PDA

View Full Version : General The restoration of 2930



nullset
06-06-2011, 09:25 PM
I thought I'd go ahead and start a new thread documenting my work so far and my future plans.

So far:
- Removed the interior
- Separated the body and frame (thanks SEDOC!)
- Removed Exhaust
- Removed Engine
- Removed Transmission
- Removed Radiator brackets, supports, etc
- Cleaned the frame thoroughly
- Removed all brake calipers
- Turned all the rotors ( Napa, $13 / rotor. SWEET)

Goals: I want the car drivable in the Dragoncon parade. That's Labor Day Weekend, Sept 3rd. I also want some BTTF props on it. Hopefully they will be better than the ones on there now.

To accomplish this goal, I need a set of checkpoints I can make….
- Fix rust problems (slight)
- Rebuild front suspension
- Rebuild brake calipers
- Rebuild rear suspension
- Clean up radiator / mounting / etc
- Reinstall engine/transmission
- Pressure test coolant system
- Reinstall intake manifold
- Re-unify body and frame
- Connect electrical connections between the frame and the engine
- Put new oil in the engine
- Drain/flush the transmission fluid?
- Start the engine
- Put the doors back together enough that I can safely open and close them
- Drive off into the sunset
- Start working on the exterior props

Now, a few unknowns:
- The engine. I have no idea if it's good at all or how good it is. It was spray painted blue. There's lots of dirt inside the VOD, and I can't figure out the best way to clean it. Should I attempt to clean it? POR-15 it? How? The engine is currently on an engine stand.

- Should I replace all the gaskets in the engine, or wait and see how it does?

- The transmission. I have no idea if it works….I hope it does…..
- The electrical system. There's lots of rat poop everywhere, but it seems like none of the wires are chewed through. There's evidence of a past fuse box failure (#19 fuse looks like it melted. It's routed externally)

Raise your hand if you think I'm insane! If you want to help, just show up at Freeside! :)

What else should I do while it's almost completely stripped down to a bare frame?


--buddy

nullset
07-21-2011, 12:00 PM
An update, for those interested:

The body/frame were split and the rust has been repaired. What started as "oh it's just a little bit of rust, it's not bad" ended with most of the driver side crumble tube needing to be replaced.

Nonetheless, it's now rust free!

Here's my rough todo list;

Seriously though, I put the brake calipers back on the rear last night. Here's my legitimate list and rough order:
- Mate engine and transmission
- Put engine and transmission into frame
- Connect transmission cooling lines
- Reassemble gas tank / fuel pump /etc and install in frame
- Reinstall radiator, run lines
- Install intake manifold and exhaust
- Put body/frame back together
- Connect everything that joins the body and frame, etc
- Reinstall rear bumper
- Drive off into the sunset…(hopefully)
- Change transmission fluid?
- Rebuild enough of the interior that I can drive it in the parade
- if there's time, make new props. if not, reinstall the crappy ones…..
- Parade!


Anyone wanting to help out any time, can contact me. I'm working nights and weekends until labor day to get it done.

I'll provide anyone that helps with food and/or beer….. :)

--buddy

nullset
07-22-2011, 01:32 AM
An update, for those interested:

- Reassemble gas tank / fuel pump /etc and install in frame


Gas tank 'interior' is now reassembled. I still need to install it and run the various hoses.

The engine is off the stand and ready to be mated to the transmission. Unfortunately, I seem to have misplaced some bolts….uh oh.

If I can't find them I'll see if I can find some at NAPA, or order them from DMCH.

A quick question….when reinstalling the transmission, should I drain the fluid in the torque converter? Should I then leave it empty, or fill it with fresh fluid? Are there any other 'gotchas' I need to be aware of?

--buddy

sean
07-22-2011, 06:53 AM
The engine is off the stand and ready to be mated to the transmission. Unfortunately, I seem to have misplaced some bolts….uh oh.

Oh noes!



A quick question….when reinstalling the transmission, should I drain the fluid in the torque converter? Should I then leave it empty, or fill it with fresh fluid? Are there any other 'gotchas' I need to be aware of?

I would drain it just because you don't know the history. If this was a regular driver I would leave it filled. Did you clean the transmission filter yet?

nullset
07-22-2011, 10:41 AM
Oh noes!




I would drain it just because you don't know the history. If this was a regular driver I would leave it filled. Did you clean the transmission filter yet?

Should I refill it with fresh fluid?

I haven't done the filter yet. Do I need any parts for that? (Such as a new gasket over the drain pan)? I'll put that on the 'todo' list.

--buddy

sean
07-22-2011, 10:56 AM
Should I refill it with fresh fluid?
You can.


I haven't done the filter yet. Do I need any parts for that? (Such as a new gasket over the drain pan)? I'll put that on the 'todo' list.
Can of carb cleaner plus a pan gasket (http://www.delorean.com/store/p-8783-gasket.aspx) and a filter gasket (http://www.delorean.com/store/p-8817-fllter-gasket.aspx).

nullset
07-22-2011, 11:27 AM
New bolts ordered!

Thanks to James and Cameron at DMCH for helping me find the right bolts to order.

--buddy

nullset
07-31-2011, 10:25 PM
An update….

- Engine/transmission are mated and back in the frame
- I still need to fill the transmission with fluid/etc. The filter has been cleaned and I've got new gaskets, though.
- Fuel tank will be in tomorrow night.
- Radiator is reattached.

I've lost more bolts than I thought! I've ordered new bolts for the transmission mount. I'm reordering bolts as I go.

Next step:
- fill transmission fluid and final drive
- reconnect and fill radiator
- pressure test cooling system
- install new engine/transmission mounting bolts when they arrive
- run new fuel lines and install new accumulator when it arrives

After this, I think I'm ready to merge the body and the frame.

--buddy

sean
07-31-2011, 10:41 PM
Moving right along! How is the engine/transmission in the frame without the mounting bolst?

nullset
07-31-2011, 11:42 PM
Moving right along! How is the engine/transmission in the frame without the mounting bolts?

The engine mount is there and bolted to the frame. The engine is sitting on it's mount, just not bolted in.The transmission is supported by a floor jack (bad, i know). I have one or two bolts in the tranmission as well. The hoist is also still there just in case, but it's not bearing any weight.

--buddy

nullset
08-05-2011, 11:41 PM
Update! I reattached the W-pipe and pressure tested the coolant system. SUCCESS[1]

Next, I'm going to finish installing the hoses for the gas tank and the new accumulator.

I'm still possibly on track for body/frame reunification on Sunday if I can get a few more helpers.

Anyone that wants to come by freeside tomorrow or Sunday will be put to work!

Tasks for the weekend:
- Reassemble and pressure test fuel system (as much as possible)
- Reinstall intake manifold [2]
- Pressure test fuel system[3]
- Unify body/frame[3]

Also, offer stands that if anyone needs AC work done, bring your car down. I'll evacuate, inspect, and recharge your AC.

--buddy

[1]: With three exceptions: The heater valve is rusted out and needs to be replaced (currently replaced by a short piece of tube), the heater core is in the body, and likewise replaced with a piece of tube, and my coolant tester itself is having trouble getting a good seal….. time to 'return' the loaned tool to auto zone, i guess

[2]: Assuming I'm not missing any more screws…..
[3]: Or banjo bolts…..
[2/3]: Also, I'm not sure of the order of these two. I think the intake manifold goes on first….

Come to Freeside this weekend! 675 Metropolitan Parkway, Atlanta, Ga 30303. Gate code is 5345*. I'm in Suite 6066, which is building E (the right most building as you enter the space). You'll see a delorean parked out front…. PM me for my phone number if you want to come by and don't have it. I'll provide lunch and 'beverages' for anyone that shows up!

nullset
08-07-2011, 07:50 PM
W-pipe above should be Y-pipe.

Today I reinstalled the electrical harness and vacuum tube bits that are under the intake manifold, and reinstalled the intake manifold.

I had to use two thread repairs coils on the W-pipe, but now it's torqued down and happy. The fuel and spark plug lines are going to be installed next, then I'm going to try to clip down the fuel lines AGAIN. I hate those clips….

After that, I should be able to put some fuel in the tank and pressure test the fuel system. I'll pull the injectors and check their spray pattern. If they're bad, no problem, as I already have some new ones!

Oh, I also reinstalled and lined up the distributor. I'll have to do the timing light thing when the engine is startable. I also got a compression tester so I can do that test if I decide to.

After that, I..still have a ton of work to do! :)

But I'll get there.

--buddy

sean
08-07-2011, 07:55 PM
Progress pics would be nice. :)

nullset
08-07-2011, 07:57 PM
Progress pics would be nice. :)

That's crazy talk! I've been far too busy to post pictures!

If I have to install another thread repair (I hope not!) I'll take pictures of the process and post it as a howto.

--buddy

sean
08-07-2011, 08:08 PM
I just want to see what 2930 looks like now.

nullset
08-07-2011, 11:05 PM
Things I learned today:

- Check that all the O-rings are still seated when you're about to bolt down the intake manifold!

Fortunately, I have an amazing set of flex head ratcheting wrenches. I managed to wiggle the manifold loose enough that I could place the O-ring without removing everything else (mix unit, fuel lines, yada yada.) I was almost done reinstalling everything when I noticed!

Sean, I found one of my missing banjo bolts! In an injector, nonetheless! At least now I have a spare.

New pictures start here: https://picasaweb.google.com/nullset/BTTFDelorean?authkey=Gv1sRgCJClrdeJ6fnJfw#56383095 76620433746

Sean, here you can see rust on my injectors. I'll send the old ones off to Hervey to see if he can clean any or all of them, then I'll have a few spares.

I'll take more pictures later. For now, I have a fuel system to finish putting together!

