DMC Spax Shocks Reviews and Driver Adjustment Settings

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I received my DMC Spax adjustable shocks today. Thanks so much Dave and Julee at DMC Midwest for the heads up and super-fast service!

I will be putting them on within the next week or two.

Those of you who have them, what are your thoughts?

What settings do you have the front and back adjusted to for cruising or spirited driving?


http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/305306_10150780749575696_671145695_20629141_202422 2344_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/304805_10150780751875696_671145695_20629147_953708 12_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/315801_10150780757720696_671145695_20629166_197797 4420_n.jpg

[Domi]

Black with DMC logo, looks like the ones into the Eiback kit?

[A Van]

They are specially produced in that colour at the Spax factory for DMCH

Josh are you running rubber or polybushed suspension?

Those on polybushes tend to run on a softer setting

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

[DeloreanJoshQ]

They are specially produced in that colour at the Spax factory for DMCH

Josh are you running rubber or polybushed suspension?

Those on polybushes tend to run on a softer setting

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

My car has a poly sway bar bushing set, poly trailing arm bushings, LCA brackets, DMOCO frame brace...everything else is stock (stock control arm bushings)

So i would probably run a firmer setting?

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Regarding setting the adjustments.....
I had one fellow Delorean owner tell me to start the rears at 6 clicks and the fronts at 4 clicks. This is after turning the knob all the way to the left until it stops which would be the softest setting....

[FABombjoy]

I think I'm about the exact opposite... all the way up, then 6-8 clicks back, but I typically drive in a spirited sort of fashion and despise body roll. :fancy:

If / When one of these rear sway bar kits ever comes out, I'll probably revisit those settings.

[SIMid]

Josh, did these babies come with a key to adjust the ride height settings, or you just use your hand with no weight on the wheels?

[stevedmc]

I highly recomend that you tighten to the firmest setting and make your adjustements from there. I believe there are 28 settings (someone please correct me if I am wrong).

If you want the softest setting, turn the knob as tight as it will go, and then turn it 28 clicks to the left.

There is a reason I recomend making your adjustments from the tightest setting and not from the lowest setting. I have one of the early sets of Spax shocks. The early sets had a smaller adjustment knob than the new ones and they were very difficult to turn.

One day I decided to adjust my rear shocks to the lowest setting and was having trouble turning the small knob. I decided to turn it with a screw driver as there was a small screw in the middle. I did not count the clicks and the knob turned very easy once I started turning it with a screw driver. Within seconds the knob came off and all of the fluid flew out of the shock. I was not able to get the shock rebuilt and had to replace it.

It was a very expensive mistake and I would hate to see anyone else do the same thing.

[stevedmc]

Josh, did these babies come with a key to adjust the ride height settings, or you just use your hand with no weight on the wheels?

They don't come with a key for adjusting the rear height settings. You need to either adjust them by hand before installation or you can adjust them after installation with a special tool. I believe there is some info on the UK forum about the tool.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/100/122/122-T114W.jpg

I believe you need a tool set like the above to tighten it correctly; not sure if hand-tightening will lock the two rings together properly.

if you go to www.jegs.com and in the search box type "shock tool" or "spanner" you will see options...

I will be installing my shocks tomorrow morning at Dave Bauerle's. If I need the tools, I am very lucky to be 5 minutes away from Jegs main warehouse to run over and grab whichever set I need if Dave doesn't have a set...I'm sure he does though...

I'll be sure to put pics up and report my adjustment findings....

Josh Q

[stevedmc]

Another recomendation of mine is to not use the middle bushing washers on the front shocks. I installed my front Spax shocks with these and over time they broke. They are not very thick metal and what happened was they ended up collapsing, resulting in loose shocks. I did not find out about this until after my front shock bushings were destroyed.

My recomendation is to only use the lower and upper washer and to fasten the bushings directly the the shock tower. I believe this is how many other delorean shocks are and I'm not sure why Spax chose to be different. Make sure the washers you use are the thick ones.

