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mr_maxime
04-03-2015, 03:48 PM
Im starting a thread for my new delorean. This is my first classic. Ive never worked on cars much, but I am a mechanical engineer and work at a crash facility. The most work ive put into a car was changing the oil pan gasket on my 2000 honda accord. I had mentioned having issues with the headlights and doorlights. Doorlights were unplugged along with many other lights to keep from draining battery. The headlights were user error, I thought the light switch was OFF-LOW-HIGH, and I just happened to have my high beams on... I ended up fixing the AC duct for the passenger, reinstalling a piece of trim that wasnt on and putting the rubber pads on the pedals. I couldnt fix the cigar lighter, but did find that the radio does seem to be getting power. Someone mentioned the matching tires in another thread, i noticed the front are 215 60 14 instead of the stock 195 60 14. My friend's dad pointed out that the alternator belt needed to be changed and was being burned. I assumed I was burning my clutch not knowing how to drive manual. I took several pictures of "problem" areas I noticed and other ones in case someone can point out problems that I dont know about yet.

Rusted front suspension
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124535_zpsjdv0skcz.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124535_zpsjdv0skcz.jpg.html)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124546_zpsmkm0ztry.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124546_zpsmkm0ztry.jpg.html)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124638_zpsoyppwm5a.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124638_zpsoyppwm5a.jpg.html)

Rear Suspension
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_125039_zpsz3kdq4ac.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_125039_zpsz3kdq4ac.jpg.html)

Bumper bolts rusted and broken (I couldnt make out this picture at first, until I realized that fibrous texture was grass reflected off the black paint)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124724_zpswthk7h8r.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124724_zpswthk7h8r.jpg.html)

A-Pillar trim warped. This, the headliner drooping and a shift boot not fitting are probably the only bad parts of the interior.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124806_zpsiazxmm8e.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124806_zpsiazxmm8e.jpg.html)

Not sure what this is called, but its seperating
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124813_zpsp0uiin0v.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124813_zpsp0uiin0v.jpg.html)

Shot of the front tires, you can see how theyre starting to crack
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124845_zpsycocscs4.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124845_zpsycocscs4.jpg.html)

Alternator belt. This used to get about 2 inches of deflection, more on that later
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124900_zpslhldt1xr.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124900_zpslhldt1xr.jpg.html)

Dont know what that is but it doesnt seem right
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124911_zpsf4l5qqmz.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124911_zpsf4l5qqmz.jpg.html)

Some paper like thing under the engine
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124941_zps7c9pea7s.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124941_zps7c9pea7s.jpg.html)

That is near the paper thing, cant really tell in the picture but coolant was dripping from it.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_125015_zpsq70yqhbq.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_125015_zpsq70yqhbq.jpg.html)

I think this is the fuel system, should be fairly new. Ive seen some with covers though
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_125119_zpschcrkazb.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_125119_zpschcrkazb.jpg.html)

Other random engine bay pictures, some of the more knowledge people can maybe spot some things. I know the light is disconnected now.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_125123_zpsy0bjzovg.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_125123_zpsy0bjzovg.jpg.html)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_125128_zps4rg1k0wn.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_125128_zps4rg1k0wn.jpg.html)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_125201_zpsri0i05om.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_125201_zpsri0i05om.jpg.html)


I drove the car around earlier and noticed the cooling fan failure light was flickering. Temp stayed at 100F which was odd. My friend noticed a little leak from the overflow on his driveway while I was going through the car. After connecting everything the battery had drained quite a bit, so while ordering food I left the car on to let the battery recharge. Coolant started gushing out of the overflow.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_133221_zpseiqjmynu.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_133221_zpseiqjmynu.jpg.html)

The drive home wasnt too far so I drove back. While looking for my garage door opener in the back I noticed the engine bay was smoking. I turned the car off and noticed it was coming from that bottle and more coolant was spraying. Again not working on cars much before I didnt realized this would be a mistake. My neighbors came out to help push the car into the garage and I noticed that the alternator belt was gone.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_134113_zpsn6z1pvcm.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_134113_zpsn6z1pvcm.jpg.html)

Thankfully, that blue accord in the background is mine so I can still get around. But Im thinking of buying the DMC major service kit for M/T with aftermarket plugs, the silicone hose kit from specialtauto.com and high flow fan from DPI as a starting point.

mr_maxime
04-03-2015, 04:09 PM
These are also the worse parts of the car I have found so far. i forgot to mention engine temp got to 220+ while spraying coolant. So things to fix somewhat in order of priority:
Alternator belt & Spraying coolant;
"Dead" Speedometer
New tires
Rusty suspension
VOD cleaning (this will have to wait for my move to a more permanent location)
Dead radio and cigar lighter

Once the car is paid of, these are improvements and mods im thinking of doing:
New door torsion springs
Led conversion, purple in doors and footwells, red at the top. This might happen sooner since it is rather cheap and will help with battery life
Gloss black wheels
Upgraded suspension
and eventually, a LS1 swap. Probably one the the last I plan on doing. Saving for when Im better at working on the car and driving a manual.

ccurzio
04-03-2015, 04:37 PM
The "paper thing" under the engine is your exhaust heat shield.

DO NOT FUCK WITH IT UNLESS YOU HAVE BREATHING PROTECTION. IT IS MADE OF ASBESTOS.



I think this is the fuel system, should be fairly new. Ive seen some with covers though
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_125119_zpschcrkazb.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_125119_zpschcrkazb.jpg.html)


Fuel system? Ehhhhh, noooo. No. That's your ignition coil.

DMCMW Dave
04-03-2015, 05:09 PM
Your electric cooling fans probably never came on. You'll need to fix that. Did you ever hear them?

Jonathan
04-03-2015, 05:15 PM
Im starting a thread for my new delorean. This is my first classic. Ive never worked on cars much, but I am a mechanical engineer and work at a crash facility. The most work ive put into a car was changing the oil pan gasket on my 2000 honda accord. I had mentioned having issues with the headlights and doorlights. Doorlights were unplugged along with many other lights to keep from draining battery. The headlights were user error, I thought the light switch was OFF-LOW-HIGH, and I just happened to have my high beams on... I ended up fixing the AC duct for the passenger, reinstalling a piece of trim that wasnt on and putting the rubber pads on the pedals. I couldnt fix the cigar lighter, but did find that the radio does seem to be getting power. Someone mentioned the matching tires in another thread, i noticed the front are 215 60 14 instead of the stock 195 60 14. My friend's dad pointed out that the alternator belt needed to be changed and was being burned. I assumed I was burning my clutch not knowing how to drive manual. I took several pictures of "problem" areas I noticed and other ones in case someone can point out problems that I dont know about yet.

