DMCH Reproduction Fiberglass Front Facia

[Chris 16409]

My recent accident as earned me a bevy of new parts courtesy of the insurance company, one of them being a new fiberglass front facia. This is a very nice product, and is in my opinion is superior to the original. As this is made of fiberglass, there will never be any warping or "eyebrows". It is very rigid, the fiberglass is rather thick. It comes from the manufacturer "gel coated" and needs to be prepped, pre-fitted, and painted. Drilling all the holes and adding fasteners is part of this process. The body shop I went to did a very nice job. They color matched the paint from the rear facia. I'm due to pick up the car, but I have some shots of the facia before it was installed. One is of pictures shows it still in the box, it came packaged very well. I'll post more pictures once I get the car back.

[r00b]

It looks good.

[dvonk]

It looks good.

+1, straight as an arrow! :cool:

[Chris 16409]

Here are some pictures with the facia fitted and my car back in my garage!

[Domi]

Looks like a really good improvement :)
Really nice paint job!

[Patrick C]

Phenomenal!

[DrJeff]

Chris... Do you know the color codes/instructions that the shop used to paint the facia. It has that metallic/shine that I'd like to get replicated.

[Dangermouse]

On the second pic it looks like there are lines on the top face of the fascia. I assume that is just a trick of the light?

[Nicholas R]

That looks awesome! I cant believe how good the fitment is!

[Chris Burns]

That really looks great!:aniclap:

[Chris 16409]

On the second pic it looks like there are lines on the top face of the fascia. I assume that is just a trick of the light?

Yes It's just the way the light is hitting the facia.



Chris... Do you know the color codes/instructions that the shop used to paint the facia. It has that metallic/shine that I'd like to get replicated.

I'll see if I can find out. As I mentioned, they matched the color from the rear facia and what was left over from the old front one.

The guy who worked on it was very skilled. I had some fiberglass body damage that he also repaired. The shop I used was very eager to work on the car. They weren't afraid to take on the job. They were thrilled when I showed them where to get all the parts. I have to give a shout out to Toby at DMCNW. He coordinated everything with the body shop and Houston. He was extremely helpful throughout the process, and I'm glad he got credit for the sale.

[jawn101]

Really great looking fascia. They did a nice job for sure. I'm hoping to see the rear ones in fiberglass one of these days, since they are almost always 'smiling'

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Here are some pictures with the facia fitted and my car back in my garage!

Looks great! Next time you are outside, would you mind taking some more photos?

Also, any side photos of the area below the black part of the bumper where it meets the fender?

thanks!

[DMCH James]

Sales have been so good on these fascias that our supplier is now keeping at least two on hand at all times, rather than building to order. This should mean that you can order one at any time and have it drop shipped immediately to you.

http://store.delorean.com/p-9689-front-fascia.aspx

The car looks great, Chris - thanks for posting the photos.

James

[Chris 16409]

Here are some additional photos of the new facia. It's a bit dirty.

[jawn101]

Here are some additional photos of the new facia. It's a bit dirty.

Looks really nice.

[Mark D]

The fit and finish looks excellent! Someday I want to get one of these....

[Fluxat88MPH]

Get that color code info yet?

[Fluxat88MPH]

Get that color code info yet?

Still out there?

[Domi]

I don't know if its what you're looking for, but some people in France used this one:
TOYOTA Warm Grey N°165
Hope this helps.

[jfirios]

I am thinking of getting the fiberglass facia too for my car, but the guys here at the DMC in cali said that it is such a tight fit, if you ever need to replace your headlamps you have to remove the whole facia first. There is no room to get in there to unscrew the head lamps. Just wanted to get others opinions on it.

[DMC5180]

I am thinking of getting the fiberglass facia too for my car, but the guys here at the DMC in cali said that it is such a tight fit, if you ever need to replace your headlamps you have to remove the whole facia first. There is no room to get in there to unscrew the head lamps. Just wanted to get others opinions on it.

This is true. The Fiberglass is ridged but the fit is near perfect. The OEM urethane one flexes enough to access the bezel screws. The fiberglass does not flex. It is suggested you replace the Headlight bulbs with New or whatever flavor you like before the Facsia is installed. It reduces the likely hood you would need to replace one ever again given the typical minimal use of the headlights on a car that is not daily driven at night.

