How to Remove Fuel Distributor form Mixture Unit

[1batt4u]

Hi all,

I wanted to know how to remove the fuel distributor form the mixture unit??

[DMCMW Dave]

Hi all,
I wanted to know how to remove the fuel distributor form the mixture unit??

With a flat-blade screwdriver.

Take out the three screws that hold it there. After you take all the hoses off.

[Delorean Industries]

When you pull the unit up be careful as the metering valve will fall out of the bottom. When you reinstall the unit make sure you install a new o ring underneath. This is over looked some times.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I had to use an impact driver on those three screws. The type you hold with a twist and hit with a hammer.

[1batt4u]

Thank you for the info guys!!! My unit has been off the car for awhile, since I am working on it. Actually that was pretty simple!! I was going from under it to remove it, I didn't even notice those 3 screws on top!! I'm losing it!

Thank you!!!

[Delorean Industries]

Are you refurbishing all of your engine components while the engine is apart?

[1batt4u]

Yes, I am trying to!

Having trouble finding 7mm bolts. Why is it impossible to get 7mm bolts here in the US?? They have 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 9mm, 10mm. Why not 7mm, doesn't make sense!

[Henrik]

Yes, I am trying to!

Having trouble finding 7mm bolts. Why is it impossible to get 7mm bolts here in the US?? They have 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 9mm, 10mm. Why not 7mm, doesn't make sense!

Having grown up in Europe (and being a mechanical engineer) I do agree that 7 mm bolts is very uncommon even "over there". I would be intetrested to hear why the PRV engineers selected that size. Finding 7 mm bolts is not that hard. Check www.mcmaster.com for example. My local Autozone store even stocks some lenghts of it. Now, if you are looking for partially threaded (preferred for better strength) and even stainless bolts, then it gets harder to find. I can check where I sourced my partially threaded M7s from a few years ago if you'd like. Of course, DMC sells them all too.

[Rokkinlen]

With a flat-blade screwdriver.

Take out the three screws that hold it there. After you take all the hoses off.

—————————-

Do you have to take all the hoses off? I am going into my VOD and already replaced all my fuel lines last year. I was hoping to leave them connected to the FD and just separate the FD from the air metering unit housing.

Is this doable?

[82DMC12]

—————————-

Do you have to take all the hoses off? I am going into my VOD and already replaced all my fuel lines last year. I was hoping to leave them connected to the FD and just separate the FD from the air metering unit housing.

Is this doable?

It is very doable to get to the VOD without removing all the fuel lines. You only need to remove the fuel feed line (from the fuel filter) and the fuel return line (back to the tank). To get to the VOD, here is what I do assuming everything comes apart just nicely -



Disconnect battery (technically not required but good practice otherwise)
Remove air filter box
Remove W-pipe
Remove electrical plugs from the cold start valve, control pressure regulator, idle speed motor, and frequency valve
Disconnect two wires from the back of the idle speed microswitch
Remove throttle linkage arm from the throttle body (the part that touches the idle speed microswitch)
Remove throttle bracket with spool and arm attached and set aside (no need to remove the throttle wire if you're OK setting the bracket out of the way). Don't forget to disconnect the full throttle switch and the kickdown (if auto trans)
Remove idle motor by unscrewing the two allen cap screws that hold the idle motor mounting ring to the bracket on the driver side of the intake. Loosen the ring around the motor and remove the ring. Remove the idle motor from the pipe of pain and the rear of the cold start valve.
Slide the pipe of pain out of the air meter unit
Disconnect cold start valve from the cold start pipe (2 allen cap screws)
Remove the vacuum advance canister from the rear of the air meter unit
Remove two allen cap screws that hold the CPR to the driver side valve cover. Disconnect the vacuum line source at the Tee.
Remove vacuum lines (small) from driver side rear intake manifold and (large) from passenger side rear intake manifold. Remove carbon canister vacuum line from under the air meter (front of the meter)
Disconnect two grounds from the top driver side of the intake manifold and one from the side of the passenger side intake manifold
Remove fuel feed line from back of fuel distributor. Thread the hollow bolt and copper washers a few threads back into the FD so you don't lose them.
Remove fuel return line from side of fuel distributor. Put the hollow bolt and washer back into the FD, in order, with the frequency valve line attached, a few threads so you don't lose them. Do not screw in all the way!
Remove the two allen cap screws that hold the S-brackets for the air meter to the intake manifold
Unseat the injectors from their holes, leaving the boots and clips on the injectors
Pile the Control pressure regulator, six injectors, and frequency valve onto the throttle body area and make sure they are not wrapped around spark plug wires or other hoses, etc.
Lift the thottle body and completely air meter house with injectors, etc as one unit and set aside
Disconnect any clips that hold the engine wiring harness to the intake manifold
Remove the cold start valve pipe from the center of the intake manifold and set it aside
Remove four screws that hold the intake manifold to the engine and lift it out, maneuvering around the engine wiring harness


That should about do it - do this three or four times in your life and you can do all this in about 30 minutes! Actually not a terrible idea to clean out the valley every three or four years and do a cooling system pressure check.