Disclaimer: If I am wrong please correct me because I want to know. It is possible the washers could now be thicker since I purchased one of the first sets of Spax shocks. I already know the newer units have larger adjusting knobs than my older unit.

[Chris 16409]

Steve,

I had a similar problem. I was able to get some nicer washers and installed those instead. My buddy Ryan bought some polly bushings locally to use with his Easy Riders, and had some extra washers that came with the set. So I hijacked, I mean "borrowed" a few of them. I haven't had any problems since.

[SIMid]

Thanks Steve for the replies. I'm dropping the D off tomorrow at a suspension place and pass them the information. I'll probably set them to the hardest and then go from there.

As for ride height, whats ppls recommendation on the rears to how high they sit? I'm putting in Eibach springs. Julee recommended 6inchs from the base (bottom bolt) up if that makes any sense?

[stevedmc]

Thanks Steve for the replies. I'm dropping the D off tomorrow at a suspension place and pass them the information. I'll probably set them to the hardest and then go from there.

As for ride height, whats ppls recommendation on the rears to how high they sit? I'm putting in Eibach springs. Julee recommended 6inchs from the base (bottom bolt) up if that makes any sense?

The fronts are extremely easy to do. You can swap out the front shocks without any special tools and you don't even have to remove the springs. It takes about 5 minutes each side to replace the front shocks.

The rears are a little dangerous since you do have to remove springs. When they install them, be sure you remind them of the knobs and that you want them facing inward. The rear shocks will take about an hour each side.

[SIMid]

The fronts are extremely easy to do. You can swap out the front shocks without any special tools and you don't even have to remove the springs. It takes about 5 minutes each side to replace the front shocks.

The rears are a little dangerous since you do have to remove springs. When they install them, be sure you remind them of the knobs and that you want them facing inward. The rear shocks will take about an hour each side.

Thanks again! I hope I remember to tell them all this at 7am in the morning! :lol:

[Jacko]

I received my new Spax shocks a couple of weeks ago from Houston. I'm trying to learn as much as I can about them and height adjustable shocks in general by reading old threads, etc. I've replaced shocks and springs on the D before (many years ago) and I recall I had a lot of trouble with the spring compressors I had. So this time I ordered a kit of spring compressors which has two units, one for each side of the spring which seems like a great improvement over the ones I had that had to work inside the spring ... I've not received them yet.

I'm hoping it becomes clear to me when I get under the car but the two adjustment rings on the rears ... does the spring perch sit on the top one and is the bottom one a locknut? I would certainly appreciate a pic of a rear shock installed so I can see how it stacks up. Also, these rings appear to be made of plastic ... surely not. I just learned, in this thread, that the adjustment knob should be on the inside. The literature and instructions that came with the shocks don't mention that.

And another thing ... when I received the shocks the instructions stated that only the enclosed spanner should be used to make adjustments ... no spanner included.

I certainly didn't intend for this to turn into a rant but it appears that it may be. When I received the shocks I was mildly surprised that they were black and not yellow as Spax shocks typically are. In all their advertising and discussions Houston mentions many times that they have these shocks specially made for them and they are powder coated black, not yellow. I just missed it. And that is well and good but I come from an era when one added an aftermarket performance enhancing part they liked to call attention to it. When anyone is following 4915 they will notice the Spax shocks on her ... I painted mine Spax yellow and did a respectable job I think.

Again, I'm not bitching about anything ... especially not the good folks at DMCH ... I'm just typing a few thoughts. I'll put these suckers on as soon as the compressors come in and I'll post a picture when done. I'll also post a picture of skinned knuckles if they occur.

[Rich]

I'm hoping it becomes clear to me when I get under the car but the two adjustment rings on the rears ... does the spring perch sit on the top one and is the bottom one a locknut?

Yes, exactly so. The OEM Girlings have a fixed rear spring perch, no such adjustable collar nuts.

[stevedmc]

So this time I ordered a kit of spring compressors which has two units, one for each side of the spring which seems like a great improvement over the ones I had that had to work inside the spring ... I've not received them yet.

