Rust repair - 2930?

[nullset]

Here's a picture of some rust on #2930:
752

What's the preferred method for dealing with this? There are also some smaller areas where I can see cracks in the epoxy, but it's not actually broken, or at least doesn't appear to be. Should I leave these alone, or should I fix them as well? Overall, this frame is in excellent shape. In fact, this is the largest rust spot I've found. The rest are tiny bits along the edges.

[Patrick C]

Here's a picture of some rust on #2930:
752

What's the preferred method for dealing with this? There are also some smaller areas where I can see cracks in the epoxy, but it's not actually broken, or at least doesn't appear to be. Should I leave these alone, or should I fix them as well? Overall, this frame is in excellent shape. In fact, this is the largest rust spot I've found. The rest are tiny bits along the edges.

If you see cracks in the epoxy, its safe bet there is rust under it. Chisel/scrape off the loose epoxy and repaint with POR-15 or equivalent.

[DMCMW Dave]

If, after you clean it up you find holes, it's best to get them welded closed for structural integrity.

[nullset]

If, after you clean it up you find holes, it's best to get them welded closed for structural integrity.

There are no holes, so far at least.

Fortunately, I do have access to a skilled metal worker if I do find some.

--buddy

[David T]

Remove the paint and the rust to properly assess the damage. If the metal is very thin or you see holes the section should be cut out and replaced by a good welder.
David Teitelbaum

[dmc6960]

Hit that thing with a wirewheel on a powerdrill. That'll clean it up in a hurry. Then assess the rest of the metal and like everyone else has suggested, if compromised weld up a repair.

[content22207]

Here's a sobering thought: the "thick" front crossmember between the shock towers is actually several layers of ultra thin sheet metal that aren't even laminated -- they're just laying on top of each other. I assume the engine cradle is similar. There is no thick metal in our frames whatsoever -- just layers of sheet metal (that are so thin they are very liable to vaporize when you weld to them). I am going to rig up jacking pads for both of my cars to transfer the jack load to the vertical edges of the crossmember.

I bet our frames would twist and torque like a serpent if it weren't for the fiberglass body (hardly a stable platform to hold a frame together...). Very different from an old VW frame, which is 100% self supporting.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[nullset]

I got some much higher quality pics of the frame. They are up on the picasa link above. I'll post a few here that I want to mention specifically.

Take a look at the picasa link, starting here: https://picasaweb.google.com/nullset/BTTFDelorean?authkey=Gv1sRgCJClrdeJ6fnJfw#56162519 55505923618

The first few pictures are some fiberglass damage in the front. I need some advice on how to properly repair that. I've never worked with fiber glass before.

After that, you'll see lots of pictures of the frame. The first major spot of rust is here:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C1Edtgxd2so/TfDvyBfLFhI/AAAAAAAALVQ/lQ-OxZUHLlk/s800/DSC_5476.JPG

On the other side:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Dg8e6JombiA/TfDv0y6Zb-I/AAAAAAAALVc/zgq1m8oxe9g/s800/DSC_5478.JPG

Looking at those two, I think that welding may be required to clean this up properly. Do I need to remove the old epoxy? How do I remove it? An angle grinder? Wire brush? How far around the damage should I go? When I have a new piece of metal welded in, what kind of metal should it be? Once it's welded, I cover it with POR-15, then spray paint it? (I lost the info on the recommended spray paint that blends well into the frame from the old dmctalk)

That's the major damage. You can keep going through picasa and you'll see lots of minor damage. I'm assuming the same advice applies. For some, it looks like surface cracks in the epoxy, like this:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pcdP-wSyTek/TfDwJ67v6SI/AAAAAAAALWw/46Qc6mA47Vc/s800/DSC_5494.JPG

Or this:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wiFMMXqL8zs/TfDwPnZ0RyI/AAAAAAAALXQ/k9UFzSsedw0/s800/DSC_5498.JPG

Do those both look like they should be treated the same as the major spot in the front?

Does anyone know what the black stuff is in this photo:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Qnh7BZw7VR0/TfDwZeNIaXI/AAAAAAAALX0/cWKdEy51x8A/s800/DSC_5505.JPG

(and others). Does it need to be removed? Should I leave it alone?

Thanks for the advice, and sorry for the image heavy post. For real information overload, click through all the pictures on picasa, and feel free to link specific ones you'd like to ask about here.

[content22207]

Your frame is in better condition than 90% of them out there. Just knock off the loose epoxy, clean up the metal underneath, then paint it with your preferred paint of choice.

Epoxy coating our frames was a terrible idea in the first place. Epoxy is totally inflexible, yet the frame twists significantly, hence cracking and attendant rust underneath (effects of which are magnified because the sheet metal used is extremely low carbon). We really would have been better off if our frames were simply painted to begin with. Even better would have been to use high carbon steel like most other car frames (even Volkswagens).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[banzai]

where can I get POR-15 or equivalent?

[StainlessBullet]

where can I get POR-15 or equivalent?

http://www.por15.com/

[DMCMW Dave]

where can I get POR-15 or equivalent?

http://www.por15.com/

http://eastwoodco.com/

[banzai]

Thanks, all
Banzai


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