Replacing Rear Power Antenna

[mluder]

Is there a how to on removing and replacing a rear power antenna? I want to leave the existing bracket if possible and just install a new motor and mast.

Steve
#4456

[TTait]

DMCH sells a direct replacement antenna with a black mast. Install is kind of easy...

In the engine compartment, remove the 4 bolts for the carbon canister cover.

Rotate the cover 90 degrees and then pull away with the carbon canister attached.

There are likely 2 nuts holding the bracket to the rear fiberglass bulkhead - remove them and disconnect the wires for power, ground, and extend.

In the passenger compartment remove the parcel carpet and the triangular plywood cover to expose the relay for the antenna. Unplug the antenna wire from the extension wire in this area.

Its probably easier to remove the black metal clips for the cargo net and then remove the vertical board at the rear of the cargo are - I didn't and it can be done, but it would probably be easier and I will next time.

Tie a pull string to the antenna wire, then from the engine compartment pull the antenna wire back through the rear pontoon.

Remove the screw at the base of the bracket and the locking ring for the antenna at the top. Install the new antenna into the bracket.

Use the pull string to pull the new antenna wire through and hook it up. Hook up the remaining 3 wires.

Put the bracket in place and tighten the nuts.

From outside the car make sure your positioning is ok and the antenna will come up thru the opening properly,

Test for proper operation.

Replace the carbon canister and bolt up the cover.

Put the panels and carpeting back in the interior.

Easy overall with moments of frustration possible.

[mluder]

Thanks.

I was hoping to get an antenna locally.. they are about half the cost of DMCH but I would need to use the existing bracket and wanted to leave it in place. I think removing the exisitng bracket requires removing the tail light, correct? I'd like to avoid that if possible. I alwasy end up breaking parts that half to come out in order to get to the ones I intend to work on. Makes the job twice as hard. :bang:

So do you know how the old antenna attaches to the bracket? I could not figure out what is holding it in place.

Steve

[stevedmc]

I am using a Legacy LN46. I believe I bought it on Amazon.com for about $35. If you go the legacy route it is super easy to install. I used the old mount and had no problems at all. You will probably have to remove the rear tail light no matter what antenna you get but don't worry, it is super easy.

[stevedmc]

$30 with free shipping. I know nothing about the company but this is a good price.

http://www.qualitycaraudio.com/store/viewItem.asp?sku=LN46


Edit: I just noticed they are out of stock and I dont see this item on ebay or amazon. Sorry man.

[TTait]

LN46 seems to have disappeared from the face of the earth a few years back - I had one on backorder for about a year before the sale just cancelled.

No, you don't have to remove the tail light, see above...


You remove the mounting bracket along with the antenna. Once you open the access door you will find its just held in place with 2 nuts. You cannot take the old antenna off the bracket until its out of the car.

Remove bracket and antenna together, then use a screwdriver to remove the screw from the bottom and the locking nut at the top - reinstall in reverse order.

[Bruce Johnson]

I put one of these in 5381 back in '07. Still working fine

http://www.mtgparts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=mtg&Product_Code=BA-MX22&Category_Code=ANT

Bruce-1420

[mluder]

$30 with free shipping. I know nothing about the company but this is a good price.

http://www.qualitycaraudio.com/store/viewItem.asp?sku=LN46


Edit: I just noticed they are out of stock and I dont see this item on ebay or amazon. Sorry man.

No worries... I've noticed the Legacy are hard to come by these days. Thanks though.

One of the local auto parts store stocks a couple of power antennas. I'm going to get the old one out and take it with me to match best as possible.

I'll let everyone no what brand and model I go with for future refference. We should probably update the corssover list as none of the ones listed are available anymore.

Steve

[stevedmc]

I believe this is what you need:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POWER-ANTENNA-SUBARU-LEGACY-WAGON-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e641a9d70QQitemZ13052 8484720QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

It looks identical to the LN46 and is $32 shipped.

[mluder]

See notes in BLUE


DMCH sells a direct replacement antenna with a black mast. Install is kind of easy...

