VIN 2203 "barn find"

[RamblinDMC]

Hi everyone!
My name's Jayce, and I'm from Atlanta, GA. Just wanted to share some photos of my new project. This is VIN 2203 and she's been sitting in a garage near Atlanta, GA since 1996 or so. It has 23K miles on it and nearly everything looks original except the back tires, which were completely the wrong size. The rear and front fascias have also been painted, but I'm planning on replacing the front because it has warped badly. I suppose I'll use this thread to keep track of the restoration. Looking forward to getting her back on the road!

Thanks!


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[Farrar]

Congratulations, and welcome to the insanity! :)

[Domi]

Congratulation on your purchase Jayce, looks like a great project car!
Please keep us inform ;)

[louielouie2000]

Those front tires look a size or two too big as well.

[Farrar]

Those front tires look a size or two too big as well.

I've seen a few old photos where it looks like the owners decided to up the front tire size rather than lower the suspension to get rid of that big wheel arch gap. Maybe this was one of those cars, at that time.

[DavidProehl]

I'm planning on replacing the front because it has warped badly.

Maybe I'm not seeing it in the pictures, but your front fascia looks fine to me apart from some eyebrows, and those can be easily fixed (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?776-How-to-Repair-Eyebrows-with-Fascia-Attached).

Congrats on the purchase!

[papanoel]

Maybe I'm not seeing it in the pictures, but your front fascia looks fine to me apart from some eyebrows, and those can be easily fixed (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?776-How-to-Repair-Eyebrows-with-Fascia-Attached).

Congrats on the purchase!

I agree the eye browing doesn't look terrible but it could be the angle. Definitely looks fixable though.

[Timebender]

Maybe the PO swapped the front and back tires...

[Brian_SS_TT]

Congrats Jayce!

Let the fun begin!

This forum has most everything you need as far as how to and the vendors are all very helpful.

Good luck!

[bytes311]

Congrats! And hey, we're only 22 VIN numbers away!

[Josh]

Maybe the PO swapped the front and back tires...

Kinda difficult to fit a 14 in tire on a 15in rim and visa versa...

[RamblinDMC]

So I have a few quick questions that maybe some of you guys might be able to help me with.
I've grown up working on cars vastly different than a DeLorean, this is a new venture for me haha.
My previous restoration was a 1953 Ford Coupe with a flathead V8, so things that are DeLorean specific will take some time to figure out.

My first batch of questions: :frantic:
Firstly, the binnacle is cracked on my car, is it possible to recover it in vinyl?
I read the pdf on fixing the warping on the bumper, that's not too much of an issue anymore, however they it will need to be repainted. Does anyone have a paint code for the bumpers?
Since the car has been sitting since '96 the gas tank is probably full of nasty old gas. What's the best way to clean it out?
What are the most cost effective ways of getting the most horsepower from the stock motor?
I've seen the Stage I exhaust, various turbo kits, Stage II upgrades, ect., but I don't know the best route to go. I really like the idea of adding turbos though.
Has anyone had issues when lowering the car with the upgraded suspensions kits? I plan on doing that as well.
My car also needs a lot of interior work, is DMCH the only source for interior pieces?
And lastly, what is the best source for the gas struts for the louvers/front hood/doors? I've seen several sources for them.

It's going to be a few months before I can start to seriously work on the car. I'm leaving in a few days for Detroit to work for GM. So for now, I'm trying to figure out my budget for the repair work.
Thanks! :smile:
Jayce

[mr_maxime]

While I don't know many answers to what you asked I can offer some info I learned with mine. You'll most likely need the relay update kit. I'd also check all of the fuses. I know some people have had theirs melt. Mine were almost all incorrect. I'm also assuming you'll need tires and dmcmw told me they go with 225 instead of 235 in the rear. Thatll open you up to some matching tires.

[Dangermouse]

So I have a few quick questions that maybe some of you guys might be able to help me with.
I've grown up working on cars vastly different than a DeLorean, this is a new venture for me haha.
My previous restoration was a 1953 Ford Coupe with a flathead V8, so things that are DeLorean specific will take some time to figure out.

