Evaporator Replacement

[XZypher]

What is all is needed in a worst case scenario to take out the evaporator and replace it? I have looked for other threads on it but no luck thanks.

[DMCMW Dave]

In terms of what? My fast answer was going to be "time and patience".

You will also need the capability of evacuating and recharging the A/C system. And a good vocabulary of bad words.

[David T]

It helps if you remove the seats. You will be taking the whole dash apart so if you have any other work on the interior now would be a good time to do it all at once. And since you have to discharge the A/C, now would be a good time to replace the hoses, dryer, seals, etc. Test the heater core and if there is ANY doubt about it's condition you should replace it "while you are in there". Take plenty of pictures and notes to help reassemble.
David Teitelbaum

[Evildeli]

Take plenty of notes and pictures cause there's a lot that comes out, but I didn't take the seats out. If they get in the way, I'd say take 'em out, but since most of the work is on the passenger side, I find it nice to have a cushion on my back when working. I also took out the air vents and sound system to clear out extra cables, but left most of the center console in so I didn't have to worry about all climate control hoses.

[Bitsyncmaster]

And a good vocabulary of bad words.

I used those bad words all the time removing mine.

Yes the passenger seat has to come out. Pull the carpet out also because oil will drain from the evaporator. Just take your time and plan it as a week long adventure. You will need a lot of new foam to make new seals for all the movable "doors".

You can really get it out in a day and back in a day but shopping around for the foam to do the seals and cleaning it all was the most time consuming.

[1batt4u]

What kind of foam to make seals?? I will be working on mine soon, so need to know what exactly I will be going through!

Thank you!

[Bitsyncmaster]

What kind of foam to make seals?? I will be working on mine soon, so need to know what exactly I will be going through!

Thank you!

I used the vinyl foam sold at the hardware store for making window seals. Most of it is gray in color and has one side sticky. I also used that foam to seal my door AC vents but had to use a few layers of it.

[A Van]

My airbox had been taken out before and put back together badly, the seals that fit the different sections together weren't available, and someone who said they had them......didn't in the end I ended up using silicon sealant and two years down the line no problems, like everyone says.....you need bad, bad words !

[dmcerm]

So what you all are saying is, there is no way to get the evaporate cover off without taking the whole dash apart?... Great, I kinda figured that now that I have all the screws out...

[Nicholas R]

After doing this job twice, I've found:

-Remove all carpet/ mats, fan motor, resistor, console, glove box, knee pad, vent hose, etc.
-Remove bolts holding evaporator box in. (AND MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHERE THEY ALL ARE) Dont forget the ones hiding way in the back. Also dont forget the four that bolt laterally to hte heater box.
-Once the lower box is free from the upper box. Lower it down with the evaporator inside but DO NOT try to remove it yet.
-Now remove the UPPER evaporator box. Do not forget that there are 4 bolts inside the flap thing up under the far right corner of the windshield. Once those bolts and the 2 bolting it to the heater box are out, with a little wiggling, the upper box should come out.
- Now that the upper box is out, with some clever twisting and angling, the lower box should come out WITH the evaporator inside of it.

Also though it goes without saying, make sure the evaporator hoses are both disconnected from the accumulator and cross over hose before this process. To re-install, do this in reverse. Put the evaporator in the lower box, put it in position but leaning down ward with the hoses through the firewall, bolt the upper in place, then use creative angles to get the lower box to properly mate with the upper. Space is very limited so it is definitely necessary to pull up the carpet and mats; every tiny bit of space helps.

[DavidProehl]

After doing this job twice, I've found:

-Remove all carpet/ mats, fan motor, resistor, console, glove box, knee pad, vent hose, etc.
-Remove bolts holding evaporator box in. (AND MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHERE THEY ALL ARE) Dont forget the ones hiding way in the back. Also dont forget the four that bolt laterally to hte heater box.
-Once the lower box is free from the upper box. Lower it down with the evaporator inside but DO NOT try to remove it yet.
-Now remove the UPPER evaporator box. Do not forget that there are 4 bolts inside the flap thing up under the far right corner of the windshield. Once those bolts and the 2 bolting it to the heater box are out, with a little wiggling, the upper box should come out.
- Now that the upper box is out, with some clever twisting and angling, the lower box should come out WITH the evaporator inside of it.

