Garage Lift?

[JAC]

So...

I finally will have the funds to find myself a car sometime this month. (Sold Griff's BMW from BTTF2 at the WGB event).

Now, i know that i won't have money for a perfect car, but will be able to get myself a project anyways. No matter, waited long enough to be able to do this. That being said, i'm considering a garage lift. So for those of you who happen to have a lift.. did you go with 2-post, or 4-post? I think the only benefit i could see from a 2-post is if i was to pull the car off the frame for major re-work. Other than that, i'm leaning towards a 4-post.

Thoughts?

[steve]

2 post much easier with any car.

Steve

[JAC]

But how about for storage? Wouldn't it be better to have a 4 post so you can store the car up and park another car under?

[DMCVegas]

Unless you're buying this with exclusive storage in mind, 2 post all the way.

With a 4 post, the vehicle still rests upon it's own wheels instead of the chassis/monocoque frame/underbody. That means that you can't to any of the following types of work on the car or truck with it:


Tire Rotation
Seasonal Tire/Wheel Exchanges
Brakes (pads/rotors/shoes/drums)
Shock Absorbers
Springs
Sway bars
Suspension components (upgrades/modifications)
Differentials
Axles
Live Axle internals

[kenny]

I have a 2 post and agree with everything the other guys have said. I went through the same questions when I was deciding what to get.
4 post if storage is your priority, 2 post if working on the car is.
The 4 post lift is also generally much bigger in footprint

[Lou and "Boo"]

My buddy Tom has a four post which the car drives onto but it has a sliding jack that can lift the car while its up . Did many a job in my Delorean on that lift, as did he and many other club members, Hell, I even had my wife's van and my daily driver ford Escape hybrid on that lift. And no need to get down to find lift support areas . seems very versatile and I think it may be more secure than a two post. on a two post the car is lie teetering up there. I sure wouldn't want to park a car under it or do some torque-y wrench turning while standing under it. I know if I had a garage I'd buy a four post for sure.

[DMCVegas]

Not sure that I'm all that keen on this:

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k522/thstone/SlidingJackStand_zps697b4e58.jpg

The posts themselves, be it 2 or 4, do lock the lifts into place in case of a hydraulic failure. That way the car doesn't come crashing down and kill you. Unless I'm wrong, the sliding jacks don't seem to have that same internal fail-safe capability. So I would still be a bit worried about loosing a hand, but that's just me.

Still though, it does seriously get in the way of performing other tasks. If you have to pull driveshafts, exhaust systems, or axles, those sliding jacks and the platform are gonna be in your way and require lots of manuvering, where the 2 Post lift is completely out of your way. And if you have to jack up something like an Axle on a 2wd or 4x4 truck, it's gonna really suck.

But again, it's really just a question of not only what you're comfortable with, but what your future plans are for it's use. Like me, I'm into trucks and whatnot, so I would really need a 2-post lift. If you do opt for a 4 post, please do yourself and your family a bid favor and get 2 separate sliding jacks.



seems very versatile and I think it may be more secure than a two post. on a two post the car is lie teetering up there. I sure wouldn't want to park a car under it or do some torque-y wrench turning while standing under it. I know if I had a garage I'd buy a four post for sure.

Totally agreed with the exception of the "torque-y wrench turning". If you're using it for storage, 4-Post all the way.

I totally get what you're saying about the whole concerns about torque possibly causing the vehicle to wobble. Now if you're using like a breaker bar or something, absolutely. But if you've got an Impact Wrench, the torque is focused locally and won't move the car like if you're jumping up and down on a breaker bar. Plus of course it makes the job easier, and you don't damage other things. Example: I replaced the rotors on my truck and had to use a breaker bar with a sledge to bust the caliper bolts loose. Which while it did technically work, I banged the wheels so hard that I also had to get an alignment done... So the right tool for the job makes a big difference.

[Soundkillr]

Mine is a pro park 8, and a 4 post. I love this lift. It has a very heavy duty plate that slides between the two tracks that will allow a floor jack so you can place jack stands or whatever for suspension work. I also use it for long term storage and park another car under it. Not sure I could stand the thought of a delorean on a 2 post with all the weight hanging off that glass tub.




