Fascia Removal Procedure

[paul_haga]

Well...this is officially my first post on DMCTalk.org! ;)

Does anyone have a quick step-by-step for removing the front and rear fascia of the car?

I'm going to be repainting both this summer at some point and would like to know what I'm getting into. Any tips would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!

-Paul

[Patrick C]

After having recently done this, do yourself a favor and have them painted ON the car.

[paul_haga]

After having recently done this, do yourself a favor and have them painted ON the car.

Really??? Everyone is telling me to take them off because you can't get all of the edges of the fascia properly prepared and painted otherwise. I'm definitely willing to put the time into removing them. I'm not really looking for a short cut. Also, is $800 a fair price from a custom auto painter to strip and paint the fascia's? I'm also filling the license plate holes on the front bumper.

-Paul

[dmc6960]

The problem is removing them if they have never been removed before. In that situation all the fasteners are rusted and break when removing them. Then your left with fascias and an airdam with no means to bolt back onto the car. There are replacement studs you can get for just this situation though. If your fascias have been off in lets say, the last 10 years or so, removal shouldn't be too hard. I can assist if you'd like. I do plan on removing mine for repainting.

Jim Reeve
DMC6960

[DMCMW Dave]

I'd say that's a reasonable price on carry-in loose fascias. You'll find that the cost of painting varies tremendously around the country, and you'll find that a place like Maaco will paint facias for about $100. No telling how long it will stick though. . . .

The main disadvantage to painting them on the car is the area right around the headlights is hard to get to. Also just above the tail pipes.

A good compromise might be to remove the headlight bulbs for the guy. Make sure that the parking lights, tail lights, and rear license frame will come off so he doesn't have to drill out rusty screws.

Removing the rear fascia is not a big deal assuming you don't break off the little studs across the bottom. Unplug the rear wiring harness at the bulkhead, remove the rear marker lights, and pull off the fascia whole including the inner fiberglass piece and the harness. Oh - if the added 1/4-20 screws are in place into the pontoons, remove the tail lights, carbon cannister, and cold air intake tube to get to the bolts and nuts.


As Patrick mentions the front can be a real PITA.

1 - remove trunk lid
2 - remove spoiler (and probably break studs) You may have to remove the fan shroud, spinning riv nuts and avoiding braking the condenser
3 - remove lower grille (and probably break studs so you buy a new grille
4 - remove the washer pump cover for access (spinning more rivnuts all the way)
5 - remove all the screws across the top, probably breaking/spinning some rusty clip-nuts, or breaking off bolts
6 - remove the parking lights
7 - find the mystery studs on the sides so you can carefully pry the fascia loose there.

Now put it back together without scratching or cracking your new paint.

[DMCNY]

1 - remove trunk lid

7 - find the mystery studs on the sides so you can carefully pry the fascia loose there.



I did find a way to short cut this without removing the hood/trunk lid. (If it helps and you don't wish to remove it)

Get a phillips bit (the kind you can switch in and out of a 1/4" nut driver) and use just the bit with a 1/4" opened end wrench. Takes a little patience and a little time but comes in handy, too if noone is around to help you remove the hood.

Those mystery nuts are a biatch! For me, I found the easiest way was to use a long skinny flat tip/regular screwdriver and push on the tips of the studs from the inside-out to "unhook" the fascia from the fenders.

Have fun! :D

[Patrick C]

Now put it back together without scratching or cracking your new paint.

:bang:

[Ryan King]

There is also a good write up about the removal in your Shop Manual. Thats how I did mine.

[sdg3205]

Ya, just go for it. It's a good skill to have anyway. Plus, since this isnt a mechanical nightmare, you can bead blast all the nuts and bolts and use anti seize compound when you reinstall the fresh fasicas. Some break. Some spin. Just have a couple beers on hand.

I had mine done at Concept Muscle Cars (http://conceptmusclecars.com/). Unbelievable work!

649650651652653

[Oddfire]

There is also a good write up about the removal in your Shop Manual. Thats how I did mine.

There's also a very good write up in the DCS magazine, volume 1, issue 4.

http://www.robomerchant.net/deloreancarshow/cart.php?target=product&product_id=258&category_id=64

I found the shop manual a little difficult to interpret.

[yellowmxwheels23]

This is exactly why I'm going up to DMCCA today to have them work on mine. I don't mind paying the money to support a vendor.

[fnzen]

what the going rate to remove and reapply?

[yellowmxwheels23]

what the going rate to remove and reapply?

Quoted $1200 to remove, fix minor eyebrows, repaint and install

[Patrick C]

Quoted $1200 to remove, fix minor eyebrows, repaint and install

I paid over $700 for painting alone. Included the fascia color and gloss black bumpers. BTW, 2011 Jeep Mineral Grey Metallic is a nice looking fascia color for those who can't get an exact match on the original.

[nullset]

I just removed my front fender. Removing the hood was not terrible at all. I don't see any reason to work harder than you have to….

Then again, we'll see if I'm still agreeing with that when it's time to put it back on……

Off to the paint shop my front bumper goes!