Also though it goes without saying, make sure the evaporator hoses are both disconnected from the accumulator and cross over hose before this process. To re-install, do this in reverse. Put the evaporator in the lower box, put it in position but leaning down ward with the hoses through the firewall, bolt the upper in place, then use creative angles to get the lower box to properly mate with the upper. Space is very limited so it is definitely necessary to pull up the carpet and mats; every tiny bit of space helps.

I'm also looking at replacing my evaporator soon (hopefully in October). Nicholas - Does the above process you describe involve removing the dash first or can this be done without dash removal? If I need to remove the dash, does the binnacle also have to come out? I'm assuming so, but that wasn't clear to me. I was looking at this how to (http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/dashboard.html) for the dash removal.

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm also looking at replacing my evaporator soon (hopefully in October). Nicholas - Does the above process you describe involve removing the dash first or can this be done without dash removal? If I need to remove the dash, does the binnacle also have to come out? I'm assuming so, but that wasn't clear to me. I was looking at this how to (http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/dashboard.html) for the dash removal.

No need to remove the dash top or binnacle. Just the kneepads and console. HAving the seat out of the way helps too but it's not 100% required.

[DavidProehl]

No need to remove the dash top or binnacle. Just the kneepads and console. HAving the seat out of the way helps too but it's not 100% required.

Thanks! Not that that makes it an easy job, but at least I'm not dealing with the dash as I originally thought.

[DMCMW Dave]

What I don't follow in Nick's description is splitting the case apart in the car. It's been a while since I've done one but my recollection is that the case comes out of the car all in one piece, and you take it apart and put it back together on the bench.

[Nicholas R]

What I don't follow in Nick's description is splitting the case apart in the car. It's been a while since I've done one but my recollection is that the case comes out of the car all in one piece, and you take it apart and put it back together on the bench.

Really? Hmmmm.... well I always did that because thats how Ken Koncelik had recommended the job. I always figured with all the angling and such that has to be done in order to get the evaporator through the firewall that it couldn't be done with the box in one piece as there wouldn't be enough room. If it is possible to do it without splitting the box, I suppose it would make it a hell of a lot easier since you'd only have to remove the 4 bolts holding the evaporator box to the heater box and the 4 bolts holding the upper half to the body. If this is possible, definitely elaborate; I'd LOVE to know if there's a better way in case, heaven forbid, I have to do this a third time.

[DMCMW Dave]

Really? Hmmmm.... well I always did that because thats how Ken Koncelik had recommended the job.

That explains a lot. I recall discussing this with Ken years ago - he portraid it as a "shortcut" so he didn't have to take so much of the dash apart, specifically avoiding removing the center panel (aka radio bracket). My feeling was that doing it this way there were some screws that you would absolutely have to leave out when you were done.

My advise is to take the center stack loose (or out) for access and then the HVAC case will come out whole. It is much easier to work on like this and you'll do a better job of getting it sealed back up. I'm pretty sure the factory did not assemble the HVAC case inside the car!

[Bitsyncmaster]

That explains a lot. I recall discussing this with Ken years ago - he portraid it as a "shortcut" so he didn't have to take so much of the dash apart, specifically avoiding removing the center panel (aka radio bracket). My feeling was that doing it this way there were some screws that you would absolutely have to leave out when you were done.

My advise is to take the center stack loose (or out) for access and then the HVAC case will come out whole. It is much easier to work on like this and you'll do a better job of getting it sealed back up. I'm pretty sure the factory did not assemble the HVAC case inside the car!

Thats what I did removing mine. I also took out the glove box and passenger carpet.

[Farrar]

A Skewdriver (http://www.amazon.com/Skewdriver-Weekend-Pro-Offset-Screwdriver/dp/B0002BBYGQ) will come in very handy for this job. If you don't already have one, you may consider the investment.

