this lovely sound

[smallclone]

last drove the car 3 months ago, sounded fine.

went to drive it today. got this loud ticking sound. checked oil, sucker was low. i put oil back in, subsided. at idle its not there (sometimes.)

i did notice one of the ac bearing bolts was loose and i tightened that, had no affect on the sound what so ever. comes only from the drivers side.

i suspect rocker arm's but cant be sure.

wasnt sure if someone else had the same issues before?

https://youtu.be/FgcXaYtSwWg

[David T]

Can't hurt to check the valve clearances. How much oil did you have to add?

[smallclone]

Can't hurt to check the valve clearances. How much oil did you have to add?

2 quarts

[smallclone]

this video is a bit better

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSdHvcglXhw

[dn010]

Pull the valve covers and turn it by hand, see if any valves are stuck.

[David T]

2 quarts is a lot but since it holds 6 that should not have caused any problems. Why was it so low? Either you never check it or you have some large leaks. Don't over-fill. Check when cold, like first thing in the morning before you start it up. Make sure it is level. I like to keep mine in the middle between low and full. Check valve clearances. Fix any leaks.

[DMC-81]

Pull the valve covers and turn it by hand, see if any valves are stuck.

Agree with this physical inspection. I believe Rich_NYS had a similar problem, that I think was caused by a blocked oil hole in the rocker area?
That discussion starts here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11936-VIN-4728-Running-Resto&p=173575&viewfull=1#post173575

Not saying your problem is the same, but the noise warrants close up inspection.

[smallclone]

Agree with this physical inspection. I believe Rich_NYS had a similar problem, that I think was caused by a blocked oil hole in the rocker area?
That discussion starts here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11936-VIN-4728-Running-Resto&p=173575&viewfull=1#post173575

Not saying your problem is the same, but the noise warrants close up inspection.

thanks for your reply's, guys!

so I took the car out last night for about 20 minutes. oil pressure is good, drives fine. the sound gets louder when giving it gas and esp at higher RPM's

im going to flush the system this weekend and put in all fresh oil with new filter.

I checked the oil this morning without running it and its at full.

[dn010]

I wouldn’t keep driving it in hopes that the noise will just go away. Depending on what it is, simply parking it and investigating the noise will save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars in repairs, instead of revving it up which might tear it up more.

[smallclone]

I wouldn’t keep driving it in hopes that the noise will just go away. Depending on what it is, simply parking it and investigating the noise will save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars in repairs, instead of revving it up which might tear it up more.

yup, without a doubt, doing the flush and if that doesn't help im taking it to a garage, I aint trying to mess with rocker arms and all that lol.

[Ron]

$0.02

IF you are at that point, I suggest you just take it to a shop because the flush will make the oil much thinner and turns years of deposits loose (prone to stop something [else?] up).
The only time I use that miracle in a can is right before a complete tear down of a grungy engine.
Russian roulette, imho...

[smallclone]

$0.02

IF you are at that point, I suggest you just take it to a shop because the flush will make the oil much thinner and turns years of deposits loose (prone to stop something [else?] up).
The only time I use that miracle in a can is right before a complete tear down of a grungy engine.
Russian roulette, imho...

ive thought about that too, in hindsight im likely going to skip the flush and just do a standard oil change.

[David T]

I do flushes often. If it is an old car with a lot of miles on it and it hasn't been taken care of and the oil looks lumpy a flush is not a good idea. A low mileage old car should not have a problem. Don't expect the flush to cure a noise. It will probably make it worse. If it is due for an oil change go ahead. Otherwise skip it and have the shop do it after they work on the car.

[smallclone]

I do flushes often. If it is an old car with a lot of miles on it and it hasn't been taken care of and the oil looks lumpy a flush is not a good idea. A low mileage old car should not have a problem. Don't expect the flush to cure a noise. It will probably make it worse. If it is due for an oil change go ahead. Otherwise skip it and have the shop do it after they work on the car.

its a lower miles car, oil in it is fresh but no clue how old that oil is. ive had the car since march. drove it a bit and parked it till the weather got warmer, started it recently and now I have this issue.

