How To: Removing intake manifold

[John U]

I won't take credit for this fine piece of how-to....I saved it from the old dmctalk

[NOWAX]

Great info. I'd like to replace all the old bolts with new stainless ones when I do my valley. Does anyone have a list of these and their sizes?

[John U]

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/cooling-system.html

special T auto sells a waterpump kit that has every bolt and seal that you should replace


John

[1batt4u]

Great info. I'd like to replace all the old bolts with new stainless ones when I do my valley. Does anyone have a list of these and their sizes?

I think I saw on the forum someone mentioning that they offer a whole set of SS bolts for the entire engine! Not sure! I've been posting and asking questions, looking up stuff, so I get a little mixed up here and there!! :Headspin:

[NJP548]

I just happened across this how-to article since I am going to be doing a tune-up on my car in the near future and wanted instructions on how to remove/replace the intake manifold.

I was surprised to see the PDF referenced the fuel hose diagram I created back in 2000!

It appears that the DMCNews.com-hosted image for this fuel diagram is no longer loading.

I was able to pull that image from archive.org and I am adding it to this post for future reference.

I'm flattered that my diagram was included in this how-to article!

59694

Thanks.

-Nick Pitello

PS: My AOL address is no longer valid lol

If the image is too small, use this link from the archive.org website:

https://web.archive.org/web/20110727212815/https://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/fuelhoses.htm

[Rich]

Great info. I'd like to replace all the old bolts with new stainless ones when I do my valley. Does anyone have a list of these and their sizes?

Read this link (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/blog/2017/09/15/stainless-steel-and-aluminum/) before you decide to do that. The old bolts are zinc plated steel, which is the OE design. Unless you are sure that stainless will be better I'd recommend putting on fresh OE-style zinc-plated steel bolts.

I can't say I've seen the stainless-aluminum problem personally.

Anybody else on the forum know whether using stainless steel bolts in an aluminum block is OK or not OK?

[DMC-Ron]

Read this link (https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/blog/2017/09/15/stainless-steel-and-aluminum/) before you decide to do that. The old bolts are zinc plated steel, which is the OE design. Unless you are sure that stainless will be better I'd recommend putting on fresh OE-style zinc-plated steel bolts.

I can't say I've seen the stainless-aluminum problem personally.

Anybody else on the forum know whether using stainless steel bolts in an aluminum block is OK or not OK?

While in theory the galvanic corrosion is applicable with stainless and aluminum, it seems less of an issue in practice. Stainless steal fasteners have been used on aluminum aircraft cowlings for decades. While their contact is often insulated with paint when new, over time there is direct metal to metal contact. Most aircraft are kept in a hanger but many primary trainers face the elements on the ramp. Even in these worst case examples, there have not been large galvanic corrosion issues reported. But its important to remember there are various types and quality of both aluminum and stainless. Low quality stainless can oxidize. This creates an issue regardless of the surrounding material. When I use stainless hardware, I always use some anti-seize agent on the threads. Additionally, CorrosionX (or some other inhibitor) can also be applied.

Ron

[FABombjoy]

I think the issue with stainless fasteners is more about thread galling:

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Thread-galling.aspx

[DMC-Ron]

I think the issue with stainless fasteners is more about thread galling:

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Thread-galling.aspx

Exactly, I always use anti-seize when using stainless hardware.
Ron

[mr_maxime]

I've heard about anti-galvanic corrosion for a while now, but my SS bolts come out of the aluminum no problem without anti seize after 4 years. I have sheared multiple zinc plated bolts that rusted though. Granted the zinc bolts are much older, there is a still a very good chance that zinc plated bolts will rust if used anywhere but the interior. Using a ratchet and combo wrenches, I've never had anything gall either.

However, SS bolts are weaker than grade 8 bolts and I will not use them on anything where strength will be an issue like the axles or flywheel.

[DL4567]

I'm about 75% of the way through this, and when trying to loosen some of the fuel lines from the distributor, the entire fuel mixture unit tilts up at the rear and rocks towards the firewall. Maybe there's nothing wrong with that, but it seems like the W-pipe should be removed AFTER the fuel lines are disconnected, to hold the mixture unit more firmly in place. Is the rocking anything to worry about? It's pretty bad with the horizontal banjo bolts, and no assistant to hold the mixture unit in place.

[MrChocky]

I'm about 75% of the way through this, and when trying to loosen some of the fuel lines from the distributor, the entire fuel mixture unit tilts up at the rear and rocks towards the firewall. Maybe there's nothing wrong with that, but it seems like the W-pipe should be removed AFTER the fuel lines are disconnected, to hold the mixture unit more firmly in place. Is the rocking anything to worry about? It's pretty bad with the horizontal banjo bolts, and no assistant to hold the mixture unit in place.

No one has replied to this, so let me take a stab. For some of the jobs, there's actually no need to remove the fuel lines. The mixture unit can be pushed far enough out of the way. This is what I did when I removed my manifold for painting.

As for supporting the mixture unit, as long as it's not banging around or causing undue stress on things, I wouldn't overthink it. And I certainly don't think there's any reason not not remove the W-Pipe first if that
works better for you.

[DL4567]

No one has replied to this, so let me take a stab. For some of the jobs, there's actually no need to remove the fuel lines. The mixture unit can be pushed far enough out of the way. This is what I did when I removed my manifold for painting.

As for supporting the mixture unit, as long as it's not banging around or causing undue stress on things, I wouldn't overthink it. And I certainly don't think there's any reason not not remove the W-Pipe first if that works better for you.

Thanks for your reply. I pushed on and am much further in the process now (almost done). Just this morning I removed the 4 manifold bolts after letting them soak in PB Blaster overnight. Having never done the manifold removal project before, I've learned a lot and have a feeling of accomplishment.