Rusted front suspension

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124546_zpsmkm0ztry.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124546_zpsmkm0ztry.jpg.html)

It looks like you are missing the front end recall reinforcing brackets. Kit is here:

http://store.delorean.com/p-10229-front-end-recall-kit.aspx

I don't see the brackets, not sure about the castle nuts and cotter pins, etc. Can't tell from the photos.


Rear Suspension
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_125039_zpsz3kdq4ac.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_125039_zpsz3kdq4ac.jpg.html)

Given the surface rust on your suspension (front and rear), I would count on needing to get your brakes rebuilt (calipers) and fluid flushed. Perhaps the rotors will need turning too.

Not sure about the steering rack, a closer inspection would be recommended. Look for tears in the boots. I'd imagine your tie rod ends and the ball joints maybe in poor shape considering the areas next to them.

Not sure what that greyish goo is that looks to have dripped down in a couple spots on the front frame?


Not sure what this is called, but its seperating
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124813_zpsp0uiin0v.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124813_zpsp0uiin0v.jpg.html)

The part you mentioned as separating is the door seal:

http://store.delorean.com/p-10340-outer-door-seal-front.aspx

Likely just the glue needs attention. Not a big deal or fix.

In that same photo, the side finishing metal pieces along the windshield generally meet the top piece flush. Yours is sticking out some, as the top horizontal piece looks too short (which I'd assume is the side piece not flush and not the top piece being too short).

http://store.delorean.com/p-9322-a-post-finisher-lh.aspx

It is screwed into place in a couple spots. Yours might just have had a screw fall out. Don't worry, screws fall out all the time. The world is an imperfect place. :)


Shot of the front tires, you can see how theyre starting to crack
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124845_zpsycocscs4.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124845_zpsycocscs4.jpg.html)

Yea, cracking is no nice. See if you can find the date code on the sidewall and report back. Not that it matters too much as these should likely be replaced after seeing that cracking.


Alternator belt. This used to get about 2 inches of deflection, more on that later
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124900_zpslhldt1xr.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124900_zpslhldt1xr.jpg.html)

Yea, important. Charging the battery of course, but if the belt goes, your coolant doesn't flow and you get what you got with the overheat. Rule of thumb is, if you see the battery light come on, pull over immediately. Don't keep going even if you live just a couple more miles away.


Dont know what that is but it doesnt seem right
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124911_zpsf4l5qqmz.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124911_zpsf4l5qqmz.jpg.html)

That's the portion of the lower engine cover stay/bracket that is supposed to be attached to the underside of the lower cover. It's not a very amazing design, but yea, it won't work like that.

See if this image helps you understand how it is supposed to work:

http://store.delorean.com/c-312-8-4-4-engine-compartment-cover-lower.aspx

It's part number 10 on that diagram.


Some paper like thing under the engine
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_124941_zps7c9pea7s.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_124941_zps7c9pea7s.jpg.html)

Take Chris' advice, leave that badboy alone unless you take precautions for asbestos inhalation. That looks to be the one under the catalytic convertor. You have much more of yours left than my car had. Not sure what the going advice is on those in general? Bueller? Bueller?


That is near the paper thing, cant really tell in the picture but coolant was dripping from it.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_125015_zpsq70yqhbq.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_125015_zpsq70yqhbq.jpg.html)

That's the otterstat. That's a silly name for the "turn the cooling fans on switch." Hard to say if yours is working, since if it was, the fans would come on when the coolant gets hot, but since your coolant wasn't flowing, it was going to get hot anyway.

You can replace the seal for that and it likely stops the leak. Your otterstat "tee" is pointed in the proper direction though (down) so that is good. Take note of those leads there as we'll likely be jumpering those in the near future to prove your fans are working.

http://store.delorean.com/p-6348-cooling-fan-switch-with-seal-otterstat.aspx


I think this is the fuel system, should be fairly new. Ive seen some with covers though
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_125119_zpschcrkazb.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_125119_zpschcrkazb.jpg.html)

That's no moon, it's a space station. Just kidding, that's not the fuel system, it's your bulkhead connections (electrical) and the cylinder thingy is your ignition coil.

You have about the cleanest one I've ever seen so bonus marks for that. :)


Other random engine bay pictures, some of the more knowledge people can maybe spot some things. I know the light is disconnected now.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_125128_zps4rg1k0wn.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_125128_zps4rg1k0wn.jpg.html)

Ok, yea, you can see the engine bay light switch has the connection on the left disconnected. The plunger is supposed to hit into a small little tab and depress the plunger. It might be missing, not sure, maybe that's why it got disconnected?

http://store.delorean.com/p-9651-lgt-sw-actuator.aspx


http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150403_125201_zpsri0i05om.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150403_125201_zpsri0i05om.jpg.html)

Check your fuses against the colours/sizes that should be in there (the diagram is in the manual and on here in the resources section). There aren't any blue 15 Amp ones on purpose.


These are also the worse parts of the car I have found so far. i forgot to mention engine temp got to 220+ while spraying coolant. So things to fix somewhat in order of priority:
Alternator belt & Spraying coolant;
"Dead" Speedometer
New tires
Rusty suspension
VOD cleaning (this will have to wait for my move to a more permanent location)
Dead radio and cigar lighter

Priority order:
Alt belt and coolant
New tires
Rusty suspension (brake work, ball joints, tie rod ends, front end recall, etc. as mentioned above)
VOD cleaning can really wait unless you know there is a hole in the engine block waiting there for you. Not wait indefinitely maybe, but it doesn't need to be done right this second. I would get the car running reasonably well and safely and then go after the VOD. You need to take so much apart that if it isn't running well before you start, you'll never figure out what is not right to get it going once you do the reassembly.
The radio, cigar lighter and speedo are all items that can wait until the crucial ones are done. Speedo seems crucial, but it really isn't on this car.


Once the car is paid of, these are improvements and mods im thinking of doing:
New door torsion springs
Led conversion, purple in doors and footwells, red at the top. This might happen sooner since it is rather cheap and will help with battery life
Gloss black wheels
Upgraded suspension
and eventually, a LS1 swap. Probably one the the last I plan on doing. Saving for when Im better at working on the car and driving a manual.

Get the car safe and reliable before doing cosmetic stuff or big swaps or changes.

