Dash bulbs and binical dimmer

[88KPH]

Hi. How do I replace bulbs behind dash dails?
Also after pulling off the gearstick panel , I saw 2of the 3 wires that go to the binical bulb dimmer had fallen off. But there are 4 connectors. Which goes where?
38950

Missing bulbs. ..


38951

[DMCVegas]

Is that a Kenwood Excelon radio with rotating DMask?

[88KPH]

Rob please concentrate on the matter in hand!
Hahaha

[iflights]

Post #17 might help.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10336-Assorted-helpful-technical-photos/page2

[88KPH]

I think that'll work, Iflight, thankyou my good fellow.

It is a Kenwood, Rob.......

https://youtu.be/U5Wfa9RrSpM

Any ideas of getting to the missing bulbs behind dash dials?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Your AC panel lights have nothing to do with dimming rheostat. The bulb sockets on the AC panel lights are bad or will be intermittent.

The rheostat is just for dimming the binnacle lights. All the red/orange wires get connected together. Your rheostat should have termianls that you can see are connected. The other terminal you attach the one red/white wire to.

[David T]

Your AC panel lights have nothing to do with dimming rheostat. The bulb sockets on the AC panel lights are bad or will be intermittent.

The rheostat is just for dimming the binnacle lights. All the red/orange wires get connected together. Your rheostat should have termianls that you can see are connected. The other terminal you attach the one red/white wire to.


There is a mod where you remove the relay and install a jumper so the A/C panel only lights up when you turn on the headlights. If you use LED's the dimmer won't work. Even if you use incandescent bulbs the dimmer does not work very linearly, it dims a little and then cuts the lights off altogether.

[88KPH]

Thanks for taking time to reply, I know they are separate.
I've a bulb out on the AC panel, but I can't work out how to get to them.

[BABIS]

Thanks for taking time to reply, I know they are separate.
I've a bulb out on the AC panel, but I can't work out how to get to them.


Your AC panel lights have nothing to do with dimming rheostat. The bulb sockets on the AC panel lights are bad or will be intermittent.

The rheostat is just for dimming the binnacle lights. All the red/orange wires get connected together. Your rheostat should have termianls that you can see are connected. The other terminal you attach the one red/white wire to.

a little bit OT:
Dave, is it true that jumpering the 3 rheostat wires you will have (fixed) maximum light all the time?

[Bitsyncmaster]

a little bit OT:
Dave, is it true that jumpering the 3 rheostat wires you will have (fixed) maximum light all the time?

I removed my binnacle rheostat so all 5 wires got connected to keep the binnacle lights on full power.

If you mean the AC panel lights, in OEM wiring, those are on full power when the headlights are off and reduced power through a resistor when the headlights are on. There is a documented change to have them only light full power when the headlights are on.

[Jonathan]

Thanks for taking time to reply, I know they are separate.
I've a bulb out on the AC panel, but I can't work out how to get to them.

If you already have the shifter plate out of the way, you are almost all the way to getting access to the bulbs. Some of them anyway. Depending on which ones are out, you might need to remove the centre console.

For starters:

1.) gently pull off the three rotating knobs (Temperature, Fan Speed, Mode Selector)

2.) behind the mode selector knob, there is a tiny little screw that holds the faceplate on:

http://store.delorean.com/p-7788-screw-countersunk-n4.aspx

#36 on the 7-3-0 parts page

Once that is removed, you are left with this:

389583895938960

You can see where the screw goes near the middle and where it says BI-LEVEL.

You can now get to the lower three bulbs. These are the ones kind of held in by that faceplate. Be careful with the plastic as they break easy. You can see on my own that at some point it got snapped on one of those bulbs.

Your bulbs might have just slid back from their little homes. If your burnt bulbs are the ones above, right in the stereo bracket, you are likely going to need to take the console out. Do this first and then if that is needed, ask for more help. Once that console is out, you can have access to a whole host of things.

See how easy it can turn into a "while you're in there" adventure? Good luck Dr. Jones.

[88KPH]

38951

Should the Hazzard warning light up?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Should the Hazzard warning light up?

