What's simplest way to make sure trailing arms bolts are good?

[Redsquall]

What's simplest way to make sure trailing arms bolts are good?
Car is 14k miles, seems mostly stock.

[DMCMW Dave]

What's simplest way to make sure trailing arms bolts are good?
Car is 14k miles, seems mostly stock.

If the frame is rusty, replace them. They can fail from rust penetration of the plating without ever bending.

The real test is to loosen the nut, and rotate the bolt from the head end (usually inside the frame next to the transmission). If the bolt will not turn, it's frozen into the arm and needs to be replaced. If the bolt turns, but you see the arm move up and down as you rotate the bolt, the bolt is bent and should be replaced.

Mileage seems to have very little to do with it, I've seen frozen bolts on low mile cars, and bent ones at pretty low miles too. On higher mile cars you'll usually find a bad bushing or two as well.

[Redsquall]

Dave,
If it's original but straight and not frozen, is it just a matter of time before it goes bad?

Anyone - does anyone have a photo of exactly where these are at, It's not clear to me from the google images photos.
Thanks


If the frame is rusty, replace them. They can fail from rust penetration of the plating without ever bending.

The real test is to loosen the nut, and rotate the bolt from the head end (usually inside the frame next to the transmission). If the bolt will not turn, it's frozen into the arm and needs to be replaced. If the bolt turns, but you see the arm move up and down as you rotate the bolt, the bolt is bent and should be replaced.

Mileage seems to have very little to do with it, I've seen frozen bolts on low mile cars, and bent ones at pretty low miles too. On higher mile cars you'll usually find a bad bushing or two as well.

[DMCMW Dave]

Dave,
If it's original but straight and not frozen, is it just a matter of time before it goes bad?

Anyone - does anyone have a photo of exactly where these are at, It's not clear to me from the google images photos.
Thanks

It's a maintenance item. If it's not rusty, and not frozen, and you never hit potholes, it will last a very long time.

Hard to see with the car on the ground as they are covered mostly by the training arm shields aka deflector panels.

[Rich]

Dave,
If it's original but straight and not frozen, is it just a matter of time before it goes bad?

Anyone - does anyone have a photo of exactly where these are at, It's not clear to me from the google images photos.
Thanks

Dave's right.

For instance ours were fine at 30 years and 60K miles. No rust, no cracking, nothing bent. Replaced them anyway and put in new bushings, then aligned rear end (bought some shims beforehand to allow this). Could we have left them in place? Probably but now we're good for another 30 yrs.

Our experience applies to our car, never driven into any TAB-bending craters or curbs. Your results may vary.

As for finding them get the car up on ramps or a lift, follow the trailing arms forward from the rear hubs. A TAB (trailing arm bolt) connects the front of each arm to the frame.
TABS are item 25 in thttp://store.delorean.com/c-354-5-3-0-rear-suspension.aspx Shims, nuts, bushings also shown in diagram.

Any good suspension shop can handle the whole deal if you get the parts for them.

[Jonathan]

Dave,
If it's original but straight and not frozen, is it just a matter of time before it goes bad?

Anyone - does anyone have a photo of exactly where these are at, It's not clear to me from the google images photos.
Thanks

Have a look at the pictures in this post:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10336-Assorted-helpful-technical-photos&p=152172&viewfull=1#post152172

[Some guy]

They are less then 20 Dollars, replace them.

It take about 2 hours.

I have a "California car". Very little rust.

Mine snapped going 2 MPH over a speed bump. It really was not that hard. It just took some time to remove a few bolts.

[David T]

They are less then 20 Dollars, replace them.

It take about 2 hours.

I have a "California car". Very little rust.

Mine snapped going 2 MPH over a speed bump. It really was not that hard. It just took some time to remove a few bolts.

If you do go through the trouble of replacing the bolts you should get a 4 wheel alignment. Torque is very critical, if you undertorque, the bolts will fatigue, stretch and bend. If you overtorque you will collapse the tube in the rubber mount and then you can't achieve the proper torque on the bolt. In extreme cases it is impossible to remove the bolt in one piece. You have to slice it up into pieces and press the pieces out of the trailing arm and the rubber mount. If it won't turn when you loosen it up you could be in a lot of trouble. it is not always easy.

[DMCMW Dave]

....If you overtorque you will collapse the tube in the rubber mount and then you can't achieve the proper torque on the bolt....
And you'll find that getting it to align will take more than the limit of 5 shims.

[mr_maxime]

How long are the inconel bolts expected to hold up vs the stock ones?

[David T]

There has been no life testing done so there is no answer to your question. The assumption is a very long time.