[dn010]

Lower miles or not, with an engine that's stood it's possible a valve is stuck open. While I would try a different approach (and along with Ron I also would not touch motor flush until last resort), try the oil change and see if that helps anything otherwise prepare to bring it in for some service and hope it's something that running will not make worse. Good luck, and let us know.


its a lower miles car, oil in it is fresh but no clue how old that oil is. ive had the car since march. drove it a bit and parked it till the weather got warmer, started it recently and now I have this issue.

[smallclone]

Lower miles or not, with an engine that's stood it's possible a valve is stuck open. While I would try a different approach (and along with Ron I also would not touch motor flush until last resort), try the oil change and see if that helps anything otherwise prepare to bring it in for some service and hope it's something that running will not make worse. Good luck, and let us know.

about to do the oil change and noticed the oil filter on the car is a STP s16

i didnt see this on any delorean site as an approved oil filter. could this cause any issues?

[DMC-81]

about to do the oil change and noticed the oil filter on the car is a STP s16

i didnt see this on any delorean site as an approved oil filter. could this cause any issues?

Well, I don’t know if it specifically caused the issue but it based on some quick research, it wouldn’t have helped. Even if it screwed on properly, I see that it has a relief valve PSI of 12, and it looks like the correct filter has a 25-35 PSI rating.

S16:
http://www.filtertopia.com/filters/STP/S16.

Bosch:
https://www.opticatonline.com/part/bosch-3421-engine-oil-filter

That would mean barely filtering if at all as the car’s pressure is certainly above 12 PSI even at idle.

[smallclone]

Well, I don’t know if it specifically caused the issue but it based on some quick research, it wouldn’t have helped. Even if it screwed on properly, I see that it has a relief valve PSI of 12, and it looks like the correct filter has a 25-35 PSI rating.

S16:
http://www.filtertopia.com/filters/STP/S16.

Bosch:
https://www.opticatonline.com/part/bosch-3421-engine-oil-filter

That would mean barely filtering if at all as the car’s pressure is certainly above 12 PSI even at idle.


intersting. thank you!

i did pick up the 3421 and a new 16mm 1.50 drain plug, came with a washer too! i forgot about the drainplug being completely weird so i gotta order the tool to take it off, so looks like ill be waiting.

[Ron]

FWIW:
That site shows the Bosch 3421 (https://www.opticatonline.com/part/bosch-3421-engine-oil-filter) as being the wrong filter.
It shows a Bosch 3402 (https://www.opticatonline.com/part/bosch-3402-engine-oil-filter?region=usa&vehicle=1983-delorean-dmc-12&vin&acesPartType=engine-oil-filter&assetName) being correct, with a relief pressure of 8-16 psi -- So the STP's 12 psi would be within its specs.
(...Not that I would use anything other than a Bosch! ;-)

[DMC-81]

FWIW:
That site shows the Bosch 3421 (https://www.opticatonline.com/part/bosch-3421-engine-oil-filter) as being the wrong filter.
It shows a Bosch 3402 (https://www.opticatonline.com/part/bosch-3402-engine-oil-filter?region=usa&vehicle=1983-delorean-dmc-12&vin&acesPartType=engine-oil-filter&assetName) being correct, with a relief pressure of 8-16 psi -- So the STP's 12 psi would be within its specs.
(...Not that I would use anything other than a Bosch! ;-)

That’s interesting. I just use DMC filters to ensure they are correct, but researching our forum states that the Bosch 72150 was correct, but that part number is discontinued. The new part number is 3421.

I saw that 3402 number mentioned as well as a guess. So, by all means if someone with definite information on the correct relief valve pressure and current Bosch part number could chime in, that would be great.

[Ron]

Bosch calls out 3402 (https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/auto/filters/premium-oil-filters?partId=3402) and D3402 (https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/auto/filters/distanceplus-oil-filters?partId=D3402)...

[JETS 81 DMC]

From the Bosch (USA) website below 3421 is not listed for Delorean. There is a difference between them on the relief valve P.S.I.

