Flux Capacitor Storage Doors. One Last Run....

[Steelwings]

OK. As of this morning, ALL of the last run units have now been shipped. (Including the units to Simon and Stian this morning) That was almost 50 total units. Soooo....Over the last few weeks I have received several requests for additional units and I have decided to do one LAST run. (I really mean it this time) This will be a very limited run because the last time there were just too many orders and it turned into an absolute hell-show. Anyway, if you want one, it will be first come-first served and I will be placing my parts order on Friday so if you do indeed want one of these, contact me immediately. I do not foresee making more than 10 so the delivery time should be about six - eight weeks. (I hope) After this run you will be SOL. Anyway, the price is the same $175.00 per unit but the shipping in the USA went up a buck so it's $10.95 for the flat rate box to anywhere in the continental USA. You can contact me at [email protected]. Thanks. Sal

[sean]

So the deadline is Friday by midnight? I'll have this thread sticky-ed until the deadline so let me know when that is over.

[SIMid]

Thanks Sal! :)

Everyone raves about your work, cant wait to experience and become part of my D! :)

Thanks again, looking forward to it!!

[TTait]

My wife has wanted one for a while, can you post a pic here in the thread?

[Steelwings]

Here it is.....




My wife has wanted one for a while, can you post a pic here in the thread?

[Steelwings]

A Short Mpeg....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phxdXODTaMA





My wife has wanted one for a while, can you post a pic here in the thread?

[Steelwings]

Simon,
Thanks for your patience and kind words...Let me know when it gets there!
Sal



Thanks Sal! :)

Everyone raves about your work, cant wait to experience and become part of my D! :)

Thanks again, looking forward to it!!

[dvonk]

WIN. :headbang:

[Chris 16409]

I think I'm going to have to get one of these. This is the only way I'd put a Flux Capacitor in my car. I like that it can be installed and removed in less than a minute. It will be great for car shows. Do you finish them in light gray carpet as well?

[Steelwings]

I think I'm going to have to get one of these. This is the only way I'd put a Flux Capacitor in my car. I like that it can be installed and removed in less than a minute. It will be great for car shows. Do you finish them in light gray carpet as well?

Chris,

The units come in just one color designed to compliment both the light and dark interiors. (it is a medium light grey)

Thanks.

[Chris 16409]

Sal, do you take PayPal? I sent you an email, but thought I'd ask here too.

[Steelwings]

Sal, do you take PayPal? I sent you an email, but thought I'd ask here too.

I do take PayPal. If anyone wishes to purchase a unit, send $175.00 plus $10.95 shipping to me at [email protected] via PayPal. When I receive payment you will be placed on the order list and you will get a confirmation email from me.

Thanks,
Sal

[SIMid]

Simon,
Thanks for your patience and kind words...Let me know when it gets there!
Sal

No need to. Everyone who has got them raves about them! :aniclap:

Will let you know when it arrives and installed. :)

[Chris 16409]

Just curious Sal, how many preorders did you get?

[Tamir A.]

I put in an order for this for what is to be Sal's last run. Can't believe I missed the first set of orders, as these are sweet.

Just wondering, can someone post a pic. of the door in their car? I'm wondering about the lock mechanism. Did people swap out their locks on their current doors and put it on this one or are people just laying it in the space and not locking it? I'm wondering if it would be worthwhile to buy a separate lock from DMC Houston and have the key matched?

T.

[Lenny]

Just ordered one also. I hope it will stop the "Where's the flux capacitor" questions.

[Chris 16409]

Hey Sal, how goes the build process? Can't wait to see them!

[DMCH James]

I got one for my fiance and we just swapped the existing lock from her cubby door to the FC. It's easy to do. I read of at least one person who had Sal make theirs without ANY lock hole, and they mounted it on the back wall under the rear window, where it fits much better than the more screen-accurate props. In hindsight, I would've probably gone that route.

James


I put in an order for this for what is to be Sal's last run. Can't believe I missed the first set of orders, as these are sweet.

Just wondering, can someone post a pic. of the door in their car? I'm wondering about the lock mechanism. Did people swap out their locks on their current doors and put it on this one or are people just laying it in the space and not locking it? I'm wondering if it would be worthwhile to buy a separate lock from DMC Houston and have the key matched?

T.

[Notifier]

I read of at least one person who had Sal make theirs without ANY lock hole, and they mounted it on the back wall under the rear window, where it fits much better than the more screen-accurate props.

I had Sal make mine without any lock hole (no hole and no clips on the bottom), it's my intention to mount it on the back wall but haven't done so yet. Waiting for Dave and his crew to do their magic and when I get the vehicle back from them, one of the first projects I'll be working on. I haven't quite figured out how yet, my thought is to build out the rear wall, install a pair of 6x9 speakers with the flux capacitor in the middle. I'll have to post some pictures on here when that's done (owe that to Sal too).

