How To: Install Cruise Control

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I searched and haven't found a how-to on dmctalk.org and I know there was one on dmctalk.com so I thought I would share my venture into adding cruise control into a (5-speed) Delorean.

I searched the internet and found the following parts that are needed to complete the installation. The website I found the best deal (no tax/out-of-state and combined shipping) is below; but feel free to do your own research:

http://www.audiovideo4me.com/

Below are the part numbers and prices for this particular setup:

250-1223 Rostra Universal Electronic Cruise/Speed Control Computer $179.99
http://www.audiovideo4me.com/v/vspfiles/photos/250-1223-2T.jpg

250-3742 Rostra Left Hand Mount Cruise Control Stalk Switch $46.95
http://www.audiovideo4me.com/v/vspfiles/photos/250-3742-2T.jpg

250-4165 Rostra VSS Speed Pulse Generator Magnet Kit $41.99
http://www.audiovideo4me.com/v/vspfiles/photos/250-4165-2T.jpg

250-4206 Rostra Clutch Disengagement Switch $43.90
http://www.audiovideo4me.com/v/vspfiles/photos/250-4206-2T.jpg

$327.03 was the grand total shipped and I received them within 2-3 business days to Ohio.

These kits no longer use engine vacuum compared to older models.

Also, you can select other styles of switches such as some examples below:
http://www.audiovideo4me.com/v/vspfiles/photos/250-3446-2T.jpg
http://www.audiovideo4me.com/v/vspfiles/photos/CCS100%20switch-2T.jpg
http://www.audiovideo4me.com/v/vspfiles/photos/250-3592-2T.jpg

Ok, so now I have the parts, where do they go? That will be starting on the next post!
Stay tuned!

[DeloreanJoshQ]

OK, so the switch is now installed.

I removed the lower canopy (remove the center screw towards the front and the two machine screws at the rear) and drilled a 3/8 hole in the side for the switch to slide through. It has a slanted collar that will adjust the angle which is very nice. I then carefully tightned the nut on the inside so the stalk wouldn't move, yet wouldn't crack the plastic lower housing.

Caution, be sure you have enough clearance between the ignition switch inside the canopy and the cruise control stalk and wiring before drilling the hole.

I am able to see the cruise control buttons through the steering wheel and without the turn signal lever being in the way, so keep that in mind....

For now, I ran the wiring out of the back of the lower panel and towards the center console and secured it so it wouldn't get in the way if I drove the car with it unfinished...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/479110_10151480098030696_671145695_23658082_182670 6320_o.jpg

This is all I will do with this component for now....on to the next part, stay tuned!!

[Raphael]

Hi
Here is my own "how-to" : http://delorean.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?p=28831#28831
it's in French but I hope pictures speak by themselves, or you can google-translate.

[vwdmc16]

Im eager to see the rest. I recently installed one of these Rosta kits in my girlfriend's 01 corolla which is easier that a delorean install as its rear engined and doesnt have a VSS sensor installed.


Im stlll debating on installing this 1984 vintage cruise kit in my D, not sure if I trust it.

[Farrar]

Hi
Here is my own "how-to" : http://delorean.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?p=28831#28831
it's in French but I hope pictures speak by themselves, or you can google-translate.

Gorgeous!

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Below is how I installed the clutch disengagement switch:

The first step is to mount the contact plate. It must be at least 2" from the pivot point of the clutch pedal. The screws are installed with the heads facing the center console so that they will clear the clutch linkage(it is a very close fit). All the screws do is wedge the contact plate to the pedal and go through the nuts on the other side of the plate, so make sure they are good and tight; test to make sure the plate can't wiggle at all.
Be sure to move the pedal in and out as you plan and fabricate to make sure the brackets and linkage clear each other.

I modified the switch mounting bracket as seen in the photo so that the switch would line up with the contact plate. I drilled two holes into the pedal box and the bracket lined up perfectly, with only bending needed on the bracket (I cut the "L" part off first) and secured it with two 8mm bolts, washers, and nuts...

Then it's just a matter of testing the pedal to switch contact by bending the bracket until the switch is fully depressed when the clutch pedal is released. It is normal if the switch bracket moves a little bit when you release the clutch pedal as long as the switch fully closes...

For now, I just positioned and tightened the switch so that the wiring points up and is tucked out of the way of the feet.