You don't need spring compressors to change the front shocks. But if by some chance you are changing the front springs you will obviously need spring compressors.

You will need spring compressors to replace the rear shocks. The rear springs have to come out.

Front springs are best removed with a Mcpherson coil compressor available on ebay for about $80 shipped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MCPHERSON-STRUT-COIL-SPRING-CLAM-COMPRESSOR-MACPHERSON-/250826637329?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3a666ec011

The Mcpherson coil compressor will not work on your rear springs. I tried it and it didn't work due to access issues. Rear springs can be removed with the free spring compressor at Autozone which looks something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Coil-Spring-Compressor-Tool-Manual-2-Piece-Set-/360391553617?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item53e902b251

[FABombjoy]

You will need spring compressors to replace the rear shocks. The rear springs have to come out.
Technically, you don't even really need a compressor for the rear. The procedure that uses a jack instead of a spring compressor has worked well for me a few times.

[jerzybondov]

I would recommend against setting the Spax's on the firmest setting, you will get horrible secondary ride characteristics. Most of the UK owners are set towards the softer end of the spectrum. I'm on 9 up from the softest and that gives a good compromise of comfort v handling.

Re ride height on the rears - with the original springs you want to have the adjusters pretty close to the bottom. Mine are about 1cm off the bottom, and that gives about 2 fingers (sideways) width of wheel gap between the tyre and the body. You don't necessarily need the special tool to adjust them - I simply used spring compressors to take the load off the spring perch and got busy with a hammer and chisel thing to knock it round.

[stevedmc]

Technically, you don't even really need a compressor for the rear. The procedure that uses a jack instead of a spring compressor has worked well for me a few times.

I use a jack and a compressor. First I compress the spring as much as I can and then I place a jack under the shock. I then give the jack a few taps (it has wheels on it) to move the shock off the stud.

Even with the spring compressed it still jumps. I'd be to scared to do this without compressing the spring. To me it seems like it would be an efficient way to lose your face.

But to each his own. The compressor works for me and I just like being careful. If your method works then thats good for you. I would just hate to see someone get injured.

[chris williams]

As the person who had these developed in conjunction with Spax and ran the first two sets of trial ones I would like to point out that the design was that (for the rears) that the middle of the threaded section should match (using OE rear springs) the origional rear ride height of a DeLorean. Likewise the middle setting on the small adjuster was supposed to be as per OE, however it seems this may be a bit to firm for most.
Hope this helps
Chris

[outatym2001]

Those of you who have them, what are your thoughts?

What settings do you have the front and back adjusted to for cruising or spirited driving?

I had the SPAX shocks fitted by DMC Northwest in Bellevue, Washington. I was the first to have them fitted by DMC NW so we tried 14 clicks above the softest setting on all four.
I didn’t like it. It was WAY TOO FIRM. It felt like I was driving a lifted truck with eight shocks. I did like however going around bends at twice the posted speed limit. I scared myself a few times.
I tried 4 clicks softer after several days. Then I tried 4 more clicks softer. Then 4 more softer until I reached the softest setting available.
I will stay at the softest setting available because I like it that way. I have the original springs on the rear and PJ Grady lowering springs on the front.
And all the old rubber suspension bushings have been replaced with NOS rubber and some new rubber.

[opethmike]

I use a jack and a compressor. First I compress the spring as much as I can and then I place a jack under the shock. I then give the jack a few taps (it has wheels on it) to move the shock off the stud.

Even with the spring compressed it still jumps. I'd be to scared to do this without compressing the spring. To me it seems like it would be an efficient way to lose your face.

But to each his own. The compressor works for me and I just like being careful. If your method works then thats good for you. I would just hate to see someone get injured.

I couldn't agree with you more, Steve. The springs are under some really serious tension, and considering the extent of the injuries one could occur if they flying out makes it foolhardy in my book to not use proper spring compressors. If one wanted to be really careful, safety chains could be used as well.