"No hole" version:
5212

[DMC5180]

What is the depth of the unit? I just tried fitting my Door against the wall. It is 11"x11" It does not fit against the wall, But does stand vertical about 2 inches forward of it. I guess this should work fine by allowing for the depth of the unit. I also like the Idea you can simply put velcro hook on the back of it and stick it to the carpeted wall. Easy to remove that way.

[Notifier]

11"x11"x2" - with a 1 1/4" "flange" around the edge, so if I recessed it into an opening it would only need 3/4" of clearance behind and stick out 1 1/4".

[SIMid]

Thanks for the Flux Sal! :) Really happy with your craftmanship! Whoever has seen it is impressed and I've got a few anal friends as well! :lol:

http://i56.tinypic.com/mugayv.jpg

http://i56.tinypic.com/2ue2yaf.jpg

http://i52.tinypic.com/1ze8v2s.jpg
Sorry for the blurriness, had the shutter open longer to compensate the light.

[Chris 16409]

I had Sal make mine without any lock hole (no hole and no clips on the bottom)

After seeing your post and how it looks without the hole, I was sold. I contacted Sal and told him I didn't want the key hole. I still want the clips on the bottom though. Now, I'm going to have to figure out a way to take it off when I want swap it out for the original door. Maybe I can rig up a little knob to pull.

[Notifier]

After seeing your post and how it looks without the hole, I was sold. I contacted Sal and told him I didn't want the key hole. I still want the clips on the bottom though. Now, I'm going to have to figure out a way to take it off when I want swap it out for the original door. Maybe I can rig up a little knob to pull.

I never could understand the purpose of a locking compartment in an already locked vehicle anyway. If someone went through the trouble of breaking into the car I seriously doubt a 27¢ lock will keep them from going any further. You've got a little bit of meat on the top after the rubber gasket to put a small knob or pull.

Sal did do some nice work. When I originally ordered it I really didn't want to hide it behind the seat so that's why I ordered it without the hole. Now I just gotta figure out what to do with it! I actually want to hook it up three ways: 1.) to the dome light circuit, it goes on when the doors are open; 2.) to the keyless entry so I can press a button and it turns on when I'm out of the car; 3.) to a override switch so it will run continuously. Don't think I want it running when driving, at night it will be too distracting.

[dmc6960]

I never could understand the purpose of a locking compartment in an already locked vehicle anyway.

I use it to store all of my stuff at a public car show, where I always leave my doors open. Absolutely great for that purpose.

[dvonk]

since Sal's original thread describing the flux capacitor storage doors was on the old forum, i had a couple questions about them:

how are they powered? i assume a battery of some sort?

what kind of controls do they have? obviously a power switch; anything else?

any other pertinent details? :smile:

[SIMid]

Now I just gotta figure out what to do with it! to the dome light circuit, it goes on when the doors are open

That's a great idea!!

[SIMid]

since Sal's original thread describing the flux capacitor storage doors was on the old forum, i had a couple questions about them:

how are they powered? i assume a battery of some sort?

what kind of controls do they have? obviously a power switch; anything else?

any other pertinent details? :smile:

I haven't opened mine to check out the batteries, but they will either be AAs or AAAs. On/Off button and also a rotating switch to alter the pulsating light sequence, slow to fast.

[Notifier]

since Sal's original thread describing the flux capacitor storage doors was on the old forum, i had a couple questions about them:

how are they powered? i assume a battery of some sort?

Simple 9V battery. Sal does state that it can be powered with the vehicle 12VDC power source. However I may use a 12V-9V voltage adapter because most cars really put out close to 14VDC+ running, don't want to burn the unit out. I would also suggest using the 9V clip from an old clock radio or something so you don't have to cut the clip on the unit to connect it.


any other pertinent details? :smile:

1.) Disconnect capacitor drive before opening
2.) Shield eyes from light

[dvonk]

On/Off button and also a rotating switch to alter the pulsating light sequence, slow to fast.

nice, i was wondering if the 'fluxing' was adjustable.


Simple 9V battery. Sal does state that it can be powered with the vehicle 12VDC power source. However I may use a 12V-9V voltage adapter because most cars really put out close to 14VDC+ running, don't want to burn the unit out. I would also suggest using the 9V clip from an old clock radio or something so you don't have to cut the clip on the unit to connect it.

i like that idea. i also like the idea of connecting it to the dome light circuit. now all i need is a DeLorean. :lol:




any other pertinent details?

1.) Disconnect capacitor drive before opening
2.) Shield eyes from light

WIN. :headbang:

[sphiend]

OK. As of this morning, ALL of the last run units have now been shipped. (Including the units to Simon and Stian this morning) That was almost 50 total units. Soooo....Over the last few weeks I have received several requests for additional units and I have decided to do one LAST run. (I really mean it this time) This will be a very limited run because the last time there were just too many orders and it turned into an absolute hell-show. Anyway, if you want one, it will be first come-first served and I will be placing my parts order on Friday so if you do indeed want one of these, contact me immediately. I do not foresee making more than 10 so the delivery time should be about six - eight weeks. (I hope) After this run you will be SOL. Anyway, the price is the same $175.00 per unit but the shipping in the USA went up a buck so it's $10.95 for the flat rate box to anywhere in the continental USA. You can contact me at [email protected]. Thanks. Sal

Should be getting close to the estimated delivery time. Still on track?

