Door lock - Trying to reconnect

[orbitron3000]

Hi everyone,

I am trying to get the "automated" door locks to work -- when you lock the driver side, the passenger side unlocks etc. Using the colored wiring diagram, I managed to stumble upon the door lock relay in the car. However, there is a switch of some sort next to it that I can't make heads or tails of.

Here's a picture of the relay and switch:
774

The red circle is the one I don't know what it is. I'm guessing it's the door lock thermal trip based on the brown wire going into it. The small red wire I think is from the driver side of the car, and there are two open spots. Does anything go here? If so, is it the big red wire (with a green arrow next to it at the bottom of the picture?) that comes out of the door lock relay?

I have tried to plug in the red wire into both spots and try the locks, but to no avail. Am I barking up the wrong tree to get the locks to work?

[stevedmc]

Am I barking up the wrong tree to get the locks to work?

If you have the original lock module the answer would be yes. Chances are it was disabled by a previous owner for a reason.

[Chris 16409]

The red circle is the one I don't know what it is.

I have that thinner red wire going to my door lock circuit breaker as well. I'm not sure what it goes too either. The thicker red wire is the main power wire for the door lock module.

stevedmc has it right, the PO disconnected the door lock module for a reason. It probably doesn't work, either the lock module or the solenoids are at fault.

[orbitron3000]

If you have the original lock module the answer would be yes. Chances are it was disabled by a previous owner for a reason.


I have that thinner red wire going to my door lock circuit breaker as well. I'm not sure what it goes too either. The thicker red wire is the main power wire for the door lock module.

stevedmc has it right, the PO disconnected the door lock module for a reason. It probably doesn't work, either the lock module or the solenoids are at fault.

thanks. so to get the door locks to work properly, my best bet would be to replace the door lock solenoids with the linear actuators (if they haven't already) and then replace the door lock relay too? Would it be prudent to replace the door lock circuit breaker too?

[dmc6960]

You probably should replace the lock module (relay) first. This is the part that will fry the solenoids. Its also the easiest to replace. Then you can see if you still have working solenoids. If they are also toast, (and your locks move freely by hand), then consider getting the actuators from Toby. The breaker is fine and there should be no need to replace it. The weak breakers are the cooling fan and blower motor ones.

The extra thin red wire is power for the power antenna.

[orbitron3000]

You probably should replace the lock module (relay) first. This is the part that will fry the solenoids. Its also the easiest to replace. Then you can see if you still have working solenoids. If they are also toast, (and your locks move freely by hand), then consider getting the actuators from Toby. The breaker is fine and there should be no need to replace it. The weak breakers are the cooling fan and blower motor ones.

The extra thin red wire is power for the power antenna.

Is it worth getting the digital door lock relay from DMC? I have to take the door apart to see if I have the solenoids, right? Or can I peak through the one of the lens holders in the door to see?

[dmc6960]

Is it worth getting the digital door lock relay from DMC? I have to take the door apart to see if I have the solenoids, right? Or can I peak through the one of the lens holders in the door to see?

Odds are 99.9% you still have solenoids. No need to open them up just to look. Are you good with electrical? If so you can jump the wires which power the solenoids to test their operation in both directions. Make sure both latches are completely closed when you do this though, as they do not like locking when unlatched :dunno: .

Yes, the DMC digital module is the best bet if you do not want to rebuild your original module.

[orbitron3000]

Odds are 99.9% you still have solenoids. No need to open them up just to look. Are you good with electrical? If so you can jump the wires which power the solenoids to test their operation in both directions. Make sure both latches are completely closed when you do this though, as they do not like locking when unlatched :dunno: .

Yes, the DMC digital module is the best bet if you do not want to rebuild your original module.

So jumping them once (say on the white harness that comes out of the door lock relay will switch the lock (if it's unlocked it'll lock and vice versa)?

[Bitsyncmaster]

To run actuators with the OEM door lock module would require a set of two relays. So you don't have actuators.

[Bitsyncmaster]

So jumping them once (say on the white harness that comes out of the door lock relay will switch the lock (if it's unlocked it'll lock and vice versa)?

You jumper (just a quick connection) +12 volts to the red/pink to lock or jumper +12 volts to the red/slate to unlock. I may have the "lock" and "unlock" reversed.

