How to Remove Crankshaft Pulley

[1batt4u]

Hi all,

How do you remove the crankshaft pulley, without the pulley turning?

Thank you!!

[nullset]

Hi all,

How do you remove the crankshaft pulley, without the pulley turning?

Thank you!!

Use an impact wrench. If you're doing other stuff, there's a special tool you put on the flywheel (I think) that stops the engine from being able to rotate.

I thought there was a section on this in the Engine workshop manual, but I can't find it off hand.

[sean]

Impact wrench. Just make sure the woodruff key is at 12 o'clock before pulling the pulley or you may be pulling the oil pan as well.

[TTait]

BTW - you don't have to buy a pneumatic wrench, a compressor, tank and hose. You can pick up an electric impact wrench at Pep Boys etc. that will do just fine. I think I got mine for about $35. You need it to pull the pulley off an alternator, remove (but not install) lug nuts, and a couple other jobs a year too, once you have it.

[dmc4087]

My impact wrench wouldnt remove my crank pully nut. It took us to jam the flywheel along with a 4 foot pole for leverage.

[sean]

My impact wrench wouldnt remove my crank pully nut. It took us to jam the flywheel along with a 4 foot pole for leverage.

yes, there are some extreme cases that's for sure!

[stevedmc]

BTW - you don't have to buy a pneumatic wrench, a compressor, tank and hose. You can pick up an electric impact wrench at Pep Boys etc. that will do just fine. I think I got mine for about $35. You need it to pull the pulley off an alternator, remove (but not install) lug nuts, and a couple other jobs a year too, once you have it.

Do you have to take the rear fascia off to use this sort of impact wrench?

[DMCMW Dave]

Do you have to take the rear fascia off to use this sort of impact wrench?

Not all the way. Take it loose at the bottom.

[content22207]

Some exhaust systems have a muffler in the way.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[sean]

Some exhaust systems have a muffler in the way.


Yup, good idea to remove the oem muffler if its there. I tried an impact with a universal on a cut down socket and just could not make it work.

[stevedmc]

My exhaust is Spec .01 so I don't have one of those silly mufflers in the way. This may sound like a dumb question, I'm still a mechanic in training, but whats to keep me from just using a breaker bar on that nut? I'm sure the pulley could be secured with something.

[Ron]

Nothing if you can keep the engine from turning, but if it is stubborn, you might damage it using the pulley. Jamb the flywheel with an auto. If you have a manual, set the breaker bar where it will not turn (use a cheater if you have to) then put it in gear and push the car...works where am impact won't, but you are apt to break something if it is froze so be careful.

[stevedmc]

Nothing if you can keep the engine from turning, but if it is stubborn, you might damage it using the pulley. Jamb the flywheel with an auto. If you have a manual, set the breaker bar where it will not turn (use a cheater if you have to) then put it in gear and push the car...works where am impact won't, but you are apt to break something if it is froze so be careful.

This is a stupid idea but what about engaging the parking brake and putting the transmission in gear. Would that be enough to keep the engine from turning while removing the nut with a breaker bar?

[Ron]

First, auto or stick?

[stevedmc]

First, auto or stick?

Stick

Btw, sorry about the heated debate on the other thread. Sometimes its best just to agree to disagree.

[Ron]

I can see trying that, depends on how tight it is. Maybe putting it in high gear* and blocking the tires, if need be, and then trying that. Again, in any event, be careful about putting too much on it. I have seen drum brakes get screwed up using the E brake alone, I have never tried really hard ones other than pushing the car.

*I can't remember if that is the right direction right now, if not use reverse.

What have you tried?|

=====

Same here. No Problem, I got thick skinned here lol. I really don't think we were disagreeing about the same thing...different page....but that's a different story and thread ;-)

=====

Sorry for delay... people asking me about a delivery

[stevedmc]

*I can't remember if that is the right direction right now, if not use reverse.

What have you tried?|


Haven't done anything yet. I'm just hijacking this thread and asking questions for future reference. I have a small oil leak which I patched with RTV and I have a feeling I will need to remove the timing chain cover someday.

[sean]

Stick

Btw, sorry about the heated debate on the other thread. Sometimes its best just to agree to disagree.



Same here. No Problem, I got thick skinned here lol. I really don't think we were disagreeing about the same thing...different page....but that's a different story and thread ;-)

=====

Awww, how sweet, let me get you two Nancys a room :devil:

:D

[Ron]

I see. I try in this order: PB Blaster & time(lots), breaker, little impact, big impact, big impact w/ a shot of oil in it, push it. That's usually for teardown i.e. I don't like to use a big impact on a car in the engine or something rare ect. (no control). If a breaker don't do it, I push it.
(One thing if you do try pushing the car, use low or reverse (...been up all night waiting for EMS pager and...you know).

[Ron]

Awww, how sweet, let me get you two Nancys a room :devil:

:DI wouldn't double-dunk on you Sean...I'm hurt!

[DMCMW Dave]

This is a stupid idea but what about engaging the parking brake and putting the transmission in gear. Would that be enough to keep the engine from turning while removing the nut with a breaker bar?