[videobob]

I have a bunch of these doors I can sell you cheap if you want them, PM me!!

[Steelwings]

Still on track but I have not yet received the circuit boards from my supplier yet. (This is their busy time of year) Also the window gaskets have yet to show up. I'll keep you posted. Stay tuned...

[dvonk]

thanks for the update! :thumbup:

[Farrar]

I just wanted to pipe up here and say that I have really enjoyed my flux door so far. I'm no huge BTTF fan but it's great to answer the first question anyone asks with "Right there."

Farrar

[SIMid]

but it's great to answer the first question anyone asks with "Right there."

Farrar

+1

Ends the conversation extremely quickly and they get back on topic regarding the Delorean itself.

[Chris 16409]

Hey Sal, any updates?

[Notifier]

This is what I did with mine - for now. Just basically wedged it in there and it stays put. I still want to clean it up, connect it up to the electrics of the car, and my thought was to build out from the back wall (would also give me a place to install some halfway decent speakers).
7058 7059

[SIMid]

I got mine signed a few weeks ago. :raveon:

http://i43.tinypic.com/2vs4sbn.jpg

[dvonk]

badass! :headbang: how did you manage that?

[SIMid]

badass! :headbang: how did you manage that?

He came down to Melbourne for Supanova a few weeks ago. So I got a pic with him and in addition with the FC, also got Christopher to sign my BTTF 2 poster. :woot:

[dvonk]

ha, so cool. now you really have something to show off! :biggrin:

[SIMid]

ha, so cool. now you really have something to show off! :biggrin:

:lol:

Just never knew I would eventually get him to sign it. He did look at it and say "Where does this go?" "In my Delorean." I said to him. He raised his eyebrows and signed away.

Sal might be impressed to see the pic. :)

[DL4567]

He came down to Melbourne for Supanova a few weeks ago. So I got a pic with him and in addition with the FC, also got Christopher to sign my BTTF 2 poster. :woot:

Just curious.... Did his handler make you pay for each signature?

[SIMid]

Just curious.... Did his handler make you pay for each signature?

Yup. :mad2:

$40 / sig and $40 / photo.

So my FC is worth $40 more than stock. :lol:

[Tin Man]

Hey Sal, any updates?

X2

[sphiend]

X2

x3 :)

[Tin Man]

I'm a bit concerned he won't see this because he hasn't posted since mid-October, and next Monday will mark the beginning of week 16...

[DeloCamaro64]

Haha that is awesome. Flux Capacitor! :p

[SIMid]

I'm a bit concerned he won't see this because he hasn't posted since mid-October, and next Monday will mark the beginning of week 16...

Email him directly. I know he's flat stick, so patience my friend, he will deliver (,cause he has before).

[StainlessSteelDream]

I'll 2nd that .. just be patient... it's WELL worth the wait .... on the first run we ordered at the end of Dec 2010 and it arrived in mid Aug 2011. (That said .. I'm in Canada and there was a bit of an issue with shipping)

It's an awesome hand-made piece .. I'm glad he didn't rush ...

M

[Steelwings]

Everyone...It's been a long wait but the circuit boards I ordered finally showed up! They were delayed because this is their busy time of year but they are finally here so I can finish these units up and get them out to you. I will be assembling them as quick as I can so don't worry...they are coming! Anyway, I read a few of the posts and I am aware of your concerns. I've been making accessories for the Delorean community for a very long time and I haven't disappointed anyone yet. They're a little late (No surprise there) but I'm doing my best to get them to you. (The circuit board delay got me worried for a while there too!!) But they are here and all have been tested and they are all working. I also ordered a few extra just in case. So stay tuned.....I didn't forget about you.

Oh yeah, I really would love to see that autographed unit from the Doc!
Sal

[Tin Man]

Thank you for the update. I wasn't worried you'd disappoint because others have raved about your work, I was worried something happened because its been awhile since you last posted. I am surprised how long it took the circuitboard manufacturer to complete the boards, though. Makes you wonder what else they're working on that it takes over 2 months to assemble a dozen boards, you know?

[dvonk]

thanks for the update Sal, im looking forward to getting mine! :biggrin:

[SIMid]

Oh yeah, I really would love to see that autographed unit from the Doc!
Sal

Encore for you Sal!

http://i43.tinypic.com/2vs4sbn.jpg

[sphiend]

thanks for the update Sal, im looking forward to getting mine! :biggrin:

Ditto here.

