Cheap/basic LED interior lights

[Chris4099]

For years I've had the basic LED lights that was common a few years ago. Not the brightest solution out there, but it worked well for me. Well, recently I upgraded my daily driver with some cheap SMD LEDs from eBay (shipped directly from China). I had a spare 16 SMD bulb left over and I decided to pop it into the D. I wasn't sure if it would even fit as it's a 39mm, not 36mm like my originals, but it did! The light output was fantastic and way better then I imagined. The 16 bulb version was also just big enough to fit. Any larger and it would not fit in the bulb housing without serious modification. Below is a pic of the original LED I had and the SMD one. These should set you back no more then $2 each after shipping:

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After this, I decided to give my D a basic overhaul on the lighting. Nothing as major as what Farrar or Bill have done. I didn't want to spend hours pulling apart parts of the interior. Basically similar to modern cars with foot well lighting. So I ordered up some 48 bulb SMD panels. These come with various socket adapters and should also cost less then $3-4 each on eBay after shipping from China. They also come with double sided tape. I mounted one on each foot well. The passenger side was stuck directly to the glove box and the driver side I used a piece of plastic that was glued to the knee pad (I used caulking which is strong enough but easy to break off if I want to remove this later without damaging the knee pad).

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My original plan was to tap off the front dome light wiring as it ran under the dash. However, I noticed that it joined the main wire harness way up in the dash making it very difficult to tap. So instead I decided to tap at the main bundle of diodes in the driver's foot well for the switched ground. It was the blue diode on the side with the two wires (not the other side that has a single wire going to it). While I could have gotten the positive side from any source, I wanted to use the courtesy light circuit as that was shutoff by the new light delay module Dave made. This way when my doors are left open for a certain period of time, these will auto shutoff. So I decided to tap into the glove box light which has easy to access wiring. The end result is below and took me less then an hour to get it done without taking apart the interior!

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Finally, the trunk. I used the same 48 bulb array with the included festoon adapter. Simply plugged it in and used the included tape to stick it to the trunk lid. Easy to switch back later if I wanted to. While not bright enough for me to use for landing a plane or performing open heart surgery like Farrar's, it's more then bright enough for me to find my stuff in there at night. :D

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So now my interior and trunk are more then bright enough for me to find stuff and get in/out of at night. Total cost for the 2 dome light bulbs and 3 arrays was less then $15. Only downside was I had to wait a few weeks for them to arrive from China.

[dvonk]

i love LEDs; i recently upgraded the interior lights in my Jeep TJ to LEDs that i got from dealextreme.com (https://www.dealextreme.com/c/car-led-light-bulbs-712). i am very pleased with the results, especially for the price! i got the 'cool white' 6500K temperature, and they are crisp and bright. they are based in China as well, so it takes a couple weeks to get them, but the shipping is free!

i dont know how they compare to SuperBrightLEDs.com (http://www.superbrightleds.com/) lights, but for a tenth the price, i dont really care. :) i plan on upgrading more (exterior, perhaps dash) later. maybe ill take some photos to post as well if anyone is interested...

[Dracula]

Nice. I've often thought about adding some form of interior lighting to my car, but have always held off on it for one reason or another. When I get home, I'm going to have to look more seriously into it.

[Spittybug]

I just got my shipment from DealExtreme as well. I am very impressed with the prices and the quality so far. I ordered 3 of the 9 LED festoon bulbs and they are just a smidge longer than ours in the overhead lamps. I simply had to bend a holding prong a bit. I did notice that they are just at the width to block the travel of the clear plastic lens and make the light flicker because the contacts aren't solid as a result. Easy, I simply scraped the top edge of the lens down a bit so that it doesn't touch the LED board. I also ordered a blue LED "rope" that I'm going to be trying out in the engine compartment to show off the engine through the plexiglass cover. Not too obtrusive, might give the right "glow" that I'm looking for. We'll see. I am planning on trying some more of their lights and supplement the footwell and other areas too. Neat site!

***Got the blue rope installed around the perimeter of my glass. It is bright enough to bathe the engine compartment while not so bright as to be obnoxious. I will try and post a pic, but my luck with low light stuff isn't good. I wired it to a lighted panel rocker switch that is mounted in one of the the blanks in the center console, next to the defroster.