Farrar

[Nicholas R]

That explains a lot. I recall discussing this with Ken years ago - he portraid it as a "shortcut" so he didn't have to take so much of the dash apart, specifically avoiding removing the center panel (aka radio bracket). My feeling was that doing it this way there were some screws that you would absolutely have to leave out when you were done.

My advise is to take the center stack loose (or out) for access and then the HVAC case will come out whole. It is much easier to work on like this and you'll do a better job of getting it sealed back up. I'm pretty sure the factory did not assemble the HVAC case inside the car!

Haha, I suppose so. I have always removed the center console but not had to remove the center stack. Using a couple long 1/4" extensions and the screws lightly taped to the socket, I've always been able to get all the bolts back in.

Also, I've always assumed that as far as interior; all the dash stuff was probably the very first things put into the car and the just built the car around it, haha

[DavidProehl]

I'm now working to remove my evaporator. I have the console, kneepad, glovebox, and fan removed. I'm looking in the workshop manual (N:08:01) and step 6 says I also need to remove the "re-circulation vent flap." I can't find a part named that, and I'd rather not be guessing and remove the wrong thing. Is this what I need to remove?

http://i.imgur.com/0x612.jpg

Page I'm referencing from workshop manual:
http://i.imgur.com/unWrV.jpg

Also, what is the "de-mist duct" mentioned in step 10?

[AdmiralSenn]

Yes, that's the flap in question.

I believe the duct is on top, goes to the windshield. Easy to remove if I remember right. Getting it back in can be a little tricky depending on the order in which you assemble things.

[sdg3205]

I'm doing my heater core next week. Sounds like I can piggy-back this thread as opposed to starting a new one.

[DavidProehl]

Yes, that's the flap in question.

I believe the duct is on top, goes to the windshield. Easy to remove if I remember right. Getting it back in can be a little tricky depending on the order in which you assemble things.

Thanks! I think I'm almost ready to pull the evaporator box, but I'm having trouble disconnecting the evaporator from the accumulator first. It is rather tight in the wheel well and I'm having trouble getting a wrench around it properly. Of all the parts of this job, I didn't expect disconnecting the accumulator to slow me down! Should I be using some stubby wrenches or is there another way? I tried going in through the spare tire access panel, but that isn't much better.

[David T]

The "demist" vent would be the ducts for the defroster going to the dash. Basically you take everything apart, remove evap, disassemble evap, reassemble evap, reinstall everything. Just a couple of easy steps! If you think it has to come out, take it out. Take a lot of notes and pictures. If you are taking something apart and it doesn't come out easily, don't force it, you probably forgot something. Real men don't read manuals! (Just kidding) The Workshop manual was written assuming the person reading it had some basic skills and was never intended as a step-by-step primer. Taking the evap box out is one of the worst jobs on most cars, including Deloreans. Just imagine having to do it with an airbag system in the way too!
David Teitelbaum

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks! I think I'm almost ready to pull the evaporator box, but I'm having trouble disconnecting the evaporator from the accumulator first. It is rather tight in the wheel well and I'm having trouble getting a wrench around it properly. Of all the parts of this job, I didn't expect disconnecting the accumulator to slow me down! Should I be using some stubby wrenches or is there another way? I tried going in through the spare tire access panel, but that isn't much better.

I had to use one wrench from the wheel well and one from the trunk. You may want to get a few sets of cheap wrenchs and bend or grind them up for this work. Don't "cut corners" and break something in the system.

[AdmiralSenn]

I also had trouble with the evap-accumulator connections.

I got mine off from the trunk panel side, very very slowly. When I couldn't get a wrench on it I'd get off the car and go at it from the wheel side again - taking the wheel off helps some but it's still kind of awkward. It took a long time to get those connections loose but wasn't that hard, just tedious.

[jawn101]

I also had trouble with the evap-accumulator connections.

I got mine off from the trunk panel side, very very slowly. When I couldn't get a wrench on it I'd get off the car and go at it from the wheel side again - taking the wheel off helps some but it's still kind of awkward. It took a long time to get those connections loose but wasn't that hard, just tedious.