My buddy Tom has a four post which the car drives onto but it has a sliding jack that can lift the car while its up . Did many a job in my Delorean on that lift, as did he and many other club members, Hell, I even had my wife's van and my daily driver ford Escape hybrid on that lift. And no need to get down to find lift support areas . seems very versatile and I think it may be more secure than a two post. on a two post the car is lie teetering up there. I sure wouldn't want to park a car under it or do some torque-y wrench turning while standing under it. I know if I had a garage I'd buy a four post for sure.

[tommyrich]

I have to agree with Lou....especially since he is describing my lift. I have had the 4 post lift for about 7 years and I love it. A movable lift jack is a must. Plastic drip trays keep the lower car dry. I had all the same questions before I went with the 4 post, but I liked the fact that it is free standing and can be repositioned if necessary.
¢¢
Tom

[Lou and "Boo"]

Hi Tom ! LOVE YOU MAN!

I'd have to say Tom did damn near everything you could do to a car with that lift. At least two Delorean restorations. One with an engine swap. I think the four post has more possibilities for jobs (like when we did my rear adjustable height shocks and we would just let down the jack to see the height and pump it back up off the wheels to adjust them). I think the four has much more to offer. I wish I had one but it'd be out in the elements in my driveway. Believe me I thought about it even with having it out there, but oh the constant maintenance and lubrication.

[Ras12]

My biggest concern about long term storage when using a 2 post lif is that the car is supported by the underbody and the weight of the engine, trans, suspension, etc is supported by the bolts that goes from the chassis to the underbody. Just a thought.

[David T]

Whatever lift you do buy make sure it is of decent quality. You can see plenty of horror pictures on the internet of lifts that either weren't up to the task or were improperly installed. It is a little less convenient to do suspension work on a 4 post but it IS more stable and better for storage. Also easier to get in and out of the car, the posts aren't in the way. And you can walk around the car even when it is up off the ground and get in and out of it (you just need a ladder).

[DMCMW Dave]

Whatever lift you do buy make sure it is of decent quality. You can see plenty of horror pictures on the internet of lifts that either weren't up to the task or were improperly installed. It is a little less convenient to do suspension work on a 4 post but it IS more stable and better for storage. Also easier to get in and out of the car, the posts aren't in the way. And you can walk around the car even when it is up off the ground and get in and out of it (you just need a ladder).

This is probably an overgeneralization, but the homeowner quality 4-post lifts (anything under about $2500, often NOT bolted to the floor) are pretty much crap. I have one and it's kinda scary. I won't use it for anything but parking cars. "More Stable" is not the phrase that comes to mind. The pictures you see on the internet of failed lifts are almost always cheap "portable" 4-post lifts.

Pro-grade (Rotary, Bend Pak etc.) twin-post lifts are VERY stable, but in general you need a 6-inch thick garage floor to bolt them to. The smallest ones are rated at something like 9000 pounds, and to those a DeLorean is practically no load. Much more expensive though, but if you watch equipment auctions you can often grab one from a car dealer that's moving or closing.

I prefer twin post lift with overhead trolley. The twin-post lifts with equalizer cables on floor make the floor harder to clean. But they can be installed in a garage with a lower ceiling.

[DMCMW Dave]

My biggest concern about long term storage when using a 2 post lif is that the car is supported by the underbody and the weight of the engine, trans, suspension, etc is supported by the bolts that goes from the chassis to the underbody. Just a thought.

Not really an issue. I've parked my personal DeLorean on a 2-post lift for entire winters. I've never seen any ill effects, although I don't suppose I'd leave one hanging like that for decades.

[Nicholas R]

I've done a lot of research on lifts and am also planning to purchase one when I return to the US. I'm probably going to go with the 4 post. I like the idea of being able to move the lift around between garage bays (the removable caster sets for relocation are really cool and clever). Plus I want to be able to store a car. Nearly all 2 post lift manufacturers advise against using 2 post lifts for long term storage. I agree that they're not as convenient for suspension, but most people have said that the sliding jack still makes that pretty nice.