In the engine compartment, remove the 4 bolts for the carbon canister cover.

Rotate the cover 90 degrees and then pull away with the carbon canister attached.

There are likely 2 nuts holding the bracket to the rear fiberglass bulkhead - remove them and disconnect the wires for power, ground, and extend.
Mine had one nut on a bolt at the back (tailight area) and one at the bottom of the pontoon utilizing one of the panel bolts.

In the passenger compartment remove the parcel carpet and the triangular plywood cover to expose the relay for the antenna. Unplug the antenna wire from the extension wire in this area.

Its probably easier to remove the black metal clips for the cargo net and then remove the vertical board at the rear of the cargo are - I didn't and it can be done, but it would probably be easier and I will next time.

Tie a pull string to the antenna wire, then from the engine compartment pull the antenna wire back through the rear pontoon.
Very good idea... would not have thought of that.

Remove the screw at the base of the bracket and the locking ring for the antenna at the top. Install the new antenna into the bracket.

Use the pull string to pull the new antenna wire through and hook it up. Hook up the remaining 3 wires.
3 wires; brown, yellow, and white... Which is power, ground, extend? I assume white is ground?

Put the bracket in place and tighten the nuts.

From outside the car make sure your positioning is ok and the antenna will come up thru the opening properly,

Test for proper operation.

Replace the carbon canister and bolt up the cover.

Put the panels and carpeting back in the interior.

Easy overall with moments of frustration possible.

[mluder]

BTW are there connectors somewhere on the power, ground, and extend wires or am I cutting and splicing?

[SoCalDMC12]

Earlier is year I had to replace mine. I brout it to Best Buy and they had one in stock that, with the exception of color - it was chrome, was exactly the same. The folks on the floor won't know anything about it, but the people in the installation shop can help you.

[mluder]

Earlier is year I had to replace mine. I brout it to Best Buy and they had one in stock that, with the exception of color - it was chrome, was exactly the same. The folks on the floor won't know anything about it, but the people in the installation shop can help you.

Do you remember what you paid?
Auto zone has them for about $50 if I remember correctly.

Steve

[SoCalDMC12]

Do you remember what you paid?
Auto zone has them for about $50 if I remember correctly.

Steve

I think they charged about $90, but am not positive.

[TTait]

Mine were red, black and green - red and black being +12 and ground respectively, green went to the up/down signal wire.

I think white is the up/down wire as it is that color further forward passing under the center console.

Get a meter - check continuity between brown and ground - Im guessing brown is ground - regardless find continuity between one of the three wires and the stainless body - thats ground. Then make sure the ignition is off. with the black lead on the meter running to your ground wire, you will find +12 on one wire and nothing on the other - the one with +12 with key off is the +12 feed to the antenna. the other should have no voltage now turn the key and the radio on, and you will now find +12 on the third wire which had no voltage when the key was off - this is the up/down wire.

[mluder]

Mine were red, black and green - red and black being +12 and ground respectively, green went to the up/down signal wire.

I think white is the up/down wire as it is that color further forward passing under the center console.

Get a meter - check continuity between brown and ground - Im guessing brown is ground - regardless find continuity between one of the three wires and the stainless body - thats ground. Then make sure the ignition is off. with the black lead on the meter running to your ground wire, you will find +12 on one wire and nothing on the other - the one with +12 with key off is the +12 feed to the antenna. the other should have no voltage now turn the key and the radio on, and you will now find +12 on the third wire which had no voltage when the key was off - this is the up/down wire.

I found the white to be ground, yellow constant power, and brown the trigger wire. Everything checks out all the way to the final connections but the mast wont fire. I think i might have fried a switch inside the new antenna. Going to try a replacement.

Steve

[TTait]

I found the white to be ground, yellow constant power, and brown the trigger wire. Everything checks out all the way to the final connections but the mast wont fire. I think i might have fried a switch inside the new antenna. Going to try a replacement.

Steve

Now its time for me to swap out the antenna in my wife's car, were those wire colors correct?