[gtsmike]

For years I've had the basic LED lights that was common a few years ago. Not the brightest solution out there, but it worked well for me. Well, recently I upgraded my daily driver with some cheap SMD LEDs from eBay (shipped directly from China). I had a spare 16 SMD bulb left over and I decided to pop it into the D. I wasn't sure if it would even fit as it's a 39mm, not 36mm like my originals, but it did! The light output was fantastic and way better then I imagined. The 16 bulb version was also just big enough to fit. Any larger and it would not fit in the bulb housing without serious modification. Below is a pic of the original LED I had and the SMD one. These should set you back no more then $2 each after shipping:.

i am confused. the photo makes it look like they are the same length. what is the length of the original interior dome light for the DeLorean? i am finding 12 SMD in 36mm on ebay and it seems like that would fit better but a little less light.

[Chris4099]

On the right side you'll see the 16 SMD bulb extends a few millimeters past the other bulb (I lined them on up the left side). Original courtesy light holders are designed for 36mm bulbs. But as I discovered, you can cram a 39mm long bulb which allows you to put in a brighter bulb. The 16 SMD bulbs I used were just big enough both in width and length to fit. Any bigger and it won't fit.

Don't quote me on this, but I believe the replacement holders (with a silver not black trim around them) support 42mm bulbs.

[gtsmike]

Don't quote me on this, but I believe the replacement holders (with a silver not black trim around them) support 42mm bulbs.

oh great. the front dome is black trim and the rear is silver. i guess it is time to take them off and then measure it.

thanks

[gtsmike]

On the right side you'll see the 16 SMD bulb extends a few millimeters past the other bulb (I lined them on up the left side). Original courtesy light holders are designed for 36mm bulbs. But as I discovered, you can cram a 39mm long bulb which allows you to put in a brighter bulb. The 16 SMD bulbs I used were just big enough both in width and length to fit. Any bigger and it won't fit.

Don't quote me on this, but I believe the replacement holders (with a silver not black trim around them) support 42mm bulbs.

now i am really confused. i took the bulb out, i am not sure i did that right since it seems you have to take the bulb out from the holder from the side, and measured the bulb. this is a black trim on and it is 37.5mm not 36 or 42. any thoughts?

[Chris4099]

You measure them tip to tip. You may have some other size in there. Fortunately its not too critical. As long as it stays snug in there, thats whats important. Just know when buying a new bulb, you should be able to use anything from 36-39mm.

[Roman Legion]

I fitted my Mustang with some LEDs, but I need to add a load resistor to my rear lights and front turn signals to put LED bulbs in.. My trunk light, maplight and license plate light are pure white light and VERY bright. I have two bulbs for my reverse lights but the load resistor is needed. Can't wait to get that fixed so I can put LED tail light bulbs in!

[Ryan King]

Do you have a link to the exact ones you bought?

[Chris4099]

I generally don't like to link to eBay because the items will eventually expire. So for those reading this later on for the dome light, search eBay for "39mm LED 16":
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Dome-16-SMD-LED-Bulb-Light-Interior-Festoon-Lamp-39mm-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem43a544887fQQitemZ29053 5540863QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

For the panel, search for "48 SMD panel":
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Panel-48-SMD-LED-T10-36mm-BA9S-Dome-Festoon-Bulb-Base-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3f0b8ec0f9QQitemZ27077 6844537QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

But for now if the links work, these are the ones I got.

[Farrar]

I've been wondering about how the adhesive for my light bars will hold up in the extreme heat down here, so I may go with your 48-LED panel which looks also like a nice solution. How's the light? Can you change the fuel pump by it? Can you find tools in the bottom of your tool bag with it?

Farrar

[Roman Legion]

I might go with one of those panels for my Mustang's trunk light, how easy do you think that would be? Even with my current LED bulb, it can be hard to see the deep areas of my trunk; perhaps wire in a second light (LED panel) in the back area?

[Chris4099]

Here's a quick pic I took with my cell phone. It was taken in a closed garage with the lights out, so the light is from the 48 SMD panel alone. It would probably be fine for fuel pump maintenance when it comes to general illumination (flashlight would still be needed for looking inside the tank).

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I can't speak for the strength of the adhesive in high heat yet as it's been too soon. But worst case you can always peal the old stuff off and add your own that's much stronger.

They are great at dispersing light in all directions. However, you don't want to place these things in locations where you can easily look directly at it. I had one in the trunk of my MINI, but I was blinded every time I opened it. So in that case I had to remove it. But if the trunk is big enough to where you can place it say above and out of direct line of sight, you should be fine.

[Farrar]

Thanks! That looks good!

Farrar

[Ryan King]

I am so going to buy those 48 SMD bulbs for my foot wells. Thank you for the link. So you just taped them into the existing door lights in the Dashboard end-caps?

Or if you could, please take some photos of where you taped your wires into. I just want to make sure I do it right, the electrical system makes me nervous. I'd like for them to come on once the doors are opened and shut off when closed.

