How To: Rebuild the CV Joints

[sean]

4071

Some have experienced negative results with using the tie on the larger end. I have since started adding a film of RTV gasket to the outside of the joint housing surface where the boot seals to. This, in a limited number of test cases, has eliminated the seep of grease from the larger end from insufficient clamping. Also, you can always use the metal bands that are supplied by the vendors.

[Domi]

Very nice how-to, I remember it on old dmctalk.

[sean]

Very nice how-to, I remember it on old dmctalk.

I'm finally getting time to put up files I have.

[aludden]

Thanks for re-posting, Sean!

What else is involved besides the write-up? You remove the wheels and ... ?

Also, what is the procedure for replacing the auto trans lip seal?

I'm debating whether to do it myself, or get the rebuilts.

Oh, and what kind of grease goes in there? I like synthetics, but they are probably not in the kit.

Thanks!
Alex

[sean]

Thanks for re-posting, Sean!

What else is involved besides the write-up? You remove the wheels and ... ?


Wheels can stay on, makes for rotating that shafts easier.


Also, what is the procedure for replacing the auto trans lip seal?


I can work on this, its not that tough. If you need help right away just shoot me a pm



Oh, and what kind of grease goes in there? I like synthetics, but they are probably not in the kit.


Rebuild kits come with grease.

[aludden]

Wheels can stay on, makes for rotating that shafts easier.

I can work on this, its not that tough. If you need help right away just shoot me a pm

Rebuild kits come with grease.

Oh, I see. So you just remove the bolts and they come out. Cool!
Thanks!

[Dangermouse]

I did mine with the car on ramps, but it would have been better on jacks to rotate the wheels as sean says.

Straight-forward job, but messy. Work out what you are going to use as clamps ahead of time (i.e. get a clamp tool if necessary)

[ccurzio]

Great doc, Sean. Thanks.

Just out of curiosity, is this one of the items you mentioned needed doing on my car?

[sean]

Great doc, Sean. Thanks.

Just out of curiosity, is this one of the items you mentioned needed doing on my car?

Sorry, but to much has happened since we adjusted your doors. I cant remember off the top of my head if it is. If you want, just send me some pics and I can tell ya.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I doing this now. Thanks for the PDF. My caps were on very tight so I just used a block of wood and hammer. If your joint is not on the axle, use a large screwdriver in a bolt hole to hold (stepping on the screw driver) the joint while you hammer on the wood.

[dn010]

I know the subject is rebuild, but if anyone goes in and finds one of their CV joints damaged, you can get a X-ref replacement from a Porsch 911, same with boots and cap. Last time I did this, I got all 4 for a good price and it saved me from having to deal with cleaning up the grease.

[Nicholas R]

I know the subject is rebuild, but if anyone goes in and finds one of their CV joints damaged, you can get a X-ref replacement from a Porsch 911, same with boots and cap. Last time I did this, I got all 4 for a good price and it saved me from having to deal with cleaning up the grease.

Just to clarify, it's the 911 Turbo (930). There are versions of the naturally aspirated 911 that had the smaller VW CV joints that are not the right size. But I believe pretty much all the late 70s and 80s 930s use the same CVs as the DeLorean.

[Bitsyncmaster]

After cleaning my CV joints I noticed a green dot shows a side with a little undercutting on the spline. So I guess this side needs to be oriented in a proper direction. Anybody know the direction?

[Nicholas R]

After cleaning my CV joints I noticed a green dot shows a side with a little undercutting on the spline. So I guess this side needs to be oriented in a proper direction. Anybody know the direction?

The same way you took it off :wink:

I believe that the side with the machined shoulder goes to the inside of the shaft. At least that's how I've always rebuilt them.

[dn010]

Green arrow goes towards the the shaft, you can see the splines are cut at an angle to make it easier to engage the splines on the shaft. Flat side up for the snap ring.

I could be mistaken, but I believe if you put it together backwards you can't put the snap ring on it due to a clearance issue, making it foolproof.

[DMC-81]

I agree with Nick and Dan.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I think your all correct. I tried sliding it on the shaft both ways and it looks like I could only get the C clip on when the green dot (cut spline) side is put onto the shaft first.

[Mark413]

Anyone know the proper torque, when putting the bolts back in?

[DMC-81]

Anyone know the proper torque, when putting the bolts back in?

Hi Mark. Yes, it's 30 ft lbs. It can also be found in K:09:01 of the Workshop Manual, or in the service bulletin ST-09-7.81 (https://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-09-7.81.html) under "Shaft to inner and outer drive shafts"
Thread size= M10 x 17
NM = 40
Ft.lbs. = 30

[Bitsyncmaster]

Ready to assemble.

Note the CV housing has a ring on one side. I don't think it matters if you flip it but on my car the side with ring is on the side without the boot. I've seen a few you tube videos that suggest to not put the same axle or same end back in the car the way they came out so the bearings may sit in a new "unused" spot. You can see a shinny spot where the bearing are mostly sitting.

Also my caps had some sort of "glue" on them to hold them onto the CV housing. It was a soft blue color "glue". I don't think you need any glue which was probably just so they did not fall apart in the parts bin.

I also did some measurements just in case you loose your "C clip" or someone installed a wrong axle.

Length of axle shaft = 21.11"
Distance from end of shaft to center-line of the boot clamp location =4.975"
C-clamp location dia. on shaft = 1.045"

[DMC-81]

Ready to assemble.

Note the CV housing has a ring on one side. I don't think it matters if you flip it but on my car the side with ring is on the side without the boot. I've seen a few you tube videos that suggest to not put the same axle or same end back in the car the way they came out so the bearings may sit in a new "unused" spot. You can see a shinny spot where the bearing are mostly sitting.

Also my caps had some sort of "glue" on them to hold them onto the CV housing. It was a soft blue color "glue". I don't think you need any glue which was probably just so they did not fall apart in the parts bin.

I also did some measurements just in case you loose your "C clip" or someone installed a wrong axle.

Length of axle shaft = 21.11"
Distance from end of shaft to center-line of the boot clamp location =4.975"
C-clamp location dia. on shaft = 1.045"


Hi Dave, the glue was blue Hylomar and was there as a seal to prevent leaking of the grease from the joint. I would highly recommend cleaning the old Hylomar off and replacing it with the same or a good bead of RTV.
Otherwise your joints will drip on a hot day, and fling grease everywhere.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49418&d=1489147106
Also, I recommend using blue Loctite on the bolts.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks for that suggestion.

I put the boots on the axle. Remember when you install the large clamp, place the clamp where you want it to sit and put the clamping bump between two bolt holes so you don't have any interference installing the bolts.