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View Full Version : 3.0 PRV Swap Basics/Overview Question



uhhair
05-22-2012, 08:10 PM
Okay, so I will pose this question this way. My bro and I are currently in the market for a 2nd D (see our post in the wanted section if you have any leads on this). One of the things we'd like to attempt down the road is an engine swap, just because it's something we've personally never done before, and there is no better way to learn than to do. However, neither of us are engineers or anyone who is inclined enough mechanically to do a completely custom job, i.e transplant a foreign motor into the Delorean frame. We have done engine work on our current delorean in the past (and plan to do more), but we've been wondering about taking it to the next level so to speak.

From what we've read and gathered, the 3.0 swap is pretty much just plug and play from the standard Delorean PRV. That would make it the perfect transplant candidate for us, as it would be the first one we've ever done. This thread we've created is for anyone who has done this swap previously, or who knows enough about it to speak, to either confirm or disprove this for us.

If we were to swap into a 3.0 PRV in a Delorean, what has to change, and what stays the same, what else needs to be replaced/acquired and what has to be special or built custom to accommodate the swap? Keep in mind, we're not genius mechanical minds here, so keep the responses as understandable as possible for us. Thanks.

opethmike
05-22-2012, 08:49 PM
You'll need to swap the lower casing between the D PRV, and the 3.0 PRV so that you can use the stock motor mounts.

You'll also need to do an EFI + EDIS installation on the 3.0.

If you're looking for performance improvements for the 3.0, Josh has the stuff you'd want.

uhhair
05-23-2012, 12:14 PM
You'll need to swap the lower casing between the D PRV, and the 3.0 PRV so that you can use the stock motor mounts.

You'll also need to do an EFI + EDIS installation on the 3.0.

If you're looking for performance improvements for the 3.0, Josh has the stuff you'd want.

No performance Mods, just stock conversion.

So the lower casing, but I assume it bolts off the old Delorean PRV, and onto the new one without issue?

protodelorean
05-23-2012, 12:51 PM
No performance Mods, just stock conversion.

So the lower casing, but I assume it bolts off the old Delorean PRV, and onto the new one without issue?

It blots on, but must be torqued properly as it is the lower main bearing caps.

The toughest (and most expensive) part of the 3.0 swap is designing and configuring a new fuel/spark management system. I don't know if anyone who has used the original computer so you have to go with something aftermarket. That means YOU are building fuel/spark maps and tuning them. If you're not familiar with EFI, that can be tricky.

Most folks go with the Megasquirt. I used the Electromotive TEC3

uhhair
05-23-2012, 06:31 PM
It blots on, but must be torqued properly as it is the lower main bearing caps.

The toughest (and most expensive) part of the 3.0 swap is designing and configuring a new fuel/spark management system. I don't know if anyone who has used the original computer so you have to go with something aftermarket. That means YOU are building fuel/spark maps and tuning them. If you're not familiar with EFI, that can be tricky.

Most folks go with the Megasquirt. I used the Electromotive TEC3

Well the actual physical components to the fuel system install easy enough, correct? If that's the case, I don't mind playing around with some sort of fuel/spark maps.

However, since I'm just using the stock 3.0, no mods, couldn't I just use the stock computer that goes with the 3.0 engine/fuel system from the eagle/dodge? Maybe that's a dumb question, but I don't know.

nullset
05-23-2012, 07:04 PM
Well the actual physical components to the fuel system install easy enough, correct? If that's the case, I don't mind playing around with some sort of fuel/spark maps.

However, since I'm just using the stock 3.0, no mods, couldn't I just use the stock computer that goes with the 3.0 engine/fuel system from the eagle/dodge? Maybe that's a dumb question, but I don't know.

You can't do this, because in the stock 3.0, the crankshaft position sensor is in the lower crankcase, which you have to change out to swap it into a delorean.

--buddy

nullset
05-23-2012, 07:06 PM
I'm aware of two options for determing the crankshaft position:

- a position sensor where the distributor would normally go (a 36n1 wheel goes here, which is a wheel with 35 teeth, and 1 blank spot, with a sensor)
- a sensor attached to the crankshaft.

Option 1:

Pros:
- Stock exhaust can be used
- Josh can sell you the part, and probably has them on hand
Cons:
- I've been told that this position is less precise than option 2, due to flexibility in the timing chain

Option 2:
Pros:
- Possibly more precise
Cons:
- Harder to put together
- Can't use stock exhaust, as the CPS sits on the back of the engine where the muffler is currently

That's what I know so far.

--buddy

protodelorean
05-23-2012, 07:48 PM
Well the actual physical components to the fuel system install easy enough, correct? If that's the case, I don't mind playing around with some sort of fuel/spark maps.

However, since I'm just using the stock 3.0, no mods, couldn't I just use the stock computer that goes with the 3.0 engine/fuel system from the eagle/dodge? Maybe that's a dumb question, but I don't know.