[Bitsyncmaster]

One guy suggested inverting the headlight buckets. Not sure if that would help in this case but it's worth a try.

[DMC5180]

One guy suggested inverting the headlight buckets. Not sure if that would help in this case but it's worth a try.

I believe it's been tried but did not work out.

[jawn101]

I thought I remembered reading that the suggestion was to leave one or two of the more difficult headlight screws out completely.

[dmc4087]

I am thinking of getting the fiberglass facia too for my car, but the guys here at the DMC in cali said that it is such a tight fit, if you ever need to replace your headlamps you have to remove the whole facia first. There is no room to get in there to unscrew the head lamps. Just wanted to get others opinions on it.

That would be far too inconvienient.

My urethane fascia was refurbed a few years ago, and reinforced with stainless strips. Its now as straight as an arrow, and I can still change a bulb without taking the whole fascia off!

[davidhamblyn]

Very nice op.good job.the future is bright with dmch.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Has anyone had any problems with the fiberglass cracking after installation? Just wanted to know how these hold up to the elements and road debris.

[beernpizzalover]

Yes It's just the way the light is hitting the facia.




I'll see if I can find out. As I mentioned, they matched the color from the rear facia and what was left over from the old front one.

The guy who worked on it was very skilled. I had some fiberglass body damage that he also repaired. The shop I used was very eager to work on the car. They weren't afraid to take on the job. They were thrilled when I showed them where to get all the parts. I have to give a shout out to Toby at DMCNW. He coordinated everything with the body shop and Houston. He was extremely helpful throughout the process, and I'm glad he got credit for the sale.

I think I may consider having my front fascia replaced next Spring with one of these new fiberglass parts, rather than trying to straighten out the eyebrows with reinforcement. Thanks for sharing your pics!

[DMCVegas]

Hmm.... Allow me to borrow a picture from another thread here (thanks in advance to Kenny_Z (http://dmctalk.org/member.php?534-Kenny_Z)!).

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/misc008.jpg

Look at the area behind those buckets. There is a pretty decent amount of space there, and I think that we've got a couple of options here. However, both options would require you to abandon the Sealed Beam bulbs and convert your car over to Composite units, and the easiest one I can think of would just be this one:

Option 1


Pull front grille off to detach it.
Reach into fascia, and behind High Beam Bucket to detach Bulb and Harness.
Remove High Beam Composite housing from bucket.
Reach through High Beam Bucket to remove/replace Low Beam Bulb.



There are other options, but they're allot more complicated.

[DCUK Martin]

Yeah I think that was Bill R who missd the fact that though not obvious, each headlight bucket is different. If you look carefully at the locating "dimple" in each corner, you'll notice one is larger than the other three. These provide a not-too-obvious "poka-yoke" to locate the correct light in the correct bucket. Also you have to lose the top tab in the main bracket without which the headlights wobble up and down really easily (and blow bulbs very quickly!)


One guy suggested inverting the headlight buckets. Not sure if that would help in this case but it's worth a try.

[TTait]

Would it work to drill out a small section in front of each screw? Would it be obvious?

[skill]

Hey Chris,

I just noticed this thread and thanks. I was wondering if by any chance you recall the paint code used for your painting of the Fascia to best match Stainless Steel? Or anyone else's input on suggested paint codes would greatly appreciated.

I know, as a former autobody repair man, in an earlier life, PPG was a pretty good brand back in the days, and perhaps (?) there was a color code by DMC out there? Thanks in advance,

Brian

[Michael]

If I were to try and replicate the stainless finish on the fascias I would try this:

Doing stainless grain on all areas of the fascia would seem had to get the grain correct, so I would limit the graining to the outside only, the recesses where the headlights and taillights, tag, etc sit would remain smooth.

1:Paint 2 coats of filler primer on the fasicas(after prep of course). After it hardens, "grain" your areas with 240-320 grit paper...remember the grain will show through the paint, so it must be straight. Also don't get carried away, you don't want to hit the gel coat. Just a few passes to get the area scratched well.

Paint: This is both tricky and fun. You want to replicate the color, but not make it so it's too dark or too light depending on the ambient light. Paint and bare metal reflect light in very different ways so you will have to "split the difference" and come up with something that's close in most lighting conditions. I would highly suggest experimenting with colors to get the right formula but I can certainly point you in the right direction. If you choose PPG DBC, then go with the following as a starting point.

