Headlight question for the EU crowd

[MML]

This one is for Elvis in particular!
I read your comment about headlights, I hope you can help with this one. I'm completely useless with electrical problems.

We fitted new headlights to the car today, these Hella units:
http://seekpart24.com/hella/insert-spotlight-1kb003177597
http://seekpart24.com/hella/insert-headlight-1lb003177511

And used these bulbs:
http://www.autoheadlightbulbs.co.uk/h1-ultra-power-bulbs-5000k
http://www.autoheadlightbulbs.co.uk/h4-ultra-power-bulbs-5000k
http://www.autoheadlightbulbs.co.uk/t4w-philips-bluevision

The problem is as follows... I turn on the sidelights, all is ok. I turn on the dipped beams, all is ok. I turn on full beams, all is ok. However when I return to dipped beams, the inner bulb on the passenger side glows very, very faintly. It's hard to see unless you look really closely. I noticed it by accident while admiring the new lights. The driver side doesn't.

I think all the fuses are their standard values. Nothing else, as far as I know, has been modified or changed, everything is standard.

What could the problem be? I saw the line about swapping pins, can you expand a bit on that? Again I am completely useless when it comes to all things electrical! :tongue:

I'm worried about damaging or melting something if I leave them on too long! :shock:

[DMC5180]

When you convert to H4 base bulbs, the (black and Blue/white) wires of the connector(outboard only) must be switched. Just de-pin those and reinstall opposite. Without doing that, you will get back feeding. I has to do with the way the H4 bulbs are configured internally. Just do the terminal swap and everything should be fine. Your H1 MAIN beams are fine. No mod required with those.

If you've never removed a terminal before. Just slide tiny screw driver or blade between the housing and flat side of the terminal. Bend the lock tab inward to release it from the housing. Once removed just bend the tab back out slightly so that it locks in the housing upon reinsertion.

[Elvis]

I can't really add anything to that.


But it's great you're asking, about 50% of the cars over here have or had
the same issue because people didn't ask :-)

[MML]

Whoa thanks a lot guys! Glad to know it's something reasonably straightforward. Will hopefully get that sorted today and report back!

What about the fuses, should higher rated ones be fitted? :hmm:

[DMC5180]

It has been proven that fuse 15 (10A) runs a little too close to the rating threshold. Some have chosen to increase the size in that location to a 15 amp.

The most important thing here is to be sure your fuses are clean (I prefer replacement) and the Fuse box terminals are clean. The best thing for anyone is too do nowadays is to replace the box and install the improved terminals. Not required but Highly Recommended, If you have the classic melted fuse box syndrome. Fuse 15 is one the locations that can show signs of getting hot. Mine never did but I've seen plenty of pictures where that is the case.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I thought the headlight fuses were 20 amp stock. I did some testing of fuses back when this was discussed years ago. You defently don't want to be running a fuse near it's rated value because it will get hot.

I will need to run another current check on my car. Just pull the fuse and measure the current with a meter but you need to use some heavy wire leads for the meter. Also you want to do this with the engine running so your voltage is around 14 volts.

I seem to remember currents less than 15 amps on my car so I stuck with stock 20 amp. But I have since installed new battery and ground wires so I need to revisit those readings. If it goes much above 15 amps, I would up the fuse to a 25 amp.

[Ron]

What about the fuses, should higher rated ones be fitted? :hmm:
$.02

In a perfect, well grounded world, using those bulbs (and stock beam indicator bulbs), P = I x E

Low Beams:
P = (2 x 55W) + 2W = 112W, E = 12V (batt) so, I = P/E = 112/12 = 9.333 Amps
so the 20A stock fuse is actually overkill, but use it.

High beams:
P = (4 x 55W) + 2W = 222W, E = 12V (batt) so, I = P/E = 222/12 = 18.5 Amps
So you are pushing it too close for the stock 20A fuse, use 25A.

Note that 12V is used as a 'worst case' (battery voltage) but the actual voltage will be higher when the engine is running [14.2V usually, although the D manual calls for 13.5 to 15V], so the rate would be lower eg 222/15 = 14.8 Amps! This is why we found during the previously mentioned discussion you could run the much lower wattage stock bulbs for 30 minutes w/o blowing a 15A fuse.
Also, a bulb's actual rate and advertised rate are...well you know, different ;-)

Note: Assuming good clean connections, stock 20A fuses are fine for stock bulbs!