--buddy

[yellowmxwheels23]

It came out to $1700 and change with new floor mats.

[Jonathan]

I'd say that's a reasonable price on carry-in loose fascias. You'll find that the cost of painting varies tremendously around the country, and you'll find that a place like Maaco will paint facias for about $100. No telling how long it will stick though. . . .

The main disadvantage to painting them on the car is the area right around the headlights is hard to get to. Also just above the tail pipes.

A good compromise might be to remove the headlight bulbs for the guy. Make sure that the parking lights, tail lights, and rear license frame will come off so he doesn't have to drill out rusty screws.

Removing the rear fascia is not a big deal assuming you don't break off the little studs across the bottom. Unplug the rear wiring harness at the bulkhead, remove the rear marker lights, and pull off the fascia whole including the inner fiberglass piece and the harness. Oh - if the added 1/4-20 screws are in place into the pontoons, remove the tail lights, carbon cannister, and cold air intake tube to get to the bolts and nuts.


As Patrick mentions the front can be a real PITA.

1 - remove trunk lid
2 - remove spoiler (and probably break studs) You may have to remove the fan shroud, spinning riv nuts and avoiding braking the condenser
3 - remove lower grille (and probably break studs so you buy a new grille
4 - remove the washer pump cover for access (spinning more rivnuts all the way)
5 - remove all the screws across the top, probably breaking/spinning some rusty clip-nuts, or breaking off bolts
6 - remove the parking lights
7 - find the mystery studs on the sides so you can carefully pry the fascia loose there.

Now put it back together without scratching or cracking your new paint.


I did find a way to short cut this without removing the hood/trunk lid. (If it helps and you don't wish to remove it)

Get a phillips bit (the kind you can switch in and out of a 1/4" nut driver) and use just the bit with a 1/4" opened end wrench. Takes a little patience and a little time but comes in handy, too if noone is around to help you remove the hood.

Those mystery nuts are a biatch! For me, I found the easiest way was to use a long skinny flat tip/regular screwdriver and push on the tips of the studs from the inside-out to "unhook" the fascia from the fenders.

Have fun! :D

Haha, love old threads!

I am removing my front fascia and Dave's 7th point is exactly where I'm at!!

Does anyone have pictures of the sides of their car with the fascia removed (or some other suitable angle) that would show me what these mystery studs look like?

I can feel approximately where the resistance is to getting it off and it seems like it is just above the point on the sides of the fascia where the black portion begins (from the bottom). Would love to have a visual of what I'm getting into before trying to wiggle a flat headed screw driver in there hoping for the best. And I needed a break anyway after bonking my head off the cold concrete trying to wiggle under to look and see. Getting lots of use out of my new winter season swear word collection already!! Yippey!

[DMC-81]

Haha, love old threads!

I am removing my front fascia and Dave's 7th point is exactly where I'm at!!

Does anyone have pictures of the sides of their car with the fascia removed (or some other suitable angle) that would show me what these mystery studs look like?

I can feel approximately where the resistance is to getting it off and it seems like it is just above the point on the sides of the fascia where the black portion begins (from the bottom). Would love to have a visual of what I'm getting into before trying to wiggle a flat headed screw driver in there hoping for the best. And I needed a break anyway after bonking my head off the cold concrete trying to wiggle under to look and see. Getting lots of use out of my new winter season swear word collection already!! Yippey!

Hi Jonathan,

Here are a couple pics. In the first one you can see the M6 stud on the right embedded in the urethane. You'll be looking for a M6 nut on each side to remove that holds down a metal bracket that grabs the edge of the fender.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=37317&d=1445123549

Here is the fender with the fascia removed:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=37798&d=1446685893

If these aren't what you need I'll see if I have more on my computer. Good luck with the job.

[Jonathan]

Hi Jonathan,

Here are a couple pics. In the first one you can see the M6 stud on the right embedded in the urethane. You'll be looking for a M6 nut on each side to remove that holds down a metal bracket that grabs the edge of the fender.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=37317&d=1445123549

Here is the fender with the fascia removed:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=37798&d=1446685893

If these aren't what you need I'll see if I have more on my computer. Good luck with the job.

Thanks Dana. Just knowing that I'm looking for the stud connected to the fiberglass and the nut to come off is better than what I had in mind beforehand. I'll see how I make out knowing that!

[Jonathan]

Ok. Things are progressing well with the disassembly and I haven't snapped anything. Yet. I got those last two studs to pop out like described. Then the fascia pulls off. I think I had to re-close the hood to let that slim piece slide out and maybe tip the bottom edge of the fascia up to finally get the upper edge to release.

I have the headlight housing assemblies out and the foam bumper off too. Only one of those five brackets is still attached to the car. Looks reasonably ok all things considered.

I found a piece of tape behind the bumper with what I think is 3580 (or maybe 3380) written on it. My VIN is 3937 so this is perhaps another "numbers not quite matching" aspect of the cars? Any idea what the "B" is for? There is one on the fiberglas (that was covered by the foam bumper) and another B up on the stainless edge just under the front lip of the hood. Guess I got the "B" car?

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