Your paint will be mostly 1687 and/or 1686...these are fairly fine aluminium tints, so they would replicate metal the best...no sparkles like coarse aluminiums would produce. You may want to knock the flop down a bit with some 685(flat agent) some dx 821 flop adjuster which will keep the paint from looking too dark in one light and too light in another light. Careful though, as too much or either the flat agent or flop adj. will change the nice silver to a pasty white. You will probably find just aluminium and flop is a little light so add a little black (1683).

Now when you add black to silver it does two things, it darkens the color but it also changes the color to a "warm" silver. You want a "cool" silver so you will need to add a little 614(HS Blue) to get that beige tint out of the paint. You will want to do a few spray out cards to test your color and make sure you like the look.

Once the base has been laid on the clear naturally follows. A bit of dulling agent would be ideal to get the right amount of gloss. (I think an eggshell finish, close to the factory fascia finish) would be perfect. Now all those sandpaper grains should be very visible and when the light hits them right, they will be even more visible...just like the stainless finish.

That should get you on the right track. Again, I would stress painting a few small pieces, maybe even your old fascias for a dry run to make sure you will be pleased with the final result.

[skill]

If I were to try and replicate the stainless finish on the fascias I would try this:

Doing stainless grain on all areas of the fascia would seem had to get the grain correct, so I would limit the graining to the outside only, the recesses where the headlights and taillights, tag, etc sit would remain smooth.

1:Paint 2 coats of filler primer on the fasicas(after prep of course). After it hardens, "grain" your areas with 240-320 grit paper...remember the grain will show through the paint, so it must be straight. Also don't get carried away, you don't want to hit the gel coat. Just a few passes to get the area scratched well.

Paint: This is both tricky and fun. You want to replicate the color, but not make it so it's too dark or too light depending on the ambient light. Paint and bare metal reflect light in very different ways so you will have to "split the difference" and come up with something that's close in most lighting conditions. I would highly suggest experimenting with colors to get the right formula but I can certainly point you in the right direction. If you choose PPG DBC, then go with the following as a starting point.

Your paint will be mostly 1687 and/or 1686...these are fairly fine aluminium tints, so they would replicate metal the best...no sparkles like coarse aluminiums would produce. You may want to knock the flop down a bit with some 685(flat agent) some dx 821 flop adjuster which will keep the paint from looking too dark in one light and too light in another light. Careful though, as too much or either the flat agent or flop adj. will change the nice silver to a pasty white. You will probably find just aluminium and flop is a little light so add a little black (1683).

Now when you add black to silver it does two things, it darkens the color but it also changes the color to a "warm" silver. You want a "cool" silver so you will need to add a little 614(HS Blue) to get that beige tint out of the paint. You will want to do a few spray out cards to test your color and make sure you like the look.

Once the base has been laid on the clear naturally follows. A bit of dulling agent would be ideal to get the right amount of gloss. (I think an eggshell finish, close to the factory fascia finish) would be perfect. Now all those sandpaper grains should be very visible and when the light hits them right, they will be even more visible...just like the stainless finish.

That should get you on the right track. Again, I would stress painting a few small pieces, maybe even your old fascias for a dry run to make sure you will be pleased with the final result.

Michael,

Thanks very much for your detailed response! I totally follow you and each point and detail is appreciated.

No doubt, preparation is key, as well testing a few cards. This problem reminds me of so much of the documentary when John D., is discussing the color of the final color pick for the bumper to his engineers. Of course, paint match to SS in outdoor light and not under factory yellow indoor lamps! :)

These instructs will go long ways ` Thanks again! *printing*

Brian

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I recently purchased the DMC fiberglass fascia. It is currently being painted at Bauerle Automotive.
I'll share my experience. Your experience and journey may differ.
The fascia fits much much better than the original one I had (see photos below). A word of caution: it is very tight around the outer upper corners in the headlight area; I removed some material with a dremel which helped a lot. I would agree that the headlights can't be removed with the fascia on due to it being thicker and more rigid than the original. However, I replaced all of the headlights and used all new stainless hardware for the fascia, spoiler and rock screen. I can take the whole fascia off in about 45 minutes while in no hurry. So it will be a 2-hour job to change the head lights in the future, but I'm ok with it.