Still to go:
- Reinstall exhaust
- Tighten all the fuel line bolts
- Install plug wires and related things
- Pipe of Agony
- reinstall alternator
- reinstall A/C compressor
- Run brake plumbing lines
- Figure out what this thing is and whether I need to do something to replace it ( https://picasaweb.google.com/nullset/BTTFDelorean?authkey=Gv1sRgCJClrdeJ6fnJfw#56383147 94953470498 and the next few)
- Clip and zip tie fuel lines to the frame
- Install clamp on the fuel boot
- Pressure test fuel system
- Refit transmission drain pan and fill ATF and final drive oil
- Possibly repair some of the wires coming out of the automatic transmission. A few appear to have been damaged
- Replace water ('test fluid') with 50/50 water and ethylene glycol
- Rebleed coolant system
- Refit starter
- Compression test
- Leak down test
- Install flywheel inspection plate
- Tighten bolts holding down the radiator and/or reinstall the reinforcement brackets / front suspension
- Install front brake calipers
- Reconnect body/frame
- Connect everything related to that
- Connect all the brake lines, install pads, and fill/bleed brake fluid
- ???
- PROFIT!

--buddy

sean
08-08-2011, 08:15 AM
Yeah, those injectors are pretty funky!



- Figure out what this thing is and whether I need to do something to replace it ( https://picasaweb.google.com/nullset/BTTFDelorean?authkey=Gv1sRgCJClrdeJ6fnJfw#56383147 94953470498 and the next few)
#28
3352
3351
http://www.delorean.com/store/p-7780-check-valve.aspx

BTW, this should be your new avatar:
3353

nullset
08-08-2011, 07:54 PM
Successful fuel system pressure test! I am a happy camper!

Now on to installing the exhaust…...

nullset
08-08-2011, 11:28 PM
What started as a great evening (fuel system pressure test) got annoying REALLY fast.

I installed all the exhaust studs on one side, after slowly figuring out where they were supposed to go…. (oops, i had the manifold for the other side!), I tightened all the nuts down gently.

Then, after I'd torqued all but the last 2, one of them failed to tighten far beyond finger tight. Now it seems that that hole is stripped.

Unfortunately, the one that stripped is RIGHT next to the cross member, and I can't see a way to get a drill in there to install a helicoil. Is it possible?

I decided to try lifting the engine out. While I was setting that up, a fire extinguisher (see above, fuel system pressure test) tipped over and got lodged, and completely discharged.

Someone had removed the safety pin and not replaced it. Now I'm REALLY frustrated.

Do I need to pull the engine to install that helicoil? If I do, I'm guessing I should go ahead and install both exhaust manifolds while it's still out.

Today I learned: Fire Extinguishers have safety pins FOR A REASON. Now all my tools and a good chunk of the car are covered in fire extinguisher powder.

--buddy

sean
08-09-2011, 08:09 AM
Unfortunately, the one that stripped is RIGHT next to the cross member, and I can't see a way to get a drill in there to install a helicoil. Is it possible?
Right angle drill would get at it but keeping it straight would be the kicker. You might be in for an engine lift.

... and a good chunk of the car are covered in fire extinguisher powder.

Let the cocaine jokes fly!

Dangermouse
08-09-2011, 08:15 AM
Pictures! Pictures ! :sad30:

ramblinmike
08-09-2011, 08:20 AM
Aren't there 2 unused threaded holes around each exhaust port? Couldn't you use one of these 'extra' holes rather than pull the engine?

sean
08-09-2011, 08:23 AM
Aren't there 2 unused threaded holes around each exhaust port? Couldn't you use one of these 'extra' holes rather than pull the engine?

Yes but there are not two more holes to use on the manifold. Stock manifolds only have two holes per port.

nullset
08-09-2011, 11:18 AM
Right angle drill would get at it but keeping it straight would be the kicker. You might be in for an engine lift.


Let the cocaine jokes fly!

I tried the right angle drill. Unless I cut down the drill bit, it's not going to happen.

I will pull the engine. Fortunately, the fuel lines aren't clipped in yet, so I can pull the engine up high enough without disconnecting anything. I'll install all of the exhaust while it's out.

--buddy

sean
08-09-2011, 11:34 AM
I tried the right angle drill. Unless I cut down the drill bit, it's not going to happen.

I will pull the engine. Fortunately, the fuel lines aren't clipped in yet, so I can pull the engine up high enough without disconnecting anything. I'll install all of the exhaust while it's out.

--buddy

Install the manifolds, crossover and cat, the muffler can wait til the engine is resting in the cradle again.

nullset
08-10-2011, 02:43 AM
Manifolds are now reinstalled. DMC's guide says 25 ft lbs of torque. That seems a little high to me. Is it right?

Either way, I installed a few more helicoils. When disassembling, I was happy that the exhaust studs practically fell out…now I know why! The threads were destroyed!

I did a compression test tonight. Low of 100, high of 145 or so, with most of them being around 120. This is probably not a completely great test as the engine hasn't been fired in who knows how long, etc.

How does that sound? Sean?

It was exciting to see the engine turn, even for a bit.

I think I'm up to 5 v-coils so far. Maybe six. I lost count. I'm hoping the exhaust is not going to leak.

It wasn't too bad to pull the engine, since almost nothing is connected, and the fuel lines aren't yet clipped to the frame. The cat is still attached to the muffler, so I didn't put it on yet. The engine is back in the frame again now.

--buddy

sean
08-10-2011, 12:46 PM
Manifolds are now reinstalled. DMC's guide says 25 ft lbs of torque. That seems a little high to me. Is it right?

Honestly I've never torqued them, always went on feel, hand tight.



I did a compression test tonight. Low of 100, high of 145 or so, with most of them being around 120. This is probably not a completely great test as the engine hasn't been fired in who knows how long, etc.

How does that sound? Sean?

Well that's so-so but considering the engine has been dormant for a while it will probably improve. You have no major failures so I think you're good

nullset
08-10-2011, 12:51 PM
Honestly I've never torqued them, always went on feel, hand tight.


Well that's so-so but considering the engine has been dormant for a while it will probably improve. You have no major failures so I think you're good

I really am tempted to try to run enough wires to fire the engine while it's still separated, but I think it won't be worth the effort.

I'm going to do all the plumbing I can today, clean up the fire extinguisher mess, then I'll be ready to put the body/frame back together.

--buddy

sean
08-10-2011, 10:19 PM
I was just thinking about 2930. Do you have all the body bolts accounted for?

sdg3205
08-10-2011, 10:33 PM
Hey Buddy,

25 lbs for the 4 bolts to the block seems too high. I could be wrong but I'd double check with a vendor. 7 lbs or 11 lbs might be correct. I stripped one of mine, it's easy to do. I had a torque wrench fail.

nullset
08-12-2011, 02:12 AM
I am fairly certain I have all the body bolts. They are all inside the car and have not been moved since then.

Today I learned: That I should've installed the auto transmission cooler hoses BEFORE bolting it back in….. I'll roll the hoist over tomorrow and drop it back down enough that I can install those. I need to get new sealing washers for the connectors that go between the transmission and the hoses.

I also learned that I should've done all my spark plug and distributor wiring BEFORE reinstalling the mixture unit. Oh well. I got it all wired and I am pretty sure it's right….if not, I found a way to do it without completely removing that piece.

I spent a good chunk of the night spraying my parts off with a blow gun to remove fire extinguisher powder. I also cleaned up the floor space around the car. Now tomorrow the floor will get a thorough cleaning, then I'll sort my tools and get back to work.

I also got most of the wiring reinstalled.

Todo list:
- Plumbing and clipping various metal lines to the frame
- Drop transmission, install cooler hoses, put it back, bolt it and the engine back in
- Finish the wiring
- Reconnect the shifter cable?
- Reinstall the alternator
- Double check the transmission drain pan and make sure it's not leaking
- Repaint the front reinforcement brackets. When I was "depowdering" them, the paint started flying off and showing rust underneath
- Reconnect body and frame
- Reinstall throttle spool
- Run new throttle cable (old one was borrowed for 2072)
- Install muffler/cat
- Connect driveshaft to transmission
- Fail to start the engine, call Sean
- Watch Sean make fun of me for forgetting to run any of the vacuum lines
- Watch Sean make fun of me for not marking the distributor before removing it, while we re-do the timing
- Scream at Sean that it's not funny. Walk away in disgust
- Drink some cheerwine
- Install a carberator
- Get some sleep. It's 2am, in case you're wondering why this post got weird so quickly. Also, I've been breathing fire extinguisher dust. I'm sure that's not great….

Look at the shiny colors! Time to leave freeside, take a shower, and sleep. Goodnight world!

--buddy

sean
08-12-2011, 06:30 AM
- Watch Sean make fun of me....
- Watch Sean make fun of me.….

No, I don't make fun, but I have said "wish you would have called me" a lot since before you started the project. Anyway, it looks like you're making some wicked progress and I'm sure you're learning a crapload long the way. I do have one concern now after reading your todo list, when you removed the engine/transmission, did you remove the cable running from the nose of the transmission towards the shifter or at least take it off the bracket it mounts to on the frame?

nullset
08-12-2011, 09:59 AM
No, I don't make fun, but I have said "wish you would have called me" a lot since before you started the project. Anyway, it looks like you're making some wicked progress and I'm sure you're learning a crapload long the way. I do have one concern now after reading your todo list, when you removed the engine/transmission, did you remove the cable running from the nose of the transmission towards the shifter or at least take it off the bracket it mounts to on the frame?

You've never made fun of me. That was just 2am sillyness. :)

The cable running to the transmission is still attached to the transmission but loose on the other end.

--buddy

sean
08-12-2011, 10:12 AM
The cable running to the transmission is still attached to the transmission but loose on the other end.