Vehicles compatible with : Premium Oil Filters : 3421
https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/ymme?partId=3421&partName=Premium%20Oil%20Filters

Specs for 3421:
Part Number:
3421
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Connection Size: 3/4-16
Filtering Material: Cellulose Paper
Gasket Material: Nitrile
Inner Diameter Bottom: 0
Non Slip Grip: No
Oil Filter Height (in): 4.74 in
Oil Filter Type: Spin-On/Canister
Relief Valve P.S.I.: 25-35
Removal Nut: No


3402 is listed as compatible for Delorean

Vehicles compatible with : Premium Oil Filters : 3402
https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/ymme?partId=3402&partName=Premium%20Oil%20Filters

Specs for 3402:
Part Number:
3402
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Connection Size: 3/4-16
Filtering Material: Cellulose Paper
Gasket Material: Nitrile
Inner Diameter Bottom: 0
Non Slip Grip: No
Oil Filter Height (in): 3.75 in
Oil Filter Type: Spin-On/Canister
Relief Valve P.S.I.: 8-16
Removal Nut: No

[smallclone]

From the Bosch (USA) website below 3421 is not listed for Delorean. There is a difference between them on the relief valve P.S.I.

Vehicles compatible with : Premium Oil Filters : 3421
https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/ymme?partId=3421&partName=Premium%20Oil%20Filters

Specs for 3421:
Part Number:
3421
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Connection Size: 3/4-16
Filtering Material: Cellulose Paper
Gasket Material: Nitrile
Inner Diameter Bottom: 0
Non Slip Grip: No
Oil Filter Height (in): 4.74 in
Oil Filter Type: Spin-On/Canister
Relief Valve P.S.I.: 25-35
Removal Nut: No


3402 is listed as compatible for Delorean

Vehicles compatible with : Premium Oil Filters : 3402
https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/ymme?partId=3402&partName=Premium%20Oil%20Filters

Specs for 3402:
Part Number:
3402
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Connection Size: 3/4-16
Filtering Material: Cellulose Paper
Gasket Material: Nitrile
Inner Diameter Bottom: 0
Non Slip Grip: No
Oil Filter Height (in): 3.75 in
Oil Filter Type: Spin-On/Canister
Relief Valve P.S.I.: 8-16
Removal Nut: No

hmm wish i knew this the other day.


anyways, i drained the system, got the drain plug tool at pepboys.

i put the 3421 filter on. started it up and sounded great!!!!!!!

fast fwd 5minutes plus, the sound was back in full force.

im stumped.

dunno why it would sound great at start up then faulter again.

[DMC-81]

From the Bosch (USA) website below 3421 is not listed for Delorean. There is a difference between them on the relief valve P.S.I.

Vehicles compatible with : Premium Oil Filters : 3421
https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/ymme?partId=3421&partName=Premium%20Oil%20Filters

Specs for 3421:
Part Number:
3421
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Connection Size: 3/4-16
Filtering Material: Cellulose Paper
Gasket Material: Nitrile
Inner Diameter Bottom: 0
Non Slip Grip: No
Oil Filter Height (in): 4.74 in
Oil Filter Type: Spin-On/Canister
Relief Valve P.S.I.: 25-35
Removal Nut: No


3402 is listed as compatible for Delorean

Vehicles compatible with : Premium Oil Filters : 3402
https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/ymme?partId=3402&partName=Premium%20Oil%20Filters

Specs for 3402:
Part Number:
3402
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Connection Size: 3/4-16
Filtering Material: Cellulose Paper
Gasket Material: Nitrile
Inner Diameter Bottom: 0
Non Slip Grip: No
Oil Filter Height (in): 3.75 in
Oil Filter Type: Spin-On/Canister
Relief Valve P.S.I.: 8-16
Removal Nut: No

Thanks guys. I stand corrected. With a relief valve at 8-16 psi, the filter must be bypassed more often than not.


hmm wish i knew this the other day.


anyways, i drained the system, got the drain plug tool at pepboys.

i put the 3421 filter on. started it up and sounded great!!!!!!!

fast fwd 5minutes plus, the sound was back in full force.

im stumped.

dunno why it would sound great at start up then faulter again.

Wow, that's weird. Perhaps that behavior is related to thicker oil at startup providing more lubrication, then as the engine warms up the oil gets thinner. Perhaps your oil pump is failing or the blockage as mentioned. It's anybody's guess. Regardless, as Dan said above, I think you need to have it inspected immediately without trying to drive it anymore. When whoever has the offending valve cover off, I think the cause will be apparent.