Of course, double-check everything to make sure nothing gets tangled or causes danger while attempting to drive the car...


https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/577376_10151489068010696_671145695_23691688_157400 6809_n.jpg

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Hi
Here is my own "how-to" : http://delorean.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?p=28831#28831
it's in French but I hope pictures speak by themselves, or you can google-translate.

I found this, thank you very much! I was wondering how you mounted your clutch disengagement switch and how it functions? I can't quite figure it out from the picture.

Also, have you ever had the throttle cable pop out of the spool while using cruise control with your design?

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Below is how I installed the Pulse Generator/ Vehicle Speed Sensor using Raphael's idea (Thanks!!)

I cut down and modified the bracket that came with the sensor so that it would bolt to the transmission using the existing bolt that holds the seal retainer behind the output shaft connection of the transmission.
Then, line up 2 magnets 180 degrees apart. There are 6 bolts holding the driveshaft in place so you can put one magnet between two of them and the other inbetween the opposite two bolts. They will stick the the area that they belong to. Then use the plastic ziptie that comes with the kit to hold them in place. Make sure it is tight so the magnets don't move (test it out).

Then bend and twist the bracket until the head of the bolt that secures the sensor to the bracket is 1" (give or take 1/4" says the instructions) from each magnet.

Finally, route your wiring so that there is no way they will get tangled, melt, or get damaged in any way; especially with the car on the ground. I secured mine to an A/C hose and had the wiring go up into the driver corner of the engine bay.
For now, I tied up the rest of the wiring so I could still drive the car and until I have more time to finish the cruise control installation.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/415570_10151494131315696_671145695_23716760_761213 317_o.jpg

[Raphael]

I found this, thank you very much! I was wondering how you mounted your clutch disengagement switch and how it functions? I can't quite figure it out from the picture.

Also, have you ever had the throttle cable pop out of the spool while using cruise control with your design?
I used the existing stop-bolt on the clutch pedal pivot, with a short bracket. see pic below; just right of the pedal itself. it works fine, just touch the pedal and it disengages without shifting or braking.
the switch is wired serial with the brake switch, as recommended in the instructions, very simple. I remember you have to tweak the little switches on the ECU to make it work properly.
For the throttle spool, it happens if the cable is twisted (it gets a memory if it was installed with an effort); to fix it, loosen the retaining bolt, move the spool so the cable moves out, twist the cable so it runs parallel to the groove, then tighten the bolt.
It happened to me at first, but it never happened since, just carefully install the cable on the retaining bolt.

I installed this setup years ago and it functions perfectly and never failed. it's as smooth and intuitive as any modern car.
and I love the idea of having everything concealed. except for the cable on the spool and the stock looking +/- button on the console, you can't see anything

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Below is a pic of the cruise control cable to spool install on 03307. Dave Bauerle helped me out.

It basically follows Raphael's design from his weblink. I used the bracket that came with the kit and cut and bent it to hold the cable housing stationary and parallel to the spool. I also used the threaded flag retainer that came in the kit (screw it on the end of the cable housing) and attached it to the bracket. The steel cable with a loop in it and a bead chain connection was used. Remove the retaining bolt that holds the stock throttle cable in place and slide the loop underneath and through the bolt, then tighten it all back down. For good measure a small hole was drilled on the side tab of the spool and a cotter pin installed to keep the cruise control cable from popping out.
However, thanks to Toby Peterson's observation, you can't put a cotter pin on the throttle cable side of the spool. Due to geometry, as the spool turns clockwise and the cable tightens, the cotterpin gets in the way of the cable and prevents it from pulling the throttle all the way open. So I removed the cotterpin(although still shown in the below picture) and it works fine.
There are different amounts of bead chain lenght that you can use to make it work (Raphael's is shorter than mine) so you will have to experiment to get the right setting.

***There is always the risk that the cable could possibly pop out. I will do a follow-up post on here after some extensive research to report my findings and experience****.
If you follow these guidelines remember you are responsible and assume the risk.

Double-check to make sure that everything works smoothly and that nothing is in the way of the throttle spool(ex bleeder kit) operation.
That is basically it for this part.



https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/463451_10151501348515696_671145695_23741871_160028 148_o.jpg

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Below is a photo of the Cruise Control Computer install and final engine bay photo.

I again followed Raphael's idea(Thanks!!) of hiding it in the driverside cubby hole in the rear pontoon. I used the bracket that came with it and also bent the bracket so that it moved the cruise control computer up off of the floor of the pontoon in case of pooling water during rain or car wash. If you plan carefully, there is plenty of room for the antenna, charcoal canister, and cruise control computer to all fit in the area.