Or use this to decide: would you rather drive the car when it's less than cosmetically perfect or admire its cosmetic perfection while its stuck in the driveway? Wait on the cosmetic stuff.

mr_maxime
04-03-2015, 05:57 PM
Thanks for the detailed response. Again Im not used to working on cars, so I thought that ignition coil was the fuel system since it was the cleanest thing. I know the fuel system was worked on and figured the cleanest thing in the engine bay must be the fuel system. I bought a new belt from OReilly's and ordered the Major service kit and workshop manual from DMC. After what happened today, I probably wont be driving it much until I have Dave look at it. Im only an hour away from DMCMW and Id rather know what could fail before it fails than after. I completely agree with the cosmetic stuff, I plan on this being where I post everything on this car and didnt want it to just be about the maintenance lol. None of that would have made pushing my smoking delorean into the garage look any better. I already give so much crap to my coworker for all of his classics breaking down on him, I dont want to be in the same position haha.

ccurzio
04-03-2015, 06:36 PM
Please don't try and pour gasoline into your coil. :(

Bitsyncmaster
04-03-2015, 06:49 PM
If your fan fail light flickered, you may have the original fan fail unit (looks like a blue relay) that should be replaced. Those units failed and then your cooling fans would not work. The recall fix was to replace it with some jumpers.

mr_maxime
04-03-2015, 07:31 PM
Of course not! This is where the gas goes! :wink:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Mobile%20Uploads/20150403_175043_zps9pyyfbou.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150403_175043_zps9pyyfbou.jpg.html)


But in all seriousness. I generally do not mess with mechanical components without instructions or knowing what they are. This is why I'm currently inclined to fix some of the cosmetics with the car. I know it won't affect the car's reliability. Ive also changed out the stock sound system in my accord and some other cars. While they arent a priority, these types of things allow me to work on the car without someone more experienced. I always wanted to work on cars but my family's cars never needed work and I couldnt afford a classic car until now. I didnt want to get sucked into something I couldnt afford. Not really much to learn when all your cars have needed are gas and oil changes. Im assuming you were just making a joke, but I came here to learn how to do this stuff so I'm obviously not going to know what everything is.

mr_maxime
04-03-2015, 08:05 PM
That's the portion of the lower engine cover stay/bracket that is supposed to be attached to the underside of the lower cover. It's not a very amazing design, but yea, it won't work like that.

See if this image helps you understand how it is supposed to work:

http://store.delorean.com/c-312-8-4-4-engine-compartment-cover-lower.aspx

It's part number 10 on that diagram.


Not easy to tell from the diagram but I found a picture of how it should look. It seems that it broke a while ago which left some notches, I have been using these to prop the cover open.

mr_maxime
04-03-2015, 08:42 PM
Found the fuse box info... Multiple incorrect fuses used in mine

mr_maxime
04-04-2015, 04:48 PM
Got all of the correct fuses in now. Ive been working trying to remove the rear bumper and having troubles with it. I found this and numbered it for reference.



1.Remove engine cover latch plate
2.Disconnect latch cable
3.Remove side markers and disconnect bulb wires (N7 screws)
4.Remove coil cover and disconnect black bulkhead connector
5.Remove all the nuts from the studs in the fascia going through the muffler heat shield (in my case these are bolts and nuts) (M6 bolts/nuts)
6.Remove nuts connecting fascia to the fenders down low (these are also bolts and nuts for me) (M6 bolts/nuts)
7.Remove Taillights (M5 bolts)
8,Remove any bolts going through fascia support piece into the pontoon (may require removal of carbon canister and intake hose) (usually M6 bolts)
9.Remove bolts going to fascia mounting L brackets (M8 bolts)


I got 4,6,7 and 9. Im pretty sure I got 8. I think all that's left that's holding it on are the bolts from 5. The bulk head connector is still zip tied to the engine bay and I can't figure out how to disconnect the latch cable. Im also not sure what 3 is referring to.

I also removed the engine cover to see if I could find a way to patch the breaks from the bracket. A lot of my bolts are rusted, some shearing off, so I plan on replacing them with some stainless steel ones. That way Ill have to worry about rust even less.

DMCMW Dave
04-04-2015, 05:13 PM
Got all of the correct fuses in now. Ive been working trying to remove the rear bumper and having troubles with it. I found this and numbered it for reference.



I got 4,6,7 and 9. Im pretty sure I got 8. I think all that's left that's holding it on are the bolts from 5. The bulk head connector is still zip tied to the engine bay and I can't figure out how to disconnect the latch cable. Im also not sure what 3 is referring to.

I also removed the engine cover to see if I could find a way to patch the breaks from the bracket. A lot of my bolts are rusted, some shearing off, so I plan on replacing them with some stainless steel ones. That way Ill have to worry about rust even less.

Remove the small metal cover and the cable should be pretty obvious. You can unbolt the entire latch mechanism and pull it through the access hole.


#3 is the red marker lights in the quarter panels. The wires and bulbs will come out the back with the fascia.

PJ Grady Inc.
04-04-2015, 06:16 PM
You should replace all your fuses as all but the first are original and they melt/overheat as they oxidize. You fan circuit breakers are also original and are likely failing. Your coolant sender/otterstat in the other picture is leaking and it's usually because the sender housing has cracked from corrosion within which will also stop the fans. Replace both the sender and the seal.

Your L/H upper control arm is so rusted if you have it glass beaded there wont be much left! You should probably replace both upper arms as they are not overly expensive. The lowers are expensive so it would pay to have those restored IF they are structuraly strong enough. They should be removed, glass beaded, inspected and powdercoated if they are reusable. Fit all new bushings. The original balljoints are high quality and may be reusable depending on wear and mileage. If they don't move easily (meaning not loose....there should be "stiction" before movement) and have no inner rust they can be used with new boots.

Your brakes, steering, suspension, cooling system, etc. have to be as good as new (preferably better as in improved over stock) before you even contemplate a ditterent high output motor. This car needs a full restoration before you could do a V8 conversion safely. We can assist you with parts or service or even a V8 conversion when/if the time comes.
Rob Grady




It looks like you are missing the front end recall reinforcing brackets. Kit is here:

http://store.delorean.com/p-10229-front-end-recall-kit.aspx

I don't see the brackets, not sure about the castle nuts and cotter pins, etc. Can't tell from the photos.



Given the surface rust on your suspension (front and rear), I would count on needing to get your brakes rebuilt (calipers) and fluid flushed. Perhaps the rotors will need turning too.

Not sure about the steering rack, a closer inspection would be recommended. Look for tears in the boots. I'd imagine your tie rod ends and the ball joints maybe in poor shape considering the areas next to them.

Not sure what that greyish goo is that looks to have dripped down in a couple spots on the front frame?



The part you mentioned as separating is the door seal:

http://store.delorean.com/p-10340-outer-door-seal-front.aspx

Likely just the glue needs attention. Not a big deal or fix.

In that same photo, the side finishing metal pieces along the windshield generally meet the top piece flush. Yours is sticking out some, as the top horizontal piece looks too short (which I'd assume is the side piece not flush and not the top piece being too short).

http://store.delorean.com/p-9322-a-post-finisher-lh.aspx

It is screwed into place in a couple spots. Yours might just have had a screw fall out. Don't worry, screws fall out all the time. The world is an imperfect place. :)



Yea, cracking is no nice. See if you can find the date code on the sidewall and report back. Not that it matters too much as these should likely be replaced after seeing that cracking.



