3D Printable Time Machine Parts Project

[kgp4death]

So they are lots of 3d printable parts on Thingiverse...I made a collection for ease of browsing them (Thanks to everyone that posted them). I would like to model as many of the remaining pieces as possible. Anybody want to help? (I can share the fusion 360 project i think) All models will eventually be freely available on thingiverse once they are finalized.

things I am drafting
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printable models already on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/kgp4death/collections/delorean)
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I will be posting my progress on the project here.

[cpistocco]

So they are lots of 3d printable parts on Thingiverse...I made a collection for ease of browsing them (Thanks to everyone that posted them). I would like to model as many of the remaining pieces as possible. Anybody want to help? (I can share the fusion 360 project i think) All models will eventually be freely available on thingiverse once they are finalized.

things I am drafting
59381

printable models already on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/kgp4death/collections/delorean)
59380

I will be posting my progress on the project here.

Coolness!

[DavidProehl]

This is awesome! I'm not hardcore enough to source and pay for screen accurate parts, but I could see myself someday printing and painting parts that are accurate enough for me. Replica time machine parts for the people! :)

[kgp4death]

This is awesome! I'm not hardcore enough to source and pay for screen accurate parts, but I could see myself someday printing and painting parts that are accurate enough for me. Replica time machine parts for the people! :)

You got it that is exactly what I am going for. This would not be for the hardcore "must be exact model no matter the cost people" but for the budget build people which would like a good amount of visual/dimentional accuracy for the cost of time and abs plastic.

[kgp4death]

here is my model for today the the clare-electroseal corp box C2277-EI better known as that random golden box on center console....again if any one wants to help/check my measurements whatever pm your email



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[kgp4death]

So I figured out how to share my files for now links self update, you can look at rotate,measure things, markup, and add comments and criticisms (so I can fix things). You can also download files and stl files to print and modify(but sorry to say they will have no connection to self update my files-you would still need to give me your email for that), but for more complex items you want to download the fusion file and export each object as a separate stl....that said these are still not fully ready to go and some are very raw (but good start,they will be on thingiverse once they are 99%)....oh and if you are goingto try toprint something make sure it is in petg or abs or poly carbonate. If you are looking into buying a 3d printer look at the cr-10 (but you will need an enclosure for abs, i just have 2 10$ ikea tables on top of each other.

https://sites.google.com/site/brucecampbellvsganon/allmodels.png


Golden Claire Electrical Box
(center console in front of flux capacitor)
want to still model some switches and things for the really lazy to find parts people but close
https://a360.co/2EGlT1J

Mount for Green bowling pin torpedo things
(these are meant to be used with the models already on thingiverse for the Green tube things)
https://a360.co/2ECs2fa

Vent Plates(rear driver side exterior)
pretty close to done found all the real dimensions
https://a360.co/2EGxuOb

Black Boxes for Dash Board
(still need to adjust some dimensions and model internals)
https://a360.co/2EM5zfZ

Heat sink for on top of the big zero box exterior behind the passager
this is a re-mix of the plutonium chamber heat sinks they are similar but different sizes.
close but needs a hole for the wire protector things (and also need to model those too)
https://a360.co/2TvV8ql

Actual big zero box with connector for orange jantrol tube built in
https://a360.co/2EKM8UB

Extinguisher holder for near the flux capacitor
still needs a lot of work
https://a360.co/2EGSB34

flux band bracket
will need to be printed in flexible filament or printed hard just to make the mold.
https://a360.co/2EK6yxe

Plutonium Chamber (screw version)
very inaccurate but dont think there was a chamber for the plutonium to fall into, and modified for lid to screw in instead of just one Quarter turn for more security from it falling off. I will model the normal version too.
https://a360.co/2TyJSJL

Plutonium Chamber Lid
(working but inaccurate screw version- these all work with turbine thing already on thingiverse that goes above hubcap. )
https://a360.co/2ELlDOU

Plutonium Chamber Insert With Plutonium drop slot
(also inaccurate, but official version was bolted in and to get the plutonium you would have to open the whole thing or grab them from under neath hoping they didn't fall in to engine.(i think,correct me if i am wrong).Again I will model normal version too.
https://a360.co/2IYGnrY

Delorean relay holder behind passenger
(might model the relays for completeness but they are like 5$ cheap)
https://a360.co/2EGEriu

Wire Coupling thing used all over
will eventually be several versions for all the types/sizes around car
https://a360.co/2TlRUWU

Twin zero boxes near green tubes
https://a360.co/2IZCMtP

[StanMan PushN 88]

So are you saying all the stuff you and others have created is available to print in some kind of plastic or resin? I've never ordered anything from these guys, so what is the best way and what is best type of material to ask it to be printed in for painting and mounting purposes (on a DeLorean of course!).