Yes. You can pull the bulb from behind the switch.

[Jonathan]

Should the Hazzard warning light up?

I want to say only when it is being used. I don't have my car available right this minute to check for you though.

I should have mentioned earlier, too, that those bottom three bulbs are dedicated to the warning symbol they are behind, so only come on during that condition. Cooling fan fail, rear defrost on, door locks. Some cars have had that cooling fan fail light rewired to come on when the fans come on instead of when they fail. The door locks light comes on until you lock the doors. Defrost light comes on when the defrost is on.

Those A/C panel lights though I believe need the rheostat wires to be connected to work. The wiring diagram is a little hard to follow, but if I remember correctly, since they dim using the rheostat, they also get power through those connections.

I have LED lit window switches and I'm thinking they come on (lit up) anytime the key is turned in the ignition and not via the headlight switch. Not sure about the LED or incandescent that might be inside the hazard or headlight switch itself.

I'd check it on my own car and tell you quickly but it's taken apart and has no battery in it right now.

EDIT: Beauty, thanks Dave.

[88KPH]

Cheers guys.


Yes. You can pull the bulb from behind the switch.

But how do I get behind the switch?

[Bitsyncmaster]

You may be correct that the four red/orange wires need to be connected for all the lights to work.

The hazard and headlight switches light when the headlights are on in my car. I think that is stock operation.

[burch]

I changed out all of my A/C panel bulbs earlier this year. Most of them were pretty easy, but a few of the sockets came loose, so I ended up having to reach behind the panel (via the driver's footwell) and just managed to get enough pressure with my fingers to hold them in while putting in the new LEDs. Got really lucky that I didn't have to remove the console, so it can be done :)

[Bitsyncmaster]

Cheers guys.



But how do I get behind the switch?

Disconnect your battery first. Then you can pull or push from behind to get the switch out the front.

[David T]

One of the wires on the dimmer feeds the illumination for the hazard switch. Make sure they are all connected BEFORE taking out the bulb (the bulb may be OK) The bulbs for the hazard and headlight are supposed to light when the headlight switch is in the park or headlight position. The switches can be reached without removing the center console but you have to know what you are doing blind, you can only get 1 hand in there and no eyeballs. You remove the plug on the back of the switch and then remove the bulb and holder from the center, back, of the switch. Good luck trying to find the bulbs locally.

[88KPH]

Thanks everyone, I'll go have alook later today.
While there my clock has never worked, not sure I want it to because I always disconnect battery overnight. And resetting every day would be a royal pain.
Has anyone any ideas or done something different/useful with the area/wiring?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks everyone, I'll go have alook later today.
While there my clock has never worked, not sure I want it to because I always disconnect battery overnight. And resetting every day would be a royal pain.
Has anyone any ideas or done something different/useful with the area/wiring?

There are a few people that sell a new clock with a battery back up. If your OEM clock is still working (maybe just unplugged) you can sell it to help pay for a new clock.

[88KPH]

Some success, got two bulbs that aren't working out, Yay!!
Some failures, dropped spring from 'Hazzard switch' down behind panel, :angry: Fan fail bulb was missing and those wires to the dimmer are ridiculously short. :screwy: No wonder dimmer was cracked and wires fell off. Obviously PO couldn't get them back on properly. I'm going to have to extend them an inch or two.
Now to find replacement bulbs..................

[88KPH]

If it helps others with not so perfect eye-sight......

Replacement A/C Dash panel Dial Back lights bulbs........... # part number PHILIPS 12V 2W IMP 12829

[Bitsyncmaster]

Some success, got two bulbs that aren't working out, Yay!!
Some failures, dropped spring from 'Hazzard switch' down behind panel, :angry: Fan fail bulb was missing and those wires to the dimmer are ridiculously short. :screwy: No wonder dimmer was cracked and wires fell off. Obviously PO couldn't get them back on properly. I'm going to have to extend them an inch or two.
Now to find replacement bulbs..................

If you need to extend the wires (yes mine were also short), just connect all four red/orange wires and put one extender wire to go to the rheostat.