Regarding installation, I was able to install the fascia without removing the hood (I already had spent a lot of time adjusting the hood a while back and it is perfect in my eyes). As long as you pop the hood and leave it layed down, you can "scoop" the top part of the fascia underneath. Then open the hood and press the top part down around and under the hinges while gently pushing the fascia back. Then you gently pull and "pop" the fascia over the front impact absorber /turn signal light areas (make sure the turn signal sockets don't get wedged behind).

I used a plastic paint edging (looks like a paint scraper) tool to gently wedge between the headlights and the fascia (top and bottom) while pushing the fascia back which allowed it to butt nicely up against the fenders. You also have to drill all of the holes in the fascia. I did this after I was able to get the fascia to fit the way I wanted to. There are impressions of every hole so it was easy to drill in the right spot. I also used the old fascia as a reference for the drill bit size. For my car, I did have to elongate the holes on the top plate forward more with a dremel than the original impressions to allow the screws to go in straight and not at an angle. I also drilled out the outer two rock screen holes slightly bigger so the bolts would line up with the mount holes (they can also be pushed or pulled to line up with the fascia holes). Make sure you take the time to completely bolt on the fascia, spoiler, and rock screen completely together as if you were going to install it permanently before taking it to be painted. This will reveal any trouble areas and make installing it painted much safer and easier.

You will need to purchase spring clips from DMC and have a rivet gun with 1/8" rivets to install them. I did not use "backing plates"/washers; the rivets went in fine and hold great into the thick fiberglass in that area. You can decide for yourself on this part.

Once you are happy and ready, take it to the paint shop. They will need to remove the mold lines/flashing from the sides and bottom. Pick out a paint color as well or have your old fascia for reference.

I have a video that I am making to share. Hopefully it will be post worthy (might be fuzzy in some parts), if so, I will post it here.
Below are photos of it being fitted on the car:

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10149874_10153935438180696_68895404_n.jpg?oh=dc63f 6524ffa409ddcb77028c80b1fbc&oe=533E4B36

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10154813_10153935430665696_620300018_n.jpg?oh=2165 07c1ffc968c200afa54afd8955af&oe=533E8325

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10011179_10153935438300696_1401470572_n.jpg?oh=811 0781a556c02ee215a9f895d93ddbb&oe=533E1AA7

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/v/t34.0-12/10150980_10153935429065696_16711831_n.jpg?oh=70aa1 cb7d8c40bbc81b5a6e2b50b6140&oe=533E5D7F

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10156921_10153935461140696_1038046942_n.jpg?oh=91b fc7678bd622302a7bb154be25125f&oe=533E1C04

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10149275_10153935434570696_1121349153_n.jpg?oh=752 22aad3f5e34161b35c6d0d259fc7c&oe=533E0037

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10153564_10153929562250696_2095304359_n.jpg?oh=821 b95ad76c70da47c8c5b8b67c8011f&oe=533E361A

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/1555781_10153929540050696_2098661220_n.jpg?oh=d282 9cb7a5460ae37cae2946cb814d6b&oe=533E9CBB

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10153458_10153925301180696_482812276_n.jpg?oh=24fc 70b3919d9179fe09cd534d0e2cd0&oe=533E82D7

Overall, I am very happy with it and am looking forward to sharing the finished photos and video of it. I hope the rear fascia becomes available in fiberglass as I would like the front and rear to match in fitment and construction.

-JQ

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Completed pics

One additional important thing I learned is that you can adjust the fenders in and out at the front by turning the screws that connect them to the front brackets near the fascia. Be sure to do this to get the desired alignment and fitment.

Overall, I am very happy with it. I also was given the "official" DMC gray color codes. Flattening agent was added, but a clear coat was applied. I am happy with the paint as well.

I have received a lot of skepticism for the fact that it is made of fiberglass and the perception that it is brittle (I admit my own concern in the previous above post). I say this is not the case as I now have a lot of experience taking it on and off and had no cracking what-so-ever in all of my nit-pick fitments. The nay-sayers can keep their originals, I love this one!