Be aware that all 2 post lifts have concrete requirements; mainly with regard to compressive strength and slab thickness (plus anchor embedment depth.) If you dont know this information about your garage floor, its not something to make assumptions about. Get your building plans, contact your builder, contact your city, get the building code for the year your house was built, drill a test hole, and/or consider having your concrete tested. Be 100% sure you're safe. A lift installer will not install your lift without this information. Sure you can install it yourself, but you should still know this before putting yourself at risk.

This is one small benefit of the 4 post lift; since it doesn't need to be anchored to the ground and is inherently stable on its own, concrete characteristics aren't really a concern. I've seen a 4 post lift used on gravel (not that I recommend it). :wrenchin:

All this being said, if a 2 post is best for you, by all means, get a 2 post. They definitely give far more access for maintenance activities. Plus, body/frame separation? 2 post all the way!

There is also the Max Jack. I actually considered this for a while. I've got a 10ft ceiling so it wasn't because of the low ceiling benefit (works with 8 foot ceiling), but rather for the fact that it was removable. I did think it would be convenient to be able to store it away when not in use. Still, since its pretty much the same price as a 4 post, I figured why not go all out. Down side of a max jack is that it only goes about 4 ft up, but their response to that is that they give you a rolling cart to sit on. Never tried working under a car while sitting but who knows, it might be nice! :biggrin:

Best of luck with whatever you choose!:thumbup:

[DMCMW Dave]

The concrete thing is a huge issue, as Nick alluded very few residential garage floors are poured to the spec needed for a commercial twin post lift. If you are building a new structure you can accommodate it, but for most people the 4-post lifts are the only option, shaky as they are. Just be careful.

One other piece of advice on the 4-post lifts - spring for the 220V motor option and wire a 220 outlet into your garage. 110V lifts are agonizingly slow. You wouldn't think this is a big deal until you use it a few times, then it drives you crazy.

Nick - before you believe "inherently stable", see and shake one in person with a car on it.

[mr_maxime]

Not sure how viable of an alternative it is, but I remember my neighbor in canada having a pit in his garage. He used to build trailers so it let him get under without having to use a lift. Been over 15 years seen I've seen it so I dont remember many of the details, but it might work as a crude way of being able to stand under the car. I think he used to cover it with plywood when not working in it.

[Ryan S.]

Check out this thread.
http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/new-off-topic/46073-best-residential-car-lift.html
37767

[Nicholas R]

Nick - before you believe "inherently stable", see and shake one in person with a car on it.

Thanks for the heads up. This will be new territory for me so I want to be sure to do the research :thumbup:

[David T]

Thanks for the heads up. This will be new territory for me so I want to be sure to do the research :thumbup:

No matter what lift you buy it has to be fastened to the floor. Do not buy a 4 post and think you can roll it around just because they offer some wheels on it. Just about any 4 poster will work on any good, level, well built, concrete floor. Try to buy one with a full closed tube design for each post, not a bent up sheet metal post that is not a closed tube. Each post must have a locking bar. 220 is the way to go but you will need an electrician to wire it up. Figure $2500 and up for new, used can be a lot cheaper if you can find a good one. Back Yard Buddy is one of the better, more expensive ones.

[delgato]

I have a MaxJax and the lift itself works great. In addition to that when not in use it takes up very little space to store it away. This is an excellent product. However, the old crusty cement in my garage is not so good. I was reading about folks that cut and dug out holes in the cement floor to add re-bar, proper anchor set up, and deeper cement under where the posts will sit. I would highly recommend looking into the cement that your garage has before buying anything.

I bought this for the sole purpose of doing a frame off. Since I was lifting just the body and not doing any real work on it, I let it be what it is. I would not feel comfortable lifting the whole car with the cement it currently has. As soon as the frame is done and I put the body back on I plan to sell the lift.

It is my opinion that a lift is a great tool to have but really most all work can be done with a jack and 4 jack stands.

[JAC]

Thanks for the replies, everyone. wasn't expecting this many.

