Adjusting alternator tension

[Kenny_Z]

I've heard several times on the forum that people want a way to fine tune their alternator's belt tension. Has anyone tried one of these?

http://www.superchevy.com/tech/sucp_0602_billet_serpentine_conversion_kit/photo_12.html

I was thinking about it last night as I was removing my alternator. It looks like a straight shot where one of these would work perfectly.

[Farrar]

You can make your own one of these from off-the-shelf parts. Matt Spittle has done so and the parts for mine will arrive tomorrow.

Edit: Got a pic --

8600

[Ron]

Ah, I thought you had a Delco (10Si) style for some reason, Farrar. That's why I mentioned the fan hitting (the ears are straight across) in your thread...

[Kenny_Z]

I found one on ebay for 8 bucks. I couldn't build it for that cheap. I am planning to put a caddy alternator in though. The tab placement is a little different but I should be able to make it work.

[Farrar]

I found one on ebay for 8 bucks.

Is it stainless? Just curious.

[Kenny_Z]

Nope, plated steel. It is a part from a Buell motorcycle. I'm not sure it's going to work out with my new alternator, if it does I may make a stainless one.

[Farrar]

Nope, plated steel. It is a part from a Buell motorcycle. I'm not sure it's going to work out with my new alternator, if it does I may make a stainless one.

If you decide to do this, I can let you know what parts to order from McMaster-Carr. :)

[Kenny_Z]

That's where I was looking for parts when I ran across the ebay deal. I'll take you up on that because I'd love to make a stainless version for my Nova and Stang.

[Farrar]

I just got my parts order from McMaster a few minutes ago. The threaded connecting rod is aluminum. Everything else is stainless. So if your car sees lots of humidity like mine, you might want to put a thin layer of anti-seize on the threads to avoid galvinic (sp?) corrosion -- however I think the engine compartment generally gets hot enough to ward off that possibililty. The jam nuts will hold the tension where you set it once you've got it where you like. (The Heim joints themselves are lined with Teflon.)

I like this setup so much I wonder if I could rig up something similar for an a/c belt tensioner... but that way may lie madness! :P

[mluder]

I just got my parts order from McMaster a few minutes ago. The threaded connecting rod is aluminum. Everything else is stainless. So if your car sees lots of humidity like mine, you might want to put a thin layer of anti-seize on the threads to avoid galvinic (sp?) corrosion -- however I think the engine compartment generally gets hot enough to ward off that possibililty. The jam nuts will hold the tension where you set it once you've got it where you like. (The Heim joints themselves are lined with Teflon.)

I like this setup so much I wonder if I could rig up something similar for an a/c belt tensioner... but that way may lie madness! :P

Isn't there already an AC belt tensioner?
Part number 17 -
8603

[Farrar]

Isn't there already an AC belt tensioner?

The threads are stripped out of that hole on my car's engine.

[Chris 16409]

Hey Farrar, can you put up links from McMaster?

[Farrar]

Hey Farrar, can you put up links from McMaster?

Sure thing.

PTFE-Lined Stainless Steel Ball Joint Rod End, 5/16"-24 Right-Hand Male Shank, 5/16" Ball ID, 1-1/4" L Thread (http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=59915K273)

PTFE-Lined Stainless Steel Ball Joint Rod End, 5/16"-24 Left-Hand Male Shank, 5/16" Ball ID, 1-1/4" L Thread (http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=59915K232)

Easy-Adjust Threaded Connecting Rod, 2" Overall Length, 5/16"-24 Threaded Female Ends (http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=8419K12)

18-8 Stainless Steel Left-Hand Threaded Thin Hex Nut, 5/16"-24 Thread Size, 1/2" Width, 3/16" Height, Packs of 5 (http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=94450A240)

Type 316 Stainless Steel Thin Hex Nut, 5/16"-24 Thread Size, 1/2" Width, 3/16" Height, Packs of 25 (http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=94805A213)

Obviously you will get more nuts than you need, but McMaster can't just sell you one jam nut. ;)

[Spittybug]

You can make your own one of these from off-the-shelf parts. Matt Spittle has done so and the parts for mine will arrive tomorrow.