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10287102_10153995914615696_68264850_n.jpg?oh=3d17e 77902cdcc2481716a4d65dc8a4c&oe=5358050A

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10255431_10153995912195696_1202096179_n.jpg?oh=38d d620213cf3be95e10b376200938da&oe=5357CBD5

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/v/t34.0-12/10261897_10153995912620696_1966567771_n.jpg?oh=f60 c6528fbce14f7ff8e0c612cdc4c2d&oe=5357F448

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10259515_10153995913165696_1650859794_n.jpg?oh=c2e 17a02f9f9143657aad268c2ca52fc&oe=5357E81F

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/1017748_689123831147816_7016070543403298892_n.jpg

[jawn101]

Completed pics

One additional important thing I learned is that you can adjust the fenders in and out at the front by turning the screws that connect them to the front brackets near the fascia. Be sure to do this to get the desired alignment and fitment.

Overall, I am very happy with it. I also was given the "official" DMC gray color codes. Flattening agent was added, but a clear coat was applied. I am happy with the paint as well.

I have received a lot of skepticism for the fact that it is made of fiberglass and the perception that it is brittle (I admit my own concern in the previous above post). I say this is not the case as I now have a lot of experience taking it on and off and had no cracking what-so-ever in all of my nit-pick fitments. The nay-sayers can keep their originals, I love this one!

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10287102_10153995914615696_68264850_n.jpg?oh=3d17e 77902cdcc2481716a4d65dc8a4c&oe=5358050A

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10255431_10153995912195696_1202096179_n.jpg?oh=38d d620213cf3be95e10b376200938da&oe=5357CBD5

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/v/t34.0-12/10261897_10153995912620696_1966567771_n.jpg?oh=f60 c6528fbce14f7ff8e0c612cdc4c2d&oe=5357F448

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10259515_10153995913165696_1650859794_n.jpg?oh=c2e 17a02f9f9143657aad268c2ca52fc&oe=5357E81F

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/1017748_689123831147816_7016070543403298892_n.jpg

Josh, that looks awesome. Come do one for me next :)

Just kidding... my original is still fine, if in need of a respray. But it's great to know this option is turning out to be viable!

[skill]

Completed pics

One additional important thing I learned is that you can adjust the fenders in and out at the front by turning the screws that connect them to the front brackets near the fascia. Be sure to do this to get the desired alignment and fitment.

Overall, I am very happy with it. I also was given the "official" DMC gray color codes. Flattening agent was added, but a clear coat was applied. I am happy with the paint as well.

I have received a lot of skepticism for the fact that it is made of fiberglass and the perception that it is brittle (I admit my own concern in the previous above post). I say this is not the case as I now have a lot of experience taking it on and off and had no cracking what-so-ever in all of my nit-pick fitments. The nay-sayers can keep their originals, I love this one!

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10287102_10153995914615696_68264850_n.jpg?oh=3d17e 77902cdcc2481716a4d65dc8a4c&oe=5358050A

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10255431_10153995912195696_1202096179_n.jpg?oh=38d d620213cf3be95e10b376200938da&oe=5357CBD5

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/v/t34.0-12/10261897_10153995912620696_1966567771_n.jpg?oh=f60 c6528fbce14f7ff8e0c612cdc4c2d&oe=5357F448

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10259515_10153995913165696_1650859794_n.jpg?oh=c2e 17a02f9f9143657aad268c2ca52fc&oe=5357E81F

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/1017748_689123831147816_7016070543403298892_n.jpg

NICE!!! I like the clear coat too! Very nicely done.

Curious, you mention that they gave you the paint codes? Did DMC ever have a paint code sheet/s? You know, kinda like the ones created by other auto-makers where they have squares on a sheet of each color cars produced for that year production?

[DeloreanJoshQ]

NICE!!! I like the clear coat too! Very nicely done.

Curious, you mention that they gave you the paint codes? Did DMC ever have a paint code sheet/s? You know, kinda like the ones created by other auto-makers where they have squares on a sheet of each color cars produced for that year production?

No. I was given the formula for each color used to create the closest to original Delorean gray paint.

[Michael]

NICE!!! I like the clear coat too! Very nicely done.

Curious, you mention that they gave you the paint codes? Did DMC ever have a paint code sheet/s? You know, kinda like the ones created by other auto-makers where they have squares on a sheet of each color cars produced for that year production?