So just a little more info. I don't want a portable lift, it's going to be bolted to the concrete. I'll probably drill a test hole somewhere to measure its thickness. My wife thinks we should go with 4-post. especially since, yes, the car will be stored in the winter, for the most part. She likes the idea of being able to put another car in the garage as well. We have 10' ceilings so a low lift would be needed. I don't mind working on the car sitting on a rolling stool, i've planned for that. I am also aware that there are lifts out there with jack trays that you can put them on as well. I'm not overly worried about that.

I'm glad this thread has helped others as well.

[Chris 16409]

Would anyone be willing to give their opinions on this lift?

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Garage-Pro-8-000

[Soundkillr]

Would anyone be willing to give their opinions on this lift?

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Garage-Pro-8-000
Like I said earlier, this is the lift I have. I LOVE this lift. I've had mine for 6 years with no issues at all.

[novadmc]

garage space in my area is at a premium (at least for houses in my price range). in my next place, i plan on eventually getting a set of these which will be perfect for a 2 car garage where space is limited.
http://www.maxjaxusa.com/

[Chris 16409]

Like I said earlier, this is the lift I have. I LOVE this lift. I've had mine for 6 years with no issues at all.

Great! Can you attest to the assembly process? Did you get someone to install it. I plan to use it to store my DeLorean during the week when I don't drive it.

[David T]

garage space in my area is at a premium (at least for houses in my price range). in my next place, i plan on eventually getting a set of these which will be perfect for a 2 car garage where space is limited.
http://www.maxjaxusa.com/

Make sure the ceiling is high enough and the garage door goes straight up to the ceiling BEFORE it turns and goes horizontal. It is called a "High Lift" track and you will need it for the extra height. Check that the tubes for each post are tubes and not just bent up sheet metal with welded tacks to make it a tube. If you get the wheel kit use it only to move the lift around WITHOUT a car on it. The bottom of the tube (post) should have a plate welded to it at least 1 foot square to distribute the load and it should have a hole in it so you can fasten the lift to the floor. A Delorean is not a heavy car so just about any lift will do but you may want one capable of more if you choose to stick a different car on it for storage or service. If there is an option for something to catch drips down the center it is a good option to have a complete floor or at least drip pans. Shipping is expensive since the parts are large and heavy. You will need at least 1 helper to assemble it.

[Dangermouse]

Not sure how viable of an alternative it is, but I remember my neighbor in canada having a pit in his garage. He used to build trailers so it let him get under without having to use a lift. Been over 15 years seen I've seen it so I dont remember many of the details, but it might work as a crude way of being able to stand under the car. I think he used to cover it with plywood when not working in it.

I think they are pretty difficult to get planning permission for to build in a domestic house, and your insurance co. might take a dim view of them; falls, entrapment, drowning, CO gassing to name a few things.

Plus, they are hard to take with you when you move.

All in all, a bit of PIT-A sorry......:smashfreak:

[novadmc]

Make sure the ceiling is high enough and the garage door goes straight up to the ceiling BEFORE it turns and goes horizontal. It is called a "High Lift" track and you will need it for the extra height. Check that the tubes for each post are tubes and not just bent up sheet metal with welded tacks to make it a tube. If you get the wheel kit use it only to move the lift around WITHOUT a car on it. The bottom of the tube (post) should have a plate welded to it at least 1 foot square to distribute the load and it should have a hole in it so you can fasten the lift to the floor. A Delorean is not a heavy car so just about any lift will do but you may want one capable of more if you choose to stick a different car on it for storage or service. If there is an option for something to catch drips down the center it is a good option to have a complete floor or at least drip pans. Shipping is expensive since the parts are large and heavy. You will need at least 1 helper to assemble it.

all good points and already part of both what i plan to do and what i've been looking at in prospective garages whenever my wife drags me to an open house (last thing you need is raising the car and having it crash into the garage door and door opener)
My current house's garage and garage door simply aren't big enough and I can't wait for the day i dont have to get any of my cars on jack stands and lay on my back with some cardboard.

[Lou and "Boo"]

Look on the bright side, at least you have a garage. It's all laying on the cardboard in the driveway around here.

