How to: remove and install the fuel tank

[jackb]

I originally did this writeup on the .com site when I removed my tank to do some frame repair and replace the fuel tank holding plate.

How to: Remove and install the fuel tank

Tools: fuel siphon, jack/stands, wrenches, phillips screwdriver, long needlenose, ~2' long piece of 2x4,

Supplies: coolant to refill the system

Time: not too long, depends how fast you work. ~1 hour to a few hours, depending.

Difficulty: Not

1- Jack up the front of the car and PUT IT ON JACK STANDS.

2- Remove the cover panels in the bonnet for the fuel pump and the brake master cylinder.

3- Disconnect the 2 fuel line, fuel pump canon plug, fuel level sender canon plug, fuel fill line hose clamp and fuel vent line hose clamp.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/d.jpg

4- Remove either the pump or level sender and siphon all remaining fuel out of the tank. A little bit of fuel in the tank makes a huge weight difference and really increases the difficulty manhandling the tank around on the way out.

5- Disconnect the coolant lines behind the tank, on the passenger side at the radiator and on the drivers side under the brake master cylinder.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/c.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/b.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/a.jpg

6- Remove the fuel tank holding plate. The tank won't fall. At the 6:00 position on the tank there's a... nub, or round part, does nothing, but on mine there was a ground wire passing by it that was zip-tied to it. Cut the zip tie so you don't break the wire when the tank comes out. You'll see foam between the tank and frame. I used a pair of needlenose pliers and a long flatheat to pull/rip/pry as much as I could out. Not 100% necessary, but it was difficult enough to pry the tank out that I feel like it made a difference.

7- Using the 2x4, wedge it between the body of the car and the top of the tank. Pry the back of the tank down.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/e.jpg

8- Keep at it, and the whole thing will eventually come out. Once it's about halfway out it becomes significantly easier.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/f.jpg

9- Once the back of the tank is on the ground, you can pull it aft and free from under the car.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/g.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/h.jpg

Installation:
1- Scroll up instead of down.
2- To get the tank into place, put it on the ledge in front, push it up as much as you can with your hands, then use a jack to press it in place.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/k.jpg
3- reconnect everything.
4- Fill the tank
3- Refill/bleed the coolant system

[D-guy]

Hi folks. Sorry if this isn't the right place to ask this.
I'm having trouble sourcing new foam (foam-rubber?) for the tank and coolant pipes. Any ideas on where to get it? Specifically up here in the great white north?
Cheers!


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[sdg3205]

See item # 57 and up.

DeLorean Store (https://store.delorean.com/c-274-2-1-0-tankhosespumpaccumulatoretc.aspx)

[Mark D]

Hi folks. Sorry if this isn't the right place to ask this.
I'm having trouble sourcing new foam (foam-rubber?) for the tank and coolant pipes. Any ideas on where to get it? Specifically up here in the great white north?
Cheers!


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DMCH used to offer all the padding in a kit, PN K106685. It no longer comes up as a valid search on the website, but you can still see a picture of it still here:

http://store.delorean.com/c-404-10-2-1-fuel-emissions.aspx

(Item #1 in the photo, but there is no corresponding item in the parts list)

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39063&d=1452615636

I'd try calling your favorite local DMC dealer (I always go through DMCMW) and see if they still sell it as a kit. I paid 26.79 back in 2012 but I think prices have gone up since then. Otherwise from the photo it looks like the kit included:

106686 (Fuel Tank Front) Qty 2
106689 (Fuel Tank Bottom) Qty 1
106711 (Short Pad for Coolant Pipes) Qty 1
106687 (Fuel tank Sides) Qty 5
106688 (Fuel Tank Rear) Qty 2
106685 (Fuel Filter) Qty 1


.
.
.
106687 (Fuel tank sides) now appears to be NLA according to the store, so that may be the reason for the discontinuation of the kit. I'm sure if you called a vendor they could point you to a suitable replacement for that specific PN. There may be a new "Improved" reproduction version that just hasn't been updated yet on the website.

[Tillsy]

Seriously?!?

Just go to your local pool or hardware shop and buy a roll of stick-on foam for a few bucks. Cut it to shape, peel off the sticker, and stick on.

You don't need DMC certified precision cut decafinated ultra enhanced tailored made to your specific VIN range foam pieces.

[DMCVegas]

Seriously?!?

Just go to your local pool or hardware shop and buy a roll of stick-on foam for a few bucks. Cut it to shape, peel off the sticker, and stick on.

You don't need DMC certified precision cut decafinated ultra enhanced tailored made to your specific VIN range foam pieces.

Quite possibly (as I don't know if there are different specs and ratings), you're absolutely right. But a big part of that is also supporting your vendors as well. Especially for something so low-cost as it currently is priced.

[Mark D]

It's a little more complicated than just buying a roll of one type of foam since the large pieces at the front of the tank are very thick and wide. The triangular shaped piece for the fuel tank closing plate is only 1/16 of an inch thick. The strips for the sides are about 1/4 in thick and could be cut off a roll, but a whole roll would be way more than you need. I think the cheapest route to go is buying from a vendor since you only pay for what you need and no extra.

The tank is also a tight fit so going with the OE size pieces ensures it will fit back in and not be too loose or too tight. Distorting the tank from wedging it in with too much foam could cause the level sender or pump to bottom out in the tank to the point where the threaded cap would not fit on tight.

Just a few things to consider anyway.

[D-guy]

For sure. I have some feelers (emails) out right now. I haven't come across anything local that had the width and apparent density of the oem stuff.




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[Tillsy]

Try a pool/rubber shop - I was quite surprised to find some of them specifically specialise in rubber and foam for any application not just pools, and were experienced with and immediately pointed me to a wide dense roll they recommend for automotive use.

Sure heaps left over but a few bucks versus over thirty, I'm not a math teacher but it irked out cheap and holy money have I found that foam useful so many times since.

Just be sure to tell the shop what it is for so they recommend the right stuff.

[D-guy]

Found some! A local shop specializing in foam, plastic, custom gaskets, etc... 17$ for a 25 ft roll for the sides and he gave me some of the thicker stuff free. Problem solved. [emoji3]


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