces to prevent parts from corroding and locking together.

http://www.amazon.com/Tef-Gel-TG-02-Anti-seize-Anyi-gull-Lubricant/dp/B00CEF65T4/ref=sr_1_1/178-7711372-8597005?ie=UTF8&qid=1439478110&sr=8-1&keywords=tef+gel

[Morpheus]

Cool! Thanks Mark!

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Hey Rob, is the Permatex stuff ok to use with the stainless on stainless application? I'm not sure where to get tefgel.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36059&stc=1

Tefgel is preferred but since you just ordered the stainless kit I'll be happy to precoat the studs for you. I'm passing this on to the list since you asked me the question directly. Thanx again.
Rob

[Morpheus]

^And that, ladies and gentlemen, is what you call excellent customer service. This is but one of the reasons you are so highly regarded in the DMC community. Thanks Rob!

[PJ Grady Inc.]

^And that, ladies and gentlemen, is what you call excellent customer service. This is but one of the reasons you are so highly regarded in the DMC community. Thanks Rob!

Thank you for the order and the compliment Brandon. What my website lacks in ease of ordering I try to make up for with the best engineered and highest quality products in everything we sell. I will be adding personnel ASAP to help with all of the increasingly complicated facets of this business of making parts for and repairing/rebuilding Deloreans. When I do that the inclusion of much more of our rather vast inventory will be a top priority.
In the meantime please don't be bashful about making inquiries via email, through the website, PMing on the forums, or the old fashioned but highly effective telephone.
Rob

[Morpheus]

One last question:

What should I use to actually remove the studs? I have seen the double-nut method and even looked into a stud extractor. I have read that vice grips aren't a good choice. What is the preferred way on a DeLorean?

[PJ Grady Inc.]

One last question:

What should I use to actually remove the studs? I have seen the double-nut method and even looked into a stud extractor. I have read that vice grips aren't a good choice. What is the preferred way on a DeLorean?

The best tool is a dedicated 7mm stud extractor as it grips the best and can fit in tight places. They cost a bit but will save you a lot of grief if you want to do the job right. There is an Assenmacher #200-7 7mm extracter on amazon for about $38- & $8- shipping that will make you feel like a pro when doing this job.
Rob

[Morpheus]

Thanks again, Rob!

I actually found it on AutoToolWorld.com for $27 shipped.

Here's a link for anyone who's interested:
http://www.autotoolworld.com/Assenmacher-200-7-7mm-Stud-Remover-Installer_p_125792.html

[Rich_NYS]

"Assenmacher" -lol

Wie heissen das?

[DMC5180]

Thanks again, Rob!

I actually found it on AutoToolWorld.com for $27 shipped.

Here's a link for anyone who's interested:
http://www.autotoolworld.com/Assenmacher-200-7-7mm-Stud-Remover-Installer_p_125792.html

Thanks for the link. I bought one too. It will be Nice having the right tool for the next time I do that job.

[Mark D]

You guys are making this sound way too easy. You're supposed to say removing the exhaust studs are an impossibly hard task so I'm not tempted to buy a SPEC 1 exhaust.

[DMC5180]

You guys are making this sound way too easy. You're supposed to say removing the exhaust studs are an impossibly hard task so I'm not tempted to buy a SPEC 1 exhaust.

Difficulty would be relative to the number of and or location of existing broken studs.

I have a friend that has 2 broken studs (empty holes) in the RH manifold. One rear with easy access. One all the way forward (PITA access) but doable.

[Morpheus]

I just remembered the O2 sensor will need replacement. Is there a cross reference part, or does everyone just grab one from a vendor?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Difficulty would be relative to the number of and or location of existing broken studs.

I have a friend that has 2 broken studs (empty holes) in the RH manifold. One rear with easy access. One all the way forward (PITA access) but doable.

I've time-serted broken studs in every location over the years without ever having to R&R a motor for access. It is entirely doable with the correct tools and experience.
Rob

[DMC5180]

I've time-serted broken studs in every location over the years without ever having to R&R a motor for access. It is entirely doable with the correct tools and experience.
Rob

I've had the experience of removing the forward most broken stud on each side. Definitely doable with some forethought. I made a drill jig guide and bolted it up to the head using opposite corner threaded holes in the head. I bought a 90 deg air drill A couple short extractor sized drill bits. I was a bit fortunate that the flush broken piece was not frozen tight to the head. They backed out remarkably easy. I did not need to do any thread repairs.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I just remembered the O2 sensor will need replacement. Is there a cross reference part, or does everyone just grab one from a vendor?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Might as well get one from a vendor for what they cost
Rob

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks again, Rob!

I actually found it on AutoToolWorld.com for $27 shipped.

Here's a link for anyone who's interested:
http://www.autotoolworld.com/Assenmacher-200-7-7mm-Stud-Remover-Installer_p_125792.html

I'm seeing a significant price difference (as well as visual difference) between the Assenmacher and Fascom, does anyone here know if one is better than the other?

http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/ASM-200-7.html

http://www.grainger.com/product/FACOM-Stud-Extractor-36T851

[DMC5180]

Both are quality tools with the same basic design. I bought the assenmacher.
The facom tool is probably list price since it's through Grainger.


Dennis