Yea, important. Charging the battery of course, but if the belt goes, your coolant doesn't flow and you get what you got with the overheat. Rule of thumb is, if you see the battery light come on, pull over immediately. Don't keep going even if you live just a couple more miles away.



That's the portion of the lower engine cover stay/bracket that is supposed to be attached to the underside of the lower cover. It's not a very amazing design, but yea, it won't work like that.

See if this image helps you understand how it is supposed to work:

http://store.delorean.com/c-312-8-4-4-engine-compartment-cover-lower.aspx

It's part number 10 on that diagram.



Take Chris' advice, leave that badboy alone unless you take precautions for asbestos inhalation. That looks to be the one under the catalytic convertor. You have much more of yours left than my car had. Not sure what the going advice is on those in general? Bueller? Bueller?



That's the otterstat. That's a silly name for the "turn the cooling fans on switch." Hard to say if yours is working, since if it was, the fans would come on when the coolant gets hot, but since your coolant wasn't flowing, it was going to get hot anyway.

You can replace the seal for that and it likely stops the leak. Your otterstat "tee" is pointed in the proper direction though (down) so that is good. Take note of those leads there as we'll likely be jumpering those in the near future to prove your fans are working.

http://store.delorean.com/p-6348-cooling-fan-switch-with-seal-otterstat.aspx



That's no moon, it's a space station. Just kidding, that's not the fuel system, it's your bulkhead connections (electrical) and the cylinder thingy is your ignition coil.

You have about the cleanest one I've ever seen so bonus marks for that. :)



Ok, yea, you can see the engine bay light switch has the connection on the left disconnected. The plunger is supposed to hit into a small little tab and depress the plunger. It might be missing, not sure, maybe that's why it got disconnected?

http://store.delorean.com/p-9651-lgt-sw-actuator.aspx



Check your fuses against the colours/sizes that should be in there (the diagram is in the manual and on here in the resources section). There aren't any blue 15 Amp ones on purpose.



Priority order:
Alt belt and coolant
New tires
Rusty suspension (brake work, ball joints, tie rod ends, front end recall, etc. as mentioned above)
VOD cleaning can really wait unless you know there is a hole in the engine block waiting there for you. Not wait indefinitely maybe, but it doesn't need to be done right this second. I would get the car running reasonably well and safely and then go after the VOD. You need to take so much apart that if it isn't running well before you start, you'll never figure out what is not right to get it going once you do the reassembly.
The radio, cigar lighter and speedo are all items that can wait until the crucial ones are done. Speedo seems crucial, but it really isn't on this car.



Get the car safe and reliable before doing cosmetic stuff or big swaps or changes.

Or use this to decide: would you rather drive the car when it's less than cosmetically perfect or admire its cosmetic perfection while its stuck in the driveway? Wait on the cosmetic stuff.

mr_maxime
04-04-2015, 06:52 PM
You should replace all your fuses as all but the first are original and they melt/overheat as they oxidize. You fan circuit breakers are also original and are likely failing. Your coolant sender/otterstat in the other picture is leaking and it's usually because the sender housing has cracked from corrosion within which will also stop the fans. Replace both the sender and the seal.

Your L/H upper control arm is so rusted if you have it glass beaded there wont be much left! You should probably replace both upper arms as they are not overly expensive. The lowers are expensive so it would pay to have those restored IF they are structuraly strong enough. They should be removed, glass beaded, inspected and powdercoated if they are reusable. Fit all new bushings. The original balljoints are high quality and may be reusable depending on wear and mileage. If they don't move easily (meaning not loose....there should be "stiction" before movement) and have no inner rust they can be used with new boots.

Your brakes, steering, suspension, cooling system, etc. have to be as good as new (preferably better as in improved over stock) before you even contemplate a ditterent high output motor. This car needs a full restoration before you could do a V8 conversion safely. We can assist you with parts or service or even a V8 conversion when/if the time comes.
Rob Grady

Thanks for the input. The V8 swap is way down the road and I agree with getting it good as new. Im wary of driving it even after it gets a new alternator belt. Im pacing myself on parts right now until payday and I will probably need to have this car transported down to Alabama or Georgia in about a month.

I got the latch cable out. Currently letting some WD-40 soak in the bolts through the heat shield.

EDIT: Also will need a new market light gasket. Front driver was missing on and bulb rusted into the socket.

mr_maxime
04-04-2015, 09:09 PM
finally got the rear fascia off
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150404_193648_zpsq87gwglk.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150404_193648_zpsq87gwglk.jpg.html)

I think the new plan is to finish replacing alternator belt and put the car back together. Send to DMC dave for inspection, then store until I move back south. I dont really have the time or tools for major mechanical work here in Wisconsin.

Also is the fan fail light supposed to be constantly on? I think I read in another thread that it being on means the fans are working but off means they arent, because mine have definitely been off the majority of the time.

DMCMW Dave
04-05-2015, 01:06 AM
They should not be on. Light on means fan has failed. The blue module needs to be replaced with the recall jumper.

mr_maxime
04-05-2015, 02:49 PM
Will do. i also sent you a PM about the inspection. I got the belt on but cant seem to tighten it enough by myself so a friend is coming over to help.

I noticed that the stainless on the pontoon was cut. Not sure if this is normal but one of the cuts goes right through. This is on both sides.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150405_122818_zps4ajspdym.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150405_122818_zps4ajspdym.jpg.html)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150405_122832_zpsi9qvhpkq.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150405_122832_zpsi9qvhpkq.jpg.html)

The pieces where the spoiler bolts to the pontoons are both bent. I think the car may have been rear ended at some point. Seems to be the only damaged part, and there were no accidents reported on the Carfax.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150405_122840_zpsrqt6g5kh.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150405_122840_zpsrqt6g5kh.jpg.html)

mr_maxime
04-05-2015, 04:42 PM
Belts are in. Started the car and turned on the AC, my friend said you could somewhat hear the radiator fans turn on. Also while idling my car will bounce between 750rpm to 1100rpm.

DMCMW Dave
04-05-2015, 08:48 PM
That cutting is normal on the pontoons. Factory or QAC work to make the body fit together. We see it on many cars.

Dangermouse
04-08-2015, 08:51 AM
fwiw, I wouldn't put much faith in a Carfax report on a D. Many state DMV records weren't computerized until the late 90s so anything that happedend to it before that, in terms of dealer repairs etc, won't have been captured.

The best thing is an inspection, which you have arranged, and then prioritize your spending based on those recommendations.

