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QuadcityDMC
03-08-2012, 07:29 PM
Im having problems with my LED Dome relay. 1st off it seems I can never get it out of program mode or parade mode. I would just like to have "normal" dome light opposition. Anyone know how to do that?

2nd thing is have found is back feeding through the dome lights when I push the breaks "sometimes". Is it possible I have a bad diod in my wiring harness?

Bitsyncmaster
03-08-2012, 07:31 PM
Im having problems with my LED Dome relay. 1st off it seems I can never get it out of program mode or parade mode. I would just like to have "normal" dome light opposition. Anyone know how to do that?

2nd thing is have found is back feeding through the dome lights when I push the breaks "sometimes". Is it possible I have a bad diod in my wiring harness?



Put one of those resistors I sent with the unit over the dome light power and ground.

QuadcityDMC
03-09-2012, 08:32 AM
Boy I don't know if I have them, I'll look in my box of stuff. What size resistor do I need? (what color bands?) do go from black to purple or black to purple/white?

Is there a way to bypass the program for parade mode?

Bitsyncmaster
03-09-2012, 08:57 AM
Boy I don't know if I have them, I'll look in my box of stuff. What size resistor do I need? (what color bands?) do go from black to purple or black to purple/white?

Is there a way to bypass the program for parade mode?

It's a 49.9 Kohm 1/8 watt part I sent with the units but most anything at or less than that resistance will work. You can test if it will fix the problem by installing the incandesent bulb. If that fixes it, the resistor should fix it with LEDs.

PM me your address and I will send you some if you can't find one localy.

QuadcityDMC
03-09-2012, 01:58 PM
Thanks,

Can I take the relay out and still have lights work? I re-wired the relay socket when I in stalled the new LED on, I'd like to convert back but still use LEDs.


The problem is the led relay does not keep its program. I'll get it set to car show mode then in a few days it will blink nonstop. Reprogram it back then it does it again.

The dome light back feeding, I never noticed it before with bulbs in only LEDs. I have the new DMCH domlight housings.

Bitsyncmaster
03-09-2012, 03:05 PM
Thanks,

Can I take the relay out and still have lights work? I re-wired the relay socket when I in stalled the new LED on, I'd like to convert back but still use LEDs.


The problem is the led relay does not keep its program. I'll get it set to car show mode then in a few days it will blink nonstop. Reprogram it back then it does it again.

The dome light back feeding, I never noticed it before with bulbs in only LEDs. I have the new DMCH domlight housings.

I think the resistor may cure your problem. I had to add one resistor when I changed from incandesent dome light to LEDs. I had similar problem of not exiting program mode and random entering of program mode.
I think you can remove the unit and jumper two pins to get back to stock but I have not tested it yet.

The resistor (wired over the two LED lugs) just puts a very small load (only when the LED is on) on the signal I monitor. It all depends on how your LED is constructed, LED voltage, how many in a string as to if it will work without the resistor.

jawn101
03-09-2012, 05:11 PM
Dave - I have also noticed that the car will occasionally go into programming mode for no reason. I haven't installed any of the resistors you sent. I am also slightly annoyed by the dim glow from the red rear lamps in the door, so I had been planning to tackle the resistors anyway. So you think installing them will help with the random programming glitch too?

Do you have any pictures of how you installed the resistor? I don't quite get the intended config from your guide. Do I need one per lamp or just one per door?

Bitsyncmaster
03-09-2012, 06:31 PM
Dave - I have also noticed that the car will occasionally go into programming mode for no reason. I haven't installed any of the resistors you sent. I am also slightly annoyed by the dim glow from the red rear lamps in the door, so I had been planning to tackle the resistors anyway. So you think installing them will help with the random programming glitch too?

Do you have any pictures of how you installed the resistor? I don't quite get the intended config from your guide. Do I need one per lamp or just one per door?

Mine is a non-standard dome light but all you need to do is connect the resistor on the terminals that go to the two LED pins. The same goes for one door light to eliminate the faint glow when it goes into battery save mode. You would need to do one door light in each door. Adding to the door light, just pull one housing out and strip a little insulation off the two wires, wrap the resistor wire to each light wire, solder it and tape over it to keep it insulated. The dome light you can solder it so it will not interfere with the switch action of the dome light.

I'm 95% sure the dome light resistor will cure your problems.

QuadcityDMC
03-09-2012, 07:27 PM
Can I get one or two of those:eek1:

I got mine back to mode I and it's holding. No dim while driving tonight.

jawn101
03-09-2012, 07:45 PM
Mine is a non-standard dome light but all you need to do is connect the resistor on the terminals that go to the two LED pins. The same goes for one door light to eliminate the faint glow when it goes into battery save mode. You would need to do one door light in each door. Adding to the door light, just pull one housing out and strip a little insulation off the two wires, wrap the resistor wire to each light wire, solder it and tape over it to keep it insulated. The dome light you can solder it so it will not interfere with the switch action of the dome light.

