How about daytime running lights?

[Ryan S.]

For safety reason, I am thinking about adding DRL to mine without spending too much money.

One option is to add LED stripes around headlights or grill area. But I am afraid that it might make the car look too cheap or tacky.

Second option is to make the front amber indicator lights to stay on when car is on and still function as indicator lights. I would like to convert those lights to LEDs if I can. Not sure how to wire for this. I already have converted most of my lights to LEDs except indicator lights.

Third option is to keep high beam headlights to stay on. Those will have to go off when headlights switch is on. Again, could be another complicated wiring set up.

Forth option and might be the easiest one is to keep the low beams to stay on all the time.

I would appreciate if you can share your ideas and suggestions.
Thanks

[john 05141]

I have been thinking about that too.
The amber lights seems to be a good option.They can switch of when blinking.

Not easy to make and yet I think it adds to safety, give a modern look, and I think many owners would be interested if it is fairly prised and one does not have to be an electric genius to install.

Jan

[David T]

Before adding loads that will run continuously consider the electrical system as a whole. At the very least add relays to route the current around the headlight switch. Adding relays also has the benefit of being able to control the headlights by other means besides the headlight switch so if the motor isn't running the headlights will shut off for instance.

[jangell]

I'd been thinking about LED strips around the headlights too, but I'm worried they'll look dated in a few years when everone has moved on to laser headlights or something.

I also noticed that modern cars turn off the running light on the side that the turn signal is blinking on. It makes it feel like the running light is broken to me, but I think it is done to make it more clear that the blinker is on.

For my car, I just leave the headlights on all the time. I modified the switch wiring so that they turn off with the ignition so is not forget them on.

-- Joe

[Shep]

Have you thought about a set of angel eye housings? I'm going with Octane Lighting H4 housings soon, which have built-in RGB SMD LED's in a rectangle around the lens. Then it's just a matter of running a wire to an ACC circuit, grounding it somewhere, and you're all set. Cost about $100 plus shipping on eBay, or you can get an even cheaper pair that only has one color.

[Notifier]

I installed a Hamsar 45070 DRL module on my DeLorean for daytime running lights. Works pretty well too! It runs the low beams only at 80% power during daylight and a sensor installed on the dash will turn on all the lights (parking and headlights) when it gets dark enough. I rarely touch the headlight switch. I installed it with a 3 pole double throw relay - mostly for isolation purposes. You could connect the module directly to the headlight and parking light circuit as shown in the instructions, but with the relay if the module ever fails, all I have to do is unplug the relay to get my original lighting setup back. Plus, the way they show in their instructions, they have you connect up the white wire before the dip switch for the headlights and I didn't like that. I also use a dummy switch on the center console to turn off the DRL system if I ever needed to. Here is the wiring schematic for the relay:

34588

For the DRL module:
RED - constant 12V
WHITE - feed to relay for low beam 80% illumination
YELLOW - feed to relay for coil and for parking lights (via wings-a-light relay)
GREEN - switched 12V
BLACK - ground (not shown)
BLUE - delay switch (not shown)

A separate power wire feeds to the relay to turn the headlights on at 100%

Note about the model number - the model number on the DRL module is 45070, the model number in the instruction sheet is 70991. Not sure why there are two different model numbers but I would assume they are identical in function. A quick search shows the 45070 (or 70991) is no longer available. Not sure what the replacement model could be.

[DMCVegas]

I gotta honestly ask: Why does anyone want DRLs? They don't actually offer any sort of safety benefit. Even the NHTSA with their own studies have concluded that they offer absolutely no benefits whatsoever. (https://www.federalregister.gov/articles/2009/06/29/E9-15314/federal-motor-vehicle-safety-standard-no-108-lamp-reflective-devices-and-associated-equipment)

With all of the additional laws for safety features that government regulators are willing to impose at the drop of a hat, it speaks volumes when they actually say "no" to something. In fact, they make things much more dangerous for other drivers. From high-intensity beams that blind other drivers (especially in the desert where heat refracts light of the road surface and dazzles oncoming drivers), to drivers that start their cars at night and since they see their headlights "on", they fail to turn on their clearance lights and reduce visibility to other cars.

I mean, I get why GM and other manufacturers push them as "mandatory" or worse yet "safety" equipment on cars: They're forcing you to buy an additional equipment that they place a mark up onto, thus increasing profit on each car sold. Same with people that offer aftermarket conversion kits.

I mean, it's your car and all. However you choose to customize it should be up to you. But please, don't be lulled into a false sense of security that you're safer by having these things installed. If you want a proven safety feature that is proven to prevent an accident install a CHMSL, or 3rd brake light to keep you safe.

[DMCMW Dave]

Funny - I disconnect the DRLs on my modern cars if at all possible. I just don't like the look. The only one that I have not been able to do that on is my Odyssey, it's a standalone fuse but then an even more annoying dash light comes on.

[Shep]

I gotta honestly ask: Why does anyone want DRLs?Because laws? Here in Ohio, it's state law to have some sort of headlights on when your wipers are used (i.e. when it's raining or snowing). If it's a light rain, and I'm driving in it, I'd much rather use DRL's than actual headlights. Back when I had my 97 Blazer, I used to turn just the parking lights on whenever it was dawn/duck/gloomy/etc. and thus have much dimmer headlights that wouldn't blind drivers. The assumption that someone simply wouldn't noti7ce that their headlight output is dim and they had no taillights at night is farfetched to say the least. i can't imagine anyone being that oblivious without someone telling them along the way that they're idiots, whether it's a cop or their dealership/mechanic that doesn't find anything wrong with them. As far as improved visibility, I'm quite doubtful that DRL's have zero effect, but will agree that in some circumstances (broad daylight, for example), they're a moot point.

But more to the point, my angel eyes were hooked up to a switch, rather than the ACC circuit, so I could turn them off at will. This is a setup I'd recommend so you have complete control over them (car shows, parades, etc.)

[Jimmyvonviggle]

I gotta honestly ask: Why does anyone want DRLs? They don't actually offer any sort of safety benefit. Even the NHTSA with their own studies have concluded that they offer absolutely no benefits whatsoever. (https://www.federalregister.gov/articles/2009/06/29/E9-15314/federal-motor-vehicle-safety-standard-no-108-lamp-reflective-devices-and-associated-equipment)

With all of the additional laws for safety features that government regulators are willing to impose at the drop of a hat, it speaks volumes when they actually say "no" to something. In fact, they make things much more dangerous for other drivers. From high-intensity beams that blind other drivers (especially in the desert where heat refracts light of the road surface and dazzles oncoming drivers), to drivers that start their cars at night and since they see their headlights "on", they fail to turn on their clearance lights and reduce visibility to other cars.

I mean, I get why GM and other manufacturers push them as "mandatory" or worse yet "safety" equipment on cars: They're forcing you to buy an additional equipment that they place a mark up onto, thus increasing profit on each car sold. Same with people that offer aftermarket conversion kits.

I mean, it's your car and all. However you choose to customize it should be up to you. But please, don't be lulled into a false sense of security that you're safer by having these things installed. If you want a proven safety feature that is proven to prevent an accident install a CHMSL, or 3rd brake light to keep you safe.

I'll have to disagree with thes studies, because I find they do help cars stand out and especially in the rain.

[refugeefromcalif]

IIRC, Motorcycles have had to have headlights on since the late 1970's.
Alabama also has the law that if your windshield wipers are on, you must also have headlights on.

George

[Bitsyncmaster]

My 2005 Malibu uses the front signal (amber) for DRL. Both the plastic lens on those melted a hole in the top and plastic dripped onto the bulbs. Guess they did not plan people to get caught in traffic jams on 100 degree summer days.