You'll also find yourself taking up the spring slop in the clutch disc at first. You may even slip the clutch.

[stevedmc]

You'll also find yourself taking up the spring slop in the clutch disc at first. You may even slip the clutch.

Hence it being a stupid idea. Thanks for the info.

[DMC5180]

Using the impact wrench method, you still may need to remove the the lower facia support panel (steel) inorder to fit the impact wrench inplace. especially if you use a big electric one (450FT rated) they have a longer body than the pneumatic ones. Also consider that the 35MM (3/4) drive socket will need a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter. It's hard to find a 35mm socket in 1/2 drive. But I'm sure thay are out there somewhere.

Good Luck

[sean]

Hence it being a stupid idea. Thanks for the info.

You wouldn't know without asking though. Better safe than sorry.

[stevedmc]

Well I finally attempted to remove my crankshaft pully last night. I secured the pulley with a chain and then attempted to remove the nut with my breaker bar.

I couldn't get the sucker to budge so now I am looking at my options for purchasing an impact wrench. I really don't want to remove the rear bumper/fascia to do this work but oh well. Hopefully I can just move part of it out of the way.

I would like to get an air driven impact wrench but I don't want to spend money on a big compressor to run it. I guess its off to the store to find an el cheapo electric impact wrench.

[nullset]

Well I finally attempted to remove my crankshaft pully last night. I secured the pulley with a chain and then attempted to remove the nut with my breaker bar.

I couldn't get the sucker to budge so now I am looking at my options for purchasing an impact wrench. I really don't want to remove the rear bumper/fascia to do this work but oh well. Hopefully I can just move part of it out of the way.

I would like to get an air driven impact wrench but I don't want to spend money on a big compressor to run it. I guess its off to the store to find an el cheapo electric impact wrench.

You may want to see if you can rent a good electric impact wrench from your local parts house.

An El Cheapo electric may not have the oomph needed for this task. I'd hate for you to waste your money.

--buddy

[stevedmc]

You may want to see if you can rent a good electric impact wrench from your local parts house.

An El Cheapo electric may not have the oomph needed for this task. I'd hate for you to waste your money.

--buddy

Home depot is 5 minutes from where I work. I might drop by there after work and see if I can rent one.

I made a few phone calls and it looks like I can rent an electric impact wrench for $20/day.

http://www.aaarentall.com/site68.php


EDIT: It looks like I was wrong again. I called AAA to verify and they said they don't have any electric impacts available.

[nullset]

Try an auto parts store, like NAPA or Auto Zone.

[DMCMW Dave]

We've found in some extreme cases a bit of heat (from a torch) ON THE NUT will help in the event some PO put locktite on it. If you do that you may want to plan on changing the seal, which is probably what you are doing anyway.

[David T]

You want to be careful with the pulley and a chain. The pulley can bend easily. The big advantage of the impact is you do not need to be holding the pulley if you use an impact.
David Teitelbaum

[TTait]

I guess its off to the store to find an el cheapo electric impact wrench.

If you keep the receipt, you can decide after using it if it will continue to be a useful tool to keep or not... Keep it clean and nice until you decide.

[stevedmc]

I went to Autozone and spent $60 on an impact wrench.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Great-Neck-1-2-in-120-Volts-220-ft-lbs-heavy-duty-corded-impact-wrench-with-4-pcs-socket-set/_/N-26oi?counter=8&filterByKeyWord=impact+wrench&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=861352_0_0_

I loosened the rear fascia, put the impact wrench/socket on the nut and the thing didn't budge.

I haven't tried using PB Blaster yet. It looks like I'm going to be spending the next couple of days spraying the thing. I don't have a torch to put heat on it.

[1batt4u]

I still haven't tried again to remove mine, but I will try this coming Thursday!! Hope I get it out. I have all parts form engine removed and exhaust system is completely off!!

[stevedmc]

I forgot to mention but before using the impact wrench I tried the chain and a breaker bar. I was warned but I screwed up and bent the pulley some. The damage doesn't look bad though and I am hoping to be able to bend it back.

I gave the nut two generous sprays of PB blaster before bed last night and another good spray this morning. Hopefully the thing comes loose after work.

[dmc6960]

It took about 30 minutes total time fighting my crank pulley nut to get it off when I rebuilt my engine. I have an air impact but a small compressor so I couldn't wail on it for more than a minute strait. And I've had this pulley off once before as well, then again I had a much stronger impact in my hand when I took it off and put it back on the first time.

[DMC5180]

What size Socket did you Get? 35MM or 36MM. It may not seem like much, but the excess play of a 36MM will tend to bounce rather than transmit the energy into the Nut.
That Nut is a bugger But once it cracks loose you can just about spin it off with your fingers assuming it is not Loctited. One-time when I did not have an impact available
I had success using a MAPP gas bottle torch to heat the nut. It Takes a bit to get the nut hot though. when you start seeing smoke let it rest (Heat soak) then I used A 24" breaker bar and cheater pipe. It finally cracked. FYI if there is Loctite on it that will burn it out also.

The biggest issue I had was holding the Crank from turning. I had to resort putting it in gear and having someone stand on the brake.