Out of curiosity, how may miles are on it? Do you know anything of its history before you got it (had it been stored for a prolonged period etc. Actually this is where a carfax can be useful as you can see the annual mileage between emissions if it was from a state where this was recorded)

mr_maxime
04-08-2015, 07:33 PM
The auto check I got had lots of emissions records in the 2000s. I also have a receipt for an oil change in 2010 showing 9964 miles. The odometer now shows 11,300 something miles. The original owner passed away in 2011 so I don't think it was driven much in recent years especially since the fuel system was redone.

Also just got my workshop manual and major service kit.

mr_maxime
04-08-2015, 09:55 PM
One of the doors must not have been closed properly last night since my battery is dead lol. Took the center console apart trying to trace the radio and cigar lighter problems. Found lots of corrosion around the cigar lighter.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150408_201044_zpsjm73hz4t.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150408_201044_zpsjm73hz4t.jpg.html)

Still not sure what is wrong with the radio though.

mr_maxime
04-08-2015, 11:04 PM
Searching through the forum I was able to find where the inline fuses where. One of them was blown and both were also the wrong rating. Ill get replacements but hopefully this hasnt killed the radio.

mr_maxime
04-10-2015, 06:40 PM
Coolant must have weakened my air intake hose cause it broke when replacing the air filter...

mr_maxime
04-11-2015, 01:04 PM
Ugh. Got a replacement universal air duct from oreillys. Had to get a hose clamp to keep it attached, but hopefully itll work. i just cant get this tube reconnected to the one in the pontoon.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150411_115955_zpsb2z4doez.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150411_115955_zpsb2z4doez.jpg.html)

mr_maxime
04-11-2015, 06:42 PM
So I decided to try to bypass that elbow joint and just connected the air duct to the pontoon seeing as how this is the "cold air intake" people are using. It took a long time but i got the stove out. I was fighting some heavily rusted bolts. Funny how changing the air filter turned into a rather long project. Wrestling those bolts and using non ratcheting wrenches really eats up a lot of time.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/IMG_20150411_125440_zpsc875zyxz.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/IMG_20150411_125440_zpsc875zyxz.jpg.html)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150411_173253_zpshls2wupb.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150411_173253_zpshls2wupb.jpg.html)

mr_maxime
04-11-2015, 09:10 PM
I refilled the coolant bottle and got started on the interior again. Center console instrumentation is hooked up again and I fished out the defrost light. I couldnt get the air vents lined up right so Ill be sticking them in the freezer overnight as suggested by other members.

DMCMW Dave
04-12-2015, 12:00 AM
I refilled the coolant bottle and got started on the interior again. Center console instrumentation is hooked up again and I fished out the defrost light. I couldnt get the air vents lined up right so Ill be sticking them in the freezer overnight as suggested by other members.

We stretch them over a large plastic hammer overnight.

mr_maxime
04-12-2015, 01:22 AM
Hopefully this works. Id have to look for something to stretch them with. i only had a set of wrenches before I bought the car so ive been slowly buying tools.

mr_maxime
04-12-2015, 10:03 PM
Freezing didnt help much. Since I had the center console out, I messed around with them a lot until I finally got them in. Everything is back on except the tail lights. Once i jump the start Ill find out if I fixed the radio or not.

Nicholas R
04-12-2015, 10:45 PM
I couldnt get the air vents lined up right so Ill be sticking them in the freezer overnight as suggested by other members.

What are you sticking in the freezer and how does that help??

mr_maxime
04-13-2015, 12:17 AM
The rubber boots that connect to the AC vents on the faceplate. Didnt help me much though


I found that chucking the boots in the freezer for a couple hours prior to reinstallation hardens the rubber up enough to make them an easy install.

mr_maxime
04-13-2015, 09:56 PM
Radio is working!
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150413_203829_zpsrmbmmas2.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150413_203829_zpsrmbmmas2.jpg.html)

Purple door light lenses!
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/IMG_20150413_194307_zpsf287kuew.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/IMG_20150413_194307_zpsf287kuew.jpg.html)


The trunk and engine bay lights have been replaced with LEDs. The fans do come on but the failing fan light is flickering. I put the door lock light in the defrost... I drove around without overheating and the alternator belt still looks good. The fuel gage seems to be wrong though. It was at 0 and when I tried filling up I only put in 4 gallons before it stopped.

ccurzio
04-14-2015, 07:35 AM
You might need a new fuel sender.

I wholeheartedly recommend the pump/sender combo unit from DMCH. A bit pricey and the warranty is too short but it's a good unit. That is, of course, if you're willing to replace your pump.

mr_maxime
04-14-2015, 09:39 AM
Dmcmw is coming to pick up the car tonight. Coworkers told me that is a pain in the ass to fix so I might just get DMC to take care of that. Dave and I discussed inspecting the car then going over it in person on Saturday.

By the way, driving with the doors open at night is one of the most exciting things I've ever done!

ccurzio
04-14-2015, 11:13 AM
By the way, driving with the doors open at night is one of the most exciting things I've ever done!

This is a really good way to fuck up your torsion bars.

DMCMW Dave
04-14-2015, 12:11 PM
This is a really good way to fuck up your torsion bars.

Not so much the torsion bars, but it's hell on the hinges and the stud mounts for the struts.

mr_maxime
04-14-2015, 07:35 PM
Good to know lol. We were doing less than 20mph and it was rather short.

mr_maxime
04-14-2015, 10:52 PM
And the D is off to DMCMW

DMCMW Dave
04-16-2015, 08:55 PM
And the D is off to DMCMW

And here it is.
33893

33894

33895

Domi
04-17-2015, 01:05 PM
In good hands :)

mr_maxime
04-17-2015, 06:51 PM
I wonder which one of those is mine lol

Farrar
04-20-2015, 12:02 PM
I like those exhaust tips.

mr_maxime
04-20-2015, 06:43 PM
I like those exhaust tips.

Are those not the stock ones? never paid attention to them

refugeefromcalif
04-20-2015, 06:56 PM
Are those not the stock ones? never paid attention to them

Do they say DMC on top of them? If so, they might be from a stage one exhaust.
Stock is not angle cut like yours.

BTW, Nice looking painted D... :thumbup:

George

mr_maxime
04-20-2015, 07:07 PM
Definitely not a stage 1 exhaust and I did not see a DMC logo on them. Might have missed it though.

DMCMW Dave
04-20-2015, 07:46 PM
Definitely not a stage 1 exhaust and I did not see a DMC logo on them. Might have missed it though.

It's a stock 1982 style muffler.

Farrar
04-20-2015, 07:58 PM
It's a stock 1982 style muffler.