I'm 95% sure the dome light resistor will cure your problems.

Very cool. One or both dome lights? Any action required on the trunk/engine bay courtesy lights?

Bitsyncmaster
03-09-2012, 08:03 PM
Very cool. One or both dome lights? Any action required on the trunk/engine bay courtesy lights?

I only did my front dome light. As long a one of the lights has with the resistor is on that will be all you need. But say both doors are closed and your in battery save mode, than you would need one on the trunk or engine light if that was was on.

Again, in power save mode, all your seeing is 200 ua. of current which is enough to give you a dim glow from LEDs. Adding the resistor will not change any power consumption but will reduce that 200 ua. through the LEDs below the threshold voltage of the LEDs.

On my car with the one resistor on the dome light, I don't see any glow on the door lights when only that door is left open after power save mode is entered.

So I suggest you just do the dome light resistor and then add resistors after testing if you need them.

jawn101
03-09-2012, 09:06 PM
I only did my front dome light. As long a one of the lights has with the resistor is on that will be all you need. But say both doors are closed and your in battery save mode, than you would need one on the trunk or engine light if that was was on.

Again, in power save mode, all your seeing is 200 ua. of current which is enough to give you a dim glow from LEDs. Adding the resistor will not change any power consumption but will reduce that 200 ua. through the LEDs below the threshold voltage of the LEDs.

On my car with the one resistor on the dome light, I don't see any glow on the door lights when only that door is left open after power save mode is entered.

So I suggest you just do the dome light resistor and then add resistors after testing if you need them.

Sounds like a plan :)

QuadcityDMC
03-11-2012, 12:57 PM
Need help, what position is dome light auto position.

My program lasted 1 day again. With all doors closed I open glove box but can not get in to program mode. Open my door and I'm in parade mode.

I'm rechecking my installation from a year ago.

Bitsyncmaster
03-11-2012, 01:27 PM
Need help, what position is dome light auto position.

My program lasted 1 day again. With all doors closed I open glove box but can not get in to program mode. Open my door and I'm in parade mode.

I'm rechecking my installation from a year ago.

Normally back is the auto position but you can stick in or wires differently to make forward auto. Pretty easy to find, close the doors and wait for the dome lights to go out. If they don't go off then it's in on position.

You did say it was working fine with incandescent bulbs?

QuadcityDMC
03-11-2012, 01:50 PM
When I got the car the door light where led and dome where bulbs. The white relay was missing and there was a black relay in its spot. I bought the upgrade relay and placed LEDs in the domes, wired it up and it has been working "good" for the last year, no it seems every other day it loses it's program.

I'm going to try and reprogram again later to day.

Could you reprogram you chip in the relay to just be mode 1?

Thanks for all the help

Bitsyncmaster
03-11-2012, 03:23 PM
When I got the car the door light where led and dome where bulbs. The white relay was missing and there was a black relay in its spot. I bought the upgrade relay and placed LEDs in the domes, wired it up and it has been working "good" for the last year, no it seems every other day it loses it's program.

I'm going to try and reprogram again later to day.

Could you reprogram you chip in the relay to just be mode 1?

Thanks for all the help

I still think putting a resistor on one dome light will fix it. Yes I could make a software change in a unit to keep it on mode 1 but after it's sealed up it could not be changed again. If you need some resistors, I can send you some in mail.

Bitsyncmaster
06-23-2012, 08:26 AM
Instruction change.

note: the new caution statement. I want to keep supplying these units so please verify your circuit is fused.

3) Now to get power to the module and interrupt the dome light power you install the new red wire with the crimped terminal into the white socket pin #87a. Install the new blue wire with the crimped terminal into the white socket pin #85. Tie wrap these new wires into the harness under the sockets to prevent pulling the wires too short for the next step. Route these new wires along the existing wire bundle and exit out the right side of the fuse block. Cut the purple wire in the large bundle on the right side of the fuse block (this wire comes from fuse #12). Note that there are some other purple wires in this area (see Figure 4.), confirm by a minor tug, that the purple wire you are about to cut goes to fuse #12. Attach the new red wire to the cut purple wire that goes to the fuse. Attach the new blue wire to the cut purple wire that goes into the large bundle on the right side of the fuse block.

Caution:
If you connect to the wrong purple wire you will blow the dome unit. I can tell you have done this when I ask for your unit to be returned. I will not warranty the unit for this failure. As a precaution, you can test you have wired correctly by short circuit the pin 87a to ground and it should blow fuse #12.