FWIW I have one of these now :http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-impact-driverswrenches-high-torque-wrenches-dw059k-2.aspx ( 300FTLbs torque)

[stevedmc]

What size Socket did you Get? 35MM or 36MM.

At first I tried a 36mm with a breaker bar. Last night I went to Autozone and purchased a 35mm with my impact wrench. I'm using 35mm now.

[1batt4u]

I already have an air compressor and air wrench. I will give it a try with those. I will have to buy a 35mm socket, and I will let you guys know how things go!!

I will also take measurements of the pulley to design and make a billet aluminum pulley for that as well!!
If anyone missed my thread on billet pulleys, here it is:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1703-Billet-Aluminum-Pulleys-for-Idler

[stevedmc]

I got home, tried the impact again, and it still didn't work. I'm going to put the thing back together, fill it back up with oil, and bring it to the mechanic tomorrow.

It was his impact wrench that put the pulley on and his impact wrench should be able to get the pulley off.

The impact wrench I have is supposed to be over 200 pounds. Well, my neighbor suggested holding the socket with my hand to see if I could keep it from turning. I was able to hold it with ease so I have very little confidence in the power of this impact wrench.

[jmettee]

IIRC, the published tightening torque for that nut is around 230 or 250 ft-lb. If it was previously just slammed on with a high-power impact wrench, a regular cheapie likely is not powerful enough.

If you're friends with your mechanic, see if you can borrow his impact wrench instead of putting the car together to take it somewhere to remove. Also, ask around to other car people & see if they have a good impact wrench to borrow.

[TTait]

I had to run my impact wrench for about 15 seconds before it gave way, but it finally did give way. Not sure if the specs have changed but it looks like mine is 280lbs though...

Now, just because its been a few years - does this nut have a left handed thread? Maybe?

Tom

[dmc6960]

No, regular thread.

[TTait]

Just checkin' it would be a shame if he was unintentionally tightening it.

That said, Steve, you could run the wrench the other way for just a second to see if that breaks anything loose. Its a longshot but I don't think you'll really get it any tighter.

Did you heat it with a torch to break down the locktite?

Tom

[stevedmc]

I tried rocking it the other way but I couldn't get the dang thing to budge.

I don't have a torch to heat it up with but I did tap it with a hammer a little.

I'm getting tired of fighting the thing. Fortunately I have a spec .01 exhaust so I don't have to worry about putting the muffler back on.

My plan is to simply put 7 quarts of oil in it tomorrow and drive over to the mechanic. It shouldn't take but a minute to loosen the nut. Then I can hand tighten it and drive the car home.

[1batt4u]

I finally found the cars Book!!! Was looking through it. On page 61, it shows how to remove the pulley.
http://i53.tinypic.com/2ih2t69.jpg

There is something that locks the flywheel form turning so the nut can be removed.

Anyone seen this??

[Jacko]

A few years ago I wrestled with getting the crankshaft pulley off with no success. My trusted mechanic came to my shop to lend a hand ... no joy. Finally, in desperation I suggested we sacrifice the pully by using a 36" pipe wrench to hold the pulley. "I'll just buy another one" I said. Well, that pipe wrench, plus a cheater held it and the nut came loose. The next day I called Warren at DMCH to order one. Of course he told me they were no longer available. Well, crap! Ultimately Stephen agreed to pull one off a new engine since I had been ... 'a good customer' ... $269.00 !!

Lesson learned ... the old pulley now lives on the wall alongside other screw-ups.

[sean]

There is something that locks the flywheel form turning so the nut can be removed.

Anyone seen this??

You'll notice no transmission is installed either. Not really practical in Steve's case.

[stevedmc]

The next day I called Warren at DMCH to order one. Of course he told me they were no longer available. Well, crap! Ultimately Stephen agreed to pull one off a new engine since I had been ... 'a good customer' ... $269.00 !!

Ouch! My pulley looks the same now, and its still on the stinking car until I get the mechanic to check it out. Did you try bending/hammering it back into shape? Thats my plan.

[Jacko]

Ouch! My pulley looks the same now, and its still on the stinking car until I get the mechanic to check it out. Did you try bending/hammering it back into shape? That's my plan.Strange you should mention that. That was the first thought I had. It's made of something malleable (brass alloy?) and looks like it could be re-shaped easy enough but I'd probably screw that up too.

Wanna borrow my 36" pipe wrench?

EDIT: I wasn't gonna mention this but, what the hell ... I was so affected by that fiasco that when I put the new seal and pulley on I didn't tighten the nut that tight ... really ... not much more than finger tight, then I put on some thread lock. My logic was this: isn't the load carried by the woodruff key? Why must that nut be that tight? I'm sure there is a good answer to that question but I'll have to mention that that was 129,000 miles ago ... it's still there.

[Bitsyncmaster]

EDIT: I wasn't gonna mention this but, what the hell ... I was so affected by that fiasco that when I put the new seal and pulley on I didn't tighten the nut that tight ... really ... not much more than finger tight, then I put on some thread lock. My logic was this: isn't the load carried by the woodruff key? Why must that nut be that tight? I'm sure there is a good answer to that question but I'll have to mention that that was 129,000 miles ago ... it's still there.