[Jacko]

As I get prepared to install the rear Spax adjustable shocks (installed the fronts today) and the spring compressors didn't arrive today I suddenly thought of something ...

I lowered 4915 years ago by cutting the springs (didn't move front to back, etc.). I like the way she sits. I don't remember specifically how much I cut off the rears and now I'm wondering how this will play out when I put the shortened springs on the Spax adjustable shocks. I can see where the adjustment rings will have to be moved pretty close to the top of the threads to compensate for the shorter than stock springs.

Will I have to buy new stock springs? :dunno: Can someone tell me the free standing height of the stock springs? :confused0:

As always any feedback is appreciated.

[dmc6960]

If you like how it sits right now then there is no issue. Just measure the position of the spring cup where it is right now and put the adjusters in the same equivalent spot. Walla! No change.

[Jacko]

If you like how it sits right now then there is no issue. Just measure the position of the spring cup where it is right now and put the adjusters in the same equivalent spot. Walla! No change. ...well, that's simple enough, and logical too.

Thanks, Jim

[robvanderveer]

Perhaps it has been said, but which way to click for a softer ride? Clockwise or counter?

[dmc6960]

Perhaps it has been said, but which way to click for a softer ride? Clockwise or counter?

Counter

[robvanderveer]

Much appreciated, Jim.

[Jacko]

... okay, I had a busy day. The spring compressors came in so I was out of excuses.

Compressing the springs, doing the shock swap was surprisingly trouble free. I credit the compressor's design for that. It is the same as the ones that Steve suggested. I bought these from "The Battery Man" (on Amazon.com) for slightly over $16.00. I couldn't get both hooks on a coil so I just hung one hook on each end. Ran 'em down with an air ratchet and the spring/shock came right out as easy as that.

The surprising thing was I discovered the driver's rear spring had a bend in the wire at the top (pic below). This was a spring I ground off, no torch or excess heat involved. It doesn't seem possible the wire could bend like that. That bend caused the D to sit a little lower than the right side. I had noticed for some time that the driver's side was lower but I thought it was because of my lard ass sitting on that side. When I put it all back together I compensated for the bend by adjusting the shock a little higher ... maybe a half inch. I'll have to play with it when I get it on the ground.

Also pictured below is 4915 sitting on three jackstands. As I was working I noticed the space and slid it out for the picture. Of course it wouldn't do that with one of the rears missing but I just found that interesting.

I still have to replace the rubber bushings in the front (anti-roll bar, etc.), tie rod ends, change the oil/filter while she's in the air and then I'll try out these Spax shocks. For starters I set all four on eight clicks from softest and I'll go from there.

Thanks Steve, Jim and others for your advice ... made it a lot easier!

[DeloreanJoshQ]

VIN 3307 finally has the Spax shocks installed and they are awesome! Great ride!
Currently I have the fronts set at 4 and the rears at 6. For now it seems to be a great combo. I went over a few railroad tracks with relative ease compared to the previous shock set-up. Take-off and braking also showed noticably less dive and lift....overall less pitch and roll....I'm excited to do more testing...Today I had to drive through rain to and from Dave's shop so the car was a mess underneath.....

It took me approximately 6 hours to complete. Below is what I encountered during my first shock replacement; You be the judge on whether I did it correctly or not/at-your-own risk for followers...

The fronts have the lower control arm brackets installed and I had to spend time making sure the washers, brackets, control arm and shock was lined up for the bottom bolt during re-installation. The top of the shock was easy because the lock nuts were not rusty and the shocks were replaced 5-10 years ago. One of the front shocks was bad; they are PJ Gradys, but are quite old. I did use the bushing cups that came with the Spax shocks, but made sure to adjust them in the seat of the shock tower so they didn't sit cock-eyed. I tightened down the first nut until the shock started spinning and then used a vice grips to do just a little more tightening. I then put the lock nut on top. The lower bolt needs tightened to 40 ft lbs.