[DMCVegas]

Look on the bright side, at least you have a garage. It's all laying on the cardboard in the driveway around here.

http://38.media.tumblr.com/a2bdd4fcda4bf7693ab3cf1358559e85/tumblr_inline_nk1njxfWbz1r29fne.gif

[Soundkillr]

Great! Can you attest to the assembly process? Did you get someone to install it. I plan to use it to store my DeLorean during the week when I don't drive it.

I did install it myself. Took about 8 hours, taking my time. The unit is very well made, although the directions could be a little more clear. You could pay someone to install it, but I really think you and someone else could assemble it together. Make sure you get the jack tray as well as the plastic drip trays. They come in very handy.

[Ras12]

I loved the idea (and cars) in photos #1, 2 & 3 so I used my rolling DMC carcus as a "test dummy" inside a friends shop. He plans on adding a few more racks so he can store more cars underneath and double his storage space.

Each pallet rack can handle a min. of 5,600 lbs each with one rack under the front wheel and another rack under the rear wheels. (11,200 lbs total)

Each rack is 56" high by 80" wide and bolted to the floor and rear wall as well as connected to one another with cross braces.

We used a Portable midrise scissor lift to get it up there.

I want to add two of those to my house garage to increase my storage as well.

Who thinks that my friend and I are crazy for trying this?

Be honest, I am a big boy!

[mluder]

I loved the idea (and cars) in photos #1, 2 & 3 so I used my rolling DMC carcus as a "test dummy" as shown in photo #4 inside a friends shop. He plans on adding a few more racks so he can store more cars underneath and double his storage space.

Each pallet rack can handle a min. of 5,600 lbs each with one rack under the front wheel and another rack under the rear wheels.

Each rack is 56" high by 80" wide and bolted to the floor and rear wall as well as connected to one another with cross braces.

We used a Portable midrise scissor lift to get it up there.

I want to add two of those to my house garage to increase my storage as well.

Who thinks that my friend and I are crazy for trying this?

Be honest, I am a big boy!

This type of system is all over Asia but with built in lift mechanisms... It's just starting to break into the US markets.
I work on a lot of designs for car dealerships and we've looked at them for inventory storage a number of times but have yet to implement any.

Can't remember the specific brand we looked at but here's one type. http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/parking-lifts/pl-14000.aspx

Cheers
Steven

[mr_maxime]

I think they are pretty difficult to get planning permission for to build in a domestic house, and your insurance co. might take a dim view of them; falls, entrapment, drowning, CO gassing to name a few things.

Plus, they are hard to take with you when you move.

All in all, a bit of PIT-A sorry......:smashfreak:

I forgot to say that this was in a detached garage where most were built over compacted dirt. Laws were probably different as well. Probably a decent amount of downsides, but at least you wouldnt have to worry about the stability or the car crushing you lol.

[tommyrich]

Would anyone be willing to give their opinions on this lift?

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-Garage-Pro-8-000

This is the one I have as well. I like most everything about it, but it is dog slow going up.
I did eventually bolt it down, once I had it for a few months and found the perfect orientation.
If you do go with the 4-post and the lift jack, purchase them together, it may save you a lot of money on shipping.
And buy extra drip trays. They get stepped on and cracked. They are only a few dollars each.
Finally, Greg Smith Equipment also sells a nice oil drains that are a great complement to a lift.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/8-Gallon-Oil-Drain

Tom

[Chris 16409]

This is the one I have as well. I like most everything about it, but it is dog slow going up.
I did eventually bolt it down, once I had it for a few months and found the perfect orientation.
If you do go with the 4-post and the lift jack, purchase them together, it may save you a lot of money on shipping.
And buy extra drip trays. They get stepped on and cracked. They are only a few dollars each.
Finally, Greg Smith Equipment also sells a nice oil drains that are a great complement to a lift.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/8-Gallon-Oil-Drain

Tom

On the product page it says the jack tray is included. So the jack tray allows you to jack the car up while the car is on the lift correct? Looks like you get 4 drip trays too. I drive my DeLorean on the weekends so it would be on the lift during the week. With that use, can I get away with not bolting it down?