Tom

[Stainless]

Has anyone used this antenna?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130541007620

This is the best price I've seen. Stainless steel mast, but the fact that it's coming all the way from Hong Kong has me concerned. Wondering if anyone else has tried it.

[dmcerm]

Ttait,

So what was your ballpark time for this project? It sounds like it was a pretty straight forward thing but with time at a premium, I just thought I'd ask so I know roughly how much time to plan for.

Thanks, great write up on the install!

Mark
16891

[TTait]

You should be able to get it done about 90 minutes, which allows for gotchas...

Let me know if you have any trouble, but it should be totally doable.

[mluder]

It's a pretty easy job.

One thing to be aware of is cascading relays. If you hadn an existing power antenna there is a relay in the compartment behind the driver's seat. (My car is an '81 Vin 4456) It's a little clear plastic switch next to the Idle Control ECU. This is the switch that tells the antenna to go up or down depending on the voltage it receives. Many of the newr antenna's have the relay bult into them.

When I originally installed everything, I just made the electrical connections in the pontoon and then pulled the antenna lead into the rear compartment as Tom's instructions state but the antenna wouldn't go up. I had to pull the electrical lines into the compartment too and then cut the leads before they hit the exisitng relay. Then it worked like a charm

Annother little problem I had was the reception quality would go in and out. I found out that the retaining nut around the shaft was loos and allowed the mast to move around and not get a good ground. I had to tighten that retaining ring and now it's fine.

Steve

[dmcerm]

Well, I finally got into my antenna project. It's been a while since I've had time to do car stuff. Anyway, the new antenna has a short black wire (ground I presume?) And a red and blue wire.

My existing antenna, an old after market one has the relay just as you said and has three wires, a blue, green and yellow. All three run onto the relay.
Then running from the HOT cable hook up on rightside (passenger side) of the engine bay, I have a blue wire running from the HOT wire hook up into the aftermarket relay... This wire has an inline fuse before it goes into the relay.

Then. In the instructions it says to plug the red wire of the new antenna into the door lock circuit breaker? What and where is that? Coming off of my door lock module there is a random red wire with the correct female end that would accept the male end on the red wire of the new antenna but I have that removed since my door locks have never worked. Is that where I am supposed to plug the red wire into... If so, I can easily put the old module back, just to get this working.

So the question is, I will send pictures then... Can I use the existing relay to hook up the new one?
My relay compartment is really messed so to telling me how to do it the original way won't always work.
And on the new DMCH antenna is the relay right on the unit? I see all the wires are run into a little box right on the shaft of antenna but then that should eliminate the need for the aftermarket relay, right?

I am not sure what steps to take to get this new, simpler antenna up and running. Again, I will post pictures to make this story make more sense.

Thanks.

Mark
16891

[jawn101]

Well, I finally got into my antenna project. It's been a while since I've had time to do car stuff. Anyway, the new antenna has a short black wire (ground I presume?) And a red and blue wire.

My existing antenna, an old after market one has the relay just as you said and has three wires, a blue, green and yellow. All three run onto the relay.
Then running from the HOT cable hook up on rightside (passenger side) of the engine bay, I have a blue wire running from the HOT wire hook up into the aftermarket relay... This wire has an inline fuse before it goes into the relay.

Then. In the instructions it says to plug the red wire of the new antenna into the door lock circuit breaker? What and where is that? Coming off of my door lock module there is a random red wire with the correct female end that would accept the male end on the red wire of the new antenna but I have that removed since my door locks have never worked. Is that where I am supposed to plug the red wire into... If so, I can easily put the old module back, just to get this working.

So the question is, I will send pictures then... Can I use the existing relay to hook up the new one?
My relay compartment is really messed so to telling me how to do it the original way won't always work.
And on the new DMCH antenna is the relay right on the unit? I see all the wires are run into a little box right on the shaft of antenna but then that should eliminate the need for the aftermarket relay, right?

I am not sure what steps to take to get this new, simpler antenna up and running. Again, I will post pictures to make this story make more sense.

Thanks.