The rears were 30-year-old originals and suprisingly were both still good. The top nuts on both of them were seized up and I had to use an air cut-off wheel on both sides to free them. The car was up on the lift and a tranny jack was used to support the bottom of the hub and shock assembly. A spring compressor was not used due to space, but the tranny jack was modified in a way with brackets to "box in" the bottom of the shock so that it wouldn't slip away under the pressure of the spring. Installation was not bad. the lower bolts were again torqued to 40 ft lbs. The upper nuts followed the same procedure as the fronts.

After the shocks were replaced I took the car for a ride to help the suspension settle.
I then measured the car at 12 different places (jacking points, front and rear bumper on both sides, tire to fender gaps). I found the passenger rear was up about 7/16" so I had to adjust the corresponding rear shock collar lower to close the gap. I then took the car for another drive to re-settle.

As of right now, all of the 12 measurement points are within a 1/4 of an inch of each other front to back and left to right so I am satisfied. I have a 1/4 larger gap at the rear tire to fender vs. the front tire to fender. I would like to have made the gap equal but I am happy for now.

Below are pictures.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/303041_10150808732545696_671145695_20827346_113494 7713_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/299927_10150808733585696_671145695_20827362_213498 3035_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/310528_10150808730710696_671145695_20827323_571207 588_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/293601_10150808727315696_671145695_20827287_493477 396_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/296180_10150808728165696_671145695_20827295_138502 2156_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/311715_10150808728775696_671145695_20827300_331499 583_n.jpg

[Jacko]

53825383
So, after I put the Spax shocks on I finished the other suspension work ... replaced rubber bushings with rubber bushings (no poly), tie rod ends, brake pads and changed the oil/filter. I set all four shocks at 8 clicks from softest for starters before heading out. I'm no expert at this and the rear seemed solid but the front was a little hard and bouncy. I can't get to the adjustment knobs without jacking her up and even then it was hard to get a grip on the knob. I finally settled on using a 19 mm long barrel, six point socket which fit the knob perfectly and I could grip it easily ... no handle, just the socket. I set the fronts at 6 clicks and left the rears at 8. Back out I go. Again, I'm no expert at this and I have tried several different combinations so far. I'll continue to experiment and learn more about them but I like the fact that I can firm them up for spirited driving if I want to and soften them when I want.


I like the way she sits ... I measured the height of 4915 at the T panel ... 43 inches.
Hard to believe as low as she is but there is no rubbing the fender on either side. I'm sure I could make it rub but with a little caution I've experienced none.
I'm usually in the D alone and I want her to be level when on the road so I adjusted the driver's side rear shock about 1/4 inch higher than the right.

I'm pretty happy.

EDIT - I'll add one thing ... The stock shocks I took off were still performing well. I put them on in September, 1995.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

53825383
So, after I put the Spax shocks on I finished the other suspension work ... replaced rubber bushings with rubber bushings (no poly), tie rod ends, brake pads and changed the oil/filter. I set all four shocks at 8 clicks from softest for starters before heading out. I'm no expert at this and the rear seemed solid but the front was a little hard and bouncy. I can't get to the adjustment knobs without jacking her up and even then it was hard to get a grip on the knob. I finally settled on using a 19 mm long barrel, six point socket which fit the knob perfectly and I could grip it easily ... no handle, just the socket. I set the fronts at 6 clicks and left the rears at 8. Back out I go. Again, I'm no expert at this and I have tried several different combinations so far. I'll continue to experiment and learn more about them but I like the fact that I can firm them up for spirited driving if I want to and soften them when I want.


I like the way she sits ... I measured the height of 4915 at the T panel ... 43 inches.
Hard to believe as low as she is but there is no rubbing the fender on either side. I'm sure I could make it rub but with a little caution I've experienced none.
I'm usually in the D alone and I want her to be level when on the road so I adjusted the driver's side rear shock about 1/4 inch higher than the right.

I'm pretty happy.

EDIT - I'll add one thing ... The stock shocks I took off were still performing well. I put them on in September, 1995.