I looked them up a few year ago and posted them. It should show up on a search. I am curious as to why they gave you the flattening agent and then you cleared? There are two flat tints, one for base and one for clear. The one for clear will dull it to whatever sheen you desire. The one for base is used as a "reflecting adjuster" since all base is cleared over.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

For anyone interested, the removal/installation video I created is now available to view on youtube at the below link.
Hopefully it will help people make up their minds and help them out if they ever do this job...

Enjoy...

http://youtu.be/FD6U-GTQz-w

[skill]

For anyone interested, the removal/installation video I created is now available to view on youtube at the below link.
Hopefully it will help people make up their minds and help them out if they ever do this job...

Enjoy...

http://youtu.be/FD6U-GTQz-w

Excellent video Josh! I watched the entire vid. Thanks for taking the time to do this! I've been debating to switch the facia or not. The paint job came out amazing and the alignment and seams are perrrfect!!!

[Domi]

Thank you for sharing your video :thumbup:

[D Knight]

How hard is it to make adjustments to your headlights?


-D Knight-

[DeloreanJoshQ]

How hard is it to make adjustments to your headlights?


-D Knight-

Adjust the headlights before you install the new fascia. Typically you don't need to do adjustments unless you disturb the angle.

[Farrar]

Adjust the headlights before you install the new fascia. Typically you don't need to do adjustments unless you disturb the angle.

So if you're going to lower or raise the car, do so before you fit the new fascia. ;-)

...How difficult is it to CHANGE the headlights with the new fascia on? Surely Houston can't expect us to have permanent headlights.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

So if you're going to lower or raise the car, do so before you fit the new fascia. ;-)

...How difficult is it to CHANGE the headlights with the new fascia on? Surely Houston can't expect us to have permanent headlights.

If you remove the top screws from under the hood you can pull the fascia forward enough to give you room to get behind the "Ridge" and remove the retainers and wiggle out the headlights

[Farrar]

If you remove the top screws from under the hood you can pull the fascia forward enough to give you room to get behind the "Ridge" and remove the retainers and wiggle out the headlights

Thanks! That's good to know!

[Mark D]

Damn.

Everytime I look at this thread I can't believe how awesome the fiberglass fascias look. I don't think I've ever seen a stock facia that flat with no ripples.


....someday....

[Chris 16409]

So it's hard to believe that it has been 8 years since I had this Fascia installed. I've still been very happy with it. So from the beginning I've been dreading having to replace the headlights. Eight years ago I installed a pair of Silverstar low beam headlights. I've heard many anecdotes that they don't last as long as traditional sealed beams. Well, the driver-side headlight finally burned out. I'd say 8 years is a pretty good service life. Anyhow I wasn't looking forward to removing the fascia to replace the headlights. I began accessing the situation and decided to remove the high beams since those screws were much easier to get to. As it turns out, the body shop had the hindsight to not install the top screws on the headlight bezel. This saved the day as I was able to move the bezel out of the way while still being attached to the outside mounting tab. With the high beam out of the way, the low beam lamp came out. I even bent down the top mount tabs on the bezel so they clear the fascia. The headlights are perfectly secure only using 2 out of the 4 screws. So this should be the preferred method if you have the fiberglass fascia. I truly lucked out.

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[dmcman73]

So it's hard to believe that it has been 8 years since I had this Fascia installed. I've still been very happy with it. So from the beginning I've been dreading having to replace the headlights. Eight years ago I installed a pair of Silverstar low beam headlights. I've heard many anecdotes that they don't last as long as traditional sealed beams. Well, the driver-side headlight finally burned out. I'd say 8 years is a pretty good service life. Anyhow I wasn't looking forward to removing the fascia to replace the headlights. I began accessing the situation and decided to remove the high beams since those screws were much easier to get to. As it turns out, the body shop had the hindsight to not install the top screws on the headlight bezel. This saved the day as I was able to move the bezel out of the way while still being attached to the outside mounting tab. With the high beam out of the way, the low beam lamp came out. I even bent down the top mount tabs on the bezel so they clear the fascia. The headlights are perfectly secure only using 2 out of the 4 screws. So this should be the preferred method if you have the fiberglass fascia. I truly lucked out.

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63676

Just saw this post and just thought, DMCH had a perfect opportunity to create a new fascia with new headlight retainers where the top of the retainers would snap into the fascia (like how most modern cars have their parts attached) and leave the screw holes at the bottom.