I was going to put LEDs in those DRLs but the blinker is part of the body computer so the only way to do LEDs is to load each bulb with a resistor.

Note: The load resistor everybody uses is a 6 ohm 50 watt. That draws more than 2 amps on each light circuit.

[Notifier]

I was actually looking into an automatic headlight system at the time and came across the Hamsar product. If I really wanted to, I could just disconnect the one wire and not have the DRLs (which was my original intent). With all the internal distractions drivers create for themselves out there - cell phones, GPS systems, kids fighting in the back seat, etc - if my headlights get someone to notice my vehicle out of the corner of their eye, the system has paid for itself! Problem is, I'll personally never know if that's true.

On a side note, I do believe that such systems should be optional seeing as they are not required. Even if a vehicle is equipped with one from the factory, it should be up to the owner if he/she wants the system disabled, but it should be reversible if the next owner wants to use the system. I put one on my vehicle and that's my choice. If someone doesn't want the system on their vehicle, then don't install it. To each his own!

One thing that's been going on around here is that the state of Maryland is now requiring headlight use on certain heavily traveled and high accident prone highways. The Chesapeake Bay Bridge is one for example. You will get a ticket for failing to comply with the law! At least with the DRLs if you forget to turn your lights on, you'll avoid the fine.

[David T]

I was actually looking into an automatic headlight system at the time and came across the Hamsar product. If I really wanted to, I could just disconnect the one wire and not have the DRLs (which was my original intent). With all the internal distractions drivers create for themselves out there - cell phones, GPS systems, kids fighting in the back seat, etc - if my headlights get someone to notice my vehicle out of the corner of their eye, the system has paid for itself! Problem is, I'll personally never know if that's true.

On a side note, I do believe that such systems should be optional seeing as they are not required. Even if a vehicle is equipped with one from the factory, it should be up to the owner if he/she wants the system disabled, but it should be reversible if the next owner wants to use the system. I put one on my vehicle and that's my choice. If someone doesn't want the system on their vehicle, then don't install it. To each his own!

One thing that's been going on around here is that the state of Maryland is now requiring headlight use on certain heavily traveled and high accident prone highways. The Chesapeake Bay Bridge is one for example. You will get a ticket for failing to comply with the law! At least with the DRLs if you forget to turn your lights on, you'll avoid the fine.

GM's DRL version runs the headlights but NOT the tail lights. I agree it should be a programmable thing so the end user can decide to use it or not like a LOT of the things on cars nowadays like side warning, front warning, turn signal timer, auto door locks, etc. In some States when you drive through a Work Area you MUST turn your head lights on! I say anything that can make your car more visible (Deloreans are invisible under certain lighting conditions!) the better. At least get the 3rd brake light!

[Bitsyncmaster]

I added the third brake light but will never know if it has saved me from a rear end accident. The third brake light was the high brake light to prevent a vehicle coming over a hill and not seeing your standard brake lights. Now it's only a high brake light on vans and pickup trucks. Most others put them in the trunk lid which is only a few inches higher than the standard lights.

[DMCVegas]

Because laws? Here in Ohio, it's state law to have some sort of headlights on when your wipers are used (i.e. when it's raining or snowing).

But that is a reduced visibility type of situation. That isn't speaking to clear days. More importantly, DRLs are NOT regular headlights. So if a cop wanted to, they can in fact give you a ticket if you're driving around in the rain with only DRLs. And with just DRLs, you have no running lamps on the sides or rears on. Yes there are areas in the Mojave desert with LONG stretches of highway where headlights are required during the day. Which in that situation is because of mirages that bend light and you need the lights turned on so that you can see approaching cars. When you try and overtake slower moving vehicles and start doing 90-100mph, you need to see ahead.

http://heimhenge.com/skylights/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/2011-09-26-Q.jpg

On some long straightaways you can have so many little inclines and drops in the road, that cars actually become invisible until it's too late. The light will bend and actually wash out the rest of the road by reflecting either the sky or distant horizon over it.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_8fkJDzTCpJI/TAFmxJXYKII/AAAAAAAAFBI/TfTjO94y6A0/s1600/P1230053.JPG

Now in cases like these, amber turn signals to not stand out enough to keep the car safe, and high beam lights like GM has used in the past do nothing but blind you, or the newer dim ones aren't bright enough. Which just like the rain is a reduced visibility situation where regular headlights are required. Even though it's the daytime, you can still be blinded by high beams. Most importantly too is that once you drive out of these areas, they also have warning signs telling you to turn your lights off.



The assumption that someone simply wouldn't noti7ce that their headlight output is dim and they had no taillights at night is farfetched to say the least. i can't imagine anyone being that oblivious without someone telling them along the way that they're idiots...

Trust me, this happens a whole helluva lot more often than you'd think.

http://sfcitizen.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/7J7C7232-copy.jpg

The problem is twofold. DRLs cast light out in front of the vehicle. It's not as bright as a headlight, but none the less it's visible and fools the driver into thinking that their headlights are on. The second is with many instrument clusters. The gauges still light up in the daytime, as do the LCD display screens for the Information Center and the radio. Once the headlights come on they dim, sure. But without the headlights on they run full brightness. Not something entirely new though. After all, even our cars have this feature with the A/C Panels.



I added the third brake light but will never know if it has saved me from a rear end accident. The third brake light was the high brake light to prevent a vehicle coming over a hill and not seeing your standard brake lights. Now it's only a high brake light on vans and pickup trucks. Most others put them in the trunk lid which is only a few inches higher than the standard lights.

It's not just the hight, but the fact that it's a dedicated light explicitly for signaling deceleration. The effects of crash-avoidance were immediately recognized. And while their efficiency has decreased over the years in part to increased driver distraction and desensitization, it's still a good warning for those who are staring at your car behind you.

http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/Pubs/808696.pdf

[Ryan S.]

Nice. This is actually better with automatic headlight system. My other cars all have the auto headlight system. You are right. Looks like 45070, 4 headlight system is not available. How about 45060, 2 headlight system? Would that work? Also I have a newer DMC headlight switch. Not sure if that would make the installation easier or harder.




I installed a Hamsar 45070 DRL module on my DeLorean for daytime running lights. Works pretty well too! It runs the low beams only at 80% power during daylight and a sensor installed on the dash will turn on all the lights (parking and headlights) when it gets dark enough. I rarely touch the headlight switch. I installed it with a 3 pole double throw relay - mostly for isolation purposes. You could connect the module directly to the headlight and parking light circuit as shown in the instructions, but with the relay if the module ever fails, all I have to do is unplug the relay to get my original lighting setup back. Plus, the way they show in their instructions, they have you connect up the white wire before the dip switch for the headlights and I didn't like that. I also use a dummy switch on the center console to turn off the DRL system if I ever needed to. Here is the wiring schematic for the relay:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34588&stc=1

For the DRL module:
RED - constant 12V
WHITE - feed to relay for low beam 80% illumination
YELLOW - feed to relay for coil and for parking lights (via wings-a-light relay)
GREEN - switched 12V
BLACK - ground (not shown)
BLUE - delay switch (not shown)

A separate power wire feeds to the relay to turn the headlights on at 100%

Note about the model number - the model number on the DRL module is 45070, the model number in the instruction sheet is 70991. Not sure why there are two different model numbers but I would assume they are identical in function. A quick search shows the 45070 (or 70991) is no longer available. Not sure what the replacement model could be.

[driveintim]

If you are planning to use high or low for DRL's I suggest that you upgrade your headlight harness. Here is one I just used on my sons elcamino. After installing it I have ordered one for my D.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=331214602226
It moves the electrical load direct to the battery and only uses a small amount of current on the old headlight circuit to control the relays. It has ceramic sockets to handle the heat of the bulbs.
This also allows you to send a signal to the high or low relay when the motor is running for DRL's.