Interesting. I guess the 1981s just had straight-cut ones like mine.

mr_maxime
04-25-2015, 05:54 PM
I went down to DMCMW and I dont know what they did, but I cant fit into my car anymore.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150425_163246_zpswyoz9zfq.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150425_163246_zpswyoz9zfq.jpg.html)


Working with my budget and time constraints, my car will have the engine further inspected since it is running rather sluggish at times and get new tires. It also several other parts I will install or attempt to install myself. I just wish I had a better timeline in terms of moving to alabama.

mr_maxime
06-13-2015, 01:10 PM
Got my car back from DMCMW. The oreilly belt I had on burnt off, probably due to not being tight enough. I drove the 800 mile trip with nearly no issues. The sideskirt started falling off and scraping the road so I had to duct tape it on and the antenna is pretty much dead.

Otherwise, DMC found that the installed fuel pump was incorrect and put a DMC one in. They installed new injectors, fixed my AC which was really needed, put new tires on, and replaced the trailing arm bolts with the inconel ones. I still have to install my new speedo kit, brake pads and a radio I got from my sisters car.

mr_maxime
08-12-2015, 08:02 PM
I got my car in Alabama now. I put a new oil pressure sensor on at work. We threw it up on the lift to start taking a crack at the angle drive and I noticed this on the passenger side.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150811_182459_zpstgh1hdgd.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150811_182459_zpstgh1hdgd.jpg.html)

It looks fairly old, dont know how much this impacts the car seeing as how the fiberglass is also damaged. We got as far as trying to take the large nut out, but couldnt get it to budge before we gave up. Then on my drive home in the dark, I hit a large piece of truck tire I couldnt see. The car stopped getting gas and I had to pull over. I turned it off and i tried turning it back on, but it just cranks. It doesnt sound like the fuel pump is running. It wouldnt start last saturday, but after talking to DMC Dave, I checked the connections and tapped the RPM relay. This seemed to work since it started. I tried the same on the side of the road, but it was a no go. As far as I can tell, there doesnt seem to be much damage. The passenger horn got knocked higher up and there are some tire marks on the body. The fuses are all good too.

My guess is that the impact knocked something loosed or maybe the RPM relay is toast. Also the weatherstripping on the right door is now leaking. There was a torrent of rain on Monday and the passenger side is still wet.

andy blackmon
08-12-2015, 09:05 PM
I live just north of Bham. I have replaced or worked on almost every part of a Delorean 33years of owning has made me a fair hand with these cars.If you need a hand with anything or advice let me know, i will be glad to help .PM me and i will give you a phone number . I like the paint job. Andy B

bfloyd
08-14-2015, 12:14 AM
If you hit that chunk of truck tire hard enough to do some damage to the horns, I'd almost bet you popped the inertia switch under the dash. It's job is to cut off the fuel pump. Find the switch under the dash and check to see if the plunger is popped up . If it is, push it back down and try to start the car .

mr_maxime
08-14-2015, 08:58 AM
I checked the inertia switch and the plunger was down. I pulled it up and pushed it back down to make sure

mr_maxime
08-14-2015, 07:47 PM
DMCMW Dave suggested I take out the inertia switch and jump the black wires together. While doing that I noticed that the inertia switch wasnt even plugged in and the wires were already jumped.

mr_maxime
08-19-2015, 09:45 PM
I got the relay update from DMC and changed them all out. The car still isnt starting. We checked power to the fuel pump and ignition coil. I dont think we got a reading on from the plug to the pump, but we could feel it pumping to the engine. The coil did have power, but the spark plugs would not spark. My coworker called it a night and I started taking out the radio.

Andrew
08-20-2015, 11:42 AM
I got the relay update from DMC and changed them all out. The car still isnt starting. We checked power to the fuel pump and ignition coil. I dont think we got a reading on from the plug to the pump, but we could feel it pumping to the engine. The coil did have power, but the spark plugs would not spark. My coworker called it a night and I started taking out the radio.

Sounds like an issue between the ignition control module and the distributor. First of all, check fuse 1, if that is good check the yellowish plug near the driver's side firewall. It may have come loose if the retaining clip is missing. Next check the resistance in your distributor pulse coil, this can be accomplished by unplugging the distributor pulse wire at the yellowish plug and measuring the resistance between the two leads. It should be at .5 OHM. If there is an open circuit or no resistance the pulse coil or the wire leading to the distributor has failed.

Off the top of my head I can't recall the procedure for checking the ignition control module. While failures of the ICM have been documented, it is pretty rare.

mr_maxime
08-20-2015, 06:45 PM
I get 600ohms checking the leads on the yellow part and open circuit on the white part.

DMCMW Dave
08-20-2015, 10:38 PM
I get 600ohms checking the leads on the yellow part and open circuit on the white part.

Sounds about right. The white part is the input to the ECU, careful what you feed in there as it's very low voltage normally.

If you can't find any obvious missing/wrong voltages, this is where a buddy with another car comes in handy to start borrowing expensive parts (ECUs) to test.

ECU failure is rare, it is still most likely that you have a bad connection in a harness connector. You need to get a schematic and start tracing out the ignition system looking for a voltage that isn't where it is supposed to be. At some point it comes to old fashioned circuit tracing and/or parts substitution.

mr_maxime
08-21-2015, 07:53 AM
Andy blackmon and I will be meeting up this weekend to look over it.

refugeefromcalif
08-21-2015, 07:15 PM
Let us know how it works out!
BTW, I've met Andy and he's a Great guy and very knowledgeable about DeLoreans.

I never did catch, What part of Alabama are you in?

George

mr_maxime
08-21-2015, 08:14 PM
I live by lake purdy in birmingham.

mr_maxime
08-22-2015, 04:25 PM
Lot of thanks to Andy and DMC Dave. Andy helped me figured out what it wasnt and Dave pointed me in the right direction. The wire that goes to the ignition coil from the yellow plug came unseated and wasnt making contact. I seated it back in and the car fired right up.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/Message_1440270853344_zpsbgwmri4i.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/Message_1440270853344_zpsbgwmri4i.jpg.html)

I had fun hanging out with Dave and talking about Deloreans. He was the 2nd person to suggest I get the chrome wheels lol. He let me drive his Stage 2 and damn that feels nice. Sounds a lot better too.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150822_122031_zpsczgmuyh6.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150822_122031_zpsczgmuyh6.jpg.html)

refugeefromcalif
08-22-2015, 04:44 PM
Great that it's running again! :rock_on: (I tend to double check and re-seat my bulkhead connectors around once a month).

When you say DMC Dave, are you talking about calling DMCMW Dave Swingle?

Andy's done some Nice things to personalize his car.
Did Andy tell you too Punch It when driving his Stage 2? (He told me that when I drove it, and I wished I had now)... :mechbull:

George

Bitsyncmaster
08-22-2015, 04:51 PM
One of those pins in the yellow bulkhead connector is spaced to far. You can use a little jewelers screwdriver to close the ends up. It may be intermittent if left like that.

