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SpudMurphy
10-11-2017, 04:41 AM
I need to get at my accumulator, and have been told that removal of the centre/center console gives access to components associated with it?

If that is the case, then how do you remove the console please? - Mine is an automatic.

Thanks

Gregadeth
10-11-2017, 05:22 AM
If you need access to the fuel accumulator, you do not need to remove the center console. There is an opening in the center tunnel of the chassis and you can access it through there, from underneath the car.

SpudMurphy
10-11-2017, 05:59 AM
If you need access to the fuel accumulator, you do not need to remove the center console. There is an opening in the center tunnel of the chassis and you can access it through there, from underneath the car.

Hi and thanks for the quick reply - I thought I read (somewhere) that there is access to some of the lines, under the Console?
- TBH, this is the first time I've tackled this job and don't want to damage any hard lines?

DMC-81
10-11-2017, 06:55 AM
You shouldn't need to touch the hard lines above the console to replace the fuel accumulator.

WHO1DMC
10-11-2017, 08:12 AM
There are videos on YouTube for this.

Dave B.

Jonathan
10-11-2017, 08:53 AM
Removing the centre console will not help you access the fuel accumulator. There is fiberglass and steel (frame) in the way from above. You access it from underneath. The opening is just in front of the automatic transmission fluid pan. That opening is about the size of a DVD case and you are trying to work on something the size of a pop can. This job sucks the big one like few others (IMO).

See pics:

53931539325393353934539355393653937

SpudMurphy
10-11-2017, 12:26 PM
let's put my query into perspective ....


My car, along with many other examples, has been left standing - in my case since 1994.

It was exported in a batch of 50 to Dubai and has been subjected to temperatures exceeding 50c/120F.

In view of the above, rubber pipework on the car needs replacing.

I'm slowly working my way through the car, and reducing risks of failure/fire.

My car is what you might call a "project car" - one that would have sunk into oblivion unless somebody resurrected it.

My car hasn't got the accumulator fitted in the lower access - it's not just a question replacing the accumulator I'd also like to replace the flexible lines to it.

So, very much like the example of potentially damaging the fuel hardlines down at the "petrol tank" end, I'm trying to reduce the risk of damaging lines at the "accumulator" end at the hardlines, when doing this job

I don't have a lift, I just have the car up on blocks

I managed to find where I read about the console removal and it was here



https://lukesandel.com/auto/delorean/repair/FuelAccumulator.html

So thanks for the advice :-

"There are videos on YouTube for this." - thanks anyway for contributing :rolleyes1:.
I have researched you tube and indeed there are videos on there, but not covering what I want to do.If you know of one, then let me know please?

"You shouldn't need to touch the hard lines above the console to replace the fuel accumulator."
"If you need access to the fuel accumulator, you do not need to remove the center console. There is an opening in the center tunnel of the chassis and you can access it through there, from underneath the car."
I guess I wasn't too clear from the outset, why I wanted to remove the console - I'm just thinking that I need to take it out sometime anyway, it may as well be now?

BladeBronson
10-11-2017, 12:38 PM
That doesn’t say to remove the console.

SpudMurphy
10-11-2017, 12:41 PM
That doesn’t say to remove the console.

The link includes the quote " make sure you remove the small tray at the back of the console, and then the plastic cover plate under that. That is where you can hold the back of the fuel line fitting while you detach it from underneath. If you don't do this you WILL kink the fuel line. At that point, you'll realize that the line is run in-between the frame and the body."

I tried prising the tray but it didn't budge - so I was thinking the next best thing is to remove the console, bearing in mind that i will have to take it out at some stage?

WHO1DMC
10-12-2017, 01:45 AM
Well
That tray has to come out there are two nuts holding the console on under there. It might become attached to something so if you removed the two screws take a hair dryer or heat gun and warm it up. Because it should just lift right out. Had mine out this spring.

Dave B.

SpudMurphy
10-12-2017, 03:30 AM
Well
That tray has to come out there are two nuts holding the console on under there. It might become attached to something so if you removed the two screws take a hair dryer or heat gun and warm it up. Because it should just lift right out. Had mine out this spring.

Dave B.

Brilliant, thanks Dave.

I was under the car last night and :shock::shock::shock: the accumulator has been bypassed! - it's not in there! It currently sits in the box of bits that came with the car - so it looks like I need a new accumulator - so much money for just a small component.

I don't know if anybody else has come across the accumulator being by passed?