That's a good point. Just has the torque of the alternator, cooling pump and AC pump.

Unless the pulley holds the end play of the crank shaft. Not sure what forces are with that but I would not think much.

[1batt4u]

Looking at the book again, can the seal just be pulled out, or need a tool to pull it out?? I am putting a new one in, so dont care of damaging it!

[sean]

I suppose you could try and wedge it out with a screw driver but risk damaging some things. A slide hammer with a seal puller on the end works great.

[Ron]

I'm sure there is a good answer to that question but I'll have to mention that that was 129,000 miles ago ... it's still there.

No wonder they call it permanent, check it out (below):
Note it is only for 3/8"-16 and M10, steel nuts and bolts. I couldn't find our size.
I did see 500F on their site to remove it, "while turning" :wrenchin:
5576

[stevedmc]

Today I got off work a little early so I decided to ride over to the mechanic. After talking to him a few minutes I found out that he no longer has the same impact wrench.

Its a long story but basically he was renting his shop space from a tire shop. The tire shop went out of business, he took over the lease for the entire building, and the tire shop sold all of their tools.

He tried his air impact wrench and it didn't work. The good news is that he said he didn't use any thread lock when he put the nut on. So I shouldn't have to worry about heating the dang thing.

Now I'm going to be riding around town tomorrow visiting other mechanics and tire shops looking for someone that can get the sucker off. Oh boy.

[Ron]

The good news is that he said he didn't use any thread lock when he put the nut on. So I shouldn't have to worry about heating the dang thing.

Now I'm going to be riding around town tomorrow visiting other mechanics and tire shops looking for someone that can get the sucker off. Oh boy.

hmmm...That be the case, I'd forget about harming the shaft and ride a dead horse....put a cheater pipe on a breaker bar and set it to hold the nut while rolling it off with a push {Hears Steppenwolf (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMqVrUSz62o) in background}.

If a crappy clutch can't handle that torque, the nut will be easy to do while the trans is out.:wrenchin::angry_whip:

[Bitsyncmaster]

Not all impact tools are rated the same. Mine claims to have 1000 ft/lbs in reverse.

[stevedmc]

This &$*(#*& pulley is teaching me to cuss again. Last night my mechanic couldn't get the nut off with his impact wrench. Today I went to a tire shop and they couldn't get the dang thing off either. Then I went to a machine shop and the machine shop only had a wimpy 3/8 impact. Their impact was so weak they didn't even try.

I went to home depot and bought myself a small propane torch. I heated the nut for about a minute and still couldn't break the thing loose even with a breaker bar and cheater pipe. I repeated the process 2 more times with no success.

Now I've got a *&#(#( pulley that needs to be replaced, I'm sure the seal needs to be replaced now that its been heated, and the &@(#)( still won't come off.

I don't have the balls to push the thing and *#)($) my transmission. I'm starting to wonder if I should find a dremel tool and cut the #(#*$* nut off.

I would say now is time to take a vacation from Delorean land but I'm too stupid to do such a thing.

[Henrik]

Ha! Sorry for laughing but this is turning into some entertaining reading so even though I didn't have that much of a problem removing mine (used cheater bar) I will have to come back and see what you might do next. Good luck and stay calm!

[stevedmc]

Ha! Sorry for laughing...

@(*#$(@#$ DeLorean. Glad I could entertain you.

Originally I was just going to pull the timing/valve covers and then make my own gaskets out of RTV. Obviously the car will be out of service for a little while and I'm going to need a new crankshaft gasket since I put a torch on the bolt.

I went ahead and ordered new Felpro gaskets from Rockauto. Hopefully I'll have the pulley off before the parts come in.

Felpro Valve cover gasket set
Part #VS26090
$12.28

Felpro Timing Cover Gasket Set - Includes Crankshaft Seal
Part # TCS458411
$13.79

Shipping was about $11.

[Ron]

:hysterical:

I saw that.

Like I said in the other thread, deleting [or editing] your own posts don't count!

[stevedmc]

:hysterical:

I saw that.

Like I said in the other thread, deleting [or editing] your own posts don't count!

I didn't delete any posts or merge any. The only editing I did was to the part numbers. The merging and deleting were Sean's doing. This is probably one of the reasons Bill got all upset.

[sean]

I didn't delete any posts or merge any. The only editing I did was to the part numbers. The merging and deleting were Sean's doing. This is probably one of the reasons Bill got all upset.

This one is my fault. Steve was editing while I was merging. only ever happened once before.

[stevedmc]

This one is my fault. Steve was editing while I was merging. only ever happened once before.

Don't make me go redneck on you! I'm already pissed off as it is.

[Jacko]

Stay at it Steve ... that SOB will eventually break loose. When I was wallowing with mine I honestly was beginning to wonder if it would ever break loose but it did. I still don't understand why those nuts have to be so tight.

[stevedmc]

Stay at it Steve ... that SOB will eventually break loose. When I was wallowing with mine I honestly was beginning to wonder if it would ever break loose but it did. I still don't understand why those nuts have to be so tight.