Edit: Got a pic --

8600

That's an elegant solution. I did the same for my clutch pedal adjustment, but too much force on it (and its size) caused failure. I think I will be adding this to my list of enhancements however. For the time being I just lever a long handled yard tool between the alternator and the block and tighten the bolt....

[Bitsyncmaster]

That's an elegant solution. I did the same for my clutch pedal adjustment, but too much force on it (and its size) caused failure. I think I will be adding this to my list of enhancements however. For the time being I just lever a long handled yard tool between the alternator and the block and tighten the bolt....

I agree that this looks like a great idea. It's also on my list of things to do on my car.

[Farrar]

I agree that this looks like a great idea. It's also on my list of things to do on my car.

I installed it on mine yesterday and really like it. With two 5/16" wrenches (or in my case one 5/16" and one 1/2" because I couldn't find the other 5/16" wrench yesterday...) I can get the alternator belt nice and tight, and the Heim joints make up for the curve in the original bracket.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I installed it on mine yesterday and really like it. With two 5/16" wrenches (or in my case one 5/16" and one 1/2" because I couldn't find the other 5/16" wrench yesterday...) I can get the alternator belt nice and tight, and the Heim joints make up for the curve in the original bracket.

So is your parts list compete and you would not change anything if doing it again?

I was wondering if that coupler had both CW and CCW threads.

[Kenny_Z]

It is the ball joint end that has the left handed threads.

I received my ebay parts in the mail yesterday but haven't taken them out of the box yet.

[Farrar]

I was wondering if that coupler had both CW and CCW threads.

The end with left-hand threads is marked with a line.

The parts list is complete, including the jam nuts with LH and RH threads. Everything is stainless except the coupler, which is only available in aluminum.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The end with left-hand threads is marked with a line.

The parts list is complete, including the jam nuts with LH and RH threads. Everything is stainless except the coupler, which is only available in aluminum.

Thanks. I will place my order for the parts. Good job getting the right parts first time.:wrenchin:

[Ozzie]

Hey all, this is a great handy little mod, but just to give credit where it's due...



From: Matthew <******@***.com>
Date: Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: Hi MATT, RE: [DML] Additional Photos of Bryan Pearce's HEIM Trailing Arm Joints
To: ********,*********,***********


OK, I couldn't get pictures today. Anyway, I use it on my 3.0L with a serpentine belt, but I would imagine it would work the same for you. Everything is from mcmaster.com. The rod ends are 5/16", but I'm using 8mm bolts, so it fits, but tightly. Check and make sure you guys have 8mm bolts at both ends of your alternator bracket. Here's the parts list:

159915K273 PTFE-Lined Stainless Steel Ball Joint Rod End, 5/16"-24 Right-Hand Male Shank, 5/16" Ball ID, 1-1/4"
12.14

259915K232 PTFE-Lined Stainless Steel Ball Joint Rod End, 5/16"-24 Left-Hand Male Shank, 5/16" Ball ID, 1-1/4"
12.14


38419K1 2Easy-Adjust Threaded Connecting Rod, 2" Overall Length, 5/16"-24 Threaded Female Ends
15.78

194450A240 18-8 Stainless Steel Left-Hand Threaded Thin Hex Nut, 5/16"-24 Thread Size, 1/2" Width, 3/16" Height
Per Pack 4.20


294805A213 Type 316 Stainless Steel Thin Hex Nut, 5/16"-24 Thread Size, 1/2" Width, 3/16" Height, Packs of 25
Per Pack 5.35


I bought 316 stainless steel hex nuts for the right-hand thread because they came in packs of 25 (instead of 100).

