Coolant bleeding problem

[howlingwind13]

First off I have searched the forum and read all of the coolant bleeding procedures.

Here's what I am looking at...Car overheats really quick, couple of minutes. The fans were not coming on...check the relay, its good. I know the otterstat could be an issue, but, i pulled the wires and jumped the fans so they are on constantly and it is still getting hot.

I pull the radiator hose and let the coolant come out..
Then I move the waterpump...pulled the hose off the brass fitting and nothing is coming out..
The big hose on the passenger side gets warm, the hose on the drivers side is feels cool. Obviously its not cycling...
Kinda at a loss right now, I'm not very mechanically inclined so I'm stumped
Any ideas

mike

[sdg3205]

First off I have searched the forum and read all of the coolant bleeding procedures.

Here's what I am looking at...Car overheats really quick, couple of minutes. The fans were not coming on...check the relay, its good. I know the otterstat could be an issue, but, i pulled the wires and jumped the fans so they are on constantly and it is still getting hot.

I pull the radiator hose and let the coolant come out..
Then I move the waterpump...pulled the hose off the brass fitting and nothing is coming out..
The big hose on the passenger side gets warm, the hose on the drivers side is feels cool. Obviously its not cycling...
Kinda at a loss right now, I'm not very mechanically inclined so I'm stumped
Any ideas

mike

Hey Mike,

Do you have a pressure tester? Ideally you pump the system to 15lbs, then bleed from the small hose at the top of the rad, then the barb off the water pump. You could have a bubble in the heater core too. It could take many cycles of bleeding to get it out. Put back in what you take out every time, then repeat.

Start by ensuring you've got at least 1/3 to 1/2 a tank of coolant in the overflow, then start bleeding, and bleeding and bleeding.

We saw a car at a tech session last week that was so low on coolant, it could not be bleed.

[howlingwind13]

Thanks,
With engine running I pulled the small hose on the barb on the water pump...nothing came out. I shut it down, and using a small funnel slowly poured coolant into the hose, after about 4 solo cups full it gurgled and coolant backed up in the hose and started coming out the barb...reconnected it and the otterstat...fired her up and everything is now working.
Gonna take it for a ride when the rain stops but it ran for about 17-20 minutes and the fans are coming on and its actually taking longer to reach 220 then it ever has, but I'm gonna keep and eye on it.

Thanks again
mike





Hey Mike,

Do you have a pressure tester? Ideally you pump the system to 15lbs, then bleed from the small hose at the top of the rad, then the barb off the water pump. You could have a bubble in the heater core too. It could take many cycles of bleeding to get it out. Put back in what you take out every time, then repeat.

Start by ensuring you've got at least 1/3 to 1/2 a tank of coolant in the overflow, then start bleeding, and bleeding and bleeding.

We saw a car at a tech session last week that was so low on coolant, it could not be bleed.

[DMCMW Dave]

It's very common for the bleed hose that goes to the header bottle to plug in the nipple right on the bottle AND at the aluminum tee where it joins the heater hose. If this happens it is hard to get all the air out of the system. A quick check for this is to remove the cap from the bottle and start the engine. Water should be gushing out of that bleeder into the opening of the bottle. On a metal bottle you may need to stick your finger in there to feel the water moving, so do this on a cold engine.

If no water is flowing, you either have a plugged fitting, very low coolant, or no water pump.