Actually it's is an upgrade all Delorean owners should consider, even if you don't want DRL's. I know there are headlight switch bypass relays available, but they still leave the current draw on the old wiring harness. This one moves the current draw off the 30+ year old wiring and direct from the battery to the headlights.

[Notifier]

Nice. This is actually better with automatic headlight system. My other cars all have the auto headlight system. You are right. Looks like 45070, 4 headlight system is not available. How about 45060, 2 headlight system? Would that work? Also I have a newer DMC headlight switch. Not sure if that would make the installation easier or harder.

I'm not sure about the 45060, I just tried to look up the one I had and didn't see it on the web site. The one I have, they show you tapping into the headlight circuit with their white wire (the white wire gives 80% during DRL mode and 100% voltage during night mode) BEFORE the dip switch, so essentially you are deciding (by the position of the dip switch) whether you are running the low beams or high beams as DRLs. I don't like that so that's why I tapped into the blue/red wire in the relay compartment for the DRL output and added the isolation relay. The center and right contacts on my schematic turn on the headlights at 100% and the parking lights during night mode and I fed wires to the the existing headlight switch to accomplish that. I don't believe I have the newer DMC switch (although it is not the original) but I did install the wings-a-light relay to take the load off the headlight switch. That's why I reference going to the Wings-a-light on the schamatic (if you don't have that installed, you would have to check the wiring diagram to verify the connection but it would probably be the same wire to tap).

You might want to look into this one - Directed Electronics 545T
Looks like this unit does four things:
1.) Automatic headlights/parking lights via photocell sensor
2.) Automatic headlights/parking lights with windshield wiper activation
3.) Headlight DRL mode (which can be deactivated) but looks like it's 100% on
4.) Security input for use with an alarm system or remote keyless system to turn on headlights and flash parking lights

[Ryan S.]

Excellent. Thanks for that info.

Regarding front indicator lights, I just realized that they are using 1157 type bulb that has dual mode so I don't need to worry about blinking portion of wiring. Are there easier ways to connect the front indicator lights to ACC power? Keep the front indicator on with ignition on.

[Notifier]

Excellent. Thanks for that info.

Regarding front indicator lights, I just realized that they are using 1157 type bulb that has dual mode so I don't need to worry about blinking portion of wiring. Are there easier ways to connect the front indicator lights to ACC power? Keep the front indicator on with ignition on.
Are you talking about running the 5 watt side or 21 watt side of the bulb?

I don't think the 5 watt side would be very noticeable, plus they are separate circuits (the left side and right side of the vehicle) and tied to the side marker lights up front I believe. So you'll have to run dedicated wires to them. The 21 watt side would be better, but I think you'll have to figure out a way to isolate the front bulbs from the blinker circuit.

[Shep]

If you want to have them come on with ACC only, I might try this setup:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34618&d=1432492777

What this does is effectively emulates the blinker mod with the front turn signals. When ACC is on, and blinkers are off, the front is lit. When blinkers are on, the +12V from the green/black connection fights the +12V from the blue/green connection, resulting in the bulb turning off.

Of course, things do get interesting if you have a polarized LED installed (which, for 1157's, is fairly common). When the blinkers are on and the ACC circuit is OFF (such as if you're on the side of the road with your hazards lit), nothing happens. With an incandescent or bipolar LED unit, it'll blink normally, but if the LED is polarized, it'll just be a diode and will prevent current from going the other way (which is the same problem that the side markers face with LED bulbs also -- only works one way).

As far as why I connected the ACC to the green wire and not the red one, this system only utilizes one filament of the two-filament bulb. Why bother limiting yourself to 5W when you can have 12W and be twice as bright give or take a few watts?

Side note: when I hooked up my angel eyes, I ran a wire in a bit of a convoluted manner, but it got the job done in a pinch: from the interior, through/around the "hood release" grommet, under the carpet, through the jack storage door, then I removed a bolt from behind the grille and fed it through one of the rivnuts. Still have that wire in place, but it's not connected to anything on either end now (I've since disconnected the setup). If anyone can recommend an easier or more proper way to get from the interior to behind the headlights, I'm all ears. Actually considering running a similar setup to this, but with angel eyes instead of the OEM equipment.


But that is a reduced visibility type of situation. That isn't speaking to clear days. More importantly, DRLs are NOT regular headlights. So if a cop wanted to, they can in fact give you a ticket if you're driving around in the rain with only DRLs.Actually no, they can't. Ohio law is clearly written to explicitly allow DRL's as allowable lighting in the rain. You don't even need your rear lights on when it rains, only when it's dark enough to be deemed "unsafe" not having them on.


Now in cases like these, amber turn signals to not stand out enough to keep the car safe, and high beam lights like GM has used in the past do nothing but blind you, or the newer dim ones aren't bright enough. Which just like the rain is a reduced visibility situation where regular headlights are required. Even though it's the daytime, you can still be blinded by high beams. Most importantly too is that once you drive out of these areas, they also have warning signs telling you to turn your lights off.This is entirely unrelated to what I said, so...


Trust me, this happens a whole helluva lot more often than you'd think.

[image]

The problem is twofold. DRLs cast light out in front of the vehicle. It's not as bright as a headlight, but none the less it's visible and fools the driver into thinking that their headlights are on. The second is with many instrument clusters. The gauges still light up in the daytime, as do the LCD display screens for the Information Center and the radio. Once the headlights come on they dim, sure. But without the headlights on they run full brightness. Not something entirely new though. After all, even our cars have this feature with the A/C Panels.I'm aware that there are plenty of idiots that drive without headlights at dawn/dusk when they really should, or think that DRL's are enough. I said "at night", i.e. after the sun sets and it's dark outside. I don't call 8 PM in metropolis with plenty of lights on "night".

[Ryan S.]

I think the easiest and cheapest way for me is to try to have the front indicator amber lights to stay on always. Baseon on wiring diagram, I think I need to pull an ACC line from under dash to front bumper. I don't see any option to do this under dash or inside of fuse box area. Cut the red wire and attach ACC line. That should keep the lights on always and won't interfear with flasher function. Perhaps I can even add a switch to disable DRL function and reverse the set up.

Plan to use 1157 type LED bulbs. Most of amber LEDs are too weak so I would have to go with white LEDs. Hope it would look ok in an amber housing. One I saw is from SuperBrightLed and it is the brightest one they have in stock.

[DMCMW Dave]

We now have amber parking light LEDs available. Alone or as part of a complete exterior LED kit.

http://store.delorean.com/p-10679-complete-exterior-led-light-kit-incl-circuit-boards.aspx shows the kit and the individual parts.

[Shep]

Dave, any links to the individual bulb alone? You mentioned you sold it separately, but I don't see any links to where you do. Am curious what kind of bulb you decided on.


Plan to use 1157 type LED bulbs. Most of amber LEDs are too weak so I would have to go with white LEDs. Hope it would look ok in an amber housing. One I saw is from SuperBrightLed and it is the brightest one they have in stock.I think you're referring to "switchback" bulbs. While I agree it's an easier alternative, it's one I wouldn't recommend unless you swap out the lens (or entire housing) for a clear version, which I have yet to come across (I've looked for hours on eBay for a compatible size/shape, but no one makes it as far as I can tell). It looks horrible if you mix white LED's with colored housings, not to mention it severely impairs brightness too.