If you'd like, you can PM your address, and I can send you my spare DMC oil filter and crush washer. Then you'll know for sure you have the right one.

[smallclone]

Thanks guys. I stand corrected. With a relief valve at 8-16 psi, the filter must be bypassed more often than not.



Wow, that's weird. Perhaps that behavior is related to thicker oil at startup providing more lubrication, then as the engine warms up the oil gets thinner. Perhaps your oil pump is failing or the blockage as mentioned. It's anybody's guess. Regardless, as Dan said above, I think you need to have it inspected immediately without trying to drive it anymore. When whoever has the offending valve cover off, I think the cause will be apparent.

If you'd like, you can PM your address, and I can send you my spare DMC oil filter and crush washer. Then you'll know for sure you have the right one.

thanks! but its ok, i put on the 3402 tonight.

im not going to start the car at all anymore, im taking it to a garage right near my house next week and hoping for the best.

[smallclone]

thanks! but its ok, i put on the 3402 tonight.

im not going to start the car at all anymore, im taking it to a garage right near my house next week and hoping for the best.

now im gonna start sounding like a lunitic but i checked the dip stock and it says im on low, i just put in 7 quarts.

[dn010]

This engine takes a lot of oil. How much did you put in to begin with? If it’s reading on the stick and you put in 7 qts, good luck with that!

[smallclone]

This engine takes a lot of oil. How much did you put in to begin with?

7 quarts

[dn010]

So 14 qts total...?

[smallclone]

So 14 qts total...?

no, i drained the oil, and added 7 quarts

[dn010]

7 is about right if my memory is fine. Possibly even 8?

[DMC-81]

7 is about right if my memory is fine. Possibly even 8?

Yeah, 7 is right (6.8 ). Here are the relevant pages from the owners manual.

56476 56475

If you are sure that you followed the manual procedures, the original dipstick was inserted all the way before measuring, and the car was level etc., you can try adding a bit at a time to get it in the correct range. The manual states to add a 1/2 pint to compensate for a new filter.

That would eliminate low oil level as the cause ( unless you verified the level during one of your previous tests).

[smallclone]

Yeah, 7 is right (6.8 ). Here are the relevant pages from the owners manual.

56476 56475

If you are sure that you followed the manual procedures, the original dipstick was inserted all the way before measuring, and the car was level etc., you can try adding a bit at a time to get it in the correct range. The manual states to add a 1/2 pint to compensate for a new filter.

That would eliminate low oil level as the cause ( unless you verified the level during one of your previous tests).

ocd kicked in and did another oil change, this time with the correct filter. oil levels are fine now.

again same issue, great at start up then when warm it chatters, i took a long tube and put my ear to the end of it and put it around the valve covers and nothing.

i put the tube around the manifolds and the sound is certaining coming from there.

at this point im going to assume its manifold and gasket related. the gaskits seems new but im willing to bet dollars to donuts either the bolts arent tightened to spec or the manifolds werent milled.

ill keep yall posted.

[smallclone]

ocd kicked in and did another oil change, this time with the correct filter. oil levels are fine now.

again same issue, great at start up then when warm it chatters, i took a long tube and put my ear to the end of it and put it around the valve covers and nothing.

i put the tube around the manifolds and the sound is certaining coming from there.

at this point im going to assume its manifold and gasket related. the gaskits seems new but im willing to bet dollars to donuts either the bolts arent tightened to spec or the manifolds werent milled.

ill keep yall posted.


ok got under there again. found some interesting things. put the vaccum hose to the oil pan, no sound. anytime i get it near the passenger side manifold is when it gets super sound, enough to chatter RIGHT in my ear. pin pointed it so close to the MIDDLE of the manifold and snapped a pic of this. look at the brown burn stains coming from DIRECTLY where the sound is.

im no mechanic but i cant deny the evidence here.

tell me what yall think, im going to remove the heat stove cover when the car cools down and tighten the manifold bolts there and see where i am.

[DMC-81]

That looks like a culprit!