That &#*@#*(#er just broke my 1/2 inch breaker bar! This time I heated it again, put my 35mm on it with a breaker bar, rested the breaker bar against the ground, disconnected the ignition coil, and bumped the starter.

I did this three times and on the third time it broke my *(@&@&@#*(#*#* breaker bar!

Edit: It broke the 1/2 inch extension off the end of the breaker bar that goes into the socket.

Edit again: Now I've got a &#*(#(# ed up pulley from putting a chain on it and a broken breaker bar.

Edit another time: And I did all this while my nosy, retired neighbor stuck his nose in my business. First he told me what I was doing would only tighten it. I put a piece of tape on the water pump belt and bumped the starter to show him the direction it turned and he shut up and told me I was right. Then he started running his mouth telling me the torch messed up the hydraulics in the engine and that they would have to be replaced. I told him I did what was suggested on this forum and that I didn't torch the thing more than a minute at a time. He still wouldn't shut up. I wish he could get the damn nut off for me.

[jmettee]

Not all impact tools are rated the same. Mine claims to have 1000 ft/lbs in reverse.

Got that right, I checked mine & it says max torque is only 250 ft-lb, yet it took my crank pulley nut off with no problem. (Sorry Steve)

This does teach a good lesson though...this is what CAN happen is a shop or owner uses a high powered impact wrench to install nuts as opposed to using a torque wrench properly.

Steve: How long is your cheater bar? If the shop had an impact wrench capable of 1000 ft lb, you would need 500 lb of force on a 2' bar or 333 lb on a 3' bar. You likely want something about 5'-6' to reduce your force to less than 200lb.

EDIT: just saw you broke your breaker bar. Was it a good brand or a Harbor Freight special? If it was a good brand, a careful use of a Dremel might be your only option....just be careful of the crank.

[TTait]

or a nut splitter...

[stevedmc]

It was a freaking harbor freight breaker bar. It has a lifetime warranty but of course I don't have my receipt. My cheater pipe only extended a foot or so past the breaker bar. I'm gonna go shopping today for a new breaker bar and longer pipe before I bust out the dremel tool.

[ramblinmike]

It was a freaking harbor freight breaker bar. It has a lifetime warranty but of course I don't have my receipt. My cheater pipe only extended a foot or so past the breaker bar. I'm gonna go shopping today for a new breaker bar and longer pipe before I bust out the dremel tool.

Man that sucks. I bought a Kobalt bar from lowes. I think it was 18.99 or so. I've stood on the thing and it has taken it like a champ. Good luck.

[stevedmc]

The plan is to drive to home depot in a few minutes and pickup a $20 breaker bar and a pipe while I am there. I also need another can of PB Blaster as well.

From now on I am taping my receipts to lifetime warranty products that I buy.

[TTait]

Steve...

When you have lost the receipt, you can't get a refund, but you can get a free replacement:

Lets say you going to Home Depot (the one on Coursey seems to be better stocked sometimes, but either one is pretty close to Sherwood), after you get your quality tools there, then head over to harbor freight and pick up a new one there too identical to the one you just broke, and keep that receipt.

I'll bet within a week you won't be able to remember which Harbor Freight one you broke. If your not sure, return the broken one with the new receipt and keep the new one. You can keep it in the car with a socket and call that your tire iron (just don't over tighten the lug nuts with it).

Tom

[Ron]

I still don't understand why those nuts have to be so tight.
With the nut and shaft getting hot and cold, over and over, and all of the vibration going on, you have to torque it that tight or it will work loose. Even if it was a smooth constant pull, so to speak, like with an electric motor, it takes a fair amount of torque to run the alternator, water pump, and compressor...all of which can cause forces in both directions (at the pulley).
The same are the main reasons why they are so hard to get off. It can take more torque to remove it after running the engine a long time, but not (necessarily) because it's "tighter", but because the friction surfaces embed into each other (threads and all).
Now add Primitive Pete with pneumatics and maybe some loctite....

:rant: <= Steve

[stevedmc]

Lets say you going to Home Depot (the one on Coursey seems to be better stocked

Wait a minute. Do you live in Baton Rouge? We are having a get together October 15th and you are welcome to join us if you are in the area.





:rant: <= Steve


Well my stupid self decided to try the breaker bar again. I ended up buying a new one at harbor freight for $6.40 with a coupon. It was on sale for $7.99 and I had a 20 percent off coupon. I believe the one at home depot would have cost $20. I then went to Home Depot and bought a 5 foot cheater pipe. I sprayed the nut again, put the torch on it, and that bastard still won't move. I should have picked up a dremel tool while I was at harbor freight.

Regardless, I now have a true lifetime warranty on my $6.40 breaker bar. I taped the bar code and receipt to the breaker bar. When that sucker breaks again I'll have my receipt handy.

[DMCMW Dave]

Sort of off-topic..

I generally find it quite a time-saver (and money in the long run) to buy quality tools that don't break. The warranty isn't helpful with something half apart on a Saturday evening.