68583

[Rokkinlen]

This is great!! Thank you SO much. It came in super handy yesterday when I got down to the VOD.


It is very doable to get to the VOD without removing all the fuel lines. You only need to remove the fuel feed line (from the fuel filter) and the fuel return line (back to the tank). To get to the VOD, here is what I do assuming everything comes apart just nicely -



Disconnect battery (technically not required but good practice otherwise)
Remove air filter box
Remove W-pipe
Remove electrical plugs from the cold start valve, control pressure regulator, idle speed motor, and frequency valve
Disconnect two wires from the back of the idle speed microswitch
Remove throttle linkage arm from the throttle body (the part that touches the idle speed microswitch)
Remove throttle bracket with spool and arm attached and set aside (no need to remove the throttle wire if you're OK setting the bracket out of the way). Don't forget to disconnect the full throttle switch and the kickdown (if auto trans)
Remove idle motor by unscrewing the two allen cap screws that hold the idle motor mounting ring to the bracket on the driver side of the intake. Loosen the ring around the motor and remove the ring. Remove the idle motor from the pipe of pain and the rear of the cold start valve.
Slide the pipe of pain out of the air meter unit
Disconnect cold start valve from the cold start pipe (2 allen cap screws)
Remove the vacuum advance canister from the rear of the air meter unit
Remove two allen cap screws that hold the CPR to the driver side valve cover. Disconnect the vacuum line source at the Tee.
Remove vacuum lines (small) from driver side rear intake manifold and (large) from passenger side rear intake manifold. Remove carbon canister vacuum line from under the air meter (front of the meter)
Disconnect two grounds from the top driver side of the intake manifold and one from the side of the passenger side intake manifold
Remove fuel feed line from back of fuel distributor. Thread the hollow bolt and copper washers a few threads back into the FD so you don't lose them.
Remove fuel return line from side of fuel distributor. Put the hollow bolt and washer back into the FD, in order, with the frequency valve line attached, a few threads so you don't lose them. Do not screw in all the way!
Remove the two allen cap screws that hold the S-brackets for the air meter to the intake manifold
Unseat the injectors from their holes, leaving the boots and clips on the injectors
Pile the Control pressure regulator, six injectors, and frequency valve onto the throttle body area and make sure they are not wrapped around spark plug wires or other hoses, etc.
Lift the thottle body and completely air meter house with injectors, etc as one unit and set aside
Disconnect any clips that hold the engine wiring harness to the intake manifold
Remove the cold start valve pipe from the center of the intake manifold and set it aside
Remove four screws that hold the intake manifold to the engine and lift it out, maneuvering around the engine wiring harness


That should about do it - do this three or four times in your life and you can do all this in about 30 minutes! Actually not a terrible idea to clean out the valley every three or four years and do a cooling system pressure check.

68583

[82DMC12]

This is great!! Thank you SO much. It came in super handy yesterday when I got down to the VOD.

You're welcome! Did I miss anything? It was all off memory :-)

[mark w]

You can buy quality 7mm hex bolts in standard zinc and yellow zinc here

https://belmetric.com/m7x1-0-coarse-din-931-933-hex-bolts-8-8/

[82DMC12]

You can buy quality 7mm hex bolts in standard zinc and yellow zinc here

https://belmetric.com/m7x1-0-coarse-din-931-933-hex-bolts-8-8/

Thanks Mark! Great website... When you order the length, is that the shank only, or does it include the cap (so overall length is measured)?

Andy

[Mark D]

Hex head bolts are measured from the bottom of the head to the end of the fastener. Same is true for socket head cap screws, button head screws, etc. In general, you're measuring from the surface where the fastener will be installed to the end of the fastener.

For flat head countersunk screws, you would measure to the top of the head since it sits flush with the material.

[GS450-Junkie]

Anyone ever paint the fuel distributor or that entire assembly while it's off?