Matt
#1604


"Supermatty" as he was called on the .com DMCTalk, recently posted on the DML that he had done this. I and others asked him for details and he sent the picture from earlier on this thread, along with the parts list above.

[Bitsyncmaster]

+1

Good job Matthew.

[Farrar]

Thanks. I will place my order for the parts. Good job getting the right parts first time.:wrenchin:
Somebody already posted "credit where credit is due," and I will add to it: Matthew David sent me a complete parts list in a Facebook message. All I had to do was plug in the part numbers at McMaster and add to my order (I was also ordering some hose and O-rings). I would give him the credit not only for the innovation but for saving all of us the trouble of figuring out exactly which parts to order. Super guy!

Edit: the picture I posted was also from Facebook. He sent me a few others. If y'all need them for reference, I can dig therm up and find them, too, but the one I posted is in my opinion the best for reference, since the fascia et al are not installed in that photo.

[Kenny_Z]

I bought two off Ebay because I knew my Nova would need one. Unfortunately they are way too short to use on my Mustang. Looks like I'm going to have to buy a billet aluminum kit from Summit for the 289. There's a spacer I'd need that I couldn't build as nice as the summit kit. Here's what my ebay bracket looks like. This is on my Nova's Inline 6.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/nova/nova02.jpg

[Spittybug]

Just did this today. No brainer. Makes life so much easier and virtually no chance of slipping. For those so inclined, I bet this would work for the clutch pedal adjustment too, just check the dimensions.

This was my first order from McMaster-Carr. I have a new favorite store. I ordered on Monday afternoon and I'm all done and installed by 3:00 cst on Wednesday. Shipping was a whopping $5.25 or something equally low. Wow.

:thumbup2:

[deloreanz]

I found one on ebay for 8 bucks. I couldn't build it for that cheap. I am planning to put a caddy alternator in though. The tab placement is a little different but I should be able to make it work.

What was it called? I searched around a bit but couldn't find any premade kit. I don't have an interest in spending $50+ dollars on a tensioner although I like this idea.

[Kenny_Z]

The Buell part I bought won't work on the stock Delorean alternator. The turnbuckle end is too large and gets right into the fan blades. You'd have to grind it down and I think it would take too much out of the structure to be safe. It'd be possible to build an extension bracket but by the time you did that it'd be worth getting what Farrar posted.

It works fine for my Nova so it wasn't a total bust.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Do you reuse the existing bolts, are they long enough?

I assume this will work with Hervey's alternator as well?

I would like to do this.

Also, we sell these at Jegs, I wonder if these would work(rod ends/heim joints small enough to clear):
They are stainless with chrome moly ends....

http://www.marchperformance.com/pg51.html#rods

http://www.marchperformance.com/products/adjrods.jpg


They advertise by min/max span. Anyone know what that would be?

Thanks!!

[Delorean Industries]

The alternator tensioning bracket has a slight bend to it. You will need to compensate for that with spacers. I think it will be really close to the fan blades though.

[Farrar]

The alternator tensioning bracket has a slight bend to it. You will need to compensate for that with spacers.

The Heim joints pivot enough to compensate for this, at least on my stock engine with DMCH alternator.

[Delorean Industries]

I was just thinking you would need to straighten it out as to keep it away from the fan blade.

[Farrar]

I was just thinking you would need to straighten it out as to keep it away from the fan blade.

I will take a picture tomorrow.

[Delorean Industries]

thanks!
I will take a picture tomorrow.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I need to get the parts to do this. Just have been so busy (family time and chores). So is Josh selling a kit of parts?

[Farrar]

So is Josh selling a kit of parts?

If he buys in bulk from McMaster or another source, he may well be able to do this at a lower cost to the end-used (e.g. only two nuts required whereas McMaster sells boxes with multiples).

[Delorean Industries]

If he buys in bulk from McMaster or another source, he may well be able to do this at a lower cost to the end-used (e.g. only two nuts required whereas McMaster sells boxes with multiples).