My first batch of questions: :frantic:
Firstly, the binnacle is cracked on my car, is it possible to recover it in vinyl?
I read the pdf on fixing the warping on the bumper, that's not too much of an issue anymore, however they it will need to be repainted. Does anyone have a paint code for the bumpers?
Since the car has been sitting since '96 the gas tank is probably full of nasty old gas. What's the best way to clean it out?
What are the most cost effective ways of getting the most horsepower from the stock motor?
I've seen the Stage I exhaust, various turbo kits, Stage II upgrades, ect., but I don't know the best route to go. I really like the idea of adding turbos though.
Has anyone had issues when lowering the car with the upgraded suspensions kits? I plan on doing that as well.
My car also needs a lot of interior work, is DMCH the only source for interior pieces?
And lastly, what is the best source for the gas struts for the louvers/front hood/doors? I've seen several sources for them.

It's going to be a few months before I can start to seriously work on the car. I'm leaving in a few days for Detroit to work for GM. So for now, I'm trying to figure out my budget for the repair work.
Thanks! :smile:
Jayce

Congrats again Jayce

For your questions, Search is your friend as there are multiple threads on most if not all of them

Yes, the binnacle is repairable with filler & vinyl, finished product obviously dependant on skill
Paint codes : http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?349-Paint-Codes
Gas tank - empty tank with cheap pump, clean out thoroughly with acetone (need small arms or some sort of improvides tool.
Engine HP - everyones opinion of cost vs benefit is different. General advice is to get it running as stock and see if you really need it. 130HP isn't too bad as it is a light car, and it will depend on how you want to use the car. There are several threads in the "custom" section about various turbo/DPI/EFI upgrades. Does your engine even turn over (manually, I mean?)
No real issues with lowering, but of course that is dependent on how low, and what size tires you put on it.
DMCx are the best source for the majority of interior parts. Selected non-OEM parts, like shift plates, can be got at other places. DPI keep a stock of SS trim items too.
Struts for the hood/louver can be got anywhere (DMCx/DPI/SpecialT) without any issue. Door strut performance can be an issue based on climate. (Personally I have a set from SpecialT and they have worked well, but others have had differing experiences)


Good luck

engine and interior pics would be appreciated too, btw

[RamblinDMC]

Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it! It's going to be around three months before I come back from Michigan, so for now I'm going to start researching and purchasing some parts.
I'll get some engine and interior pics ASAP.


Thanks again!

[RamblinDMC]

Just placed an order for some new hood/louver/door struts.

I'm also considering powder coating the wheels in the early production dark gray. I like how it matches the facias.

[Jimmyvonviggle]

Just placed an order for some new hood/louver/door struts.

I'm also considering powder coating the wheels in the early production dark gray. I like how it matches the facias.

Funny I never made that connection before, I wonder if that was actually the intention?

[RamblinDMC]

The color is fairly close, it might even be the same color.
You guys think it's better to repaint them to the correct silver or go with the darker color? My car does have all of the other early production features: (grooved hood, gas flap, console clock, ect.)

[Stainless]

The color is fairly close, it might even be the same color.
You guys think it's better to repaint them to the correct silver or go with the darker color? My car does have all of the other early production features: (grooved hood, gas flap, console clock, ect.)

Unless you want to keep it like it came from the factory, the color of the wheels is a personal preference. If you like the darker wheels, I say go for it. What's better is each man's opinion. For example, I personally prefer the lighter wheels, but that is also the original color as my VIN is 2087, not too far from yours.

[Alan]

The color is fairly close, it might even be the same color.
You guys think it's better to repaint them to the correct silver or go with the darker color? My car does have all of the other early production features: (grooved hood, gas flap, console clock, ect.)
I'm partial to the dark gray, too. However, I do prefer to keep things that were optional on the car VIN correct. I wouldn't put a different hood or different colored wheels on MY car. I would do aftermarket improvements, though; sort of a purist, I guess. That's me and my car, though. If I were you I'd do whatever you want to with your car... again, I'm partial to the dark gray wheels. ;)

[DMC-81]

Hi there,

I have VIN correct dark wheels. If it helps to determine the closeness, here is a picture of the wheel and the front fascia next together.....