[Soundkillr]

On the product page it says the jack tray is included. So the jack tray allows you to jack the car up while the car is on the lift correct? Looks like you get 4 drip trays too. I drive my DeLorean on the weekends so it would be on the lift during the week. With that use, can I get away with not bolting it down?

Yes and yes.
I have never bolted mine down, and the lift is used often. It has never moved or been any issue...

I should add, they suggest you bolt it down, IF you will be doing a lot of up and down with the lift. Light use will be no big deal at all...

[tommyrich]

On the product page it says the jack tray is included. So the jack tray allows you to jack the car up while the car is on the lift correct? Looks like you get 4 drip trays too. I drive my DeLorean on the weekends so it would be on the lift during the week. With that use, can I get away with not bolting it down?

A jack tray is simply a platform to put a jack on. It "can" be used in conjunction with a floor or bottle jack, but it is a bit clunky. It is different from the lift jack that has retractable arms to lift one whole axle.
You need 4 trays to cover the area between the ramps. At least 2 extra would be my suggestion.

Tom

[Nicholas R]

No matter what lift you buy it has to be fastened to the floor. Do not buy a 4 post and think you can roll it around just because they offer some wheels on it. Just about any 4 poster will work on any good, level, well built, concrete floor. Try to buy one with a full closed tube design for each post, not a bent up sheet metal post that is not a closed tube. Each post must have a locking bar. 220 is the way to go but you will need an electrician to wire it up. Figure $2500 and up for new, used can be a lot cheaper if you can find a good one. Back Yard Buddy is one of the better, more expensive ones.

I'm going to have to call a little BS on you here David. Nearly all 4 post manufacturers say that fastening to the floor is optional. Any home 4 post lift I've seen in person has not been. In fact, if you were familiar with the "Back Yard Buddy" you'd know one of their biggest advertising points is that it is freestanding and does not need bolted to the ground.
Taken directly from their website:


Our lifts are called "free standing" because they are so rigid they don't need to be bolted to the floor. With the optional casters, they are completely portable. You can roll your lift around the garage or outside on the driveway, even while supporting a car.

They actually reinforce this so much that the feet do not have holes in them; if you wanted to bolt it down, you'd have to drill holes yourself.



Like I said earlier, this is the lift I have. I LOVE this lift. I've had mine for 6 years with no issues at all.

Are you able to roll the lift into the driveway, or are the columns to high? I know all garage door openings are a little different but this is one thing I'm curious about. I have 2 separate garages on my house (a 2 car and a 1 car on opposite sides), and depending on the circumstances, I may want to move the lift from one garage to the other. One lift I was considering has 86" columns and I'm not sure if it's too tall. This one says 83" so it may be closer. Thanks for the help!

[tommyrich]

... Keep in mind that when using the wheels, it does add a few inches as they sort of Jack the lift up.

[Soundkillr]

Are you able to roll the lift into the driveway, or are the columns to high? I know all garage door openings are a little different but this is one thing I'm curious about. I have 2 separate garages on my house (a 2 car and a 1 car on opposite sides), and depending on the circumstances, I may want to move the lift from one garage to the other. One lift I was considering has 86" columns and I'm not sure if it's too tall. This one says 83" so it may be closer. Thanks for the help!

Nick, I'll double check this afternoon, but I want to say yes, it could be rolled out into the driveway.

[Nicholas R]

Nick, I'll double check this afternoon, but I want to say yes, it could be rolled out into the driveway.

This would be great; thank you! The positive testimonial from you and Tom is making me really lean toward this lift :thumbup:

[Soundkillr]

This would be great; thank you! The positive testimonial from you and Tom is making me really lean toward this lift :thumbup:

I checked today, mine won't roll out the door. I'll get you measurments of both the door and the lengths of my pillars. I'll pm you with this tomorrow. It could be I have the taller lift...

[Chris 16409]

I was looking on Gregg Smith's website and came across this one:

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-408SL-8-000-LB-Four-Post-Lift_2

For a little bit more, it seems like it's a bit more heavy duty. You can also use their sliding jack with this lift.