Me too, when we replaced my A/C this was the joint that didn't get tightened and leaked all the refrigerant back out. I ended up removing the trunk side panel and laying on my back in the spare wheel well, which gave me juuuuust enough leverage above my head to get the connections tight, using a stubby adjustable wrench. The same trick should work to get it loosened... Clint also had good (but not perfect or I wouldn't have learned this trick, lol) luck accessing this area with a crow's foot wrench from the outside of the car.

[sdg3205]

If I'm only swapping out the heater core, do I still have to evacuate the A/C or is there a work around of any sort? I imagine if its a matter of getting the box out I'll just have to suck it up and do it.

My A/C doesn't work. The clutch have never engaged or anything of the sort, so I imagine the system is low or out to begin with.

[Bitsyncmaster]

If I'm only swapping out the heater core, do I still have to evacuate the A/C or is there a work around of any sort? I imagine if its a matter of getting the box out I'll just have to suck it up and do it.

My A/C doesn't work. The clutch have never engaged or anything of the sort, so I imagine the system is low or out to begin with.

Yes you have to remove the evaporator to get the box out. You probably don't have any freon left in the system if the clutch will not engage.

[jawn101]

Yes you have to remove the evaporator to get the box out. You probably don't have any freon left in the system if the clutch will not engage.

You can try jumpering the low pressure switch in the passenger wheel well (attached to the accumulator) - see if the A/C clutch engages. If so there's a low pressure condition.

[sdg3205]

I'm just going to get it evacuated somehow. I'm sure the whole system is a mess.

Even with the dash all out I could probably drive it somewhere to get evacuated.

Damn... should have thought of this before I ripped it all out.

[jawn101]

I'm just going to get it evacuated somehow. I'm sure the whole system is a mess.

Even with the dash all out I could probably drive it somewhere to get evacuated.

Damn... should have thought of this before I ripped it all out.

If you wanna drive down to CA I'd be happy to help :) I'm a pro at that job at this point.

Are you already converted to R134 or is it still an R12 system? Much more to consider if the conversion hasn't been done yet, unless you have a ready source of R12.

[sdg3205]

Turns out the A/C was bone dry!

As for the conversion, it's something I'm considering.

[pt11334]

I converted mine to 134 and I love it. Finally I have cold ac.

[Farrar]

+1 on R-134a conversion -- those who say it doesn't blow as cold as R-12 must have not replaced the orifice tube or installed an R-134a-friendly compressor, or otherwise are having some small problem. Even with a leak my a/c blew plenty cold with R-134a in it.

Farrar

[sdg3205]

Some questions now that my box is out:

1. Do all of the heater/evap boxes have that tacky-gum like black stuff on them? What is it? I imagine I'll need some new goo to put it back together.

2. On the heater side of the box, it looks like an insert has to slide out in order to remove and service the heater core. Is this true?

3. Does anyone have any good pictures of their re-foaming of the doors?

[sdg3205]

Some questions now that my box is out:

1. Do all of the heater/evap boxes have that tacky-gum like black stuff on them? What is it? I imagine I'll need some new goo to put it back together.

2. On the heater side of the box, it looks like an insert has to slide out in order to remove and service the heater core. Is this true?

3. Does anyone have any good pictures of their re-foaming of the doors?

Here is a picture of the screw flange impeding the heater core removal.

Also, does everyone have this fine mesh chicken wire in front of the evaporator?

[A Van]

Here is a picture of the screw flange impeding the heater core removal.

Also, does everyone have this fine mesh chicken wire in front of the evaporator?

I know that I did

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

[DMCMW Dave]

Also, does everyone have this fine mesh chicken wire in front of the evaporator?

Yes - and it's important if you don't want water droplets coming out of your vents. It's to condense any stray water vapor from the air so it goes out the drain.

[sdg3205]

My heater box is all back together and working great.

To anyone doing this down the road - the heater core introduces a ton of air, burping was tough. I ended up raising just the nose as high as possible and burping at the rad. Eventually I got a huge belch out of the system and the coolant began flowing again.

[stevedmc]

You will be taking the whole dash apart so if you have any other work on the interior now would be a good time to do it all at once.

No you won't. The dash stays in the car. It would be pointless to remove it since a solid piece of fiberglass lays below it.