New Member silly question

[NewtoDMCRob]

hello all,

This si my first posting here on this forum. I have been inlace with the Delorean since I was a child and now have the amazing opportunity to purchase a 1981 from a second owner. It has about 32000 miles on it, almost all of them put on by the first owner and over the last 10 years the second owner put on about 400 miles. It has been driven a few times a month for short distances. The deal is amazing and I am very lucky to have this opportunity to purchase my dream car.

My questions are:
1 what problems may I be getting into?
2 I hear about epoxy coated frames needing repair about now. Is this very expensive and can it be done by myself?
3 would I be better off buying the parts new and building it piece by piece?
4 how much would #3 cost?

i know I may have opened a can of worms here or that the answers may be scattered all over this forum, so please be a gentile as possible. And thank you for having me as part of the community

Robert

[Soundkillr]

I'm going to move this to general discussion. I think you will get more responses there. I will say this for now: skip 3 and 4, don't even make that an option.
The epoxy re coat or touch up, can be no big deal, or it can be major. Main things to look out for are rust. If the frame is rusted badly, be prepared to get in deep. You will get a lot of good advice here, and welcome to the forum.

[NewtoDMCRob]

very cool! Thank you!

[DMC-81]

Welcome Robert! Congrats on considering a Delorean.

As mentioned, frame repair can be all over the map. Try to get it on a lift and thoroughly inspect the frame. Even if it looks good, look for areas where the epoxy coating has cracked. More often than not, the metal underneath it is somewhere between rusty and rotten.

I assume it is running. How does it sound? You'll want to check for any fluid leaks.

As for what you can expect, it really depends on how the car was maintained and stored. Any work receipts are great to look at. Still, it is a 34 year old car that will need a fair amount of attention.

Any pictures that you can post will help assess the condition.

Cheers,

[NewtoDMCRob]

I am told the car is in amazing condition. interior and exterior are near perfect. Runs great but... "once shut off it seems like the engine floods a little" Was told by a mechanic that "some modulator that needs to be replaced would fix this issue.
He has a 3 book document that has all the exploded parts and replacement procedures that he believes came with the car. His mechanic has used them to diagnose the problem. Thoughts?

And am I hearing that this Epoxy frame issue WILL have rust? Or is that a worst case situation? The car has always been garaged and homed here in California, not near the coast, but in the mountains.

Thoughts?

By the way, its an automatic and I was told that the original owner told him to shift it like it was a manual. Is this correct or an indication of a problem? Whats the cost to switch it to a manual?

[David T]

I am told the car is in amazing condition. interior and exterior are near perfect. Runs great but... "once shut off it seems like the engine floods a little" Was told by a mechanic that "some modulator that needs to be replaced would fix this issue.
He has a 3 book document that has all the exploded parts and replacement procedures that he believes came with the car. His mechanic has used them to diagnose the problem. Thoughts?

And am I hearing that this Epoxy frame issue WILL have rust? Or is that a worst case situation? The car has always been garaged and homed here in California, not near the coast, but in the mountains.

Thoughts?

By the way, its an automatic and I was told that the original owner told him to shift it like it was a manual. Is this correct or an indication of a problem? Whats the cost to switch it to a manual?

Sounds like all of the typical problems of a car that has not been used a lot. The frame can be repaired (if necessary), the shift computer for the transmission can be repaired or replaced, the accumulator, once replaced, will fix the hard hot restart problem. I suggest you start by replacing ALL of the fluids and filters. Check the date code on the tires. If older than 7 years replace them. Empty the fuel tank and scrub it out with Acetone and replace any rubber parts that look deteriorated.

[sdg3205]

I would take what you have been "told" with a grain of salt. Unless it came from a reputable source or vendor, just be cautious. I've been told great things about nasty turds. My last project car was running "better than ever" when I picked it up. Didn't even make it 5 minutes before a breakdown.

As previously said, get the car up on a lift and inspect. Take lots of pictures for us. We can help point out problem areas. If the car is covered with a black undercoat, it could be a bit trickier but we will cross that bridge if and when we get there. Original automatic shift computers are problematic, but shifting it like a manual would not overcome the inherent issues with the governor.

The car probably isn't flooding when it is shut off. Sounds like a hot start issue to me. Again, we will cross that bridge when we get there.

Snap some pics, like LOTS of them. Inside and out. Let's see where we are at.

Welcome!

[NewtoDMCRob]

God I love you guys already!

Now tips for getting my wife to prove of this decision? already tried the "its a great investment" route. I'm getting for under 20k so thats got to be good right?

Any of you want Hang gliding lessons for cheap? look me up and let me know you are a DeLorean owner!
EastBayHangGliding.com!

[Rich]

God I love you guys already!

Now tips for getting my wife to prove of this decision? already tried the "its a great investment" route. I'm getting for under 20k so thats got to be good right?