[Chris4099]

I learned in another thread there appears to be two wire harnesses that were used. If you are lucky, the wires to the front dome light are easy to access under the dashboard on the passenger side. Look under there (by the speaker) and if you see 3 wires coming from the pillar area, you are in luck. Just tap into those and the lights will come on when either door is open. In my case, the wires were tightly wrapped up and immediately went into a larger harness making access very difficult. If you have that, then you'll need to do what I did where I tapped the power from glove box light and switched ground from the diode cluster in the driver foot well.

Unfortunately I'm about to board a plane to California for a week, so no more pictures until next weekend. At least there are plenty others who have wired up foot well lights, so they may be able to provide pics if needed.

[Farrar]

If you can't find the appropriate wires, then you need to find another constant 12v source. The door plunger switches switch ground.

Farrar

[SIMid]

How do you pop off the cover for the interior lights without damaging them? (thought I'll ask before i break something)

Also, have you replaced the bulbs in the warning lights in the door and also in the rear license plate lights?

Mine has LEDs already in the interior and doors, but thought I could push them to the next level in brightness. :)

[Ozzie]

How do you pop off the cover for the interior lights without damaging them? (thought I'll ask before i break something)

It's not really so much as a cover as the whole housing that comes out.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ggWkXdvk5xU/ThtioEhivwI/AAAAAAAAAi0/UoBwiZ2XPw8/s1600/Dome+Light.jpg
You can try to just pull it out gently with your fingertips, or sort of angle it out. I suppose that if the plastic has "baked" more than others through time/exposure to higher temps, it may be more brittle and break.



Also, have you replaced the bulbs in the warning lights in the door and also in the rear license plate lights?
Yeah, DMCH even sells a kit for those, the door ones. The license plate ones are L=38mm festoons.



Mine has LEDs already in the interior and doors, but thought I could push them to the next level in brightness. :)
There was a huge improvement on my door lights in going from very old (5 years) LEDs, to modern ones. Very visible now during even sunlight.

Check out details for converting to LEDs at the doors and other locations, at my blog:
"100% LEDs..." (http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2011/07/going-100-leds-on-your-car-is-good-idea.html)
..and...
"Let LEDs light your wings" (http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2010/04/let-leds-light-your-wings.html)

[Farrar]

I decided to replace my license plate bulbs with LED modules after I noticed how dim they were the other night, and when I had a look I noticed that the lens covers were almost totally opaque thanks to thirty years' passage. Has anyone tried running with LEDs in the sockets but no lens covers? Would I be running any risks by doing so?

Farrar

[Ozzie]

I decided to replace my license plate bulbs with LED modules after I noticed how dim they were the other night, and when I had a look I noticed that the lens covers were almost totally opaque thanks to thirty years' passage. Has anyone tried running with LEDs in the sockets but no lens covers? Would I be running any risks by doing so?

Not me, but I've got two alternative options as recommendations:

a) Try taking it out and cleaning it. I thought the same at first, that they were not going to be usable since they were so opaque from the outside. Once I took them out, the lens cleaned up pretty good, and they worked well with the LEDs.

b) If the lens is really bad, you could always make a clear replacement. I don't recall it being anything other than a rectangle shape with two clearance holes on the long ends.

[Farrar]

Thanks for both of those tips, Ozzie! I will investigate tomorrow when the sun is up again. :)

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

I made some license plate LEDs using three standard LEDs and aiming them so half the plate on each side would be illuminated. They look very good and the white (bluish white) color really looks good.

I was thinking another possible alternative would be to just mount the LEDs in the top lip of the surround. Just a few small holes that would show only if you were looking up at them.

[Roman Legion]

Anyone have any experience with load resistors for changing brake lights and signals to LED?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Anyone have any experience with load resistors for changing brake lights and signals to LED?

Your defeating a major advantage to using LEDs if you put a load resistor on it. There is no advantage to loading the brake lights and if you install the correct flasher you don't need to load the signal lights.

[Chris4099]

As Dave said, no load resister normally needed on brake lights. However, if you have a cruise control system installed, I discovered that they don't like LEDs only. After a bunch of troubleshooting, I discovered the system I have needed less resistance (in other words, more load) across the brake lights to sense it properly. So what I ended up doing was adding a relay to the brake light circuit. No need to connect anything to the relay, just hook up the coil part. That put enough load on the circuit to make the cruise controller happy while still not putting any major load on the brake light system itself.

As for my license plate lights, I ordered some 3 SMD bulbs from autolumination.com back when I ordered the brake lights from them. I'm sure there's a cheaper eBay equivalent, but I think I paid about $5 each. Even though I had previously cleaned the lenses, the LEDs looked much brighter. The only thing is the ones I have are not rated for exterior use (no glass/plastic encapsulation around them). So I don't know if they will last. I smeared a lot of dielectric grease on them, so hopefully that will help prevent moisture damage.