[Steelwings]

Just wanted to update everyone on the Flux Doors. The doors are almost finished and I am working on the upholstery and the front glass/gasket assemblies. (Just remember, I do have a real job) But, as usual, I got more orders than expected and they haven't stopped yet. There always seems to be "just one more" and I just got another two this week. Luckily I got a few extra circuit boards but I have a feeling I will need more before this is over. Anyway, this run turned out to be as big as the last. Sorry about that but I was under the false assumption that this run was just for the straglers that misssed the last one. I didn't expect this at all. Not only that, half of these are going to people that don't even have Deloreans! They've been ordering them without the keyholes and tabs, special colors and mounting systems...That means that there are now at least three different versions of the door....So that pretty much killed the Henry Ford approach to building them. Anyway, they are indeed almost finished and I expect to start shipping sometime within the next two weeks. So just hang in there a little bit longer! They are coming.

You know, it's kind of funny...For those of you who know me, you know that I am a pharmaceutical research scientist and hold quite a few patents which makes me an inventor as well. I got to thinking about that recently. Hmmmmm...How's this for a dose of reality: I'm an inventor ....that owns a Delorean .....and builds Flux Capacitors...OMG.:eek7:

Thanks,
Sal





Everyone...It's been a long wait but the circuit boards I ordered finally showed up! They were delayed because this is their busy time of year but they are finally here so I can finish these units up and get them out to you. I will be assembling them as quick as I can so don't worry...they are coming! Anyway, I read a few of the posts and I am aware of your concerns. I've been making accessories for the Delorean community for a very long time and I haven't disappointed anyone yet. They're a little late (No surprise there) but I'm doing my best to get them to you. (The circuit board delay got me worried for a while there too!!) But they are here and all have been tested and they are all working. I also ordered a few extra just in case. So stay tuned.....I didn't forget about you.

Oh yeah, I really would love to see that autographed unit from the Doc!
Sal

[DMC5180]

Thanks for the update DOC :histerical1:

[sphiend]

So should we expect a PM or something when our unit ships? Just would hate If it was shipped but did not arrive (stolen, etc) but I didn't even know it was missing.

[SIMid]

Sal, I had an issue with mine over the weekend, when the glass face came apart. I fixed it with some timber screws, with pilot holes to keep it together. You may want to add some adhesive or something for longevity. I think James's partner's one she got off you also came apart.

[Steelwings]

Sal, I had an issue with mine over the weekend, when the glass face came apart. I fixed it with some timber screws, with pilot holes to keep it together. You may want to add some adhesive or something for longevity. I think James's partner's one she got off you also came apart.

EVERYBODY:

Sorry for the looooooong wait but they are now finished. I got way more orders than anticipated and subsequently bit off more than I could chew. (Again) Anyway, they are done and everyone should receive their door over the next week or so. As for the window issue, I am using a new adhesive to correct this rather than the nail gun brads this time around. I tried to make these so they could be taken apart in the event they need repair or the plastic crazes over time. This new assembly method should resolve this issue along with some other very minor design changes to make them even more durable. I did make a couple of extra "standard" units that are ready to ship if anyone wants one. I only have a couple so speak up now. I am offering them here before I post them on eBay.
Again, please accept my apology for such a long delay.
Sal

ps
There will NOT be another production run so this is it. Seriously...No more. I've had it.:)




Sal, I had an issue with mine over the weekend, when the glass face came apart. I fixed it with some timber screws, with pilot holes to keep it together. You may want to add some adhesive or something for longevity. I think James's partner's one she got off you also came apart.

[Tamir A.]

Fantastic! I've been waiting for this update Sal, very excited to get the flux door. :headbang:

Tamir

[dvonk]

awesome news, i was wondering about these a couple days ago. thanks Sal! :thumbup:

[Notifier]

There will NOT be another production run so this is it. Seriously...No more. I've had it.:)

Hey Sal, I need a couple dozen more! You'll take care of that, right? :hysterical:

Just kidding! But seriously, to anyone who has ordered these they are well worth the wait. Sal did a great job. More than happy with mine and looks great in the car.

[sphiend]

EVERYBODY:

Sorry for the looooooong wait but they are now finished. I got way more orders than anticipated and subsequently bit off more than I could chew. (Again) Anyway, they are done and everyone should receive their door over the next week or so. As for the window issue, I am using a new adhesive to correct this rather than the nail gun brads this time around. I tried to make these so they could be taken apart in the event they need repair or the plastic crazes over time. This new assembly method should resolve this issue along with some other very minor design changes to make them even more durable. I did make a couple of extra "standard" units that are ready to ship if anyone wants one. I only have a couple so speak up now. I am offering them here before I post them on eBay.
Again, please accept my apology for such a long delay.
Sal

ps
There will NOT be another production run so this is it. Seriously...No more. I've had it.:)

Awesome. Congrats! Looking forward to Getting mine installed.