[David T]

To keep the clock going you run a wire to it directly from the battery. Use an in-line fuse.

[Mario]

Thanks everyone, I'll go have alook later today.
While there my clock has never worked, not sure I want it to because I always disconnect battery overnight. And resetting every day would be a royal pain.
Has anyone any ideas or done something different/useful with the area/wiring?

I have a prototype clock if you'd like to test it!

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12929-New-Clock-Module-Looking-for-Testers

It's battery-backed, so you don't have to reset the time after you disconnect your battery. :)

[88KPH]

I'd definitely be interested, but do you realise I'm in the old, country of birth, mother country?
If we could work a deal of 3 month trail & both happy with its performance, I could ping you over some pre-arranged costs payment. Rather than posting back again.
If not, no worries.
Just out of interest, how long does the back-up battery last between runs?

[88KPH]

If your OEM clock is still working (maybe just unplugged) .

It was still connected under the clock, is there another connection that might be un-plugged? How do I test the round multi point connector, which ones are live or earth? Is there a good earthing point near central console?

[Jonathan]

It was still connected under the clock, is there another connection that might be un-plugged? How do I test the round multi point connector, which ones are live or earth? Is there a good earthing point near central console?

38981

Wiring shows a couple different inline fuses. Those were originally glass type fuses and maybe that's where your problem is?

Anything else on that circuit shown not working on your car?

[Mario]

I'd definitely be interested, but do you realise I'm in the old, country of birth, mother country?
If we could work a deal of 3 month trail & both happy with its performance, I could ping you over some pre-arranged costs payment. Rather than posting back again.
If not, no worries.
Just out of interest, how long does the back-up battery last between runs?

As long as you drive your car daily (or close to it) so you can properly test the clock, I'll pay for all the shipping, no worries. :) Unfortunately, I'll need to be asking for it back eventually as it's prototype hardware. The final version will have a few tweaks that make it slightly better.
The backup battery isn't meant to be used all the time. The clock expects that 99% of the time, the 12V battery will be connected. But despite that, the backup battery should last about 2.5 years, even completely disconnected from a car. In a car with constant 12V, it would last 10 years.

Make sure your clock connector is actually getting power and all that. There is also a switched 12V connection in there that comes on when you turn the car on.

[Jonathan]

Make sure your clock connector is actually getting power and all that. There is also a switched 12V connection in there that comes on when you turn the car on.

Good point.

The wiring diagram shows the purple wire as the "always on" power (for settings memory) and the green/white wire is the switched power that only comes on when you turn the key in the ignition.

38982

[DMCMW Dave]

Good point.

The wiring diagram shows the purple wire as the "always on" power (for settings memory) and the green/white wire is the switched power that only comes on when you turn the key in the ignition.

38982

This is why you need to be very careful re-using the original wiring on modern stereos.

--On the OE stereo, the purple is very low power, just the clock. The main power is the switched power lead, this powers the radio and amplifiers.

--On many modern stereos, the constant-on wire also powers the amplifier, and the switched lead just "tells" the radio that the car is running. If you try and connect a modern radio to the original plug (and therefore inline fuses) it will probably blow the fuses.


ALSO
--they use a lot more power
--the speakers are not grounded

[David T]

This is why you need to be very careful re-using the original wiring on modern stereos.

--On the OE stereo, the purple is very low power, just the clock. The main power is the switched power lead, this powers the radio and amplifiers.

--On many modern stereos, the constant-on wire also powers the amplifier, and the switched lead just "tells" the radio that the car is running. If you try and connect a modern radio to the original plug (and therefore inline fuses) it will probably blow the fuses.


ALSO
--they use a lot more power
--the speakers are not grounded

Bottom line, if you are upgrading the speakers and/or the radio you really should upgrade the wiring too. It was barely adequate for the original radio!

[88KPH]

38981

Wiring shows a couple different inline fuses. Those were originally glass type fuses and maybe that's where your problem is?

Anything else on that circuit shown not working on your car?

I'm not great at wiring diagrams, especially without the key. I can see B (Black) is Earth. And the inline fuse (Going to or from?) the radio.
Could someone tell abit more info?