The short ground wire off of the computer box I connected to the rear quarter panel where the power antenna grounds. The cruise control cable sneaks through an existing hole where the lower engine cover release cable slides through.
I did drill a small hole to run the wiring from the pulse generator/vehicle speed sensor directly above the hole that a vacuum line runs through to the vacuum canister.
The rest of the wiring all will go through the hole that the lower engine cover release cable goes through in the bulkhead and into the passenger compartment. It helps to disconnect the harness connectors when you do this to shorten and lessen the wiring mess...
From here, you need to decide on your own how you want to hook the wiring up.

-A good ground for the wiring harness is above the fuse box on the rear bulkhead. Its also a good idea to clean that connection while you are there to keep your ground for the vehicle good.
-You pick a good +12V switched source; I chose the rear defrost/power mirror circuit.
-I had to modify and lengthen the wiring harness somewhat so that it would run through the center console and reach the cruise control and clutch disengagement switches.
-Follow the instructions on wiring the clutch disengagement switch to the brake light switch.
*If you have LED Brake lights, you will need to add a relay to make cruise control work, it's in the instructions*

That is pretty much it for the wiring.

Now, for the settings for gain(sensitivity) and delay(from pushing the button on switch to cruise cable holding speed). There are little switches you take a small screw driver to "flip" inside the cruise control computer box behind the rubber weather-tight seal.

The manual tells you recommended start settings; I did that and it did not work. I ended up having to do the highest setting for each to work correctly.
***If you follow these guidelines you are responsible for your own actions, take care when experimenting and setting the cruise control***

And now I have cruise control. If you have any more questions, please ask. The sooner, the better, while memory is still fresh!

Josh Q

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/456293_10151517228920696_671145695_23753680_974648 184_o.jpg

Even Delorean "experts" would have a hard time telling that there is cruise control installed. That is how I like this set up. Thanks again Raphael!!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/456671_10151517318645696_671145695_23753816_899776 282_o.jpg

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I thought I would add an update on this upgrade/modification. I have now driven round-trip from Columbus, OH to Indianapolis, IN and from Columbus, OH to Nashville, TN as well as several hour drives and local cruising (over 2000 miles in total) while using cruise control and have had no problems what-so-ever; works like a charm!

However, I will share HOW I use the cruise control to minimize any possibilities of problems with the throttle cable/spool that people have shared concern with:

I use the cruise control function normally, like any other car except for the accelerate/resume function. If I increase MPH up to a certain speed I want to set cruise control at, I use my foot and not the switch. I have been successful at bumping up the speed several MPH when fine-tuning with the switch, but anything beyond that I use my foot first and then set the speed as a precaution.
The reason for this is that if you have the CC increase the speed (by pulling the throttle cable) more than a small amount without touching the gas pedal, it will begin to cause the cable to "loop" out of the spool and in extreme cases could pop out of the spool. Reducing speed via CC should cause no issues, just accelerating.

Anyhow I hope this helps for future CC installers; it has definately made long mundane trips much more enjoyable...

*Again, remember to use care and take responsibility for your own actions and decisions when doing this modification*

Josh Q

[sdg3205]

The reason for this is that if you have the CC increase the speed (by pulling the throttle cable) more than a small amount without touching the gas pedal, it will begin to cause the cable to "loop" out of the spool and in extreme cases could pop out of the spool. Reducing speed via CC should cause no issues, just accelerating.

Josh Q

Seems quite common on our throttle set up. Often when I manually manipulate the spool the cable will come off track and result in a high idle. Not the worst thing ever on a 5 speed but could be dangerous on an Auto.

[DMC5180]

He has the cotter pin in the spool to prevent it from popping out. The down side of the pin setup is that you now limits full throttle travel (Cable Misalignment). Have someone push the pedal to the floor and observe what happens to the cable.

[Nicholas R]

Interesting, I never really thought about this being a problem. I used to have the Audiovox C-100 system on my automatic and never had any issues using it to accelerate. I could always feel the gas pedal going down by itself when the cruise engaged so maybe the cable was smooth enough that the weight of the pedal kept it tight enough.

Once the LS1 was in I hooked the same system back up. Boy does it do a much better job of holding the speed steady. I'm sure it's partly because of the more powerful engine, however I think a bigger contributing factor is that the car is now a manual. The slippage in the automatic would really mess with that system trying to speed up the car. Speed could drop as much as 7mph before you'd really feel it accelerating again. Now I rarely see it drop 2-3mph less than what I set at.

