content22207
04-03-2012, 12:33 AM
Stock DeLorean front suspensions suffer from many design weaknesses:
1) Lower control arms are made from low grade 16 gauge steel (basically the same type and thickness of steel typically reserved for fenders and door skins), making them very rust prone
2) Lower control arms are stamped and folded, creating stress weak points
3) Lower control arms are very narrow, even narrower at the point of pivot, making them very liable to fore/aft movement
4) Lower control arms are only held in alignment by the sway bar (which is not what sway bars are intended to do -- a bit like using a closet rod to hold up the wall of your house). DeLorean sway bars are very flexible in the fore/aft direction, especially given their shape (45 degree angles), which allows significant fore/aft lower control arm movement
5) Lower control arm themselves have very little resistance to torquing and warping. Bends at the bottom of each side only resist misshaping front to rear, not the arm twisting around itself. Boxing the arm in does alleviate this weakness somewhat. Note that the entire arm can not be boxed in without blocking ball joint and shock absorber access -- mostly only the area shock absorber and the pivot bolt can be boxed in (the narrowest part of the arm), plus a little sliver between the shock absorber and the ball joint.
Both of my cars have upgraded and improved front suspensions: Byrne Heninger's lower control arms *AND* Ed Uding's support brackets. To the best of my knowledge only one other owner is running this combo.
Byrne's lower control arms are welded together, not bent and folded. He uses high strength alloy steel, not low carbon steel. Most of the arm is 1/8" thick except for the ball joint pad and the spring perch, which are 1/4" thick.
Ed's support brackets are made from 1/4" thick alloy steel. While they do not transform the lower control arm completely into a lower wishbone, they come pretty damn close (helluva lot closer than the OEM design).
The combined effect is revolutionary. To date, eight other owners have test driven my car, every single one of whom evaluated its upgraded and improved front suspension better than stock. Some of those owners are on this forum and are invited to give their own objective opinion.
Irrespective of improved performance, my upgraded and improved front suspension is much more durable than stock. I do not ever anticipate any sort of failure whatsoever.
1,000 miles after installation:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/377600_267044393340818_100001057778755_815782_5084 50166_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/311305_267046116673979_100001057778755_815787_1268 352523_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/391867_267046526673938_603984250_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/317336_267047046673886_100001057778755_815789_1233 343848_n.jpg
2,000 miles after installation (dirtier, but otherwise unchanged):
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/425913_346599498718640_100001057778755_1036459_118 9650161_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/418535_346599555385301_100001057778755_1036461_181 9817693_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/426418_346599945385262_100001057778755_1036468_156 7700757_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/430455_346599418718648_100001057778755_1036458_335 141433_n.jpg
Some naysayers in other forums have claimed that my upgraded and improved front suspension is going to rip the swaybar off the crumple extension -- palpable nonsense. The sway bar is incredibly bendy fore/aft (see original design weakness 4 above). If you have any doubt how bendy the sway bar is, take yours off your car and flex it. Nevertheless, I have turned my bushings around backwards so the swaybar presses into an empty space rather than into solid rubber:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/430455_346599418718648_100001057778755_1036458_335 141433_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/375011_267060150005909_100001057778755_815811_2047 237322_n.jpg
Six months later the sway bar mounts have yet to rip themselves off the crumple extension:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/431704_346599712051952_100001057778755_1036464_226 120052_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/420057_346599788718611_100001057778755_1036465_639 163264_n.jpg
Ed's brackets are usually butted against the shock towers themselves (pivot bolt tube weld beads nestle inside his bushings). This makes them rather squeaky. It also tears up the finish if you've repainted your towers. I butted my brackets instead against C40 hardened steel washers:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/377906_271475429564381_100001057778755_832165_9072 30671_n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/392677_267049146673676_100001057778755_815795_1925 875578_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/308894_267052680006656_100001057778755_815798_1606 75223_n.jpg
Because the washers rotate while the bushings stay still, they are totally silent. The washers are made of hardened steel, so the pivot bolt tubes will not eat into them as they rotate.
If you look closely you will also notice that I overlaid the outer lip of Ed's bushings with stainless fender washers. Ed supplies inset washers that will prevent the bolt from pulling through the bushing, but not the bushing itself from pulling through the bracket (only the bushing lip prevents that). This is what the original design looks like without fender washers (Luke Sandel's car -- the only other owner I know of running both Byrne's arms and Ed's brackets):
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/390244_271883462856911_100001057778755_833296_1741 82591_n.jpg
I also substituted Grade 8 bolts for the Grade 5 bolts supplied with Ed's brackets (I needed longer bolts anyway to accommodate the hardened steel washers mentioned above).
Anyway, that's what $1,000 will buy you: a bullet proof front suspension that revolutionizes handling and performance.
Quote from an owner who test drove my car at DMA FFT'11: "It feels like a modern car now."