Looks great! Out of curiosity, what is the measurement from the jackpoints of 4915 to the floor for the front and rear? Mine is 5 3/4" at the rear and 5 1/2" at the front, give or take 1/4"....this with PJ Grady lowering springs on the front and stock springs on the rear...

[Jacko]

Looks great! Out of curiosity, what is the measurement from the jackpoints of 4915 to the floor for the front and rear? Mine is 5 3/4" at the rear and 5 1/2" at the front, give or take 1/4"....this with PJ Grady lowering springs on the front and stock springs on the rear...Good morning Josh, I have some measurements.

Remember I wanted the D to sit level with a driver aboard.




Front jacking points - left - 4 1/8" right - 4 "

rear jacking points - left - 4 5/8" right - 4 1/2"

wheel arch to floor - left front - 22 5/8" right front - 22 1/2"

wheel arch to floor - left rear - 25 5/8" right rear - 25 1/2"


I achieved the front measurements by cutting the stock springs to
a free standing height of 12 3/4"

shout if you want more.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I made some adjustments this morning.
I bought the below spanner wrench set at work and it does the job(you only need one of the two wrenches in the set):

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/81800/10002/-1

Part #555-81800; $16.99

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/500/555/555-81800.jpg

DMC should have sets like these available for sale when selling the shocks to make adjusting alot easier. I still use the hammer and punch to set the bottom lock ring and leave the rear end hanging in the air when adjusting.

Anyhow, I bumped up the firmness on the shocks...up two notches:
Fronts are now at 6 and rears now at 8 clicks. Also, it's easier to adjust the front shocks by reaching around the front of the tire instead of the rear....

I definately notice the firmness; ex. when I shift the car doesn't rock as much..you do feel a tad little bit more of the road however. I am going to keep it at this setting for a while and see how I like it. It has a more "new sports car feel" is the only way to describe it. I definately like these shocks!

Regarding adjusting the rear height, I lowered the rear down 1/4" on each side and am noticing that any small adjustment at each shock affects the measurements around all 4corners. You can spend alot of time messing around with the height adjustment. I am going to keep it where it is for now but probably adjust it back up a tad in the near future...

Josh Q

[Jacko]

I agree with you Josh, The spanner would have come in handy to adjust the rear shocks. I used channel-loks and it was a slow and deliberate process. Also, I had difficulty gripping the knob on the front shocks. I found this old spark plug socket in my tool box which fit the knobs perfectly and easy to turn, too.

I continue with the process of finding the right settings on the shocks. Right now I'm at 11 clicks from softest on all four shocks and I kinda like it. Handles good at speed and I can live with the firmness around town.

Before installing the Spax shocks the front end of 4915 was lower than it is now. I lowered the rear quite a bit and it apparently raised the front a little ... go figure.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I agree with you Josh, The spanner would have come in handy to adjust the rear shocks. I used channel-loks and it was a slow and deliberate process. Also, I had difficulty gripping the knob on the front shocks. I found this old spark plug socket in my tool box which fit the knobs perfectly and easy to turn, too.

I continue with the process of finding the right settings on the shocks. Right now I'm at 11 clicks from softest on all four shocks and I kinda like it. Handles good at speed and I can live with the firmness around town.

Before installing the Spax shocks the front end of 4915 was lower than it is now. I lowered the rear quite a bit and it apparently raised the front a little ... go figure.

I'll have to keep going firmer with the settings until the car chatters my teeth. The reasoning behind me adjusting the rears firmer than the fronts is that through research, stiffening the rear more than the front will decrease understeer during cornering. I believe Deloreans were designed with much more understeer than needed to compensate for the rear-engine lay-out so I was thinking this would give the car a little more neutral handling. However, I don't push the car to the limit because my limit has always been reached before the car's limit so far.....

Also, The frame reacts like a see-saw when you lift one corner up. I noticed the same effect. Ex. lowering the passenger rear corner lifts the driver front corner slightly...you just have to make small changes until you get it right....

