Dent removal - Dry Ice?

[SIMid]

Anyone tried this?

I believe it's a hoax. *L*

[Soundkillr]

It doesnt work. I do paintless dent for a living. Stainless steel is very hard to push and wont move without tools on the dent. Even on a modern thin steel car, this method does not work.

[SIMid]

Didnt think it would.

Speaking to an expert who has worked on SS, I've got a small one on the bonnet and on the rear quarters from her journey to Australia.

I've spoken to a few paintless dent repairers and they kinda hesistate as it's ..... stainless.

Whats your recommendation to how these guys should approach the panels? They do need to get behind or they can pull them out from the front only?

[Soundkillr]

They really need to get behind the dent. Make sure they are good working dents by shades, and NOT by lines. They will know what that means. Stainless wont show line reflections well, but shows shades easier. On a painted surface most people see a dent by lines or reflections splitting in the dent. On stainless since its a dull finish, your eye see the dent via shade difference. Also make sure they are experienced on high end cars. This usually means they are good at what they do. Stainless is very easy to discolor (meaning a very shiney spot where pushed) so they need to work slow. Once the dent is flush you can sand and regrain if necessary. Hopefully that wont be needed. On the other forum I had some pics of a before and after dent I did in my hood. It was really bad and turned out great. I can post pics from my other computer if you want...

[SIMid]

I guess I can only take the car to them to analyse the dents. If they do have to get behind, then I will have to remove the rear quarter panel? Unless they cut the firbeglass behind it from the inside? Same goes with the bonnet? Will they have to remove the backing of the bonnet?

Oh, when you wet the panel, you can see the imperfections but the reflections.

Would like to see the before and after, including the access you got behind the bonnet. :)

[Soundkillr]

If the dent is behind a brace, they may drill a small hole in the fiber glass for access, at which point you can refill and blend with SEM black. Really easy. I would leave the quarter on the car, because it needs to be hanging for leverage. Again, they may drill a small hole on the pontoon, that they can fill with rubber or plastic plugs...
Before I bought my car a paintless tech who didnt know what he was doing, just about ruined the hood, I reworked the entire area. It was about the size of a silver dollar...
wd40 or similar oil can be added to the panel to shine it up while the tech works....
You can see an area on the hood I had to re blend (Its the cleaner area). Its been a few years, and now it all matches, but if you need to blend, and want a perfect match, re blend the whole panel.

[mluder]

If the dent is behind a brace, they may drill a small hole in the fiber glass for access, at which point you can refill and blend with SEM black. Really easy. I would leave the quarter on the car, because it needs to be hanging for leverage. Again, they may drill a small hole on the pontoon, that they can fill with rubber or plastic plugs...
Before I bought my car a paintless tech who didnt know what he was doing, just about ruined the hood, I reworked the entire area. It was about the size of a silver dollar...
wd40 or similar oil can be added to the panel to shine it up while the tech works....
You can see an area on the hood I had to re blend (Its the cleaner area). Its been a few years, and now it all matches, but if you need to blend, and want a perfect match, re blend the whole panel.

Thant turned out great... Gives me hope for mine.

BTW, I was at a car show this weekend and talked to a paintless dent removal spacialist. I said I needed him as my car had no paint. He asked further. When I explained what it was and the material, he immediately got hasitant.

Steve
#4456

[SIMid]

Looks great! What a shame your not in Australia :(

My dents are no where near the depth of those. They are look like a light touch of an edge of a door. So you can see them in a certain angle and light.

So I hope it's not too difficult to massage out.

I was checking out vids of people using toliet plungers popping out the dents, quite amusing! :lol:

[Soundkillr]

Yea, what you are describing sounds very easy. I did my door and quarter with dings like you are describing in a matter of minutes. The hood on the other hand took ten hours, not including rebuilding the fiber glass I had to cut out.....
Now again, mine was more extreme and was already screwed up by someone who couldnt work stainless. Those combined with its depth and location really slowed me down....

