View Full Version : 1005 Restoration

06-15-2021, 07:47 AM
1005 arrived yesterday from Hawaii. It runs and drives (the 3 miles from the pickup anyway), but has numerous issues. Fortunately, the PO did the big spend on failure items, so what remains is hopefully mostly cosmetic and a great deal of tidying up rather than big ticket items.

Anyway, I'll let the pictures do the talking.


06-15-2021, 11:28 PM
Congrats! Donít forget to post your restoration process.

06-16-2021, 01:05 AM
Congrats, Mr.C!! Any body damage? How long was it in hawaii?

06-16-2021, 07:03 AM
Congrats, Mr.C!! Any body damage? How long was it in hawaii?

There's some dents in the hood, and I think some of the panels actually have some rust. The fit of the passenger door is very poor. The car was in Hawaii since original sale, so just on 40 years, including 10 sitting in a container.

06-16-2021, 07:42 PM
Being on the island surrounded by salt water, how is the frame?

06-17-2021, 10:29 AM
Being on the island surrounded by salt water, how is the frame?I'm not at my computer, so I'll post pictures this weekend. The PO was originally from Ohio. He said there (and certainly in PA where I live) cars rust from the bottom up. In Hawaii, from the top down.

The frame is great. Not quite as nice as my first car, just the usual rust spots up front. For both cars this winter I'll remove as much as I can from underneath and paint by hand. I expect that to be a week long process.

The car is really dirty though. Did a first wash but it'll need much more.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

06-19-2021, 12:33 PM
Here are some frame pictures the PO took.


06-24-2021, 09:02 AM
I've now spent some quality time with the car, and can report more fully on its condition.

To start with, here's an incomplete list things the PO did replace:

* Combined fuel pump/sender
* Seat rails
* Carpet (it appears I have new, unused spare pieces)
* Windscreen
* Radiator
* Engine mounts
* Y Pipe and other valley components
* Spark plugs, wires, rotor, etc
* Brake master cylinder
* Alternator
* Brake pistons
* New style engine bay harness

This comes to about $8500 in parts, so much of the big spend I'm home has been done.

None of the fluids have been changed in 2 years. The oil pan does appear to be leaking (and the gasket has been replaced), but I know
from previous discussions on this topic, it could easily be elsewhere. In any case, I won't be worrying too much about the engine right now,
apart from doing an oil change, as long as the car can continue to move under its own power.

The car was previously taken apart and reassembled; unfortunately in a somewhat haphazard manner by the PO - missing or mismatched bolts
and washers, poorly aligned panels. Although much of the hardware has been replaced, there's still numerous rusty bolts to remove.

I have the fascias off, for repainting soon. For the front spoiler, I reused studs I had from the trailing arm shields on other car (replaced with the
all-in-one strips), to replace some of the studs. On the rear fascia, all the holes for the lights/license plate are blown out, so will need to be
repaired. The front fascia is in pretty good shape, apart from the paint, and holes for a previous front license plate (not needed here in PA).

Presently trying to remove the rusted up studs for the trailing arm bolt shields - I'll be putting in the all-in-one strips there too. The shields need
cleaning and painting, and it's very likely the TABs are original, or at least, very old (already have a set).

Tires replaced 2 years ago, but no alignment done. They are mismatched, and there's a very slow leak on the rears, perhaps due to a
problem with the rims.

There's a patina of red dust/clay on everything, plus the usual layer of grime, creatures, etc, which is all proving quite difficult to remove.

Driver side mirror needs replacement (I have a spare), and I need to reassemble the mirror switch (I was sent some ball bearings). I've yet
to venture into the doors.

The engine bay fuel lines are updated, however the lines from the pump and accumulator appear to be original, so those will need to be
replaced ASAP.

There's much, much more, but this is off the top of my head.

06-24-2021, 12:43 PM
Quite a project. It's nice that it runs because you don't need to be worried about spending money. With the prices going up you should do fine. You have a giant benifit in that you owned one before.

06-28-2021, 11:42 AM
Still largely at the "taking things apart" stage, rather than putting things back in. I have used many buckets of water on the car to try and get it clean (or at least, cleaner), especially inside, where I'll be refitting the handbrake shortly.

I still have to remove all the rusted studs holding the trailing arm shields, and there's some tub damage around some of the spots. *Everything* in the car needs a clean, but I've now repaired the knee bolster studs, and
will need to repair the console and shifter assembly. The driver mirror (replaced the glass) is almost done - just short some screws for the motor.

I pulled the steering wheel column - I had been concerned about its shape, but it's all surface rust, so I'll clean that up. The wobbliness was due to the loose (and fragile) internal bushing - I have another I'll use.

In the engine bay, I've replaced a bunch of hardware and painted some of the brackets, so that makes a big difference in appearance. I removed the bolted in only compressor, since that's stupidly dirty, and A/C
isn't presently connected anyway.

Next big jobs are to finish repair of fascias and repaint. Hopefully can be back on the road in a few weeks as a rolling restoration.

07-15-2021, 11:36 AM
Finally got the rear inner panels off. The rear speakers, as usual, are trashed. Also, endless dead spiders. The bolsters on these pieces are of course loose too (as per the early VIN design), so I'm drilling out the rivets (and cleaning all the dust inside), and will reattach with glue and small bolts. Having removed these also lets me move the speaker wire to the center console instead of running along the floor with failing duct tape.