I believe lighter colored wheels were used starting with VIN 1884 and up.

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[mr_maxime]

I don't know if you've looked but DMC has several options available and will do a lot of custom colors. Still torn between glossy black with machine cut or chrome for my car.

When will you be in Atlanta with your car? I'm hoping to have mine back down June 12th.

[Dangermouse]

Clearly the answer is to do one side dark and the other light.

Then one side will always suit your mood ;)

You can't rotate the wheels properly anyway.

[RamblinDMC]

Clearly the answer is to do one side dark and the other light.

Then one side will always suit your mood ;)

You can't rotate the wheels properly anyway.
haha not a bad idea lol.



I don't know if you've looked but DMC has several options available and will do a lot of custom colors. Still torn between glossy black with machine cut or chrome for my car.

When will you be in Atlanta with your car? I'm hoping to have mine back down June 12th.
I will likely have my car at the GT Ramblin' Wreck parade, as far as keeping it in the ATL area, probably won't. I'm too paranoid about my nicer cars.


Hi there,

I have VIN correct dark wheels. If it helps to determine the closeness, here is a picture of the wheel and the front fascia next together.....

I believe lighter colored wheels were used starting with VIN 1884 and up.

34770

Looks pretty close. I'm kinda leaning towards the darker ones now. However the lighter colored wheels are more well known...

[mr_maxime]

I will likely have my car at the GT Ramblin' Wreck parade, as far as keeping it in the ATL area, probably won't. I'm too paranoid about my nicer cars.

When is that parade? Im also paranoid about mine and having to find a place to live in the no man's land between atlanta and birmingham is being a pain.

[RamblinDMC]

When is that parade? Im also paranoid about mine and having to find a place to live in the no man's land between atlanta and birmingham is being a pain.


The parade will be during homecoming which is October 22-24. The parade itself will probably be on Saturday.

Here's some more photos 2203.


Thanks!
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[durech]

Congratulations on your acquisition and welcome to the "fun". Mine came off the line 19 after yours (2222). She is also a black interior automatic.

[hmcelraft]

1954 Ford in the last pic? Looks like some classic experience around there.

[RamblinDMC]

Wow that's neat! I found out VIN 2204 is in France.
That's my 1953 Ford Coupe. Fun car to drive. A DeLorean is a radically different kind of "classic" haha.

[RamblinDMC]

Last week a friend and I started tearing into 2203. First thing we did was find a replacement for a missing banjo bolt for the Jetronic system. We were able to get one at the local Toyota dealership. After removing the wheels, I decided my car is going to need all new brakes, tie rod ends and probably shocks and springs. I'll probably replace the shocks/springs with the Eibach set. I want my car to sit lower. One of the major things that was concerning me was what was lurking in the gas tank. 2203 has been sitting since 1996 and the old gas had turned to varnish and shellac. Took a few hours but my friend and I were able to siphon out all of the old gas and clean out the gunk inside with acetone. I don't know if the old fuel pump is still good, not going to risk it though. My next step is to redo the fuel system. Are the pumps with the built in sending unit recommended? Does the accumulator usually need replacing? I do know I'll need to replace the filter though.


Thanks!
Jayce

[RamblinDMC]

Another sidenote. After doing some research on early production characteristics, I came across the textured/non textured pontoons. My car has the textured pontoons. When was the cutoff for that?
Also came across this: http://support.delorean.com/kb/a49/antennas.aspx describing the December 1981 power antenna vehicles. My car is from July of '81 and it has the power antenna. I highly doubt the previous owner made the modification. They did not seem to care for the car. It also has rather low miles at 25k.

[BadCompany]

what fuel pump did you decide to go with ? Im thinking of changing mine........
Currently im replacing the brake system...the old rubber lines etc
My car was built in August '81
Keep us up to date on your restore.......

[Lwanmtr]

Congrats on the great find ( inever luck out on that sorta thing...hehe).

[RamblinDMC]

I ended up going with the fuel pump from John Hervey. We'll see how well it does. I'm home for the weekend from school. I'll probably install it today.