Mark
16891

Black is probably going to be ground. Red I suppose could go to the door lock breaker because it's always hot. Blue is remote turn-on, which has to go to your head unit's remote turn-on wire (basically just a wake-up signal)

Unfortunately if your relay compartment is messed up it's going to be hard to describe the door lock breaker. It's a thermal trip breaker, usually a small metal box about 1.5"x.75" rectangular. Would have spade terminals or screw posts depending on if it is original or a newer replacement. I believe it was rated at 25A.

Original position can be seen on this schematic, #36.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=2559&d=1310439243

[dmcerm]

Can you send me a picture of your door lock circuit braker? Maybe I can track mine down to try to fix it. Always interestingwith this car.

[rundmc]

I had a very strange rear antenna bracket that all but completely obstructed access to the interior of the driver's side pontoon, the bracket covering the access hole, which made reassembly and dis-assembly of the rear fascia difficult. Since all I listen to are MP3s anyway and the antenna wasn't always able to fully retract, I just removed it entirely and kept it for posterity. It doesn't look like the antenna brackets sold by DMCH though.

[jawn101]

Can you send me a picture of your door lock circuit braker? Maybe I can track mine down to try to fix it. Always interestingwith this car.

Here's a photo of my breaker. It's the small rectangular box just to the left of the lock module. It has a brown wire on one post and a yellow and red one on the other post.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=9570&d=1333676833

[dmcerm]

See notes in BLUE



So now, viewing your picture, where does the red wire from the antenna get plugged into?

And what color is the power wire, the wire that sends the power to put the antenna up and down, that comes from the radio back?

Thanks for the pic! I will be looking at my set up before bed. Thanks for your help!

[jawn101]

I should have been clearer - I don't have the power antenna wired in this photo. I am not certain which side of the breaker you'd attach your red wire to (that's the positive lead), but you'd ground the black and the blue goes to the stereo for remote turn-on.

I suspect the red wire would go to the same side as the red power wire to the lock module, as you'd want some sort of protection for the antenna.

[mluder]

Hi, Mark.

I don't know if this will help but here's how I was able to get mine working... your milage may vary depending on how your system was modified previoously.

There is a relay in the compartment under the parcel shelf behind the driver's seat where the ECU is at. It is in a clear housing and has 5 wires coming off of it (red, green, yellow, brown, white). Disregard everything but the red and green.

9574 9577

Make sure your battery is disconnected or if you have a battery cut off switch, turn it to the off position - basically cut electrical power.

Cut the red and the green wire from the relay. These are the control leads from the radio unit.

Now attach the red wire from the antenna to the red wire from the head unit - not the one coming out of the relay.
Attach the blue antenna wire to the green wire from the head unit.
I attached the ground from the antenna to the white wire inside the rear pontoon. This wire runs forward to the complartment behind the driver's seat and attaches to the screw that holds the antenna relay to the tray. You can see it in the second picture of the relay above.

9575 9576

RE-connect your battery and turn your key to activate electrical. Your antenna should go up and down as the radio power is turned on/off.

Make sure that your antenna is mounted securly and will clear the plastic vent trim piece.

Cheers.
Steve

[dmcerm]

9579
Ok... this first picture is of ALL the wires I am working with on this project.

First, notice down by the net you see three wires, a blue, yellow and green. All three of these run from the relay to the antenna.

Second, see there is an orange wire coming out of the repay that then is spliced into a white wire. Correct me if I'm wrong, I believe this orange/white wire runs up to the radio. I see it runs into the rear of the console and I assume up to the radio.

Next, in the top photo you'll notice a red wire coming out of the relay up to an inline fuse... this red wire changes on the other end of the inline fuse changes to a blue wire that leads through the firewall, acorss the engine-side of the firewall and over to the big positive lead on the passenger side of the engine bay... see picture blow.
9580

So now from your helpful last post and a bit of thinking, here's what I think should happen. I belive I should red wire of the new antenna to the red/blue wire that has the inline fuse in it (the one that runs to the big positive lead in the engine bay).
Then I'll snip the orange/white spliced wire and attach the blue wire of the new antenna to it.
Does this seem to be a viable plan?
My only other question would be, where to I connect the new antenna's ground wire? Should I just connect it to the antenna bracket bolt inside the pontoon? or does it need to be run into the ECU compartment behind the driver's seat?
Also, can you tell me, is the yellow wire in the picture on the old antenna that runs into the relay, is that the ground wire?