The center console is almost ready to go back in - I did end up painting the rubber top piece - this wasn't the best solution, but it looked really gnarly with rust peeking through, and wasn't at all pleasant to look at. The brackets which hold the shifter had loose rivets, so I drilled those out and also replaced with small bolts. Also epoxied the cross plastic piece.

I have removed the hood, and will take next week for a PDR guy to look at. Other panels may eventually have to come off, but hood is by far the worst. Also slowly prepping the trunk for paint - still a lot of goo to remove, but did remove the windshield grill, which was broken in 2 large pieces. Turned out a small broken grill piece was hanging out underneath.

The roofbox - it turns out the PO had done an amazing job with the DPI roofbox, so one less thing, although I am still searching for a missing clip on the rear of the T-Panel (1 of 4) - anyone?

Driver's side seatbelt is slightly frayed; I'm probably going to have to pay up for a replacement one before the car has a chance of passing inspection.

DPI order came in, so hopefully can now assemble the steering (cleaned up the splines and needed new bushing), and reattach the ignition. Also replace the locking gas cap which had a very poor fit with a regular one (I don't have the gas flap hood anyway).

100 other things I've forgotten.

07-15-2021, 01:04 PM
Also replace the locking gas cap which had a very poor fit with a regular one (I don't have the gas flap hood anyway).
If not OEM, make sure it is non-vented.

07-15-2021, 01:07 PM
If not OEM, make sure it is non-vented.

Yes, it's the boring black one from DGo. I was gonna get the stainless one (same price), but the look didn't work for me.

It's this nickel and dime stuff that adds up during a restoration even if you have all the major components covered.

07-15-2021, 01:15 PM
Pics would be nice. My rear speakers don't work. Actually, they make distorted noise. I have them turned off for now, but I'll have to replace them eventually.

07-22-2021, 01:31 PM
Took out the steering column and cleaning all the splines with a needle file. Finally reassembled the steering (new bushing too), mainly so I can reconnect the ignition and peripherals and do
some electrical testing.

The operation of the windows is rough, to say the least - they do have new DPI regulators, but the alignment is bad, so that's on the list. The solenoids look OKish, but I have some in
better condition, so I'll probably put those in.

Still slowly repairing the internal panels and whatnot. I drilled out the rivets on the rear internal panels for the bolsters (they are two parts on early cars of course), which had come loose
from the plastic. Will probably replace with small bolts and washers. The driver side does have large hole drilled in it (I guess for accessing the catch), so debating what to do about that - it one were really really careful
it might be possible to do a graft from under the bolster section.

Still cleaning the trunk for eventual painting - but that's very boring, so going slowly. I painted the rear panel grills with SEM trim black - first time using that, and it came out OK. Also painted the front
spoiler, and working still on fixing the fascias (see my commentary on the sanding fascia thread).

I still need to rotate the otterstat, but the hoses are quite firmly on, and I'm not yet excited about making yet another coolant mess. But I want to do this before I run the engine again.

Meanwhile, 6791 is starting to become needy again, and there's a handful of things I've been putting off like installing DM's LED dimmer, so I'll need to take a break on 1005 shortly.

One thing in particular I need to do is change the TABs. I think they're in good condition on 6791, and I hadn't planned to do until the winter, but that's a manual, and on 1005 they
aren't looking so hot, and that's an auto, which looks to be an royal PITA, so I want to do the easier one first.

08-02-2021, 08:50 AM

My determination to refresh every nut/bolt/screw I can reach has lead to a number of fights with rivnuts, so that's been taking some time. I have the panels off though, haven't yet taken them to be looked at by PDR guy.

I have been cleaning up the wiring in the engine bay - obviously the PO did enough to "make it work", but it could be better. Still prepping the trunk for paint - the goo from around the novelty mounted windshield fluid container is incredibly laborious to remove, so that's going to be a while yet.

08-19-2021, 08:32 AM
Ugh. The further you get in, the more you realize there is to do. As usual, progress is made every day, sometimes I get a rash of things done, but usually it's very slow.

I replaced the fuel lines on the pump easily enough, but the accumulator lines are a different story; still trying to get the ends of the fittings in the tight space,
and I snapped two of the bolts holding the accumulator bracket in place, so have been trying to get a dremel in there.

Meanwhile in the engine bay, I did replace the fuel lines for the frequency valve, but this started a whole lot of messing with the harness routing, and looking more closely
at the vacuum lines. I did start replacing some original hose clamps, but it's clear the vacuum lines have seen better days, and I'll need to make a trip into the
valley to change these and facilitate a better harness routing. Whist this an early VIN car, the rear harness is a newer NOS part purchased by the PO.

Turns out the PoA didn't have its o-ring and cup either - they are in fact in the box of parts and not spares as I had first thought.

Also found out there's a "spare" boot on the CV axle - apparently in good shape, and a missing bolt.

08-19-2021, 12:14 PM
Also found out there's a "spare" boot on the CV axle - apparently in good shape, and a missing bolt.

I suppose if the working boot got a tear, you could cut it off and slide the spare in place. It's not all that hard to remove the axle, but I guess that depends on how busy you are.