Thanks for sharing your skills and ordering tips?


https://www.thingiverse.com/kgp4death/collections/delorean

[kgp4death]

Well printing services get expensive quick (as you are paying for time too - 3d printing takes a long time), I would personally not recommend doing it that way. Here is what i am saying:

get a cr-10 (because it is big-cheap-and great quality) here is a 10s for only 353$ great deal mine was a 10 which is worse model for 360$
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-CR-10S-3D-Printer-DIY-Kit-Dual-Z-axis-Filament-300X300X400mm-PLA/401722683323?hash=item5d8889afbb:g:DNQAAOSwAx9b98E J

get plastic (this would need to be abs as is is on a car which gets hot. a 10pk from here is 109$ and would be enough plastic to pretty much do a delorean

http://www.zyltech.com/zyltech-filament-special-offers/

now a cr-10 does need a couple things
10$ mirror tiles ikea https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/39151700/
2X9$ ikea tables for encloure wihich is needed for abs https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20011408/
you probably want a pei sheet for helping abs stick for 20$ from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Laminated-Adhesive/dp/B07FVL1SYF/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1YJX3R7GKHJ7W&keywords=pei+sheet+300x300mm&qid=1552362041&s=gateway&sprefix=pei+sheet+%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-4
and a 18$ gallon bottle of acetone to weld palstic togeter and things https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-gal-Acetone-GAC18/100141096

Total 528$


then you can pretty much print all this stuff and sand and paint to your desire. btw here is the new pack i will be posting soon including the jantrol tank, orange tube, canon pipe elbows, toin blower, wire strain releifs, volage regulator box, even a radio modle and atomuffler things......in other words i am getting pretty hardcore on this.

https://57bb0847-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/brucecampbellvsganon/newmodels.png

[StanMan PushN 88]

Great ideas, and nice to share in forum as most of us will never find the "real 100% items" out in the wild and can't wait 20 more years to collect it all. So, thanks again, and for those interested in printing one or 2 pieces, and in stronger material than plastic, which of the 3 services under "order this printed" has anyone used, and can recommend or avoid based on experience?

Stanley

[kgp4death]

I have not used any 3d printing service but I do know they are ridiculously overpriced. ABS is quite strong many stock car parts are abs like in DeLorean many interior panels are abs (unless they are the crappy thin fiber glass new ones the company now try's to sell). 3d prints too are quite strong at 100% infill (ie solid part not that you really need that) the weakness comes in at the layers. Prints could easy break at the layers, but abs is a different creature in that you can chemical weld/fuse layers with just some acetone leaving a smooth finish no to little layer lines and super strong part. Polycarbonate is another choice bullet proof glass is made of the stuff quite strong but harder to print and more expensive (cr-10 can print the stuff with all metal hot end or change boden tube and insulated bed upgrade). If you wanted a metal piece you could do a lost pla casting with maybe a home made 25$ forge but all that stuff is more for a diy/maker person not a hire someone to do it for me person.

[kgp4death]

Just posting an updated screenshot of printable parts....will post links when I have time

https://57bb0847-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/brucecampbellvsganon/newModels2.png

[Timebender]

Sweet! Looks like you have my Wormhole Emitter (which I do need to update now..).

Glad to see the rest too! I’m going to try making a model of the Mr. Fusion base as a one piece model, vs the ones there that are all segments and incomplete.

[kgp4death]

Cool man and thanks again for the wormhole emitter model that was one of the nicer models of anything I have ever found of anything, so detailed and awesome.