[dvonk]

i look forward to having mine sit on my book shelf... :lol:

[sphiend]

Anyone received theirs yet?

[Chris 16409]

Glad to hear they're done. Now I can start getting antsy!

[sphiend]

Glad to hear they're done. Now I can start getting antsy!

It's been a couple of weeks since Sals last post that Indicated they should arrive in a week or so. Thus my curiosity about if anyone had received theirs yet.

[ovrkil112]

It's been a couple of weeks since Sals last post that Indicated they should arrive in a week or so. Thus my curiosity about if anyone had received theirs yet.

sphiend,
ordered mine jan 3 and still nothing yet.........I'll post when it comes.

[dvonk]

ordered mine jan 3 and still nothing yet.........I'll post when it comes.

im surprised you were able to get your order in so late. i ordered mine on August 15th; i think most orders were placed around then.

[DMC5180]

Give it a little more time. Life a has funny way of interfering with the best intentions. I'm waiting for one myself.

[dvonk]

indeed. from what ive heard, Sal's quality and attention to detail make it well worth the wait. :smile:

[sphiend]

EVERYBODY:

Sorry for the looooooong wait but they are now finished. I got way more orders than anticipated and subsequently bit off more than I could chew. (Again) Anyway, they are done and everyone should receive their door over the next week or so. As for the window issue, I am using a new adhesive to correct this rather than the nail gun brads this time around. I tried to make these so they could be taken apart in the event they need repair or the plastic crazes over time. This new assembly method should resolve this issue along with some other very minor design changes to make them even more durable. I did make a couple of extra "standard" units that are ready to ship if anyone wants one. I only have a couple so speak up now. I am offering them here before I post them on eBay.
Again, please accept my apology for such a long delay.
Sal

ps
There will NOT be another production run so this is it. Seriously...No more. I've had it.:)

Sal,

When should we expect delivery? Still have not seen anything.

[Tillsy]

Sal,

When should we expect delivery? Still have not seen anything.

From correspondence I've had with him he has been incredibly snowed under with this and other stuff, and as of last week was processing another 30 of them, so they are progressing along.

[Hank]

I ordered my on 8/18/2011... just got it today!

Nice work, Sal.. thanks!

I had no idea what I ordered.. but the return address name was familiar.. it was like opening a present -- I had no idea what was inside!

[dvonk]

I ordered my on 8/18/2011... just got it today!

anyone else get theirs yet? hank seems to be the only one so far.

[Lenny]

I was hoping to get mine before DCS

[Tamir A.]

I also got mine last week! Had no idea what it was until I saw Sal's name on return tag. Quality is fantastic, and looks great in the car. Big thanks!

T.

[dvonk]

anyone get an early christmas present from Sal yet? ;)

[Chris 16409]

Anyone else get their's yet?

[Lenny]

Not me, I thought they were done and getting ready to be mailed.

[ovrkil112]

Nothing yet here either.......

[bruscreen]

Mine just arrived! :giddy: Very impressed. Comes with batteries and everything... Only thing missing is a knob for the frequency control, if I can't find something to fit in there I'll just carry a small screwdriver in the storage compartment.

[dvonk]

mine arrived today as well, i like it! :biggrin:

unfortunately the post office decided to slam the box around a bit (it was a bit smashed), and the glue joining the front and back pieces separated. :mad: luckily, nothing was actually damaged, and i can re-glue it myself. :wink:

[Lenny]

My wife called and said I have a package, I'm out of town. I told her to open it. YOU ARE SO STUPID!!!!:smashfreak:

so I guess mine came in

[sphiend]

mine arrived today as well, i like it! :biggrin:

unfortunately the post office decided to slam the box around a bit (it was a bit smashed), and the glue joining the front and back pieces separated. :mad: luckily, nothing was actually damaged, and i can re-glue it myself. :wink:

Mine was the same way. (though the box looked fine) I ended up having to reinforce the corners with epoxy and used wood screws to hold it together. Sadly, mine also came with one of the three light bars having a somewhat greenish tint. Still like it though.

[Chris 16409]

Got mine as well. The post office seemed to be kind to my box. I had mine made without the hole for the lock. I like how the "Shield eyes from light" is actually etched into the plastic.

[Lenny]

My wife called and said I have a package, I'm out of town and I told her to open it. YOU ARE SO STUPID!!!!:smashfreak:

So I guess mine came in

I just got home and saw mine. the box was trashed but the Flux Capacitor was fine no problems at all.

Now I can shut the people up when they look at the car.

[ovrkil112]

Received mine today too........Already have it installed....... I rewired the On/off switch in the back to a delorean switch next to the power window control. Now I can turn it on without having to open up the compartment. (Its running off the included battery, not the car battery)
Thank You Sal!