[MML]

$.02

In a perfect, well grounded world, using those bulbs (and stock beam indicator bulbs), P = I x E

Low Beams:
P = (2 x 55W) + 2W = 112W, E = 12V (batt) so, I = P/E = 112/12 = 9.333 Amps
so the 20A stock fuse is actually overkill, but use it.

High beams:
P = (4 x 55W) + 2W = 222W, E = 12V (batt) so, I = P/E = 222/12 = 18.5 Amps
So you are pushing it too close for the stock 20A fuse, use 25A.

Note that 12V is used as a 'worst case' (battery voltage) but the actual voltage will be higher when the engine is running [14.2V usually, although the D manual calls for 13.5 to 15V], so the rate would be lower eg 222/15 = 14.8 Amps! This is why we found during the previously mentioned discussion you could run the much lower wattage stock bulbs for 30 minutes w/o blowing a 15A fuse.
Also, a bulb's actual rate and advertised rate are...well you know, different ;-)

Note: Assuming good clean connections, stock 20A fuses are fine for stock bulbs!


I think my brain just blew a fuse! :biggrin:

[Ron]

I think my brain just blew a fuse! :biggrin:You should of been around to see the sparks fly when we had the heated discussion before we figured out half of us were talking about overrating the fuses for bulbs used on different sides of the big pond!

:flamed::gunfire::chairshot::smackbum::angry_whip: :boxface::banghead::smashfreak:

[MML]

Your H1 MAIN beams are fine. No mod required with those.

I just saw that line, and it occurred to me my wording was a bit ambiguous, just to clarify it's the one arrowed that's glowing... does what you said still apply??

http://i.imgur.com/nlxTe.jpg

[DMC5180]

Yes, The inner Main Beam Headlight in you application uses a single filament Bulb with and H1 base. With the wires corrected on the outer H4 (dual Filament)bulbs, you will not get back feeding into the Main beam circuit when your dip beams are on. Its hard for me to speak in British terms:biggrin: We you use HI(main) LO (dip) over here.

You must correct the wires for outer headlamps.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I love my new clamp on current probe. You need a way to measure currents above the 10 amp limit of most DVMs and not introduce voltage drops with the meter leads and shunt resistor.

My high beam headlight fuse passes 17.8 amps with the engine running.
The low beam headlight fuse passes 10.3 amps with the engine running.

I decided to replace the OEM 20 amp fuse on the high beam with a 25 amp.

I have all four silverstar sealed beam bulbs.

[DCUK Martin]

Re-Wiring headlight connectors for H4 bulbs

The DeLorean has US-style Sylvania sealed beam headlights as standard. The outer lenses are a 3-pin twin filament type for main and dip beam, and the inner lights are just main beam and have a 2-pin connector.

Our replacement lights use a standard 3-pin H4 bulb. This is not a problem on the inner lights because the two-pin connector fits the 3-pin bulb and powers the high beam filament without a problem. The pin positioning is identical on the 3-pin connector apart from being upside-down, relative to the old sealed beams, when the new lamps are installed.

Unfortunaltely, the connections on the 3-pin plugs on the outer lights are not the same on the H4's as on the original sealed beams. Symptoms of lights not having had their wiring corrected include the dip and main beams being seemingly reversed, and when on dip beam, seeing the high beam lights glowing slightly. Re-wiring is very simple, once you know the correct order - and not altogether simple to work out!

These instructions are given in the car's perspective - ie "left" means "towards the left side of the car". And you will need to re-wire both three pin connectors behind both outer lights.

Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver, carefully prise down the locking tabs in the spade connectors, allowing them to be pushed through and out of the back of the plastic housing. Once out, carefully prise them up again so they can be locked back into place.

Re-install the BLACK wire(s) to the LEFT
Re-install the WHITE/BLUE wire(s) to the RIGHT
Re-install the RED/BLUE wire(s) to the TOP

[DMC5180]

Sean,

I think Martins post is clear an concise. About the only thing missing are a few pictures. Those could be added later.

Assuming there isn't a similar thread in on the topic already, I'd separate that post and place it in "resources" or "How to".

[Ron]

Obviously no big deal with just 3 wires, but isn't the convention "Main Color"/"Stripe Color"?

[DMC5180]

Obviously no big deal with just 3 wires, but isn't the convention "Main Color"/"Stripe Color"?

Yup, He worded it backwards. Good Catch.

should be (Blue/White) and (Blue/Red)

On the schematic (U/W) and (U/R)