Actually, this reminds me of another project of mine in which I aim to replace the side marker lenses with clear versions. I'll see if I can track down clear filament for my 3D printer that's scheduled to arrive within the next couple of weeks. If you're interested, I can print you a pair of clear lenses for the fronts once I get it all in and sell it to you at cost. Let me know. I'll be making a pair for myself anyways, so it won't be a problem at all to make you a pair too.

[Ryan S.]

Wow. That would be awesome. Just let me know when you print some.
You know.... Since you are going to 3d print lenses, what do you think about lenses that mount all the way to surface of bumper? I am not too crazy about our recessed indicator lights. Just not very aerodynamic imho.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Since you are going to 3d print lenses, what do you think about lenses that mount all the way to surface of bumper? I am not too crazy about our recessed indicator lights. Just not very aerodynamic imho.

+1
I don't know why they recessed them so much.

You all need to check the heat produced by DRL if you plan to install them. Probably a good test is just power a socket and lens mounted off a black driveway on a 100 deg sunny day.

What I would do is make an array of LEDs to fill the lens and use a PWM circuit to dim them at night. The circuit would also flash the LEDs if that blinker is on. I've found LED efficiency is better using many lower current LEDs rather than one high power LED.

You can get power up to the front if you ground your OEM light circuit to frame ground. The OEM harness has two heavy ground wires running from the fuse box up to the front to ground the lights. That would give those two ground (black) wires to re-purpose for power. I frame grounded the metal plate under the grill and used that for my lighting grounds. I'm guessing what the DeLorean designers wanted to do was have an indicator when a light bulb burned out. That would explain why they used those grounds and wired the left and right side powers to separate circuits.

[Shep]

Wow. That would be awesome. Just let me know when you print some.
You know.... Since you are going to 3d print lenses, what do you think about lenses that mount all the way to surface of bumper? I am not too crazy about our recessed indicator lights. Just not very aerodynamic imho.Sweet! Actually got a PM on the subject expressing interest in this project, so I made a thread in the Custom Mods section. Apparently there's more interest in this than I thought, so I figured I'd make a separate thread on the subject.

[DMCMW Dave]

Dave, any links to the individual bulb alone? You mentioned you sold it separately, but I don't see any links to where you do. Am curious what kind of bulb you decided on..

If you look at that link again you'll see it lists all the parts by part number. Not clickable, you'll (horrors!) have to type the number into the search box.

For example:
http://store.delorean.com/p-10674-led-front-indicator-amber.aspx

[Farrar]

Just put your parking lights on a relay keyed to anything powered in the "run" position (usually a green/white wire, e.g. shift quadrant light). Voila - "daytime running lights."

[refugeefromcalif]

My 2012 Grand Caravan doesn't have day time running lights.
I can't see the need for my 33+ year old DeLorean to have them.
(As long as current Alabama laws say it doesn't have too)... :partyhat:

George

[Tillsy]

I relayed up my park circuit to offload the current and automatically turn on when my D is in RUN to act as DRL. The LEDs through the front park lenses look pretty awesome and, like most DRL setups, really make the car stand out no matter the road conditions.

I then replaced the headlight switch mech with a hazard switch mech so that the headlights only need a single toggle on/off (plus power feed is triggered via ACC so I cannot accidentally leave them on, which I was doing a lot due to being used to modern cars turning them off 30 seconds after walking away).

[Ryan S.]

I relayed up my park circuit to offload the current and automatically turn on when my D is in RUN to act as DRL. The LEDs through the front park lenses look pretty awesome and, like most DRL setups, really make the car stand out no matter the road conditions.

I then replaced the headlight switch mech with a hazard switch mech so that the headlights only need a single toggle on/off (plus power feed is triggered via ACC so I cannot accidentally leave them on, which I was doing a lot due to being used to modern cars turning them off 30 seconds after walking away).

Nice. Sounds like you have the set up that I want. Sorry for my ignorance with relay set up. I understand using ACC as relay on but what did you use to power up park lights? Any particular source that you used? I would really appreciate if you can provide me with some more detail on how you set up a relay to power up parking lights. Diagram would be super. I assume that you used 1157 LED bulbs. Did you use white or amber color bulbs?
Thank you

[Tillsy]

Sorry for my ignorance with relay set up. I understand using ACC as relay on but what did you use to power up park lights? Any particular source that you used?

The relay itself is powered from the ACC circuit (in my case I used the RUN circuit so the park lights only come on when the car is running) - tapping into the ACC circuit (or RUN) is no problem because you're only powering the relay, you're not trying to run the lights themselves off it.

So, the power source for the lights themselves - just use the existing power source going into the existing light switch (brown/blue from memory). Think of it this way - the light switch works at all times, there is always power there (in fact from memory it is an unfused feed directly from the main junction point), you're just swapping using the switch to toggle that power to the park circuit and using a relay to do it instead. From memory the park light power feed is red/green - don't confuse it with the actual red/yellow park circuit itself, that only goes to the headlight switch to power its backlight.

You're then removing all that current flow from the switch, which can't handle it anyway, plus automating it.

Disclaimer - what I'm saying above is the easy way of doing it. I didn't actually do it that way - I permanently joined the circuits in the front console and cut into the park circuit in the fuse area so that my relay was back there with the rest (both standard DeLorean relays plus all the extras I installed for various functions).


I assume that you used 1157 LED bulbs. Did you use white or amber color bulbs?
I used 1157 SMDs from SuperBrightLEDs - went with amber as I found it better transmitted through the amber lense, as white LED isn't really pure and doesn't carry through coloured lenses as well.

[Andy]

I have never understood why people would wanna have 'modern' and 'saver' features on a 35-year old car? I mean, it was deamed 'safe' when it came out in 1981, why wouldn't it be 'safe' now? Modern features like DRL, led-lights, power steering or cruise control (to name only a few) and those sorts of 'modern' things don't go with an 'old' car in my opinion. That's like putting DRL on a Ford Model T, just because it 'would be safer to drive'...

I have al those 'modern' things (well, a lot off anyway) on my daily driver, but I've never missed any of them on my Delorean ... When I drive my DeLorean, I wanna drive my DeLorean, and not have the feeling that I'm in a 'modern' car ; for that I drive my daily driver ...

Just an opinion offcourse, everybody does with his car what he wants to do ...

[Ryan S.]

The relay itself is powered from the ACC circuit (in my case I used the RUN circuit so the park lights only come on when the car is running) - tapping into the ACC circuit (or RUN) is no problem because you're only powering the relay, you're not trying to run the lights themselves off it.

So, the power source for the lights themselves - just use the existing power source going into the existing light switch (brown/blue from memory). Think of it this way - the light switch works at all times, there is always power there (in fact from memory it is an unfused feed directly from the main junction point), you're just swapping using the switch to toggle that power to the park circuit and using a relay to do it instead. From memory the park light power feed is red/green - don't confuse it with the actual red/yellow park circuit itself, that only goes to the headlight switch to power its backlight.

You're then removing all that current flow from the switch, which can't handle it anyway, plus automating it.

Disclaimer - what I'm saying above is the easy way of doing it. I didn't actually do it that way - I permanently joined the circuits in the front console and cut into the park circuit in the fuse area so that my relay was back there with the rest (both standard DeLorean relays plus all the extras I installed for various functions).


I used 1157 SMDs from SuperBrightLEDs - went with amber as I found it better transmitted through the amber lense, as white LED isn't really pure and doesn't carry through coloured lenses as well.


Thanks for that info. I wanted to just have the front amber lights to stay on only. Minus side markers and rear light. Your set up would effectively turn on everything minus headlight, right?