11852


11853

[DMC5180]

Got mine Yesterday:yesss:

[Tillsy]

Mine reached Australian customs a few weeks ago but had been stuck there since - they were probably worried whether it really could processes 1.21GW of electricity :lol:

The tracking for my package updated on Friday to show it is now on-route for delivery so I should finally have it in another day or two!

[DMC5180]

I just took mine out of the box today. WOW talk about nice craftsmen ship. No wonder these took awhile to get. I ordered mine W/O the lock hole and metal tabs. (it still fits nicely in the cubby opening though) I plan to put it up on the back wall and eventually wire it to come on with the Door Open. I'll probably use the currently disconnected Key buzzer switch.

[Tillsy]

eventually wire it to come on with the Door Open. I'll probably use the currently disconnected Key buzzer switch.
Snap! That is my (eventual) plan too ;)

[Hank]

Thread bump!!

I recently sold my Delorean (Vin 1619) and still have my awesome Steelwings Flux Capacitor Door. But I'm not selling it.

I have the version with the lock cylinder cutout and the tabs on the bottom to fit into the cubby.

I was wondering if there's anyone here who would like to do a simple 1-for-1 trade for the version without the hole and tabs?

I want to hang mine up or put it in a different car, so the hole just doesn't look great (the tabs I can remove).

My unit is in almost-new condition and I'm looking for the same.

[StainlessSteelDream]

Hey Guys,

Wonder if anyone has had any issues with their doors? (I emailed Sal/Steelwings, but not sure how active he is anymore, so thought I'd post here)

I turned it on at a local car show, and noticed it no longer pulses.

I checked the battery, and used a fresh one, and I notice if I turn the switch on/and off I can light up each set of light in succession, but if I leave the switch it, it sits with just one set of lights on. I tried adjusting the frequency knob, but no change either.

Any thoughts?

[Hank]

Hey Guys,

Wonder if anyone has had any issues with their doors? (I emailed Sal/Steelwings, but not sure how active he is anymore, so thought I'd post here)

I turned it on at a local car show, and noticed it no longer pulses.

I checked the battery, and used a fresh one, and I notice if I turn the switch on/and off I can light up each set of light in succession, but if I leave the switch it, it sits with just one set of lights on. I tried adjusting the frequency knob, but no change either.

Any thoughts?

I had this problem due to connecting up a power supply with reverse polarity. It's probably pretty easy to fix. There are two chips on the circuit board, a 555 timer (which likely died) and a decade counter (possibly blown). I was able to buy the replacement LED counter kit Sal used to build the Flux Capacitor which included both ICs. I replaced both, and it was fixed. Very easy. That is, once you get the box apart. That was more challenging, since I had to peel back the felt and pry apart the back panel from the read section to get to the guts inside.

Sal told me this:


The actual back panel is only about 1/4” thick. (even though the back looks like one piece) The seem is hidden by the black felt. If you get a knife and find the seam, you should be able to pry it open with no damage. it is only wire-tacked on and may have just a little hot glue

It's one really well made piece! Once I got it apart and replaced the ICs, I had to glue the felt back in place with rubber cement, and then glue the front panel to the back (I used superglue, but it looks like Sal used a hot glue gun, which I didn't have). I guess in trying to take it apart I did separate the front window section from the rear section, but I'm not sure that's necessary.

While I was in there, I installed a DC power socket (the barrel kind) in the back panel and got the matching plug, so I could power it with an external source and not just the internal battery. Sal says it will work on 6v to 12v.. I run it in my car with 13.8 volts and it works great.

I ended up buying an second LED counter kit by accident, which I still have here unopened, which includes the two ICs and all the other parts too. If you want the new kit, you can have it for $12 via paypal (incl USPS shipping), and I can send it to you.

Oops.. edit to add: I see you're in Canada.. not sure how much shipping would be (I assumed $5).

[StainlessSteelDream]

I had this problem due to connecting up a power supply with reverse polarity. It's probably pretty easy to fix. There are two chips on the circuit board, a 555 timer (which likely died) and a decade counter (possibly blown). I was able to buy the replacement LED counter kit Sal used to build the Flux Capacitor which included both ICs. I replaced both, and it was fixed. Very easy. That is, once you get the box apart. That was more challenging, since I had to peel back the felt and pry apart the back panel from the read section to get to the guts inside.

I got lucky, my version the back panel is held on by 5 screws, so already had a peak at the circuits inside.




I ended up buying an second LED counter kit by accident, which I still have here unopened, which includes the two ICs and all the other parts too. If you want the new kit, you can have it for $12 via paypal (incl USPS shipping), and I can send it to you.
Oops.. edit to add: I see you're in Canada.. not sure how much shipping would be (I assumed $5).

Are you going to be at DCS this year? Might be easiest to just buy if from you there.

[Hank]

I got lucky, my version the back panel is held on by 5 screws, so already had a peak at the circuits inside.




Are you going to be at DCS this year? Might be easiest to just buy if from you there.

Lucky you had screws!

Yeah, I'll be at DCS, I'll bring it along.