Thanks!
Jayce

[RamblinDMC]

Over Labor Day weekend I spend three days working on 2203. After replacing the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition coil, and sheared banjo bolt along with cleaning of the fuel injectors, 2203 now starts and runs! I am however rhaving some hot start issues and I don't believe the cooling fans are working properly. Next steps are to replace the otterstat and fan relay. I also ordered a new accumulator to try to help with the hot start problems. Once all of that is sorted out, I'll attack the braking system. My car should be ready for her first drive in 20 years shortly! Then after that, the interior, fascias, and wheels will be redone.

Making great progress!

[DMC-81]

Hi Jayce,

Great progress! It's rewarding to have a running engine. Replacing the otterstat is a good idea. In the meantime you can clean the contacts on the connectors (and the otterstat). Then you can jump the connectors (as shown) to verify if your fans come on as a test in your troubleshooting. Sometimes it's just corrosion at that spot.

36833

Cheers,
Dana

[RamblinDMC]

So I spend another weekend back home from school to work on my car. Here's the list of things I've repaired/replaced.
Fuel pump
Accumulator (fixed hot start problems)
Fuel filter
Various wiring problems
Cleaned out the fuel tank and hard lines
Ignition coil
Spark plugs
Fuel sending unit
Battery
Primary pressure regulator o-rings
Cleaned the injectors (not sure if they're sticking again)
Otterstat - cooling fans now are working
All faulty relays and fuses
All fluids changed
New gas lift struts

2203 now starts and runs reliably on nearly every crank. It runs rather smoothly. However it won't idle. The only way to keep the engine running is to keep the RPMs above 1250 or so. Anything lower than that, it sputters and dies. The odd thing is, when I first got it running, it would idle, although it was idle hunting. Now it won't idle at all. What should I check? I read somewhere that unplugging the O2 sensor could help. That didn't seem to do much.

Thanks!
Jayce

[Texas Twister]

One thing that made a big difference in rear tire wear after lowering my suspension was installing the adjustable lower links that allow you to change the camber to spec after you lower it. They were posted on the Delorean club site in St Louis. On the front end, I very much recommend the full sway bar bushing kit from Toby at Delorean Parts NW. This not only replaces the sway bar mounts, but the bushings in the lower control arms. The stock ones always crack. I also ground off the rivets on the upper control arm to remove the front ball joint and replaced them with grade 8 nuts and bolts. I ovaled the wholes a bit so the camber up front can be adjusted too. Spittybug, here in Houston makes some brackets to stiffen the front lower control arms that work well. Be sure to check your trailing arm bolts and bushings. Usually one is bent and the bushings are cracked. Hervey sells some hardened ones and DMC Midwest has some Inconel ones too.

Good luck with your fuel issues. I went with a Megasquirt unit and got rid of the K Jet system.

[Texas Twister]

One of the other things about this car is the electrical issues it has. Many are due to bad grounds. I made a modified ground cable that continued from the frame ground at the rear right pivot bolt to one of the starter bolts. Make sure all grounds to the frame are clean and slap some nonox or something similar on them to prevent oxidation. If you are still running the stock fuse box, make sure you use some nonox on the fuse blades and in the sockets. These tend to oxidize and cause resistance and therefore heat causing parts of the fuse box to melt. DMCH sells an upgrade kit that looks original and Special T has one that works, but has different dimensions for less. Both have stronger contacts than the stock ones do. I hope you got rid of the fan fail module if it was still there. It will also melt.



Best of luck.

[RamblinDMC]

Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it.

I spoke with John Hervey on the phone earlier today. He thinks my fuel distributor and WUR are bad. How can I check their function. Can they cause my car to not want to idle?

Thanks,
Jayce

[Texas Twister]

Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it.

I spoke with John Hervey on the phone earlier today. He thinks my fuel distributor and WUR are bad. How can I check their function. Can they cause my car to not want to idle?

Thanks,
Jayce

Yes they can. John can test them and rebuild the fuel distributor if necessary. I have my old ones from when I converted to Megasquirt, but they have not been used in three years.