[Shep]

I have never understood why people would wanna have 'modern' and 'saver' features on a 35-year old car? I mean, it was deamed 'safe' when it came out in 1981, why wouldn't it be 'safe' now?Are you serious? Just because it was "safe" for 1981 does NOT mean it's "safe" by today's standards. Having been rear-ended by a driver going 55 MPH while I was stopped and walking away with only a couple nicks and bruises, I guarantee you no DeLorean would've protected me in that scenario. Among things that were designed into the safety that really saved my ass:

- Airbags
- Unibody design
- Automatic engine/fuel shut-off
- Electronic stability control
- Crumple sections integrated into the body and trunk
- ABS
- Pretensioners

Just to name a few. The notion that "early 80's bleeding-edge" safety features is good enough for today's modern usage is ridiculous. There's a reason every auto manufacturer around today keeps coming up with new features designed to improve safety (pre-collision braking, lane departure warning, backup cameras, blind spot monitors, mirror-mounted blinkers, etc.). If you can't keep up with both the safety of today's vehicles and the mindset of today's drivers, you don't sell cars.

[Ryan S.]

I agree. This is really for safety. Not convenience or comfort. Back in 80s, we didn't have people texting or cell phone while driving.
Recently I got hit by a distracted driver in my Lotus, a modern car. Unfortunately, it was totaled. I walked away from an accident but now I am going through PT, dealing with insurances, doctors, lawyers, not enough money to buy another Lotus, and one less car. Perhaps, I am paranoid but I don't want to take any chances with my D. And go through the same $hit again. If I get hit, I know for sure that those insurance companies won't pay me enough to buy another D like mine. Yes, I know that those stupid yellow lights won't save me from those drunk drivers or texting teenagers but... just trying to increase my odds in my favor here when I am driving my D.
:blackeye:

[Chris4099]

I just thought I would throw in a few notes/issues I've learned about over the years.

First is the 3rd brake light. A study I read shows it only reduces the chance of a rear end by about 5%. While an improvement, it's not that great. However, the same study also showed that going from incandescent brake lights to LED, was about 3x more effective then a 3rd brake light! This is due for two reasons. First being the LEDs come on about 100ms faster then incandescent which gives the driver behind you more reaction time. Second is the instant on of an LED does a better job of grabbing the attention of the driver versus the slow ramp up of an incandescent. So if you are looking for safety from behind, switch out the bulbs for LEDs in the back. I myself have both a 3rd LED brake light (mounted at the top of the louvers) and LED brake lights for maximum effectiveness. :)

As for converting the front signal lights to LED, you need to be careful of cheap 1157 LED bulbs. I've been burned twice by them now. First set I bought for my DD brake lights were regular 1156 bulbs with a 1157 base (both terminals were wired together)! Caused all kinds of major issues and good thing I checked them before actually driving the car. The first set I purchased for my D had an issue when if the blinker circuit is grounded (which the blinker module does and is perfectly normal on older cars), the marker light switches off. This results in it working with the turn signal but not parking lights. Talk about frustrating to figure that out! I even made a YouTube video on it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tci97uxfptA

One day I hope to put DRLs on my D too. But I'll probably wait until I replace the headlights themselves with integrated DRLs. Still waiting on a good LED headlight solution as I want the power savings too.

[Dangermouse]

At times, round here anyway, I think we are getting to the point where more cars have DRLs on (or have manually switched their lights on, or forgotten to turn them off) that the car without any lights on may not be seen by another motorist for a split second longer than if it had been lit, particular in reduced visibility, or if the motorists car has a heavy tint.

I have been caught a couple of times in my DD, trying to pull out of an intersection, where there is a steady stream of lighted cars (so your brain starts to equate car=light) and you see a dark spot in the traffic, so you think it is a gap, only to find it is a car w/o lights. Oddly, its almost always a Leaf.

And referencing a point made above I see cars all the time with lights at the front and no lights at the rear, not sure whether they are on DRLs or auto-lights.

Mind you, in traffic one night last week, and I could sense a car in my right hand side blind spot (you know how that sometimes happens). I hadn't noticed him there as he had no lights on (front, or rear as I found out when he passed me). However as he drew level, I could clearly see that every light on his dash was lit up, so he obviously thought he had his lights on.

[Mark D]

Having read through this thread I'm still not sure why anyone would want DRL's as people are describing them on a DeLorean. EG just wanting front amber parking lights on.

Why not just turn on your headlights? If safety and being intentionally conspicuous is the intended benefit of DRL's then wouldn't you want headlights, front amber, side amber, side red, and rear red lights all on instead of just two front parking lights?

[Shep]

Having read through this thread I'm still not sure why anyone would want DRL's as people are describing them on a DeLorean. EG just wanting front amber parking lights on.

Why not just turn on your headlights? If safety and being intentionally conspicuous is the intended benefit of DRL's then wouldn't you want headlights, front amber, side amber, side red, and rear red lights all on instead of just two front parking lights?Not sure if you missed it, but I believe OP is planning on using white DRL's in a clear lens, so they won't be amber until the turn signal is activated.

[Mark D]

Not sure if you missed it, but I believe OP is planning on using white DRL's in a clear lens, so they won't be amber until the turn signal is activated.

Again, why not just turn on your headlights? DRL's on modern cars are limited in light output because of the additional power consumption and potential fuel mileage loss. If the primary concern here is safety just turn on your headlights.

[ssdelorean]

Again, why not just turn on your headlights? DRL's on modern cars are limited in light output because of the additional power consumption and potential fuel mileage loss. If the primary concern here is safety just turn on your headlights.

Yep.

I look at DLRs as a solution by automakers and lawmakers to try and make lazy/irresponsible drivers to be safer for themselves and others out there. I mean, no one is responsible for their actions anymore so someone else has to look out for you. If they really wanted to make DLRs a safety feature they would include the rear lights. Too many people around my area only use the DLRs and it is really hard to see them from behind - at dusk, low light, regular night, rain, etc. If the fronts are on the backs should be on. Easy as hitting the button or turning the knob. I'm not lazy so I just don't understand.

[Shep]

Again, why not just turn on your headlights? DRL's on modern cars are limited in light output because of the additional power consumption and potential fuel mileage loss. If the primary concern here is safety just turn on your headlights.I don't think you understand the issue at hand. I have had more people than I care to count turn in front of me making me slam on the brakes, or creep into my lane because they like the middle of the road better than their own lane, or otherwise put my car in danger just because I don't have any lights on and they assume no lights = no car. This isn't about the people behind us either. Talk all you want about guys driving around relying on DRL's when headlights are called for, that's not how I drive, and lumping us into that category is a huge misjustification at best. If visibility is decreased, I'll turn my parking lights on. If it gets dark, I turn on my headlights. Otherwise, I use DRL's. That's how I drive, and that's how my cars are set up.

Frankly 99% of this anti-DRL discussion has fallen victim to the assumption that we must be bad drivers (or as ssdelorean put it, "lazy" drivers) who don't know when to use headlights just because we want DRL's. We know how to drive and keep ourselves safe. That is why we want DRL's in the first place. This is just as bad as someone asking for advice on a BTTF conversion and it turning into another DeLorean Purists vs. BTTF Enthusiasts battle. This isn't a "should I X" thread, it's a "how do I X" thread.

[refugeefromcalif]

If visibility is decreased, I'll turn my parking lights on. If it gets dark, I turn on my headlights. Otherwise, I use DRL's. That's how I drive, and that's how my cars are set up.
I've read the wikipedia definition of Daytime Running lamps/lights. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daytime_running_lamp)
Which light(s)/DRL's, are you referring to being ON when your DeLorean is going forward?