Ok, do you recall removing #39 & #40 from this diagram:
http://www.delorean.com/store/c-294-4-6-0-auto-shift-linkage.aspx


I dont remember doing this during the separation and just wanted to make sure you did.

nullset
08-12-2011, 10:22 AM
Ok, do you recall removing #39 & #40 from this diagram:
http://www.delorean.com/store/c-294-4-6-0-auto-shift-linkage.aspx


I dont remember doing this during the separation and just wanted to make sure you did.

AHA! I've got those pieces and I've been wondering where they go! They are safe and sound.

:)

--buddy

sean
08-12-2011, 10:24 AM
AHA! I've got those pieces and I've been wondering where they go! They are safe and sound.

Excellent! I was worried that it may have been over looked and the cable was ripped out of the mount when you pulled the engine/transmission.

nullset
08-13-2011, 11:06 PM
I've been pretty careful not to damage anything :)

Today I installed a helicoil in the transmission drain pan bolts, and bolted it back together. Then I installed the transmission oil cooler lines and tightened those down.

Oh, I got the fuel lines clipped down, finally.

Todo, before I can merge the body and frame:
- plumbing coolant, A/C, and brake lines
- Take some photos
- Reinstall muffler/cat.
- REASSEMBLE!

At that point, all that's left:
- install the alternator/compressor
- run the vacuum lines in the engine bay. I think this'll be easiest once the body is back on…..
- reconnect all the brake lines and master cylinder, etc
- refill auto transmission fluid

Wow, I'm almost done! My goal is to have the engine running by the end of this week.

I may be putting the body/frame back together tomorrow. Anyone that wants to come by freeside, let me know!

--buddy

sean
08-13-2011, 11:14 PM
This is awesome buddy! When you do the next set of pictures please get a pic of your new $20 fuel line. As for vacuum lines, if the intake manifold is on I hope most of your vacuum lines are installed already since 3 of them run under there.

nullset
08-13-2011, 11:18 PM
This is awesome buddy! When you do the next set of pictures please get a pic of your new $20 fuel line. As for vacuum lines, if the intake manifold is on I hope most of your vacuum lines are installed already since 3 of them run under there.

I connected three nice long pieces of vacuum line to those barbs, and labeled where they went under the manifold…. :)

--buddy

sean
08-13-2011, 11:23 PM
I connected three nice long pieces of vacuum line to those barbs, and labeled where they went under the manifold…. :)

--buddy

Hey hey! That's Buddy acting like a seasoned mechanic right there! :D

nullset
08-14-2011, 05:50 PM
Okay, all of the plumbing and clipping are now done. I think I'm ready to put the body/frame back together!

Sean, what should I do/check before I do this? Do you have an 'off the top of your head' checklist?

Should I reinstall the shifter lever, or can I do that once the body is on? Anything else I should look out for?

--buddy

sean
08-14-2011, 06:40 PM
Okay, all of the plumbing and clipping are now done. I think I'm ready to put the body/frame back together!

Sean, what should I do/check before I do this? Do you have an 'off the top of your head' checklist?

Should I reinstall the shifter lever, or can I do that once the body is on? Anything else I should look out for?

--buddy

Obviously, make sure all of the frame mounted lines are in their proper place as you lower the car down, go SLOW and insect often. I would roll the car under the body then install the shift assembly, basically reverse what we did. This should give you a little more wiggle room. Also make sure you have any hanging hoses and lines coming off the body in their proper place, I.e. Don't sandwich the body down on the emc brake cable line against the frame.

nullset
08-14-2011, 07:18 PM
It looks like some of the auto transmission electrical lines have been melted through.

I inspected inside the wrapped harness and found some wires have been replaced / recrimped, and one that I had to separate from another it had melted into.

Now I've got two pieces of wire I need to reconnect, and I'm having trouble with it! The wire seems like cloth/string. It won't take solder at all, and I'm having trouble getting it into a crimp type connector because it's so soft. Any ideas? What the hell kind of wire is this?

--buddy

sean
08-14-2011, 07:31 PM
It looks like some of the auto transmission electrical lines have been melted through.

I inspected inside the wrapped harness and found some wires have been replaced / recrimped, and one that I had to separate from another it had melted into.

Now I've got two pieces of wire I need to reconnect, and I'm having trouble with it! The wire seems like cloth/string. It won't take solder at all, and I'm having trouble getting it into a crimp type connector because it's so soft. Any ideas? What the hell kind of wire is this?

--buddy
Sounds like you are dealing with the governor harness. It also sounds like you are trying to crimp/solder the insulation cord, it's more there for for support. Pics?

nullset
08-14-2011, 07:38 PM
Sounds like you are dealing with the governor harness. It also sounds like you are trying to crimp/solder the insulation cord, it's more there for for support. Pics?

Ah, that makes sense. So it is not actually a wire?

It's a brownish colored "wire". I thought it was a normal wire because it's inside a jacket, like a normal piece of copper wire would be.I was trying to replace the crimp that was there that seemed to have come off. I managed to make a decent physical connection and wrapped it back up. If it doesn't work, I'll just pull it again. It does seem different than the rest of the wires.

What should I wrap this wiring harness in? It seems to have touched the exhaust at some point. That's my guess as to how it got so messy/burned looking. Right now it's got a double thick layer of electrical tape on it, but I'm sure I should add something else to it just to be safe.


--buddy

sean
08-14-2011, 07:52 PM
Does this resource help (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?350-Automatic-Transmission-Governor)?

When all is mended, a few layers of electric tape will get the job done, heat shrink wrap would be even better. Just got to make sure you mount it up and off the crossover pipe like the PO neglected to do.

nullset
08-14-2011, 09:01 PM
New goal!

If I can get some helpers, I'll merge the body and frame tomorrow night. I'm not Sean, or I'd just do it myself, with only one jack and a lot of running around…. :)

Tonight I'm going to focus on finishing all the engine bay work - install the alternator, vacuum lines, and button everything down. I'll then reconnect all the coolant lines, and do one more coolant and fuel system pressure test before signing off on it and putting the damn thing back together.

If that checks out okay, I'll roll it under and install the shifter lever.

Oh, I also need to refill the automatic transmission fluid, and drain/refill the engine oil. Some of the engine oil spilled out the last time it was pulled (since the dipstick is missing….), and since the dipstick is missing, I'm not sure how much. I'm going to drain it into a clean container, then measure and refill to 7 quarts.

Progress!

--buddy

sean
08-14-2011, 09:08 PM
What's you're eta on the dipstick? I only ask b/c installing it would be a lot easier now before you get the body back on. Did you test your spray pattern in the injectors yet?

nullset
08-14-2011, 09:10 PM
What's you're eta on the dipstick? I only ask b/c installing it would be a lot easier now before you get the body back on. Did you test your spray pattern in the injectors yet?

I'm not sure about the dipstick. I got one from an early 80s volvo 760, but it's not quite a direct fit. In the volvo, it mounts to the exhaust manifold and is a little different. I can't tell whether it will work or not.

I didn't test the spray pattern, but I did install the new injectors. Would it be worth popping them out and testing it while I'm pressure testing the fuel system?

--buddy

sean
08-14-2011, 09:14 PM
I didn't test the spray pattern, but I did install the new injectors. Would it be worth popping them out and testing it while I'm pressure testing the fuel system?

--buddy

Well if you have time to kill between now and putting the body back down, yeah test them.

nullset
08-14-2011, 09:31 PM
What goes in the metal clip seen in this picture? (Passenger side rear, clipped to the frame)

3619

The rubber from the brake line seems too large for that clip. Does the metal part go there? Something else?

Thanks,

--buddy

sean
08-14-2011, 10:30 PM
IIRC the battery cable clips into that. Check the cables coming off the battery.

nullset
08-15-2011, 09:39 PM
What fluids go in the transmission where? It's a tad confusing. I count four plugs total.

I believe the ATF fluid goes in through the dipstick, per the manual. There's a drain plug for that on the drain pan, so I know where that goes.

On both the driver and passenger sides, there's another magnetic plug. On the bottom, there's a final drive drain plug.

Does the final drive fluid go in through one or both of those holes? Is one preferable?

(One is next to the cooler lines, the other is on the driver side near the torque converter)

--buddy

sean
08-15-2011, 09:49 PM
ATF goes in the dip stick. The gear oil goes in the fill plug on the drivers side, G:05:01 of the workshop manual has an illustration and instruction.

TTait
08-16-2011, 01:47 AM
Always make sure you can open the fill plug before you open the drain plug...

nullset
08-16-2011, 02:25 AM
Thanks Sean.

@TTait, thanks for the advice as well. I did that a while ago, while the transmission was sitting on a bench.

What is the plug on the torque converter, next to the cooler lines for?

nullset
08-16-2011, 02:27 AM
Oh, I should probably mention that the body and frame are merged now!

Tips for those doing this in the future: some M10x100 or longer bolts dropped in the holes in the trunk can help you line things up perfectly. Don't forget that the jacks will shift as you lower the car, so pull outwards on the jacks GENTLY as it comes down and keep it lined up. You can even thread the M10 bolts in a little bit to sort of lock things down and then shift the frame around until everything else lines up. It's much easier if the frame is also on floor jacks, so you can slide it around as necessary.

Oh, and watch out for the steering linkage. Make sure it doesn't get caught up somewhere it shouldn't (no damage, I just saw it about to happen….)

--buddy

sean
08-16-2011, 07:39 AM
3781

sean
08-16-2011, 09:43 AM
Also, pic or it didnt happen. :dunno:

nullset
08-16-2011, 10:11 AM
I have a few, but the photographer fell asleep, so I don't have the final pictures yet…. :)

I'm sure I forgot something and will have to raise it up again at some point, just hopefully not all the way….

--buddy

sean
08-17-2011, 07:28 PM
So where we at? Been waiting for an update.:approve:

nullset
08-17-2011, 11:17 PM
Shifter reinstalled
Frame bolts are all in
I found that the AT gasket has a tear in it and there's a slow drip. I'll order a new one…
New Saturn alternator installed and wired
I still need to install the ballast resistor and support/etc and the A/T wires/etc
Vacuum lines are all run. I probably should snip them to length at some point.

