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Ron
06-11-2011, 12:03 AM
973

TTait
07-28-2011, 01:47 AM
OK, lets see if I understand what I'm seeing in section 4.2

Is this saying that if, for example, the ambient temperature is 100 degrees F, that the optimum high side pressure is 124 PSI? Seems high.

Bitsyncmaster
07-28-2011, 06:30 AM
OK, lets see if I understand what I'm seeing in section 4.2

Is this saying that if, for example, the ambient temperature is 100 degrees F, that the optimum high side pressure is 124 PSI? Seems high.

No. That chart show the static pressure of liquid R134a without the compressor running.

I would expect the high side pressure with it running at 100 deg F to be 200 to 300 PSI but there are many variables that change the high side pressure.

Henrik
09-29-2011, 02:32 PM
I am a former Application Engineer and Lab Manager with Sanden. After extensive testing with R134as retrofitted AC systems on test benches, in wind tunnels and on-the-road testing way back in 1990 - 1992 I presented Sanden's findings in a Society of Automotive Engineering paper in Detriot the following year. That's when R-12 to R134a retrofitting was a glowing hot topic.

Section 4.2 is a "bottomline" summary of that study so I am intricatally familiar with this topic and I will be happy to answer any related questions anyone may have.

BTW, I converted #1283 to R134a four years ago. For the compressor I used a drop-in Sanden SD7H15 replacement for the OEM R-12 SD-510. No bracket or hose connection mods were needed.

Bitsyncmaster
09-29-2011, 03:11 PM
I am a former Application Engineer and Lab Manager with Sanden. After extensive testing with R134as retrofitted AC systems on test benches, in wind tunnels and on-the-road testing way back in 1990 - 1992 I presented Sanden's findings in a Society of Automotive Engineering paper in Detriot the following year. That's when R-12 to R134a retrofitting was a glowing hot topic.

Section 4.2 is a "bottomline" summary of that study so I am intricatally familiar with this topic and I will be happy to answer any related questions anyone may have.

BTW, I converted #1283 to R134a four years ago. For the compressor I used a drop-in Sanden SD7H15 replacement for the OEM R-12 SD-510. No bracket or hose connection mods were needed.

Great. Glad to have you aboard. I installed the SD5H14 on my car. I know this has less capacity then your SD7H15 but it seems to cool my car fine.

What are your thoughts on the VOV orifice? I was running one but went back to the standard orifice and it seemed to work better then the VOV.

Henrik
09-29-2011, 05:58 PM
Yes, the SD5H14 is slightly smaller in displacement but if you use a smaller clutch then it will turn faster. The 7H does have a slightly better volumetric efficiency but they are both fully capable of cooling well in a D. I like the 7H because it is newer design and is quieter (7 cylinders instead of 5, helical internal gears instead of straight) etc. And, the 7H is made in Wylie, TX. Last I heard the 5H production line was sold off to some company in Asia....

The variable orifice is something that came along after I left the industry. It is supposed to provide better cooling at idle. I have one installed in my D but I really have no frame of reference to compare to my old (and not so well colling) R-12 system.

Henrik
04-01-2013, 09:56 PM
The Delorean stock compressor is an SD-510Q8494 where :
- the 5 designates 5 cylinders
- the 10 stands for 10 cu in displacement per revolution
- Q is the type of cylinder head
- 8494 defines the combination of mounting, clutch size, offset, oil amount etc.
- this compressor used to be made at Sanden's old plant in Dallas, TX but is no longer in production (mostly because it was unable to withstand the higher pressures and loads/less efficient lubrication associated with R134a)

A perfect R134a drop-in replacement would be the Sanden SD7H15QC4708:
- the 7 designates 7 cylinders
- 15 stands for 155 cc displacement per revolution (about 9.5 cu in)
- this is a quieter, more durable compressor, specifically for R134a
- this compressor is produced in Wylie, TX
- I use this compressor on my D.

See attached drawings for both.

Henrik
former Application Engineer and Lab Manager at Sanden
17829 17830

jmettee
07-26-2013, 08:38 AM
Is there a guideline for how much oil to ad for R12 into the SD-510 (stock) compressor after servicing the unit? All of the instructions say to run the compressor at certain RPM before evacuating the system & removing/draining the compressor. What if the system is non-operational & you can't run the compressor prior to draining it?

Is there a straight-forward "drain well & put X ounces of oil in" procedure?

Bitsyncmaster
07-26-2013, 09:13 AM
Is there a guideline for how much oil to ad for R12 into the SD-510 (stock) compressor after servicing the unit? All of the instructions say to run the compressor at certain RPM before evacuating the system & removing/draining the compressor. What if the system is non-operational & you can't run the compressor prior to draining it?

Is there a straight-forward "drain well & put X ounces of oil in" procedure?

You run it so each componet holds the amount of oil it will hold normaly. If it had been running good and you only changed one componet then add that amount (shown in the document) for that component.

Best to use the dip stick check but that is only after it has been running so you would need to evac and refill.

Ron
07-26-2013, 11:54 AM
You run it so each componet holds the amount of oil it will hold normaly. If it had been running good and you only changed one componet then add that amount (shown in the document) for that component.

Best to use the dip stick check but that is only after it has been running so you would need to evac and refill.
+1

If you don't know how much you took out of it and are not the one to charge it last, that is exactly what I would suggest to do.

jmettee
07-26-2013, 02:33 PM
Where do I get a dipstick from? Manual shows something like a separate tool & not integral to the pump cap (like a normal engine oil dipstick).

Ron
07-26-2013, 03:05 PM
I thought someone posted how to make one, but I can't find it (maybe back on .com).

There is a drawing with dimensions in the PDF (1st post).

Google "Sanden 530-865" ~$8.00

Henrik
07-26-2013, 03:49 PM
Correct - page 13 of the pdf link in the first thread talks about the oil requirements, as well as a sketch of a dip stick. Truth be told though, during my 11 years at Sanden we never used any of these dipsticks in the labs. Just drain the old compressor and make sure you have the same amount in the new compressor before you install it. Also, our Ds use an orifice tube system: Any excess oil is going to get trapped in the accumulator (cold temp, refrig in vapor state) without hurting anything so if I were you, add an extra ounce or two in addition to what you got out of the old compressor.

We did a bunch of cost reduction testing for heavy truck customers, like Peterbilt, in the wind tunnel at Sanden for the purpose of finding the least amount of oil their A/C system would require, without jeopardizing durability. These were expansion valve (TXV) systems so the optimum oil amount was somewhat more critical than an orifice system (the "accumulator" on a TXV system (simply called "dryer") is located on the HIGH pressure side where the refrig is in a liquid state so excess oil tends to get washed out and NOT get trapped there). The excess oil would then end up in the evaporator and affect performance.

But again, those were TXV systems. For a Delorean A/C system you can add some extra oil to ensure durability without sacrificing performance.