Some HF stuff is pretty good, but anything that is **supposed** to take a lot of force generally doesn't at the worst possible time.

[TTait]

"Wait a minute. Do you live in Baton Rouge? We are having a get together October 15th and you are welcome to join us if you are in the area."

I used to visit a lot - I built the new exhibits at the Old State Capitol (the castle on North) - go see the Sarah Morgan show there...

[stevedmc]

It looks like I might be getting that nut off tomorrow. A friend from church called asking why I wasn't at church Wed night. I told her I ended up staying home Wed night because of car troubles and she offered to pray for the car situation. God willing, that nut is coming off one way or another tomorrow.

[TTait]

Dude, tomorrow is Sunday... If your gonna go that way - commit. Take the day of rest.

[DMC5180]

I'm assuming you have the car in gear, Parking brake on and wheels chocked. How much lurching of the car are you getting when apply all that torque with a long cheater. It's a tough nut to crack with all the spongy motion to take up. That's why a a big Air impact works best. Worst case take the car to shop the works on Truck's they will have the heavy duty stuff to get it loose. Once it is broke loose you can retighten it to say 100 lbft drive home and finally remove it for the work your trying to accomplish.

[stevedmc]

Dude, tomorrow is Sunday... If your gonna go that way - commit. Take the day of rest.

I just got home from church and stopped at HF on the way home. I'll have my rest when that nut is off the car.

[stevedmc]

The cheap HF dremel tool isn't doing a very good job. Perhaps it would be easier to just replace the stinking engine.

[Ron]

Some how I thought you were going to bring back a 3/4 drive impact and compressor...not being shy about returns and all.

[stevedmc]

Some how I thought you were going to bring back a 3/4 drive impact and compressor...not being shy about returns and all.

Walmart sells air tools and compressors. They have a very easy return policy. Hmmmm.

[Ron]

"Which of you shall have an ass or an ox fallen into a pit, and will not straightway pull him out on the Sabbath day?"

[stevedmc]

"Which of you shall have an ass or an ox fallen into a pit, and will not straightway pull him out on the Sabbath day?"

According to some people, the Sabbath was yesterday.

[Ron]

Win-win.

[stevedmc]

I just got home from making another purchase. This time I went to Autozone and picked up a 34mm socket. The 35mm socket kept slipping off.

I hammered the 34mm onto the nut and it is nice and snug. It ain't slipping off anytime soon. Then I put my breaker bar on it, and slipped a 5 foot cheater pipe on the breaker bar.

I rested the cheater pipe against the ground and then bumped the starter 10 times. The 34mm socket stayed on the nut and of course the nut still didn't budge.

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

[stevedmc]

The pictures should explain what happened. Now I'm gonna go get some fried chicken and ice cream. I deserve it.

[Jacko]

:wiggle:
The pictures should explain what happened. Now I'm gonna go get some fried chicken and ice cream. I deserve it.I'd like to be among the first to congratulate you on a job well done! I bet that fried chicken and ice cream will be a memorable meal.
As to you being able to straighten the pulley out ... I'm going out on a limb here ... doubtful.

[Ron]

May they Rest In Peace.

[sean]

Wow, that is one messed up pulley. Well, not sure it would matter to you but you are going to want to make sure you have the woodruff key at 12:00 when pulling the pulley or it may drop into the oil pan, of course that kinda thing seems to be the way you roll so you may want to disregard my warning.

[Delorean Industries]

Refurbished, used and NOS crankshaft pulley's in stock here at Delorean Performance. Let me know if we can help. [email protected] or 330 983 4737.

[stevedmc]

As to you being able to straighten the pulley out ... I'm going out on a limb here ... doubtful.

JB Weld will fix anything.

[dvonk]

The pictures should explain what happened. Now I'm gonna go get some fried chicken and ice cream. I deserve it.

congratulations! :aniclap:

for me, after i FINALLY get something that has been irritating me for so long i end up swearing up a storm at the stupid POS after giving me such a hard time.

come to think of it, i guess i swear at it the whole duration as well.

i just like to swear. :swear1:

[DMC5180]

That Trophy should be placed on your mantle. That was a rather creative way to hold the Pulley. Jeff Foxworthy would be proud :bigclap:


Seriously though, I'm glad you finally got it off regardless of how it was accomplished.

[Farrar]

The cheap HF dremel tool isn't doing a very good job. Perhaps it would be easier to just replace the stinking engine.

My girlfriend bought me a Dremel for Hanukkah last year. (No, we're not married yet.) Let me know if you ever need to borrow it.


According to some people, the Sabbath was yesterday.

Muslims, Friday; Jews, Saturday; Christians, Sunday.

Hang on -- God has a three-day weekend and I don't?!


Refurbished, used and NOS crankshaft pulley's in stock here at Delorean Performance. Let me know if we can help. [email protected] or 330 983 4737.

I'd go this route; Josh is a first-rate guy.


i just like to swear. :swear1:

Scientific studies have proven that swearing relieves pain.