I like to keep a pin and socket on a heavy wire to use for testing each pin tension. I do the same for relay socket pins.

mr_maxime
08-22-2015, 08:06 PM
Lol yeah he told me to punch it. Still not used to driving a manual very well though and his gated shifter was throwing me off. Also yes I mean DMCMW Dave.

I'll probably go back and check all of the bulkhead connectors now. I also got through cutting the faceplate for the radio but I need to cut more out. I went conservative with it at with.

mr_maxime
08-24-2015, 10:25 PM
Found another loose connector. I think the wire goes to the ballast resistor.

So i got the radio installed, man that was the worst one Ive ever done. Drilled a new hole in the metal bracket to hold it in place, had a slightly less rough time with the AC vent boots. Did a test in the morning before I put the console back in and sound only came out of the left side. When I actually went to work on it, quickly noticed my aux cable was damaged. Since my casette player was broken, this will be the first time I get to drive my delorean blasting synthwave. It feels like everything in my life has been leading up to this. So excited about tomorrow. Also will get a picture then.

I could have driven it tonight but I didnt want to hit another tire since it was dark by the time I got done with everything.

mr_maxime
09-29-2015, 09:28 PM
Here's a pic of the new radio. It's been working pretty great, being able to finally listen to synthwave. One of the speakers kept cutting out before and this is no longer an issue.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20150826_175727_zpsnxybfl4e.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20150826_175727_zpsnxybfl4e.jpg.html)

I also bought these on ebay http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjE4WDE2MDA=/z/h2kAAOSwnDZUBSTN/$_57.JPG They should hopefully be here before the SEDOC meeting.

mr_maxime
06-05-2016, 11:42 AM
Major work started at my dads house. I started stripping the paint last weekend. I got at least 80% of it removed now. Got plenty of things to fix now. I'll be fixing the broken studs in the front spoiler. I got plenty of parts being prepared for powder coating. I'll get the broken studs fixed on the rock screen as well. Hopefully I can meet up with sound killer soon and fix the driver front fender. I'll be finally wiring the led halo in my headlights while I'm here.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20160605_113114_zpssli3bbzt.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20160605_113114_zpssli3bbzt.jpg.html)

mr_maxime
06-12-2016, 11:23 AM
Around 90% of the paint is gone now. On the passenger side it's just the nooks and crannies that still have paint left, such as around the window seals.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20160612_111753_zpsr0o7ubdm.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20160612_111753_zpsr0o7ubdm.jpg.html)

DMCMW Dave
06-12-2016, 12:04 PM
Around 90% of the paint is gone now. On the passenger side it's just the nooks and crannies that still have paint left, such as around the window seals.

]
Looking good. You'll find this is an
80/20 rule job. 80% of the visible project takes 20% of the time.


Sent from phone

mr_maxime
06-12-2016, 09:10 PM
Thanks. i plan on using my walnut blaster in those nooks and crannies. Not very effective for the flat surfaces but should be able to reach the spots where I dont want to sand or chemically strip.

Since the grain was already nearly gone, I will be mirror polishing the car.

mr_maxime
06-18-2016, 10:50 AM
Man mobile is terrible. I had a message typed out but lost it.anyways walnut blasting is working out great around the windows but I might have to remove the door handles and locks. Unfortunately I ran out of walnut media and harbor freight is out.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20160618_104253_zpslsvttfyt.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20160618_104253_zpslsvttfyt.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20160618_104247_zpslowzwyxm.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20160618_104247_zpslowzwyxm.jpg.html)

mr_maxime
06-18-2016, 08:54 PM
Harbor freight had walnuts in the back so I was able to finish the windows. The non functional vents still have some paint cause the walnuts shells were still too big for some of the gaps. I started testing how to polish the car and the grain is still a massive amount of work to remove. Both power sanders I have are nearly useless. I have to manually sand with 100 grit to even try to remove it. I then tested one section of the T-panel. I did 100, 120, 220, 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1500 then polished with rouge and my dremel. Still not quite mirrored.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20160618_204520_zpshd2yszc7.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20160618_204520_zpshd2yszc7.jpg.html)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20160618_204546_zpskh3h9vn9.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20160618_204546_zpskh3h9vn9.jpg.html)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20160618_204553_zpsq0jdeykd.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20160618_204553_zpsq0jdeykd.jpg.html)

Rich_NYS
06-19-2016, 05:31 PM
:thumbup:

mr_maxime
06-25-2016, 02:48 PM
My accord took a dump after work friday so I couldnt drive to georgia to work on my car, but my dad decided to start polishing and sent me these pictures.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/IMG_2547_zpsa7wklsk0.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/IMG_2547_zpsa7wklsk0.jpg.html)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/IMG_2546_zpswzkgqyq3.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/IMG_2546_zpswzkgqyq3.jpg.html)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/IMG_4457_zpszt9xprtx.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/IMG_4457_zpszt9xprtx.jpg.html)

I didnt start with that part cause there's still paint left around the vents lol, but at least that should still be good chunk of work already done.

mr_maxime
07-25-2016, 06:42 PM
Got my 3m panel bond adhesive and started working on the eyebrows

Before
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20160723_114434_zpstwclsr4s.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20160723_114434_zpstwclsr4s.jpg.html)

After
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20160724_081521_zpswj6mftvh.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20160724_081521_zpswj6mftvh.jpg.html)

The rest
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20160724_105132_zps4xekwkqk.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20160724_105132_zps4xekwkqk.jpg.html)

Also put bonded some aluminum sheets to the fiberglass behind the grill so I can use double sided tape on the next pair of HIDs
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20160723_131537_zpsegsq7iuj.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20160723_131537_zpsegsq7iuj.jpg.html)

mr_maxime
03-11-2017, 07:08 PM
Started installing the front end recall kit today. Realized I already have castle nuts so I won't be doing those.

I read that the sway bar is under tension and I was loosening each bolt a little bit at a time as suggested on a delorean blog post. My friend was watching me and said I should use the jack to keep it from swinging down. This went pretty smoothly and I didn't get knocked on the head, although I was working from the front of the car anyways.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170311_131951_zpsv1xte3a5.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170311_131951_zpsv1xte3a5.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170311_154908_zpsxk7fhdg0.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170311_154908_zpsxk7fhdg0.jpg.html)
It looks like I'll have to get a new one eventually since there is a decent amount of pitting on this. I'll be painting it with some rustoleum for now though.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170311_183524_zpscwhlka8j.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170311_183524_zpscwhlka8j.jpg.html)

While I'm here I'll be getting some new bushings as well and fixing my tie rod ends.

iflights
03-12-2017, 12:27 PM
Started installing the front end recall kit today. Realized I already have castle nuts so I won't be doing those.