Ok, thanks a lot for your pictures and explainations, I think this might have helped me.
As you can see I have a similar old antenna set up but my car's wiring is so bad, I don't have the nice red and green wires running from the front of the car's radio like you, so this is a bit more of a project than I imagined.

Thanks again!

Mark

[dmcerm]

Figured it out... all is well. Final assembly tomorrow morning and we should be back in business. With mluder's help and the advice and points raised in the whole thread, once I learned from what others were writing and really studied my own car's setup, it was pretty straight forward.
It is still not a stock setup, from the power wire set up (coming off the hot post inside the engine bay) but the rest of the set up is 90% original and seems to be a bit more reliable, although the old antenna's Achilles's Heel was the antenna itself, otherwise it worked fine but never retracted...
So, I will post a few pics tomorrow if I have time but it was a basic install once I figured out the wiring (amazing what a volt meter can help you find out) and worked out the fine-tuning of the new antenna on the original bracket, while keeping enough room for the charcoal canister to be put back in.

Thanks a lot for everyone's advice!

Mark
16891

[dmcerm]

Well it's in. I hooked the red wire of the new antenna to my power wire. Then I hooked the blue wire to the wire running from the radio. I grounded it and attached the signal wire and all went well.
Everything for ok, after a few moments when I thought the charcoal canister wouldn't fit back in.
The only thing is now is that when the antenna goes up or down, the antenna motor still runs up to ten times once its fully up or down before the motor stops running. So hopefully that won't cause me a problem right away, since I just got this put it. I hope it doesn't burn itself out right away.
Anyway, thanks a lot for all he tips on this project, the descriptions were just when I needed to get familiar with the original setup and my unique wiring situation.
Thanks a lot!

Mark
16891

[mluder]

Sorry, I disappeared on you but it looks like you got it sorted. Glad to hear.

Cheers
Steve


Well it's in. I hooked the red wire of the new antenna to my power wire. Then I hooked the blue wire to the wire running from the radio. I grounded it and attached the signal wire and all went well.
Everything for ok, after a few moments when I thought the charcoal canister wouldn't fit back in.
The only thing is now is that when the antenna goes up or down, the antenna motor still runs up to ten times once its fully up or down before the motor stops running. So hopefully that won't cause me a problem right away, since I just got this put it. I hope it doesn't burn itself out right away.
Anyway, thanks a lot for all he tips on this project, the descriptions were just when I needed to get familiar with the original setup and my unique wiring situation.
Thanks a lot!

Mark
16891

[dmcerm]

No worries. Your descriptions and pictures were just what I needed to get mine sorted out.
Thanks again. But since the motor runs a bit after it is fully up and fully down I hope I don't have to do this in a year again if the motor burns out.

Thanks a lot for everything!

Mark
16891

[Stainless]

I found that all of the websites that list the Legacy LN46 for sale are out of stock. I ordered one back in February, but later found out that company was out of them too. I am now trying to find other antennas online that will work and was hoping you could tell me if any of the following will work. None are listed specifically as a Legacy LN46:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Antenna-SUBARU-Legacy-Wagon-SUBARU-Legacy-Wagon-/250943930370?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6d6c8002&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-ANTENNA-SUBARU-LEGACY-WAGON-/190660565522?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c64415a12&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY-CADDY-BUICK-CHEVY-OLDS-PONTIAC-CORVETTE-BMW-HONDA-AND-MORE-/270949399827?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessorie s&hash=item3f15d7bd13&vxp=mtr

[mluder]

It's hard to say for certain but pretty much any of those should work. The trick is in the mounting bracket. If you have an exisitng antenna, the bracket may work or you may have to modify it slightly. I had to drill a new hole location for the the motor housing drain (that plastic nipple you see on the botom of the motor housing). If you don't have the bracket, they are available in DMCH last I recall. OF course ou will also have to modify your rear side window vent as well.