[Tillsy]

Sal says it will work on 6v to 12v.

Doh, wish I knew that - I made up and installed a regulator in mine to keep it at 9v before wiring it direct into to driver's door circuit (so that it automatically runs whenever the door is open - the on,y time it is visible anyway).

[Hank]

Doh, wish I knew that - I made up and installed a regulator in mine to keep it at 9v before wiring it direct into to driver's door circuit (so that it automatically runs whenever the door is open - the on,y time it is visible anyway).

I can tell you, the LEDs are a lot brighter at 12v(13.8) than at 9v!!

[Hank]

By the way, since I sold my Delorean, I re-purposed my Flux Capacitor door for my new car:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhOlzTk0hVo

Also, my new matching license plate:

Gas? Where we're going, we don't need "gas".

http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49442&d=1400291543

Yes, we will be at DCS.

[Timebender]

Can you share the design/plans so those of us who missed this and are electronically adept can make this ourselves? I'd even try to make smaller version for my motorcycle.

[Hank]

I didn't design it, so I don't have any plans. I know Sal put A LOT of time into cutting all the fabricated the wood and glass pieces.. it seems so simple, but there are a lot of pieces not just the electronic parts. In terms of electronic design, it's an LED decade counter rigged up with the three chase lights in parallel. It's all hand wired and soldered.

[Timebender]

Thanks Hank.

[Tomcio]

The circuit needed for the operation of the flux capacitor is fairly simple. Here's one that will work just fine. It uses a 555 timer and a counter. Small transistors are used to provide enough current to drive LEDs. If you want to be able to change the speed of "fluxing" you can replace the 47k resistor with a lower value one plus a potentiometer. You can use something like 33k resistor and something around 30k for the pot.
27716

[Timebender]

Excellent! I'm considering an arduino with accelerometer as well so it speeds up if I hit 88. Or maybe gradual speed up too.

[DeLorean03]

The circuit needed for the operation of the flux capacitor is fairly simple. Here's one that will work just fine. It uses a 555 timer and a counter. Small transistors are used to provide enough current to drive LEDs. If you want to be able to change the speed of "fluxing" you can replace the 47k resistor with a lower value one plus a potentiometer. You can use something like 33k resistor and something around 30k for the pot.
27716

Thank you so much for providing this circuit! I have a dead Diamond Select FC, and I was wondering what the circuit values were so I can use the burned out FC to house a new circuit in!

[Tomcio]

Thank you so much for providing this circuit!

No problem ;) You're welcome.

For some reason the picture came out smaller when uploaded to the forum. I clicked on original size but it is still smaller and the description below the circuit is barely readable. It's actually very clear on my gif so if anyone has trouble reading it or any values in the schematic I can try and do something about it.

[nkemp]

How many triplets of LEDs are you driving? the circuit shown will cycle through a 10 count. So if LEDs 1, 2, 3 & 4 are used on the "flux board" then there is a long wait as it counts to 10 & resets to 1 again. As I recall, the IC can use one of the outputs to reset after x number of count (such as #5).

Here is a picture from a website no longer available that is set for 3 triplets of LEDs

27734

And it turns out that picture is small also... Hmmm.

[Tomcio]

How many triplets of LEDs are you driving? the circuit shown will cycle through a 10 count. So if LEDs 1, 2, 3 & 4 are used on the "flux board" then there is a long wait as it counts to 10 & resets to 1 again. As I recall, the IC can use one of the outputs to reset after x number of count (such as #5).

You can use any number of LEDs and you don't have to wait for the counter to go to 10. You can wire it so it resets after the last LED and starts over. You can also use more than 10 if you add another counter. The instructions on how to do that are in the text below the schematic. It goes like this:
The circuit may be configured for counts less that 10 by connecting RESET to an output pin one above the desired count. Thus, a five channel sequencer could be made by connecting pin 1 to pin 15. Remember that pin 15 cannot be connected to ground in that case.
In that case you only install five transistors and five LEDs and run a wire straight from pin 1 to pin 15 instead of running it to base of transistor number 6.
This circuit is designed to run on 5V and I recommend using a 7805 voltage regulator. This will allow you to connect it directly to the car's electrical system and you don't have to worry about voltage spikes. Even starting the engine will not cause the LEDs to dim or to slow down the "fluxing".

For good results I recommend using multi-chip LEDs. My favorite kind is super flux LEDs with 4 pins. They are available in 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 chip flavors with each chip requiring 20mA. If you use anything more than 3 chip you will need to use larger transistors. If you want your flux capacitor to be blindingly bright use BD135 for the transistor and go with 6 chip super flux LEDs. Calculate the current limiting resistor for 6x20mA = 120mA. The 120R resistor is calculated to provide about 20mA of current to the LEDs. You can also install a potentiometer here along with a fixed resistor and that will let you change the brightness of the LEDs. Keep in mind that the resistor cannot be less than the maximum current of the LED. A pot will then allow dimming of the LEDs. Cool, isn't it ;)
Parallel connection of separate LEDs is not recommended. Series connection will not work as white LEDs need about 3.1V and this circuit without changes will provide up to 5V. The best choice is to run multi-chip LEDs.