[dmc6960]

Yes, as long as your jumping the correct wires...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=92&d=1306264512

Take a spare cable, 16ga or higher (doesn't need to be huge since this is just a quick test), touch it to the breaker (careful, 12v always hot) and then to each of the wires. Red/Slate and Red/Pink.

Make sure both doors are completely closed when testing.

[David T]

The breaker should be replaced with a 15 AMP fuse if you are using the OEM door lock module. Chances are the solenoids are burnt up. They can be rewound or replaced or replaced with actuators. If the Central Locking System is not working and you are trying to revive it the best way to do it would be to clean and relubricate all of the door lock mechanisms in BOTH doors and go over all of the door and linkage adjustments. If the wire is not connected for the module I would hesitate just hooking it up. Worst case the module is fried (the relay contacts are welded together). This will lock you in the car and drain the battery till it goes dead. You will also melt the door solenoids. A 15AMP fuse will blow and not reset so it is a little safer.
David Teitelbaum

[content22207]

I have that thinner red wire going to my door lock circuit breaker as well. I'm not sure what it goes too either. The thicker red wire is the main power wire for the door lock module.

Power antenna.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[dmc6960]

?

The extra thin red wire is power for the power antenna.

[Elvis]

You can simply open that module and check the relays if the contacts are still moving.
I bet they do.
To protect your solenoids from frying - do what David said - install an inline fuse into the thick red wire. I usually use 10A ones, 15A are good, too.

When the solenoids are fried the 10A fuse will blow with the first uses of the module.

[content22207]

?

Duplicate information in a DeLorean forum? Tell me it isn't so.

My eyes tend to glaze over when the perennial threads start popping up, and I simply missed your last sentence -- my sincerest apologies.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[orbitron3000]

Yes, as long as your jumping the correct wires...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=92&d=1306264512

Take a spare cable, 16ga or higher (doesn't need to be huge since this is just a quick test), touch it to the breaker (careful, 12v always hot) and then to each of the wires. Red/Slate and Red/Pink.

Make sure both doors are completely closed when testing.

I will try this tonight, but I have a feeling that the relay is dead. :/


The breaker should be replaced with a 15 AMP fuse if you are using the OEM door lock module. Chances are the solenoids are burnt up. They can be rewound or replaced or replaced with actuators. If the Central Locking System is not working and you are trying to revive it the best way to do it would be to clean and relubricate all of the door lock mechanisms in BOTH doors and go over all of the door and linkage adjustments. If the wire is not connected for the module I would hesitate just hooking it up. Worst case the module is fried (the relay contacts are welded together). This will lock you in the car and drain the battery till it goes dead. You will also melt the door solenoids. A 15AMP fuse will blow and not reset so it is a little safer.
David Teitelbaum


You can simply open that module and check the relays if the contacts are still moving.
I bet they do.
To protect your solenoids from frying - do what David said - install an inline fuse into the thick red wire. I usually use 10A ones, 15A are good, too.

When the solenoids are fried the 10A fuse will blow with the first uses of the module.

Is it worth the effort to revive the system as is? I'm thinking that I might be better of leaving it alone for now (aside from testing to see if the relay's bought the farm) and just upgrading to the digital relay from DMC and the linear actuators from DPNW. Especially considering that at some point I would like to install the remote lock/unlock and maybe the door and hood launchers.

[Chris 16409]

Is it worth the effort to revive the system as is?

Let me just say, the PO had the lock solenoids 'replaced' by DMC-CA in late 2008 with I'm assuming 'refurbished' units. When I bought the car in late 2009 the passenger solenoid was already getting weak on the unlocking movement. Sometimes the passenger side would not unlock with the drivers side. And I had a lockzilla. So I really don't know the condition of the solenoids that were installed. I didn't want to mess with them and bought actuators from Toby. I didn't want to have to mess with it anymore. I had a lockzilla that still worked fine, so I didn't buy Houston's new digital lock module. My advice is to leave your car as it is and wait to you can buy the new parts. I don't like having to fix the same thing multiple times.