[Roman Legion]

The resistor is very much needed, tried not using one with LED bulbs in my Mustang, but it seems that the car does not work well without one..

[Ozzie]

Maybe it has to do with the type of LED bulb used, 'cause I have no load resistors on the tail light LEDs (all: indicator, brake, driving, and reverse), and they work fine.

As has been said, you do need to swap the flasher relay for an LED compatible one for the LEDs on the indicator position, to blink when required to do so.

[Chris4099]

The resistor is very much needed, tried not using one with LED bulbs in my Mustang, but it seems that the car does not work well without one..

Newer cars have much more sophisticated electrical systems where even the lights are controlled by computer. They also do things like monitor electrical loads to insure the system is working properly. By changing those loads with LEDs, you trick the computer into thinking something is wrong.

The DeLorean on the other hand is pretty basic. The only need for a load resister on the turn signals is because the analog blinker flash rate is based on load. Replace the blinker with a digital one, and the need for a load resister goes away.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The resistor is very much needed, tried not using one with LED bulbs in my Mustang, but it seems that the car does not work well without one..

Make sure the socket wired the bulb correctly. +12 to the center pin and ground to the socket case.

[SIMid]

Thanks Ozzie! I'll have a play this weekend and check them all out and see what's in her. :biggrin:

[Ryan King]

For the instrument cluster, don't you need the first ones on this page for the illumination?

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fmini-wedge.html

.79 cents each right? And i believe you need 5 for the illumination? I have LED's in mine now..but they don't give enough light

[Ryan King]

For the instrument cluster, don't you need the first ones on this page for the illumination?

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fmini-wedge.html

.79 cents each right? And i believe you need 5 for the illumination? I have LED's in mine now..but they don't give enough light

Ignore my post

Nevermind, I found the right size. I just ordered a ton of LED's myself. I bought 3 of the 48 bulb panels. 2 for under the dash, and 1 for the trunk. Order 2 festoon bulbs for the existing dome lights. Bought a 10 bulb kit for the binnacle and I also bought two 12 led panels for some partial shelf lighting. I only paid 17 dollars with shipping. So. Freakin. Awesome.
Pictures to follow after installment.

[TTait]

Ryan, keep in mind that the plastic and metal versions of the dome lights may take different size festoon bulbs, check both to make sure you got the right lengths...

Tom

[Ryan King]

Ryan, keep in mind that the plastic and metal versions of the dome lights may take different size festoon bulbs, check both to make sure you got the right lengths...

Tom

I'll post photos up once I get everything installed. They should be the correct size.

So I finally got most of my LED's in the mail today. Some good and bad things about them though...

So here is how they arrived in the mail today straight from Hong Kong
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Here is most of what I got. I am still waiting on getting X2 12 LED SMD Panels
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So I was able to install the festoon bulbs very easily. For comparison, the one on top is from Houston's LED Update Kit back from a few years ago. Below is a 12 LED SMD Bulb. The courtesy light units are Martin's new ones which he sells on his site.
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Here is before with the Houston Bulb -
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And after with the Chinese SMD 12 Bulb -
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I love them so far. My only issue at this point is I ordered 10 new White LED bulbs for my Instrument Cluster. I already had LEDs in there before and was never satisfied with the amount of light they put out...so I thought new bulbs would change the problem.

Except now I still have poor lighting. They are very dim and not all the bulbs are lighting up. Which leads me to believe that my circuit board is just too far gone. The contacts for the plugs have been bent 1 to many times, so I think its time for a new one. Anyone else have this same issue?

Here is a photo of my Instrument Cluster prior to me putting in new LEDs. Notice how dim they are...

My friend Chris has LED's in his cluster and his shine so much brighter then mine. I don't understand it.

Any ideas? 3533

[Ozzie]

Here is a photo of my Instrument Cluster prior to me putting in new LEDs. Notice how dim they are...

My friend Chris has LED's in his cluster and his shine so much brighter then mine. I don't understand it.

Any ideas? 3533

I'll take a swing at it.

The LEDs that you need for the cluster's illumination, need to duplicate an incandescent bulb's much wider light beam coverage. LEDs individually have a very narrow field of light, so on larger bulb like a 1506 (tail lamps), they put LEDs not only at the end, but around the circumference to attempt to simulate a wider field of light coverage.

If you look at the cluster and how the bulbs fit in, and specifically the illumination (not indicator) bulbs, you'll see that they rely on the light to be pushed out the sides of the bulb, more so than straight forward.