Frankly 99% of this anti-DRL discussion has fallen victim to the assumption that we must be bad drivers who don't know when to use headlights just because we want DRL's. We know how to drive and keep ourselves safe. That is why we want DRL's in the first place. This is just as bad as someone asking for advice on a BTTF conversion and it turning into another DeLorean Purists vs. BTTF Enthusiasts battle. This isn't a "should I X" thread, it's a "how do I X" thread.
Not trying to start a fight but, I want to understand your difference between using ANY lights, (that a stock DeLorean already has), for daytime safety/visability.?

:popcorn:

George

[DMCVegas]

Are you serious? Just because it was "safe" for 1981 does NOT mean it's "safe" by today's standards. Having been rear-ended by a driver going 55 MPH while I was stopped and walking away with only a couple nicks and bruises, I guarantee you no DeLorean would've protected me in that scenario. Among things that were designed into the safety that really saved my ass:

- Airbags
- Unibody design
- Automatic engine/fuel shut-off
- Electronic stability control
- Crumple sections integrated into the body and trunk
- ABS
- Pretensioners

Just to name a few. The notion that "early 80's bleeding-edge" safety features is good enough for today's modern usage is ridiculous. There's a reason every auto manufacturer around today keeps coming up with new features designed to improve safety (pre-collision braking, lane departure warning, backup cameras, blind spot monitors, mirror-mounted blinkers, etc.). If you can't keep up with both the safety of today's vehicles and the mindset of today's drivers, you don't sell cars.

In your examples there, be aware that there is a difference between both crash avoidance and crash safety. The DeLorean itself absolutely has crumple zones for energy absorption. Now there may examples that I am not aware of, but the only time I've ever heard of a fatality involving a DMC-12 was many years ago on the DML where it was not just a head-on collision, but it involved a raised truck that drove over the car. Plus we do not know the other specifics involved such as if the driver was wearing a seatbelt, etc. Though we have seen some rather nasty impacts in the past here where owners have walked away just fine.

A unibody design doesn't really offer more protection per se than other vehicle frame types. It does help with fuel economy savings, though at the cost of a higher manufacturing price. Fuel Cut-off, inertia switches, or whatever you want to call them, those likewise do more harm than good. I've had a tire blow out in the middle of the freeway in rush hour, and it triggered the inertia switch in my truck. I had less than a minute to get over into the emergency lane, and before I could even stop the engine died on me. If I had gotten stuck in the middle of the road, I would absolutely have gotten rear-ended.

But this is something that we can nitpick go round and round on. Though if we really want to talk about the absolute safety of the DMC-12, George Washington University has not only the original video footage of the crash tests in their archives, but the telemetry data as well. Which ranks the car as being quite safe from what I was told by a archivist who was looking over the documentation.
http://www.ncac.gwu.edu/ncac/filmlibrary/index.html

Safety here is what we're talking about though. Myself, I don't look upon DRLs as a "safety feature" in any way. I merely view them as a customization option. Which of course is fine. Again, it's your car, do what you want. But I don't think that anyone should be lulled into a false sense of security. DRLs are not going to prevent you from being rear-ended, and like any safety feature are not a substitute for other common sense solutions. Such as not driving in another person's blindspot. Or with stability controls, the best way to survive an accident is to avoid one all together. True, but I'd rather pull over until the rain passes than just try and beat it. Or with the DRLs here as an example. If you feel that having lights on upfront is in your best safety interests, then chances are that you just need to turn your headlights on.

And again, don't fall for that false sense of security. I've driven the low-slung DeLorean, I've driven my other compact cars, vans, mid-size and full size pickups, and even a 26' U-Haul truck towing a car. Let me tell you the one thing that I've discovered: It doesn't matter how big, nor how bright your vehicle is: People will STILL pull out in front of you. A bunch of fancy wiring and a pair of headlights burning at 80%, or even all your quad beams burning on high are NOT going to prevent people from turning out in front of you. It doesn't have a thing to do with you at all. It's just the nature of the risks we take while driving any vehicle.

Again, if you want to customize your car, please, go right ahead. But just don't think that anything is going to change, and that you're going to magically be safer. Because you just simply won't be.

[Shep]

I've read the wikipedia definition of Daytime Running lamps/lights. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daytime_running_lamp)
Which light(s)/DRL's, are you referring to being ON when your DeLorean is going forward?My actual DRL's. Bought them off eBay a while back. They double as turn signals to boot. There's pics in this post (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10602-Side-Marker-Blinker-LED-s&p=156575&viewfull=1#post156575).

First two are with the hazards on, last one with the parking lights on. When I get my angel eyes in, I'm going to hook up the outer set as turn signals and the inner set as DRL's (going with a flux band up front which would otherwise block the housing, hence the design change).


In your examples there, be aware that there is a difference between both crash avoidance and crash safety.I'm aware of that difference and it remains unchanged -- every single one of those came into play in that rear-end collision I had. ESC and ABS kicked in when my car was propelled forward and into a car in front of me. Had it not been for those two, the tires woud've skidded and I would've veered into oncoming traffic. With them, I managed to get the car to stay in my lane and avoid a head-on collision.


A unibody design doesn't really offer more protection per se than other vehicle frame types."Unibody" might not be the correct term for it, but the way in which my Subaru's steel chassis was manufactured, the rear of the body diverted the force of the impact around the interior to the front of the car, resulting in the front and rear of my car being severely damaged while the interior remained mostly undamaged.


Fuel Cut-off, inertia switches, or whatever you want to call themTwo different things. Inertia switches as you mentioned are more susceptible to false positives for the exact reasons you mentioned. The ECU controlled the fuel cutoff in my car via an array of sensors, not just one lone inertia switch.


Safety here is what we're talking about though.It's actually not. The thread is titled "How about daytime running lights?" I don't know where or how this safety topic got into play to be honest, and I go back to the last sentence George quoted: "This isn't a 'should I X' thread, it's a 'how do I X' thread."

[Andy]

Seems like I started a heavy discussion here ....

Anyway, my point wasn't whether DRL are safer or not (wich they probably are, otherwise manufacturers wouldn't developed them), but I just wanted to say that - in my personal opinion - they don't look right on a DeLorean. They don't look right on any car that wasn't factory fitted with them for that matter ...

Let's make one thing clear here: my DeLorean is perfectly road safe, with recent new tires, recent new brakes, recent new fluids, ...... I just don't like the 'modern updates' that some people do to their Delorean, but - like I said - that's a personal view. In my opinion, I don't need cruise control of power steering on my DeLorean (I have never missed it before), because that takes away the 'feeling' of driving a DeLorean. I admit that something can be said for DRL or a third brakinglight (for example) in case of safety, but I've never been in an accident with my DeLorean, so I have never felt like that would be any safer.

Maybe I wrongly explained myself a bit a few posts ago, but that's just how I feel at the moment. I have 2 other classic cars at home (besides the DeLorean), and both of them are bone stock, just like they left the factory in 1984 and 1989. Offcourse both of them with recent tires, recent brakes, recent new fluids .... but that's 'maintenance', not 'updates'. Hell, my DeLorean even has the original cassetteplayer it had when it left the factory in 1981 and as long as it works, I won't replace it ...

Does anybody out there feel the same way (I hope I explained myself correctly), or does everybody wants modern updates on there Delorean?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I think the point is to avoid an accident. We all have a lot of close calls. If one of the ideas helps avoid and accident then it has done it's job. But that proof that it saved one or more "fender benders" will never happen.

So each of us has to guess what might help to avoid an accident. My gut feeling is flashing side markers may help if I'm passing on the highway and a car is in my blind spot. Wide view side mirrors also help with that. The third brake light (High mounted, High power LED) may also get attention of a driver a few milliseconds sooner.

[Tillsy]

Must admit I find that concept odd.

Cassettes were standard issue in 1981 so we should have to keep using them instead of SD cards? Where the heck do you even buy a cassette from, and what would you then use to record from iTunes onto said tape?!