[Pilot]

Jayce, nice job so far. I'm in the same boat as you but mine has been in a barn since 1989 or 1990. I was thinking of just sending my entire set up to John and have him rebuild and recondition the whole k jet system.

[louielouie2000]

Here's some more photos 2203.

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I can't tell if it's just the picture, but it looks like your car has one of the very early-style "fuzzy" (flocked) coin trays. If that is in fact what it is, it makes you wonder if a previous owner added that, or if somehow the car came from the factory with it. DMCL was known to 'Frankenstein' these cars- for instance, sometimes good parts were cannibalized from cars which were set aside for rework due to production flaws, etc.

[RamblinDMC]

Interesting you should point that out. My car has an odd mix of some early and later production characteristics. It has textured pontoons which I believe to only be on the first 500-700 ish cars? Is that correct? It also has the rear mounted power antenna, but no evidence of a front fender mounted antenna and I believe the non-antenna windshield is original as well. Of course it does have the flapped/grooved hood which is correct for its VIN range. There were a few other oddities that I cant remember at the moment. I highly doubt the original owner went to the trouble to change around those aspects of the car. They didn't seem to care about the car very much. I need to look at the frame number and the VIN written on the doors. I do know however it visited PJ Grady sometime in the early 90s. It has a sticker in the driver's side door jamb.

This weekend one of my dad's professional mechanic friends is going to help us get it idling correctly and have a look at the brakes. If all goes as planned, my car may be back on the road very soon. How cool would it be for it's first time back on the road to be October 21st?

[RamblinDMC]

Some of you may have seen my other topic on the fuel distributor issues, after replacing the WUR and taking apart the fuel distributor, 2203 now starts and runs on every crank. Regardless if its hot or cold. Recently I had the brake calipers rebuilt and the rotors turned with the help of my dad and one of his mechanic friends. I also had to acquire a new driver's side hub carrier because the old one broke when trying to remove the stuck lower link bolt. Hopefully over Thanksgiving break we'll be able to reinstall the braking equipment and the new hub carrier. Also planning on flushing the cooling system and replacing the thermostat, otterstat, and engine coolant hoses. Maybe we'll get around to finally changing the oil and ATF as well.

[RamblinDMC]

2203 is back! Here's the video of her first drive in 20 years!
https://www.facebook.com/jayce.delker/videos/10206871682365543/?l=5889244049583458837

[refugeefromcalif]

Congrats!
So, How was the test drive and what were your impressions of it?

George

[RamblinDMC]

Test drive went well. My brakes got soft after a while and soon found out that the master cylinder reservoir cap isn't sealing properly. It sucks in air. My auto trans shifts well, so that's one less thing to repair. The car shakes and rattles awfully. Gotta look into that. My steering column bushing is completely shot, shakes like crazy.

[Lwanmtr]

sounds like you need suspension reworked...mine needs that too..specially if its still got the factory original shocks n bushings n stuff...lol

[louielouie2000]

sounds like you need suspension reworked...mine needs that too..specially if its still got the factory original shocks n bushings n stuff...lol

If the car still has the same tires it spent 20 years sitting on, that would mean the rubber is old and very hard, and the tires would also have horrific flat spots. Hard rubber + flat spots = bad shaking.

[Lwanmtr]

luckily the guy i bought the car from put good tires on it

[DMC-81]

2203 is back! Here's the video of her first drive in 20 years!
https://www.facebook.com/jayce.delker/videos/10206871682365543/?l=5889244049583458837

Congrats! :driving1: That's quite a feeling isn't it?

[Rich_NYS]

Completely awesome...2016 is going to be a great year for you!

[sdg3205]

Any luck getting more air out of the brakes?

[Dangermouse]

Nice work Jayce. Looking forward to seeing it on the road.

[RamblinDMC]

My dad and I figured out that the seal on the master cylinder cap had shrunken and wasn't sealing well. It was causing air to get sucked into the resivoir. My car also was missing the vacuum line that plugs in under the intake manifold. I'm assuming that's the main vacuum feed to the vacuum canister. It seems like the braking is not consistsnt now that the brake booster is getting vacuum.

