2 post lift - asymmetrical or symmetrical?

[acaciolo]

I am looking to buy a certified lift for a new garage I am building, and it looks like there are a bunch of great options around $2500. I know the advantages of an asymmetrical lift in terms of opening doors on "normal cars" but I am not sure that with the delorean's gull wing doors and rear engine that the asymmetrical is correct. I am looking at danmar or weaver certified units.

thanks !

tony c

[David T]

You don't need an asymmetrical lift for a Delorean but it is a better choice if you are going to use it for other cars too. Make sure the floor is very strong and the lift is properly attached to the floor. Be aware that most lifts require 220 Volts.

[DMCMW Dave]

My preference is for the asymmetrical. The cost difference is minimal. I personally prefer Rotary brand (I have 3 of them) but they are expensive. There are many good brands, but there are some cheapies to avoid.

I'd also pay extra for the low-arm design (better with lowered cars) and there is an option to add some lift height which is nice if you are personally on the tall side.

In any case contact the manufacturer for the floor spec as it's definitely thicker/stronger than the typical residential garage floor. Also watch the height, you typically need 11 feet for one with an overhead trolley cables. There are shorter versions with the trolley cables on the floor but they make it harder to keep the floor clean if that's an issue.

[DrJeff]

I installed the MaxJax two post symmetrical. Documented as 220v, but takes 110v 15amp on a dedicated circuit. I spaced the posts so they can accommodate opening the doors while the car is on the ground. I have never owned the doors while the car is on the lift. Garage built to accommodate full size RV so floor was thicker (6+in) than in my prior house (4in)

[acaciolo]

thanks for all the tips! I have 12' in this new garage, so I should just make it for most of the lifts. I am sticking with the name brands, as saving a few hundred bucks on something i am going to be standing under doesn't seem like a wise place to save money!

The Danmar asymmetrical looked good, but this challenger looks good as it claims to be the best of both worlds, asymmetrical and symmetrical. http://www.challengerlifts.com/E10.shtml

pretty much all of them will be between $2500 and $3000. I'll also be pouring my floor 6" thick at 5000 psi (I am a home builder.)

thanks again.
tony

[DMCMW Dave]

One other thing - if you are going to this trouble wire it for 220V. 110V lift pumps are slooooow. Also run wiring for drop light reels, an outlet right on the lift riser, and if you really want to go nuts plumb air lines to the lift.

Call the lift company for the concrete spec, I did mine 13 years ago (at home) and I recall the spec was 5 inches but I don't recall the pour spec. I exceeded that, and added a bunch of steel rebar. I also installed a hydronic heating system which is about the neatest way to heat a garage that you want to use in the winter. The tricky part was making sure that the heating tubes are not anywhere near where the lift anchors are going.

And as mentioned watch the garage door - you want a rail extension setup so that the door won't hit the car if you open it with the lift up.

[jmettee]

Tony, I installed a Danmar Admiral 9000 about 3 years ago & it's perfect for me as a home owner. For lowered cars, I need to drive the cars onto cut pieces of 2x8 to raise the car to get the lift pads under it. On my DMC, I have Grady lowering springs on the front & don't need to use the wood pads. My ceiling is 12 ft. The short wheelbase of the DMC is a small hassle with loading it to swing the arms under the car without hitting the tires. I usually get 1 pair positioned then need to roll the car a few inches to get the other pair under the car.

[acaciolo]

This challenger might be better with our short wheelbase due to the shorter arms. http://www.challengerlifts.com/E10.shtml It will fit within my 12' ceiling and the lift pads go down to about 4". My lowered delorean is about 5 1/2"

As a homebuilder, I tend to over do things, so all of your suggestions are spot on! I'll be doing 220, air, lights, etc.

Justin, this could be ready for a tech day in the fall...

Most importantly, there is room in the middle for the massive DMC dealer sign that arrived a few weeks ago!


ps, I am a dealer for race deck flooring and a few really nice stainless garage cabinets - hercke and new age. We are using them in the houses we build. If anybody needs anything, I'd be happy to hook you up.

Tony

[David T]

This challenger might be better with our short wheelbase due to the shorter arms. http://www.challengerlifts.com/E10.shtml It will fit within my 12' ceiling and the lift pads go down to about 4". My lowered delorean is about 5 1/2"

As a homebuilder, I tend to over do things, so all of your suggestions are spot on! I'll be doing 220, air, lights, etc.

Justin, this could be ready for a tech day in the fall...

Most importantly, there is room in the middle for the massive DMC dealer sign that arrived a few weeks ago!


ps, I am a dealer for race deck flooring and a few really nice stainless garage cabinets - hercke and new age. We are using them in the houses we build. If anybody needs anything, I'd be happy to hook you up.

Tony

If you are overdoing things you will want to epoxy coat the floor. It stops the concrete from dusting and fluids from soaking in and staining. It is expensive and you should wait 6 months on new concrete. I have a 4 post lift which I mainly use for storage but is useful to wok on (just not suspension parts).

[acaciolo]

David,

I agree it is critical to seal the floor. I really like the racedeck tiles, and they have a tuffshield model that cleans up really easily and has a nice shine. I have them in another garage now (the non glossy version) and really like them.

Although I plan on using this garage to work on some cars, it is going to be a "pretty" one also. Stainless cabinets, etc.

Here is the tuffshield:
http://www.racedeck.com/tuffshield-garageflooring.html

[David T]

David,

I agree it is critical to seal the floor. I really like the racedeck tiles, and they have a tuffshield model that cleans up really easily and has a nice shine. I have them in another garage now (the non glossy version) and really like them.

Although I plan on using this garage to work on some cars, it is going to be a "pretty" one also. Stainless cabinets, etc.

Here is the tuffshield:
http://www.racedeck.com/tuffshield-garageflooring.html


Unless you use ceramic tiles, if you use a jack or jackstands you damage the tiles. Even with epoxy, it scratches but is not as noticeable as dents would be in tiles. Tiles can also lift if you spill stuff on them. About the only stuff that will hurt epoxy is battery acid if left on it. Tiles will also lift if you park on it with hot tires.

[acaciolo]

I've had the racedeck installed in my existing garage for about 10 years, and so far, I've been lucky with no dents from my jacks. They do give a lifetime warranty against that too. Porcelain or ceramic would be great, but I can't justify the cost.

[DMCMW Dave]

About the only stuff that will hurt epoxy is battery acid if left on it. .

Brake fluid will stain it.