I bought my replacement antenna at a local Auto Zone - don't remember the brand. I think it was around $50 but the convenience is, if I couldn't get it to work or it didn't fit, I could easily return or exchange it without having to ship it etc.

Steve


I found that all of the websites that list the Legacy LN46 for sale are out of stock. I ordered one back in February, but later found out that company was out of them too. I am now trying to find other antennas online that will work and was hoping you could tell me if any of the following will work. None are listed specifically as a Legacy LN46:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Antenna-SUBARU-Legacy-Wagon-SUBARU-Legacy-Wagon-/250943930370?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6d6c8002&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-ANTENNA-SUBARU-LEGACY-WAGON-/190660565522?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c64415a12&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY-CADDY-BUICK-CHEVY-OLDS-PONTIAC-CORVETTE-BMW-HONDA-AND-MORE-/270949399827?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessorie s&hash=item3f15d7bd13&vxp=mtr

[john 05141]

Maybe hard to see in this picture, but even when driving, my antenna leans forward. Standing still it is worse. I tried to correct this last winter, but it is still bad. Hard to tell if the mast is bent, I think not.

John

[Chris 16409]

My power antenna recently took a dive on me. It was replaced when I got my car, but the mast came loose and got hung up of the air intake screen. It continued to work until after I retightened the mass but it was never right. It just died on me, so I removed the assembly from the car. This is the antenna I found:

11593

It was attached to a DMCH style bracket. The antenna is very common, I was able to find it on eBay for around $25. It's a Metra 44-PW22 radio antenna. Autozone sells the same antenna for about $50. Since the Legacy antenna doesn't seem to be available, this should be a good alternative. When I install the replacement, I'm goring to use a bit of locktite on the top threads so the screw top doesn't come loose again.

[bfloyd]

Resurrecting an older thread here instead of starting a new one for the same topic...

Several months ago I order the new electric replacement power antenna from DMCH, and installation wasn't too bad, and everything seemed to work just fine until last night. I pulled the car out of the garage and the antenna went up like it should. When I turned off the key it didn't retract - it just stayed in the extended position. It's weird that it worked fine one minute, and 30 seconds later it's dead. I was able to manually push the mast back down into the air vent so I could get the car cover back on, and the radio reception doesn't seem to be affected whether the mast is up or down.

During installation, I don't remember seeing an inline fuse specifically on the antenna wiring harness. I pulled the charcoal canister out last night and poked around down inside the pontoon to see it anything would have happened to come loose. All was well. Do you guys remember if there was an in-line fuse, or does this sound like a burnt out motor or relay?

[David T]

Resurrecting an older thread here instead of starting a new one for the same topic...

Several months ago I order the new electric replacement power antenna from DMCH, and installation wasn't too bad, and everything seemed to work just fine until last night. I pulled the car out of the garage and the antenna went up like it should. When I turned off the key it didn't retract - it just stayed in the extended position. It's weird that it worked fine one minute, and 30 seconds later it's dead. I was able to manually push the mast back down into the air vent so I could get the car cover back on, and the radio reception doesn't seem to be affected whether the mast is up or down.

During installation, I don't remember seeing an inline fuse specifically on the antenna wiring harness. I pulled the charcoal canister out last night and poked around down inside the pontoon to see it anything would have happened to come loose. All was well. Do you guys remember if there was an in-line fuse, or does this sound like a burnt out motor or relay?

The original installation used an in-line fuse behind the driver's seat next to the antennae relay. Power for it comes from the circuit breaker for the door lock module.

[jawn101]

The original installation used an in-line fuse behind the driver's seat next to the antennae relay. Power for it comes from the circuit breaker for the door lock module.

What he said. Though you definitely didn't do it any favors by pushing it down manually....

[DMCMW Dave]

Resurrecting an older thread here instead of starting a new one for the same topic...