I wasn't planning on making any of these but I can. I'll pick up the piece at summit and see what it takes to make it fit.

[Farrar]

I wasn't planning on making any of these but I can. I'll pick up the piece at summit and see what it takes to make it fit.

If you can find an all-stainless solution, that would be best -- McMaster does not have the middle piece in stainless so it is the only aluminum in the linkage.

P.S. A similar solution for the a/c belt would be even better ;-)

[stevedmc]

Let it be known that I ordered the parts last night and I am jumping on the bandwagon.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I ordered March Performance part number RA-1.625, we stock them in the DC at work, so I will see it tomorrow.

I will let everyone know if it works by Monday. The kit runs $37.99.

[Kenny_Z]

I'll probably jump on the bandwagon as soon as this gets here from Summit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCH-20141/?rtype=10

I think this is the easy way of putting a caddy alternator into my D. I was looking to build something like it but for less than 25 bucks I can get that piece made from aircraft aluminum. Then I can use the turnbuckle tensioner i bought without it hitting the blades.

[Farrar]

9818

It's wet, windy, and rainy today so this is the best picture I can get for now.

[stevedmc]

It's pretty.

[Farrar]

It's pretty.

Maybe, but I bet I will have to make a video of the linkage not hitting any fan blades before anyone believes it.

[stevedmc]

Maybe, but I bet I will have to make a video of the linkage not hitting any fan blades before anyone believes it.

Considering no one is bashing you for it I would say you are doing pretty good. If I were the first to do this mod they would claim my alternator wouldn't be able to generate 1.21 gigawatts because of this.

[AdmiralSenn]

Interested in this as I just had to have my alternator serviced again.

Is that list of Mcmaster parts what you used, Farrar?

[Farrar]

Is that list of Mcmaster parts what you used, Farrar?

Yep! I simply ordered everything on Matt's list. :)

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I ordered March Performance part number 655-RA-1.625, we stock them in the warehouse at Jegs, so I will see it tomorrow.

I will let everyone know if it works by Monday. The kit runs $37.99 and is stainless with chrome moly ends.



Well here it is "mocked" into position:

Yes the fan blade is close, but it doesn't hit. Also this part number is nearly identical in adjusting distance as the stock bracket.
The only additional parts I will have to purchase are 3/8" longer bolts(joints are exactly 1/2" thick) for it to fit.

It works for me and for under $40. Thanks Matthew for the idea!!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/414753_10151531078895696_671145695_23802102_838159 571_o.jpg

[Farrar]

And here is a video of it not hitting the fan blades.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfJfSmSmeNw

[stevedmc]

I wonder if I am going to have any problems with this part on my 91 Saturn alternator.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Well here it is "mocked" into position:

Yes the fan blade is close, but it doesn't hit. Also this part number is nearly identical in adjusting distance as the stock bracket.
The only additional parts I will have to purchase are 3/8" longer bolts(joints are exactly 1/2" thick) for it to fit.

It works for me and for under $40. Thanks Matthew for the idea!!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/414753_10151531078895696_671145695_23802102_838159 571_o.jpg

Completed this project this morning with 2 stainless steel (13mm head) M8x1.25mm bolts(one 50mm and one 30mm long)and one stainless steel nut, loosen the pivot bolt and nut with 17mm socket, and then tighten the turnbuckle with 13mm and 14mm(SAE also works) wrenches and tighten the pivot and adjuster bolts, jamnuts, double-check connections and done...so easy now!!

[Farrar]

I wonder if I am going to have any problems with this part on my 91 Saturn alternator.

I doubt it. My Houston-supplied alternator looks like it's about the same size and orientation as the Delco/GM unit, just with different ears.

[justlooking]

I ordered March Performance part number RA-1.625, we stock them in the DC at work, so I will see it tomorrow.

I will let everyone know if it works by Monday. The kit runs $37.99.