Any of you want Hang gliding lessons for cheap? look me up and let me know you are a DeLorean owner!
EastBayHangGliding.com!

Depending on where this car is we might find somebody who can check it out. I'm here in the Bay Area like you.

A California D that's never lived in salty-road lands typically has little or no significant rust, nothing that will chase a buyer away. It doesn't mean your target car is problem free in that department it just a good sign.

A 20K car can be a great deal or it can be a money pit. Ideally this target car has always had its fluids changed on time and was never stored for more than a couple of months.

If you still have time then be sure to read James Espey's book, the buyer's guide.

Don't plan to change the tranny. Buy a D with the transmission you like in it. There are plenty of each kind out there. Be sure the transmission works properly or lower your offer. For $20K the transmission should work.

Like David T said, the "flooded" problem likely has an easy fix at <$300 with labor.

Let us know how your search goes.

[cpistocco]

I have a hot start issue as well. Is there a way to determine whether it is the accumulator, or the "o" ring in the throttle plate area? I have heard that those are the 2 main culprits.
Thanks
Charlie

[sdg3205]

you have to apply a vacuum to the backside (single nipple side) of the accumulator to see if it holds vacuum or sucks gas through the diaphragm.

whats your email charlie? ill send you a pdf.

[Bitsyncmaster]

you have to apply a vacuum to the backside (single nipple side) of the accumulator to see if it holds vacuum or sucks gas through the diaphragm.

whats your email charlie? ill send you a pdf.

That would probably be a good test but maybe better to just run the pump a little and then leave that hose in a jar to watch for any gas. But if you've got and original accumulator, replace it with a new built unit.

It would be interesting to know how many are still running with the original.

[David T]

To fix the hard hot restart first you verify the problem by trying to restart hot and then do the "plug swap". If that gets you going you replace the accumulator. If that doesn't do it you replace the check valve on the fuel pump. If that doesn't do it you rebuild the PPR on the F/D. I would not worry about that yet. Replace all of the fluids and filters and get the transmission fixed first. You can always get yourself going with the plug swap, it may not be convenient but it should work. As for the wife problem, join the local group and go to an event. Get the car all shiny and cleaned up. Let her drive it.

[Bitsyncmaster]

To fix the hard hot restart first you verify the problem by trying to restart hot and then do the "plug swap". If that gets you going you replace the accumulator. If that doesn't do it you replace the check valve on the fuel pump. If that doesn't do it you rebuild the PPR on the F/D. I would not worry about that yet. Replace all of the fluids and filters and get the transmission fixed first. You can always get yourself going with the plug swap, it may not be convenient but it should work. As for the wife problem, join the local group and go to an event. Get the car all shiny and cleaned up. Let her drive it.

How does your test determine the accumulator or check valve is the problem?

[David T]

How does your test determine the accumulator or check valve is the problem?


One way to determine if the check valve is the problem is to temporarily crimp the feed hose to the tank right after you shut the motor off after it is good and hot. Wait 10 minutes, undo the crimp, and try restarting. If it starts right up the check valve is bad and if doesn't it is probably the accumulator.

[Farrar]

already tried the "its a great investment" route.

It isn't. DeLoreans don't appreciate in value unless you drop a ton of money in them, and then you don't get your money back.

You bought a DeLorean for the joy of owning and driving a DeLorean. There's no other car like it. Ever. Period. Never will be. This is a lifetime's opportunity. Isn't that worth it?

Welcome to DMCTalk. :)

[mluder]

It isn't. DeLoreans don't appreciate in value unless you drop a ton of money in them, and then you don't get your money back.

You bought a DeLorean for the joy of owning and driving a DeLorean. There's no other car like it. Ever. Period. Never will be. This is a lifetime's opportunity. Isn't that worth it?

Welcome to DMCTalk. :)

I don't think I'd be that harsh... They at least HOLD their value. Personally I've found even modest investments of time and money can make decent increases in value. I spent one winter completely disassembling the major engine components, cleaning everything, and painting parts and the engine bay itself. My engine went from looking like a 30 year old engine to looking nearly brand new. If that doesn't add to it's resale value I'd be really surprised. Not that I'm ever going to sell.

Cheers
Steven

[Bitsyncmaster]

I bought my car 8 years ago just planning I could enjoy the car and when I sell it get back what I paid.

Well I have probably sunk $5,000 in improvement parts into the car and I still think I could break even or better.

I think most of the owners that buy an average running car and do there own work will work out the same.

[NewtoDMCRob]

who do you guys use for insurance? my normal insurance told me about Hagerty. for $30,000 coverage it was 390 a year. how about you guys?

[bytes311]

who do you guys use for insurance? my normal insurance told me about Hagerty. for $30,000 coverage it was 390 a year. how about you guys?

I'm with American Collectors with an agreed value of $25k. I can drive basically whenever I want and I pay an annual premium of $235.75.