Conveniently, the LS1's throttle bracket already had a second slot for cruise control. I still wish this system had a clutch cutoff switch though. I hate that you can push the clutch in and the cruise will just keep driving the RPMs up.

[dmc6960]

What about removing the return spring on the throttle pedal itself, and putting a *very* light one actually pulling it down? That way, when the CC controls the throttle, the pedal and cable follow. Thus it does not pop out of the channel.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

He has the cotter pin in the spool to prevent it from popping out. The down side of the pin setup is that you now limits full throttle travel (Cable Misalignment). Have someone push the pedal to the floor and observe what happens to the cable.

I removed that pin because I wanted 100% travel.

[DMC5180]

Interesting, I never really thought about this being a problem. I used to have the Audiovox C-100 system on my automatic and never had any issues using it to accelerate. I could always feel the gas pedal going down by itself when the cruise engaged so maybe the cable was smooth enough that the weight of the pedal kept it tight enough.

Once the LS1 was in I hooked the same system back up. Boy does it do a much better job of holding the speed steady. I'm sure it's partly because of the more powerful engine, however I think a bigger contributing factor is that the car is now a manual. The slippage in the automatic would really mess with that system trying to speed up the car. Speed could drop as much as 7mph before you'd really feel it accelerating again. Now I rarely see it drop 2-3mph less than what I set at.

Conveniently, the LS1's throttle bracket already had a second slot for cruise control. I still wish this system had a clutch cutoff switch though. I hate that you can push the clutch in and the cruise will just keep driving the RPMs up.

LS1 ? Post a couple pictures please or a link to thread with them.

[Nicholas R]

LS1 ? Post a couple pictures please or a link to thread with them.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3854-Spent-the-last-4-months-putting-a-Chevy-LS1-engine-into-my-DeLorean-now-it-runs!

http://ls1delorean.blogspot.com

[FABombjoy]

What about removing the return spring on the throttle pedal itself
Unhooking the accelerator pedal spring is what I did on my CC setup. No issues yet, and the weight of the pedal keeps the cable properly in groove at all times.

[dmc6960]

Unhooking the accelerator pedal spring is what I did on my CC setup. No issues yet, and the weight of the pedal keeps the cable properly in groove at all times.

Thats great to know!

On an otherwise stock engine, there are 4 springs in the throttle system, all working against your foot. One on the pedal, TWO on the spool (one external, and one underneith), then finally the one on the throttles themselves. You may need to make sure everything glides really freely, but removing one spring should not affect the system.

[Nicholas R]

Thats great to know!

On an otherwise stock engine, there are 4 springs in the throttle system, all working against your foot. One on the pedal, TWO on the spool (one external, and one underneith), then finally the one on the throttles themselves. You may need to make sure everything glides really freely, but removing one spring should not affect the system.

There may be 4 springs, but only one really affects the throttle cable. That spring is on the pedal. The issue is keeping the throttle cable tight. The 3 springs push the opposite direction of the one on the pedal. The one on the pedal pushes the cable toward the spool where the 3 at the throttle push the cable toward the pedal. If you remove the one at the pedal, the ones at the throttle wont be fighting against anything, and theoretically, the cable wont fall off the spool.

Still, I'd be a little skeptical about not having a pedal return spring. Though I doubt the weight of the pedal is enough to overcome the 3 springs at the throttle.

[FABombjoy]

I had my cable jump twice on me while using my CC, but never again after unhooking the pedal spring. You could probably add some weight to the pedal if you wanted, just to be sure that it keeps the cable taut. You could also pull & relube the cable just to be extra sure (I did).

[Farrar]

In the move, I came across the instruction manual for the AudioVox CCS100 cruise control unit. Would it be helpful to anyone if I posted them here?

[Nicholas R]

In the move, I came across the instruction manual for the AudioVox CCS100 cruise control unit. Would it be helpful to anyone if I posted them here?

If it's a PDF it'd be nice. If it's a hardcopy dont worry about scanning it. The manual is available on line if you google it. I had to 2 weeks ago to get the dip switch settings.

[Farrar]

If it's a PDF it'd be nice. If it's a hardcopy dont worry about scanning it. The manual is available on line if you google it. I had to 2 weeks ago to get the dip switch settings.

Yeah, I'd have to scan it in. Hadn't thought to look for it online. Okay, then. :)