[David T]

I'm going to have to call a little BS on you here David. Nearly all 4 post manufacturers say that fastening to the floor is optional. Any home 4 post lift I've seen in person has not been. In fact, if you were familiar with the "Back Yard Buddy" you'd know one of their biggest advertising points is that it is freestanding and does not need bolted to the ground.
Taken directly from their website:



They actually reinforce this so much that the feet do not have holes in them; if you wanted to bolt it down, you'd have to drill holes yourself.




Are you able to roll the lift into the driveway, or are the columns to high? I know all garage door openings are a little different but this is one thing I'm curious about. I have 2 separate garages on my house (a 2 car and a 1 car on opposite sides), and depending on the circumstances, I may want to move the lift from one garage to the other. One lift I was considering has 86" columns and I'm not sure if it's too tall. This one says 83" so it may be closer. Thanks for the help!

Raise up a car, get a ladder, get up there with the car and walk around or just open the door on the car. Then tell me what you think about not bolting the thing to the floor. Maybe all of that movement doesn't bother you but I feel a LOT better not having it sway on me with all of that weight up in the air. If you do lift the car up and try to move it around and the floor is not PERFECTLY FLAT and one post hits a hole or otherwise gets stuck I would worry the post would bend and drop the car. But that is just me. The other problem is most garage doors won't open high enough to allow the posts to go through.

[SS Spoiler]

Correct me if i'm wrong, but wasn't former DeLorean owner Gene Bullis
of Sioux Falls killed when his lift collapsed on him?

[Nicholas R]

If you do lift the car up and try to move it around and the floor is not PERFECTLY FLAT and one post hits a hole or otherwise gets stuck I would worry the post would bend and drop the car. But that is just me.

I'm not advocating moving the lift around while a car is on it. Heck, most of the caster kits wont allow you to do that; you actually have to have the platforms lowered, as their engagement with the caster lever is what raises the lift off the ground. Only the Back Yard Buddy lift (the one you recommended) says its okay to move with a car on it (which sounds crazy to me...).


I checked today, mine won't roll out the door. I'll get you measurments of both the door and the lengths of my pillars. I'll pm you with this tomorrow. It could be I have the taller lift...
Thank you again :thumbup:

[Rich W]

I'm not advocating moving the lift around while a car is on it. Heck, most of the caster kits wont allow you to do that; you actually have to have the platforms lowered, as their engagement with the caster lever is what raises the lift off the ground. Only the Back Yard Buddy lift (the one you recommended) says its okay to move with a car on it (which sounds crazy to me...).


Thank you again :thumbup:

The Back Yard Buddy and a small number of other higher quality 4-post lifts allowed you to order the lifts with custom height posts in the past (maybe 15 years ago).
Although this may limit the over-all height you will be able to lift the car, for most folks that are 6ft tall or shorter, this will not be much of an issue for occasional work.

Not sure if this is still offered by one or more manufacturers, but it really is the way to go, even with the extra cost. They will also supply custom length ramps for the
runners, which is especially handy when you have a lowered car. The ramps bigger will weigh more and take up more space when not in use, but are worth it as well.

[Delorean3610]

I like two post, they work well for me.37822

[David T]

I like two post, they work well for me.37822

There is also such as thing as a 1 post lift. I have not seen one in person but they look like they could work in certain situations. Especially for a small car like a Delorean.

[DMC5180]

There is also such as thing as a 1 post lift. I have not seen one in person but they look like they could work in certain situations. Especially for a small car like a Delorean.

I have been contemplating a single post lift myself, due to an undersized 20 X 20 2 car garage. I had been strongly considering the BYB 4 post. But at the end of the day the inner posts would be obstacles when walking between the cars.


Dennis

[DMCMW Dave]

... due to an undersized 20 X 20 2 car garage. ...

Dennis

Fix that first and the other problems will go away.

[DMC5180]

Yeah, I know. If I ever move from this house. More garage shop space will be a priority. But my house design and lot limitations do not lend well to garage expansion.




Dennis