All that's left before I can start it are:
- actually screw in the shifter (it's sitting loose in the body right now, but the rest of it is all attached)
- double check all the coolant lines and clamps
- make sure all the wiring is done
- fill and pressure test coolant and fuel one last time
- connect front wiring harness
- drain, measure, and refill oil.

I think after that I'm ready to try starting it….

Sean, are you available sometime this weekend? I'd really like to have an expert there when I try to start it up, in case something bad happens.

--buddy

sean
08-18-2011, 07:34 AM
pretty backed up this weekend, waterpark followed up with a honey-do list. Right now the following two weekends have potential though. You can always call, I may be in a tube floating but ill answer for you buddy :thumbup:

QuadcityDMC
08-18-2011, 08:51 PM
I'll be down at DragonCon, you think it will be up and running? There was a Delorean last year but didn't get a chance to look at it.

nullset
08-18-2011, 09:48 PM
That was me!

She'll be ready. She may not be pretty, but barring some major unforeseen disaster, she'll be there!

--buddy

nullset
08-18-2011, 11:04 PM
She's almost ready to start, with a few exceptions:

- The catalytic converter gasket is rusted away and I somehow forgot to order a new one
- The catalytic converter to muffler interface is stupidly hard to access. I can't seem to find a good way to tighten it down!
- The engine bay is SUPER messy. If I manage to crank it, i'm only going to run it for a few seconds, for fear of something committing suicide.
- I'm not sure of the alternator wiring. I have a saturn alternator. The pigtail I have on 2072 is different from the one I have for this car (which came from an eagle premier). I'm not sure which line is used to activate the alternator. I'll play with it once the engine has started, carefully. I'm pretty sure I know what to do :)

Is it unadvisable to try to run the engine with the exhaust disconnected or barely connected at the input to the catalytic converter?

Would it be easier to remove the crossover pipe, then bolt the catalytic converter / muffler onto it, then put it back down?

Any other advice before I try starting it?

Oh, and is that gasket a standard part I can get locally, or something special? Is there a crossover part # somewhere?

--buddy

nullset
08-19-2011, 01:32 AM
Update for tonight!

The electrical is done-ish. The 'ish' means I need to remove the wood and vacuum out more rats nests. I'm thinking about buying Hervey's relay update kit, but I may wait until I can see what kind of shape everything is in.

As of right now, I connected the battery, saw some smoke, disconnected the battery, taped up some wires that no longer had any insulation, and tried again.

I can get power to the car, but I have no idea if the 'run' mode of the key is actually doing anything or not. I'd stay and check, but it's late.

Tomorrow I plan to test out whether, for example, the fuel pump gets power when I turn the key to 'on'. I'll check the RPM relay connections/etc and dig through the electrical.

I need to finish installing the shifter so it'll know that it is in park and I'll be able to attempt starting.

The engine bay is SUPER messy. Our "little cars" engine bays have more wiring than there should be room….it's like a tardis… [1]

I'll keep everyone updated. I will attempt to fire the engine tomorrow, with the super leaky exhaust and all, unless someone tells me THAT IS A REALLY STUPID IDEA DONT DO IT OR YOU'LL REGRET IT. If that's the case, please tell me!

The battery is now disconnected. I thought it'd be wise to not leave it connected when I'm not here…..

--buddy
--buddy

sean
08-19-2011, 06:32 AM
No need to remove the crossover pipe to get the muffler on the CAT. But if you are needing to install that square gasket you might wait. Getting the muffler on there just takes som patience and some juggling.

Running the car without the cat connected will be loud and smelly but not really dangerous unless you running super rich and raw fuel is making it's way to the exhaust.

I don't know of a crossref part but if you are talking about this guy I have one:
http://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/100929.JPG
http://www.delorean.com/store/p-6655-gasket.aspx

nullset
08-19-2011, 10:26 AM
No need to remove the crossover pipe to get the muffler on the CAT. But if you are needing to install that square gasket you might wait. Getting the muffler on there just takes som patience and some juggling.

Running the car without the cat connected will be loud and smelly but not really dangerous unless you running super rich and raw fuel is making it's way to the exhaust.

I don't know of a crossref part but if you are talking about this guy I have one:
http://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/100929.JPG
http://www.delorean.com/store/p-6655-gasket.aspx


Yeah, that would be it…..

I don't suppose you'll be visiting atlanta any time soon? :)

--buddy

sean
08-19-2011, 10:31 AM
Yeah, that would be it…..

I don't suppose you'll be visiting atlanta any time soon? :)

--buddy
Like I said, this weekend aint looking to good right now, Saturday is way out but a very slim possibility on Sunday availability. Next weekend is unscheduled right now so if you find yourself in a real jam I could possibly be persuaded. You can always procure yourself a Sherpa and trek up the craggy terrain to pick it up this evening, or tomorrow evening.

nullset
08-19-2011, 10:41 AM
Like I said, this weekend aint looking to good right now, Saturday is way out but a very slim possibility on Sunday availability. Next weekend is unscheduled right now so if you find yourself in a real jam I could possibly be persuaded. You can always procure yourself a Sherpa and trek up the craggy terrain to pick it up this evening, or tomorrow evening.

I may be able to drop by tomorrow evening if you're free. We'll see. I'll have to find my passport….

I'll see how far I get today and tomorrow. Ideally, I'd like to be able to at least try starting the engine,even if it doesn't crank.

I might remove the wood behind where the seats should be to clean that area. There's at least one non-wiring-related rat's nest in the electrical bay.

I need to clean that up before I continue…..

--buddy

nullset
08-19-2011, 10:41 AM
I don't suppose that you have any sway bar bushings to spare?

--buddy

sean
08-19-2011, 10:45 AM
I have used bushing but not new.

nullset
08-19-2011, 08:32 PM
- The RPM relay is bad. I jumpered it.
- The electrical stuff, otherwise, might be okay.

There's a fray in the ignition wire that goes to the coil that worries me.

Either way, she'll turn over now from the key but she won't fire. Where should I start in diagnosing that?

Things I'm not sure about:
- Spark
- Distributor installed and/or wired correctly
- Timing

So, if you were to list a step 1 2 3, where should I start?

--buddy

sean
08-19-2011, 08:36 PM
Keep it simple, pull a plug and see if you get spark and take it from there. You removed the mixture unit and replaced the injectors, you may need to adjust the fuel mix to make sure you are spraying properly. I had suggest pulling the injectors to you earlier to test spray but I don't know if you did it. So really right now you don't if you have food fuel or spark.

nullset
08-19-2011, 08:47 PM
Keep it simple, pull a plug and see if you get spark and take it from there. You removed the mixture unit and replaced the injectors, you may need to adjust the fuel mix to make sure you are spraying properly. I had suggest pulling the injectors to you earlier to test spray but I don't know if you did it. So really right now you don't if you have food fuel or spark.

I'll do that.

What's the easiest way to rig it so I can attempt to start it from the engine bay?

--buddy

sean
08-19-2011, 08:52 PM
I'll do that.

What's the easiest way to rig it so I can attempt to start it from the engine bay?

--buddy

I know DMCMW Dave wrote about a rig he would use but I've never needed one, always had a partner to turn the key, so I never paid any mind to it. I'd PM him about it.

nullset
08-19-2011, 09:05 PM
Okay, I have a few questions/etc.

One - I have a green and black with orange striped wire that I can't figure out where it goes.
Two - There's an electrical connector at the back of the distributor. I can't find what it connects to either.
Three - if I turn the key to Acc, and jumper the fuel pump, I should get fuel spraying from all the injectors? I pulled one and did that, and got nothing.

--buddy

sean
08-19-2011, 09:12 PM
Okay, I have a few questions/etc.

One - I have a green and black with orange striped wire that I can't figure out where it goes.
Two - There's an electrical connector at the back of the distributor. I can't find what it connects to either.
Three - if I turn the key to Acc, and jumper the fuel pump, I should get fuel spraying from all the injectors? I pulled one and did that, and got nothing.

--buddy

One: need a pic
Two: if you are talking about this,#13 (http://www.delorean.com/store/c-279-3-4-0-distributor.aspx), it runs towards the firewall and and connects to it's mate that pokes out the rubber grommet
http://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/large/102688.JPG

Three: bypassing the RPM relay, regardless of key position, will power the pump and should pressurize the system. Fuel should not come out of the injectors until you press down on the pressure plate of the mixture unit.

nullset
08-19-2011, 09:14 PM
Okay, I have a few questions/etc.
Three - if I turn the key to Acc, and jumper the fuel pump, I should get fuel spraying from all the injectors? I pulled one and did that, and got nothing.

--buddy

When I do this, I don't get any fuel from any of the injectors. I can hear the fuel pump running, and the pressure plate does provide resistance, though.

--buddy

nullset
08-19-2011, 09:34 PM
One: need a pic
Two: if you are talking about this,#13 (http://www.delorean.com/store/c-279-3-4-0-distributor.aspx), it runs towards the firewall and and connects to it's mate that pokes out the rubber grommet
http://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/large/102688.JPG

Three: bypassing the RPM relay, regardless of key position, will power the pump and should pressurize the system. Fuel should not come out of the injectors until you press down on the pressure plate of the mixture unit.

It's not that. It's coming off the back of the mixture unit. It has a short piece of red heat shrink on it, I think, and one spade connector.

--buddy

sean
08-19-2011, 09:43 PM
It's not that. It's coming off the back of the mixture unit. It has a short piece of red heat shrink on it, I think, and one spade connector.