I've redone my dash in LEDs, and used Superbright's 220 degree (which for LED bulbs is very wide) versions and they've worked great (picture below: incandescents on top pic, LEDs on bottom). I believe it was Justin who alternatively used wide angle SMD versions which also produced good results for him as well.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=2611&d=1310519710

[Ryan King]

I'll take a swing at it.

The LEDs that you need for the cluster's illumination, need to duplicate an incandescent bulb's much wider light beam coverage. LEDs individually have a very narrow field of light, so on larger bulb like a 1506 (tail lamps), they put LEDs not only at the end, but around the circumference to attempt to simulate a wider field of light coverage.

If you look at the cluster and how the bulbs fit in, and specifically the illumination (not indicator) bulbs, you'll see that they rely on the light to be pushed out the sides of the bulb, more so than straight forward.

I've redone my dash in LEDs, and used Superbright's 220 degree (which for LED bulbs is very wide) versions and they've worked great (picture below: incandescents on top pic, LEDs on bottom). I believe it was Justin who alternatively used wide angle SMD versions which also produced good results for him as well.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=2611&d=1310519710

Well I played around with my cluster a bit more tonight and have found that those little copper contacts for the plugs on the cluster are just so bend out of shape that I am going to need to get a new one. :(

Back to my Interior LED lights..

I tapped a 48 bulb SMD panel into the door plungers tonight, only to find that the circuit wasn't strong enough. The door lights would dim wayyyy down and it wouldn't allow me to run them at the same time as the festoon bulbs??? Weird. So what do I need to tap them into again to have them operate with the doors opening/closing?

hmm252000 - Do you mind taking a photo of underneath your dash of the way you wired things up? I am n00bish at this sort of thing.

[Chris4099]

hmm252000 - Do you mind taking a photo of underneath your dash of the way you wired things up? I am n00bish at this sort of thing.

The way I wired it up was a little more complicated become my wire harness is a little odd apparently. The easiest way is to tap into the wires coming down from the B pillar (these feed the front dome light). I've attached a picture of mine, but as you can see it's completely wrapped up in tape. Hopefully you won't have this and can easily tape the purple and purple/white wires. Just follow the passenger side door switch wiring up and it should be the first set of wires to join with it.

3565

If yours is like the picture above where you can't really access the purple and purple/white wires coming from the pillar, let me know and I'll try to post more detailed pictures of my install.

[Ryan King]

The way I wired it up was a little more complicated become my wire harness is a little odd apparently. The easiest way is to tap into the wires coming down from the B pillar (these feed the front dome light). I've attached a picture of mine, but as you can see it's completely wrapped up in tape. Hopefully you won't have this and can easily tape the purple and purple/white wires. Just follow the passenger side door switch wiring up and it should be the first set of wires to join with it.

3565

If yours is like the picture above where you can't really access the purple and purple/white wires coming from the pillar, let me know and I'll try to post more detailed pictures of my install.

Thank you for that Bill. Should I do the same with the driver's side too? Or do I need to run wire from driver's side to the passenger side?

[Chris4099]

My name is actually Chris (I really need to rename my handle).

You can use that spot for both lights. The advantage of using this spot is the lights will turn on with either door (like the dome lights). Just run a pair of wires behind the center console to power the driver side.

[Ryan King]

My name is actually Chris (I really need to rename my handle).

You can use that spot for both lights. The advantage of using this spot is the lights will turn on with either door (like the dome lights). Just run a pair of wires behind the center console to power the driver side.

Does tapping into those wires give the panels more power? I am just still wondering why they didn't work off of the door plungers.

[Chris4099]

I'm not sure what's causing this. Maybe a bad tap on the positive side? Where are you getting your 12+? We know the negative side is good if door lights are working just fine. Hook up the panel to some other 12V source just to make sure it's good. Or temporarily connect another panel in it's place. Either way will at least confirm you have a good panel before chasing electrical gremlins.

I used the dome light circuit because I wanted both foot well lights to turn on with either door. It also put the lights on the courtesy light circuit, so my new digital dome light controller would turn them off automatically along with the rest of my interior/door lights.

[Lenny]

I'd like to see a session on adding LED's to your delorean at DCS 2012. Show start to finish dash to brakes and if they want a car to work on I'll voulenteer mine :yesss:

I'll probably get in trouble but I'll double post this in the DCS 2012 thread.

[Ryan King]

I'm not sure what's causing this. Maybe a bad tap on the positive side? Where are you getting your 12+? We know the negative side is good if door lights are working just fine. Hook up the panel to some other 12V source just to make sure it's good. Or temporarily connect another panel in it's place. Either way will at least confirm you have a good panel before chasing electrical gremlins.