I'll be getting new tires after I get my wheels back from powder coating.

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk

[sdg3205]

Do you mean one of the two seals on the master cylinder that the nipples on the bottom of the reservoir fit into? I have seen one new cylinder with a bad pressed seal. The cap on the master cylinder doesn't affect brake performance. You don't need an air tight seal there, just a good enough seal to prevent debris in and fluid out

[Ron]

Hey Jayce,


My dad and I figured out that the seal on the master cylinder cap had shrunken and wasn't sealing well. It was causing air to get sucked into the reservoir.
FWIW, that shouldn't affect the brakes as long as it don't run out of fluid...


My car also was missing the vacuum line that plugs in under the intake manifold. I'm assuming that's the main vacuum feed to the vacuum canister. It seems like the braking is not consistsnt now that the brake booster is getting vacuum.

The port under the manifold goes to the Purge Control Valve. The "main vacuum" (Purge Line) comes from the Auxiliary Air Pipe (routing should be on the engine cover sticker).

[RamblinDMC]

Thanks for the info. My car is missing its vacuum hose routing sticker. Maybe it's just me, but the brakes to feel better after repairing those two things.

Yes, the cap seal, fluid was leaking out of it before.

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk

[Ron]

Just make sure the two aren't swapped....

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1156-Vacuum-Hose-Diagram

[RamblinDMC]

Just make sure the two aren't swapped....

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1156-Vacuum-Hose-Diagram


Which two? I also have a mystery vacuum hose coming from the rear of the engine. It's not the either of the ones that connects to the vacuum advance solenoid.

Also, what could cause one door to open higher than the other? The passenger door opens slightly lower than the driver's side door when fully opened. I'm fairly sure that the lift struts are bottoming out. It kinda seems like the door could open further if the lift strut on that side was slightly longer. I did measure the extended lengths of the struts and they're the same. I'll post some more pictures of the car. Not sure if I mentioned this before, but I had the seats and headliner redone locally. They look great!

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Which two? I also have a mystery vacuum hose coming from the rear of the engine. It's not the either of the ones that connects to the vacuum advance solenoid.

Also, what could cause one door to open higher than the other? The passenger door opens slightly lower than the driver's side door when fully opened. I'm fairly sure that the lift struts are bottoming out. It kinda seems like the door could open further if the lift strut on that side was slightly longer. I did measure the extended lengths of the struts and they're the same. I'll post some more pictures of the car. Not sure if I mentioned this before, but I had the seats and headliner redone locally. They look great!
This is common on the early VIN cars. It can be fixed but requires relocating the lwr mtg post...not a fun job!
Rob

[Lwanmtr]

I consider little things like to be part of the 'character' of the cars....like the eyebrows...I thought about straightening my front facia..but then I think she would look boring with a factory straight look...hehe.

[Dangermouse]

Of course you could have slightly shorter struts for some reason. Maybe the PO sourced them non-DMC ?

[RamblinDMC]

I can't tell if one is too high or the other is too low. I'll post some pictures.

I replaced the original struts. They're Stabilus struts from Hervey. They both measure the same when fully extended.

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk

[RamblinDMC]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/31/a1e4e37f7208b711af81c61563f56703.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/31/b40891d25cca7862cd977737871792d2.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/31/9f465acf7def2aa36f23cc42b5fe4eca.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/31/7eb97be500870c2afb130bc81ca52039.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/31/d309a2fa5fa239cba2d98c147bfef7de.jpg

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk

[Lwanmtr]

Looks great. Just looking..the doors look fine to me

[Ron]

Which two?
The ported vacuum "from under the manifold" v/s the main vacuum from the Auxiliary Air Pipe



I also have a mystery vacuum hose coming from the rear of the engine. It's not the either of the ones that connects to the vacuum advance solenoid. Where does the other end connect??

[RamblinDMC]

It looks like it does come from the back of the manifold. It's really hard to see. Ill have a closer look next time I'm at the garage.