Spud

dn010
10-12-2017, 11:18 AM
Removing the console tray most certainly WILL allow you to access the hard lines - I'm guessing this is a little known fact about the car. This cutout helped me greatly save time compared to removal or line work when I did not know about this access. I only learned about this cutout when changing frames-I was cleaning the underbody and I saw it cut out on the underbody as posted below. I thought to myself, damn, I wish I knew about this sooner! This gives you access to the two long holes in the top of the frame, as you can see in your pictures by the bottles of water. You can also see the cover in your picture of the fiberglass-console removed, under the single black plastic line - not sure if that is vac or throttle cable. You can access the lines, break the connections and not kink anything, all without feeling like you're delivering a baby from under the car. You'll still need to go under to unbolt the accumulator, etc. Just remove the tray, pry the access cover up with a screwdriver and seal it back down once work is complete.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=53949&d=1507821282




Removing the centre console will not help you access the fuel accumulator. There is fiberglass and steel (frame) in the way from above. You access it from underneath. The opening is just in front of the automatic transmission fluid pan. That opening is about the size of a DVD case and you are trying to work on something the size of a pop can. This job sucks the big one like few others (IMO).

See pics:

53931539325393353934539355393653937

Jonathan
10-12-2017, 12:13 PM
Removing the console tray most certainly WILL allow you to access the hard lines - I'm guessing this is a little known fact about the car. This cutout helped me greatly save time compared to removal or line work when I did not know about this access. I only learned about this cutout when changing frames-I was cleaning the underbody and I saw it cut out on the underbody as posted below. I thought to myself, damn, I wish I knew about this sooner! This gives you access to the two long holes in the top of the frame, as you can see in your pictures by the bottles of water. You can also see the cover in your picture of the fiberglass-console removed, under the single black plastic line - not sure if that is vac or throttle cable. You can access the lines, break the connections and not kink anything, all without feeling like you're delivering a baby from under the car. You'll still need to go under to unbolt the accumulator, etc. Just remove the tray, pry the access cover up with a screwdriver and seal it back down once work is complete.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=53949&d=1507821282

Thanks for explaining that Dan. I didn't realize there was some practical access to the fuel accumulator from above. I had assumed since it wasn't enough to get the accumulator in and out through that hole, it wasn't important. I'm glad you chimed in about how to hold on to the hardlines from above, as that is important. I stand corrected. Thanks.

SpudMurphy
10-13-2017, 04:16 AM
I'm learning guys I'm learning!!

Thanks ever so much for the contributions to this thread - and at least it's clear that other owners were unaware of this fact?

On a completely separate issue, I was researching mirror repairs on the net and there was nothing I could see on my particular aspect
- so if you haven't seen it go here

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15782-How-To-Side-Mirror-repair-is-yours-floppy-(now-with-pictures)

SpudMurphy
10-17-2017, 06:56 AM
For completeness, in case people are searching for the console removal process it's as follows:-


It is held down by 6 bolts.
2 are at he back of the console and are accessed via removal of the coin tray
Mine is automatic, and the other 4 bolts are located under the shift plate.
remove the auto stick and shift plate
Under the shift plate, remove the four bolts, which attach to 2 metal brackets, riveted either side of the console.
note that the 2 main wiring looms run within the above 2 metal brackets, be careful when you raise the console up, and just ease them off the brackets
raise the console up slightly, and peep underneath - there are many connectors to the switches cigar lighter etc. take pictures and tag them

my centre console had some internal damage to the section that mounts the cigar lighter - it's a central (cardboard?) brace that adds rigidity to the whole structure.
I made a bracket out of aluminium, made a cut out for the cigar lighter in the aluminium and used gorilla glue to glue it in place - also gluing the bracket that is pop riveted in place onto the cardboard

I refitted it (temporarily last night and the console is 10 x better.



When I get home tonight I'll try and post some pics.

SpudMurphy
07-02-2018, 06:16 AM
Just an update on this.

I managed to replace the accumulator, and thankfully no damage was done to the hardlines.

After doing a heap more work on the car, it fired up for the first time and then started first time everytime.

The oil pressure was good but the oil light was on - this was caused by the oil light sensor having it's "can" stuck inside the oil gallery.

I tapped it with an M14 tap ready to take an M14 bolt converted to a mini slide hammer. The can came loose as I tapped it and out it came.

But I'd like to pass on this little "nugget".....

An old mechanic told me ....
"When you are wrenching on fuel hardlines that either go to flexible lines, or even if they are joined to another hardline, DO NOT use a spanner in each hand. Use two spanners of the same length, line them up so you can grip them in one hand and squeeze them together - do this to loosen and tighten them"

I followed his instructions and had no leaks thank goodness!

I've seen experienced mechanics struggling with both hands and the above tip, although simple enough is often forgotten, yet works really well.