Farrar

[dvonk]

Scientific studies have proven that swearing relieves pain.

haha, yes. for me, also stress & frustration! :hihi2:

[Ron]

Refurbished, used and NOS crankshaft pulley's in stock here at Delorean Performance. Let me know if we can help. [email protected] or 330 983 4737.Can we get nuts with that? :tongue:

[Delorean Industries]

Can we get nuts with that? :tongue:

Of course. Nuts in stock too.

[stevedmc]

Wow, that is one messed up pulley. Well, not sure it would matter to you but you are going to want to make sure you have the woodruff key at 12:00 when pulling the pulley or it may drop into the oil pan, of course that kinda thing seems to be the way you roll so you may want to disregard my warning.

I supose the notch on the pulley is what labels to position of the woodruff key. Anyway, I made sure the mark was in the 12 o'clock position before removing the pulley.

Right now my biggest fear is whether or not the crankshaft is bent. It looks fine but only time will tell.

[sean]

I supose the notch on the pulley is what labels to position of the woodruff key.

Yeah, there would be a notch in the pulley that is behind the nut. You want that cat at 12:00 unless you are still in thrill seeking mode.

[stevedmc]

Refurbished, used and NOS crankshaft pulley's in stock here at Delorean Performance. Let me know if we can help. [email protected] or 330 983 4737.

Email sent.

[Ron]

Scientific studies have proven that swearing relieves pain.
Isn't it funny how parents get to break all the rules?

[stevedmc]

I'm glad I never bought a replacement pulley. A guy in Canada was supposed to send me one for $40 plus shipping but its been weeks since I last heard from him.

Today I was looking around in my attic and I found a box of Delorean parts. In the box I found the pulley that goes to my spare engine!

My bent pulley is working so well that I am debating leaving it on though. Replacing the bent pulley isn't top priority right now but I'll do it when I get around to it.

Now I just need to figure out where I can get a new nut without spending the $25 that DMCH wants. Are there any places to get a nut that large?

[thegovernor9912]

try Mcmaster Carr, Fastenal or Grainger.


Was there locktite on the nut or was this another case of a mechanic that is allergic(i.e. to lazy and incompetent) to use a torque wrench?

[stevedmc]

try Mcmaster Carr, Fastenal or Grainger.


Was there locktite on the nut or was this another case of a mechanic that is allergic(i.e. to lazy and incompetent) to use a torque wrench?

I believe I posted this somewhere on this thread alread but here it goes again.

There was no locktite used. The mechanic who put the nut on used a torque wrench that he was borring from his landlord. I went back to him to get the nut removed and found out the people he was renting from went out of business. They sold all of their tools including the torque wrench he was borrowing. The torque wrench he owns now is not as strong as the one he was borrowing before that he used to install the nut.

[1batt4u]

A few years ago I wrestled with getting the crankshaft pulley off with no success. My trusted mechanic came to my shop to lend a hand ... no joy. Finally, in desperation I suggested we sacrifice the pully by using a 36" pipe wrench to hold the pulley. "I'll just buy another one" I said. Well, that pipe wrench, plus a cheater held it and the nut came loose. The next day I called Warren at DMCH to order one. Of course he told me they were no longer available. Well, crap! Ultimately Stephen agreed to pull one off a new engine since I had been ... 'a good customer' ... $269.00 !!

Lesson learned ... the old pulley now lives on the wall alongside other screw-ups.

I have a question. The very bottom of the pulley in the picture and a bit to the right, there is a small/tiny cutout on the pulley. There is also another one on the other side. What exactly are those for???

[DMCMW Dave]

I have a question. The very bottom of the pulley in the picture and a bit to the right, there is a small/tiny cutout on the pulley. There is also another one on the other side. What exactly are those for???

Timing marks. One of them lines up with the numbers on the scale when viewed with a timing light. The other one is just to confuse you.

[1batt4u]

Thanx for the info!! I am seriously trying to design a billtet aluminum pulley thats why I ask.
So if I were to do it, I would have to put one of the marks on it? And which mark from the two??

Thank you!!

[Delorean Industries]

Thanx for the info!! I am seriously trying to design a billtet aluminum pulley thats why I ask.
So if I were to do it, I would have to put one of the marks on it? And which mark from the two??

Thank you!!

Both marks are important. you can temporarily install the pulley while timing the engine and use the mark as a reference to check to second timing chain. Not entirely important but nice. If you are going to take the time to make something you might as well do it all!

[Bitsyncmaster]

You could put a chalk mark on one of the marks and see if that's the #1 cylinder with a timing light when the engine is running.

[DMCTek]

One of the marks is used to time with a trigger on cylinder #1 wire the other is used to time off cylinder #6. You can time with either mark. #6 is much easier to use if you have the airbox on.

[1batt4u]

I am done on the design for the Crankshaft pulley, ready to get a couple done!

I have the 2 timing marks there, exactly where the original ones are!!

Angle view, Side view, and Back view!
http://i46.tinypic.com/sgswo2.jpg

I am curious on the timing marks and how it works? Never done it or even seen anyone do it.

From what I can see the 2 timing marks on the stock pulley are identical in size from what I can see, correct??

PLEASE let me know if anything else should be done or corrected! ON my end everything is correct, size, shape, timing marks!