--buddy

Oh that guy, he connects to a lone black wire coming off the harness and grounds to the intake manifold in the passengers side. It should go like this: loop opted to intake, black plastic connector to a black wire that runs to the harness, all on/near passengers side manifold.

nullset
08-19-2011, 09:44 PM
Okay. Would that wire not being there prevent fuel from coming out of the mixture unit?

If that test fails, what's the next thing to check?

--buddy

sean
08-19-2011, 09:47 PM
Okay. Would that wire not being there prevent fuel from coming out of the mixture unit?

If that test fails, what's the next thing to check?

--buddy

That wire has no bearing on fuel to the injector. Did you pressurize the fuel system and push the plate down while the pump is running?

nullset
08-19-2011, 09:52 PM
That wire has no bearing on fuel to the injector. Did you pressurize the fuel system and push the plate down while the pump is running?

Yes. The pressure plate provides resistance, but there's no spray out the injectors at all.

--buddy

sean
08-19-2011, 09:57 PM
Ok so with the pump pumping and you pushing down on the plate, push all the way down, you get no fuel from the injectors? Next step to me is to loosen the supply line coming to the distributor to make sure you have fuel or remove an injector from the line and press down on the plate and see if fuel come out of the line. Try both if one does not produce fuel.

nullset
08-19-2011, 10:06 PM
Ok so with the pump pumping and you pushing down on the plate, push all the way down, you get no fuel from the injectors? Next step to me is to loosen the supply line coming to the distributor to make sure you have fuel or remove an injector from the line and press down on the plate and see if fuel come out of the line. Try both if one does not produce fuel.

Correct. I did make sure that the line going in to the fuel distributor has fuel in it.

I loosened one of the injector lines and I hear a hissing noise when I push down on the pressure plate, like air is escaping. It's a very soft hiss.

--buddy

sean
08-19-2011, 10:14 PM
Hmmm, did you have the distributor off the mixture unit at all? It is sounding like a gummed up fuel distributor or fuel pressure issue. Do you still have access to the fuel pump area? If so, pull the return line before it connects to the return pipe in the boot and see what the return fuel pressure looks like. If you are sure you got good fuel at the supply line then the issue resides somewhere at the distributor. Do you have a fuel pressure tester?

nullset
08-19-2011, 10:31 PM
Hmmm, did you have the distributor off the mixture unit at all? It is sounding like a gummed up fuel distributor or fuel pressure issue. Do you still have access to the fuel pump area? If so, pull the return line before it connects to the return pipe in the boot and see what the return fuel pressure looks like. If you are sure you got good fuel at the supply line then the issue resides somewhere at the distributor. Do you have a fuel pressure tester?

Do I need to bleed the air out of the fuel distributor or mixture unit?

I'll check the return pressure. I don't think I have a fuel pressure tester. I wonder if I can rent one from auto zone….

--buddy

sean
08-19-2011, 10:39 PM
Do I need to bleed the air out of the fuel distributor or mixture unit?


No

Not sure on the rental of the fuel pressure tester, it's a possibility.

nullset
08-19-2011, 10:56 PM
I disconnected the return line from the fuel distributor while the pump was running (SLOWLY disconnected) and there was almost no pressure or fuel spray.

Does this mean a distributor rebuild?

Should I attempt it myself, if so?

--buddy

sean
08-19-2011, 11:00 PM
Does this mean a distributor rebuild?

Should I attempt it myself, if so?

--buddy
No and no.

I hate to beat this to death but remove the supply line to the distributor and see what kind of flow you get, should be pretty good. The the large hose coming up from the filter to the back of the FD.

nullset
08-19-2011, 11:14 PM
No and no.

I hate to beat this to death but remove the supply line to the distributor and see what kind of flow you get, should be pretty good. The the large hose coming up from the filter to the back of the FD.

I'm a dummy. I'd put gas in the tank, but apparently not enough. When I pulled the supply line, it was mostly pumping air.

Dumped more gas in, and now the injectors are spraying properly.

--buddy

sean
08-19-2011, 11:17 PM
I'm a dummy. I'd put gas in the tank, but apparently not enough. When I pulled the supply line, it was mostly pumping air.

:shameful: ......... Well I'm turnin in, I'll look for an update around 6:00am :sleep:.

nullset
08-19-2011, 11:23 PM
:shameful: ......... Well I'm turnin in, I'll look for an update around 6:00am :sleep:.

But the engine still won't start! ;)

It still sounds about like it did before. I'll be investigating spark next.

--buddy

nullset
08-20-2011, 12:31 AM
Here are some more pictures of the mystery wires.

I'm not sure where these guys go.
4227422842294230

--buddy

sean
08-20-2011, 06:47 AM
That first one with the red band on it has mate coming off the harness, lone black wire with a plastic connector on it. The other set (orange/back & green) run to the otterstat, the orange/black is missing it's fmal connector.

nullset
08-20-2011, 02:30 PM
I drained the oil today to see how much I'd lost due to the lack of a dipstick last time I pulled the engine.

When the oil drained, it smelled VERY strongly of gas. This has me concerned.

Is that something that can happen due to the fact that I'm trying to start the engine, and it hasn't fired?

How can I keep it from happening again?

Today I'm going to refill the oil and check for spark.

One more question..there are two marks on the crankshaft. One is TDC for cylinder 1, and the other is TDC for cylinder 6. How do you tell which is which? I'm completely not sure that my distributor is timed correctly. Should I pull the manifold again and thoroughly find TDC for cylinder 1? What's the proper method?

Is there any way to remove / reinstall the distributor and wires without removing the manifold and/or mixture unit?

--buddy

Rich
08-20-2011, 03:17 PM
I drained the oil today....

When the oil drained, it smelled VERY strongly of gas. This has me concerned.

Is that something that can happen due to the fact that I'm trying to start the engine, and it hasn't fired?


I wouldn't worry about it for the long term. Yes, if your non-start efforts go on long enough with the injectors working then some of the fuel will condense in the cylinders and find its way into the lube system past the rings but most of it will be pushed out the exhaust ports while cranking. It shouldn't be enough fuel to dilute the oil to the extent of engine damage.

Some level of gas bypass to the crankcase is normal, which is why there is a PCV system on the motor.

The good news out of this is that you know you don't have a problem with fuel delivery so you are headed toward the ignition system.

Your exhaust pipes should be venting lots of fuel odors as well during the cranking episodes until this puppy fires up.

nullset
08-20-2011, 05:09 PM
Alright, the fuel mixture is now set.

http://cisflowtech.ity.co.uk/m/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=28&Itemid=32

This site is useful…..

I now move on to electrical.

- The RPM relay isn't priming the pump. I know it's good because I've tried both relays in both cars, and they both work when in my driver…..
- The ballast resistor voltage is ~.68 volts. I take it this is not normal.

All of the fuses have been checked and are good, but I can recheck them. What else should I check?

I should also mention that I don't get any dash lights/etc. Headlights work, but they're wired through a separate switch, so I don't know if that indicates anything.

--buddy

--buddy

sean
08-20-2011, 05:26 PM
You know you have another DeLorean there next to you that you can be testing with.

nullset
08-20-2011, 05:36 PM
You know you have another DeLorean there next to you that you can be testing with.

Yeah, and it shows ~12V to the ballast resistor…. hence why I know .68 is wrong! :)

I'm reconnecting the otterstat wires now.

I can't find the electrical connector for the thermotime switch. I'm sure it's hididng somewhere. Can I run without it or do I need to dig until it appears?

--buddy

sean
08-20-2011, 05:52 PM
Yeah, and it shows ~12V to the ballast resistor…. hence why I know .68 is wrong! :)

I no longer make assumptions with you buddy :D


I can't find the electrical connector for the thermotime switch. I'm sure it's hididng somewhere. Can I run without it or do I need to dig until it appears?

--buddy

If you do try without he TTS connected then put the WUR plug on the CSV for the first few seconds of start but dont leave it connected or the CSV will continue to dump fuel past time it's suppose to.

nullset
08-20-2011, 06:03 PM
I no longer make assumptions with you buddy :D


Hey, we're BOTH learning! :)



If you do try without he TTS connected then put the WUR plug on the CSV for the first few seconds of start but dont leave it connected or the CSV will continue to dump fuel past time it's suppose to.

If things are still not happy once I get the ballast voltage right, I'll give this a try.

--buddy

QuadcityDMC
08-20-2011, 07:05 PM
Here are some more pictures of the mystery wires.

I'm not sure where these guys go.
4227422842294230

--buddy

This my not help you with the starting up and running problem, but I found that wiring and took a photo for you.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/319845_272713932755131_100000495801550_1179267_526 6796_n.jpg

Bitsyncmaster
08-20-2011, 07:58 PM
Pull the blue/yellow wire off the ignition resistor and see if that makes the white wire read 12 volts. If not, pull the white/yellow wire of the resistor and measure the voltage on the white wire.

nullset
08-21-2011, 01:32 PM
Would there be any danger in going from +12 (through a fuse) to the top of the ballast resistor, to power the coil?

That would save me, for now, from having to dig through the electrical bay. It still has to be done, but I'd like to at least try this if it's safe to do.

--buddy

Bitsyncmaster
08-21-2011, 02:24 PM
Would there be any danger in going from +12 (through a fuse) to the top of the ballast resistor, to power the coil?

That would save me, for now, from having to dig through the electrical bay. It still has to be done, but I'd like to at least try this if it's safe to do.

--buddy

That would be fine. Of course you would have to pull it off when you want to stop the engine.

nullset
08-21-2011, 03:38 PM
Good news everyone!

I removed and reseated all of the relays, and now I have voltage into the coil. I now know that I have compression, fuel, spark, and air.

She still won't fire, which means the timing is the most likely culprit. I'm going to pull the manifold and reset that.

I'm still not sure how to tell cylinder #1 TDC from cylinder #6. I read the manual referenced above, but it doesn't quite make sense to me. If someone feels like explaining, please do!