I read that the sway bar is under tension and I was loosening each bolt a little bit at a time as suggested on a delorean blog post. My friend was watching me and said I should use the jack to keep it from swinging down. This went pretty smoothly and I didn't get knocked on the head, although I was working from the front of the car anyways.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170311_131951_zpsv1xte3a5.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170311_131951_zpsv1xte3a5.jpg.html)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170311_154908_zpsxk7fhdg0.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170311_154908_zpsxk7fhdg0.jpg.html)
It looks like I'll have to get a new one eventually since there is a decent amount of pitting on this. I'll be painting it with some rustoleum for now though.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170311_183524_zpscwhlka8j.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170311_183524_zpscwhlka8j.jpg.html)

While I'm here I'll be getting some new bushings as well and fixing my tie rod ends.

Great post. I'm going to be doing this job shortly myself. How much tension did you find the sway bar under? Will I need another set of hands to manage it?

mr_maxime
03-12-2017, 02:57 PM
I don't really know how much tension it's under. I lifted the jack just high enough to cup the sway bar. Id just get an extra jack for things like this. It's also nice for getting some extra torque at times like when changing out the angle drive.

Bitsyncmaster
03-12-2017, 03:39 PM
There is not really any tension with the wheels off the ground.

iflights
03-12-2017, 08:20 PM
There is not really any tension with the wheels off the ground.

Thanks guys, I feel more confident now.

mr_maxime
03-14-2017, 12:17 PM
Radiator is out and I didn't damage the condenser other than breaking off a stud. I sprayed a decent amount of pb blaster on it but it's hard to tell when rust is breaking loose or the stud is at that size.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170314_121043_zpswnuipuqz.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170314_121043_zpswnuipuqz.jpg.html)

I should have brought new brackets seeing as how bent these ones got though.

mr_maxime
03-15-2017, 03:36 PM
Got the wiring prepared for the fans. I used some weatherproof connectors from McMaster. I couldn't figure out whether I need to keep the smaller gauge wires with the new fans but I kept them anyways. I had to strip back extra length of wire and twist the 2 together then shrink wrap them together so they would fit in the little rubber seal.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170315_145833_zpsu5dzmqic.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170315_145833_zpsu5dzmqic.jpg.html)

I'm a bit stressed at the moment because I ordered some new radiator brackets from DPI but I haven't heard from him and my order still hasn't shipped. I need this car driving on sunday. Maybe I can reuse the old stuff temporarily.

FABombjoy
03-15-2017, 04:00 PM
I'm a bit stressed at the moment because I ordered some new radiator brackets from DPI but I haven't heard from him and my order still hasn't shipped.
Are your upper brackets bent?

If so, they were practically installed as a courtesy from the factory. As long as the mounting tabs aren't ready to fall off I wouldn't hesitate to reuse them.

Seriously I think the hoses do just as much work for holding the whole assembly in place. I R&Red the entire radiator/condenser/fans last summer and had a chuckle at how nearly superflous the upper brackets are.

mr_maxime
03-15-2017, 04:29 PM
Yep those brackets. The stud sheared off of one them. I soaked it in pb blaster and still broke it.

FABombjoy
03-15-2017, 07:04 PM
Just drill it out and put a bolt / nut in place. They're easy enough to swap later.

mr_maxime
03-15-2017, 07:13 PM
That'd be a lot easier had I remember to bring my Dremel lol.

Anyways did a little clean up since I was in there, plus I'm sick of getting so much grease all over myself.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170315_152425_zpscp1mbdka.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170315_152425_zpscp1mbdka.jpg.html)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170315_180455_zpssidzp9ym.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170315_180455_zpssidzp9ym.jpg.html)

mr_maxime
03-21-2017, 07:22 PM
Time to post some pictures now that Im done and back at my place.

One of the AC condenser studs sheared off so I had to drill a new one in place. I used one of the old parts and clamped it on with a spring clamp to keep the drill from damaging the condenser once it got through the bracket.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170317_142152_zpsrz4oyc5u.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170317_142152_zpsrz4oyc5u.jpg.html)

I had to shave down an old wrench to hold the nut in place behind the bracket. If i had thought to bring my dremel, I would have notched out the hole and used it to panel bond a stainless bolt in. There was not enough room to pass a bolt otherwise. Note that this is the DMCEU radiator and is bolted in place vs the stock one which uses studs (I bought stainless nyloc studs before receiving it)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170317_215224_zpsmd6rvkjm.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170317_215224_zpsmd6rvkjm.jpg.html)

The finished product. I got the DPI front end recall kit and fans, and a DMCEU radiator. The radiator holes did not line up even with the stock shroud so I drilled them on the radiator. In the process I sanded my strut bar and sprayed it with black rustoleum along the the horn brackets. Would have done the lower radiator mounts but I didnt have a wire wheel and completely forgot about sand blaster. Fitting the reinforcement bracket was a lot trickier than I expected. It's not a simple bolt-in as I expected and the radiator support will need to be twe
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170319_130018_zpswkjk20p4.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170319_130018_zpswkjk20p4.jpg.html)

I test drove it and it might just be because I messed with the tie rod end, but the driver side tire hits the sway bar. These are stock size tires as well. I replaced the bushings in the LCA while I had the sway bar out.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170319_143439_zpsog5bikgt.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170319_143439_zpsog5bikgt.jpg.html)

Didn't take an after picture, but I replaced the tie rod end boots. I went crazy looking for the little washer on top. The right is stock and the left is the closest I could find at home depot after searching everywhere. Mike at DMCMW eventually called me back and said the reason they are not listed on the store is because they are not necessary. I'm posting this since I couldn't find this info.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170316_154439_zps1toyjkcn.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170316_154439_zps1toyjkcn.jpg.html)

mr_maxime
05-13-2017, 09:02 PM
Now that I have a garage, I'm back to work.

Decided to do a "quick" rattlecan paintjob on the rear bumper. I ran out of primer and realized ill also need more paint, so i've got to hike to advance auto tomorrow.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170513_175302_zps5powwgda.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170513_175302_zps5powwgda.jpg.html)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170513_181348_zpsbrv0uu8p.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170513_181348_zpsbrv0uu8p.jpg.html)

mr_maxime
05-18-2017, 07:27 PM
Harbor freight had a 7" polisher on sale and I couldnt pass it up. I used the heaviest cut compound meguiars has and a rough cut pad but it still wasnt enough. Ill probably have to get a sanding pad first. Also, holy crap does a polisher make a damn mess!

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/mr_maxime/Delorean/20170518_181325_zpsi9xh45er.jpg (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/mr_maxime/media/Delorean/20170518_181325_zpsi9xh45er.jpg.html)