Left Axle Input Seal

[Shark Pilot]

I know there has been a decent amount of information about this topic and I've garnered quite a bit from the following thread: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2569-CV-Joints-and-Lip-Seals/page7.

However, I have NEVER done this before and I have no idea what tools to use, how long this takes, how difficult it is or whom I should get the part(s) from. This leak is the ONLY leak I have on the car. It started out as one to two drops a month and now its one to two a week. It will only get worse so I need help and I can't afford to take it to anyone. I just repaired the left valve cover on it and have performed numerous repairs on the car myself so I'm mechanically able, but not savvy on this particular repair. Please help. The pics below are the only ones I could get that show the leak. It's very small obviously, but getting worse with time and use.

[David T]

Very common and not too hard to fix. You have to remove the half-shaft, punch out the roll pin (make sure you position the flange so it has a clear shot out) pull the output flange off and pop out the seal. Avoid the temptation to mess with the large nut, it doesn't have to come out and you can mess up a very sensitive adjustment. If the flange has a groove worn into it you can replace it or put a "Speedi-Sleeve" on it. Pop a new seal in and reassemble. All of the vendors have the seals and the sleeves, not expensive. After you finish check the level in the transaxle.

[Shark Pilot]

Very common and not too hard to fix. You have to remove the half-shaft, punch out the roll pin (make sure you position the flange so it has a clear shot out) pull the output flange off and pop out the seal. Avoid the temptation to mess with the large nut, it doesn't have to come out and you can mess up a very sensitive adjustment. If the flange has a groove worn into it you can replace it or put a "Speedi-Sleeve" on it. Pop a new seal in and reassemble. All of the vendors have the seals and the sleeves, not expensive. After you finish check the level in the transaxle.

Thanks David. You are always so darn quick with your responses. It's kind of amazing.

Anyway, this is the good one-over-the-world of instruction and good to know it's not as hard as me thinks, but I don't know what tools to use. Is it pretty intuitive? Can I just put the car on ramps and work the half shaft that way or should I jack it? How many hours would this take a skilled technician? It's going to be in my garage so I have good space, but not a ton of space to work. Do I use a "double lip seal?" Also should I order the little O ring that goes around the spline? Also what torq do I use on the bolts with reassembly? How do I check the level in the transaxle? I'm looking to replace the tranny oil too, but I have so many questions!

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I know there has been a decent amount of information about this topic and I've garnered quite a bit from the following thread: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2569-CV-Joints-and-Lip-Seals/page7.

However, I have NEVER done this before and I have no idea what tools to use, how long this takes, how difficult it is or whom I should get the part(s) from. This leak is the ONLY leak I have on the car. It started out as one to two drops a month and now its one to two a week. It will only get worse so I need help and I can't afford to take it to anyone. I just repaired the left valve cover on it and have performed numerous repairs on the car myself so I'm mechanically able, but not savvy on this particular repair. Please help. The pics below are the only ones I could get that show the leak. It's very small obviously, but getting worse with time and use.

Thanks for the plug on the rear main seal inquiry but you should follow your own advice and give me a call. I have the correct factory style seal which no one else carries. I also have flanges with a heavier machined stainless sleeve if yours is pitted or grooved (very common). The speedi-sleeves tend to distort on installation and then your flange is toast. Stay away from them. You will need to drain the fluid either way as the seal is below the fluid level. Use 80/85/90 gear oil only. 80/120 will give you terrible cold shifting.
Rob

BTW You'll need a 6 mm pin punch to remove the split pin. Don't try substituting an american size or you butch the pin up!

[Shark Pilot]

Thanks for the plug on the rear main seal inquiry but you should follow your own advice and give me a call. I have the correct factory style seal which no one else carries. I also have flanges with a heavier machined stainless sleeve if yours is pitted or grooved (very common). The speedi-sleeves tend to distort on installation and then your flange is toast. Stay away from them. You will need to drain the fluid either way as the seal is below the fluid level. Use 80/85/90 gear oil only. 80/120 will give you terrible cold shifting.
Rob

BTW You'll need a 6 mm pin punch to remove the split pin. Don't try substituting an american size or you butch the pin up!

Thanks Rob. Calling soon...

[sdg3205]

Thanks for the plug on the rear main seal inquiry but you should follow your own advice and give me a call. I have the correct factory style seal which no one else carries. I also have flanges with a heavier machined stainless sleeve if yours is pitted or grooved (very common). The speedi-sleeves tend to distort on installation and then your flange is toast. Stay away from them. You will need to drain the fluid either way as the seal is below the fluid level. Use 80/85/90 gear oil only. 80/120 will give you terrible cold shifting.
Rob

BTW You'll need a 6 mm pin punch to remove the split pin. Don't try substituting an american size or you butch the pin up!