I can pull the valve covers. I have a new gasket for the driver side valve cover to install.

--buddy
PS: MAKING PROGRESS! HELL YEAH!

Bitsyncmaster
08-21-2011, 03:44 PM
If you have spark and fuel and think the distributor is wrong....just pull it and install it with the rotor 180 degrees. But you may as well verify the install just in case that does not get it running.

Have you tried some starting fluid yet?

nullset
08-21-2011, 04:00 PM
I suppose it's worth a try…let me see if I can find some.

--buddy

nullset
08-21-2011, 11:59 PM
Okay, I've pulled the manifold, reinstalled the distributor, and put everything back together.

The only non connected wires right now are the max throttle switches. Everything else is wired in, including vacuum/etc.

I hooked up a timing light. Do I want to see the notch at the '0' mark or the '20' mark? I've tried both ways, and she still won't fire.

I did get one backfire, but that's it. I know it has air and fuel. I can pop the injectors and push on the pressure plate and they'll squirt just fine.

What else can I try? Any tricks to starting a stubborn engine, swapping electrical plugs/etc?

--buddy

nullset
08-22-2011, 01:52 AM
Okay, I tested on my other car and the timing notch appears about 50 degrees counterclockwise from the 0 degrees TDC mark. Does this sound right?

I'm going home now. I'll try again tomorrow night.

--buddy

nullset
08-22-2011, 02:17 AM
VIDEO!

Okay, the embed isn't working.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mqWymBUjuY9g5pHaiCnouSqJS2GPNhx9V34Q_LoopJI?feat=d irectlink

sean
08-22-2011, 08:04 AM
some questions:
Are we 100% the spark plug wires are ordered properly?
Did you inspect and or replace the plugs and gap?
Did you try the plug swap on the CSV while starting?

nullset
08-22-2011, 10:13 AM
some questions:
Are we 100% the spark plug wires are ordered properly?
Did you inspect and or replace the plugs and gap?
Did you try the plug swap on the CSV while starting?

Assuming that the cylinder #s printed in the distributor cap correspond to the numbers according to the manual (#1 is passenger side towards the "front" of the engine/vehicle, #6 is driver side closest to me when I'm working on it), then yes the spark plug wires are all correct.

I ordered a new set of plug wires but no where I can find locally has them in stock. I could try voluparts today. They were closed over the weekend.

The plugs all look pretty good. I didn't check the gap.

I did try that, I believe. Plug the wire from the CPR into the CSV, right?

--buddy

sean
08-22-2011, 10:17 AM
I did try that, I believe. Plug the wire from the CPR into the CSV, right?

--buddy

Yes. When you had the cap off and lined up the rotor, did you make sure you seated it all the way down? There is a notch in the distributor so the rotor should only seat one way but you can put it in wrong(i.e. not seated all the way) and still put the cap back down. If it were me I would be checking for spark at each plug right now. Still a little concerned the timing is off.

nullset
08-22-2011, 10:26 AM
Yes. When you had the cap off and lined up the rotor, did you make sure you seated it all the way down? There is a notch in the distributor so the rotor should only seat one way but you can put it in wrong(i.e. not seated all the way) and still put the cap back down. If it were me I would be checking for spark at each plug right now. Still a little concerned the timing is off.

I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure it's seated correctly.

I'll pull all the plugs, check for spark, and re-do the compression test tonight.

When I use the timing gun, where should the notch appear? I can move it around pretty well. I had it at 0 degrees and it still sounded exactly the same.

sean
08-22-2011, 10:45 AM
When I use the timing gun, where should the notch appear? I can move it around pretty well. I had it at 0 degrees and it still sounded exactly the same.

Id recommend dabbing some white paint on the #1tdc notch so its easier to see when the gun flashes it should show up between 0 an 13. You should have lined up the notch with 13 on the bracket when setting your distributor.

nullset
08-22-2011, 10:49 AM
Id recommend dabbing some white paint on the #1tdc notch so its easier to see when the gun flashes it should show up between 0 an 13. You should have lined up the notch with 13 on the bracket when setting your distributor.

I thought I was supposed to line it up at zero….

I think I can get the notch to be between 0 and 13 though. Assuming it's the right notch……

(the second notch, as I'm turning the crankshaft clockwise, right? Where 1st and 2nd are close together)

sean
08-22-2011, 11:19 AM
I thought I was supposed to line it up at zero….


You are right, I was getting confused with the timing light. I pm'd you some things to try.

nullset
08-23-2011, 01:17 AM
SHE FIRES!

Then sputters for a few seconds and dies.

https://picasaweb.google.com/107098584421702331898/BTTFDelorean?authkey=Gv1sRgCJClrdeJ6fnJfw#56439155 74516801202

This makes me happy. I'm not sure what to do next. I'm going to get new plugs and wires, because I don't trust the ones that are there, and it won't hurt.

I really hate the location of the distributor!

There's a slight fuel leak at the filter that will be taken care of first thing tomorrow.

--buddy

sean
08-23-2011, 06:06 AM
Do you have the CSV plug swapped while starting?

nullset
08-23-2011, 10:23 AM
Do you have the CSV plug swapped while starting?

I've tried both ways.

Where should the timing mark appear while I'm trying to start? Should the vacuum advance be disconnected? (according to the tech wiki, timing is 13 degrees BTDC with vacuum advance off. Does that mean I should set it that way during starting, or closer to zero?)

--buddy

Bitsyncmaster
08-23-2011, 10:36 AM
I've tried both ways.

Where should the timing mark appear while I'm trying to start? Should the vacuum advance be disconnected? (according to the tech wiki, timing is 13 degrees BTDC with vacuum advance off. Does that mean I should set it that way during starting, or closer to zero?)

--buddy

With your timing light working, you should see the mark around 13 degrees at idle speed. You don't need to pull the advance hose off if your advance solenoid is working.

I do pull the advance hose off if you want to measure the mechanical advance amount. You can verify the correct amount of mechanical advance as you increase engine RPM.

You can also check the vacuum advance by pull the solenoid connector off at idle speed.

nullset
08-23-2011, 10:09 PM
With an assistant pushing down on the pressure plate, it'll run much longer. Does this mean anything?

It also now has a new set of plugs and wires.

I'm done with the engine until Saturday when Sean comes down (with a catalytic converter gasket…..)

I'm going to continue doing other things until then. I've got plenty of work to do!

--buddy

sean
08-23-2011, 10:13 PM
Might need to tweak the fuel a bit, make it richer. Right=rich, left=lean.


I'm done with the engine until Saturday when Sean comes down (with a catalytic converter gasket…..)

That still happening :eek7:

nullset
08-23-2011, 10:28 PM
Might need to tweak the fuel a bit, make it richer. Right=rich, left=lean.



That still happening :eek7:

I hope :)

--buddy

sean
08-23-2011, 10:31 PM
I hope :)

--buddy
;)

Shoot me a pm by Thursday with what needs to be done.

nullset
08-23-2011, 11:21 PM
WOOOOOOOOOO!

I made the mixture slightly more rich, and now she starts and runs!

She runs like crap, but she runs!

--buddy
PS: This means more scotch for me! I'm thinking Macallan tonight…last night (first fire) was the Lephraoig cask strength…YUM!

nullset
08-23-2011, 11:38 PM
Here's my current todo list:

- Finish installing the A/T transmission shifter (it's not totally installed….)
- Install the front brake calipers
- Bleed the brakes and install the brake lines
- Install the hand brake to the interior
- Double check all the vacuum connections, etc
- Adjust and/or fill the A/T fluid (once it's had a chance to fill the torque converter)
- Install the throttle spool and cable
- Finish wiring the Saturn alternator (I need to confirm which wire hooks up to green to energize the alternator)
- Reconnect steering rack
- Put rear vents back on
- Reinstall front stab bar
- Reinstall exhaust
- Drive it around and see what falls off
- Duct tape whatever fell off back on
- Done?

--buddy

nullset
08-24-2011, 10:07 PM
Is there a trick to installing the vacuum line that goes from the frame up into the body in the front?

I've spent WAY too much time trying to force the tube over the flared fitting and in. I've tried soaking the tube in boiling water, to no avail, and various means of stretching it. So far, it just seems like it doesn't want to go.

Am I missing something, or is it REALLY HARD to install?

--buddy

sean
08-24-2011, 10:23 PM
What size hose are you using for it?

nullset
08-24-2011, 10:29 PM
What size hose are you using for it?

The one that's already there…..

I remember your cutting the end off when we were doing the separation because it was being difficult. I'm not sure where the other end of it is, or I'd try replacing it with something more reasonable.

I can take some pictures if need be.

--buddy

sean
08-24-2011, 10:41 PM
The one that's already there…..


Might want to take that hose to the parts store and see if you can find some fresh, and more flexible, hose. The one you have there is pretty old and tough, but you know that.

nullset
08-25-2011, 01:06 AM
Here's my current todo list:
- Install the throttle spool and cable


Check!

Wow, what a PITA that was. I'd borrowed her throttle cable (inner and outer, since the inner was frayed enough at the end that I didn't think I'd be able to get it all the way through if I tried just removing it). Replacing that outer cable is a major pain in the ass. At least the seats were out so I could lay upside down under the dash…..

--buddy

Bitsyncmaster
08-25-2011, 05:24 AM
Is there a trick to installing the vacuum line that goes from the frame up into the body in the front?

I've spent WAY too much time trying to force the tube over the flared fitting and in. I've tried soaking the tube in boiling water, to no avail, and various means of stretching it. So far, it just seems like it doesn't want to go.

Am I missing something, or is it REALLY HARD to install?

--buddy

It was no problem with a silicone vacuum hose. Of course you won't find that size locally.

nullset
08-25-2011, 10:13 PM
Here's my current todo list:
- Install the throttle spool and cable
- Install the front brake calipers
- Bleed the brakes and install the brake lines


Done!