Let me fix the resolution so the picture is actually readable.
27744

[nkemp]

Now that I can read the text I see that it discusses the reset pin and counting to less than ten. Thanks for clarifying.

[SS Spoiler]

Wonder what the average IQ is of DeLorean owners?

[nkemp]

wwhhaaaat?

Tomcio's circuit lights each LED in order starting at 1 and proceeding to 10 (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,1,2,3,4 ,5,6,7,8,9,10, and so on).

Most FC's have 3 LEDs (some have 4 with a center LED) and as such you do not want the circuit to count to 10 but only count to 3 (or 4). If you want it to only turn on/off LEDs 1, 2 & 3 you tie the pin for LED 4 to reset and then it cycles 1,2,3,1,2,3,1,2,3 and so on.

If you did not tie pin 4 to reset and only connected to LEDs 1, 2 and 3 then it would cycle 1, 2, 3, , , , , , , , 1, 2, 3, , , , , , , ,1, 2, 3, , , , , , , , where no LEDs were lit in the blanks and that is not how the FC operates (it screws with the flux time constants and may result in inaccurate temporal displacement.

[Timebender]

As cool as these are, and Flux Capacitors in general, I'm kind of surprised no one has built their own that would seem more realistic using today's LED technology, with maybe a string of flat low profile LED's that would simulate plasma or energy pulsing through the tubes vs. the on off on off tech of the 80's. I know the desire to be movie accurate (My R2-D2 is and approved by Lucas/Disney for official events, etc.), but how cool would it look if it seemed like real energy was flowing down each tube?

[Hank]

Here's the pre-made kit that Sal used: http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/FK115

It's also a 555 and 4017 counter.

He wired it up so three LEDs in each "band" light together, and I think he has four bands.

And I've discovered that this circuit works down to 3.5 volts, and up to 13.8 volts, but the LEDs to get quite dim at 3.5 volts.

[David R]

Hank, thanks for posting that kit! What a cheap and easy way to get a flux lighting circuit. Does using only 3 bands of LEDs work on the same principle as Tomico's circuit, connecting the would-be 4th LED's lead to a reset pin?

[Hank]

Hank, thanks for posting that kit! What a cheap and easy way to get a flux lighting circuit. Does using only 3 bands of LEDs work on the same principle as Tomico's circuit, connecting the would-be 4th LED's lead to a reset pin?

Before I put my FC back together, I did take some photos of the circuit board and how the LEDs are wired.. I'll try to find them and post them later today.

I know Sal said he did make some mods to the circuit board, but was not specific.

[Hank]

I also have a second LED kit I posted above, just without the ICs (I harvested them from the kit to replace mine). If someone wants it (i.e. bring your own 555 and 4017 ICs), you can paypal me $10 (including US shipping). The kit actually might have a good 4017, since only the 555 timer was blown on my board, but I'd have to look and let you know.

[Mark D]

As cool as these are, and Flux Capacitors in general, I'm kind of surprised no one has built their own that would seem more realistic using today's LED technology, with maybe a string of flat low profile LED's that would simulate plasma or energy pulsing through the tubes vs. the on off on off tech of the 80's. I know the desire to be movie accurate (My R2-D2 is and approved by Lucas/Disney for official events, etc.), but how cool would it look if it seemed like real energy was flowing down each tube?

The real flux capacitors built for the screen used cars look pretty realistic (if you can call it that) compared to a lot of the knock offs like the diamond select and some of the other high dollar replicas. The sides of the plexi diffusers are not supposed to be visible like on the DS replicas...the intention of the diffuser on the real flux was to make it look like the glass relay tube itself was lighting up. There was no way to drill into a glass tube and install lights without shattering it so they built a frosted light bar below it to give the illusion it was lighting up.

There are few different other variables that go into making the effect look real...the number of lights and spacing between is critical, as is the flashing rate to make the motion of the lights appear seamless. When done up like the screen used flux capacitor a replica can look just as good.

[Farrar]

(My R2-D2 is and approved by Lucas/Disney for official events,

You should add some CGI to it and re-release it as a Special Edition. Get more money for your appearances at events. :)

[Basunfan]

Maybe im sleeping in the Class. :-) But you still making any more?
And if I need shipping tax to Denmark Europe

Thank you

[DMC5180]

He is done making them. If you want one I would suggest you place a Request in the WANTED section and do this on the other Delorean Forums. You never know when someone might what to sell there's.

[Basunfan]

He is done making them. If you want one I would suggest you place a Request in the WANTED section and do this on the other Delorean Forums. You never know when someone might what to sell there's.

Okay :-( thank you very much