Josh, while this kit is noticeably cheaper, the rod ends are 3/8", which is closer to 10mm than 8mm. While it may work, it will have more slop and so you'll lose some small amount of your potential thread adjustment just in taking up that slop.

McMaster does sell rod ends that are 5/16" with an oversized shank (3/8") which would be more appropriate if you are interested in tightening it up.

If Josh plans on making these from 100% stainless, I will encourage him to PM me as I would suggest making some small changes.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Josh, while this kit is noticeably cheaper, the rod ends are 3/8", which is closer to 10mm than 8mm. While it may work, it will have more slop and so you'll lose some small amount of your potential thread adjustment just in taking up that slop.

McMaster does sell rod ends that are 5/16" with an oversized shank (3/8") which would be more appropriate if you are interested in tightening it up.

If Josh plans on making these from100% stainless, I will encourage him to PM me as I would suggest making some small changes.

I honestly didn't see this issue during install. FWIW, I've driven quite a bit, even through rain and no issues...I'll report back after my trips to Indianapolis and Nashville of any issues....

[mluder]

I'm just curious... Does everyone really have a problem with alternator belt slippage in the stock configuration?

I just installed a new ALT from DMCH and just used a pry bar as a lever to tension the belt and have had no issues whatsoever.

I really just curious.

Cheers
Steven

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm just curious... Does everyone really have a problem with alternator belt slippage in the stock configuration?

I just installed a new ALT from DMCH and just used a pry bar as a lever to tension the belt and have had no issues whatsoever.

I really just curious.

Cheers
Steven

Yes that works but it's nice to not fight it when your on the side of road changing a belt.

[stevedmc]

It is working nice with my 91 Saturn alternator. I installed it a few days ago and have put a couple hundred miles on it so far with no problems. Very nice.

[AdmiralSenn]

Ordered!

We shall see how it turns out with my derpanator.

[AdmiralSenn]

Ordered!

We shall see how it turns out with my derpanator.

I am now hearing creepy, sinister laughing voices in my head every time I go to work on my car.

This was an expensive way to discover that my PO's custom alternator bracket was inexplicably mounted on what I think is one of the timing cover seal bolts - it's either a 6 or 7mm, WAY too small to trust with that kind of load. And the hardware that used to hold the stock alternator bracket in place is now very much gone. I'll have to see if my stack of random bolts that's come off the car over the years holds a bolt/washer/nut set of appropriate thickness and length.

So I have a very pretty adjusting linkage that doesn't attach to anything.

[Farrar]

The bolt on the engine end of the alternator tensioning bracket/linkage is set into a flange on the side of the engine. The back side of the flange is indented with six points so that a hex bolt sits into it and the threads point at you. Look for such a flange; I think there may only be one. I believe the stock bolt is an M8, so the hex head may be 13mm.

[AdmiralSenn]

DMCH's site confirms it's an M8. Naturally, I don't have any M8s in my bin of crap. I'll swing by the hardware store tomorrow and grab a handful.

At least I've soothed my mind on the belt size - when I first saw how long the PO's bracket was in comparison to the new tensioner I was afraid my belt wouldn't tension. Knowing where it's SUPPOSED to mount makes it clear that at least one thing on this car is still standard...

[Chris 16409]

I want to order the components to build one of these as well. I was just wondering if the nuts could be sourced at a local hardware store. Or are they too much of a specialist item (being thin).

[Farrar]

I want to order the components to build one of these as well. I was just wondering if the nuts could be sourced at a local hardware store. Or are they too much of a specialist item (being thin).

Finding a local source for left-hand thread nuts seems to be the sticking point.

[Chris 16409]

An independant hardware store in my town has a giant repository all off kinds of fasteners and hardware. Since I had a $24 credit with them, I decided to source as much as I could from them, and order the remainder from McMaster. Surprisingly, they had both left and right hand threaded rod ends. They also had the right hand jam nuts in stock, so I didn't have to buy the pack of 25. They had left hand regular nuts, but not jam. So I ordered the nuts and connecting coupler from McMaster. Should get the remaining parts shortly.