Several months ago I order the new electric replacement power antenna from DMCH, and installation wasn't too bad, and everything seemed to work just fine until last night. I pulled the car out of the garage and the antenna went up like it should. When I turned off the key it didn't retract - it just stayed in the extended position. It's weird that it worked fine one minute, and 30 seconds later it's dead. I was able to manually push the mast back down into the air vent so I could get the car cover back on, and the radio reception doesn't seem to be affected whether the mast is up or down.

During installation, I don't remember seeing an inline fuse specifically on the antenna wiring harness. I pulled the charcoal canister out last night and poked around down inside the pontoon to see it anything would have happened to come loose. All was well. Do you guys remember if there was an in-line fuse, or does this sound like a burnt out motor or relay?

There should be an inline fuse holder (red wire) in the electrical compartment behind the driver. The factory fuse holder is very brittle, and often breaks and the fuse falls out. Usually the installers just re-use that fuse holder.

[bfloyd]

My car originally came with a front fender mounted antenna, so I ran all new wiring from the rear of the car to the interior. I pulled the 12 volt constant power from the door lock circuit break module in the relay compartment, ground wire to an existing ground strap near the corner of the rear fascia, and extended the trigger wire all the way up to the new head unit. If my car (August 1981) ever had any of the original power antenna wiring, I sure as heck didn't use it.

[dtavres]

On the PepBoys website, I can only find the 22, not the 44 - www.pepboys.com/product/details/9150605/01667 ($70+)

But, on Amazon, I found the 44 - www.bitly.com/Metra44-PW22 ($42)

Should I just order the one from Amazon?

Is the kit from DMC different/better? http://store.delorean.com/p-7255-kit-automatic-antenna.aspx

Thanks!
Dave

[Stainless]

It's up to you. I ultimately went with the Metra 44-PW22B unit, which is the black mast version. I've been extremely happy with mine since I installed it a couple of months back.

[Chris 16409]

I got a Metra unit on eBay several years ago for under $20. It was the silver mast version. So far it has been good. Much cheaper than the DMC unit. Interestingly, when DMC-CA installed the antennabefore I bought the car, it was a Metra unit. That's how I knew which one to search for.

[dtavres]

Thanks all! I just ordered the "Metra 44-PW22B Replacement Power Antenna (Black)"

I ordered it on Jet.com (with the coupon code of SHOP15) and got it for $41 with free shipping!

https://jet.com/product/Metra-44-PW22B-Replacement-Power-Antenna-for-Select-GM-Nissan-and-Ford-Vehicles-/e5000754b5dd40c1a72fc1d06ebf8bf1

41956

Now I'd like to find someone in Orange County with experience to give me a hand :) (I know, "it's easy", but I'd like to have another set of DeLorean eyes)

Thanks again all!

[Peripatetic]

If I disconnect the power antennae will the radio still turn on? Not the am and fm part, I mean the cassette tape player. I don't generally listen to the radio waves but instead opt for iPhone to cassette and I don't see any reason for the antennae to be out.

[Patrick C]

If I disconnect the power antennae will the radio still turn on? Not the am and fm part, I mean the cassette tape player. I don't generally listen to the radio waves but instead opt for iPhone to cassette and I don't see any reason for the antennae to be out.

Yes, the stereo will still power on with the antenna unplugged.

[dhaney]

I've always wanted to get rid of the antenna mast and stay true to the original designer concept... to that end corvette and Fiero (another Giugiaro designed car) swear by this.

Turns rear defroster array into your antenna and the defrost will still work. Of course for the 10 minutes of defrost you have no reception.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wiring+antenna+to+use+window+defroster&oq=wiring+antenna+to+use+window+defr&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j33.28111j0j4&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=r5aIMdLm_vYKtM%3A

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[David T]

A very clever idea BUT. Since it is still oriented in the horizontal plane and the signals are transmitted in and propagate in the vertical plane, it still will be very inefficient and will only work if you have a powerful signal. It is also somewhat shielded by the T top panel and does not have a great ground plane. You would be happier with the power antennae which is what the designers changed things to when it was found the windshield antennae didn't work very well. If you do not isolate the radio form the defroster properly it is possible to put 12 volts directly into the radio antennae input. The radio will not like that and will stop working.