I used the dome light circuit because I wanted both foot well lights to turn on with either door. It also put the lights on the courtesy light circuit, so my new digital dome light controller would turn them off automatically along with the rest of my interior/door lights.

Maybe the door plungers have just enough juice to run the door lights. I think the courtesy lights run on a different source. Solid purple, when the door plungers and purple/blue wire.

[Chris4099]

The whole courtesy light system is based on switched grounds. So you can get +12V from any source and have them work when connected to the door plungers (as they switch the ground on/off to control the light). That's why I question the power source or the panel itself because if it was the plunger, then it "should" effect the door lights too.

Let us know the exact wires you tapped into.

[Chris 16409]

Im still having problems. Can I call you Chris? I am trying to do the mod right now and its a pain.

And I just realized I am signed in as my friend Chris. This is Ryan talking. Hah

[Ryan King]

First, I want to send a big shout out to Chris. Thank you Chris!

I was able to call Chris and he gave me a bit more insight and how to get things wired up and working properly. I was having difficulty getting the lights to come on with the doors. In the end, I wasn't tapping into the correct wires at the A-Pillar.

For future reference for other people wanting to do this mod-

Positive Wires - Purple Wire
Ground Wires - Purple/White

I stuck the passenger side panel to the glove box insert, much like what Chris did. And for the driver's side I attached it to the air box that is routed over the steering column. If I ever have to remove it for whatever reason, I can just disconnect the panel from the harness. Its very simple.

3648

In conclusion...
I love them!!!
It is A LOT brighter in person! Overall I am happy with the mod and I plan on putting a few more in over time. (No pun intended) I've enclosed a few night shots.

3649
3647
3645
3650
3646

[Chris 16409]

I was helping Ryan out with this, and I must say once we got it to work properly, I was impressed with the amount of light these LED board give off. I might consider doing this, but I'd like to try it with Warm LEDs instead. I have those in my dome lights and I like the way they look better. I think the warm LEDs in the footwells would look nice.

[Chris4099]

Glad to hear you guys got it working last night! Your pictures do a much better job then mine. Next upgrade would be the digital dimer module. That way the lights will turn on after turning off the engine but before you open the doors. They will also dim on and off. I highly recommend it!

[DeLorean03]

Thought I would add my video real quick about the tail lights. I changed them all to SMD LEDs. Here's the vid:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MBuS2z0zSc

[Ryan King]

Thought I would add my video real quick about the tail lights. I changed them all to SMD LEDs. Here's the vid:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MBuS2z0zSc

I still really want to put LED's for the running lights up front since those are on all the time while the headlights are on. You happen to have the correct size for those?

[DeLorean03]

I still really want to put LED's for the running lights up front since those are on all the time while the headlights are on. You happen to have the correct size for those?

Those will be 1157's. Two filaments: one for running, other for turn signals. Light you want is here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-1157-SUPER-WHITE-13-SMD-LED-PARKING-LIGHT-LAMP-BULB-/270801685164?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f0d09caac#ht_7912wt_1008

[dvonk]

DeLorean03, out of curiousity, did you use red LEDs behind the red lenses, or are they white?

ive heard that the white can look washed out since they dont emit a full spectrum of visible light, but i havent ever seen a comparison of red vs. white, so i dont know if it is actually true...

[DeLorean03]

DeLorean03, out of curiousity, did you use red LEDs behind the red lenses, or are they white?

ive heard that the white can look washed out since they dont emit a full spectrum of visible light, but i havent ever seen a comparison of red vs. white, so i dont know if it is actually true...

I used red LEDs in the red lenses and white LEDs in the white lenses (:

[Ryan King]

Those will be 1157's. Two filaments: one for running, other for turn signals. Light you want is here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-1157-SUPER-WHITE-13-SMD-LED-PARKING-LIGHT-LAMP-BULB-/270801685164?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f0d09caac#ht_7912wt_1008

Ill probably end up ordering these. I just made an order through "metapark" a few weeks ago and go them from China easily, but it took some time. So far the products are holding up great.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-1157-60-SMD-LED-Turn-Signal-Switchback-Light-Bulbs-/250872278356?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a69272d54#ht_4741wt_1165

[Bitsyncmaster]

I used red LEDs in the red lenses and white LEDs in the white lenses (:

My front running lights (and turn signals) are amber and so is the lens. Is your lens clear?

[DeLorean03]

My front running lights (and turn signals) are amber and so is the lens. Is your lens clear?

I have regular lights in the turn signals and running lights up front. I dont have the special lil 1156 for the back and 1157 for the front yet. I do have the relay ready though (:

[Ryan King]

Do you need a special relay mod to run LED's in the front amber markers under the headlights? "Daytime running lights?"