[Chris 16409]

Does anyone know the best way to remove the block bolt for the alternator tensioner. I want to install a longer one to make sure I accommodate the thickness of the new tensioner.

[Farrar]

Mine is just a hex bolt set into a 6-point recess on the inside of that ear.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

For the record:
I have now put over 2000 miles on 3307 with this upgrade and have had no issues what-so-ever. Works like a charm!
I have checked to make sure that the belt is tight by twisting it with two fingers and ensuring it turns approximately 90 degrees only with reasonable pressure and adjusting tension as necessary to accomplish this (as standard maintanance), which im my opinion is critical.


An excellent upgrade! Thanks again Matthew!

Josh Q

[Chris 16409]

For the record:
I have now put over 2000 miles on 3307 with this upgrade and have had no issues what-so-ever.

Wow that's great Josh. How many miles a day do you drive.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

50 miles round trip if I drive to work. I took the trips to Nashville and Indianapolis which racked up the majority of milage and quickly within the last month...

[AdmiralSenn]

Well, this was a fun way to discover that my PO's choice of alternator has one mounting hole 90 degrees away from stock...

[Jeff K]

Yes that works but it's nice to not fight it when your on the side of road changing a belt.

I read this thread and though this was kinda superfluous too.

Until.. I was driving home this weekend and threw a belt. Changing it on that side street sucked!

I'm getting this today.

[Ryan King]

I read this thread and though this was kinda superfluous too.

Until.. I was driving home this weekend and threw a belt. Changing it on that side street sucked!

I'm getting this today.

I installed one 2 weeks ago for this exact purpose. Changing one on the side of the road is now absolute cake.

[Jeff K]

I went to mcmaster.com and none of these part numbers can be found.

Does anyone have their sku numbers? Thanks!

159915K273 PTFE-Lined Stainless Steel Ball Joint Rod End, 5/16"-24 Right-Hand Male Shank, 5/16" Ball ID, 1-1/4"
12.14
259915K232 PTFE-Lined Stainless Steel Ball Joint Rod End, 5/16"-24 Left-Hand Male Shank, 5/16" Ball ID, 1-1/4"
12.14
3419K81 2Easy-Adjust Threaded Connecting Rod, 2" Overall Length, 5/16"-24 Threaded Female Ends
15.78
194450A240 18-8 Stainless Steel Left-Hand Threaded Thin Hex Nut, 5/16"-24 Thread Size, 1/2" Width, 3/16" Height
Per Pack 4.20
294805A213 Type 316 Stainless Steel Thin Hex Nut, 5/16"-24 Thread Size, 1/2" Width, 3/16" Height, Packs of 25
Per Pack 5.35

[Farrar]

For some reason, those have extra digits in the numbers.

Here's a breakdown of my last order from McMaster:

59915K273
59915K232
8419K12
94450A240
94805A213

I hope that helps!

[Jeff K]

For some reason, those have extra digits in the numbers.

Here's a breakdown of my last order from McMaster:

59915K273
59915K232
8419K12
94450A240
94805A213

I hope that helps!

Thanks!! I just ordered it.

[1batt4u]

Which is the correct part from Summit racing?

[Kenny_Z]

I don't think summit sells just that part and if they did it would be much more expensive than the do-it-yourself part numbers above.

[1batt4u]

I meant the kit, the ready kit that they sell. Anyone know the part # for it?

[1batt4u]

I meant the kit, the ready kit that they sell. Anyone know the part # for it?

Anyone???

[Bitsyncmaster]

I got my parts and installed it. Great idea.

I think you only need one locking nut since all you need to do is stop the center from turning. I was thinking of using a full size nut so it's quicker to lock it down. Now I need to carry two 1/2" open end wrenches but a 13 mm will work if you have to.

[Bitsyncmaster]

It looks like you could pop the bolt off the engine block and put the new bracket on the back side. My alternator with John's small pulley has plenty of room but some other alternator may not. I just saw that engine stud is a bolt when I was draining my coolant.