[Timebender]

Cool man and thanks again for the wormhole emitter model that was one of the nicer models of anything I have ever found of anything, so detailed and awesome.

Stop you’re making me blush.. [emoji4]

Anyway, glad you like it!

And btw I will be offering it soon on my site as well, both raw printed and finished versions for a TON less than what some of the other time machine parts guys charge.

[kgp4death]

cool you finally got a printer saw you were looking for a service there for a little while. Also feel free to print any of my stuff anyone want's i do not have that kinda time to help people print stuff.

[Timebender]

Happy to help!

[WackyBob]

Awesome post thanks!

[kgp4death]

Awesome post thanks!

Glad someone likes the project.....no one else seems to care.....lol.....here are the rest of the links

3 red Capacitors with elbows and mounting plate
https://a360.co/2RZPN7j

Silver can for in front of Plutonium Chamber
https://a360.co/2FRMOZV

Blue Capacitors and mounting plate
https://a360.co/2RZidy8

Time Circuits (I didn’t print this I had one)
https://a360.co/2YBUHdl

Speed O Meter Box
https://a360.co/2FY74Je

Cross Over tube
https://a360.co/2L7UYBp

Alarm Clock
https://a360.co/2L4tZXw

Time Circuit Switch Enclosure (didn’t print I had one)
https://a360.co/2Lcqgrd

Jantrol Tank or behind driver outside
https://a360.co/2L3Ncsn

Wire Trunks interior near time circuits
https://a360.co/2L652Ly

True Keypad
https://a360.co/2L4hOtW

Torin blower for near flux capacitor interior
https://a360.co/2FROxhR

3 hole black thing for in front of plutonium chamber
https://a360.co/2RYXURA

radio model
https://a360.co/2RZ9Rqw

plutonium gauges and enclosure
https://a360.co/2FYTohb

corrugated black tube holder near plutonium gauge
https://a360.co/2S2ZRwj

overhead switch panel
https://a360.co/2L5qwYF

orange tube exterior
https://a360.co/2S3anE2

compass
https://a360.co/2RVpfUE

ato muffler and holder
https://a360.co/2G9Xgw7

Voltage regulator box for behind passenger seat
https://a360.co/2FWGLDt

Wire Strain Relief Couplings
https://a360.co/2YC4OPb

[kgp4death]

Here are the results of the project, proof is in the pudding I guess, not perfect but good enough for me.

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[WackyBob]

Here are the results of the project, proof is in the pudding I guess, not perfect but good enough for me.

60555
6055660557
60558
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Awesome Your efforts are much appreciated!

Would you mind sending me a PM with your number? I’d love to ask you some things?

[DavidProehl]

Nicely done! So cool to see these parts on the car and to have you willing to share them. 3D models like this haven't typically been shared so openly in the community.

[kgp4death]

3D models like this haven't typically been shared so openly in the community.

yeah, I noticed that is why I released them.....lI am one of those rock the boat guys.....lol.

[petriomelony]

Here are the results of the project, proof is in the pudding I guess, not perfect but good enough for me.

60555
6055660557
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60559

This is amazing work :) Nicely done!

[kgp4death]

here are all the pics the people in pics are not me btw I am taking pics and documenting


https://photos.app.goo.gl/VANJ2XuNr2CG3hmQ7

[WackyBob]

here are all the pics the people in pics are not me btw I am taking pics and documenting


https://photos.app.goo.gl/VANJ2XuNr2CG3hmQ7

Very Nice! Great job and thank you for sharing the pics. Did you cut the aluminum yourself?

[kgp4death]

the Gary weaver cads I had laser cut (not cheap) but everything else I cut mostly with a higher-end jigsaw with a metal blade. I guess if you get the cads printed 1 to 1 scale you could cut it yourself but welding (which I also didn't do which also was not cheap) will be a little harder.

[Timebender]

Nice stuff! I do have a more accurate model of the TRW Keypad that I modeled off the blueprints that were posted in the BTTF Parts ask me anything section. There’s two versions- one with the keypad plate for an actual keypad, and one with a keypad plate that has static keys - which I would recommend getting printed so the keys turn out nice.

I’ll try and get that posted on Thingiverse this weekend sometime.