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[Lwanmtr]

Prolly doesnt help you much...but I had vaccum lines and whatnot going all the wrong places (PO was on crack)..after a month or so of trying to get mine going I had her hauled up to DMCNW and they were able to set that all right...there's alotta weird things...lol

[RamblinDMC]

Prolly doesnt help you much...but I had vaccum lines and whatnot going all the wrong places (PO was on crack)..after a month or so of trying to get mine going I had her hauled up to DMCNW and they were able to set that all right...there's alotta weird things...lol
I live 12+ hours from any DMC location. There really needs to be one in the Georgia/South Carolina/Tennessee area.

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk

[Lwanmtr]

That sucks...I think if I was that far away, I might not have gotten mine...then again, i prolly would have..lol

[RamblinDMC]

Another update on 2203!

Made a lot of progress since the last post. I've had the wheels powder coated, new tires fitted, new lugs, nos DMC center caps, Hervey's lowering kit installed, new steering rack, and ball joints. Even replaced the side view mirror glass. Just a few days ago, I replaced some faulty capacitors and transistors in the shift governor, shifts so much better now. Before, it would shift to 2nd late and never get to 3rd.
I even took it to its first car show this past Saturday. It runs and drives great now! The only thing left to sort out as far as the drivetrain is some stumbling off the line. It misses out sometimes as well. I have a new distributor cap, rotor, and Magnecor wires to install. When I replace those, I'm going to clean the intake manifold and the VOD. I may even try to clean up the rest of the engine, it's fairly dirty.
Photos to come soon!

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[81dmc]

Another update on 2203!

Made a lot of progress since the last post. I've had the wheels powder coated, new tires fitted, new lugs, nos DMC center caps, Hervey's lowering kit installed, new steering rack, and ball joints. Even replaced the side view mirror glass. Just a few days ago, I replaced some faulty capacitors and transistors in the shift governor, shifts so much better now. Before, it would shift to 2nd late and never get to 3rd.
I even took it to its first car show this past Saturday. It runs and drives great now! The only thing left to sort out as far as the drivetrain is some stumbling off the line. It misses out sometimes as well. I have a new distributor cap, rotor, and Magnecor wires to install. When I replace those, I'm going to clean the intake manifold and the VOD. I may even try to clean up the rest of the engine, it's fairly dirty.
Photos to come soon!

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Do you have any pictures?

[RamblinDMC]

Here's a group of pictures from this weekend.
The first photo is both my car and my dad's 62 Corvette Fuelie before we left for a big car show in my hometown, the second is really the only photo I have of my car at the show, so many people were wanting to talk to me about the DeLorean. The next few pictures are of my car in front of some storefronts and signs that have been changed to resemble the town in the 1960s. They're filming a movie called Hidden Figures here locally. And the last few show the rebuilding of the shift governor. You can see how the old capacitors have blown open. I replaced them along with the two big transistors and a few large resistors. I opted to cut the wire going to the governor and solder/heat shrink it back together. Each of the eight wires are individually soldered and heat shrinked, and then the whole bundle was heat shrinked again. Works just fine.

Right now I'm working on converting an original Craig radio to Bluetooth. Photos and demo of that soon!

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[iflights]

Here's a group of pictures from this weekend.
The first photo is both my car and my dad's 62 Corvette Fuelie before we left for a big car show in my hometown, the second is really the only photo I have of my car at the show, so many people were wanting to talk to me about the DeLorean. The next few pictures are of my car in front of some storefronts and signs that have been changed to resemble the town in the 1960s. They're filming a movie called Hidden Figures here locally. And the last few show the rebuilding of the shift governor. You can see how the old capacitors have blown open. I replaced them along with the two big transistors and a few large resistors. I opted to cut the wire going to the governor and solder/heat shrink it back together. Each of the eight wires are individually soldered and heat shrinked, and then the whole bundle was heat shrinked again. Works just fine.

Right now I'm working on converting an original Craig radio to Bluetooth. Photos and demo of that soon!

40953409544095740958409594096040961409624096440963 409564095540965

Love the one with the old coca cola and Kennedy. Where is that in Atlanta?

[RamblinDMC]

This is is Monroe, GA.

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[RamblinDMC]

In*

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[RamblinDMC]

Oops, stupid Tapatalk. Double post.