[Bitsyncmaster]

Do you need a special relay mod to run LED's in the front amber markers under the headlights? "Daytime running lights?"

Those amber markers don't need any wiring changes to use LEDs.

[DeLorean03]

So what do we need the special flasher relay for? I'm confused ):...

I plan on - down the road - ordering pair of 1156 LEDs for the back and a pair of 1157 LEDs for the front, installing the LED-friendly flasher relay, and everything working perfectly.

Anyone done this mod? Can someone shed some light on this?

[Farrar]

So what do we need the special flasher relay for?

You need it because LEDs draw considerably less current than incandescent bulbs. In order to get a proper blink rate, you need a flasher unit which uses a timer (not resistance) to determine how fast it turns the lights on and off.

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

I think your confused with the word RELAY used in the comments. Farrar got it right by calling it a flasher unit. You remove the OEM unit and install a new unit that works with LEDs. Cost about $10 at auto zone.

[Ozzie]

I plan on - down the road - ordering pair of 1156 LEDs for the back and a pair of 1157 LEDs for the front, installing the LED-friendly flasher relay, and everything working perfectly.

Anyone done this mod? Can someone shed some light on this?


I've now got all the tail lights in LEDs, documented in link in my signature.

Turn signal and hazard blinking works great with the LED compatible flasher relay, but I have noticed that the one that I bought (from SuperbrightLED.com) is not as loud as the stock unit. With windows down driving, it's easy to not hear it clicking.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I've now got all the tail lights in LEDs, documented in link in my signature.

Turn signal and hazard blinking works great with the LED compatible flasher relay, but I have noticed that the one that I bought (from SuperbrightLED.com) is not as loud as the stock unit. With windows down driving, it's easy to not hear it clicking.

The click is just the relay inside when it slams the contacts. You could try one from auto zone or open yours up and adjust the contacts so when it turns the relay power on the moving metal hits the relay coil core.

[Andrewh]

I actually just go into replacing some interior lights with LED's, replaced my two vanity mirror lights and two rear passenger lights. As far as I can tell from the description of the bulbs they give you with the kit, this will NOT work with a B5.5. I went to LED Lighting Hut (http://www.ledlightinghut.com/led-light-bulbs/automotive-led-light-bulbs.html)and went shopping around there.

[Dangermouse]

I actually just go into replacing some interior lights with LED's, replaced my two vanity mirror lights and two rear passenger lights. As far as I can tell from the description of the bulbs they give you with the kit, this will NOT work with a B5.5. I went to LED Lighting Hut (http://www.ledlightinghut.com/led-light-bulbs/automotive-led-light-bulbs.html)and went shopping around there.

And this is certainly not a bot. :fancy: Oh no sir, its not.:shhh:

Just follow my link and we'll say no more about it...................................

[Bitsyncmaster]

And this is certainly not a bot. :fancy: Oh no sir, its not.:shhh:

Just follow my link and we'll say no more about it...................................

I must be to old. What is "bot"?

I refered Andrew to here with his questions on facebook. He does own a D.

[Dangermouse]

oops, my mistake. Sorry Dave.

The forum have been getting several of these "automated robot" type entries, just a generic sort of spam. The are always new members and post some nonsense, like this guy

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?4368-ya-im-the-new-guy-here

I read his post as referring to a standard sedan vanity mirrors and rear passenger seat lights as just a spam post, useable at any car forum, to get us to go to his website (mainly as we don't have vanity mirrors or rear passengers)


:blush:

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well, I'm not really sure he has a D but the wording on face book made it sound like he did. I did think his comment would look suspicious since it was his first post so I see why you thought that.

[Ryan King]

Hey Dave,

I am thinking again about turning the Front Marker/Blinker lights to LED's to help save on Power Consumption.

What Flasher did you suggest I get so the LED's blink correctly? Something from AutoZone?

Are these the correct LEDs?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-T25-1157-Super-White-60-LED-Stop-Tail-Turn-60-SMD-Car-Brake-Light-Bulb-Lamp-/280861119172?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222001%26algo%3DSIC.CURRENT%26ao%3 D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D4996794757497850439%26pid%3 D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D5%26sd%3D270801685164% 26

Also, does anyone know the CORRECT SIZE for the Stock HeadLight/Hazard light switches for LEDs. I don't want a Blue/Red from Houston. I want to replace them with white LED bulbs.

[jmpdmc]

The LED size for headlight and hazard switch lights is #74. See here: http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2011/07/going-100-leds-on-your-car-is-good-idea.html The leads on the bulb need to be bent straight and clipped shorter to be no longer than the bulb base itself---if I remember correctly. A fuse will pop if this is not done.