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I have now put over 4,000 miles on 3307 and these shocks are still running well for anyone on the fence.

I just returned from the hills of middle Tennessee and had a blast taking the twists and turns without hearing any tire squealing, the car stays planted on the road.

An excellent upgrade!!

Josh Q

[DCUK Martin]

I think I'm about the exact opposite... all the way up, then 6-8 clicks back, but I typically drive in a spirited sort of fashion and despise body roll. :fancy:

If / When one of these rear sway bar kits ever comes out, I'll probably revisit those settings.

Good, cause you shouldn't use the shocks to prevent body roll. Either put in stiffer springs or add an anti-roll bar as you say

[FABombjoy]

Good, cause you shouldn't use the shocks to prevent body roll. Either put in stiffer springs or add an anti-roll bar as you say
I know, but I'm short of options. It appears that the RSB kits will never materialize and I'm (gasp) actually considering the Addco bar. As is tradition, the moment I fit the Addco bar, a proper kit will come out.

Should you produce rear springs to compliment your fronts, I'll gladly consider them as well :)

[DCUK Martin]

In my opinion the rears are okay as they are, what's needed is a rear anti-roll bar. Are you ure DPNW isn't selling one? I had a promo leaflet on it some time ago. I did one myself a bit back but there's quite a bit of investment required to make them in any quantity.

[dmc6960]

In my opinion the rears are okay as they are, what's needed is a rear anti-roll bar. Are you ure DPNW isn't selling one? I had a promo leaflet on it some time ago. I did one myself a bit back but there's quite a bit of investment required to make them in any quantity.

After they had all the development work done, designed finalized, and prototypes installed for road testing; the company which was making them went bankrupt. Gone was all the specs, designs, and tooling.

He has started all over again. Still included the pamphlet about it on the order I had just a month ago, so he's definitely still working on it.

[FABombjoy]

He has started all over again. Still included the pamphlet about it on the order I had just a month ago, so he's definitely still working on it.
Oh that is really painful but it all makes sense now. I'd last asked around August, 2010 and was told a month or two. I chocked it up to something not working out and was recently looking at the addco bar. I'll resume waiting now :D

[Mark D]

I made some adjustments this morning.
I bought the below spanner wrench set at work and it does the job(you only need one of the two wrenches in the set):

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/81800/10002/-1

Part #555-81800; $16.99

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/500/555/555-81800.jpg

DMC should have sets like these available for sale when selling the shocks to make adjusting alot easier. I still use the hammer and punch to set the bottom lock ring and leave the rear end hanging in the air when adjusting.

Anyhow, I bumped up the firmness on the shocks...up two notches:
Fronts are now at 6 and rears now at 8 clicks. Also, it's easier to adjust the front shocks by reaching around the front of the tire instead of the rear....

I definately notice the firmness; ex. when I shift the car doesn't rock as much..you do feel a tad little bit more of the road however. I am going to keep it at this setting for a while and see how I like it. It has a more "new sports car feel" is the only way to describe it. I definately like these shocks!

Regarding adjusting the rear height, I lowered the rear down 1/4" on each side and am noticing that any small adjustment at each shock affects the measurements around all 4corners. You can spend alot of time messing around with the height adjustment. I am going to keep it where it is for now but probably adjust it back up a tad in the near future...

Josh Q

So this thread is pretty old but I thought it would be worth bringing it back from the dead since I was slightly disappointed after ordering the spanner set noted above.

To anyone else considering this particular set, please be aware that neither spanner actually fits the collars on the SPAX shocks. The noches do not line up as shown below. I can probably make one of them work by grinding away the two unneeded tabs. The way it stands currently that last tab digs into the collar and makes adjusting difficult. Just a word of caution.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=18804&d=1367610076

[Domi]

Thanks for the information ;)

[DeloreanJoshQ]

So this thread is pretty old but I thought it would be worth bringing it back from the dead since I was slightly disappointed after ordering the spanner set noted above.