[cpistocco]

you have to apply a vacuum to the backside (single nipple side) of the accumulator to see if it holds vacuum or sucks gas through the diaphragm.

whats your email charlie? ill send you a pdf.

Hi Dave.
My email is [email protected]
Thanks for everything
Charlie
ps.... 205/70/14 bf ta :)

[cpistocco]

To fix the hard hot restart first you verify the problem by trying to restart hot and then do the "plug swap". If that gets you going you replace the accumulator. If that doesn't do it you replace the check valve on the fuel pump. If that doesn't do it you rebuild the PPR on the F/D. I would not worry about that yet. Replace all of the fluids and filters and get the transmission fixed first. You can always get yourself going with the plug swap, it may not be convenient but it should work. As for the wife problem, join the local group and go to an event. Get the car all shiny and cleaned up. Let her drive it.

OK Thanks.!! :>) BTW...what is the "plug swap"?

[sdg3205]

Swap the blue cold start plug with the grey wur plug on start up then swap back once the car is running

[cpistocco]

Swap the blue cold start plug with the grey wur plug on start up then swap back once the car is running

Thanks again.... I knew that in the back of my mind!!!

[sdg3205]

You're powering the csv to get by the lack of rest pressure. It will keep firing until you swap it back.

[Rich]

Depending on your annual mileage estimate you might get it lower than that with them. It depends on a few factors. I've used Hagerty for ~10yrs on this car. Hagerty's rules are fairly standard.


who do you guys use for insurance? my normal insurance told me about Hagerty. for $30,000 coverage it was 390 a year. how about you guys?

[cpistocco]

Can anyone on the forum suggest a top of the line fuel accumulator? I don't want to have to do this again in 3 years !!! :)

[Bitsyncmaster]

Can anyone on the forum suggest a top of the line fuel accumulator? I don't want to have to do this again in 3 years !!! :)

You want a new built unit, not NOS. The vendors have a smaller unit and some have the original size unit for more money. I would guess the smaller unit would not hold rest pressure as long as the larger unit.

[cpistocco]

You want a new built unit, not NOS. The vendors have a smaller unit and some have the original size unit for more money. I would guess the smaller unit would not hold rest pressure as long as the larger unit.

Thanks a million--- You guys are all very kind and generous with your time. Much appreciated!

[axh174]

If you're interested in using the larger, original-style fuel accumulator unit (but newly manufactured), the BOSCH part number is 438170029. I recently picked one up from amazon, but you can find it in a variety of places.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

If you're interested in using the larger, original-style fuel accumulator unit (but newly manufactured), the BOSCH part number is 438170029. I recently picked one up from amazon, but you can find it in a variety of places.

We have those in stock for $179.95 if anyone is interested.
Rob

[cpistocco]

It would appear that the new accumulator cured my hot start issue too..... But now I seem to have picked up a new problem: My fuel pump is howling like a banshee. I never could hear the pump run before the accumulator change. Could it be the increase in fuel pressure? I don't like the sound of it at all.

[Bitsyncmaster]

It would appear that the new accumulator cured my hot start issue too..... But now I seem to have picked up a new problem: My fuel pump is howling like a banshee. I never could hear the pump run before the accumulator change. Could it be the increase in fuel pressure? I don't like the sound of it at all.

Most common failure of the accumulator is a slight leak of fuel over time into the drain line. That would not effect your fuel pressures. Now if your bad accumulator had a bad rupture of the diaphragm then it probably would increase your pressures with the new unit.

You should be able to hear the fuel pump when it "primes" the system but not hear the pump running when the engine is running. Normally the hot fuel buzz that happens is only after a long drive in the hot summer months.

[Jonathan]

It would appear that the new accumulator cured my hot start issue too..... But now I seem to have picked up a new problem: My fuel pump is howling like a banshee. I never could hear the pump run before the accumulator change. Could it be the increase in fuel pressure? I don't like the sound of it at all.

Maybe something got introduced into the system when you opened up the lines to replace the accumulator, and that piece of crud or whatever is now blocking the suction of the pump?

I would start by gently lifting the fuel pump up slightly and inspecting it. That hollowing sound could be the pump getting starved.

How does the car itself run now with this new accumulator? You mentioned it solved the hot start problem, but does it idle well and feel like it has the normal power it should? If the pump is either getting starved or the discharge side is constricted in some way, you'd expect to see it at the engine with some symptom of not getting enough fuel (volume or pressure).

[PJ Grady Inc.]

It would appear that the new accumulator cured my hot start issue too..... But now I seem to have picked up a new problem: My fuel pump is howling like a banshee. I never could hear the pump run before the accumulator change. Could it be the increase in fuel pressure? I don't like the sound of it at all.
If you changed the hoses as well (recommended) did you remove the upper H.P. hose fuel fitting? You must support the 90 degree fuel fitting when doing so or risk kinking the line which could cause a restriction and therefore a whine. If you did that you won't want to hear what the safe solution would be!
Rob