[Chris 16409]

It looks like you could pop the bolt off the engine block and put the new bracket on the back side. My alternator with John's small pulley has plenty of room but some other alternator may not. I just saw that engine stud is a bolt when I was draining my coolant.

Yeah, I though it was a stud as well. Once I figured out it was a bolt, I opted to replace it with a bit longer one for good measure.

[Domi]

There is a lot of choice on Summit website:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=ADJUSTMENT%20RODS&dds=1
Witch one is the best for the DeLorean?
Thanks :)

[Chris4099]

From post #40 of this thread:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCH-20141/?rtype=10

This is what I ordered and worked fine. The bolt from the adjuster to alternator was a bit too short for me though, but somewhere in here it's mentioned what length you'll need. Working just fine for now. Just note Summit Racing will charge you about $10 in handling fees alone!

[Kenny_Z]

From post #40 of this thread:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCH-20141/?rtype=10

This is what I ordered and worked fine. The bolt from the adjuster to alternator was a bit too short for me though, but somewhere in here it's mentioned what length you'll need. Working just fine for now. Just note Summit Racing will charge you about $10 in handling fees alone!

That's not a tensioner, that's a bolt hole relocation bracket for non-DMC alternators.

I think any of those on that page will work but maybe someone who has a home built one can chime in with the approximate length one should be.

[Chris4099]

Yikes, clearly my brain is shutting down for the day! :-) Here is the part I used:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCH-RA1-625/

I'll reconfirm this evening when I go home and check the receipt.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Order the parts listed from McMaster-Carr. I think you only need one lock nut so that would save you a few bucks. It was a perfect fit on my alternator. Think my order with shipping was about $50

[Ozzie]

For what it's worth, this is what I used: http://www.jegs.com/i/March-Performance/655/RA-1.625/10002/-1
12714
One stop shopping solution.

My installation documented here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?241-What-have-you-done-to-your-DeLorean-today&p=64249&viewfull=1#post64249
Josh Q found this, and he also documented a successful installation with it.

[Chris4099]

Looks like I got mine from Jeg's, not Summit. Not sure if Summit Racing is cheaper on shipping or not, but with Jeg's, it was $47.98 out the door. They also threw in a free ungly yellow hat. :)

[Spittybug]

Looks like I got mine from Jeg's, not Summit. Not sure if Summit Racing is cheaper on shipping or not, but with Jeg's, it was $47.98 out the door. They also threw in a free ungly yellow hat. :)

Damn! I thought I was the only customer privileged to receive that fashionable head gear!!!!!!!!!!!

[Domi]

Thanks for the advice and links guys :thumbup2:

[jackb]

I'd rather bring back this old thread than start a new one on the same subject... I ordered all the parts Farrar posted from Mcmaster-Carr to put the turnbuckle on my alternator, and at it's shortest adjustment, it was still too long to fit. (My alternator is from DMC CA)

I measured the stock bracket while installed, it is approx 3.5" from the center of each of the bolt heads when the belt is at tension.
That is not much, and the turnbuckles I can find are longer than that at the shortest position.
Has anybody used a shorter turnbuckle?

[TTait]

Are you sure you are using the best belt for the application? Maybe you just want the next longer belt? $8 fix at the auto parts store...

[jackb]

It's been a while since I changed the belt, too long to remember the details, but I had gotten it at Advance (or similar, a local parts store. Not from DMC) and it was the correct one according to the computer...
I'll have to pull it off eventually and measure it. What is the correct length of the belt I should be using?

[BladeBronson]

I recently replaced the belts on my engine but just couldn’t get the alternator belt to stop squealing. I bought the Jegs product linked a few pages back and just threw it on tonight. I needed longer bolts since the mounts are thicker than the stock bar. Everything’s nice and clean, the belt is tensioned, and the squealing has stopped.