Jeff

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hey Dave,

I am thinking again about turning the Front Marker/Blinker lights to LED's to help save on Power Consumption.

What Flasher did you suggest I get so the LED's blink correctly? Something from AutoZone?

Are these the correct LEDs?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-T25-1157-Super-White-60-LED-Stop-Tail-Turn-60-SMD-Car-Brake-Light-Bulb-Lamp-/280861119172?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222001%26algo%3DSIC.CURRENT%26ao%3 D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D4996794757497850439%26pid%3 D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D5%26sd%3D270801685164% 26

Also, does anyone know the CORRECT SIZE for the Stock HeadLight/Hazard light switches for LEDs. I don't want a Blue/Red from Houston. I want to replace them with white LED bulbs.

Those LEDs will probably work fine. The blinker from any car parts place that states "works with LEDs" should also work fine. My LEDs are getting pretty old now and there may be better ones like you guys are finding. Mine had 18 or so LEDs. In the switches, I soldered an LED inside and put the current resistor in the harness.

[DeLorean03]

Hey guys,

Sorry to revive old threads, but I am trying to learn how to do this one, and I think maybe my wiring harness is a bit different than you guys' harness.

I've been reading this and other footwell LED threads a bit today. So, let me get this straight, you guys are tapping into a 12v+ purple wire -is there any one particular one, or just any purple wire that has power? I read you guys are utilizing the purple wire that goes to the dome light, and that on some cars it is near the speaker on the passenger side. Has anyone been in a situation where that wire is not near the passenger speaker (like me) ?

Second, you guys are using the p/w wire for ground? How exactly are you guys doing this? I would think if you tap into these two wires, the LEDs will stay constantly on. Are you guys utilizing the P/W wire that connects to the passenger door light switch?

I've read this thread a bunch of times, and there's a lot of "I did this, but he did that, and the 3rd guy did something totally different..." kind of information, which is good, but I feel like I'm not following any one path. Can someone describe (preferably with photos) exactly what they did and what was utilized?

Thanks everyone!

[DeLorean03]

Nevermind - I figured it out with help from HillBillyDMC.

[sdg3205]

From Superbright, I used:

1 x C21-I36: Interconnect-36 Inch Long $0.99
1 x C21-P36: Power-36 Inch Long $0.99
1 x RLBN-CW30SMD: Cool White $9.95

1. Cut the strip of LEDS in half
2. Cut one end off your connector cable
3. now solder the bare wire end to the end of the strip you cut that no longer has s connector
4. Mount the first half on the bottom of the glove box
5. tie power into the + (purple) and - (purple white) running up the RH/PS A-pillar
6. route the connector cable through the centre console
7. mount the second strip somewhere convenient on the drivers side
8. plug it into the connector

[Riley88]

I love LEDs. I had some in my wrangler and also had 4 rigid industries led spotlighta. My poor jeep was stolen recently. But it's because of that I'm able to buy my delorean now:) things went better than expected

[88KPH]

Nevermind - I figured it out with help from HillBillyDMC.


Okay, good picture, I could follow that. But I don't really understand why.
It's constant live & the Earth is switched by door switch?
Can someone, in basic terms, explain if that is happening?

[BABIS]

Okay, good picture, I could follow that. But I don't really understand why.
It's constant live & the Earth is switched by door switch?
Can someone, in basic terms, explain if that is happening?

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=17861&d=1364968206

[88KPH]

Ahhhh, another nice pic. The mist is clearing.
So are we saying that the LED's wired as in Delorean03 picture above, that they would utilise the delay unit. Because that would be a nice feature.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Ahhhh, another nice pic. The mist is clearing.
So are we saying that the LED's wired as in Delorean03 picture above, that they would utilise the delay unit. Because that would be a nice feature.

If his purple/white wire is the correct one, yes.

[88KPH]

How do you know its the correct one Dave? Trace it, test it?

[Bitsyncmaster]

How do you know its the correct one Dave? Trace it, test it?

Ohm meter (continuity test) from the purple/white wire at the dome light to the one you want to connect to down on the diodes in drivers foot well.

[88KPH]

In the picture he's connected on Passenger side.
Does the Ohm test matter if the door/switch is open or closed?

[Bitsyncmaster]

In the picture he's connected on Passenger side.
Does the Ohm test matter if the door/switch is open or closed?

If you pull the wire off the dome light it would not matter what else is on or off. When ever your doing an ohm meter test you should pull one wire end off to read the resistance of the wire only.

[88KPH]

I'll look at the weekend.
Just to confirm, Dome light is what we would call the 'interior/courtesy light' above the mirror?