tie down points

[marcel]

I'm planning on trailering my D this weekend. It's going in an enclosed car hauler. The back tie down hook locations look obvious. Where is the best tie down for the front? I dont see any hooks up front.

[jmettee]

There are 2 somewhat weak hooks on the front crumple extension, unless they've been cut off. They are at the same general location as where the lower control arm attaches to the frame.

You should secure the car by the lower control arms as these are a weak point. however, if you have no tiedown hooks on your car anymore, you may have to use them. If this is the case, do not use chain, but use straps, & only apply a light load....do not crank down tight on them. I don't know of any other suitable area to use as a tiedown up front.

[Dangermouse]

You should secure the car by the lower control arms as these are a weak point. however, if you have no tiedown hooks on your car anymore, you may have to use them. If this is the case, do not use chain, but use straps, & only apply a light load....do not crank down tight on them. I don't know of any other suitable area to use as a tiedown up front.

erm, I think you mean

You should not secure the car by the lower control arms as these are a weak point.

[content22207]

#2508 is getting both Byrne's 1/8" steel lower control arms *AND* Ed's 1/4" steel outriggers:
1146
(Please overlook the shock towers. That pic is half a year old -- the entire front end was restripped and is lying underneath 2 quarts of brushed Rustoleum now).

My plan is to carry two short come alongs under the spare tire specifically so the LCA's can be used to pull the car if ever necessary (the original tow hooks were mangled by the PO).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[jmettee]

erm, I think you mean

You should not secure the car by the lower control arms as these are a weak point.

Exactly. That 1 word I missed was pretty important :eek:

[David T]

On one car I towed the front was so rusted out I couldn't use the front hooks. I didn't want to pull it by the lower control arms so I used straps around the front sway bar to pull it onto the trailer and to secure it down. I also used web straps over the front tires. The rear was in better shape so I was able to use the rear attach points. In general I usually keep the front straps straight but I cross the rear straps so the back can't slide around. On long trips I find it is better to put the car on backwards so that most of the weight is on the tongue but you can only do it with an enclosed trailer or you risk damaging the rear louvers. Towing the car backwards the trailer has less sway when there is more weight on the tongue.
David Teitelbaum

[stevedmc]

#2508 is getting both Byrne's 1/8" steel lower control arms *AND* Ed's 1/4" steel outriggers:
1146


Btw, I installed a set of Byrne's LCAs a few weeks ago and they are great. I talked to him on the phone before placing my order and his welder has corrected whatever problem he was having.

[content22207]

Simply boxing in an OEM lower control arm does not fix one of their weak points: the ball joint end sometimes fatigue breaks and snaps off (you can't box underneath the ball joint). Installing a set of Ed's outriggers to an OEM arm transfers even more stress to the ball joint end.

I can't wait to get #2508 on the road and try out my Bryne/Uding combo. It's about as close to a double wishbone as you can get.

OEM LCA flex:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMHO4Aydk04

Bill Robertson
#5939