[BABIS]

I've always wanted to get rid of the antenna mast and stay true to the original designer concept... to that end corvette and Fiero (another Giugiaro designed car) swear by this.

Turns rear defroster array into your antenna and the defrost will still work. Of course for the 10 minutes of defrost you have no reception.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wiring+antenna+to+use+window+defroster&oq=wiring+antenna+to+use+window+defr&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j33.28111j0j4&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=r5aIMdLm_vYKtM%3A

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

already discussed here http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2442-Rear-Window-Defroster-as-an-antenna

[Blackie]

Resurrecting an older thread here instead of starting a new one for the same topic...

Several months ago I order the new electric replacement power antenna from DMCH, and installation wasn't too bad, and everything seemed to work just fine until last night. I pulled the car out of the garage and the antenna went up like it should. When I turned off the key it didn't retract - it just stayed in the extended position. It's weird that it worked fine one minute, and 30 seconds later it's dead. I was able to manually push the mast back down into the air vent so I could get the car cover back on, and the radio reception doesn't seem to be affected whether the mast is up or down.

During installation, I don't remember seeing an inline fuse specifically on the antenna wiring harness. I pulled the charcoal canister out last night and poked around down inside the pontoon to see it anything would have happened to come loose. All was well. Do you guys remember if there was an in-line fuse, or does this sound like a burnt out motor or relay?

My newish DMC antenna stopped working a few weeks ago all of a sudden. I pulled it out, took the side plate off the motor and found corrosion on the shiny metal disc that rotates and seems to act like a limit switch. Cleaned that and the contacts up and it started working again.

[Peripatetic]

I've always wanted to get rid of the antenna mast and stay true to the original designer concept... to that end corvette and Fiero (another Giugiaro designed car) swear by this.

Turns rear defroster array into your antenna and the defrost will still work. Of course for the 10 minutes of defrost you have no reception.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wiring+antenna+to+use+window+defroster&oq=wiring+antenna+to+use+window+defr&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j33.28111j0j4&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=r5aIMdLm_vYKtM%3A

Sent from my SM-N920V using TapatalkI unplugged the antennae from behind the driver seat, and taped a note as to what it is for far future forgetful me or unlikely next owner know what it is. I'm not sure why I like it this way. I can't even see it when I drive, really.

[dhaney]

I've read every review of power antenna there is, 7 of ten will tell you they suck.

In fact in my research a non-powered hidden antenna is better, according to reviews. The powered antenna seem to create their own noise.

The corvette and Fiero clubs swear by them. I don't know a single antenna that works great outside the range of an average stations broadcast zone. This is due is compounded in Colorado. The mountains interfere with radio, WiFi and open air television reception. In fact they mess with my GPS when out mtn biking. Often my computer will understate how far my ride really was.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[mluder]

I think half of the problem has nothing to do with the antenna and everything to do with the poor selectivity of the original Craig radio tuner. (Of course this only applies to stock radio users)
I think it just doesn't have the capability of locking on to stations and holding the signal.

Maybe those with newer head units con confirm.

Cheers
Steve

[David T]

I think half of the problem has nothing to do with the antenna and everything to do with the poor selectivity of the original Craig radio tuner. (Of course this only applies to stock radio users)
I think it just doesn't have the capability of locking on to stations and holding the signal.

Maybe those with newer head units con confirm.

Cheers
Steve

Both the Craig and ASI units have poor S/N rejection compared to modern radios. What that means is they do not do well with weak signals, the antennae doesn't have much to do with that as long as it can deliver the signal without reducing it much or introducing unwanted noise. For that era they were almost OK, nothing great. The newer power antennas do not seem to be as reliable as the older ones were. Most car manufacturers have gotten away from power retractables, they are another thing to go bad and the newer radios can operate with smaller, fixed antennas. Also better in the car wash!