[David T]

If there is a mechanical problem or your solenoids are toasted it doesn't matter what module you have or the condition of it. Buying a new "improved" door lock module cannot make up for misadjusted mechanisms, forced doors, thick grease, etc. You have to start at the beginning, you need proper working doors and locks with everything adjusted and working smoothly. If you are not prepared to do it all then leave it disconnected till you are ready to tackle the job.
David Teitelbaum

[orbitron3000]

Let me just say, the PO had the lock solenoids 'replaced' by DMC-CA in late 2008 with I'm assuming 'refurbished' units. When I bought the car in late 2009 the passenger solenoid was already getting weak on the unlocking movement. Sometimes the passenger side would not unlock with the drivers side. And I had a lockzilla. So I really don't know the condition of the solenoids that were installed. I didn't want to mess with them and bought actuators from Toby. I didn't want to have to mess with it anymore. I had a lockzilla that still worked fine, so I didn't buy Houston's new digital lock module. My advice is to leave your car as it is and wait to you can buy the new parts. I don't like having to fix the same thing multiple times.

I agree with this sentiment. I don't like have to fix the same thing multiple times.


If there is a mechanical problem or your solenoids are toasted it doesn't matter what module you have or the condition of it. Buying a new "improved" door lock module cannot make up for misadjusted mechanisms, forced doors, thick grease, etc. You have to start at the beginning, you need proper working doors and locks with everything adjusted and working smoothly. If you are not prepared to do it all then leave it disconnected till you are ready to tackle the job.
David Teitelbaum

That in mind, I will wait until I am ready to do a complete overhaul of the system. So what would be a list of everything to do to fully upgrade the system? Right now the door locks (both) work manually, the driver side door opens with no effort, but the passenger side you need to pull up a little for it to fully release it feels like. So I would need, parts-wise:

new / improved Door Lock Relay (this would either be improved DMCH part or the Lockzilla?)
Linear actuators to replace (probably) defunct solenoids

what parts am I missing?

[Chris 16409]

The Lockzilla is not available anymore. They come up for sale every once and a while, but you're most likely going to have the best luck with the new digital lock module. You can buy it from Houston, or contact Josh Bengston (Delorean Performance Industries - http://www.deloreanindustries.com/contact) to see what he's been using.

[orbitron3000]

The Lockzilla is not available anymore. They come up for sale every once and a while, but you're most likely going to have the best luck with the new digital lock module. You can buy it from Houston, or contact Josh Bengston (Delorean Performance Industries - http://www.deloreanindustries.com/contact) to see what he's been using.

I did not know Lockzilla was no longer available. Thanks for the tip.

[Andy_]

I know this is a really old thread but hopefully someone can clarify.
Im chasing an issue in the wire that comes from the inertia switch / telltale.
Is that wire a 12v supply?
on the wiring diagram its from the central ac switch.

In the diagram above there are 2 wires going to each lock/unlock switch.
In reality there are 3 wires. Or is the 3rd earth? Can someone explain what
each of the 3 wires do on the switches please?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I know this is a really old thread but hopefully someone can clarify.
Im chasing an issue in the wire that comes from the inertia switch / telltale.
Is that wire a 12v supply?
on the wiring diagram its from the central ac switch.

In the diagram above there are 2 wires going to each lock/unlock switch.
In reality there are 3 wires. Or is the 3rd earth? Can someone explain what
each of the 3 wires do on the switches please?

There are only 2 wires for the door switches. One is grounded when both doors are locked and floats when unlocked. The other wire is grounded when both doors are unlocked and floats when locked. The door lock ECU has pull-up resistors on those wires so you would see 12 volts when the door switches don't ground them. That third wire (brown/pink) is connected to the door switch brown/pink. That wire can be grounded by the inertia switch to force the ECU to unlock the doors. So if the doors are unlocked the door switch also grounds the LOCK DOOR lamp.

[Ron]

The "3rd" wire is what grounds the 2 wires Dave mentions above (see below).
70421

[Andy_]

Thankyou for that, dave and ron, makes sense.
One more thing. I didnt have too much time to look today,
But im working from this diagram.
70427

I thought the door module was powered by the separate red wire
from the thermal cut out. Is it only the relays in the module powered
By the red wire, and the module itself is powered by the 12v+ in the connector?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thankyou for that, dave and ron, makes sense.
One more thing. I didnt have too much time to look today,
But im working from this diagram.
70427

I thought the door module was powered by the separate red wire
from the thermal cut out. Is it only the relays in the module powered
By the red wire, and the module itself is powered by the 12v+ in the connector?

With the OEM ECU the module circuit is powered by the small purple wire. The actuators get powered by the red wire from the beaker.