DRL, third brakes, and LED lighting didn't exist in 1981 so we can't use them?

Do we extend this as far as tyres, and thus ground almost every Dealorean since the original NCTs are not available?

Personally I find DRLs make vehicles stand out for me, so I intentionally do likewise. DRL option was turned off by default on my Jeep so I turned it on - my DeLorean didn't have it so I set it up. But, again, for me it is about being visible hence I use the entire park circuit (front parks, side markers, rear parks) to ensure visibility from all directions since I value the visibility trucks and buses provide by doing likewise.

[Andy]

Must admit I find that concept odd.

Cassettes were standard issue in 1981 so we should have to keep using them instead of SD cards? Where the heck do you even buy a cassette from, and what would you then use to record from iTunes onto said tape?!

DRL, third brakes, and LED lighting didn't exist in 1981 so we can't use them?

Do we extend this as far as tyres, and thus ground almost every Dealorean since the original NCTs are not available?

Personally I find DRLs make vehicles stand out for me, so I intentionally do likewise. DRL option was turned off by default on my Jeep so I turned it on - my DeLorean didn't have it so I set it up. But, again, for me it is about being visible hence I use the entire park circuit (front parks, side markers, rear parks) to ensure visibility from all directions since I value the visibility trucks and buses provide by doing likewise.

I don't think it's 'odd' in any way, I'm just a sucker for keeping my car(s) as original as possible. And I still have a casetteplayer, yes, and I have about 200+ cassettes still in my collection, so I can change alot between them. And besides, there's still the 'normal' radio, isn't there?

About the tires: I see that as 'maintaining' a Delorean, not 'updating'. I have brandnew Michelins on my car, by the way ...

Like I said, it's not because it available today, that I have to put it on my DeLorean ... You don't put cruise control on your Ford Model T just because it's available, don't you? :smile:

This is offcourse a personal opinion, but in the end, it's still my car, isn't it? Like I said, everyone can do with their car what they wan't !

[Ryan S.]

Hmmm.... I just wanted to see how others have modify their lighting system and learn how to wire correctly.
Since I am the OP, could we keep this HOW TO technical thread? Please...
Thank you
Ryan

[jangell]

In the vain, I wrote up how I rewired the headlight circuit so that it toggles with the ignition. It's not quite the same as DLR, but for my purposes it basically is, since I just leave the headlights on all the time now.

http://www.tmproductions.com/upgrades-and-modifications/2014/11/6/ignition-switched-headlights

-- Joe

[Ryan S.]

In the vain, I wrote up how I rewired the headlight circuit so that it toggles with the ignition. It's not quite the same as DLR, but for my purposes it basically is, since I just leave the headlights on all the time now.

http://www.tmproductions.com/upgrades-and-modifications/2014/11/6/ignition-switched-headlights

-- Joe
Hey Joe
Thanks so much for sharing. This is helpful. Also thank Shep, Notifier, Tillsy, Chris, and etc... !!!
Also if anyone has installed any external LED lights and would like to share, that would be super.

[Rich W]

Hmmm.... I just wanted to see how others have modify their lighting system and learn how to wire correctly.
Since I am the OP, could we keep this HOW TO technical thread? Please...
Thank you
Ryan

Hi Ryan,

Toby Peterson and I started talking about doing a DRL system similar to the C6 Corvette back in late 2004 (after discussing it at DCS 2004).

Toby had mentioned the desire to have DRL's for DeLoreans in the PNW, with the frequent foggy and misty weather (not Misty, lol),
especially in the mountains, and I had been doing a lot of frequent driving through low-lying foggy areas here in the Midwest.

Visibility was the main reason for the amber DRL's, especially for foggy conditions where OEM headlights can make things worse for a driver.

At that time, we were waiting for technology to catch up, to make an aftermarket DRL with LEDs more cost effective, so now a decade later
I need to check back with Toby to see if he is still looking to "throw his hat into the ring" with our decade-old concept.

Later,
Rich W.

[Ryan S.]

Hi Rich,
That sounds great. Toby makes/sells cool stuffs and I have several of his. I am still waiting for his new ez-oil plug. Actually I need to order a remote battery cut off system from him also.
Take care
Ryan

[Notifier]

I thought I remember seeing one time a front parking/signal lamp that had a yellow and white lens to it. I'm thinking it had to do with European specs that the parking light was clear and the turn signal light was yellow. I could be mistaken but I thought I remember seeing it on here at one point. Tired to do a search for it with no luck. Maybe someone else remembers these? Could use something like that for your DRLs.

[Lukas]

That would be one of the Australian cars. I believe there's a separate light for the white and amber parts. 34652

I'll message him to see where he got them from.

[Notifier]

That would be one of the Australian cars. I believe there's a separate light for the white and amber parts. 34652

I'll message him to see where he got them from.
That's what I was thinking of!

[DMCVegas]

It's actually not. The thread is titled "How about daytime running lights?" I don't know where or how this safety topic got into play to be honest, and I go back to the last sentence George quoted: "This isn't a 'should I X' thread, it's a 'how do I X' thread."

The idea being pitched out that DRLs are a safety addition in order to justify their installation. It's been proven that they're not a safety benefit whatsoever, and I believe that is something important to recognize. I believe such because honestly most DeLorean owners are so timid as is about their cars, and throwing some other fears at them doesn't help to boost confidence in the marque.

Most of all though, I just can't understand why in the world people just can't be honest with themselves and and admit that they just simply like something for what it is. And be fully aware that I'm not saying this as an anti-customization statement. I'm actually saying this as a pro-customization statement. If you like the look of DRLs, that's great! Go ahead and install them. But don't try and *justify* the modification as a "safety necessity".

I mean, I get it. Many people are purists, and modifying a car carries a bit of a stigma with it (perceived or not) for the owner who does so. That stigma is the worry about being labeled as a "bad owner" and then getting into confrontations about what you've done with your car. As with this case where if you install DRLs you can claim "Oh, I just had to do it! It was a necessity in order to keep the car safe" as a way to literally justify your actions to others in order to appease them so you can avoid confrontation. What I'm saying is that you should just do what you want simply because you like it. If you want to add DRLs, please do so. If modifying your car makes you happy, please do it. But most importantly, do it because it makes you happy, and NEVER try and justify it to anyone else. When you try and make excuses, you easily start spreading misinformation.

If you want DRLs, great! Go ahead and do it. But be honest about wanting/installing them because it's something you want for yourself. Don't try and pass off excuses or false information to try and justify what you did. That's all I'm saying.

[Shep]

Honestly, did you even read any of the last page? Or what I said that you just quoted? Or even this?:

Hmmm.... I just wanted to see how others have modify their lighting system and learn how to wire correctly.
Since I am the OP, could we keep this HOW TO technical thread? Please...
Thank you
Ryan

Why are you so adamant on converting a "how to" thread into a discussion on whether or not it's "safe"? We get it, you don't feel it's safe. But you're not the only voice here, and others (myself included) feel very much differently, and have experiences that differ from yours.


Don't try and pass off excuses or false information to try and justify what you did. That's all I'm saying.No, it's clearly not "all you're saying." You're trying to prove a point here, and none of the rest of us care. There haven't been ANY "excuses" or "false information" presented as justification for DRL's, this thread was created asking how it's done. Quit being the monarch of righteousness here.

And as for the first sentence, I find it highly ironic and hypocritical because in the same post, you yourself are passing off excuses and false information to try and justify what you did, which is exactly what you told us NOT to do. We're not "throwing other fears" at DeLorean owners, nor are we saying it's a "safety necessity", yet you justify yourself by saying you believe it's important to recognize the safety aspect, which is an argument that you started in Post #7 (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11932-How-about-daytime-running-lights&p=173498&viewfull=1#post173498) of this thread. I don't know why you're being so aggressive here, but it's wholly unnecessary and uncalled for.