If it is coming from the exhaust that's encouraging and much less damaging than valve train problems. Although it hasn't happened to me, I have read about others that had rapping sounds. You may also want to check the heat shields on the crossover pipe as well (assuming original exhaust). Here's a thread on that:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15620-Strange-noise-only-under-load/page4

I began to have exhaust leak noise that progressively got worse before I refurbed my exhaust. What a difference new gaskets, planing the manifolds, etc. made!

Good luck.

Also, a little bit of OCD helps with these cars. :)

[smallclone]

That looks like a culprit!

If it is coming from the exhaust that's encouraging and much less damaging than valve train problems. Although it hasn't happened to me, I have read about others that had rapping sounds. You may also want to check the heat shields on the crossover pipe as well (assuming original exhaust). Here's a thread on that:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15620-Strange-noise-only-under-load/page4

I began to have exhaust leak noise that progressively got worse before I refurbed my exhaust. What a difference new gaskets, planing the manifolds, etc. made!

Good luck.

Also, a little bit of OCD helps with these cars. :)

removed the heatstove cover i tightened the bolts and same sound but certainly not as alarming as before. the gaskets are obviously very new and i dont believe the manifolds were milled.

if it were rod knock where could i look to make sure? i assumed listening around the oil pan itself would be a good place to start.

fyi the leak is gone too after tightening the oil pan and adding the thick 20w 50 oil to the car.

[DMC-81]

removed the heatstove cover i tightened the bolts and same sound but certainly not as alarming as before. the gaskets are obviously very new and i dont believe the manifolds were milled.

if it were rod knock where could i look to make sure? i assumed listening around the oil pan itself would be a good place to start.

fyi the leak is gone too after tightening the oil pan and adding the thick 20w 50 oil to the car.

If the noise is getting quieter, then that's definitely a good sign. I would continue down the path of listening for and fixing exhaust leak noise. For example, 3 of my 6 manifold flanges were compromised so I would agree, even with new gaskets, not milling the manifolds will make the problem come back. Don't forget to check the crossover pipe heat shields too.

Here is my exhaust refurb thread if it helps any: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14704-Refurbishing-stock-exhaust&highlight=exhaust


Although not precise, to listen for rod knock I would place your hose on the engine block wall under the exhaust and in the valley (if you can maneuver it there).

[Ron]

...
if it were rod knock where could i look to make sure? i assumed listening around the oil pan itself would be a good place to start.
+1...Sounds like you found the culprit.
Otrherwise, once you are 100% sure the (new;-) exhaust gaskets are not leaking, you might try pulling the plug wires one at a time....usually, a rod knock will reduce drastically when you get to the correct cylinder(s).

[smallclone]

+1...Sounds like you found the culprit.
Otrherwise, once you are 100% sure the (new;-) exhaust gaskets are not leaking, you might try pulling the plug wires one at a time....usually, a rod knock will reduce drastically when you get to the correct cylinder(s).

thanks for all the help, guys.

ill will keep this thread updated as if anyone in the future has a similar issue.

since I drained the oil twice I didn't see any metal shavings at all which is a good sign.

[smallclone]

56534

so this was a thing yesterday.

one of the gaskets was on upside down. i brought the manifold to a machine shop and got it milled, he said it was pretty bad.

im hoping i dont have to do the other side soon.

will be putting this back on this weekend, hopfully that resolves the issue.

[DMC-81]

Wow, look at that poor gasket match, presumably on the one upside down. How bad was the gasket?

[smallclone]

Wow, look at that poor gasket match, presumably on the one upside down. How bad was the gasket?

one was ok, the rest were pretty dirty.

[AirmanPika]

56534

so this was a thing yesterday.

one of the gaskets was on upside down. i brought the manifold to a machine shop and got it milled, he said it was pretty bad.

im hoping i dont have to do the other side soon.

will be putting this back on this weekend, hopfully that resolves the issue.

I was gonna say the sound kinda reminded me of when I had a leaking gasket on my manifold. That looks a lot like mine did before similarly milling and getting new seals. All quiet after that.

[DMCMW Dave]

56534

one of the gaskets was on upside down. i brought the manifold to a machine shop and got it milled, he said it was pretty bad.

im hoping i dont have to do the other side soon.

e.