[SIMid]

Yea, what you are describing sounds very easy. I did my door and quarter with dings like you are describing in a matter of minutes. The hood on the other hand took ten hours, not including rebuilding the fiber glass I had to cut out.....
Now again, mine was more extreme and was already screwed up by someone who couldnt work stainless. Those combined with its depth and location really slowed me down....

The one on the bonnet is not behind the FG. I heard that all I have to do is peel the carpet back and I can get access to the back. The rears, he will either get access through the edge of the wheel well or else as you say, drill holes through the pontoon.

Once she is registered on the road, will take it to a few places and see what they say.

They are tiny, but it kills me seeing them! :disapprove:

[crazycro]

soundkillr that's some amazing work! my hat is off to you sir!

[mluder]

The one on the bonnet is not behind the FG. I heard that all I have to do is peel the carpet back and I can get access to the back. The rears, he will either get access through the edge of the wheel well or else as you say, drill holes through the pontoon.

Once she is registered on the road, will take it to a few places and see what they say.

They are tiny, but it kills me seeing them! :disapprove:

As I said, I have the same problem and they drive me nuts too. Funnily enough, Most people can't even see them.

It's one of those things where if you know where to look...

Steve
#4456

[Soundkillr]

soundkillr that's some amazing work! my hat is off to you sir!

Thank you sir! It was tough but worth it. To find a pleated hood with no x is no small feat. It was fix mine or go with a flat hood. I hate dents and it was driving me nuts. I took it off laid several blankets on the table followed by the hood, cranked the a/c in the house and got to it..

[Byrne H&A]

I do not profess knowledge about the partial correction of "non flat SS". Have been told by an old time sheet metal man, SS has memory and wants to return to stamped condition."

"Level the damaged area with conventional tools as mush as possible, then heat the SS metal with a painters torch until very hot and immediately apply ice (this is prior to the era of dry ice)."

Obviously if interested, experiment on similar SS.

[mluder]

I do not profess knowledge about the partial correction of "non flat SS". Have been told by an old time sheet metal man, SS has memory and wants to return to stamped condition."

"Level the damaged area with conventional tools as mush as possible, then heat the SS metal with a painters torch until very hot and immediately apply ice (this is prior to the era of dry ice)."

Obviously if interested, experiment on similar SS.

I also have "heard" that a carefull application of heat can return the metal to it's original shape.

http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/c_body.htm

Steve
#4456

[DeloreanJoshQ]

If the dent is behind a brace, they may drill a small hole in the fiber glass for access, at which point you can refill and blend with SEM black. Really easy. I would leave the quarter on the car, because it needs to be hanging for leverage. Again, they may drill a small hole on the pontoon, that they can fill with rubber or plastic plugs...
Before I bought my car a paintless tech who didnt know what he was doing, just about ruined the hood, I reworked the entire area. It was about the size of a silver dollar...
wd40 or similar oil can be added to the panel to shine it up while the tech works....
You can see an area on the hood I had to re blend (Its the cleaner area). Its been a few years, and now it all matches, but if you need to blend, and want a perfect match, re blend the whole panel.

What specific tools did you use to repair the dent?

[pezzonovante88]

Its nice to see that a dent on a D can be removed properly. I work for a car dealer and our PDR guy is really good and the results I see blow me away. I have a lot of respect for the work these guys do and the skill they have.

[Soundkillr]

What specific tools did you use to repair the dent?

I used hand help pdr tools, but again I do this for a living. You really need to know what you are doing to repair it, especially with stainless.

[dvonk]

soundkillr that's some amazing work! my hat is off to you sir!

+1, incredible! :worship:

[EarlHickey]

I do not profess knowledge about the partial correction of "non flat SS". Have been told by an old time sheet metal man, SS has memory and wants to return to stamped condition."

"Level the damaged area with conventional tools as mush as possible, then heat the SS metal with a painters torch until very hot and immediately apply ice (this is prior to the era of dry ice)."

Obviously if interested, experiment on similar SS.


I use an infrared paint curing bulb/reflector, ice cold water and plenty of it. If it's not creased, sometimes you get lucky. That's no BS.

[mluder]

I wonder is someone who specializes in stainless fabrication and repair for the restaurant industry could handle it?

Cheers.
Steve