To anyone else considering this particular set, please be aware that neither spanner actually fits the collars on the SPAX shocks. The noches do not line up as shown below. I can probably make one of them work by grinding away the two unneeded tabs. The way it stands currently that last tab digs into the collar and makes adjusting difficult. Just a word of caution.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=18804&d=1367610076

This is true. Sorry I didn't share with everyone that they are not an exact fit, but can be made to work. I don't have any trouble once I get the hang of it.

Coincidentally, tonight I hit a rough bump at about 20 mph and started hearing a clunking sound. On the front passenger side.
I babied it home to inspect. Sure enough, the top cup had been ripped by the two nuts which had pulled through it and lodged into it. The bushing was only slightly damaged.
So am I hearing correctly? Only use the top cup ( mine is now destroyed) and let the top bushing make direct contact with the shock tower? Should I use the bottom cup to replace the top cup?

[dmc6960]

Coincidentally, tonight I hit a rough bump at about 20 mph and started hearing a clunking sound. On the front passenger side.
I babied it home to inspect. Sure enough, the top cup had been ripped by the two nuts which had pulled through it and lodged into it. The bushing was only slightly damaged.
So am I hearing correctly? Only use the top cup ( mine is now destroyed) and let the top bushing make direct contact with the shock tower? Should I use the bottom cup to replace the top cup?

I think you need both cups. This happened to both my front Spax shocks about a month apart, after a year driving on them. Same as it did for many people. Still on my to-do list is a permanent replacement with a better cup (currently running large hardened washers on both as a quick-fix).

[Chris 16409]

This happened to me as well on one side. I was able to use some washers included from a bushing kit sold at auto zone. I might be able to post a picture.

[dmc6960]

This happened to me as well on one side. I was able to use some washers included from a bushing kit sold at auto zone. I might be able to post a picture.

I assume you reinforced the other side as well when you repaired the damaged side?

[Chris 16409]

I assume you reinforced the other side as well when you repaired the damaged side?

That's correct. I didn't want to take a chance. I haven't had any other issues. I have also been meaning to find a shock wrench to adjust my Spax.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I just completed upgrading the front bushings and hardware on both of my shocks.
I used a combination of two Energy suspension part numbers and had to use a 7/16 drill bit on both since they only came in 3/8 ID while all of the other dimensions were identical, but they fit nice and snug and work; the nuts aren't going to be pulling through the thick and strong washers this time.

[dmc6960]

I used a combination of two Energy suspension part numbers

You left out the most important piece of information, the actual part numbers!

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Ok, Here is what I did:

I used 4 bushings from the below bushing set which is 3/8 ID(all other dimensions were identical), and took a 7/16 drill bit gently to them along with some lube to get the bushings to slide on the bayonet. This was the closest match I could find from JEGS:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Energy-Suspension/355/9-8106G/10002/-1

I used 4 washers from the below set. They are also 3/8 ID so I drilled them out with the same 7/16 drill bit. The bushings in this set are a little bigger in OD (by 1/8th) and the locating nipple was also a tad big (by 1/16th) for the shock tower hole; you can decide if you want to make it fit. I just wasn't quite happy with them (nit-picking)

http://www.jegs.com/i/Energy-Suspension/355/9-8105G/10002/-1

If the washers from this setup break, there will be a lot more damage to the rest of the suspension; i.e. no way a small speed bump at 20 mph will break them like the original stamped pop-metal pieces.

[FABombjoy]

I've been running the same bushings (or similar) on mine as well, enlarged as described above. My original Spax bushings tore in less than a year but the urethane bushings are still going strong after a couple of years.

I also replaced the rear lower bushings with the style that looks like two tophats. Not sure what the actual name of that style is :p
On both sides the shock was sliding off of the bushing and riding against the washer, which is not acceptable to me. Replacing these were trickier as the shock eyelet is metric but the suspension bolt is imperial, so I bought a set of oversized bushings with a steel insert that matched the bolt ID and then lathed down the urethane to fit.