[Timebender]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190714/01592d0acf57a1c046dbb69611f6685d.jpg

Here’s the model printed at .2mm

[Timebender]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190714/341b7f9003e2a2ac013304973196510a.jpg

[kgp4death]

cool yeah the keypad model I had were for very specific time circuits from UK

[DMCLEE]

This is amazing work :) Nicely done!

I second that! Excellent work. Do you have any close ups of the Red Capacitors after printing?

[WackyBob]

I second that! Excellent work. Do you have any close ups of the Red Capacitors after printing?

Hey guys my Creality CR-10S printer and support equipment that was recommended has been delivered .

I’m not too computer savvy. I’ve seen stuff with people recommending to run the printer off a computer. Some say to copy files to SD cards then just insert. And still others recommend using a Rasberry Pi and downloading some program on it.

What’s the easiest and most idiot proof way to set up the printer?

What’s the best program to use for the printing? Does the software come preloaded on the printer?

Any other tips?

Lots of noob stupid questions I know

Thanks in advance [emoji120]
WackyBob “Rob”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kgp4death]

print off sd card use cura for slicer look up a cura 101 youtube video ilke ​ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUNTlb5pEWA

I do not have closeups of redcaps handy i will post but it looks just like the model cant see any layer lines

[WackyBob]

Thank You!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[futaris]

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3323-mr-fusion-back-to-the-future

[EngineerGuY]

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3323-mr-fusion-back-to-the-future


Any pictures after completion? Would love to see it, great work btw!

[DukeNukeIt]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190714/341b7f9003e2a2ac013304973196510a.jpg

Was the updated keypad housing uploaded to Thingiverse?

Thanks,
Dave

[kris]

So I figured out how to share my files for now links self update, you can look at rotate,measure things, markup, and add comments and criticisms (so I can fix things). You can also download files and stl files to print and modify(but sorry to say they will have no connection to self update my files-you would still need to give me your email for that), but for more complex items you want to download the fusion file and export each object as a separate stl....that said these are still not fully ready to go and some are very raw (but good start,they will be on thingiverse once they are 99%)....oh and if you are goingto try toprint something make sure it is in petg or abs or poly carbonate. If you are looking into buying a 3d printer look at the cr-10 (but you will need an enclosure for abs, i just have 2 10$ ikea tables on top of each other.



Twin zero boxes near green tubes
https://a360.co/2IZCMtP


Hey mate, the links work and the files come up in a webviewer, however, how do we download the files?

[kgp4death]

hum.....let me check, could have sworn you could download files.....in mean time any one that wants file can add to project.....I also should get around to putting them on thingiverse anyhow.

[DocBrown]

Is your STL here for the heatsink for the big zero can? I see the image, but can't seem to find the file. Thanks!



So I figured out how to share my files for now links self update, you can look at rotate,measure things, markup, and add comments and criticisms (so I can fix things). You can also download files and stl files to print and modify(but sorry to say they will have no connection to self update my files-you would still need to give me your email for that), but for more complex items you want to download the fusion file and export each object as a separate stl....that said these are still not fully ready to go and some are very raw (but good start,they will be on thingiverse once they are 99%)....oh and if you are goingto try toprint something make sure it is in petg or abs or poly carbonate. If you are looking into buying a 3d printer look at the cr-10 (but you will need an enclosure for abs, i just have 2 10$ ikea tables on top of each other.

https://sites.google.com/site/brucecampbellvsganon/allmodels.png


Golden Claire Electrical Box
(center console in front of flux capacitor)
want to still model some switches and things for the really lazy to find parts people but close
https://a360.co/2EGlT1J

Mount for Green bowling pin torpedo things
(these are meant to be used with the models already on thingiverse for the Green tube things)
https://a360.co/2ECs2fa

Vent Plates(rear driver side exterior)
pretty close to done found all the real dimensions
https://a360.co/2EGxuOb

Black Boxes for Dash Board
(still need to adjust some dimensions and model internals)
https://a360.co/2EM5zfZ

Heat sink for on top of the big zero box exterior behind the passager
this is a re-mix of the plutonium chamber heat sinks they are similar but different sizes.
close but needs a hole for the wire protector things (and also need to model those too)
https://a360.co/2TvV8ql