You should always do both. You've done more than half the work to do one side - getting the crossover off.

Good think you had the manifold resurfaced, if you skip that step you'll be doing it over in a few months!

[Ron]

You should always do both. You've done more than half the work to do one side - getting the crossover off.

Good think you had the manifold resurfaced, if you skip that step you'll be doing it over in a few months!...installed a warped manifold and a gasket upside down, um...+1!

[smallclone]

You should always do both. You've done more than half the work to do one side - getting the crossover off.

Good think you had the manifold resurfaced, if you skip that step you'll be doing it over in a few months!

yeah i know, im just trying to get the problem one out of the way first, but i wouldnt be shocked if the drivers side fails soon.

[smallclone]

...installed a warped manifold and a gasket upside down, um...+1!

i know right.

[smallclone]

I was gonna say the sound kinda reminded me of when I had a leaking gasket on my manifold. That looks a lot like mine did before similarly milling and getting new seals. All quiet after that.

thats reassuring

[smallclone]

aaaaaaand that didnt work.

i ordered extra gaskets so looks like ill be doing the drivers side this weekend and if that doesnt work im def bringing it to a shop.


anyone know if the cat needs to be removed to get at the drivers side manifold?

[DMC-81]

aaaaaaand that didnt work.

i ordered extra gaskets so looks like ill be doing the drivers side this weekend and if that doesnt work im def bringing it to a shop.


anyone know if the cat needs to be removed to get at the drivers side manifold?

Yes, I believe the cat is really in the way to get to the bottom...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49077&d=1487556880

[smallclone]

Yes, I believe the cat is really in the way to get to the bottom...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=49077&d=1487556880

didnt have to remove the cat, used 1/4 drive and some creativity and was able to pull it without having to remove the cat, but i did at least need to unbolt it to give some play in the crossover to get the manifold to give.

this time two gaskets were upside down!! epic win!

56598

[DMC-81]

didnt have to remove the cat, used 1/4 drive and some creativity and was able to pull it without having to remove the cat, but i did at least need to unbolt it to give some play in the crossover to get the manifold to give.

this time two gaskets were upside down!! epic win!

56598

Nice! Hopefully that fixes the noise.

[smallclone]

Nice! Hopefully that fixes the noise.

thanks I hope so too, ill know tonight.

[smallclone]

ANNNNNND.. no. that didnt work. it altered the sound tho. its seems to be coming from the very top back of the intake manifold which is really off. i give up. its going to the shop in the morning.

[DMC-81]

Well, that must be frustrating. Although, fixing 3 upside down manifold gaskets was not wasted effort. You should feel the difference driving it afterward.

Because of the estimated location of the residual noise and what you found with the exhaust gaskets, I wonder how the 2 crossover pipe-to-manifold gaskets, the cat-to-crossover pipe gasket, and the condition of the flanges were? There should be 2 metal ones and a fiber one there. Were they present and relatively new as well?

[smallclone]

Well, that must be frustrating. Although, fixing 3 upside down manifold gaskets was not wasted effort. You should feel the difference driving it afterward.

Because of the estimated location of the residual noise and what you found with the exhaust gaskets, I wonder how the 2 crossover pipe-to-manifold gaskets, the cat-to-crossover pipe gasket, and the condition of the flanges were? There should be 2 metal ones and a fiber one there. Were they present and relatively new as well?

they were there, i replaced them too.

[smallclone]

56982

look what it was. look how cute this is. all cracked

[DMC-81]

56982

look what it was. look how cute this is. all cracked

Wow! That certainly wouldn't be have been good. Were you also feeling vibrations? I would also check for any cracking around the crankshaft area. Also, it is a prime time to replace the rear main seal. Rob Grady has a good one that incorporates ribbing.

Glad that you found it.

[smallclone]

Wow! That certainly wouldn't be have been good. Were you also feeling vibrations? I would also check for any cracking around the crankshaft area. Also, it is a prime time to replace the rear main seal. Rob Grady has a good one that incorporates ribbing.

Glad that you found it.

no vibrations but didn't really drive it.

yup rear main seal from Rob is going to be put in.

Rob was the one that said it was flex plate and he wasn't wrong.