Rob,

Have you had any experience with the Redline 75w90NS GL-5? I have heard it is specially engineered for transaxles but haven't actually run across many people who have tried it.

[Rich_NYS]

Here's a how-to on the procedure with pics:

http://dmctoday.com/showthread.php?710-Change-Transaxle-Output-Shaft-Lip-Seals

Some of the info might vary from what's mentioned here in this thread, but it's very good.




BTW You'll need a 6 mm pin punch to remove the split pin. Don't try substituting an american size or you butch the pin up!

Wish I had known that sooner -lol

[David T]

Rob,

Have you had any experience with the Redline 75w90NS GL-5? I have heard it is specially engineered for transaxles but haven't actually run across many people who have tried it.

In the Lotus world that is what they are using now because the recommended fluid is no longer available. For Deloreans it is overkill but it will work just fine. So will most other oils. The Delorean is not as hard on the oil (and the transaxle) as in the Lotus.

[DMCMW Dave]

Rob,

Have you had any experience with the Redline 75w90NS GL-5? I have heard it is specially engineered for transaxles but haven't actually run across many people who have tried it.

I have. I didn't like the synchro action and went back to regular 85w90.

[sdg3205]

I have. I didn't like the synchro action and went back to regular 85w90.

Was there more grinding?

[DMCMW Dave]

Was there more grinding?

Yeah once in a while I'd get a gear clash that wasn't there with normal oil. The biggest advantage was easier shifting at very cold temps (based on other cars) but I never drive the DeLorean in winter.

[Nicholas R]

Rob,

Have you had any experience with the Redline 75w90NS GL-5? I have heard it is specially engineered for transaxles but haven't actually run across many people who have tried it.

I am currently using it and I like it a lot. Personally I thought it made the transmission shift a lot smoother. I would imagine it will continue to be my go-to transaxle fluid.

[novadmc]

Here's a how-to on the procedure with pics:

http://dmctoday.com/showthread.php?710-Change-Transaxle-Output-Shaft-Lip-Seals

Some of the info might vary from what's mentioned here in this thread, but it's very good.





Wish I had known that sooner -lol

having never done this before either, i used this guide, bought a pre-machined axle flange and new seal from pj grady and went to work. barring any seized bolts, etc budget, 2 hrs or so doing it yourself, taking your time. it was very straight forward (most annoying part is rotating the axle to make the bolts available to tools. getting the old seal out is a bit of a pain, but not difficult. as for the friction fit retaining pin, just follow the guide and ensure you dont start knocking out into a place that you can't get it fully out.
on the list of work to do, this one's pretty easy!

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Rob,

Have you had any experience with the Redline 75w90NS GL-5? I have heard it is specially engineered for transaxles but haven't actually run across many people who have tried it.

I'm with the two Dave's on this as I think Redline is overkill on the Delorean version UN1 although from what I hear it has a good reputation in the business. Nick's car is not exactly stock so any benefits would be more apparent if your D was putting down over 400 HP like his. I recall trying Redline in a customers car at his request but felt no real difference in a pair of casual comparative road tests. Saving the extra money to put torwards machined stainless sleeved axle flanges would be a better investment IMHO. Valvoline 80/85/90 (or a GL5 equivalent)is more than up to the task and provides good cold weather shifting as well.
Rob

[sdg3205]

I'm with the two Dave's on this as I think Redline is overkill on the Delorean version UN1 although from what I hear it has a good reputation in the business. Nick's car is not exactly stock so any benefits would be more apparent if your D was putting down over 400 HP like his. I recall trying Redline in a customers car at his request but felt no real difference in a pair of casual comparative road tests. Saving the extra money to put torwards machined stainless sleeved axle flanges would be a better investment IMHO. Valvoline 80/85/90 (or a GL5 equivalent)is more than up to the task and provides good cold weather shifting as well.
Rob

I have grinding downshifting into 3rd so I thought this would be a good place to start before taking the tranny out.

[Shark Pilot]

[QUOTE=Rich_NYS;195858]Here's a how-to on the procedure with pics:

http://dmctoday.com/showthread.php?710-Change-Transaxle-Output-Shaft-Lip-Seals

Some of the info might vary from what's mentioned here in this thread, but it's very good.


Holy SH#$! This is EXACTLY what I was looking for! You guys are fricken amazing! I love this community! You guys just saved me hundreds and a lot of time. Praise to all of you and thanks for the discussion as well. Interesting. Going to start probably this coming weekend when all the parts are in.