BAE Turbo removal questions

[powerline84]

Hey guys,

I recently bought a car with a BAE turbo KIT installed on it. I plan on taking it off and selling it on here because I dont want it and am trying to return the motor to stock. My question is what mods are done to the fuel system and ignition system that I have to reverse? I plan on exchanging my fuel distributor and air metering valve with Josh at DPI anyway but I am trying to make sure I get everything covered. Rob already send me a stock W pipe. Any help appreciated.

thanks,

Jimmy4783947840

[FABombjoy]

Per the BAE manual there really aren't any fuel system changes. Some owners may alter the CO adjustment to richen the mixture.

The distributor has been modified to remove the secondary advance. You'll need to dissect it and see if the change is easily reversable.

If you want to remove any hobbs switches from the intake, you'll need some 1/8" NPT pipe plugs.

The oil drain is a -10AN and caps are available for fairly cheap. I would cap the fitting sticking out of the block rather than removing the fitting entirely.

BAE specified 1 step colder spark plugs that should be replaced.

The PO also seems to have installed some sort of catch can on the left side of the firewall? Would need much larger pics to see what that is all about :)

[David T]

To dissect the BAE turbo out you will need:
Exhaust system parts
Water pipes
Pipe plugs for the oil drain and vacuum switches
Recurve the mechanical advance on the distributor
There may have been modifications to the vacuum system feeding the CPR to undo
If there is a boost gauge that has to be removed
The BAE single turbo system is a pretty old system meaning it was introduced way back, early enough to be considered an original alternative turbo installation. It was contemporaneous to the Island Turbo which was a dual (twin) turbo system. It was not as popular but it was well known. Had a bit more turbo lag than the Island kit because it was a single, larger, turbo. If the motor is in good health my advice would be to leave it on. Make sure it is well functioning. It may require rebuilding the turbo (not expensive) and replacing some old hoses. If you want the original instructions I have a set. I am sure Josh can get it to work as it should if you decide to keep it. It is not worth much if you take it off and try to sell it. IMHO it has more value installed on the car and properly functioning.

[powerline84]

To dissect the BAE turbo out you will need:
Exhaust system parts
Water pipes
Pipe plugs for the oil drain and vacuum switches
Recurve the mechanical advance on the distributor
There may have been modifications to the vacuum system feeding the CPR to undo
If there is a boost gauge that has to be removed
The BAE single turbo system is a pretty old system meaning it was introduced way back, early enough to be considered an original alternative turbo installation. It was contemporaneous to the Island Turbo which was a dual (twin) turbo system. It was not as popular but it was well known. Had a bit more turbo lag than the Island kit because it was a single, larger, turbo. If the motor is in good health my advice would be to leave it on. Make sure it is well functioning. It may require rebuilding the turbo (not expensive) and replacing some old hoses. If you want the original instructions I have a set. I am sure Josh can get it to work as it should if you decide to keep it. It is not worth much if you take it off and try to sell it. IMHO it has more value installed on the car and properly functioning.

Dave that was exactly what I am starting to think. Ito not worth taking off at this point I'll just get it functioning I think .

Thanks guys

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Dave that was exactly what I am starting to think. Ito not worth taking off at this point I'll just get it functioning I think .

Thanks guys

It will probably need to be rebuilt. The BAE turbo had a common problem with burning oil as the oil seal is often fouled by a machining problem. The company went out of business by the mid 80's so parts are scarce to nonexistant.I think Bruce Benson researched the issue extensively and came up with a fix but I heard it 2nd hand IIRC. May as well check it out and see how it runs before you remove it. It it doesn't blow oil it will be pretty fast once it spools up.
Rob

[Andrew]

The BAE system is nicely designed and does add some HP. However, these systems seem to cause blow-by issues in the engine. Search the forum for discussions of blow-by issues for more information on this problem.

In October I removed 4194's BAE system due to blow-by problems and oil leakage. The removal itself took a few hours, but the process was generally eased by the fact that I had the exhaust apart last year.

When I removed the turbo I installed a distributor from a late 70's Volvo 262 due to the more aggressive advance curve. Thus, I don't know whether the BAE can be recurved back to the stock setting.

With regard to the exhaust system, after de-turboing 4194 I had a custom system made by a local exhaust shop from the crossover pipe back. When retaining the stock crossover pipe, the biggest challenge is the sourcing a flange to mate to the crossover pipe. Since I had an extra crossover pipe laying around, I cut the flange off the donor crossover pipe with a sawzall, then I had the shop weld-up the necessary piping. For a muffler, I used a Dynomax single inlet / dual outlet muffler which crosses to a mid 1980's Trans Am.

[Rich_NYS]

Jimmy,

I have a complete OEM exhaust I'll set aside; if you need any parts from it I'll bring them up this summer.....everything is good except for a dent in the muffler.

[David T]

The stock PRV can't handle anything over 6# of boost. Limiting to 5 is even better (gives you a small margin). You blow the lands between the piston rings and you start blowing oil out the filler. If you see any signs of oil on the output side of the turbo it needs to be rebuilt or if the impellers hit the housing or if there is too much end play. They are rebuildable but you have to find the right shop. It also MUST be rebalanced but any good shop can do that. I say try to get it to work and make sure the boost is limited to under 6#. Then decide what to do. At least if you take it off you know what the condition of it is if you try to sell it. If you do keep the turbo you must change the motor oil often and should use expensive synthetic. After a "spirited drive" you should let it cool down before shutting off the motor. There is no intercooler so you are not supposed to run in boost often or for extended periods. Driving with the turbo will be more fun! Just make sure it is all working as it should or you can do a lot of expensive damage to the motor.