Give it a rest already, sheesh.

[jmettee]

Hey Joe
Thanks so much for sharing. This is helpful. Also thank Shep, Notifier, Tillsy, Chris, and etc... !!!
Also if anyone has installed any external LED lights and would like to share, that would be super.

I installed Philips DayLight 8 LED Daytime Running Lamps - about $80 at PepBoys when I got them 1-2 years ago. I wanted a relatively clean look & a very visible light for safety reasons. I want to be SEEN by other drivers since the DMC is so low compared to other cars & also blends in with the road, especially in rain & cloudy days. I didn't want it to be seen or gaudy, & am happy with these units. I mounted them through the rock screen using fender washers. They have a control module that you wire into power, ground, & the headlight circuit. They are completely automatic & I am very pleased with how they work & look. Where I mounted them (top of the screen, against the bottom of the fascia, you can't see them unless you are a good 10-20 ft from the car, so they are kind of hidden.

Here is the only video I have, & luckily it's a grey day to show how well they stand out. I don't have pics with me to show how they look up close, I'd have to take some when I get home. PM me if you have any specific questions.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRDXA42V6cY

[Ryan S.]

Justin
Thanks for sharing. Lights look outstanding and very bright. Plus your exhaust sounds amazing. Very cool video.
Side notes, did you add anything other than DMC cam and flowmaster for performance upgrade? Did that make any significant differences?

[jmettee]

Justin
Thanks for sharing. Lights look outstanding and very bright. Plus your exhaust sounds amazing. Very cool video.
Side notes, did you add anything other than DMC cam and flowmaster for performance upgrade? Did that make any significant differences?

I snapped a couple pics to show the mounting. The housings are metal & glass.. Good quality from Philips.

The exhaust gave me the sound I wanted, but it was the cams that livened up the car. Got a decent increase in power & the car moves noticeably better. Climbing hills & general acceleration are improved.

[David T]

Honestly, did you even read any of the last page? Or what I said that you just quoted? Or even this?:


Why are you so adamant on converting a "how to" thread into a discussion on whether or not it's "safe"? We get it, you don't feel it's safe. But you're not the only voice here, and others (myself included) feel very much differently, and have experiences that differ from yours.

No, it's clearly not "all you're saying." You're trying to prove a point here, and none of the rest of us care. There haven't been ANY "excuses" or "false information" presented as justification for DRL's, this thread was created asking how it's done. Quit being the monarch of righteousness here.

And as for the first sentence, I find it highly ironic and hypocritical because in the same post, you yourself are passing off excuses and false information to try and justify what you did, which is exactly what you told us NOT to do. We're not "throwing other fears" at DeLorean owners, nor are we saying it's a "safety necessity", yet you justify yourself by saying you believe it's important to recognize the safety aspect, which is an argument that you started in Post #7 (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11932-How-about-daytime-running-lights&p=173498&viewfull=1#post173498) of this thread. I don't know why you're being so aggressive here, but it's wholly unnecessary and uncalled for.

Give it a rest already, sheesh.

There are two aspects of safety when it comes to DRL. The first and most obvious one is if it helps other drivers see and avoid you. There is some debate over that but even if it doesn't help much any benefit is good. The other aspect is to modify the car so it is done safely. You don't want to overload the electrical system and any changes you do should be done is such a manner as to be professional, including fuses, relays, neatness documentation, etc. The second one is the one you have the most control over. If you hack up the car and the system is unreliable you are defeating the whole purpose.

[Shep]

There are two aspects of safety when it comes to DRL.Seriously David, seriously? :offtopic2:

I don't know how many times it has to be said, but I'll say it again: this is NOT a discussion about safety, it's a "how to" thread. If you want to discuss safety, make a new thread. Let's stick to the topic OP has requested, m'kay?

[ssdelorean]

If visibility is decreased, I'll turn my parking lights on. If it gets dark, I turn on my headlights.

And by your own actions you are not lazy.

I'm not anti DLR, I'm anti government for enabling lazy. To may chodes around here do not turn on their lights at dusk, in the rain and at night. Those are the lazy people thinking they don't have to because they are using the DLRs.


(or as ssdelorean put it, "lazy" drivers)

You can use my name. I'm not afraid of it. That's why I sign my posts in the sig :-)





Yep.

I look at DLRs as a solution by automakers and lawmakers to try and make lazy/irresponsible drivers to be safer for themselves and others out there. I mean, no one is responsible for their actions anymore so someone else has to look out for you. If they really wanted to make DLRs a safety feature they would include the rear lights. Too many people around my area only use the DLRs and it is really hard to see them from behind - at dusk, low light, regular night, rain, etc. If the fronts are on the backs should be on. Easy as hitting the button or turning the knob. I'm not lazy so I just don't understand.


I don't think you understand the issue at hand. I have had more people than I care to count turn in front of me making me slam on the brakes, or creep into my lane because they like the middle of the road better than their own lane, or otherwise put my car in danger just because I don't have any lights on and they assume no lights = no car. This isn't about the people behind us either. Talk all you want about guys driving around relying on DRL's when headlights are called for, that's not how I drive, and lumping us into that category is a huge misjustification at best. If visibility is decreased, I'll turn my parking lights on. If it gets dark, I turn on my headlights. Otherwise, I use DRL's. That's how I drive, and that's how my cars are set up.

Frankly 99% of this anti-DRL discussion has fallen victim to the assumption that we must be bad drivers (or as ssdelorean put it, "lazy" drivers) who don't know when to use headlights just because we want DRL's. We know how to drive and keep ourselves safe. That is why we want DRL's in the first place. This is just as bad as someone asking for advice on a BTTF conversion and it turning into another DeLorean Purists vs. BTTF Enthusiasts battle. This isn't a "should I X" thread, it's a "how do I X" thread.

[David T]

Hard to say this thread is not about safety when you are asking to install an item to improve safety. There are a lot of ways to do it so it is hard to give you a line-by-line procedure to follow. If you buy a module to do it they come with manufacturer instructions but you have to make it work in your particular application. My point was that you must do it well so you don't compromise your electrical or lighting systems. That defeats the whole point. Start with the wiring diagram. Use fuses, circuit breakers, and other protective devices. Cut and splice wires following good workmanship procedures. Fasten the wiring. My biggest complaint about electrical things people add to their cars is the terrible way they do it. Besides no documentation, the workmanship is atrocious. It compounds the unreliability. Alarms are typically the worst followed by sound systems. That's OK though because if they fail the car is still safe to drive. If you touch the lights imagine what you will do if they suddenly go off or start blinking because of a bad connection?

[DMC-81]

I installed Philips DayLight 8 LED Daytime Running Lamps - about $80 at PepBoys when I got them 1-2 years ago. I wanted a relatively clean look & a very visible light for safety reasons. I want to be SEEN by other drivers since the DMC is so low compared to other cars & also blends in with the road, especially in rain & cloudy days.

Cool! I like the clean look. This reminds me of the lights I installed on my beloved Scirocco 16V. 25 years ago, they were called fog or rain lights, and the good ones were Halogen. Apart from the coolness factor back then, I noticed that these gave additional light down lower and for a greater distance, as I was doing more night driving. I think laws vary on these.

As far as safety goes, these days I am more concerned with the rear of the car as more and more drivers are focused on their smartphones than on the road. A week ago I got rear ended in my Magnum, and yesterday the guy behind me got the same bumper treatment. Crazy, but that's a different topic.

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