Actual big zero box with connector for orange jantrol tube built in
https://a360.co/2EKM8UB

Extinguisher holder for near the flux capacitor
still needs a lot of work
https://a360.co/2EGSB34

flux band bracket
will need to be printed in flexible filament or printed hard just to make the mold.
https://a360.co/2EK6yxe

Plutonium Chamber (screw version)
very inaccurate but dont think there was a chamber for the plutonium to fall into, and modified for lid to screw in instead of just one Quarter turn for more security from it falling off. I will model the normal version too.
https://a360.co/2TyJSJL

Plutonium Chamber Lid
(working but inaccurate screw version- these all work with turbine thing already on thingiverse that goes above hubcap. )
https://a360.co/2ELlDOU

Plutonium Chamber Insert With Plutonium drop slot
(also inaccurate, but official version was bolted in and to get the plutonium you would have to open the whole thing or grab them from under neath hoping they didn't fall in to engine.(i think,correct me if i am wrong).Again I will model normal version too.
https://a360.co/2IYGnrY

Delorean relay holder behind passenger
(might model the relays for completeness but they are like 5$ cheap)
https://a360.co/2EGEriu

Wire Coupling thing used all over
will eventually be several versions for all the types/sizes around car
https://a360.co/2TlRUWU

Twin zero boxes near green tubes
https://a360.co/2IZCMtP

[mike123]

Thank you so much for sharing this!

So far I am 2-for-13 with my 3D printer, in terms of getting things successfully printed. But I am learning!

For this heatsink thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2184834

...it doesn't print because it tries to put some material in mid-air when it gets to that second flange from the bottom. But I think if the two pieces could be split up and rotated 90 degrees, it would work. (Maybe it would be tipsy from being tall and thin but I don't know).

I am looking for a free, entry-level program to try to edit these things but haven't found one yet. TinkerCAD doesn't seem to allow you to "cut", and it looks like Fusion360 is a paid product, which I'm not quite ready for that level of commitment yet, given my batting average with the printer.

Anyways I'll keep trying stuff, it's been fun so far!

[Bitsyncmaster]

For this heatsink thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2184834

...it doesn't print because it tries to put some material in mid-air when it gets to that second flange from the bottom. But I think if the two pieces could be split up and rotated 90 degrees, it would work. (Maybe it would be tipsy from being tall and thin but I don't know).

Yes you would need to rotate that 90 degrees or add a lot of supports.

Your slicer should allow you to rotate the model.

[mike123]

Your slicer should allow you to rotate the model.

Oh, I did not know that but you're right!

I was also able to add a little rectangle of material on the TinkerCAD website, so that when I rotated it, it would have 100% of the footprint flat on the printer bed. The result is here:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3C7WSjBXcon-back-to-the-future-delorean-gold-heat-sinks

Hope it is helpful to some people! I am 10 hours into the print (15 or so to go) but fingers-crossed it does look like it will work.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Oh, I did not know that but you're right!

I was also able to add a little rectangle of material on the TinkerCAD website, so that when I rotated it, it would have 100% of the footprint flat on the printer bed. The result is here:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3C7WSjBXcon-back-to-the-future-delorean-gold-heat-sinks

Hope it is helpful to some people! I am 10 hours into the print (15 or so to go) but fingers-crossed it does look like it will work.

What I do with my resin printer is add a printed platform that sits on closely spaced standoffs so that it can easily pop off the built plate. Building with a large flat surface on the build plate is very hard to remove. I do have a filament printer but am spoiled with the quality I get with resin printing.

I then cut or sand off that built plate.

[mike123]

Oh interesting, I haven't even heard of resin printing, maybe something to look into once I have a better handle on the 3D Filament stuff.

The heat sink print came out perfect, took a bit less than 24 hours. I was surprised at how tall it is, but I've never seen any of this stuff in person anywhere else.

[mike123]

I have begun printing some flux capacitor pieces that are linked in the description of this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwaCr0_KH5M

So far, they are coming out very nicely! The Torr relay base and top just snap together, I didn't realize how precise these models and printers can be. My first flux capacitor used some sliced wooden dowels for this part.