I'm going to spend the rest of tonight working on the interior bits, trying to get rid of the smell, and cleaning up my work area.

Tomorrow night I'm un-entombing her from the back of Freeside into the auto bay…this requires a VERY clear and clean path!

--buddy

nullset
08-26-2011, 02:33 AM
Okay, the rat ick is out of the interior!

She's back on her wheels, and I've rearranged stuff at Freeside so that I can get her to the second bay (which we call the loading dock, that somehow turned into junk storage).

Pics of the back side of Freeside:

https://picasaweb.google.com/107098584421702331898/FreesideLotsOfSpace#5645047031887349090

Sean, I found the catalytic converter gasket (still stuck to the exhaust!) but it's quite rusty and fragile looking. I'm going to assume that it'd still be best for me to wait for you to get here before putting the exhaust back on.

--buddy

sean
08-26-2011, 06:14 AM
Reuse of the gasket would probably lead to future leaks so it's up to you. If we are replacing it then go ahead and remove the old gasket and clan up the mating surfaces. Did you already free up hoses you said were pinched?

Dangermouse
08-26-2011, 09:40 AM
Done!

I'm going to spend the rest of tonight working on the interior bits, trying to get rid of the smell, and cleaning up my work area.

Tomorrow night I'm un-entombing her from the back of Freeside into the auto bay…this requires a VERY clear and clean path!

--buddy

awesome - great job.


Okay, the rat ick is out of the interior!

She's back on her wheels, and I've rearranged stuff at Freeside so that I can get her to the second bay (which we call the loading dock, that somehow turned into junk storage).

Pics of the back side of Freeside:

https://picasaweb.google.com/107098584421702331898/FreesideLotsOfSpace#5645047031887349090

Sean, I found the catalytic converter gasket (still stuck to the exhaust!) but it's quite rusty and fragile looking. I'm going to assume that it'd still be best for me to wait for you to get here before putting the exhaust back on.

--buddy

you've been busy spring kleening :) Looks nothing like the space we visited earlier this year

nullset
08-26-2011, 01:43 PM
Reuse of the gasket would probably lead to future leaks so it's up to you. If we are replacing it then go ahead and remove the old gasket and clan up the mating surfaces. Did you already free up hoses you said were pinched?

I am freeing up the hoses now. I wanted to finish the brakes first, and get it out to a bay. It's now freeeeeee!

I'm having trouble getting the transmission to go into neutral, I think. It's probably because I haven't bolted the shifter all the way down yet, though.

--buddy

nullset
08-26-2011, 03:58 PM
She's now next to a roll up door! yay!

I cleared those lines up as well. Now I need to bolt the body back together, and clean up the huge amount of oil/etc I left in my now vacant work area.

There's something going on that's making the shifter cable/etc unhappy. I can't get it into neutral (which would make pushing easier….) and now it won't start, probably because it doesn't think it's in park.

Back to work…..

sean
08-26-2011, 04:14 PM
did you reinstall 39 and 40?
http://www.delorean.com/store/images/CATEGORY/large/4-6-0.gif
4514

nullset
08-26-2011, 04:20 PM
did you reinstall 39 and 40?
http://www.delorean.com/store/images/CATEGORY/large/4-6-0.gif
4514

I installed one of each, near the transmission. I think there's supposed to be another one, but I couldn't figure out where it goes…..

--buddy

sean
08-26-2011, 04:26 PM
I installed one of each, near the transmission. I think there's supposed to be another one, but I couldn't figure out where it goes…..

--buddy

You got me confused now. This guy holds the shift cable, along with #39, to the frame. You did this correct?

nullset
08-26-2011, 04:36 PM
You got me confused now. This guy holds the shift cable, along with #39, to the frame. You did this correct?

Yes.

I think I have 2 of #40, and https://www.delorean.com/store/c-294-4-6-0-auto-shift-linkage.aspx lists two of them. I'm not sure where the second one goes, or if that's a mistake and my other block of plastic goes somewhere else.

--buddy

sean
08-26-2011, 04:39 PM
well get your shifter bolted down and see how it shifts then. you didnt remove the pivot bolt at all did ya?

nullset
08-26-2011, 04:52 PM
well get your shifter bolted down and see how it shifts then. you didnt remove the pivot bolt at all did ya?

No I didn't.

--buddy

Farrar
08-26-2011, 05:01 PM
What's the easiest way to rig it so I can attempt to start it from the engine bay?

Find the two red/white wires that connect to the starter solenoid. Splice into one of them (I don't think it matters which) with a wire long enough to reach the positive post. Now when the key is in position 1 you can trigger the starter solenoid by touching the wire to the positive post.

FWIW, I keep the wire rolled up under the coil cover when it's not in use; I don't want it touching any live wires by accident!

Farrar

nullset
08-28-2011, 03:18 PM
It seems I forgot to install the heat shield when I put the body back on. Is it safe to run without the heat shield that runs between the body and the transmission/exhaust?

Is there something I could put there that is a bit more flexible? (ie, something I could install without dropping the transmission or removing the body).

Is there some magical angle that will allow me to reinstall it?

--buddy

nullset
08-28-2011, 03:37 PM
progress is my middle name!

Thanks to Sean coming down yesterday, she now starts right up and purrs like a kitten.

I'm having trouble getting the transmission shifter to be happy. If I move the shifter to any gear, nothing happens.

Any ideas? I really hope I don't have to install a new shifter cable. The sheath is broken but the cable inside the sheath seems okay.

--buddy

nullset
08-29-2011, 08:56 PM
Update:

- Waiting on a new transmission shifter cable. Should be here tomorrow at 10am.
- Bumper is back on, but I couldn't get it to fit properly with the impact absorber, so for the purposes of the parade ONLY, I'm going to put it on without that. It'll go back on very soon after the parade and before I drive the car in traffic

nullset
08-29-2011, 08:58 PM
I did not straighten the wheels and steering wheel when I was merging the body and the frame.

I haven't bolted the steering back together yet, but the steering column is over the rack and can turn the wheels, but it's not centered properly.

How do I back that off so that I can get the wheel lined up? Would it be easier to remove the wheel and straighten it there? I'll go with whichever method is easiest and least time consuming.

Thanks!

--buddy

sean
08-29-2011, 09:11 PM
Firm up your connections where the universal shafts meet and do your straightening at the steering wheel.

nullset
08-29-2011, 09:18 PM
Thanks. I'll do that.

Time for a new todo list so I don't forget anything!

- Install bolts that hold the steering rack to the the column, straighten the steering wheel
- Finish installing rear fascia, tail lights, electrical, etc, and tighten
- Install new A/T transmission shifter cable (arrives tomorrow A/M) and fill transmission with fluid
- Using a multimeter, track down why the dash gauges aren't working. I want to start with the coolant temp sensor and the tachometer. I can do without the rest
- Install seats and as much of the interior as needed
- Install enough of the door bits that I can safely open and close both doors
- Install trim
- Wash / etc
- Install brake caliper retaining pins that are missing (front)
- Torque down angle drive / wheel hub.
- Inspect all nuts, bolts, and clamps for tightness, front to back
- Drive it around!
- Install props
- Parade!

I really only have until Friday AM at the latest, as I'd prefer to enjoy the first day of con instead of frantically working on the car…..but if I have to, I can skip friday. Saturday it has to be at the parade lineup at 9:30AM, though.

--buddy

sphiend
08-29-2011, 09:46 PM
Congrats Buddy! Sound like great progress. Can't wait to see her in parade.

nullset
08-29-2011, 11:32 PM
Install bolts that hold the steering rack to the the column

Done!



, straighten the steering wheel(can be done later….)

Can be done after the parade.

Offtopic: Can I do 'strikethrough' text on the forum? I couldn't figure it out….

TTait
08-29-2011, 11:57 PM
Thanks to Sean coming down yesterday, she now starts right up and purrs like a kitten.

--buddy

what were the remaining problems that you guys found?

nullset
08-30-2011, 12:13 AM
Setting the mixture, reinstalling the exhaust, and tracing down an electrical gremlin or two were the primary things we did.

We were both surprised how good it sounded once it fired up. I'll post another video once the A/T shifter cable is reinstalled and I can put the transmission back together.

One more trip to Napa (for some crow's feet) and I might be able to drive this thing tomorrow.

I just finished reinstalling the tail light assemblies. I have no idea how many, if any, of the lights work, though…..

--buddy

sean
08-30-2011, 06:09 AM
what were the remaining problems that you guys found?

There may have been a few leaks we found along the way too :nervous:.

TTait
08-30-2011, 11:29 AM
death by papercuts...

nullset
08-30-2011, 12:43 PM
There may have been a few leaks we found along the way too :nervous:.

Like vacuum and fuel…. :)

sean
08-30-2011, 12:53 PM
Like vacuum and fuel…. :)

Cough,Cough...transmission fluid...cough cough....


:smile:

nullset
08-30-2011, 03:00 PM
Cough,Cough...transmission fluid...cough cough....


:smile:

HAHA. I knew you were going to bring that up!

Update: Shifter cable is now reinstalled!

I'd been warned to make sure the transmission stayed in park or you'd need to turn it on it's head to get everything lined back up and get the cable back in. When it slipped out of park I freaked.

Fortunately it's not that bad. If the drain pan is out, push on the cog until it's in the lowest gear. At the top you'll see a threaded rod (fairly thin) hanging down. There's a hole in the casing behind it. If you insert the cable, you'll see the end of it coming out of that hole. Line that threaded rod up and push the cable on to it and get it started threading. Now you don't have to remove the transmission and stand it on its head!

I'm putting the drain pan on next, then bolting the shifter cable to the frame. After that, I am going to fill the transmission fluid, tighten down the angle drive / driver side wheel nut (whatever it's called), do one final check, throw a seat in, and take it for a brief spin around the metro.