Bill Robertson
#5939
1) Lower control arms are made from low grade 16 gauge steel (basically the same type and thickness of steel typically reserved for fenders and door skins), making them very rust prone
2) Lower control arms are stamped and folded, creating stress weak points
3) Lower control arms are very narrow, even narrower at the point of pivot, making them very liable to fore/aft movement
4) Lower control arms are only held in alignment by the sway bar (which is not what sway bars are intended to do -- a bit like using a closet rod to hold up the wall of your house). DeLorean sway bars are very flexible in the fore/aft direction, especially given their shape (45 degree angles), which allows significant fore/aft lower control arm movement
5) Lower control arm themselves have very little resistance to torquing and warping. Bends at the bottom of each side only resist misshaping front to rear, not the arm twisting around itself. Boxing the arm in does alleviate this weakness somewhat. Note that the entire arm can not be boxed in without blocking ball joint and shock absorber access -- mostly only the area shock absorber and the pivot bolt can be boxed in (the narrowest part of the arm), plus a little sliver between the shock absorber and the ball joint.
Both of my cars have upgraded and improved front suspensions: Byrne Heninger's lower control arms *AND* Ed Uding's support brackets. To the best of my knowledge only one other owner is running this combo.
Byrne's lower control arms are welded together, not bent and folded. He uses high strength alloy steel, not low carbon steel. Most of the arm is 1/8" thick except for the ball joint pad and the spring perch, which are 1/4" thick.
Ed's support brackets are made from 1/4" thick alloy steel. While they do not transform the lower control arm completely into a lower wishbone, they come pretty damn close (helluva lot closer than the OEM design).
The combined effect is revolutionary. To date, eight other owners have test driven my car, every single one of whom evaluated its upgraded and improved front suspension better than stock. Some of those owners are on this forum and are invited to give their own objective opinion.
Irrespective of improved performance, my upgraded and improved front suspension is much more durable than stock. I do not ever anticipate any sort of failure whatsoever.
1,000 miles after installation:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/377600_267044393340818_100001057778755_815782_5084 50166_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/311305_267046116673979_100001057778755_815787_1268 352523_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/391867_267046526673938_603984250_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/317336_267047046673886_100001057778755_815789_1233 343848_n.jpg
2,000 miles after installation (dirtier, but otherwise unchanged):
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/425913_346599498718640_100001057778755_1036459_118 9650161_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/418535_346599555385301_100001057778755_1036461_181 9817693_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/426418_346599945385262_100001057778755_1036468_156 7700757_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/430455_346599418718648_100001057778755_1036458_335 141433_n.jpg
Some naysayers in other forums have claimed that my upgraded and improved front suspension is going to rip the swaybar off the crumple extension -- palpable nonsense. The sway bar is incredibly bendy fore/aft (see original design weakness 4 above). If you have any doubt how bendy the sway bar is, take yours off your car and flex it. Nevertheless, I have turned my bushings around backwards so the swaybar presses into an empty space rather than into solid rubber:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/430455_346599418718648_100001057778755_1036458_335 141433_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/375011_267060150005909_100001057778755_815811_2047 237322_n.jpg
Six months later the sway bar mounts have yet to rip themselves off the crumple extension:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/431704_346599712051952_100001057778755_1036464_226 120052_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/420057_346599788718611_100001057778755_1036465_639 163264_n.jpg
Ed's brackets are usually butted against the shock towers themselves (pivot bolt tube weld beads nestle inside his bushings). This makes them rather squeaky. It also tears up the finish if you've repainted your towers. I butted my brackets instead against C40 hardened steel washers:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/377906_271475429564381_100001057778755_832165_9072 30671_n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/392677_267049146673676_100001057778755_815795_1925 875578_n.jpg
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/308894_267052680006656_100001057778755_815798_1606 75223_n.jpg
Because the washers rotate while the bushings stay still, they are totally silent. The washers are made of hardened steel, so the pivot bolt tubes will not eat into them as they rotate.
If you look closely you will also notice that I overlaid the outer lip of Ed's bushings with stainless fender washers. Ed supplies inset washers that will prevent the bolt from pulling through the bushing, but not the bushing itself from pulling through the bracket (only the bushing lip prevents that). This is what the original design looks like without fender washers (Luke Sandel's car -- the only other owner I know of running both Byrne's arms and Ed's brackets):
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/390244_271883462856911_100001057778755_833296_1741 82591_n.jpg
I also substituted Grade 8 bolts for the Grade 5 bolts supplied with Ed's brackets (I needed longer bolts anyway to accommodate the hardened steel washers mentioned above).
Anyway, that's what $1,000 will buy you: a bullet proof front suspension that revolutionizes handling and performance.
Quote from an owner who test drove my car at DMA FFT'11: "It feels like a modern car now."
Bill Robertson
#5939