Sticking with the stock computer was my first plan. I went as far as to prep the wiring harness, modify the Delorean bell housing to mount the crank sensor and modified the Eagle trigger ring to mount to the manual flywheel. I thought I was very careful, but it didn't work. (Obviously I missed something.) This route however is the LEAST supported of all options so that's when I went for the TEC3

10631

justlooking
05-23-2012, 10:10 PM
If you dont plan on using the stock muffler, i have a 3.0L crankshaft pulley with a trigger wheel already mounted, as well as a bracket that mounts the vr sensor in the correct location with respect to the wheel. It would get you past what i believe is the most mechanically challenging part of the whole swap. Pm if interested.

uhhair
05-29-2012, 08:58 PM
Okay so a new question. Has anyone just used the stock 3.0, including the stock lower crank case + computer, and just made custom engine mounts? That seems easier than having to deal with a custom fuel delivery system.

Nicholas R
05-30-2012, 11:50 AM
Wow, I always assumed the 3.0 swap was pretty easy/straightforward as far as swaps were concerned. Looks like I was wrong. Though there were certainly other challanges, I didn't have to worry about any of this fuel stuff with the LS1.

justlooking
06-05-2012, 12:58 PM
Bill Robertson built engine mounts which would have worked for mounting the 3.0L in stock form, but DMCTalk banned him for whatever reason (p.s. i think it was because users couldnt figure out how to use the block posts feature). Try looking him up. He would probably build you a set if you threw him a few bucks.

Fox2506
06-05-2012, 03:50 PM
I've mentioned this before, but 2 years ago I pulled a Volvo 3.0L junkyard engine out of my D. Everything else was still DeLorean though (computer, mounts, fuel dist., etc..). I didn't notice for years because only the block, valves, and valve covers were Volvo. The harness was close to DeLorean style but had the Volvo badge embossed on the connector boots.

My point is that it was hell getting to run well at first. However, just before it died, I had it running pretty well (not sure about the performance though). I guess neither I or the previous owner realized you needed to change fuel/spark application.

That engine went back to the junkyard before I could document it.

Edit: a professional told me it was a 3.0L, so there's a chance it actually wasn't, and that's why it worked. But it definitely had a Volvo tag next to the oil sending unit.

ramblinmike
06-05-2012, 11:56 PM
My harness has Volvo badges all over it.

Nicholas R
06-06-2012, 12:13 AM
Bill Robertson built engine mounts which would have worked for mounting the 3.0L in stock form, but DMCTalk banned him for whatever reason (p.s. i think it was because users couldnt figure out how to use the block posts feature). Try looking him up. He would probably build you a set if you threw him a few bucks.

How different is the mounting of the lower block? It's not that difficult to fabricate different engine mounts. To me, it seems like that's easier than changing the lower block and loosing the crank position sensor.

vwdmc16
06-06-2012, 01:14 AM
Keep in mind you gain that sweet finned aluminum oil pan with the DMC bottom end instead of that ugly pressed steel one on 3.0s

Im thinking I may attempt to retro fit the DMC distributor on to my 3.0. the distributor casting is still there on the the front of the left head but it needs to be drilled out and then I will have to machine the cam shaft end and press on a worm drive gear to drive the distributor shaft.

Has anyone attempted that before?

DCUK Martin
06-06-2012, 07:41 AM
I've mentioned this before, but 2 years ago I pulled a Volvo 3.0L junkyard engine out of my D.

...

Edit: a professional told me it was a 3.0L, so there's a chance it actually wasn't,

Since Volvo never used the 3 litre PRV, it's unlikely. It was used by Renault, Peugeot and Citroen.

-----

I've alwyas said that a PRV engine swap is the easy bit - It can easily be made to bolt right on. The challenge then comes with the management system.

Personally I use the later UN1 bellhousing whose only difference is the provision for a flywheel-based crank angle sensor. The later flywheel incorporates a trigger ring which in true Renault style is a non-standard 66/3 pattern which I modify slightly so it can be read by the Adaptronic engine management unit.

protodelorean
06-06-2012, 11:17 AM
Since Volvo never used the 3 litre PRV, it's unlikely. It was used by Renault, Peugeot and Citroen.

-----

I've alwyas said that a PRV engine swap is the easy bit - It can easily be made to bolt right on. The challenge then comes with the management system.

...

That's what I said back in post 4. :thumbup: Bolting on a Delorean engine cradle is about as easy as it gets. No reason to make that more difficult. (Fabricating custom engine mounts)

DCUK Martin
06-06-2012, 04:20 PM
That's what I said back in post 4. :thumbup:

Indeed you did sir ;)

Mine's an Adaptronic by the way. I haven't had half the fun and games the MS people seem to have had...

http://adaptronic.com.au/