[1batt4u]

I just started a new thread for the billet aluminum crankshaft pulley!

You can answer my questions here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?4387-Billet-Aluminum-Crankshaft-Pulley&p=62593#post62593

[mluder]

After the saga of Steve removing his pully - mine came right off with an impact wrench and about 5 minutes of trying.

The question I have is - How to I put it back on to torque spec without the engine turning? I've already put the rocker covers back so I can't get to any of the sprockets.

I saw the post about using some loctite and - I figure that and the impact wrench will get it good enough.

Thoughts?

Cheers
Steve

[Jeff K]

I had to remove my OEM muffler. Then it came off easy with my impact wrench.

[1batt4u]

Torquing the Crankshaft Nut, what should it be??

Someone on here wrote: 230 or 250 ft-lb

In the book P.116 writes: 1976-77 = 160-180 NM (118-132 Ft. Lbs.) 1978-on = 240- 280 NM (175-200 Ft. Lbs.)

What is the correct torque number??

[1batt4u]

Anyone?? I'm on standby waiting for an answer.

[DMCMW Dave]

Anyone?? I'm on standby waiting for an answer.

Is it a stock one or your fancy aluminum version?

Either will work. It won't come off at 132. DMC spec is 135 with blue threadlocker. You probably can't get it any tighter than that by hand anyway, and an impact will get closer to 200 if you really lean on it.

"As tight as you can with a breaker bar", and some blue locktite should be sufficient. It's obvious given the discussion here that many of them are installed way too tight.

[1batt4u]

Is it a stock one or your fancy aluminum version?

Either will work. It won't come off at 132. DMC spec is 135 with blue threadlocker. You probably can't get it any tighter than that by hand anyway, and an impact will get closer to 200 if you really lean on it.

"As tight as you can with a breaker bar", and some blue locktite should be sufficient. It's obvious given the discussion here that many of them are installed way too tight.

At the moment its the stock pulley, but I did make a custom flywheel lock tool, testing it out. That's why want to know how much to torque it tops. I'll try 175 ft. lbs. since impact goes 200.

[DMCMW Dave]

At the moment its the stock pulley, but I did make a custom flywheel lock tool, testing it out. That's why want to know how much to torque it tops. I'll try 175 ft. lbs. since impact goes 200.

Why - to piss off the next guy who tries to take it off?

[1batt4u]

Why - to piss off the next guy who tries to take it off?

Huh?

[Ron]

Huh?
Anything over spec (135) is overkill, can be a PIA to remove,...and risks damage to the threads,especially with used parts...

[1batt4u]

I did all this as a test for a custom flywheel tool I made for the delorean.

This is the lock tool installed 16138

Here it is after I torqued the crankshaft nut to 175 ft. lbs. I put some strength into it and easily clicked on 175 ft. lbs. 16139

Here it is after I went back to it the next day to loosen the nut. I put some strength into it and easily came loose! 16140

[Ryan King]

Bump!

I bought the Crank Shaft lock tool that 1batt4u has advertised above this post. Got that thing bolted onto the transmission. (Great product, thanks 1batt4u!)

So I needed the correct MM sized socket from this thread, which looks like its a 35mm right?

And how do I get the "Woodruff" key in the right position? I currently have the whole car pulled apart as Im replacing the starter...but I have a nasty leak behind the pulley. New Seal on the way. I was planning on removing the nut with a large breaker bar and a cheat bar for extra torque. I don't have an impact wrench.

[DMC-81]

Hi Ryan,

Correct, the socket is 35 mm. I bought a regular size, rather than a deep socket version, which you won't need anyway. To get the woodruff key in the correct 12 o'clock position, I removed the nut and washer, and observed the position of the key, which I marked on the pulley. Then put the nut back on just tight enough to rotate the engine to get the mark lined up at 12. Then remove the nut. I used a basic gear puller to carefully remove the pulley without bending/damaging it. Here are a few pics of progress....

I used an air impact wrench, but a breaker bar should do the same thing..
40182

marking the position of the key...
40183

gear puller used....
40184

old seal...
40185

new seal...
40186

pulley reinstalled and torqued to 135 ft/lbs....
40187

Good luck with the job.

[Ryan King]

Thank you for the great info!! How do I line up the key? Obviously you don't just hand turn the pulley?? Or do you?

[DMC-81]

Thank you for the great info!! How do I line up the key? Obviously you don't just hand turn the pulley?? Or do you?

You're welcome. To line up the key:
- remove the nut (don't remove the pulley yet)
- remove the lock tool
- mark the position of the key on the pulley
- put the nut on again finger tight
- use your breaker bar on the nut to manually turn the engine clockwise until the mark that you made lines up at 12. (See the white paint mark in pic 2). It's easier to turn the engine with the spark plugs removed.
- put the lock tool on again
- take the nut off again. It will be much easier to remove. When you remove the nut, the key should be at 12. Verify this by the notch as pictured.
- Then you can remove the pulley.

Keeping the lock tool in until you replace the pulley is a good idea. Also, I mentioned a washer in my other post, but I guess the washer is combined with the nut.