--buddy

sean
08-30-2011, 03:08 PM
Fortunately it's not that bad. If the drain pan is out, push on the cog until it's in the lowest gear. At the top you'll see a threaded rod (fairly thin) hanging down. There's a hole in the casing behind it. If you insert the cable, you'll see the end of it coming out of that hole. Line that threaded rod up and push the cable on to it and get it started threading. Now you don't have to remove the transmission and stand it on its head!


Which is exactly why I told you to hold off on closing up the pan and refilling like you wanted to.

nullset
08-30-2011, 06:59 PM
IT (CENSORD) WORKS! I FINALLY INVENTED SOMETHING THAT WORKS!!!!!!!!!

I just took her for a test run! I picked up a 20 oz of coke, drove back to freeside, and mixed up a nice bourbon and coke.

It's not perfect, but IT FREAKING MOVES! HELL YEAH!

I'm going to be taking it very slowly until I can get the console working and other things checked out, but it is sufficient for the parade.

I AM VERY HAPPY. BACK TO DRINKING BOURBON!

Great thanks to Sean, Freeside, Dmtalk, and everyone else that helped me through this process. And thanks to DMC Midwest for getting my A/T shifter cable to me so quickly.

--buddy

sean
08-30-2011, 07:00 PM
SWEET!!! Before you pass out from celebration how about some update pics?

nullset
08-30-2011, 07:05 PM
SWEET!!! Before you pass out from celebration how about some update pics?

After I clean up my mess in the back and wash it :)

--buddy

sean
08-30-2011, 07:06 PM
After I clean up my mess in the back and wash it :)

--buddy

Bah... We ain't gonna judge, we've all seen this thing at her worse.

nullset
08-30-2011, 07:14 PM
I'm going to post another video soon.

It still seems to have a hot start issue. Should I tweak the mixture up a hair, or do you think I need the new o-rings to fix that?

If I turn the engine off after it's warmed up, it won't start back up.

--buddy

sean
08-30-2011, 07:26 PM
I'm hesitant to have you adjust without knowing what your rest pressure is. Are you able to get it to start at all while hot?

nullset
08-30-2011, 07:28 PM
I'm hesitant to have you adjust without knowing what your rest pressure is. Are you able to get it to start at all while hot?

Only if I do the plug swap. Even then, it takes a while before it starts up.

--buddy

sean
08-30-2011, 07:31 PM
Got any fuel gauges you can toss on there? Since you just replaced the accumulator one would think ppr oring but it would be good to if you are not holding pressure first

nullset
08-30-2011, 07:38 PM
Got any fuel gauges you can toss on there? Since you just replaced the accumulator one would think ppr oring but it would be good to if you are not holding pressure first

I don't think I have a fuel gauge. I could try borrowing one from auto zone if you think they'd have one.

It seems to be holding fuel pressure. I don't have the air filter refitted yet. I can see that even after several minutes I can still push down on the pressure plate and feel that it's resisting.

It seems to happen if I turn the engine off and try to turn it right back on within a few seconds to minutes.

--buddy

sean
08-30-2011, 07:46 PM
Also don't forget that you are running your car without an O2 sensor hooked up ao your hot mixture is off. YoU can try bumping the mix but I think after the parade you are gonna need to ive the car some more attention but a a slower pace.

TTait
08-30-2011, 07:56 PM
I'm going to post another video soon.

It still seems to have a hot start issue. Should I tweak the mixture up a hair, or do you think I need the new o-rings to fix that?

If I turn the engine off after it's warmed up, it won't start back up.

--buddy

If your not 100% confident in the o rings, replace them - cheap and easy. Take a quick peek at them - I had a bad one a few days ago - it was split in half. Can't hurt to take a look.

nullset
08-30-2011, 08:09 PM
If your not 100% confident in the o rings, replace them - cheap and easy. Take a quick peek at them - I had a bad one a few days ago - it was split in half. Can't hurt to take a look.

Is there a 'howto' on this? What do I need?

I would wait until after the parade, but I'm worried that I'll have trouble starting it, and with all the props on, I won't be able to do the plug swap to get it going, at least not easily.

Sean, I'll grab an O2 sensor and install it. That's pretty easy to find locally and they're not terribly expensive.

--buddy

sean
08-30-2011, 08:32 PM
No how-to but it is pretty straight forward, give me a call when it's time. FYI I have the PPR oring kit and an O2 sensor here if you feel like making the trip, I can show you how to install whle your here.

nullset
08-30-2011, 09:55 PM
No how-to but it is pretty straight forward, give me a call when it's time. FYI I have the PPR oring kit and an O2 sensor here if you feel like making the trip, I can show you how to install whle your here.

I would, but I'm not sure either of my cars can make the trip right now….I have the new water pump and brake cylinder for the driver, but don't have time to install them just yet….

I decided to take Marsha for a taco bell run. The engine started dying as we were on our way back. I suspect an electrical fault, or the alternator wiring isn't correct.

One of our members has a massive truck and will be towing it around the corner quickly.

--buddy

sean
08-30-2011, 10:09 PM
I decided to take Marsha for a taco bell run. The engine started dying as we were on our way back. I suspect an electrical fault, or the alternator wiring isn't correct.

Did you ever sort out the Saturn alternator wiring?.

nullset
08-31-2011, 12:47 AM
As it turns out, it died because it was out of gas…..

*runs away*

I guess this means I should get the dash gauges working, as that would've told me what to check first!

The alternator may be outputting a little low. I need to loop it's sense line back over to the output, then it'll be fine. It's working, but I want a little more juice.

--buddy

TTait
08-31-2011, 01:28 AM
Is there a 'howto' on this? [hot start o rings in fuel distributor] What do I need?
--buddy

Ratchet with a 10mm and 15mm sockets?, or adjustable wrench, and a standard cable tie just in case.
The kit from hervey has all the parts you need, two nitrile o rings and a fresh copper washer for good measure.

Easy to do: Remove air filter housing (3x 10mm bolts I think). Use a socket or adjustable wrench (15mm?) to loosen the hex fitting on the rear facing side of the fuel distributor, passenger side. Carefully slide out the assembly. Do not allow the center pin to touch the FD as you withdraw it or you will ground out the detonator and blow up the fuel tank. Just kidding. That only happens on Ford Pintos.

There are 3 major parts, the main valve assembly you unscrewed, a spring, and an inner cylinder that goes on the spring that likely got stuck inside the opening. If the spring is the last part to come out at first the inner cylinder is lightly stuck inside there. To get it out I just inserted the end of a cable tie, put a little sideways pressure on it and pulled it right out. Replace the two O rings and the copper washer with the new ones, put it all back together and tighten it up. I think it would be tough to cross thread when re installing, but as always be careful and start it by hand first. Run the car to check for leaks before installing the air filter box again.

5 minutes or less.

Photo reference here:

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/fuel-injection.html

See 3 photos 80% of the way down the page under the heading "Here is where the Hot Start 2 kit goes in the distributor"

I tried to find my own o-rings for this fix 3 years ago, the ones I found were close, but not perfect obviously - just get them from John. He's been kind enough to post the photos so let him have the $3.50.

sean
08-31-2011, 07:37 AM
As it turns out, it died because it was out of gas…..

*runs away*


:shocked:

Buddy, Buddy, Buddy, you never stop one upping yourself! :D

sean
09-01-2011, 09:48 PM
So whats the word? She gonna make it saturday?

nullset
09-01-2011, 10:05 PM
So whats the word? She gonna make it saturday?

Yup, she's ready to go!

sean
09-01-2011, 10:10 PM
Yup, she's ready to go!

Excellent, so where my pics at?

nullset
09-01-2011, 10:13 PM
Excellent, so where my pics at?

Haha. There will be plenty after the parade ;)

--buddy

Kenny_Z
09-01-2011, 10:36 PM
You're driving your time machine in the Dragoncon parade? That is awesome. If a short dark haired guy or a tall chubby wolverine looking guy talk to you about a coworker with a red Delorean...I don't know those guys. Fill their heads with false information ;)

sean
09-02-2011, 06:22 AM
If a short dark haired guy or a tall chubby wolverine looking guy talk to you about a coworker with a red Delorean...I don't know those guys. Fill their heads with false information ;)

But what if they are trying to give him Grays Sports Almanac?

Kenny_Z
09-03-2011, 07:26 PM
I got a text from one of the guys telling me how awesome the BTTF Delorean in the parade was. Congrats Null :)

If they are trying to give him a Grays then he needs to hit with it because they are supposed to be giving that to me :P

Dangermouse
09-04-2011, 11:13 PM
Hey Buddy,

Have been following this thread with interest but lost track of it last week. Kudos on getting it finished. Wish I had been able to see it on Saturday.

sean
09-06-2011, 01:29 PM
So can we get a post show wrap up? How's 2930 doing and did you take care of 2072's problems?

nullset
09-06-2011, 01:33 PM
2930 survived the parade, but boiled over. I think it's air in the coolant system that didn't get shaken out.

It's still not nearly safe to drive until I can fix the dash gauges. I'll be working on that over the next few weeks.

Tonight I'm doing the water pump and brake master cylinder on 2072. The steering rack will be done in a few more days. After that, I'll be trying to diagnose the electrical problems with 2930, and starting to make it safer to drive.

For now,j both cars are parked….2072 should be back on the road tomorrow. She'll be going to a frame shop soon, I hope.

--buddy

sean
09-06-2011, 01:34 PM
2930 survived the parade...

Good! Still waiting on my pics ;-). I bet your work is glad to have you back :D

nullset
09-06-2011, 08:17 PM
One thing I haven't mentioned so far, that's slightly annoying….

2930 is an 81 that's been upgraded to the single key system.

The only problem is that the keys don't match! So I have 2 identical looking keys, one of which operates the ignition, and the other operates the doors. Ugh….

--buddy